You need to choose the right plumbing fixtures. There are many varieties of it. Today, owners of houses and apartments often purchase shower stalls. However, baths do not lose their popularity. Such plumbing today can be made from different materials.
You can do the installation yourself. It is important to know all the intricacies of this process. How to install a bathtub with your own hands, expert advice will help. Each type of plumbing requires specific methods. They will be discussed further.
Installation Features
When considering how to properly install a bathtub, you need to start with a general description of this process. The choice of plumbing fixtures is also important. The bathtub is a large product. It can be quite heavy. At the same time, such plumbing fixtures must be handled carefully so as not to damage the surface. The coating may crack or chip.
Often installation has to be carried out in cramped spaces. This increases the risk of damage to the bathtub. Cast iron varieties can cause damage to the finish themselves. Therefore, it is recommended to carry out the work with an assistant. This makes installation faster and easier.
It is also worth considering one more nuance. Connecting the drain and siphon is done almost by touch. To complete the task, the master must have certain skills.
When learning how to install, pay attention to the advice of experts. They argue that it is extremely important to perform all actions carefully. Care will be required. Otherwise, the work will need to be done again. For example, dropping a tool into a bathtub can damage its surface. In this case, you will need to buy new plumbing fixtures.
The type of material from which the bathtub is made depends on what the installer does. Therefore, if you want to carry out the installation yourself, you need to consider the features of each type of plumbing fixture. This will determine what type of bathtubs would be better suited in a specific case.
Steel and acrylic bathtub
The answer to this question can be obtained if we consider all the subtleties of this process. First you need to consider the features of each. They come in steel, acrylic and cast iron. Each variety has its own characteristics.
A steel bathtub is rigid and relatively inexpensive. It is easy to install yourself. You don't even need an assistant. The disadvantage of steel varieties is their fragility. When water is poured into such a bowl, the material makes a fairly loud sound. The bathtub “plays”, which is reflected in the condition of the enamel. This type of plumbing is suitable for a small room. Here it can be leaned against three walls. This will extend its service life. It should also be noted that a steel bathtub easily transfers heat to the surrounding space. The water in it cools quickly. Required more costs to pay for energy resources for water heating.
One good option is an acrylic bathtub. Its service life reaches 20 years. This bathtub is more expensive than steel varieties. Her weight is also average. Installing this type of plumbing will require the help of a second person. However, installation does not cause any particular difficulties.
Before considering how to install an acrylic bathtub, you need to know about its disadvantages. Even high-quality bowls are not susceptible to impact chemical substances. Therefore, cleaning the surface presents certain difficulties. Do not use abrasive or aggressive chemicals. Only clean water leaves no traces on the bowl.
Cast iron bath
Special attention should be paid to considering the methodology for installing a cast iron bathtub. Such varieties are distinguished by their heavy weight. It has many advantages. However, this bowl is not without its drawbacks.
Cast iron varieties of bathtubs are considered almost eternal. However, this statement is only true when proper care and handling the bathtub. This is a heavy product. To install it you will need a strong assistant. It is recommended to install such a bathtub in a small room where it can be rested against three walls.
Except long term operation, cast iron bowls have virtually no advantages. Thus, an acrylic bathtub surpasses them in terms of practicality and efficiency. The plastic warms up almost instantly. However, it does not release heat to the environment. It only takes a little to fill the cup. hot water. If the owners have an acrylic bathtub, they can install a boiler of only 50 liters.
A cast iron bath, on the contrary, consumes a lot of heat. At the same time, it quickly releases it into the environment. The bowl takes a long time to warm up. If there is a regular cast iron bath you will need to install a boiler with a capacity of 100 liters. At the same time, energy costs increase by 1.5 times compared to steel varieties, and also by 2.5 times compared to acrylic structures.
When figuring out how to install a bathtub, you also need to consider the installation features of cast iron varieties. Due to the heavy weight, installation becomes much more difficult. It is almost impossible to place the bowl on an already prepared siphon without damaging it. Therefore, it is mounted to the bowl in advance. However, even in this case the possibility of damage cannot be ruled out.
Installing a cast iron bathtub with legs is also a challenge. If you purchase adjustable type supports, they can quickly break. This installation option is only suitable for a small room where the bathtub is pressed against three walls.
Preparation for installation
Before considering the technology of how to install a bathtub with your own hands, you need to pay attention to the preparation process. This stage cannot be neglected.
