Gazebo from window frames with your own hands. Step-by-step instructions with photos

Master class "Do-it-yourself gazebo from old window frames"

Master class on building a gazebo. Feng Shui gazebo

Author: Natalya Aleksandrovna Ermakova, Teacher, Municipal Budgetary Educational Institution additional education children "Children's art school named after A. A. Bolshakov", the city of Velikiye Luki, Pskov region.
Description: The material can be useful to everyone who is interested in creativity, gardening and landscape design, to all those who love their garden and are involved in its improvement.
Purpose: the gazebo will serve as a wonderful relaxing place for the whole family, creating your own unique design and a great mood.
Target: creating a gazebo from old window frames.
Tasks: build a gazebo from scrap materials, create a resting place for the whole family from old frames, protected from wind and bad weather.

Hello, dear guests! The veneration of nature and the perception of it as part of man himself was previously manifested in pagan religions. But in Slavic countries, pre-Christian religions have long since died out. But the Chinese still believe that any tree, blade of grass or stream can influence a person’s destiny, giving him positive energy or, conversely, taking away some vitality. The harmony between people and nature is called geomancy, and Tibetan monks live by its laws. In the West, only one branch of geomancy is known - Feng Shui. This direction deals with the arrangement of a person’s personal space - his home, plot and even wardrobe. It is believed that a feng shui garden helps a person live in happiness and attracts the necessary energies (love, fame, etc.). And the more carefully you arrange every corner of the space, the faster you will achieve your goals.

Today we will talk about this important element, which must definitely be in your yard or at the dacha, and to be more precise, this work will be devoted to an ordinary, but so necessary gazebo.
A beautiful gazebo on a summer cottage can become its main decoration and main highlight. Since ancient times, people have built small gardens cozy houses, which allowed us to admire the beauty of nature. When positioned correctly personal plot a gazebo can attract positive energy.

Gazebos can perform various functions. This could be a small cozy building in the depths of the garden, conducive to contemplation and reflection alone. And there are others, those who are able to gather the whole family under their roof on a day off. There you can easily drink aromatic tea and have fun communicating with loved ones.
Depending on the sector in which the gazebo will be located, its shape is selected:
-North-round and octagonal gazebos;
-Northeast-square, rectangular, round;
-East – square, rectangular;
-Southeast-square, rectangular, octagonal gazebos;
-South - octagonal, square;
-Southwest-square, rectangular;
-West-square and round;
-Northwest-square and round gazebos;
-In the center of the site - octagonal.
Each direction of the world is responsible for a certain aspect of life: wealth, longevity, love, creativity, career, family and children.

The size, shape and methods of decorative design of the gazebo depend solely on the imagination and wishes of the owner of the site. The optimal place to place a gazebo is a space that is closed from the noise and dust of the street, from which there is a view of any decorative element or a composition pleasing to the eye. If there is a reservoir of artificial or natural origin on the site, then it is better to locate this structure on its shore.
It is advisable that the gazebo be protected from the wind by a hedge of bushes or a group of trees. It would also be useful to place flower beds near it, alpine coaster, suitable garden sculptures and everything that will make this corner of the garden attractive to all family members. At the same time, we should not forget that all the details must be combined with each other and create a complete picture.

When installing a gazebo, you should take into account its lighting. It must be selected in accordance with its purpose and future functions. If you plan to gather in the gazebo in the evenings for any activities - board games, handicrafts or reading - then the lighting should be bright enough, but not blinding. If you want to give this corner of the garden a romantic look, you should illuminate the path to the gazebo and place sconces with dim light on its walls.

According to an ancient Chinese proverb, a person has three main things: fate, chance and feng shui. Fate gives us a chance to get acquainted with Feng Shui to improve our health and our lives. Everyone has their own destiny. We cannot change our origin, gender, nationality or date of birth. But every person has a chance to get acquainted with Feng Shui in order to change and improve not only their health, but their entire life. Feng Shui is a unique folk wisdom that has collected centuries-old observations of nature, its changes and signs.

