Parquet laying technology. Parquet flooring: methods, procedure and specifics of work

Among the variety of modern floor coverings, parquet boards occupy a special place. The floors created with its help give the room nobility and reflect the good taste of the owners. Parquet has always been an expensive material, the installation of which required high skills and craftsmanship, but with the development of wood processing technologies, installation of parquet boards has become much easier. Today, all installation work can be done independently, and to successfully complete it, you will only need skills in handling tools and knowledge of the technology for laying parquet boards.

Laying parquet boards can be done independently; the technology is not so complicated

Choosing a parquet board

Parquet boards are produced in several variations

Today, the buyer can choose from two types of parquet boards: solid and multilayer. The main difference between them is the production method. Thus, for the production of massive parquet boards they are used whole pieces wood of both coniferous and deciduous species. The groove and ridge at the ends of the board act as fastening elements. The price of such a board is quite high, since its production requires big piece valuable wood.

Multilayer parquet board consists of two or three layers of wooden planks glued together. To give strength, each layer is laid at right angles to the previous one, and different types of wood are used to create unique performance characteristics. Upper layer lamellas are made of hardwood. For the second layer, soft wood species are used. For the third layer, plywood or previously rejected spruce or pine slats up to 4 mm thick are used. The price of multilayer parquet boards is somewhat lower, since its production requires smaller pieces of wood.

Types of parquet boards depending on the number of planks

Also, parquet boards differ in the number of rows of planks: single lane, two-lane, three- And four-lane. The three-strip board is the most popular, as it is most closely stylized as parquet and is affordable. Four-strip parquet board is the cheapest - the narrowest lamellas are used in its production, but this type of board allows you to implement various design ideas due to the contrasting combination of lamellas. Single-strip and double-strip parquet boards are the most expensive. Their production requires the widest lamellas of valuable wood. Thanks to this, the room looks the most rich and solemn.

The thickness of the parquet board ranges from 7 mm to 22 mm. This parameter determines how the board will be laid. Thus, parquet boards up to 20 mm thick should be laid only on a solid surface, and a 22 mm thick board can be laid directly on the joists. In addition, the thickness of the board affects the heat, sound and noise insulation of the room.

Laying parquet boards: video instructions

Technology of laying parquet boards

Despite the fact that laying parquet boards with your own hands is quite simple, you can ruin the floor covering if you do not follow a certain installation technology. In order for the parquet board to serve for a long time, you must adhere to the following rules:

high-quality prepared base. Preparation consists of creating a strong, flat surface without deep drops and cracks. A small difference of 2 mm per 1 linear meter is allowed;
a certain level of humidity. Despite the development of modern technologies in the field of protecting wood from moisture, laying parquet boards in the kitchen, bathroom, toilet or other rooms with high levels of humidity is not recommended;
Before laying, the parquet board must “get used” to the microclimate of the room. To ensure that after all work is completed, the surface retains its integrity and does not warp, the parquet board should be left indoors for 48 hours after purchase and delivery;
During installation, it is necessary to adhere to a certain temperature and humidity level. The temperature should not be lower than +18 °C, and the humidity 35 – 65%;
presence of hydro- and thermal insulation. Since the parquet board is exposed to temperature and moisture, it must be additionally insulated. To do this, a substrate is laid, consisting of a layer of waterproofing and thermal insulation;
a certain laying direction. To make the joints of parquet board panels less noticeable, it should be laid in the direction of the light rays;
If the rooms where the parquet boards will be laid have a “warm floor” system, it is necessary to create a separate parquet board floor covering for each room. This is due to the fact that the temperature in each room is different and can fluctuate significantly.

Preparing the base

Before laying the parquet board, it is necessary to carry out a series of preparatory work. This applies primarily to the base on which the installation will be carried out. The installation of the parquet board itself can be done on concrete or wooden base, the main thing is that it is strong and even. Therefore, if the floors in the house are created from scratch, they must be made taking into account the future installation of parquet boards. If old floors serve as the base, they will have to be completely inspected and, if necessary, repaired.

Preparing the wooden base

If you plan to install it on a previously used wooden base, then you will have to do the following work. First of all, remove the old floor covering and make sure that the wooden floor does not fall anywhere, does not creak, there are no large differences between the boards, and all structural elements are firmly fixed. If everything is in order, then you can start laying the parquet boards. Otherwise you will have to work hard. In the case where the wooden floor is durable, but the floorboards have dried out over time, and between them there are big differences in height, the floor can simply be scraped or leveled with PVA-based putty. If, upon inspection of the floor, it was revealed that the floorboards are loose and poorly secured, then they will have to be secured with self-tapping screws to the joists, and the surface will have to be scraped or puttied. Repairing damaged joists will be the most time-consuming and difficult. To do this, you will have to completely disassemble the structure of the wooden floor. If the logs have sagged in places, they should be raised by placing a block or wood chip under them. But if one or more joists are rotten, you will have to completely replace them. Must be given Special attention log level, they should all be strictly horizontal and in the same plane. As soon as the joists are repaired, you need to reassemble the entire wooden floor structure and begin laying the parquet boards.

Preparing the concrete base

Preparation work concrete base an order of magnitude smaller, and they are simpler. First of all, we remove the old floor covering and check the floor for cracks, unevenness and breaks. If the floor is in good condition and has small cracks or uneven areas, then it can be primed and a self-leveling screed poured on top. After it has completely dried, you can begin laying the parquet board. In the case when the concrete base has crumbled and in some places turned to dust, you will have to completely remove the old screed using a hammer drill and lay it again, and only after it has completely dried, begin laying the parquet board.

How to lay a parquet board

Installation of parquet boards can be done in several ways. There are only three of them: floating, adhesive and using fasteners. It’s worth noting right away that the first two installation options require the creation of a continuous base on which the parquet board will be laid. These installation methods are suitable for panels of any thickness and for any type of base. Installation of parquet boards using fasteners is carried out directly on logs or a wooden base. Moreover, only parquet boards with a thickness of 20–22 mm can be laid on the logs. To know how to properly lay parquet boards, you need to familiarize yourself with each of these methods in more detail.

Floating installation method

The floating method of laying parquet boards is considered the simplest

This installation method is the simplest, fastest and requires minimal labor. It consists of laying parquet boards on a substrate and connecting the panels together into a lock. To install parquet boards this way, you must do the following:

We lay a layer of waterproofing on the previously prepared base. A polyethylene film with a thickness of 200 microns is suitable for this. To obtain a solid surface, we overlap the film sheets with an overlap of 15–20 cm and glue them together using tape. We also make an overlap on the walls of 10 - 15 cm;

You can use cork or polyethylene foam as a backing.

