Street electrical panel. Distribution panel for machines and electric meter

An electrical panel in a private house, country house, or apartment performs a dual function: it provides input and distribution of electricity and creates safe conditions operation. If you want to understand the wrong simple question, you can assemble the electrical panel yourself. The input machine and the meter must be installed by representatives of the electricity supply organization, but then, after the meter, you can assemble the circuit yourself (although they do not like to lose money). True, before putting the house into operation, you will need to invite them so that they are present during the start-up, check everything and measure the ground loop. All of these are paid services, but they cost much less than a complete panel assembly. If you do everything correctly and according to the standards, it will turn out even better on your own: after all, you are doing it for yourself.

What should be in the shield

Both in an apartment and in a private house there are several options for the layout of the shield. This mainly concerns the installation location of the input machine and the counter. In a private house, the meter can be placed on a pole, and the machine can be placed on the wall of the house, almost under the roof. Sometimes a meter is installed in a house, but this is if it was built a couple of decades ago. IN Lately Metering devices are installed in the house extremely rarely, although there are no regulations or instructions on this matter. If the meter is located indoors, it can be placed in a panel; then when choosing a panel model, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the meter.

In some apartment buildings The meters are located in boxes on the staircases. In this case, the cabinet is needed only for RCDs and automatic machines. In other houses it is located in the apartment. When upgrading the electrical network, you will have to buy a cabinet so that the meter can fit in there, too, or buy a separate box for the meter with an input machine.

Safety is very important when designing a power supply. First of all, it is provided for people: with the help of an RCD - a residual current device (number 3 in the photo), which is installed immediately after the meter. This device is triggered if the leakage current exceeds a threshold value (there is a short circuit to ground or someone sticks their fingers into the socket). This device breaks the circuit, minimizing the possibility of electric shock. From the RCD, the phase is supplied to the inputs of the machines, which are also triggered when the load is exceeded or when there is a short circuit in the circuit, but each in its own section.

Secondly, it is necessary to ensure the normal operation of household appliances and electrical appliances. Modern complex technology is controlled by microprocessors. Im for normal operation A stable supply is required. Having observed the voltage in our network for some time, it cannot be called stable: it varies from 150-160 V to 280 V. Imported equipment cannot withstand such a variation. Therefore, it is better to turn on at least some groups of machines that supply power to complex equipment through. Yes, it costs a lot. But during voltage surges, the control boards are the first to “fly”. They are not repaired here, but simply replaced. The cost of such a replacement is about half the cost of the device (more or less depends on the type of device). It's hardly cheaper. When assembling the electrical panel with your own hands, or just planning it for now, remember this.

One example of a panel layout for a small circuit - for 6 machines

The stabilizer is installed on one or several groups and is turned on after the RCD and before the group circuit breakers. Since this is a rather large device, it won’t be possible to install it in a panel, but you can install it next to it.

Also, two buses are installed in the panel: grounding and grounding. All grounding wires from instruments and devices are connected to the grounding bus. The wire comes to the “zero” bus from the RCD and is fed to the corresponding inputs of the machines. Zero is usually designated by the letter N; when wiring, it is customary to use a blue wire. For grounding - white or yellow-green, the phase is carried out with a red or brown wire.

At self-assembly electrical panel, you will need to purchase the cabinet itself, as well as the rails (called DIN rails or DIN rails) on which the circuit breakers, RCDs and switches are mounted. When installing the slats, check with a level that they are horizontal: there will be no problems with fastening the machines.

All machines must be connected to each other. This can be done using conductors - connecting their inputs in series, or using a ready-made connecting comb. A comb is more reliable, although it costs more, but if you take into account the time that you will spend connecting all the machines, it is unlikely that a few tens of rubles are of such fundamental importance.

Scheme for several groups

Power supply schemes are not always simple: groups of consumers are divided into floors, outbuildings, lighting for the garage, basement, yard and local area. At large quantities consumers, in addition to the general RCD after the meter, install the same devices, only of lower power - for each group. Separately, with the obligatory installation of a personal protective device, the power supply for the bathroom is removed: this is one of the most dangerous premises in the house and apartment.

It is very advisable to install protective devices on each of the inputs that go to powerful household appliances (more than 2.5 kW, and even a hair dryer can have such power). In combination with a stabilizer they will create normal conditions for the operation of electronics.

Not the best either complex circuit, but with a higher degree of protection - more RCDs

In general, when designing the exact design, you will have to find a compromise: make the system safe without spending too much money. It is better to buy equipment from trusted companies, but it costs a lot. But power grids are not an area where you can save money.

Types and sizes of electrical panels

We will talk about cabinets/drawers for installing automatic machines and other electrical equipment, and their varieties. According to the type of installation, electrical panels are for outdoor installation and for internal. The box for outdoor installation is attached to the wall with dowels. If the walls are flammable, an insulating material that does not conduct current is placed underneath. When mounted, the external electrical panel protrudes above the wall surface by about 12-18 cm. This must be taken into account when choosing its installation location: for ease of maintenance, the panel is mounted so that all its parts are approximately at eye level. This is convenient when working, but can pose a risk of injury (sharp corners) if the location for the cabinet is poorly chosen. The best option- behind the door or closer to the corner: so that there is no possibility of hitting your head.