1.Don't sit on the corner.
“Seven years without reciprocity,” you say? If only that! According to Feng Shui, a protruding corner aimed at a person, be it the corner of a table, cabinet or any other, sends “poisoned arrows” at the poor fellow, which will leave him not only without reciprocity, but also without money, health and luck.
2. Don't say goodbye over the threshold.
“You’ll quarrel,” they say. That's right: the threshold is an energy barrier separating two worlds. On one side - “ours”, on the other - “alien”. The invisible border prevents contact from being established, and things and energy transferred “from world to world” are lost for both worlds. So it turns out that the connection between the “contact participants” is destroyed.
3. Don't cook when you're in a bad mood.
This is what mothers and grandmothers teach novice housewives. Older generation absolutely right: food absorbs the surrounding energy, and we, by absorbing this very food, receive, along with calories and vitamins, the corresponding energy charge. Borscht and cutlets, “charged” with a quarrel, news of another terrorist attack, or emotions generated by a television “horror” movie, are quite capable of poisoning a family.
4. Don't stand behind someone's back.
- we say, shivering chillily, even if there is someone quite close and dear behind us. And the point is not in the ancient instinct that makes you fear a creeping enemy, but in the fact that the unprotected rear itself poses a threat. Feng Shui considers the lack of support and support from behind to be the weakest energy position. Moreover, this is equally important for both the person and the home. There should always be a wall or at least a screen behind you, and the rear of your house should definitely be protected by a high hill or at least a neighbor's house.
5. Don't paint yourself into a corner.
Another extremely unfavorable position according to Feng Shui. The corner is considered a place that can drain energy from a person - a kind of domestic vampire. It’s not for nothing that a child who has been naughty for a long time is put with his nose in a corner - so that he loses the excess of hooligan energy (the main thing is not to overexpose your beloved child there...).
6. Don't look in a cracked mirror.
According to Feng Shui, not only cracked mirrors are harmful, but also mirrors with a pattern, mirror tiles, and other surfaces that break or crush the reflection. All this fragments and destroys energy, which will affect, first of all, health.
7. A mirror in your pocket will protect you from the enemy.
We still believe that when meeting an ill-wisher, putting a mirror in your pocket helps - of course, with the reflective side out. It will reflect all his bad thoughts and intentions. And also - all the negative energy directed against you is commented on by Feng Shui. And he advises hanging a mirror above the door or window to protect your home from adverse influences.
8. Don’t show it off on yourself.
We warn a person who talks about someone’s illnesses. According to Feng Shui, the mechanism of the evil eye in this case is as follows: by pointing with a finger, we send an energy charge. At the same time, naming the disease, we give this charge the appropriate “coloring”: we fill it with accurate information about the diagnosis.
9. Don't come back halfway.
- “there will be no way.” Of course, says Feng Shui! Remember what we told you about the threshold? All these leaps “from world to world” are quite energy-intensive - this is probably known to avid travelers who often cross state borders. If you had to return, restore your strength: sit down (take some strength at home), look in the mirror (reflecting, your energy doubles).
10. Run under the rainbow - you will be happy.
Of course, those who remember physics understand: it is in principle impossible to do this. But even seeing a rainbow - a symbol of the Gates of Heaven - is considered a good sign. And Feng Shui recommends “taming” a rainbow and placing it in your own home. That is why arched openings are so favorable - when passing under them, each time we “step under the rainbow” and receive the protection of Heaven.

Materials and tools:
- old window frames
-wooden beams 50:50 (6 meters 13 pieces)
-roulette
-hammer, nails 3, 2*50, 3.5*80
-screwdriver, wood screws 3.8*32
- impact drill (metal drill)
-water-based stain (lemon), water-based emulsion, brush
- red enamel (terracotta) 6 kg, white spirit (solvent), brush
-cement, construction sand, river sand
-a bucket for cement mortar, 2 mayonnaise buckets, a trowel
-shovel
-saw
-perforated fasteners and corners
-ladder
-stapler, fabric paintings (painting on fabric)
The cement mortar is made in a ratio of 1:4. That is, for 1 bucket (mayonnaise) of cement you will need 4 buckets of sand. The sand should be sifted, or simply by hand, and that’s exactly what I did, remove large stones, sift the sand through your fingers. A construction bucket requires 2 buckets of cement, 8 buckets of sand and 2.5 buckets of water. When all the ingredients are poured into the container, they must be mixed using a hammer drill with a concrete mixer screwed into it, literally 7-10 minutes, until smooth.

Progress of the master class:

We begin work by preparing materials. The beam needs to be cut in half, three meters each, leaving one beam unsawn. Then the beams must be covered with stain to preserve the wood and ensure longer service life.

The timber has dried and we begin construction of the walls of the gazebo. We connect two large frames together using timber. We nail the timber to the frame from the bottom and top sides with large nails (80*). My area is very small, so I immediately place the finished wall at the intended location.

I'm not a builder, but I really like to make something useful out of unnecessary things. Therefore, I don’t have a specific construction plan; everything is a work in progress. As they say, appetite comes with eating! I paint the frames with inside leftovers water-based paint diluted with yellow gouache. In order for the background to have an even character, the color is applied by a kind of slapping of the brush on the glass.
In the art of Feng Shui, the color yellow indicates cheerfulness, cheerfulness, and brilliance. It symbolizes the hot and shining sun, a warm sunny day, gold, longevity. Light yellow color is best suited to create an atmosphere of friendship and creativity. Yellow and gold are the colors of the earth. They can provide a sense of stability, hope and happiness.

Next, I determine the place where the corner of the gazebo will be, and we will begin construction from there. Let me get ahead a little, I will secure each pillar with fragments of brick and subsequently fill it with cement.

We moisten the ground with water and pour in cement; the post should be left motionless for about a day.

Then you need to assemble the second wall of the gazebo, it is assembled in the same way as the first, we knock down the frames using a beam.

This side will consist of three frames, smaller in size, but of the same height.

Then two finished walls need to be installed at the first pillar in the shape of the letter "L". And fasten them to the base of the post using large nails driven from the edges of the frames. First, we nail one frame to the post, then the second, do not forget to monitor the level of the walls so that their edges are at the same height (1).
Near the end of the second unpainted wall, we dig a hole for the second post, place the post there close to the frame and nail it together with large nails (2). For greater connection strength, we use perforated fasteners for the timber. We attach them using wood screws and a Phillips screwdriver.
That part of the gazebo where the painted yellow the frame will be lower, the opposite side will be higher. This is needed for the roof to be good scat water. For the lower part we need three beams, you need to immediately measure the length that suits you, and saw off the excess timber with a saw.

Now we move to the other side of the gazebo. We also dig a hole, install timber, and fasten it to the frame with nails.
Next we will continue the wall with a frame from interior door. At the required distance we dig a hole for the fourth pillar.

First, we knock down the outer beam with the door with nails, then install it in place.