Place the second layer of the film on the backing. This can be cork, polystyrene foam or polyethylene foam. We lay the cork and polystyrene foam end-to-end, and the polyethylene foam overlapping. We glue all joints with tape;

Important! Expanded polystyrene mats should be laid staggered. This will create a stronger and more stable surface.

Immediately before installation, we carry out small calculations of the number of rows of parquet boards. This must be done so that if the last row has to be trimmed, its width is 5 cm or more. If it is less, then we cut the first and last rows and make them the same width;

We connect the panels of the first row to each other and lay them with a tenon against the wall. In order for the parquet board to fit tightly to the wall, the tenon must be cut off in advance;
In order to avoid swelling and damage to the parquet board due to changes in seasonal humidity levels, a gap of 10 - 15 mm must be left between the wall and the board. And to preserve it, we drive in special pegs;
To create a durable floor covering from a parquet board, it must be laid “staggered”. Therefore, we begin laying the second row with a panel whose length is 2/3 of the normal one;
the panels of the second row are first connected to each other, and then the entire row is moved towards the first, after which it is connected to it;

We finish the parquet board with a hammer through a wooden block

Important! All work on finishing the panels and creating a complete surface is carried out by hammering the panels into place with a hammer through a wooden block.

We begin laying the third row with a panel whose length is 1/3 of the normal one;
We start the fourth row with a whole panel of parquet boards. Laying all remaining rows is carried out in the same way as the first four rows;

Important! The last panel in each row should be finished using a hammer and clamp.

The plinth should hide the gap between the wall and the first row of parquet boards

as soon as the last parquet board is laid, remove the bursting pegs and install the plinth;
We attach the baseboard to clamps that are attached to the wall. We place the first clamps with an indentation of 15 - 20 cm from the corner, the rest are installed in increments of 40 - 50 cm.

In the process of laying parquet boards, you will have to face some installation difficulties near the heating riser or water supply pipes, as well as the doorway. To make the flooring in these places look perfect, you need to carefully trim the parquet boards. For the doorway, it will be enough to outline and make an accurate rectangular cutout. For laying parquet boards near pipes, things are a little more complicated. It is necessary to mark the position of the pipes on the board, and then drill holes 1 - 2 mm larger than the diameter of the pipes. Now we cut off part of the panel strictly in the center of the holes. We put the panels in place, place the cut piece behind the pipes and also put it in place. For additional fixation, apply glue to the joints of the cut part. To give an aesthetic appearance around the pipes, we install special plugs in the same color as the parquet.

Glue installation method

The adhesive method of laying parquet boards creates a more monolithic structure, but dismantling such a floor is extremely difficult

In this installation method, the same sequence of actions is used as in the floating one. But there are a number of significant differences:

When laying on glue, waterproof plywood acts as a substrate. We lay it in rows “staggered”, and additionally attach the plywood itself to the base using pneumatic nails or self-tapping screws;
Apply the glue to the surface of the base and the parquet board using a notched trowel. We also fill the grooves at the end of the panels with glue. Remove excess glue with a damp cloth.

The disadvantages of this fastening method include increased labor costs and some difficulty in performing the work. Also, if there is a need to replace one or more parquet panels, you will have to face certain difficulties.

Installation using fasteners

The method using fasteners is used for laying on joists

All work is also carried out by analogy with the “floating” installation method. The significant differences are as follows:

this method is most often used for solid parquet boards and multi-layer boards 20 mm thick;
laying with fasteners is used when solid parquet boards are laid directly on joists or a solid wooden base;
insulation and waterproofing are carried out at the stage of installing the logs;
To secure the parquet board, you need to hammer a nail into the groove at an angle of 45 degrees or screw in a self-tapping screw.

Important! When laying on joists, it is necessary to ensure that the panel joints run exactly in the middle of the joists. Self-tapping screws or nails should be 2 - 2.5 times longer than the thickness of the board.

Regardless of how the parquet board is laid, all work must be carried out carefully, adhering to the technology and manufacturer’s recommendations. Only in this case can you get a truly reliable and beautiful parquet flooring.

Parquet boards have been popular at all times. And today's fashion does not ignore it. Moreover, if you install parquet boards yourself, you can significantly save on repairs. Let's try to understand this issue in more detail.

Rules and subtleties

The first copies of this building material were presented to the world in the early 40s of the last century. Small company from Sweden has set itself the task of producing an equivalent analogue to expensive parquet. The second task was the desire to significantly speed up the process of laying the floor, since with a small parquet it was necessary to work hard.

The presented board consisted of two layers and was not widely used. The prototype of a modern coating appeared on the construction markets eight years later. And its main difference from its predecessor was the appearance of another layer.

Today, the dimensions of parquet boards differ depending on the manufacturer. Its length in its minimum dimensions is two meters, in its maximum – 2.6 m. The width starts from 13.9 cm and ends at 21 cm. The thickness is on average 14 mm.

A three-layer board consists of a stabilizing layer, a base and a top layer. The bottom layer protects the product from the concrete base. It is made from spruce veneer. Additionally, it prevents the board from deforming.

The central layer is made from pine. Special strips are laid out across the entire width of the product. And the top layer is directly responsible for the drawing. Depending on the price, these can be species of expensive or less valuable wood. These include oak, maple and alder. IN African countries Cocobolo and mahogany are used. Fix the slats to the board with glue.

The fibers of the main layer are not parallel, but perpendicular to each other. Thanks to this, good fixation is achieved and the building material does not deform.

The base can be tinted or bleached to give certain shades. Heat treatment and brushing are also performed.

The top layer may consist of polyurethane, oil or wax. Some manufacturers additionally coat with alkyd varnish. Since the front layer is sanded and varnished, this building material becomes wear-resistant, moisture-resistant and lasts a long time. The main thing is to install it correctly.

It is very important to pay attention to what exactly the parquet board will be laid on. The floor must be level, solid, without chips or depressions. Only a minimal difference is allowed, otherwise the board will not hold up.

There is no need to tempt fate and lay parquet boards in rooms with high humidity– bathrooms, kitchens, swimming pools. Otherwise, the laid floor will quickly become unusable.

After transporting the building material, it is necessary to allow it to get used to the temperature and humidity of the room. Typically, specialists wait about two days, after which they begin installation. In this case, the room temperature should be higher than or equal to 17 degrees, and the humidity should be moderate.

Like laminate, parquet boards are laid along the sun's rays, thus hiding seams and minor defects. Don't forget about the backing. It acts as a noise-canceling material.

Tools and accessories

You should start laying parquet boards only after measuring the humidity in the room. Its indicators should not exceed sixty percent. A device called a hygrometer helps take measurements.