First you need to dismantle and remove the old bathtub from the room (if it was already installed here). If a cast iron bowl was previously installed, it will need to be cut and split into pieces. If the room is small, dismantling it may be difficult. There are no such problems with acrylic and steel bathtubs.
Next, you need to properly prepare the floor and walls and remove all irregularities. You will need to purchase a number of tools. You need to prepare a grinder, chisel, hammer and screwdriver. Will also be needed cement mortar, polyurethane foam. If the installation is carried out on a frame, you will need to purchase material for its assembly.
You should purchase paint, polyurethane foam, and sealant. You may need electrical tape as you work. To install a bathtub you need legs, drain fittings and other related elements. It is also recommended to purchase new mixer. It will harmoniously complement appearance baths.
If the owners have plastic sewer pipes installed, you need to purchase a drain corrugation with a diameter of 50 mm. For cast iron pipes this element of the system must have a diameter of 40 mm.
When learning how to install a corner or straight bathtub, you need to pay attention to the preparation of the sewer drain. If there are defects or malfunctions in this system, they need to be eliminated before it is especially important to eliminate leaks, if any are found.
Also, before starting work, you need to study the instructions of the bathtub manufacturer. The manual describes the installation technology in detail. This information must be studied before starting work.
Walls and floor
There are certain standards for installing a bathtub. This applies to the preparation and installation process. It is recommended to cladding the walls indoors after installing the bowl. This allows you to comply with all sanitary and hygienic standards. When the tile is installed after installing the bathtub, its bottom edge hangs over the plumbing. It is coated with a waterproofing compound. This avoids the appearance of fungus and rot.
If the bathtub is installed in a finished room that does not require major renovations, its legs should be at least 2 cm higher than the old plumbing fixtures. Otherwise, an unsightly gap appears. Its finishing will cause a number of difficulties. Even if you use similar tiles, new material will be slightly different in color from the old coating.
It is also worth paying due attention to the correct finishing of the floor. Many novice craftsmen have a question: how to install a bathtub so that it does not wobble? To perform installation correctly, you need to level the floor. At the same time, durable materials are chosen for finishing the base. The weight of the water bath is quite large.
The cement layer under the bowl must be continuous. It is laid not using a comb, but by extrusion. If there are voids in the grout, the tile may crack from the weight of the bathtub in that area.
Experienced experts recommend installing larch logs on the floor (other types of wood are not suitable). They are laid lengthwise. The legs will stand on them. The boards must be treated with special antiseptic solutions. This technique will evenly distribute the load on the floor. The logs will also help you correctly adjust the height of the bathtub. To prevent the boards from shrinking later, you need to place a bowl on them and fill it with water. The system remains in this position for at least 2 days (preferably a week).
Features of installing a corner acrylic bowl
There are a number of recommendations on how to install an acrylic bathtub. It is necessary to take into account the features of this design. Today, corner acrylic bowls are very popular. They will look harmonious in both small and spacious bathrooms. This bowl shape allows you to install many additional interior elements in the bathroom. For example, if you have a corner bathtub in the room, you can place a washbasin with a cabinet. There is also enough space to install a bidet or washing machine.
There are several nuances to installing acrylic corner baths. These need to be taken into account before starting work. Similar designs can be with right or left type of arrangement. The ease of connecting the water supply and sewerage depends on the correct choice of bowl type.
The walls for installing such a bathtub must be very smooth. Otherwise, the structure will be impossible to level. It will wobble and quickly collapse.
Corner bowls are installed on legs. In this case, the supports must be firmly fixed along the entire perimeter. They will later serve to fasten the frame and its guides. This work requires precision and accuracy. You will need to consider in detail how to install a bath on a frame.
Where the bowl will be adjacent to the wall, you will need to install a flexible baseboard. It does not deform during vibrations and will also prevent water leakage. Otherwise the installation is angular acrylic bathtub similar to the technology for installing any bowl made of this material.
Installation of an acrylic bowl on a frame
Should be considered frame technology How to properly install an acrylic bathtub. For built-in plumbing, this is one of the best installation options. To carry out the work you will need a building level. Its length should correspond to the diagonal of the acrylic product. The hammer must have a rubber tip.