We fasten the frames together using perforated fasteners (iron plate with holes), wood screws and a screwdriver, in several places from the inside and outside gazebos.

Using timber we measure the third side of our building. The line can be marked using a shovel, drawing a guide line on the ground.

This is how the frame turned out. Top beam secured with nails and fasteners.
The gazebo has an L-shape, with a sofa located near the sides protected from the wind, and a large family hearth in the middle. Since our family loves fire very much, and a big fire is an integral part of our family evening, two walls must be left open.
The fire pit was laid out with stones and cement a year ago, but has not yet been fully completed.

Now I want to give the gazebo a look, let's paint it.

The color I chose was terracotta; according to Feng Shui, this is the color of earth, confidence and stability; it is considered very pleasant for human perception.
Terracotta color is suitable for people who cannot imagine their life without vivid emotions and impressions, who are gambling and passionate, who adore adventure. Let's break it down into its tonal components! The red hue is considered aggressive and ardent, but becoming clayey, it calms down a little. If the scarlet color can be compared to the beauty of a young girl, then terracotta is a mature femininity. From orange he got energy, unabashed joy, and the ability to cheer up with just his appearance. And from brown there is a certain balance, dimension, depth. With all this, terracotta is a natural color associated with nature, rocky mountains, sunsets. For those who cannot afford frequent rest, this shade can become a kind of pill from a routine lifestyle. There are so many emotions hidden in it that you can comprehend this color for a long time. But don't forget one simple thing– loving a color and feeling comfortable in its environment are completely different things. Terracotta color in details is suitable for a romantic and sublime interior; terracotta color practically does not combine with cool tones.
It is believed that this color is pleasant to the eye and can enhance the feeling of security and safety and goes perfectly with white and its shades (roof-white metal). Feng Shui recommends using terracotta color in paintings placed at the entrance to the room if you are afraid of theft in your home or workplace.

Since there was no construction plan, the material for the roof had not yet been purchased. Now we need to measure the size of the gazebo, I got the size of the gazebo 3 by 4 meters. We calculate this footage by the size of the corrugated sheets (1.5 by 1.2) - in total, we need 6 sheets.

While we are waiting for the delivery of corrugated sheets, we continue the construction of the walls of the gazebo. Let's make the area near the sofa more sheltered from the wind. We will work on the same principle as with other walls. First, we fill the bottom and top of the frame with timber, then we connect the frame with the corner beam.

We dig a hole under the timber on the other side of the frame and fasten the parts with nails.

Near the door frame we will also make a small extension of the wall using the same principle. Then we will completely paint the gazebo and the posts for the roof frame.

In some places there is no glass in the frames; I will disguise these voids using fabric paintings (painting on fabric) and a stapler.

This is how the picture gallery turned out. Moreover, all the paintings are placed in accordance with Feng Shui recommendations.
Rules for placing paintings according to Feng Shui.

Using the remaining canvases we create a tablecloth for the table in the gazebo area.

It's time for the roof. We lay out a sheet of corrugated board and beams on the ground; we need to distribute them evenly over the entire area of ​​the sheet.

Then you need to fasten the timber with sheets of corrugated board. This can be done using self-tapping screws, this method is more expensive (screws are sold individually). First, a hole is drilled with a drill (a metal drill), then a self-tapping screw is screwed in.

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How to restore old ones yourself wooden windows so as not to buy new ones

Hello. In this article I will tell you how to update old wooden windows with your own hands. I understand that there are fewer and fewer such windows and topics related to plastic double glazed windows more relevant. But, since glazing, originally from the Soviet past, is still used by some thrifty owners to this day, it would be wrong not to say anything about the restoration of such structures.

A few words about the goals and results of restoration

When we talk about old wooden windows, we imagine standard design from one solid part and a hinged door with a window. But, in fact, half a century ago glazing was produced in various configurations, and therefore repair of old windows requires individual approach to the window in accordance with its design features.

What elements window designs restored during restoration?

Let's take a closer look at each of the stages restoration work listed in the table.

Glass replacement

So, imagine the following situation: the glass in your window is broken and you don’t know how to replace it. In fact, there is nothing complicated here.

To complete the work we will need the following materials and tools:

• Glass corresponding in size to the piece that requires replacement;
• Bead of suitable thickness or window putty;
• Nails 10 mm long;
• Narrow-nose pliers;
• A small hammer weighing no more than 300 grams;
• Masking tape or electrical tape;
• Glass cutter;
• Square and long metal ruler;
• Black marker.

The instructions for replacing old glass with new ones are as follows:

• We dismantle the old glazing bead or remove a layer of old putty, depending on the type of glazing;
• To avoid injury, carefully remove the old glass;
• Clearing seat along the perimeter of the frame from old paint or putty;
• We check the compliance of the angles by applying a right angle to each corner of the sash;

If the angles around the perimeter of the seat are not straight, you will have to align the sash or cut the glass taking into account the angle that exists.

• Filming exact dimensions seat and transfer them to the glass using a square and ruler;
• Next, we apply a metal ruler along the marks and guide the glass cutter along the ruler;
• Apply a thin strip of acrylic or silicone sealant to the previously cleaned perimeter of the seat;
• We place the glass in the prepared opening and press it evenly around the perimeter of the seat so that the sealant spreads evenly;

• We also apply a thin layer of sealant around the perimeter of the junction of the glass and the frame and at the same time try to fill the gap between the glass and the wood;
• We cut off the ends of the glazing bead at an angle of 45 degrees;

• We press the glazing bead to each of the four sides and nail it with nails in increments of 10-15 cm;

Without experience, you can easily scratch the glass with a hammer. To prevent this from happening, I recommend wrapping the striking part of the hammer with electrical tape or masking tape.