A set of tools designed for installing parquet boards:

Jigsaw. For household use regular will do jigsaw made in South Korea, Japan, European Union countries or the United States of America. You can also find some good examples at a hardware store. domestic producers. The main thing is that the power of the device is at least 550 watts.
Hammer or mallet. It is not necessary that this hand tool be from a famous manufacturer; for household needs, any one that is at hand will do.
Tape measure and square. Useful for measuring work.
Pencil. You can use a construction one, or a regular one.
Mounting block. Using this device, you can reduce the load on the locking joints and on the parquet board itself. In this case, cracks and chips are excluded.

Wedges. They are used as stops between the wall, door and parquet board. Remember that it is unacceptable to lay building materials without limiters, otherwise the board may fail due to changes in temperature and humidity.
Cutters and staples. Will be needed to secure the last row.
Hacksaw. A wood saw may be needed when fitting the final boards.
Hammer. With its help, holes are drilled for joining at the location of the heating system. The first holes are made with this tool, and the subsequent work is done with a jigsaw.
Miter box. Will an indispensable assistant when installing skirting boards.
Sealant and a notched trowel.

Types and methods

The floating flooring method is the most popular throughout the world. The only limitation is the size of the room - it should not be more than 60 square meters. m. In this case, the base must be leveled, and the parquet board must have either a lock connection, or an ultralock, or a combination joint.

The second method of laying parquet boards is with polyurethane glue. With this, the concrete base must be leveled, the surface must be dried and dry. The moisture content of the screed should not exceed three percent. Special sheets of plywood are laid on the screed, which are subsequently sanded.

The glue is applied to the surface using a spatula, and the parquet board is tapped with a block to improve the effect. The glue dries in about 24 hours. But remember that some manufacturers advise using their own adhesive mixtures, so it is best to familiarize yourself with the manufacturer’s recommendations in advance.

In some cases, experts resort to a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. If you fix the board with self-tapping screws at a certain angle, it will fit securely to the base. This method is known among layers as mechanical.

The methods of fastening the board were discussed above; now it is worth familiarizing yourself with the methods of laying it.

The easiest way to lay parquet boards is either along or across the room. This method is often chosen, since installation does not require specific skills and experience. If you lay the parquet board lengthwise, the room will visually become longer, and if it is laid across, then, on the contrary, it will increase in width.

Mirrors will help enhance this visual effect. This must be taken into account in rooms of non-standard shape.

Diagonal masonry can only be done by professionals. It is less economical compared to laying along or across, since it produces a sufficient amount of trimmings. From a design point of view, the diagonal laying method is best used in square rooms. For the correct cut you will need Miter saw. The cutting angle should be 45 degrees in some places, 30 degrees in others.

Laying begins in the center of the room. To maintain a straight line, you need to pull the thread or draw a felt-tip pen along the floor. The first row is the central one; you can continue laying from it in one direction or the other.

The herringbone layout has been known to many since Soviet times. The parquet was laid in this way. The installation principle is no different, the only difference is the length of the parquet board - it significantly exceeds the length of the parquet.

Deck masonry is slightly different from the longitudinal method - the offset of the new row should be greater than half the parquet board of the previous one. This ensures good fixation, which means the life of the flooring increases.

Preparing the base

Before laying the parquet board, you need to take care of the base. The subfloor not only levels the surface, but also contributes to noise reduction and thermal insulation. Craftsmen recommend doing capital foundation and never return to him again. This approach saves not only money, but also time and effort.

The subfloor has two types - dry and self-leveling. The first type is made on logs, and the second is done using concrete. Concrete expanded clay can also be used for wet floors. You only need to start from the availability in the hardware store and your financial situation.

Self-leveling subfloors are mainly made in panel city houses. This is due to the fact that the ceilings of such houses are made of reinforced concrete slabs. IN country houses It is possible to make a concrete screed, but this requires an appropriate foundation.

Remember that you need to pour the concrete screed only after fixing the waterproofing. Plastic film sold in a hardware store is quite suitable for this.

If waterproofing is not done, there is a high probability that liquid concrete will flow through the cracks to the neighbors living on the floor below. Therefore, the film must be firmly attached, and along the edges of the room it should be supplemented with penoflex.

The next layer of the “pie” is the thermal insulation material. Commonly used ones include polystyrene foam and penofol. The latter has an additional coating consisting of aluminum foil, which reflects heat. Foamed polyethylene is a new product on the construction market; its cost is slightly higher than its predecessors, but due to its unique features the material is gaining popularity.

It would be useful to cover the thermal insulation material with another layer of waterproofing.

Before pouring the floor with concrete screed, it is necessary to set up beacons. The screed will subsequently be leveled along them. For accuracy you should use building level, it must be of suitable size and characteristics.

Concrete expanded clay has improved noise absorption and thermal insulation properties. It is the benchmark in this segment and is head and shoulders above the outdated concrete.

Mix the solution according to the instructions, then pour it onto the prepared base in a short time. Leveling the concrete screed is carried out using a tool - rules, do not forget about the beacons. Excess must be removed without sparing. After the surface becomes smooth, the floor is left to dry.

The subfloor made of wood is mounted on a concrete base. To do this, logs are laid on the prepared surface.

In this case, the base must be leveled and not have significant distortions, otherwise the parquet board laid on such a base will “creak”. And the floor itself will be crooked.

If the concrete floor in the room is uneven, it is recommended to “tweak” it slightly. It is correct, from the point of view of the layers, to use an additional layer of screed. A small amount of solution is enough to just correct this deficiency. TO next stage start after it has completely dried.

Subsequently, you need to put it on the screed waterproofing film. All cracks are thoroughly sealed with regular adhesive tape. Can be used as sound insulation natural material– balsa wood or the previously mentioned foamed polyethylene. Without this layer, there is a high probability of noise occurring when walking.

It is best to use high-quality edged board made of solid wood with dimensions 25 x 100 mm. It is not advisable to save money in this matter, otherwise the result will be disastrous. Remember that the miser pays twice. The logs are installed on a noise reduction layer, the result of the work is constantly checked using a building level. The joists are secured to the floor with corners.

The insulation is placed between the joists so that it is flush with them, there should be no protrusions. Plywood is laid on top of this structure. If the budget is limited, then plywood can be replaced with floorboards.

Remember that the thickness of the plywood must be more than 20 mm, otherwise it will deform under the weight of human traffic. Thin plywood can also be negatively affected by massive furniture.

Plywood must be laid in a checkerboard pattern. This ensures that the joints will not be in the same row. Installation is carried out using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. Do not forget that you need to lay plywood by making an indentation from the wall. It must be at least 3 cm.

If the house is wooden, then the subfloor can be installed according to load-bearing beams. In this case, the beams will play the role of a log, which means that thanks to this you can save significantly. But remember that p The distance between the beams should be small, otherwise you will have to “increase” additional basis from lag.