Shield for hidden installation implies the presence of a niche: it is installed and walled up. The door is flush with the wall surface; it may protrude a few millimeters, depending on the installation and design of the particular cabinet.

The housings are metal, painted powder paint, there are plastic ones. Doors - solid or with inserts from transparent plastic. Various sizes - elongated, wide, square. In principle, for any niche or conditions you can find suitable option. One piece of advice: if possible, choose a larger cabinet: it is easier to work in it, this is especially important if you are assembling an electrical panel with your own hands for the first time.

When choosing a building, they often operate on such a concept as the number of seats. This refers to how many single-pole circuit breakers (12 mm thick) can be installed in a given housing. You have a diagram with all the devices listed on it. You count them taking into account the fact that bipolar ones have double width, add about 20% for the development of the network (suddenly you buy another device and there is nowhere to connect, or during installation you decide to make two from one group, etc.). And for such a number of “seating” places, look for a shield with a suitable geometry.

Installation and connection of elements

All modern automatic devices and RCDs have a unified mounting for a standard mounting rail (DIN rail). On the back they have a plastic stop that snaps onto the bar. Place the device on the rail, hooking it with the recess on the back wall, and press the lower part with your finger. Once clicked, the item is installed. All that remains is to connect it. They do it according to the scheme. The corresponding wires are inserted into the terminals and the contact is pressed with a screwdriver, tightening the screw. There is no need to tighten it too much - you can squeeze the wire.

They operate with the power off, all switches are turned to the “off” position. Try do not handle wires with both hands. Having connected several elements, turn on the power (input switch), then turn on the installed elements one by one, checking them for the absence of a short circuit (short circuit).

The phase from the input is supplied to the input circuit breaker, from its output it goes to the corresponding input of the RCD (place the jumper with copper). In some circuits, the neutral wire from the water is supplied directly to the corresponding input of the RCD, and from its output it goes to the bus. The phase wire from the output of the protective device is connected to the connecting comb of the machines.

IN modern schemes the input machine is installed two-pole: he must simultaneously disconnect both wires (phase and neutral) in order to completely de-energize the network in the event of a malfunction: this is safer and these are the latest electrical safety requirements. Then the circuit diagram for switching on the RCD looks like in the photo below.

To learn how to install an RCD on a DIN rail, watch the video.

After the required number of devices are installed on the mounting rail, their inputs are connected. As they said earlier, this can be done with wire jumpers or a special connecting comb. See the photo for what the wire connections look like.

There are two ways to make jumpers:

• Cut the conductors into the required sections, expose their edges and bend them in an arc. Insert two conductors into one terminal, then tighten.
• Take a long enough conductor and strip off 1-1.5 cm of insulation every 4-5 cm. Take pliers and bend the exposed conductors so that you get interconnected arcs. Insert these exposed areas into the appropriate sockets and tighten.

They do this, but electricians say the quality of the connection is poor. It is safer to use special tires. Under them on the case there are special connectors (narrow slots, closer to the front edge), into which bus contacts are inserted. These tires are sold by the meter and cut into pieces of the required length using ordinary wire cutters. Having inserted it and installed the supply conductor in the first of the machines, tighten the contacts on all connected devices. Watch the video on how to connect machines in a panel using a bus.

A phase wire is connected to the output of the machines, which goes to the load: to household appliances, to sockets, switches, etc. Actually, the assembly of the shield is completed.

Selection of machines for a house or apartment panel

There are three types of devices used in an electrical panel:

• Machine. Turns the power off and on manually, and also triggers (breaks the circuit) in the event of a short circuit in the circuit.
• RCD(residual current device). It controls the leakage current that occurs when the insulation breaks down or if someone touches the wires. If one of these situations occurs, the circuit is broken.
• Diff. machine(). This is a device that combines two in one housing: it monitors both the presence of short circuit and leakage current.

Differential automatic devices are usually installed instead of a combination - RCD + automatic. This saves space in the panel - it requires one less module. Sometimes this is important: for example, you need to turn on another power line, but there is no space for installation, just like there is no free machine.

In general, two devices are often installed. Firstly, it is cheaper (differential circuit breakers are more expensive), secondly, when one of the protective devices trips, you know exactly what happened and what to look for: a short circuit (if the circuit breaker was turned off) or a leak and possible overcurrent (triggered RCD). You will not find this out when the automatic machine is triggered. Unless you install a special model that has a flag indicating what malfunction the device was triggered by.

Automatic circuit breakers

Automatic circuit breakers selected by current, which is necessary for consumers of this group. It is calculated simply. Fold maximum power all simultaneously connected devices in a group, divide by the network voltage - 220 V, you get the required current power. Take the device rating a little higher, otherwise when all loads are turned on, it will turn off due to overload.