• Along the perimeter, we wipe off any excess sealant that has protruded from under the bead from the glass;
• Use wood putty to fill the gap between the frame and the bead;
• Once the sealant and putty have dried, you can begin sanding and painting.

How to cut glass

Today, in every city there are organizations where you can purchase glass of the desired and desired colors. Of course, in these same organizations the glass you ordered can be cut to the dimensions you specify.

By the way, the price of glass already includes the cutting service. But, despite this, I still believe that there should be a glass cutter at home and you need to be able to use it.

Let’s say you purchased a glass cutter, how to use it for its intended purpose?

The instructions for cutting glass are simple. Draw a line along which we will cut. You can only draw on glass with a permanent marker, that is, a marker that does not erase.

Next, apply a straight, long ruler to the line. We move the glass cutter along the ruler with slight pressure from one end of the ruler to the other. The correct pressure when pressing can be determined by a specific creaking sound.

Bead or putty

What is better for installing glass, glazing bead or putty?

I find that glazing bead placed over caulk is much better than putty, as the putty will begin to dry out and crack over time. But, if the glazing bead required thickness no, you can apply putty by laying it out in a rope around the perimeter of the glazing and smoothing it, imitating glazing bead.

The question is, if the glass is held in place by a glazing bead nailed in place, what will hold it in place if putty is used?

In this case, we proceed as follows. We place the glass on the seat and drive in nails along the entire perimeter so that they lie flat on the surface of the glass.

If the nails do not fit tightly to the glass, the window will rattle when loud sounds come from outside.

If you are interested in the topic of using window putty, write about it in the comments and in one of the following articles I will definitely talk about several ways to prepare putty with your own hands.

Restoration and replacement of accessories

Conventionally, all fittings on wooden windows are divided into:

• Loops— hinged mechanisms that are simultaneously attached along the inner perimeter of the frame and along the outer perimeter of the sash;
• Locking systems– most often these are bolts and a latch handle with a strike plate mounted on the frame.

What problems can there be with the fittings?

Problems three:

• Firstly, metal moving parts, sooner or later, rust, which negatively affects their operation;
• Secondly, when painting old windows is of poor quality, the fittings are also painted over, which negatively affects its functionality;
• Thirdly, the hinges sag under the weight of the sashes, which negatively affects the quality of the vestibule.

All previously listed problems can be eliminated by replacing the fittings from old to new. Moreover, butterfly hinges and a set of locking handles and latches can still be purchased to this day in most hardware stores.

However, if the purchase price of accessories seems high to you, we proceed as follows:

• We remove the sash from the hinges - to do this, unscrew the hinge or squeeze it out of the hinges, and then pull out the turning pin;

The pin inside the hinges will probably be soured, so before pulling it out, I recommend spraying WD-40 into the gap. You can begin dismantling the sash in a minute, since during this time lubricant will have time to act.

• Next, unscrew the screws that hold the hinges and remove both halves;
• Remove the handles and other elements of the locking system;
• We treat the fittings with paint remover, and then clean them paintwork;

Be prepared for the fact that the old paint is applied in several layers, and therefore the remover will not help immediately and will also need to be applied in several layers. In addition, try to use a remover with an anti-corrosion effect.

• The cleaned fittings are washed to remove residues of the remover and coated with a rust converter;
• The fittings are painted with modern paints and varnishes for metal;
• After drying, the fittings are installed in their original place, and the moving elements in the rubbing areas are lubricated.

One more thing - when replacing or restoring the fittings, it will probably turn out that the original holes for the screws are broken. What to do in this case?

Some people try to move the hinges and locking mechanisms, but I think that this is not a solution, since sometimes there is nowhere to move these parts. Some people use longer screws than originally. But this solution is also short-lived, since long screws will quickly wobble in broken holes.

You can strengthen the holes for the screws by cutting out small pegs and driving them into the broken holes. We cut off the rest of the peg flush with the surface. After this, you can confidently screw in the screws and not be afraid that they will come out over time.

Window insulation using Swedish technology

In the photo - processing the sash with an electric planer

Instructions for restoring an old wooden window would be incomplete without insulating them according to Swedish technology.

This is done as follows:

• The sashes are removed from the frame;
• Use a plane to level the perimeter of the sash;
• A groove is cut out along the perimeter of the sash using a router;
• A rolling roller presses the sealing strand into the groove;
• The ends of the bundle are inserted into one another and also rolled into the groove.

At this point, window insulation using Swedish technology can be considered complete. However, in addition to installing the seal, fittings are adjusted and the tightness of the glazing around the perimeter of the bead is checked.

DIY painting

In order to update antique windows made of wood, they first need to be painted with high quality.

Painting is done in two ways:

1. The old paintwork is matted and new paint is applied over it - a budget option which is done in haste;
2. The old coating is completely removed, the wood is puttied, sanded, primed and only then painted.

Of course, the second option will allow you to achieve best result painting, but the price of such restoration will be high. The fact is that you will first have to dismantle the sashes from the frame, remove all the fittings from them, remove the glass, and only after that start preparing the wood.

Old paint can be removed with a blowtorch, but this method requires special experience, otherwise the wood can be burned. As alternative solution You can use chemicals, namely paint removers. It is not customary to use chemicals to clean lumber, but such treatment will not harm frames and sashes.