Selecting a substrate

If the parquet board is laid without the use of polyurethane glue (or any other), then a backing must be laid between the product and the base. Recommendations for the underlying layer are also given by manufacturing plants. This layer comes in the form of non-woven rolls or ordinary mats.

The underlay ensures a tight seal between the parquet board and the concrete or wooden floor, thereby reducing the likelihood of squeaks or other extraneous noise.

The backing layer protects the locking connection from premature failure. It retains heat well in the room and prevents damage to the parquet board due to moisture.

Despite all the advantages, it is worth remembering that they are achieved only if the thickness of the substrate does not exceed 3 mm. “Overdose,” as in the case of tablets, leads to negative consequences, in particular, to the destruction of the locks of the parquet board.

The choice of substrate is determined by the type of subfloor. For concrete, you can use a “non-breathable” substrate. And for a wooden base - only from natural materials, since if you use polyethylene, the wood may begin to rot under the influence of moisture.

The most affordable is an elastomer backing layer. It is available in three varieties. Ordinary can be called non-crosslinked polyethylene, in the second “place” - having a layer of aluminum foil - either on one or both sides. And foamed polyethylene, but do not confuse it with polyurethane and polypropylene.

The popularity of this synthetic material is due to its affordable cost, ease of installation, and excellent water-repellent properties. The material does not deteriorate even under the influence of a chemical environment. Unfortunately, there is also a significant drawback - during operation, the material may settle, which means that air will appear between the base and the parquet board, which can lead to squeaking.

Another synthetic material – foamed polystyrene – is used as a backing layer. On sale it can be found in the form of an accordion; there are also improved versions with a foil heat-reflecting layer. This material is easy to install, it protects the parquet board from moisture, has good noise-reducing properties, and retains heat. Unfortunately, it also has its drawback - it is high cost.

An underlayment made of pine or spruce is sold in hardware stores as pine mats. Coniferous substrate Suitable for any subfloor. It has all the previously mentioned qualities, like other representatives of this segment. Among the disadvantages, experts note high cost and installation - it is uneconomical and labor-intensive.

In addition, like any natural material, it is damaged by pests and fungal spores. It is desirable that the thickness of the substrate be less than 5 mm.

Construction paper was developed in the country that invented parquet boards. Therefore, we can safely recommend this underlying layer as an alternative to the others. Cardboard is dense, it is very difficult to tear, it “breathes” and has noise-reducing properties. But like any paper, cardboard does not tolerate moisture; it should not be laid in kitchens or bathrooms. Another disadvantage is the cost.

Cork substrate is available in the form of special sheets and rolls. This is a natural building material obtained by pressing tree bark. The most commonly used bark is oak. It is glued together using various resins. Like any natural material, it is subject to colonization by fungal spores, so it is necessary to lay waterproofing.

There are varieties in the store that have two layers. The second waterproofing layer is either rubber or bitumen. The addition gives the product soundproofing qualities, resistance to deformation and static electricity. Depending on the presence or absence of a second layer, the thickness of the cork backing can be either 2 or 7 mm.

One of the latest innovations in the construction segment is the Tuplex underlay, which is suitable for parquet boards with a thickness of over 10 mm. This is a synthetic material consisting of double polyethylene film and filler. The filler is mainly made of polystyrene. The base layer is also suitable for underfloor heating systems. Adhesive tape is used to secure it.

A plywood underlay is only required when leveling the base. If there is no such need, then a substrate will not be needed.

You can choose a base layer at any hardware store, based only on your preferences and financial situation.

Lay it on concrete

As an example, we will consider the adhesive installation method. Before you begin installing the parquet board, you need to treat the concrete floor acrylic primer. The application layer should not be too thick. After the primer has covered the entire surface, you need to wait until it dries.

Glue on your own physical indicators It should not resemble liquid sour cream, it is better that it is denser. The adhesive is applied to the concrete base using any in a convenient way, preferably with a brush. It is spread over the surface with a wide metal spatula.

Without waiting for the glue to dry, a base layer in the form of plywood sheets is laid. The glue must be applied evenly in all areas so that the plywood lies equally level - the work is checked using a building level. Plywood can be laid in any way, there is no difference, the main thing is not to forget to seal the seams with acrylic sealant. After two days, the work is checked again with a level, and if the installation was done efficiently, then it is necessary to consolidate the result - sand the surface.

A tape is suitable for this stage Grinder, it speeds up the process and does its job efficiently. You won't be able to achieve the same result with sandpaper.

The second stage involves laying the parquet board; either polyurethane glue or acrylic glue is suitable for this. First, wedges are installed - they limit the parquet board, and the gap is equal to 10 mm.

The glue is prepared in small containers and used in the first minutes, the board is laid with spikes against the wall. To distribute the glue you will need a spatula with a serrated design.

If you cut the next row by a third, you can achieve a beautiful pattern. In addition, the locking connection will hold better and will not collapse after some time. The leveling of the parquet board must be checked using a building level.

If the glue protrudes through the edges, it must be removed. After installing the floor, all seams are sealed with sealant. Finishing The parquet is made after waiting five days.

If the room has a wooden lining, then the floor is installed without glue or screws. The main condition is the small dimensions of the room or terrace. In this case, the locking connection will cope with its task with a bang, and the parquet board will last a long time.

How to put it on a “warm floor”?

First of all, I would like to note the fact that for a warm floor it is necessary to lay parquet boards made of either oak or walnut. It is these two types of wood that, in terms of their physical characteristics, ensure compatibility with it, since they do not deform under the influence of temperature. If the base is maple or beech, then such a board will fail in a short period of time, because their thermal conductivity is higher.

It is very important to take into account the thickness of the parquet board, and if the board is thick, then the “warm floor” effect will not be felt. The fact is that thick wood will not allow heat to escape. Only products whose thickness does not exceed 14.5 mm cope with this task.

The floor must be laid in a floating manner. With this method of laying, the wood does not deform under the influence of humidity and when the temperature changes. The floor heating system also plays an important role. Remember that wood is highly flammable, which means there is a risk of fire.

Warm floors come in infrared, water and electric type. Water and electric heated floors have been known to the world since the beginning of the last century. For electric heating element are cables, but in a wooden box there is a risk of fire, and it is completely forbidden to lay water cables in city apartments, since you can flood the neighbors below.

Infrared film heated floors were invented in South Korea several years ago. This is a kind of novelty, although indirectly it can be called a type of electric heating system. It is worth remembering that the temperature set on the thermostat should not be higher than 28 degrees.

Water floor – best option for country cottages, provided that the ceiling between the basement and the first floor is made using wooden blocks. It has significant disadvantages, including:

Wear plastic pipes. High probability of flooding basement and damage to parquet boards.
Problematic temperature control.
The floor will be raised ten centimeters.
It is necessary to have your own boiler room.