For example, adding up the power of all devices in a group, we got a total value of 6.5 kW (6500 W). Divide by 220 V, we get 6500 W / 220 V = 29.54 A.

The current ratings of the circuit breakers can be as follows: (in A) 6, 10, 16, 20, 25, 32, 40, 50, 63. The closest larger one to the given value is 32 A. This is what we are looking for.

Types and types of RCD

RCDs have two types of action: electronic and electronic-mechanical. The difference in price for a device with the same parameters is large - electronic-mechanical ones are more expensive. But you need to purchase them for a shield in your house or apartment. There is only one reason: they are more reliable, since they operate regardless of the presence of power, while electronic ones require power to operate.

For example, the situation is this: you are repairing wiring, for example, a socket, and for this purpose you have de-energized the network - turned off the input circuit breaker. In the process, the insulation was damaged somewhere. If an electro-mechanical RCD is installed, it will operate even in the absence of power. You will realize that you did something wrong and will look for the reason. Electronic equipment is inoperative without power, and if you turn on a network with damaged insulation, you may have problems.

To understand which device is in front of you, it is enough to have a small battery and a couple of wires on hand. Battery power is supplied to any pair of RCD contacts. The electro-mechanical one will work, but the electronic one will not. More details about this in the video.

• type AC - alternating sinusoidal current;
• type A - alternating current + pulsating direct current;
• type B - alternating + pulsating direct + rectified current.

It turns out that type B gives the most complete protection, but these devices are very expensive. For a house or apartment panel it is quite enough, type A, but not AC, which are mostly sold because they are cheaper.

Except type RCD, it is selected according to current. Moreover, according to two parameters: nominal and leakage. A nominal one is one that can pass through the contacts without destroying (melting) them. The rated current of the RCD is taken one step higher than the rated current of the machine installed in pair with it. If a machine is needed for 25 A, then take an RCD for 40 A.

In terms of leakage current, everything is even simpler: only two ratings are installed in electrical distribution boards for apartments and houses - 10 mA and 30 mA. 10 mA is placed on a line with one device, for example, on a gas boiler, washing machine etc. as well as in rooms where a high degree of protection is necessary: ​​in a children's room or bathroom. Accordingly, a 30 milliamp RCD is installed in lines that include several consumers (devices) - on sockets in the kitchen and rooms. Such protection is rarely installed on lighting lines: there is no need, except for street lighting or in a garage.

RCDs also have different response delay times. They are of two types:

• S - selective - triggered through certain time after the leakage current appears (quite a long period of time). They are usually placed at the entrance. Then, if an emergency occurs, the device on the damaged line is first turned off. If the leakage current remains, then the “senior” selective RCD will operate - usually this is the one located at the input.
• J - also triggers with a delay (protection against random currents), but with a much shorter delay. This type of RCD is placed in groups.

Differential automatics there are the same types How RCD and are chosen in exactly the same way. Only when determining power by current do you immediately consider the load and determine the rating.

For a few explanations on installing a built-in cabinet for a panel and the connection procedure, see the video from a practitioner and generalist.

One important detail, which is important for safety. There is a “test” button on the RCD or differential circuit breaker. When it is pressed, a leakage current is artificially created and the device must operate - the switch goes to the “off” position and the line is de-energized. This is how functionality is checked. This must be done at least once a month to be sure of the reliability of the protection. Check all the RCDs in the circuit one by one. It is important.

This is probably all the information you need to assemble an electrical panel with your own hands. You may still need to learn more about how to divide the workload into groups, about this.

Owners of private households sooner or later have to take their utility metering devices outside. Service organizations have a number of requirements for this event. One of them is the corresponding clause of the PUE, according to which the shield is installed on the facades of houses, supports, pillars, fences, etc.

We will tell you how to place and secure an outdoor box for an electric meter in accordance with building regulations. The article we have proposed describes in detail the selection criteria and rules for installing a box for a flow meter and other equipment. Are given useful recommendations for assembling the shield and carrying out installation.

The box must perform three functions. The first is to ensure the safety of people during maintenance and operation of the electrical network. The box must be grounded.

The second is to create optimal conditions for devices located inside. The structure must be well protected from atmospheric influences: moisture, sunlight, wind.

Boxes for electric meters are made of metal or plastic. The latter are considered safer to use because they prevent electric shock to the user.

The third is to provide access to the metering device to representatives of the service organization. This condition is specified in contracts with consumers, although the PUE does not contain a direct requirement to install meters on the street.

Types of boxes by type of design

Foreign and domestic producers They offer boxes of different sizes and capacity. The option is selected depending on the parameters of the equipment that is planned to be placed in the box.

The dimensions of the shield are also selected for the type of meter. Single-phase metering devices are smaller in size than three-phase ones, sometimes two times

There are also certain markings that indicate the type and purpose of the box. Example:

• control room- ordinary and simplest;
• ShchVR- a box built into the wall;
• ShchRN- distribution and hanging box.