After cleaning the old coating, you will most likely see a raised surface. In order for the paint to lay evenly, the relief must be puttied with special putties, dried, and then sanded sandpaper with variable degree of grain size.

Both the inside and outside of the window can be painted with pentaphthalic enamel PF-115 and PF-116, and as a primer I recommend covering the wood with a continuous layer of drying oil. The use of a primer in this case is necessary not to ensure better adhesion, but to reduce absorption and reduce paint consumption.

Second life for unnecessary windows

So, we have looked at the main points related to the restoration of old window structures. Now I propose to find out how to use old window frames that are no longer needed.

Let's say you ordered new double-glazed windows from PVC profile, which means the old windows will be dismantled and you will need to do something with them. The first thing that comes to mind is the idea of ​​taking it to a landfill, since such a huge thing simply won’t fit in regular trash cans.

On the other hand, if you have a country house, you can use lumber that has become unnecessary to greater benefit. So, I’ll give you a couple of tips on where to put the bulky structure if you have a country house or dacha:

• First, if you remove the glass, the wood can be cut and stored in a woodpile. Agree that in winter dry firewood for heating the stove will be useful;
• Secondly, you can dismantle the doors and the rest of the fittings, and make a sandbox for children from the frame. Everything is very simple, you just need to lay the frame on flat ground, paint it, and then pour dry seeded sand inside;
• Thirdly, if desired, you can assemble a greenhouse or a greenhouse from several unnecessary windows. Agree that your own greenhouse is almost free - this is a serious argument in favor of not throwing away supposedly unnecessary windows;

Old double glazing not only retains heat well, but also allows sunlight to pass through perfectly. As a result, the air temperature in the greenhouse during the daytime will be several degrees above zero;

• Fourth, old windows can be installed in old log house, where they will still serve faithfully for many years. For these purposes in log wall an opening of the appropriate size is cut. A frame is installed in the opening using floating timber technology, and a frame dismantled from a city apartment is installed into this frame;

The only problem with reinstalling old windows is the need to neat installation. That is, when dismantling, we do not cut the frame into pieces, but carefully break it out in order to reassemble it later.

• Fifthly, unnecessary glazing from a city apartment can be useful for arranging an open veranda at your dacha or for arranging an open balcony.

Don’t know how to glaze a balcony from old windows yourself? Yes, actually there is nothing complicated about it. It is enough to assemble from a timber of the appropriate size wooden frame and you can already attach frames to it. But it is important to understand that the sheathing and fastening of the frame to the timber must be as strong as possible.

By the way, if the heat-saving qualities of glazing a balcony are not fundamentally important, you can refuse double sashes. The use of single sashes when glazing a balcony allows you to reduce the weight of the structure and reduce the load on the load-bearing structure. As a result, exploitation installed windows will be more secure.

Conclusion

Now you know what you can do from old window frames so as not to throw them away. However, before using wooden windows for other purposes than their intended purpose, I recommend thinking about restoring them, especially since it is so simple.

So, what could I tell you, if I forgot anything, ask in the comments, I will definitely answer. Also, don't forget to watch the video in this article.

Gazebo made from window frames in the photo

This version of the kitchen gazebo with an eight-pitched roof has a frame structure and an octagonal shape in plan. The openings between the pillars of this building are planned to be covered with glazed window frames (from mosquitoes, wind, rain, etc.).

Since it is now common practice to replace old windows with plastic ones, such window frames can be found at garbage disposals in any area of ​​any city, which means they will cost nothing and for construction you will only need to spend money on materials for the foundation, frame and roof.

An octagonal-shaped gazebo is a traditional Swedish house, only in in this case Most of the walls will be made in the form of windows.

The construction of the gazebo-kitchen occurs in stages and in a certain order.

STEP #1
STEP #2

STEP #3
STEP #4

STEP #5
STEP #6

STEP #7
STEP #8

An octagonal gazebo made of glazed window frames can be placed closer to the center of the site, then from all the windows of the building it will be possible to admire the landscape and watch what is happening around. This will be a kind of command post. At the same time, being outside, you can monitor what is happening inside the gazebo, for example, whether anything on the stove has caught fire.

On a note!

Inside, you can arrange such a gazebo according to your taste and discretion. A kitchen unit can easily fit here - gas or electric stove, homemade cabinets for dishes and kitchen utensils, a refrigerator and, of course, a sink. In another part, closer to the center, you can place a large dining table with a bench, chairs or armchairs. If desired, you can install a TV, a stereo system, or hang a hammock here. You can use a regular metal grill by installing it next to the gazebo.

The foundation for a gazebo made from window frames with your own hands must be made from eight single concrete blocks, which are laid on the ground at the corners of the gazebo. Under each block, you need to dig a hole with a spade bayonet, the width and length of which is approximately three times the size of the block. Then you need to pour sand into the bottom of the pits and compact it thoroughly to form a layer 5-10 cm thick. Concrete blocks are placed in the prepared pits and leveled.

Erection of walls - using a frame for a gazebo with your own hands imposes restrictions on the width and height of the structure.

On top of the foundation blocks, you need to lay waterproofing from roofing felt folded in half, and then the bottom trim is made from timber with a cross-section of 100 x 150 mm. The corner joints of the beams can be assembled by cutting into half a tree, placing them exactly above foundation blocks. The crossbars must be cut into the longitudinal beams of the strapping, also halfway through the tree. The joints of the beams can be strengthened with nails 120 mm long, driving two nails into each joint.