A pipe must be attached to the sewer outlet. It should be flexible and have the same diameter as the tub outlet. You need to attach a siphon here. If it is new, you need to carefully study the manufacturer's instructions. How to install a siphon on a bathtub is indicated by the company that supplies the bowl. All the nuances of this process are discussed here.
The siphon will need to be pre-assembled. It is attached to the bathtub, coating the joints with sanitary silicone. It hardens within 4 hours.
After this you need to mount the frame. First, fix the guides along the wall. These profiles should be fixed as evenly as possible. Other frame elements will be mounted from them. They are installed on the sides. They are fixed to them vertical racks. The connection is made using welding or bolts. Angles need to be checked using a level. If one of them is down and the other is up, you need to align them. At the same time, the lowered corner is raised, and not vice versa. After this, they are additionally fixed with strips for rigidity.
After this, an acrylic bowl is installed in the prepared structure. An overflow from a siphon must be connected to its side hole, and a sewer drain must be connected to the central hole. Plumbing communications are located above the bathtub, so their installation is carried out later. Next, a screen and a plinth between the wall and the bowl are installed.
Installation of an acrylic bowl with legs
There is a certain system for how to properly install a clawfoot bathtub. The supports are supplied complete with the plumbing product. There are special protrusions on the bottom of these bowls. Legs are installed on them. In order for the structure to be rigid, the supports also need to be connected to each other. To perform this procedure, nuts and studs are used.
Next, a siphon is connected to the drain. After this, you can begin installing the bath. The feet must rest firmly on the floor surface. They are checked using a level. If one corner is raised, the other corners also need to be raised. To do this, turn the bowl over. The legs are adjusted to the desired level.
After this, you can connect communications. The water supply will need to be installed later. How to install a faucet on a bathtub, follow the instructions from the manufacturer of this equipment.
In rare cases, acrylic. This is explained by the complexity of performing such work. It is difficult to install bricks at all support points at the same level. This can cause the bathtub to wobble. This problem can only be solved by creating a frame. Therefore, installing an acrylic bowl on bricks is not recommended by experts.
Installation of a cast iron bowl
Special attention deserves the question of how to install a cast iron bathtub. In this case, increased demands are placed on the quality of the subfloor and walls. Such a bowl is almost always installed on legs. Bricks can also be used in this case. In this case, it will be difficult to assemble the frame. It must be very durable. The metal of the guides must withstand a weight of about 500 kg.
First, you need to mount the legs on the back of the bowl. They have plastic nozzles. This element is necessary to level the position of the bath. The nozzles also prevent the destruction of the floor surface. The supports must be bolted together. This will make the connection tighter. There should be a slight slope towards the drain. After this, a drain from the sewer is supplied. There should be no leaks.
Next you need to mount the screen. This is an optional but desirable procedure. Expert advice will help you on how to install a screen under a bathtub. They recommend using insulation for this. This will reduce heat loss, which will be significant if a cast iron bowl is used. For this purpose, special polyurethane foam is used. It is used to cover the back surface of the bowl. After this you need to install decorative screen. It should be 1 cm higher than the side. This way the water will not overflow onto the floor.
The joints between the walls are covered with plinths. All connections must be carefully treated with sealant. Installing a cast iron bowl requires significant physical effort. It is better to entrust this work to professionals.
Installation of a steel bowl
When installing a steel bowl, the question of how to install the screen under the bathtub disappears. If such a product is installed, it is necessary to ensure free access to all communications.
First, place the bowl upside down. You need to put soft material under it. Next, try on the supports. The supporting channel must be adjusted so that the legs fit snugly to the bottom of the bowl. The joints must be degreased with alcohol. Do not use paint thinner.
Remove from the pads protective film. The supports are placed in the designated places. They need to be pressed tightly. Threaded pins must be carefully driven into the plastic ends. The tip is screwed using nuts to the supports.
The bathtub is installed on legs. If necessary, their level must be adjusted. There should be a slight slope towards the drain. Sewage and faucet are connected. The joints must be sealed with high quality sealant. Next, you can attach the baseboard to the wall. You can install a decorative screen. It is better to give preference to sliding structures.
Having considered how to install a bathtub, you can perform this procedure yourself. The quality of installation will be high. The bathtub will last for many years.
The bathroom is an essential attribute modern man. Here you can not only cleanse your body of the dirt accumulated during the day, but also relax after work, plunging into your thoughts for a while. That is why you should take the choice of a bathtub very seriously, as well as its installation, since not only the appearance of the bathroom, but also the morale of the homeowners will depend on these two factors.