If it is just a metering panel, it usually contains only a meter, an input machine, grounding and neutral buses. , and are also installed in the “home” box. But you can combine all this in one box.

The design of the shield can be:

• floor;
• built-in;
• invoice or mounted;
• hidden or open;
• whole or collapsible.

What kind of equipment, in what quantity and with what parameters should be installed in the box - all these points are prescribed in the project. If there is no such document, you need advice from relevant specialists.

Basic criteria for choosing a box

The main task of the consumer is to find a durable, practical box that will withstand long-term service in street conditions. The box should be convenient for installation and operation.

What is important about the design itself? The presence of holes of the appropriate diameter for the wires that come from the support and lead out to the building. It is desirable that these elements have sealing rubber bands and plastic couplings.

A convenient detail is the window. It eliminates the need to open the shield to take readings and reduces the frequency of contact of the internal contents with air and moisture. Pay attention to the sealing lugs.

The IP20 index means that the box is protected from dust particles larger than 12.5 mm, but is vulnerable to moisture. IP65 guarantees complete isolation from these negative factors. The higher the number, the more expensive the design. The optimal option is with a score of 54.

When choosing an electrical panel, you also need to look at the thickness of its walls, operating temperature range, number of doors, and type of lock. The box can be locked with one individual key or equipped with several identical ones.

Box installation requirements

The metering device and additional equipment may only be installed in a sufficiently rigid structure. It must be well insulated from moisture and other negative atmospheric phenomena.

Meters with significant temperature changes may give errors in readings, so it is recommended to insulate the box with special caps or heating elements. This will also extend the life of the devices.

Main points PUE-7:

1. The distance between the floor and the box with the meter terminals should be in the range of 0.8-1.7 m. The deviation of the first indicator is allowed up to 0.4 m.
2. If the location is accessible to unauthorized persons, the box must be equipped with a secure lock and viewing window.
3. The design and dimensions of the cabinet must provide easy access to all elements of the installation and the ability to replace devices, if necessary.
4. During installation, the ends of the wires from 12 cm must be left near the meter. A piece of the neutral wire at a final length of 10 cm must have a distinctive color.
5. Grounding with copper protective conductors is mandatory.
6. Electrical wiring must not have any solders.
7. Verification periods: for three-phase meters- 1 year, for single-phase - 2 years.

In addition to the requirements for the meters and boxes themselves, the rules also apply to cables, wires, and fastenings. For a multi-core cable, it is mandatory to use an NShVI (tip). When attaching cable ends to equipment, sealed glands (glands) are also needed.

One of the options for arranging an electrical panel in which a metering device is installed, an input machine. Layout of devices and their specifications selected depending on the parameters of a specific electrical network

DIY wardrobe

If you have experience and desire, you can arrange a cabinet for an electric meter yourself. You will need to buy the design itself, arm yourself necessary tools and carry out in accordance with the specifics of the home electrical network.

If you come across a cabinet of the required dimensions, but it lacks a window, lugs for seals or some holes, it is permissible to add these elements. But the work must be carried out in accordance with safety regulations and the requirements of regulatory organizations.

All necessary equipment is mounted on DIN rails. Many models of metering devices come with parts that may be useful during installation (stickers, caps, fasteners). The main task is to assemble the devices and connect them correctly with each other.

Models of external meters

If you are buying a new meter and not removing the existing one from the premises, you need a device suitable for use in outdoor conditions.

Please note the following points:

• Induction models are much more sensitive to temperature changes than electronic ones.
• DIN rail is preferable as a mounting method.
• Go to the website of the electricity sales organization and see which models are allowed for installation in Russia.
• For a multi-tariff payment system, choose a device that can take into account more than three tariffs.

Brand awareness and availability service centers matters too. A trusted manufacturer means quality, maintainability, and loyalty of inspection organizations.

Among the commercially available domestic brands, we can consider the following: INCOTEX, Taipit, Energomera, EKF. Particularly popular is the model “Mercury” 230 AM-03. It has a single tariff and is capable of giving accurate readings at temperatures ranging from -40 to +55 degrees.

Of the foreign manufacturers that have proven themselves well: Swedish-Swiss ABB, French Schneider Electric, Turkish Legrand. But European brands often have operating temperature ranges that do not correspond to Russian realities.

It is advisable to consult with specialists from the service organization in your region. They usually have a list of devices that have already proven themselves the best side during operation.

Automatic and heater

An automatic switch is installed in the box before the meter. Its parameters must be calculated from the total power of all consumers - electrical appliances installed or planned in the house and on the street/garage and other domestic buildings.

If, for example, the total power is 25 kW, then a 63 A automatic machine is optimally suitable for this value. In addition to the input one, you need an outgoing line automatic machine, protective for the heater and modem (if any). Using the latter, the readings are automatically transmitted to the processing center. But such a scheme cannot do without a heater.