Next, in the corners of the assembled harness you need to install racks made of timber with a cross-section of 100 x 150 mm. The distance between adjacent pairs of racks should be determined by the width of the window frames and the door (or doors). Each rack must be set strictly vertically along a plumb line, secured with temporary struts, and then attached below to the frame of beams with two nails, hammering them in on both sides perpendicular to one another.

Then, at a height of about 50 cm from the trim beams, you need to cut the window sill boards between the posts strictly vertically, without distortions, after which you can remove the temporary struts and replace them with permanent ones. Then you should check the height of all eight racks, and if everything is correct, you can mount them on them top harness from the same timber with a cross section of 100 X 150 mm, which should exactly repeat the dimensions of the lower one. It should be attached to the posts using nails 200 mm long.

Look at the framed gazebos in the photo, which shows the finished structures:

Gazebo made from old frames
Gazebo made of frames

Gazebo for a summer residence
DIY gazebo

For the roof, you must first install a roof truss. To do this, you need to temporarily tie the beams of the upper trim located opposite each other crosswise with two pairs of tie boards. This structure will simultaneously serve as a guide, supporting central pillar in a vertical position, and a construction bridge for “high-rise” work. Also for convenience further work in the center of the gazebo you need to install a temporary auxiliary vertical stand. At the bottom, near the floor, it can be wedged, and at the top, an octagonal locking insert can be attached to it. In order for the auxiliary rack to be held stably in a strictly vertical position, you need to additionally nail it with two nails to the tie boards nailed to the beams of the upper frame.

Edged boards with a cross section of 50 x 100 mm will be used for the rafters. The upper end of each rafter should rest on the central octagonal liner, and the lower end on the beam of the upper trim, on which grooves must be selected in advance corresponding to the thickness and angle of inclination of the rafters. Rafters should be installed in pairs on two opposite sides, nailing them to the liner and beam. To prevent the nails from “moving” to the side when driving, you must first drill guide holes in the rafters. It is recommended to slightly trim the sides of the upper ends of the rafters so that they fit together better.

Next is done continuous lathing roofs made of clapboard boards, which must be laid with the front (planed) side down. When laying, the ends of each flooring board must be nailed to the rafters with two nails to ensure the rigidity of the roof structure and to prevent the appearance of a bursting force on the top band and the wall. In this case, the roof will rest on the walls of the building like a rigid “cone”.

The roof of the gazebo is made of galvanized steel sheets. Pre-painted sheets of metal must be marked, blanks of the required shape and size must be cut out of them, and attached one by one to the sheathing using roofing screws with rubber washers. To protect the gazebo from possible leaks, the joints of the roofing sheets from above must be closed with corners cut and curved from the same sheet metal.

Don’t worry about where to dispose of old wooden or plastic windows after renovation. Using this instruction and useful tips from summer residents, build a greenhouse or a full-fledged greenhouse from window frames with your own hands - and early vegetables You’ll pamper yourself and be known as a master among your neighbors. Study in detail how to make a structure reliable and airtight so that it solves the assigned tasks, withstands bad weather and lasts on the site for several seasons.

Neat greenhouse made from window frames

Pros and cons of a greenhouse made from old window frames

Does the prospect of getting a practically free greenhouse warm your soul? Don’t rush to rub your hands in anticipation of future profits from greenhouse farming - a cheap greenhouse has both advantages and disadvantages. For example, you can’t make such a greenhouse yourself in no time, and both in person and in the photo the buildings are significantly inferior in terms of appearance polycarbonate. You will understand whether this solution is right for you when you study other nuances.

Mini-greenhouse from an old window

Features of frame greenhouses

A greenhouse made from window frames, in addition to cost, has other advantages:

• windows, if they have retained their integrity, retain heat well;
• if you have glass, you don’t need to spend money on covering material;
• the structure turns out to be quite light, and the soil quickly warms up;
• the window frames already have vents, which means the ventilation issue has been resolved;
• a leaky element can always be replaced with a similar one.

Greenhouse from a second-hand window

On the other hand, a self-made greenhouse made from window frames even in the photo looks, to put it mildly, unpresentable. If you approach the matter responsibly, its installation will take at least a week. Therefore, those who appreciate own time worth its weight in gold or worried about landscape design of their own plot, they do not undertake the construction of a frame greenhouse.

Disadvantages should also include a large number of joints and connections between frames that are often of different sizes. They all need to be sealed with sealant so that precious heat does not leak out into the cracks. Such a greenhouse will have to be greased, tinted, and repaired throughout its entire service life. Besides:

• a greenhouse assembled from “pieces” is difficult to dismantle and move to another place;
• glass breaks easily and when working close to the walls of the greenhouse, you need to be careful;
• the greenhouse turns out to be heavy - you can’t do without a foundation.

Window frames shade the greenhouse by 30%

We must not forget that under glass, which blocks ultraviolet B and C, which is beneficial for plants, crops grow more slowly than under a light-transmitting film. Is it worth abandoning the idea completely because of these features? Of course not, they just need to be taken into account in the design homemade greenhouse and take a responsible approach to choosing a place for it.