Don’t forget about savings, since installing such a product is a costly affair, and sometimes it’s better to do all the work yourself.
The very first step when replacing a bathtub is choosing the type that will be installed. The durability, appearance and practicality of use will depend on the choice of material from which the product is made. Especially if a boiler is installed as a heater. Currently, the market offers several types of bathtubs, which differ in material:
1. Steel- an ideal option for those who want to save as much as possible, but due to its cheapness it has a number of disadvantages: metal deformation (deflections) under weight, noise when drawing water. This type is quite easy to install, since a man of average build can easily handle the weight of the product. To reduce the likelihood of deformation and damage to the enamel during operation, you need to select the bathtub itself of such dimensions that it contacts and is attached to three walls.
Steel baths have a high level of heat transfer. In order to fill a standard-sized bathtub you will need about 50 liters of water with a temperature of at least 80 degrees. The only plus is that the metal warms up quickly.
2. Cast iron- with proper use and care, it can last for several generations. It is unrealistic to handle the weight of the product yourself, so installation will have to be done by several people. If a steel bathtub can be connected to an already installed siphon, then a cast iron product can break part of the communications due to one awkward movement. Another drawback is adjusting the level of the installed product. If the bathtub is equipped with legs of fixed sizes, you will have to put a lot of effort into leveling it. Adjustable legs in cast iron bathtubs can also be found, but they are quite flimsy and can break under a certain amount of force.
In order to take a cast iron bath you will need about 100 liters of hot water. The metal takes a very long time to heat up and gives off heat quickly. In terms of economy, one procedure will cost one and a half times more than in a steel bathtub.
3. Acrylic bath- lightweight, easy to install, durable (15-20 years). You will need at least two people for installation. The product does not tolerate aggressive detergents and is intended only for bathing (you can forget about a big wash using the good old methods). In terms of price, such bathtubs are cheaper than cast iron ones, but they can still hit the budget big time.
The most economical type of bathroom in terms of use for its intended purpose. The material gives off heat very slowly and warms up quickly, and for one use 50 liters of hot water with a temperature of 40 degrees is enough.
Acrylic bathtubs in Lately have become very popular, despite the fact that their price sometimes exceeds all possible limits. This popularity is due to the presence large assortment, as well as the ease of installation. Also, the buyer can choose not only the classic rectangular bowl, but also corner options, which expands the possibilities for interior decoration.
Preparing the bathroom for installation
Wall covering
It is best to install a bath directly during the renovation of the room, but before finishing the cladding. Since at this moment you can achieve maximum aesthetic and practical qualities, and during laying the tiles you can effectively treat all the cracks that can let water through and create an ideal environment for the development of mold and bacteria.
If we are only talking about replacing the bathtub itself, you should make sure that the height of the product is 1.5-2 cm higher than the previous one. The part of the tile that came into contact old container, was not subject to fading, and could also accumulate a fair amount of dirt on its surface and wash it, in most cases it is simply unrealistic.
Working with the floor
Before installing the bathtub, you need to once again make sure that the floor is perfectly flat and durable, especially if we are talking about installing a cast-iron bathtub, which is heavy even when unfilled. Tiles under a heavy bathtub should be laid using the pressing method, which allows you to get rid of voids under the material. It is because of them that the tile can crack.
To distribute the load that the bathtub will create when filled, you can use wooden joists. Most suitable tree- larch. The logs are pre-treated with antiseptic and antibacterial agents, then impregnated with drying oil or PVA putty.
Such logs will distribute the load and solve the issue of height. By the way, the latter will help solve not only the problem of appearance, but will also allow you to install a siphon with a deeper elbow, which prevents sewage waste from penetrating in the opposite direction. Also, thanks to the additional rise of the bathtub, less waste in the form of hair, etc. will accumulate in the siphon.
Drain fittings
When choosing drain fittings, you need to pay attention to the following characteristics:
1. Material. Products made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polyisopropylene are available on the market. The second option is more durable, but will also be more expensive, but a number of advantages completely pay for the product:
- the material is several times harder than PVC, which significantly reduces the likelihood of mechanical damage during bath installation;
- does not lose its strength characteristics over time;
- has more smooth surface, which reduces the likelihood of contamination;
- has more high coefficient useful action, since the friction of water against the walls of the pipes is much less.