The heater for the electrical panel can be turned on and off manually or automatically. It is needed to maintain optimal temperature in cold weather - electrical appliances need heat to work without errors

Heaters for electrical panels are made of aluminum, which is coated with non-flammable thermoplastics.

The main functions of the element are to prevent the appearance of condensation, which prevents corrosive changes in current-carrying busbars and contacts and protects devices from high humidity.

Transfer input device and SPD

If the electrical installation includes an autonomous power source, a backup device must be installed after the meter. This device is needed to manually switch consumers from the external network to the generator and back.

The reserve input device prevents the simultaneous use of two different sources power supply (external network and generator), which is its task

To protect the installation from lightning strikes, high-voltage surges and fires from these impacts, an SPD (surge protection device) is added to the panel. It is placed after the input circuit breaker and through a separate fuse. An SPD is required if entry into the building is carried out via an airway.

Additionally, a cross-module can be installed in the panel to distribute electricity among different groups of consumers. Sometimes a differential machine is also added to the box.

The socket is one of the optional elements. But if construction is just underway on your site or you need a street connection for some equipment, you can’t do without it. And don’t forget about the zero rail, it combines all the zero cables and is used for connecting cores.

How is installation carried out?

All equipment must be connected by an electrician, provided he has the necessary equipment. similar works documents. The owner of the power line has such specialists. Inviting someone else or doing everything yourself is not practical.

Unqualified craftsmen may not compare the technical characteristics of the input equipment with the actual loads on the network, “forget” about electric shock protection devices, or even make gross mistakes in the sequence of their connection. Therefore, it is highly desirable to know how installation is carried out.

First, an input device is equipped - this is the cabinet itself, where there are mechanisms for protecting and connecting incoming cables to outgoing ones. It’s good if the pipe with the cable goes directly into the box itself. Let's consider the connection process using the example of a three-phase network.

The figure shows how three phase conductors (L1, L2, L3) are connected to the input contacts of the switch. The latter will cut off the entire network if necessary. In the figure also: N – zero; PE – ground

There are many switches on sale; one three-pole circuit breaker will do, which can be moved outside the input device. One of such designs is YaBPVU-100. This is an iron box with break contacts and 100 A fuse links.

The most important element of the input device is the grounding bus, to which repeated grounding with a neutral incoming conductor is connected. It splits the PEN conductor into a ground wire and an outgoing neutral. Then the cable from the box goes to the house, where its own panel is installed.

Zero splitting can also occur in the input device itself. In this case, the panel will be called an input distribution panel.

If you intend to disconnect street wiring, you can make a special outlet from the main panel. So devices designed for three-phase power supply will have individual machines, RCD.

The equipment is connected via power plug connectors or busbar boxes. Their degree of protection must be greater than or equal to IP45.

How to assemble and install a panel for a meter in an apartment is written in detail in, which we recommend that owners of urban housing familiarize themselves with.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Video #1. Assembling all box elements before installation:

Video #2. Assembly and installation of a three-phase meter instead of the old single-phase one, plus an estimate for such work:

Video #3. Analysis of the process of connecting electricity from a support (pole):

To install a box for an electric meter on the street, you need to select the box itself and its internal equipment so that the structure and devices can withstand outdoor conditions. You can assemble the panel yourself, but it is better to entrust all connections from the support and to the house to a specialist from a service organization.

At the entrance to the internal network of an apartment, house or cottage, an apartment distribution board (ASB) is almost always installed, in which the electric meter and circuit breakers(AV) and other equipment. Let's look at the functional purpose of this device, it design features, installation and connection rules.

Functional purpose

Any switching device must have appropriate protection that prevents contact with live elements and prevents foreign objects from entering them that could cause a short circuit. In addition, electrical devices are installed in the control panel that perform the following functions:

• accounting for electricity consumption;
• protection of the internal network from overload and short circuit;
• manual shutdown of any internal lines, for example, for repair work.

Design and performance features

The control panel is a plastic or metal box equipped with a door, inside which there are special seats for counter, AV and other equipment.

Designation:

• A – body made of non-flammable plastic or metal;
• B – lockable door;
• C – viewing window for taking readings of the electric meter by employees of the control service;
• D – mortise lock;
• E – mount for metering device;
• F – Din rails, which are a standard profile on which equipment is installed (AV, RCD, zero bus, etc.);
• G – panels that block access to live parts of installed electrical equipment.

There are two types of housing design - for external and internal installation.

The size of the box depends on the estimated number of installed modules.

Another factor influencing the design of the electrical panel is the protection class. Below is a table deciphering the accepted designation in accordance with certain conditions operation.

For example, we have a control panel with protection class IP65, according to the table above, this parameter indicates that with this design, dust and splashes of water are guaranteed not to penetrate into the structure (provided that the door is closed).

What to look for when choosing?