There are also a number of rules when installing parquet boards on a heating system. Firstly, installation is carried out only using the floating method, using plywood as a substrate. Secondly, the parquet board should not heat up to 30 degrees or higher. If this happens, the tree will become unusable.

You can lay a parquet board on a heated floor system yourself, but to do this you need to carefully study the work algorithm, and if you have doubts about your abilities, it is better to turn to specialists.

Installation technology

Let's take infrared heated floors as an example, since this new product is easiest to install with your own hands in city apartments and country houses.

The step-by-step instructions assume that installation is carried out on a prepared concrete or wooden base; it must be level, clean and dry. Differences should be checked with a building level; they should not exceed 2 mm.

For a concrete floor, grinding will have to be done, and for a wooden floor, sanding will have to be done. It is very important to clean the surface after completing work using a vacuum cleaner and broom.

Next, you need to protect the heating system from the actions of the concrete base; for this, a base layer is laid. Polyethylene acts as waterproofing and thermal insulation. It is important to mark out the infrared floor system and find a place for the sensor and thermostat. He is responsible for setting the temperature. Infrared mats are mounted with the film down and secured to each other using adhesive tape. Bitumen insulation protects products from the external environment.

After all connecting stages, the operation of the heated floor is checked. If heating occurs evenly, then a plywood layer is attached on top. It is on this that the parquet board will subsequently be installed.

Laying solid parquet boards can be done by one person. Modern models with a locking connection, the combination units are easy to install and reliable in operation. It doesn’t matter whether a two-strip or three-strip parquet board will be used, the installation procedure for all products is the same and it has already been discussed in the previous sections.

How to dock?

Unfortunately, parquet boards do not tolerate moisture, and in some rooms it is necessary to make a transition between the boards and tiles or other building materials. Most often, docking is used in the corridor - in front front door, between the corridor and the kitchen, between the bathroom and the corridor.

In studio apartments, country houses and other premises, the joint with tiles without a threshold can be sealed with sealant and liquid stopper. It is desirable that the sealant matches the color of one of the building materials.

Remember that colorless sealant is universal and suitable in most cases. Unfortunately, a low-quality substance will quickly become unusable and the repair will have to be redone. It is applied using a gun or syringe.

Liquid cork can be applied even by a non-specialist in this field, since it is a kind of glue. The glue holds two building materials together and does not deform or crumble. It is advisable to apply it after pre-treating the surface with oil. After the glue has dried, it is cut off with a knife. To do this, you can use a construction or stationery knife.

As decorative material Wooden cork, plastic or metal profile can be used. A cork made of wood is installed in the joints before sanding. The main feature of this material is that it acquires various geometric shapes, and this looks beautiful in most interiors. Another advantage is that the locking connection is not damaged during the operational period.

Metal and plastic profile lay only in a straight line. The profile protrudes above the surface. From a design point of view, this is the worst option. The metal profile, as a rule, has additional holes; screws must be screwed into them.

Remember that you need to work with tiles with a special drill, otherwise they may lose their presentation.

Features of installation to the wall and ceiling

Attaching parquet to the wall and ceiling is another recent trend. In this way, the unity of the interior is achieved, a kind of “box” is obtained. This room is suitable for speaker systems– home cinema, music room and projector room.

You need to attach the parquet board to a special frame; something similar was discussed in one of the sections - laying the floor on joists, only in this case the guides are located on the ceiling and on the walls.

If the sheathing is fixed to the wall, and especially to the ceiling, only with the help of a locking connection, then such a structure will fall apart like a house of cards. This is fraught with injuries and abrasions. Therefore, additional screws are screwed into each parquet board.

The transition between the ceiling and the wall can be left straight, but for elegance, craftsmen recommend bending the parquet board. Using a router, small indentations are made, after which the board “gives in.” The radius is selected by trial and error, but remember that it should be the same on all walls. The finishing is completed with the ceiling.

Common mistakes

Often, the installation of parquet boards begins immediately after its purchase. This is one of the common mistakes. The building material must “get used” to the temperature conditions of the room and its humidity.

Remember that the temperature should not be lower than 18 degrees. The parquet board should lie idle for at least two days.

Subfloor in mandatory must be leveled, differences of only about 2 mm are permissible. It is best to use concrete expanded clay; it gives the surface not only a leveled appearance, but also thermal insulation and sound absorption. All further actions are performed only after one hundred percent drying.

The waterproofing and underlay layer allows the parquet board to be used for a long time without creaking, and if you skimp on them, the result will be the opposite.

It is very important to lay the parquet boards last, but if the room requires wallpapering the walls, then you need to start with them. Remember that after wallpapering, wallpaper releases moisture when it dries, which means that the humidity in the room will be increased.

The wooden base of a parquet board is not intended for rooms with high humidity; its indicators must be normal and comply with the recommendations given by manufacturers.

Examples in the interior

In a country house you can beat with a parquet board top floor where the wall meets the roof. Such smooth transition is achieved through milling grooves; it is only important when fastening not to forget about the self-tapping screws. A conventional locking connection will not be able to withstand the own weight of the parquet board.
In studio apartments it is very important not to forget that parquet boards do not tolerate high humidity, and from this it follows that it is advisable to lay tiles or moisture-resistant parquet in the kitchen or hallway. In this case, docking can be done in any convenient way. In an apartment, such a transition is most often made in the hallway, because if you constantly step on the parquet board with wet shoes, it will become unusable in a short time.

Choosing flooring is quite important stage when installing floors in a house or apartment. And this determines what materials will have to be used for finishing. internal space premises. And since wood has always been the most popular material, many people still try to use parquet boards.

Depending on the professionalism of the parquet installer, the service life of such a coating directly depends. In addition, you don’t have to hire craftsmen to install the floor, especially if you can do everything necessary work with his own hand. Thanks to step by step plan You can easily lay the flooring yourself.

Types of parquet boards

Traditionally, experts classify parquet boards by the number of stripes that are visible on decorative layer. In accordance with this classification it can be:

Single lane. In this case, thanks to special technology it became possible production solid panels solid wood while maintaining the natural texture of wood.
Two-way. In this type of coating, the base is made of a solid or composite fabric. Finishing layer created from two planks.
Three-lane, where the panel design consists of three fragmented stripes.

Advantages

The widespread use of parquet boards is explained by a number of important reasons, such as:

more high stability to external influences, compared to natural wood;
impregnation of the surface in the factory with special protective compounds and no need for additional processing;
lower cost compared to natural parquet;
no need for scraping.