Selection of location and design

Before you make a greenhouse from window frames, decide where it will be located. The question is far from idle: not only its size and shape, but also the internal microclimate and productivity directly depend on the location of the structure. Of course, these recommendations are not feasible for every site, but if possible, try to follow them at least partially:

• so that the greenhouse is well lit and protected from northern winds, install it in front of tall buildings or plantings;
• erect the structure on the southeast, southwest or south side of the site;
• it’s good if there is a hill in this place, otherwise you will have to build a drainage layer;
• analyze the condition of the soil in the selected plot - if the soil is clayey, cover it with gravel and fill it with black soil;
• place the greenhouse for tomatoes as far as possible from the potato plantation - this is important for preventing the spread of late blight;
• Please note that the most successful direction of the roof ridge is considered to be south-northern - this is how the cultivated crops receive maximum amount sun rays from the east and south.

Location of the greenhouse on the site

If you want to extend the agricultural season, also consider the communications system - you will need to provide heating, lighting and watering. To make it easier to do all this with your own hands, it is important that the greenhouse made of window frames is located as close as possible to the energy source.

As for the shape of the greenhouse, choose it based on your goals:

• For a greenhouse nursery, a box-shaped structure tilted to one side is suitable. It is also convenient to organize temporary storage of root crops in the fall.
• It is convenient to grow greens and grown seedlings in a gable mini-greenhouse.
• To get a harvest of cucumbers or tomatoes, you need a greenhouse-house at least 1.8 m high with doors and vents.

The simplest greenhouse nursery

DIY construction stages

To figure out how to build a small but functional greenhouse from old window frames, study step-by-step master class, provided by an experienced vegetable grower, and a video describing the process. First, determine the dimensions based on the number of frames, and then draw a sketch of the greenhouse on a scale and decide on the type of foundation.

Which is better - a foundation or a foundation?

In order to simplify and reduce the cost of construction as much as possible, some summer residents are planning to do without a foundation and simply install the greenhouse on the ground. IN professional construction There is the concept of a foundation - a mass of soil capable of absorbing the load from a structure without deformation. But for this it is strengthened in various ways:

• pneumatic rammer;
• silicatization (introducing a solution of liquid glass into the soil layer);
• cementation (injection of liquid cement mortar).

It is unrealistic and unprofitable to create a foundation strong enough for a heavy greenhouse on your own and without equipment. Therefore, based on your own considerations and material capabilities, you need to choose the material for the foundation. The following options are usually considered:

• wooden beam;
• bricks or blocks;
• reinforced concrete.

Shell block construction

The timber is quickly installed, but it also rots quickly. It can and should be impregnated with resin or wrapped in roofing felt, but these measures only briefly slow down the process. Base made of silicate or hollow brick it won’t last long, and well-burnt clinker is expensive. It will not be much cheaper to buy foundation blocks, since the technology requires high-quality insulation and insulation, and this will also cost a pretty penny.

The timber lasts for 3–4 years

Some craftsmen manage to adapt railway sleepers for greenhouses, car tires, iron pipes. But the most predictable and relatively cheap is considered to be a shallow concrete strip support - service life at the right approach exceeds tens of years. To understand how justified such a structure is for a homemade greenhouse made from old frames, study the installation technology.

Tire base

How to properly pour a concrete foundation

Determine the width of the foundation strip according to the type of soil: 20 cm (for loam) or 25 cm (for sandy soil). At the previously selected location, remove the platform and mark:

1. Select the location of the first corner and, using a plumb line, vertically install a peg or piece of reinforcement in its place.
2. Pull the string from it at right angles and at the required distance determine the second and third angles - also mark them with pegs.
3. From the second and third corners towards the fourth, pull the string and, having adjusted the corner, set the last mark.
4. Check the resulting rectangle along the diagonals: they should be equal.
5. In a similar way, mark inner circuit foundation.

Finished trench

Calculate the required height of the foundation from the ground as the difference between the height of the window frames and the height of the greenhouse being built along the floor beams. Mark the calculated size on the pegs and pull the string horizontally.

Now comes the turn of earthworks. According to the markings, dig a trench 30 cm deep. The walls should be vertical; if the soil falls, install temporary supports. Check the bottom with a level and, at the slightest slope, level it to the horizontal. Pour sand into the finished trench in layers, pouring and compacting each layer. The thickness of the pillow is 15 cm.

1. From edged boards and timber, assemble the formwork.
2. WITH outside install supports to prevent its deformation.
3. Attach reinforcing rods with a diameter of 8–12 mm to the walls of the formwork and tie them together with wire.
4. Mix cement grade 200 with sifted river sand in a ratio of 1:2 or 1:2.5 and dilute with water until it becomes liquid sour cream.
5. Fill the resulting solution with crushed stone - its quantity is the same as sand.
6. Mix the concrete and pour it into the formwork, compacting it in the process using improvised means, a hammer drill or a construction mixer.
7. Align upper layer with a rule or trowel and sprinkle it with concrete sifted through a sieve.

Pouring concrete

The resulting foundation can subsequently be used for more than one greenhouse.

Ready base

Installation of windows and frames

Dismantled windows in front reuse should be prepared. Check their condition - dried wood cannot be restored and is not suitable for a greenhouse. Carefully remove old hinges, nails, latches from the frames - anything that is outdated or may interfere with installation. To avoid damaging the glass, temporarily remove:

1. Remove the glazing beads from the window frame, pull out all the glass, marking them according to each opening.
2. Wash glass panels with warm soapy water.
3. Replace cracked glass and add new glass to replace missing glass.
4. Blowtorch or use a paint remover to remove the layer of old coating.
5. If necessary, fill the uneven areas.
6. Apply several layers of antiseptic and let the surface dry.
7. Paint the frames exterior paint light color.