When choosing a control panel, you should be guided by the following factors:

1. Housing mounting method. If you plan to install on concrete wall panel house, then preference should be given to a box designed for wall-mounted. Otherwise, there is a high probability of integrity violation load-bearing wall. In addition, the installation process itself will be significantly more complicated.

Accordingly, when installing into a hollow wall, for example, a plasterboard partition, a built-in structure is selected.

1. Estimated number of units. Their number is determined characteristic features electrical wiring. As a rule, each line is connected to a separate protective device. It is recommended to leave a reserve of 20-30% in case of possible modernization of the internal network in order to connect any electrical appliances, such as an air conditioner or boiler. Replacing a control panel requires more effort than installing another AB module.
2. Selecting a protection class. It is determined depending on the operating conditions. If you plan to place it indoors, you can limit yourself to categories IP30-40. The external electrical panel requires a higher protection class (IP44-65).
3. Choice of material. Here you should also be guided by the location. If the panel is supposed to be installed inside a residential building, then, from an aesthetic point of view, a plastic case is preferable. Metal boxes are more suitable for a garage, workshop or other utility room.

The correct choice of switchboard is very important, since after its installation and connection it is not possible to quickly replace the electrical panel.

Since the shield relates to electrical equipment, it must be accompanied by a technical passport, which reflects the following information:

• model name;
• manufacturer information;
• technical specifications(permissible voltage, current and frequency) and technical specifications code;
• assigned protection class;
• date of manufacture.

The absence of a passport indicates that the product is most likely counterfeit, and its technical characteristics may not meet the standards. For example, non-fireproof plastic was used in production.

Choosing an installation location

In a residential area, it is advisable to set aside a single area to accommodate devices that provide connection to external telecommunication networks and a power source. The centralized location greatly simplifies the maintenance of these systems. As a rule, a place is allocated for such a zone inside the apartment near the entrance. IN panel houses There are special niches in the vestibule room.

If produced external installation, then it is necessary to place a base made of non-combustible material under the control panel box.

The lower edge of the box must be at a height of at least 100 cm from the floor level, while the upper part of the housing is limited to a height of 180 cm. This range can be reduced to 50 cm and 130 cm (respectively) if disabled people or elderly citizens live in the apartment.

• in a hazardous area classified as “0”, “I” and “II” (showers, bathrooms, etc.);
• in interior items and furniture (for example, a closet or wardrobe);
• above heating installations;
• near plumbing fixtures;
• above a gas or electric stove;
• outside the house (the restriction does not apply to metering panels);
• on loggias and balconies, including glazed ones;
• in the bathroom;
• on a flight of stairs;
• in any damp room;
• in the ventilation shaft.

Example of internal wiring

Let us give as an example the wiring diagram for the switchboard of a one-room apartment.

Designations:

1. Bipolar AB. Through it, a connection is made to an external single-phase source (220 volts).
2. Metering device.
3. Residual current device (in this case it is common to all three lines).
4. Zero distribution bus.
5. AB for lighting.
6. AB to sockets.
7. AB to a separate power line for the electric stove.
8. Ground bus.

The diagram shows the ratings of AB and RCD, and also shows the wire cross-section. Information on how to choose the right elements can be found on our website.

Selection of equipment for control panel

When selecting electrical devices and cables, you must be guided by two criteria:

1. Technical specifications.
2. Manufacturer reliability.

If to determine the technical parameters it is enough to carry out a few simple calculations, then in choosing a manufacturer not everything is so simple. Many inexpensive counterfeit products have appeared on the market. In addition, there are often outright fakes of well-known brands. Therefore, we recommend checking that electrical devices have the appropriate certificates. This is especially true for metering devices. Any electricity supply company will refuse to connect an uncertified meter, as well as a device that has not passed verification.

For all internal switching of the control panel, it is recommended to use solid-core PuV wire. It is allowed to use a multi-core analogue - PuGV, provided that the twisted wires at the ends are crimped with special lugs. The insulation of wires of these brands is made of non-flammable material and retains its properties in the temperature range from -40°C to 75°C. The service life of such wires is at least 15-20 years.

To supply phase to the input of the machines, you can use a special “comb” element; it is used as a distribution bus.

To conclude the topic, we will offer a few tips that will help you assemble a panel for an electric meter and machines without making serious mistakes:

• It is not allowed to run a wire or cable under the AB fastening profile;
• when tightening the clamps, the magnitude of the applied torque should be in the range of 2.5-3.5 Nm;
• if the box is made of metal, it must be grounded;
• the length of the supply of connected cables should be one and a half to two times greater than the height of the control panel, but not exceed 400 mm;
• All internal switching lines must be marked; this requirement also applies to installed electrical equipment. Below them, or on the door, there should be a table indicating the purpose of each element.

Electricity meters and circuit breakers are necessary attributes of the electrical network. These devices are mounted in special distribution panels, which are already installed in the entrances of houses. This is not provided for in private homes, however, the modern market allows you to choose any panel for an electric meter and machines of a suitable size and design. Appearance Such a box is now of no small importance, since it is increasingly being installed inside the house. In this article we will get acquainted with the features of such boxes, what types they come in, and what to look for when purchasing.