2. Drain. Most drains on the market come from China and use a bolt during the installation process. Over time, such bolts will corrode, rust and oxidize, regardless of the material. Even if you purchase a stainless steel bolt separately, as a result of its contact with the mesh, a solder will form, which will reduce the likelihood of successful disassembly during repairs to zero.
3. Drain mesh. Most economical option- a mesh consisting of two crossbars forming a cross. This type is an ideal hair catcher. More practical look, in which round holes are located around the perimeter. The most expensive and reliable type is oblique, profiled holes in the mesh.
4. Cork chain– it is advisable not to use those products that come complete with drain nets, but to purchase a separate one. The best option is to use a chain designed for fishing, and covered with a layer of paint on top. The latter protects against the negative effects of water.
5. Overflow pipe. Although most older bathtubs use rigid pipe, it is best to use corrugated pipe, which has a large throughput and diameter. These two indicators reduce the likelihood of water overflowing.
Bathtub dimensions - nuances
The dimensions of the bathtub will directly depend on the size of the room where the product will be located, as well as on those who will use it. Before purchasing the container itself, it is necessary to carefully measure the place where it will be located, and also take into account the presence of additional equipment, by type washing machines, dryers and boilers. It is worth remembering that bathtubs that are identical in appearance can have different volumes.
The most common sizes for different types of bathtubs:
1. Steel: length 150-180 cm, height 65 cm, width 70-85 cm.
2. Cast iron is available in several standardized sizes:
- small-sized: length – 120-130 cm, width 70 cm;
- European standard: length 140-150 cm, width 70 cm;
- large-sized: length 170-180 cm, width 70-85 cm.
3. Acrylic bathtubs are available on the market in the widest range, from 120 to 190 cm in length and 70-170 cm in width.
Small bathtubs are suitable for small rooms, but the process of bathing does not cause any pleasure at all. Also, you should not count on a lower cost, since compactness is a need and to satisfy it, you need to spend a little money.
If bathroom quite spacious, it’s worth choosing a cast iron or acrylic product. It is the range of the latter that is the most diverse: corner, with decorative finishing, rectangular, square, polygonal, etc.
When you don’t want to spend money on an acrylic bathtub, you can purchase a plastic product. As a rule, they are purchased from Chinese manufacturers and are not of particular quality, and installation requires additional effort and attention to detail.
DIY bath installation: step-by-step guide
Installation of all types of bathtubs is carried out in several stages, but the process may require special tools and materials.
- The rule is an even strip, the length of which is equal to the diagonal of the bathtub. As such a tool, you can use any long and level bar on which a level is placed.
- Fork wrench - necessary for tightening drain mechanisms, which are most often made of plastic.
- Rubber hammer - can be useful when shrinking the legs of the bathtub. The use of metal products may cause deformation of the surface of the product and also damage the enamel.
Additional materials: silicone-based sealant and “rag” electrical tape. The latter is only needed when installing an acrylic bathtub.
Leveling the bathtub and connecting to the sewer
Leveling the bathtub is carried out using a level, and the main principle is to lift the lowered part, and not vice versa, since the height of the installed product is important for us.
Full connection to the sewerage system is carried out after complete installation baths, as the siphon can be damaged in the process. When choosing drain fittings, you first need to pay attention to the width of the outlet pipe. If it is wide enough, you can do without a cuff, and simply fill the gap with silicone or silicone-based sealant. You can level the bathtub in two ways: diagonally and along the sides.
In the first case, you need to put the rule on opposite corners, and set the level on top. After the level shows a satisfactory result, it is necessary to shift the rule to other angles and repeat twisting the legs. When finished, repeat the procedure again.
In the second case, the level is placed on the side of the bathtub, the legs of one side are adjusted, then we move to the other. Alignment along the sides is carried out several times, since the side opposite to the one being measured may get lost. The method of leveling along the sides is more labor-intensive, especially in cases where the floor has a number of irregularities.
Preparing the sewer
First you need to make sure that the sewer pipe pipe and the pipe itself are completely dry. This will allow you to achieve maximum sealing when connecting. It is best to shut off the water supply to the entire residence, and, if possible, completely stop the water supply to the riser. The main thing is not to forget to warn your neighbors that there will be no water for several hours during the flight. Next, make sure that there is no moisture not only from the inside, but also from the outside of the pipe. To do this, you can use a regular cosmetic hair dryer.