Refurbished window frame

The most labor-intensive operation in building a greenhouse from old window frames with your own hands is building the frame. It is optimal if, after replacing windows with metal-plastic double-glazed windows, frames remain same size. In this case, on concrete foundation lay a sheet of roofing material, and on it - a beam of the lower trim. Then, one by one, use dowels to screw the frames to the foundation and tie them with posts and lintels for rigidity.

Plank frame diagram

When installing frames of different sizes with frame structure you'll have to tinker a little more:

1. Place on the corners of the foundation vertical pillars the same height, equal to the height of the largest frame and the width of the bottom trim beam.
2. Rigidly install the top trim around the entire perimeter.
3. Attach the first frame to it with three dowels, and leave its lower edge free.
4. Install the second frame in the same way, but on the other side.
5. Place the bottom beam into the gap between the frames and the foundation and attach it to the foundation and pillars.
6. Cover the remaining uncovered space with a board according to its size - due to their location at the bottom, such inserts will not shade the greenhouse.

The holes are closed plastic film

Alternatively, the varying height of the frames can be compensated for by polycarbonate inserts, installing them in any location.

Wooden and plastic frames - pros and cons

The nuances of building a greenhouse from wooden windows, positive and not so good, are discussed above. But increasingly, it happens that pioneer homeowners who were once the first to replace wooden frames to metal-plastic double-glazed windows, we already have to change them too. This means that such material may also fall into your hands. Upon closer examination, metal-plastic in its new “role” has its advantages and disadvantages.

At first glance, the metal-plastic greenhouse is impeccable:

• the design looks modern;
• holds heat perfectly;
• equipped with ready-made windows;
• resistant to wind and snow;
• durable and environmentally friendly.

Factory greenhouse made of metal-plastic

After looking at the new windows of the house, someone will even want to invest a sum of money in a capital greenhouse made of metal-plastic frames. However, not everything is so rosy - the windows are still intended for other purposes and have not been tested in greenhouse conditions. Especially many questions arise regarding recovery:

• depressurized frames (one of common reasons replacements) are also unsuitable for greenhouses;
• During installation, you cannot pull the glass out of the frames - there is a high risk of damage;
• if the top frame and greenhouse roof are installed incorrectly, an uneven load is applied to the window frame, and the glass unit bursts;
• It is impossible to replace broken glass “on the knee” - you need specialists and equipment.

Drawing of a homemade greenhouse

The greenhouse itself turns out to be non-demountable and heavy - moving it to a new place with your own hands will be extremely problematic. If you have free plastic windows, then why not build a greenhouse out of them. But don't be tempted to buy specifically for this purpose: for the money you can find better specialized solutions.

If you decide to use double-glazed windows, remember: they are installed on the bottom frame simultaneously with the installation of the frame racks made of wooden beam or steel profile(the latter option is more reliable). During the process, plastic frames can be drilled with self-tapping screws; the main thing is to know where to do this so as not to damage the valuable material.

Video: where you can drill window plastic

Greenhouse made of frames with a polycarbonate roof

So, the task of how to make a greenhouse with your own hands from old window frames is almost solved. All that remains is to cover the structure and thereby protect the plantings from precipitation. There are three ways to do this:

1. Using the same frames as for the walls is only acceptable for greenhouse boxes, since placing a heavy structure with glass over someone’s head is unsafe.
2. Covering with film or spunbond is a simple and affordable solution. True, you will have to build a roof frame and remove the material for the winter.
3. Install polycarbonate sheets - if there are no stocks. This option requires material costs, but no hail is terrible for the greenhouse, and it can be used indefinitely.

Arched greenhouse under polycarbonate

Decide on the shape of the roof - will it be arched or gable. An arched one lets in more sunlight, covering it with film or polycarbonate is a pleasure, but you need to stock up metal profile, bent on a pipe bender. If you or someone you know does not have this device, switch to gable roof, especially since you almost never need to remove snow from it.

For the construction of a load-bearing roofing system do it yourself you will need:

• ridge beam 5x5 cm the same length as the constructed greenhouse;
• timber 15x5 for rafters;
• fasteners and Consumables;
• tools - hammer, saw, electric drill, tape measure, axe, plumb line.

Gable greenhouse

The work algorithm looks like this:

1. Treat lumber for roofing with impregnation. Dry.
2. Based on the dimensions of the greenhouse and the pitch between the rafters (60–80 cm), calculate required quantity roof trusses. The roof inclination angle is 25–30 degrees.
3. According to the dimensions, make the first truss from two rafter legs and lower screed. Make all the other trusses using the template.
4. Install the trusses one by one on the top frame frame and secure them firmly on both sides with corners and self-tapping screws.

Wooden truss

Now cut the polycarbonate and, having correctly oriented the canvases (with the stiffening ribs vertically and the side protected from UV rays up), secure them to rafter system.

Fastening the rafters

Video: building a greenhouse with your own hands

Finally, ensure the tightness of the greenhouse you built yourself:

1. Install window glass and secure them with glazing beads (if the old ones are no good, you can buy new ones or replace them with colorless sealant).
2. Hang doors - use balcony doors, just cut them to their height first.
3. Seal large holes with polycarbonate residue, and small cracks with polyurethane foam.
4. Check how the windows close and open, install hinges and hooks to secure them.

Perhaps some points remain unclear - look at the selection of videos to see how homemade summer residents get out of various situations. If you make a greenhouse from window frames, as shown in the instructions, it will serve faithfully long years.

Video 1: Construction of a greenhouse from different frames

Video 2: Homemade greenhouse on a brick base

Video 3: Greenhouse under polycarbonate

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