What is

The standard configuration of the electrical panel is as follows:

• Electric meter;
• Differential automatic machines;
• Introductory machine;
• Circuit breakers;
• 2 tires.

Now let's take a look at the built-in elements and what they are used for:

• DIN rail. It is a special device made of metal plates. It happens that the rail is too long, in which case it is cut using a hacksaw;
• Electricity meter. Necessary to take into account electricity consumption;
• Circuit breakers. This equipment protects electrical wiring. Before installing them, you need to know what the power of the devices that will be connected to the network is;
• Distribution bus. With its help, neutral wires are connected. They are closed and open;
• RCD. Residual current device ensuring safety from electric shock;
• Electrical wiring.

Where is the shield installed?

Before installing the box in the apartment, first of all, you need to draw up detailed plan, take into account how the rooms will be furnished, where the lamps and switches for them will be, different Appliances And so on. Together with electrical wires others are being laid engineering Communication, heating pipes, pipelines, alarms, internet and so on. The project should be developed in such a way as to optimize the routes of the described systems.

Important information! The electrical panel is the place where the cable from the energy supply company is connected to the meter in order to further distribute electricity to consumers.

When working on a project, you should determine the most appropriate place where the electrical panel will be installed. In the last century it was mounted directly on staircase landings, the method of installation directly in the apartment is now being popularized. This is not only convenient, but also ensures that unauthorized persons will not have access to the box.

As practice shows, the most suitable place is a corridor, close to front door and at face level to make it easier to track meter readings. When mounting the box in this way, a large length of the supply cable is not required.

To those who live in country house, you will need to take into account more subtleties: how to safely organize the input device into the building, how the branch from overhead line power transmission In addition, you will need to contact the energy supply organization to find out the details regarding their device.

Features of choosing a shield

When choosing a box, you need to understand that they are divided according to the following parameters:

• What material are they made of?
• In what area are they used?
• Installation method;
• The amount of equipment placed inside.

Note! When choosing a shield, you should pay attention to such a parameter as the IP protection class. For those installed indoors, the class should be 30 or 40, for outdoor ones - 65 or 67.

The IP protection degree is how well the devices are insulated from dust and moisture. How more numbers, the higher the protection. Eg:

• IP20 – installed in apartments. 0 – no protection from moisture. 2 – provides protection from large dust particles;
• IP21-23 – installed in unheated enclosed spaces or under canopies;
• IP44 – installed outdoors, under canopies or with additional protection;
• The most protected shields are those with protection classes IP54 and IP66 - they are installed on outdoors and are not afraid of exposure to rain or wind.

Note! It is convenient if cabinets installed in hallways or on the street have a viewing window that allows readings to be taken. When working with such shields, you do not have to open the door every time.

A modern shield for an electric meter is made from a variety of materials, such as:

• Plastic. Such boxes are installed inside apartments and office premises. The products themselves may differ in internal configuration, color and external design. A lock may be provided on the door. When choosing a plastic shield, you must be careful with the manufacturer's data. You should not choose products from little-known suppliers at a low cost - such boxes are made of low-quality plastic, which turns yellow over time under sunlight. Such products have both pros and cons. The main advantage is ease of installation. The shield is easily mounted in plasterboard or similar walls. Electrical panels are made from dielectric material, so they do not require additional grounding. Plastic cases are characterized by durability and visual appeal, so they harmonize in any interior. The disadvantage of the material is that it is flammable and quite fragile. If the shield installed in the wall gets damaged, it will be difficult to replace it;
• Metal. Boxes with a metal body are installed in garages and open spaces. They are strong, durable and resistant to external influences. In addition, they are not flammable and are not afraid high temperature. However, the disadvantage is significant: mandatory grounding is required, and the metal itself, being in an aggressive environment, corrodes. As a rule, metal boxes are installed in entrances apartment buildings or in enterprises.

If you intend to install it outdoors, then it is better to pay attention to the anti-vandal design, for the manufacture of which sheet steel with a thickness of 1.2 mm is used. These boxes are equipped with two doors: one is blind, the second is an inspection window for the meter.

Advantages of installing a shield on the street:

• Quick access to the electric meter by the inspector;
• In some country residences, shields reach impressive sizes, so in order to save free space they are taken outside;
• If the shield does not fit into the interior interior space, it is installed outdoors.

Disadvantages of street placement:

• Based on the rules of the PUE, outdoor cabinets must provide local heating, which provides the meter with a positive temperature. Comply this condition it doesn’t always work out, and induction devices at sub-zero temperatures they simply “lie”;
• In order to take readings from the meter, you need to go outside, where conditions may not always be good;
• The need to re-tighten group lines.

The type of installation of the shield also varies, so they are:

• Invoices. They are installed on the surface of the walls. Allows the distribution of open and hidden wiring;
• Built-in. Mounted in niches located in the walls. Used only for hidden wiring.