After workplace prepared, it's time to move on direct installation. Let's start with a bathtub made of acrylic.
Installation of an acrylic bathtub
Each product comes with special guides onto which the legs are later attached. They are installed across the bathtub. The legs are screwed into the holders (the correct name for the guides).
The guides themselves are attached to the bathtub using special screws, which can also be found in the kit. To prevent the self-tapping screws from damaging the integrity of the shell, you need to pre-drill holes for them. You must use a drill with a stop, and the depth of the hole should not exceed 3/4 of the length of the screw.
After the guides are installed, you need to turn the bathtub on its side and connect the drain fittings. Before installing it, all gaskets that will be used must be treated with silicone. Remember that the drain gasket is installed only from the outside! Otherwise, get ready to pay your neighbors to repair the ceiling.
All threaded connections should not be tightly tightened, as there is a possibility of damage to the structure during installation.
During installation, place the bathtub close to all walls, at the same time make sure that the bathtub outlet is connected to the sewer pipe. Next, level the bathtub using a rule (level) and seal the connection to the sewer with sealant.
While the sealant hardens, it is necessary to tighten everything using a fork wrench. screw connections who were in a semi-relaxed state.
When the sealant has completely hardened, check all joints for the possibility of leaks and if none are found, you can treat the gaps between the bathtub and the walls with the same sealant.
Installation of a steel bath
A steel bathtub is installed similarly to an acrylic one. The only difference is the way the legs are attached. They are attached using bolts, studs or wedges. The bolts must be tightened gradually and one at a time. You should not immediately be zealous and tighten them to the limit, as in the future there may be a need for additional, fine adjustments.
To make the bathtub make a less loud sound when filling, you can place a piece of automobile rubber between the leg mount and the surface of the bathtub.
Subtleties of installing a cast iron bathtub
Let us remind you that cast iron products have incredible weight and a bathtub made from this material is no exception. It is advisable to carry out all connection and adjustment work in the bathroom. Moving a product from room to room is fraught with unforeseen consequences in the form of damage to doorways and other interior elements.
Products with decorative legs deserve special attention. This type is selected specifically for the interior and the use of pads as the level is adjusted will negate the entire aesthetic component. Decorative legs should be filed at the base, but this is a job for masters of their craft.
To install a drain, unlike previous types, it is advisable not to turn a cast iron bathtub on its side. It will be enough to raise the front part to create additional space, and fix it in this state with the help of bars.
All work must be carried out very carefully and not tug the bathtub again.
Installing a plastic bathtub
We didn't highlight this type into a separate category, since plastic bathtubs are a cheaper substitute for acrylic products, and the installation process is almost identical. The only difference is the need to create an additional pillow that will relieve the load from the bottom of the product. The pillow can be made either from the same larch or from cement. Plastic baths also require special care and careful operation. Otherwise, the need to replace the product will appear in 5-7 years. These products do not tolerate aggressive detergents.
Bathroom screen
There are a wide variety of bathroom screens. Moreover, you can not limit yourself to buying a finished product, but do everything yourself. This approach may not be the most correct, but it will definitely be the most economical.
Installing a bathtub without the help of specialists is a rather difficult task, which not everyone can do. Here you need to have not only the ability to work with various instruments, but also know all the intricacies of the process. You should also take special care when working with cast iron products - they are heavy and you can easily injure your limbs during the transfer process.
Video lesson: Installing a bathtub. Important points
If you doubt your abilities, invite the help of specialists who will carry out all the work according to the standards and your desires. In addition, companies or firms involved in installation are required to provide guarantees for the work performed, as well as for Additional materials, which were purchased directly through them.
A steel bath is the cheapest option, with correct installation and additional processing according to your own performance qualities is in no way inferior to more expensive analogues. The main advantage of heavy cast iron bathtubs is long time heat is retained. But in order to heat cast iron, you need a lot of hot water, and this is associated with additional losses of thermal energy. Moreover, during the adoption water procedures the water cools down anyway, the heat escapes through a large area of unprotected surfaces. There is a simple way to eliminate this drawback; if desired, the performance characteristics of an ordinary steel bath can be brought to high standards.
Important point right choice simplifies installation and increases comfort of use.