However, like any finishing material, the parquet panel also has some disadvantages:

since the texture of the board has a one-sided direction, you should forget about the figured laying of the floor covering;
does not have high moisture resistance, so additional protective measures must be taken.

First stage

Having decided to use a parquet panel, you must first calculate the area that needs to be covered so as not to buy extra material. Next, you need to examine the base for cracks and potholes, and if there is a slope, the need to create an additional screed using cement-sand mortar.

If the defects are not significant, then a regular substrate can be used. Direct laying of the covering is carried out on a pre-fixed plywood sheet, on which special cardboard is lined to create a vapor barrier. In this case, a polyurethane substrate is used. Also, very often when laying, a cork substrate with a thickness of 3-4 mm is used.

Installation methods

Parquet boards can be laid in the following ways:

floating;
adhesive.

In the first case, the panels are connected to each other using a special locking technology, making installation or dismantling very easy and simple.

The second method involves using glue to connect the floor covering to the base. Must be applied adhesive composition along the entire length onto the lower grooves of the board, and if laying will be carried out diagonally, then it should start from the corner of the room.

The installation process takes more than one day and requires a minimum set of tools, namely:

wood saw or jigsaw;
plastic block for tamping and hammer;
clamps and restrictive wedges;
square and building level;
roulette.

Base and installation of flooring

For high-quality flooring of parquet boards without adhesive joints, the base is required to be strong, clean and as even as possible. There are two types of bases for flooring - concrete screed and wooden floors with height adjustment.

The concrete screed must be without significant differences, otherwise the floor covering will creak. And wooden floors with the ability to adjust in height allow you to raise the surface by five or more centimeters, which makes it possible to save time on installation and lay various communications under them.

Before proceeding with the installation of the floor covering, the packaged material should be left for 2-3 days in the room where the repair will be carried out. It is necessary to lay a cork or synthetic backing under the panels, which will protect the board from excess moisture, for which the joints are subjected to additional sealing.

First, the first two rows are installed, which must be laid parallel to the rays of daylight falling from the window. To do this, along the walls, you first need to install special wedges and lay the first panels in a checkerboard pattern. The gap must be at least 10 mm. This gap is an expansion joint that allows you to protect the parquet board from mechanical stress when the material expands in the event of temperature and humidity changes.

After laying and pressing the first two panels to the wedges, you can begin installing the second row. The length of the panel of the second line closest to the wall should be at least 80 cm. Ideally, the transverse seam of the first row is located exactly in the middle of the parquet board of the second. The distance between the transverse seams of parallel rows must be at least half a meter, otherwise the fastening of the panels will be fragile.

Further, the panel of the second line enters the locking mechanism of the parquet board of the first row at an angle of about 20˚, but is not fixed. The next panel of the second row is inserted in exactly the same way, but it is already clicked and tapped together with the first board in the locking joint. After the parquet boards are adjusted to each other using timber until the seams disappear, they are firmly fixed in the same way, the entire floor in the room is laid, with the exception of the last row.

To lay the last parquet panels, it is necessary to very accurately measure the distance of the edge of the penultimate row to the wall. To create a compensation gap, the panel of the last row must have a width 10 mm less than the measured distance. Afterwards, on the grooves of the penultimate row, you need to cut off the locking edge, fill it with glue and insert the panel of the last row. You can firmly insert the board of the last row using the mounting paw, which comes complete with the parquet board.

On last stage install and fix the skirting boards, for which all spacer wedges should be removed. The baseboards are attached directly to the wall, and they should not be pressed tightly against the parquet board. When choosing a plinth, keep in mind that its width should easily cover the compensation gap.

Which is better: parquet, parquet boards or laminate

Laminate and parquet boards are currently the most popular types of flooring. Both of these finishing materials make it possible to obtain a durable and reliable coating, and sometimes they are so similar in appearance that it can be difficult for a person far from construction to distinguish them. So, what is the difference between parquet boards and laminate?

Production . Laminated panels for flooring can be compared to photo wallpaper transferred to multi-layer fiberboard, while a parquet board is three layers of natural wood glued perpendicular to each other and two of which are made from cheap raw materials, and the top face only from valuable wood species .

Appearance. The laminated panel most often has an imitation under natural wood, but all the strips have the same pattern. With a parquet panel, everything is different, since the pattern on it is identical to the natural structure of the wood, and you simply cannot find two identical panels.

Practicality. Laminate, due to its abrasion resistance, is more practical in comparison with parquet boards. Parquet panels need more careful attitude and do not tolerate large mechanical loads, as well as temperature changes and humidity surges.

Features of care. If you plan to install parquet floors in the kitchen, then you need to immediately buy special means care If the floor is mopped, it should be slightly damp, and when using washing vacuum cleaner It is not recommended to enable the “steam” function. Laminate is also sensitive to humidity, but not as much as parquet boards. It is not recommended to use household chemicals.

Lifetime. A parquet panel may seem like a fragile material only by appearance, but if it is properly cared for, it can last up to 30 years. In addition, the life of a parquet board can be significantly increased through periodic restoration, but no more than 4 times over the entire period. Laminate will last 7-20 years, and with a higher wear resistance class, it will last longer.

Price . Laminate High Quality does not differ much in cost from parquet boards, so when choosing a particular floor covering, take into account its properties and the characteristics of the room in which the installation will be carried out.

It is advisable to choose flooring from famous manufacturers due to the good geometry of the panels.

You should not install flooring from parquet panels in rooms with high traffic, for example, in the hallway, since the restoration of the floor will need to be done much more often than in the living room or bedroom.

Installation of parquet panels should be carried out at +18-24˚C and humidity of about 30-60%. In this case, the floor covering will last a very long time.

Before starting work on installing the floor covering, the parquet panels must be left for approximately 2 days in the room where the floor will be laid.

When laying boards, special gaps 10-15 mm wide are created near the walls for expansion joints, since wood can expand with changes in humidity and temperature, and this measure will avoid swelling of the coating.

The locking connection between parquet boards can be greatly facilitated by lubricating the locks with wax or paraffin impregnation. Sealants in in this case not worth using.

Laying should begin from the doorway, moving towards the window.

Following these simple tips will allow your parquet panel coating to last as long as possible.

How much does installation cost?

The price for installation work largely depends on the installation method and is about $9-10 per 1 m² for a “floating” floor and for an adhesive version on cement screed will cost about $13-14 per 1m². This is due to the fact that the adhesive installation method requires additional materials.

And in conclusion, we present to your attention a video tutorial that shows the entire technology of step-by-step installation of parquet boards

Many owners choose parquet boards as flooring. And this is quite understandable. This coating looks great in the interior. If the technology for laying parquet boards is followed, the floor will last for many years. An undoubted advantage of the coating is its ease of maintenance. Many people think that laying parquet boards on their own is difficult. Later in the article we will figure out whether this is so.