Depending on how much additional equipment will be installed, you should determine the capacity of the shield. Electrical boxes have different configurations, depending on the number of seats: 12, 24, 32, 64 and more. One place has a standard distance of 17 to 18 mm. You need to be careful, as each device takes up certain number places Experts recommend using boxes with extra space (this is especially true for built-in panels), which may be required when upgrading the electrical circuit. Minimum size similar devices is 16-24 seats.

• Technical specifications;
• Manufacturer's reliability.

To determine the technical parameters, simple calculations will be required, but making sure that the manufacturer is reliable is not so easy. On modern market There are inexpensive counterfeit products. In addition, you can stumble upon an outright fake famous brand. Therefore, when choosing equipment, you should check the availability of the appropriate certificate, especially if we are talking about a metering device. No electricity supplier will connect uncertified equipment that has not been tested.

At the moment, many companies are engaged in the production of boxes. Based on practice, preference should be given to the following companies: ABB, IEK, Makel. If it is necessary to carry out electrical installation work, these brands appear most often. Products from ABB are considered to be of the highest quality, and the last 2, although inferior in quality, are popular due to their affordable cost. If the main preference is the visual component and at the same time reliability, you need to choose equipment from the Greek manufacturer FOTKA.

How to install a meter in a panel

Before installing the meter, you need to figure out in what order the device will be connected in electric line. In some cases, controllers approve independent connection equipment. It is better to provide a protective disconnecting device in front of the meter. As a rule, in the case of a single-phase network, a two-pole circuit breaker is installed. The functions of this device are as follows:

• Provides meter short circuit protection. Allows for preventive maintenance;
• Capable of limiting permitted power.

When installing the counter, other actions are performed:

• The meter is attached to the panel using a special latch;
• It is necessary to install outgoing single-pole circuit breakers.

Regulations state that the electric meter must be installed at a height of 80 to 170 cm.

A person is constantly surrounded by various electrical appliances. Modern devices can conduct current, which happens most often due to damaged insulation. If the device is not grounded, touching it is very dangerous. To avoid accidents, an RCD is recommended for installation. The purpose of the device is to protect against electric shock (short circuit or damaged insulation).

Shield installation

It is necessary to decide where the box will be fixed. As a rule, this is the hallway, not far from the power cable entry. Installed at a height of 1.5 to 1.7 meters. Holes are made in the wall, and the box itself is secured using dowels or self-tapping screws.

After the shield is installed on the wall, its assembly is as follows:

• All groups of wires must be connected to the shield in advance. They must be marked, which will facilitate assembly according to the diagram;
• Using self-tapping screws, a DIN rail is attached to the shield, on which the devices will be installed;
• The upper part is equipped with a bus for neutral, the lower part for grounding;
• An input machine is installed in the upper part;
• The input machine can be located in a separate box, like the counter;
• As for groups of machines, they are arranged from top to bottom, as power decreases. A special bus serves as a jumper between them, or a copper wire with a cross-section of 4 mm is used;
• Cables and wires are inserted into the box through the provided opening. It is necessary to cut off the outer braid from them, and the gasket is carried out according to color. It is necessary to leave a reserve that may be needed during further repairs. Zero conductors are connected to the upper bus. Power is supplied to the upper terminals, and load is connected to the lower terminals;
• When connecting each group, it is recommended to check its functionality by applying voltage through a temporary connection circuit.

Important! Initially, the panel is assembled without switching, which allows you to mark the installation locations of the devices. If necessary, the power must be quickly turned off, both externally and internally, which must be provided for.

When the shield is closed, it is important to be able to check the voltage using an indicator screwdriver.

When choosing a panel, you must take into account the size of the electric meter and the number of installed packages. In any case, you will have to resort to the help of an electrician: to connect the common circuit and to seal the meter. It’s not difficult to choose a box, but first you should draw up a project correctly so as not to make a mistake.

Video

This type of device is intended for reception and subsequent distribution electrical energy in various circuits. Distribution cabinets are classified into several types.

Usually cabinets are marked with the letters "shr". They are used in networks with a rated current of 400 amperes and a rated voltage of 380 volts with a frequency alternating current not exceeding 50 hertz. In addition, they highlight separate species distribution cabinets for use in networks with a voltage of 660 volts.

The marking "shrn" means that the distribution cabinet is wall-mounted. Typically, the capacity of such cabinets varies from two hundred to one thousand two hundred bar. These types of cabinets are equipped with special frame fastenings, where the plinths are subsequently mounted.

The marking "pr" means "distribution point", this type of cabinet is used for distribution electric current in networks with voltages up to 660 volts and with frequencies varying from 50 to 60 hertz. distribution points also serve to ensure safety electrical networks and anticipation short circuits and random overloads.

Another type of wall cabinet (“shrn”) is wall-mounted. It should be highlighted separately, since increased requirements for strength and reliability apply to its design. Often such cabinets are made of metal and are reliable and durable.

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