By what criteria are bathtubs classified?
| Parameter | Meaning and tips for choosing |
|---|---|
| 105x70, 120x70, 130x70, 140x70, 150x70, 160x70, 170x70, 170x75, 180x80. Choose the length and width of the bath taking into account the size of the room and the height of the residents. Try to keep the product as close as possible to the opposite walls, this will make the installation process much easier. | |
| 110, 120, 123, 136, 150, 170, 195, 210, 240. Volume directly depends on depth, and this parameter affects the height of the edge. If elderly people or children live in the house, then you should not buy a large bathtub; it is difficult to get in and out of. In addition, a large volume will require significant losses of hot water. But, on the other hand, than more water, the longer the comfortable temperature remains. | |
| On bolts or double-sided tape. The first option is used by serious manufacturers; bolt-on mounting is more reliable and in most cases does not require additional reinforcement or installation on bricks. Legs on tape - a budget option, is not stable. The legs can help level the bathtub horizontally; to increase the reliability of fixation, installation on brick linings is recommended. | |
| All steel bathtubs are covered with enamel. But the quality of the coating is different. The worst cover domestic producers. Insufficient enamel thickness and poor quality of the composition in terms of physical strength reduce the service life. As a result, there is a need to restore the enamel (long and unreliable) or replace it. |
Choose the size of the bath responsibly, taking into account the characteristics of the residents and the room. Poor quality enamel can be recognized by several signs.
- Run your hand over the surface. The surface must be perfectly smooth. Roughness or “sea waves” indicate a violation of the annealing conditions. Such a coating will quickly get dirty and requires constant cleaning.
- Inspect the coating from different angles. If not complied with standard thickness, then in some places the shade of white changes.
- Pay attention to the area of the bottom near the drain. There are cases when the drain is in the same plane or protrudes slightly above the surface. In this bath, the water will not drain completely; a small amount will always remain near the drain. After drying, calcium is deposited in these places, and over time it acquires a yellow tint.
Practical advice. Steel bathtubs belong to the segment of inexpensive products; there is no need to buy the cheapest ones. Additional savings will ultimately bring losses; purchase products only from well-known, time-tested manufacturers with numerous customers.
steel bath
Preparing the site
The location where the bathroom is installed should already have sewer and water pipes. Check the levelness of the floor and the corners of the room. If the angle between the walls is not 90°, then this disadvantage must be taken into account when installing the bathtub.
The flooring must be horizontal.
Of course, with the help of legs or bricks, the bathtub will be installed level, but problems may arise with water drainage during leaks. The fact is that it is difficult to detect small leaks under the bathtub, all elements are closed. If water accumulates near the wall and the leaks are insignificant, then fungus will certainly appear in this place. Getting rid of it is difficult, time-consuming and expensive. In some cases, you will have to completely dismantle the bathtub, do a set of special measures and reinstall the bathtub. Minor leaks can appear for various reasons; their absence cannot be completely guaranteed. If water flows towards the screen, the problem is immediately visible, the causes are promptly eliminated and Negative consequences minimal.
Installation of siphon and overflow
These elements must be installed before installing the bathtub in place. In terms of their design and connection technology, all systems are the same, the only difference is in price and material of manufacture.
Step 1. Turn the bathtub upside down. To protect enamel from mechanical damage When tipping, place cardboard or soft cloth on the floor. Do not do such work yourself, call an assistant. Together, the process not only speeds up significantly, but also the quality of installation improves.
Step 2. Read the assembly instructions and check that the siphon is complete. Pay attention to the gaskets, they differ in appearance and size. Do not mix up the gaskets; each must be installed in its place.
Step 3. Assemble the siphon and secure it in the drain hole. Do not use too much force to avoid damaging the seals and gaskets. To make assembly easier, it is recommended to use petroleum jelly or moisten the surfaces with soapy water.
The upper part is attached inside the bathtub, the lower part is mounted under the bathtub drain hole
Important. The drain gasket has a groove dividing it into parts of unequal thickness. The thin side should go inside the bathtub, the thick side should be on the back side. Don't change your position. Otherwise, the plastic element will protrude above the surface of the bathtub and the water will not be able to drain completely. The remaining part after drying forms at the bottom yellow spots, they will have to be removed frequently. All cleaning products contain compounds that have Negative influence on enamel. Even though their concentration is insignificant, with repeated use the thickness of the enamel decreases.