Tools

Of course, laying parquet boards is carried out using special devices. It must be said that every owner has most of the tools. Cutting panels is best done with a jigsaw. If you don’t have this tool, then you can easily use a hacksaw with fine teeth (for metal). The parquet board is knocked down using a hammer. Its weight should be about 1 kg. A specially prepared piece of plastic acts as a tamping block. He enters standard kit for laying laminate or parquet. A plastic block is not as rigid as a wooden one. Thanks to this, chipping at the edges of the panels can be avoided. During the installation process, you will also need plastic restrictive wedges. They are necessary to fix the gap between the coating and the walls. These wedges can be made independently from wood. Another device included in the parquet installation kit is a metal bracket. With its help, the last panel is fixed. If there is no metal bracket, it can be replaced with a clamp. You will also need a tape measure, a level and a square.

Laying parquet boards: basic methods

Depending on the dimensions of the panels, one or another version of the covering flooring is used. Among the most popular are the following:

On the logs.
Using nails. The panels are nailed to subfloor made of wood.
Glue method.
Floating method. In this case, the panels are connected using a special lock.

The latter option is considered the most popular today, since laying parquet boards in this case is convenient both in a small room and in a large room. Flooring glue method Today it is used less and less. This is due to the greater labor intensity of the entire process. In this case, laying the panels requires perseverance from the master. Fixing with nails to a wooden subfloor is usually used for solid parquet. But it must be said that this type of panel is gradually disappearing from stores. When laying parquet on joists, it is necessary to arrange a distance between them of no more than 30-40 cm. This is not very economically profitable. That is why in 90% of cases today the floating flooring method is used. This option is considered ideal for those who intend to do the work themselves. In any case, regardless of the chosen method, before laying the parquet board, it is necessary to prepare the base. It must be clean, level and dry.

Preparatory stage

Before laying the parquet board, it is kept for two to three days in the room where the work will be carried out. It is necessary to lay a backing under the panels. It can be cork or synthetic. Thanks to the backing, the parquet board will be protected from excess moisture. The strips of material must be glued together with tape at the joints. The more closely the parts fit together and the more thoroughly they are closed, the more airtight the base. Laying parquet boards with your own hands can be done using both parallel and diagonal methods. The selected option will not affect the performance characteristics of the coating. However, it should be remembered that diagonal laying significantly increases the consumption of parquet boards. It can range from 2 to 7%. As a rule, the diagonal method is used in those rooms where it is necessary to smooth out the effect of unsuccessful placement of furniture.

First row

Let's take a closer look at how to properly lay parquet boards. The first stage involves laying the 1st and 2nd rows. They should be located parallel to the light falling from the window. Therefore, before laying the parquet board, you should install wedges against the wall to provide clearance. The gap between the coating and the wall is at least 10 mm. This distance is necessary to protect the panels from mechanical damage when changing temperature and humidity conditions in the room. The first two panels are pressed tightly against the spacer wedges.

Optimal distance between seams

Many beginners do not know how to properly lay parquet boards. Experienced specialists recommend that when laying the second row, the panel closest to the wall is cut to a length of at least 80 cm. It is believed ideal option, in which the transverse seam in the first row will be located opposite the middle of the board of the second. However, in any case, a minimum run-up must be maintained. The transverse seams of parallel rows should be located at a distance of at least half a meter from each other. Otherwise, the connections will be weak.

Second row

Many craftsmen find the floating method very convenient. If there are any errors during the installation process, everything can be corrected. The panel from the second row must be inserted into the groove of the first. To do this, the board is tilted at an angle of approximately 20 degrees. The panel snaps into place, but is not fixed. The second board is inserted in the same way. It also snaps and is tapped to the first one. After the panels are tightly joined, they are fixed in the groove of the first row. To completely eliminate the seam, the boards are beaten using timber. Using this method, the covering is laid over the entire floor.

The last row

Many, especially beginners, craftsmen may have some difficulties at the final stage of flooring. By following these recommendations, you can make your work much easier. First of all, you should measure the distance from the wall to the penultimate row. The width of the panel that will complete the flooring should be 1 cm less than the obtained value. This ensures the necessary compensation gap. In the groove of the penultimate row it is necessary to cut off the locking edge. After this, the finishing boards are inserted. For a tight insertion, a mounting paw or clamp is used.

Shutdown

The final stage is the installation of skirting boards. The wedges must first be removed from the expansion gap. The baseboards are attached exclusively to the wall surface. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that it is not pressed tightly against the parquet. The width of the plinth should be enough to hide the expansion gap.

Diagonal method

Laying parquet using this method is carried out in the same way as described above. The only difference is that the panels are not located straight, but at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the axis of the room. It is best to determine the direction of the flooring while standing with your back to the doors. This option is not suitable for a rectangular narrow room, as it will look very colorful.

Finishing

Previously, traditionally, after laying parquet, it was sanded. This made it possible to achieve a perfectly flat surface. For modern parquet flooring this procedure is not required. But during operation, in some cases it becomes necessary to refresh the surface. To do this, scraping is carried out to a depth of no more than 0.5 mm and additional coating with several layers of varnish. A three-layer parquet board is tidied up using a sander belt type. Powerful drum units are not suitable for this work. This is due to the fact that they create quite strong vibration, which, in turn, negatively affects the internal structure of the coating. Sanding begins with 40-grit sandpaper. The process is completed with 150-grit abrasive. The completion of the work can be checked by running your hand across the floor. If there are no roughnesses, then grinding is complete.

Piece parquet, which was very popular in its time, is being replaced today by more modern materials. Among them, a worthy competitor to parquet is a parquet board with an equally presentable, noble appearance. But this flooring is much more affordable, less demanding to maintain, and more resistant to mechanical damage.

One of the indisputable advantages of parquet boards is the ease of installation. If for styling piece parquet Usually you have to invite qualified specialists, whose services are quite expensive, but it’s quite possible to lay a parquet board yourself.

Parquet boards can be laid on different substrates:

concrete
wooden, plank or with a screed made of sheet materials
a second layer on the old floor covering (linoleum, short-pile carpet, tiles)
on the logs
on a warm floor

The requirements for the base are the same as for all floor coverings - integrity, strength, absence of significant differences in height. Under the parquet board, the slope should be no more than 2 mm per 1 m (unless other requirements are specified in the recommendations of the floor covering manufacturer), and unevenness, surface curvature - no more than 1 mm per 20 cm. Base errors not exceeding these values can be adjusted using . A heavily damaged concrete or wooden base must be dismantled and re-arranged.

The second layer of parquet board can be laid if there are no swellings, defects, or unevenness of the old coating. Carpet or linoleum will serve as a substrate; installation on top of them is carried out exclusively in a floating manner. Floating and adhesive installation is possible on top of the tiles, Before laying on glue, the surface must be degreased.

Only parquet boards of sufficient thickness (minimum 22 mm) can be laid on the joists. she shouldn't bend. Lag requirements:

dry, strong without rot
installed in increments of 40-60 cm.
with a surface that is at the same level throughout the entire area of the room

You need to stretch a waterproofing film over the joists, fixing it with staples, and screw 2 cm thick plywood sheets with self-tapping screws. The sheets should be staggered so that the seams between them fall in the middle of the beam. It is necessary to leave expansion joints between the sheets of 0.5-1 cm and a gap of 1-1.5 cm around the perimeter. With a significant thickness of the parquet board and a small pitch between the joists, it is possible to lay it directly on them without a plywood backing, with a hidden fixation with nails.

Only water-based heated floor systems are compatible with parquet boards., on the eve of installation the heating must be turned off. It is not recommended to use boards thicker than 8.5 mm over heating systems. For heated floors, the adhesive method of laying parquet boards is better suited.

Preparation for installation

Before you begin laying the parquet board, it is necessary to inspect and prepare the base (leveling, strengthening), check its humidity level (when checked with a hygrometer, it should be no more than 2-3%), thoroughly clean it of debris and dust.

The next step is waterproofing and laying the underlay (if the parquet board is laid on top of the old coating, this step can be skipped).

The waterproofing film is spread overlapping and taped at the joints and around the perimeter
If the parquet board will be laid in a floating manner, a soft backing made of polyethylene foam, polystyrene, or
The rolled substrate is laid end-to-end, the mats are laid end-to-end and apart
For adhesive installation a solid base is required moisture resistant plywood, the length and width of the sheets should not exceed 1 m. After fastening, the substrate must be sanded and cleaned of dust

The purchased board must be kept indoors where the floor will be laid, but it is recommended to unpack it immediately before installation.

Indoor microclimate requirements:

temperature 18-24⁰
humidity 30-60%

If you have to trim a board in the last row and its width is less than 6 cm, you must also trim the boards in the first row so that the width of the first and last rows is the same
Trimming the boards to width may also be necessary if the wall along which they are laid is very crooked. It is better that the unevenly cut boards adhere to the wall near which the furniture will subsequently stand
The length of the last fragment in the row must be at least 50 cm.
The boards must be laid staggered, offset by ½ or ⅓ of the length, but not less than 50 cm.

Required Tools

jigsaw for cutting boards (can be replaced with a saw or hacksaw with fine teeth)
lightweight hammer for tapping, preferably a rubber mallet
long (1.5-2 m) rule, level
ruler, square, tape measure, pencil
for laying on glue - notched trowel
clamp or bracket for tamping the last boards
You can use scraps of boards as a tamping block, and spacer wedges can be made from scrap materials.

Methods for laying parquet boards

Parquet boards are produced with locking joints that secure the boards together. It is also possible to attach them additionally to the base. Based on the characteristics of the room, the direction of installation is selected.

Laying technology

Parquet boards can be laid:

floating method
hard way (with glue)
with fixation with nails to the joists

Pros and cons of floating and adhesive installation

Floating installation:

high speed and simplicity
possibility of error correction during installation process
possibility of repair, replacement of individual boards
When moving, the covering can be completely dismantled and the boards can be reused
non-susceptibility to deformation due to temperature fluctuations
no glue costs
ready for use immediately after installation

Minuses:

not suitable for rooms with high floor loads and areas larger than 50 m²
not recommended for heated floors
sensitive to ground unevenness
requires the mandatory use of transition thresholds

Installation with glue:

has no restrictions on area and load
less demanding on the base, allows you to smooth out unevenness
goes well with heated floors

Minuses

time and labor costs increase
additional costs for glue
operation is possible only after the glue has completely cured
Correcting errors, repairs, and maintenance of floors are difficult
boards cannot be reused

Laying direction and pattern

in a straight line, along the length of the wall (the simplest and most commonly used method)
across, usually used for visual expansion narrow room or if the parquet board is laid on an old plank floor (the boards should lie perpendicular to the floorboards of the base)
diagonally, suitable for square rooms, allows you to make the corner the compositional center of the room, focusing attention on it. More the hard way with a lot of waste

Laying parquet boards with your own hands

Before laying the first row, you need to install spacer wedges at the walls and cut the boards in accordance with the laying pattern.

Features of diagonal laying

When laying diagonally, the boards are cut at an acute angle, usually 30 or 45⁰. It is best to stretch the cord from corner to corner and align the first row of boards along it.

You can start laying from the corner, moving from window to door, or from the center of the room, moving from left to right. The panels are first joined end to end in rows, then the freshly assembled row is joined to the already laid one. The first, central row will be the longest; it is advisable to put it in place after joining the panels at the ends together with an assistant. To prevent it from moving during the process of docking the next rows, it is necessary to place a load on top. It is important that when laying narrow joints run apart.

Floating installation

The first row is assembled against the wall, with the groove facing it, close to the spacer wedges. The boards are connected at the ends and, for maximum tightness, they are lightly tapped through a spacer, for example, a wooden block
Laying will be faster if you connect the panels to the laid row not one by one, but assemble them in a row, then connect the rows, tackling each board. To prevent the panels from moving apart, you can temporarily fasten them at the joints using scraps of boards, at the same time eliminating height differences
As necessary, holes are cut for pipes, and special plugs are installed on top of these places.
The last row is tapped through a bracket; in the area of the doorway, the board is trimmed to fit tightly to the frame
After laying the board over the entire area, the spacer wedges are removed, baseboards and thresholds are installed

Installation with glue

To lay parquet boards, you cannot use glue on water based. Usually it is enough to apply the adhesive composition only to the base, but in case of intense load on the floor, you can additionally coat the back side of the boards with glue. It is also recommended to glue the joints.

You can use glue to cover the area of the floor under each panel being laid, but if you have the skill, it is more convenient to cover the area with glue along the entire length of the room and 3 boards wide. First, the first row is assembled and pressed to the base; the protrusion facing the wall must be cut off before starting installation. Next, the stacking method is used, the boards are connected to the laid row one by one, each one is carefully pressed. Excess glue must be promptly removed.

Laying on joists

To fix the parquet board to the joists, nails without heads are driven into the grooves at an angle of 45⁰, and the boards are connected to each other with locks.

Laying parquet boards with your own hands: video instructions:

Bottom line

Parquet boards can be laid on a prepared base or old flooring. The easiest way to install is the floating method. Laying with glue is more labor-intensive, but this floor covering can withstand significant loads. Laying diagonally is more difficult than laying straight, requires careful calculations and is associated with increased waste.