Step 4. Turn the bathtub on its side, install the gaskets one by one and screw on the plastic parts of the drain and overflow. It's much easier to do this together. One should hold the parts, and the second should tighten them with a mounting bolt. Do not apply too much force, the plastic may crack.
Check the connections for tightness. It is better to do this before installing the bathtub in place, this will make it easier to eliminate leaks. Everything is fine - you can install the legs.
Installation of legs
We have already mentioned that the legs can be fixed with double-sided tape or nuts. In the first option, no problems should arise. You just need to make sure that they do not interfere with the inspection of the siphon and ensure the stability of the bath.
Assembling the second version of the legs will be more difficult. General recommendations It is impossible to give, each manufacturer develops its own design. Look at the pictures, read the recommendations. It is necessary to achieve reliable fixation of all structural parts to the bathtub.
Adjust the position of the bathtub using the threads on the legs; check horizontality in two directions with a level. When you find the desired position, be sure to secure the threads of the legs with nuts. They should not wobble, otherwise the slope of the bath will change over time. In addition, gaps will appear between the wall and the bathtub. To fix the problem, you will have to make additional stops under the bottom.
And one more piece of advice. Unfortunately, there are defective bathtubs; their factory tilted bottom does not ensure complete drainage of water. To prevent such situations, practitioners advise immediately increasing the slope of the bathtub bottom to the side drain hole by a few millimeters. This will not be noticeable to the eye, but will guarantee the normal functioning of the drain.
Warming the bowl
A very significant point, it makes it possible to significantly reduce the consumption of warm water, which is important considering current prices on public utilities. After insulating the bowl, the bathtub’s heat saving performance is significantly superior to all commercially available expensive analogues. In addition, it does not add weight and extinguishes perfectly unpleasant sounds while filling with water.
How is the bowl insulated?
Step 1. Work must be done in an overturned position. Recommended immediately after installing the siphon with overflow and legs. Buy two or three cans of polyurethane foam. The cheaper the better. The fact is that cheap foam during hardening significantly increases in volume, and this is exactly what we need. More volume means more air bubbles, less heat losses. And the low price is explained by the low compression force; this parameter does not play any role in our case.
Step 2. Clean the outside of the tub. If there is grease on it, you will have to wash it off with solvents. Working with solvents is unsafe for health; ensure maximum ventilation of the room. Better to work for outdoors, and not indoors. Be sure to use respiratory protection.
Step 3. After the solvent has completely dried, moisten the surface of the bottom with a spray bottle. Moisture increases the adhesion coefficient of foam to the bottom by an order of magnitude. In addition, water helps optimal mode flow chemical reactions, the foam will harden much faster.
Step 4. Shake the foam container thoroughly, put on a special plastic straw. Start covering the bottom with foam. The process will go faster if you apply it in sectors from bottom to top. The foam should lie in even rows at a distance of no more than a centimeter. Wider rows are not a problem; after hardening, the gaps will correct themselves. If the surface dries out, re-wet it with a sprayer. Do not touch the wet foam with your hands, do not try to “stick” it to the surface. You won't get anything other than additional problems. The foam will no longer increase in volume, and it is almost impossible to wash your hands. You will have to scrape it off for a long time and tediously with a knife.
Step 5. Wait until the foam hardens, check the uniformity of the coating, and blow out any gaps.
Practical advice. If foam falls off vertical surfaces, turn the bathtub upside down. different sides and finish only the horizontal ones. It will take longer to work, but the result is worth it.
Step 6. Cut off the excess foam near the edge of the bath; it should not interfere with making the frame for the screen. The distance depends on the type and method of installation of the screen.
This completes the preparatory work for installation. The bathtub has a siphon, legs and insulation.
Installing a bathtub on bricks
This installation completely eliminates the bathtub from swaying and tipping over; we strongly recommend using it.
Step 1. Place the clawfoot bathtub in the desired location, mark their location, and draw horizontal lines. Bricks or blocks will be laid along these lines. The bathtub is pre-adjustable in height and inclination using leg bolts.
Step 2. Measure the distance from the bottom to the floor, prepare the required number of bricks. If necessary, use a mason's hammer to chop off the excess parts to the required height.
Step 3. Prepare cement-sand mortar. For one part of cement, add about three parts of sand, water as needed.
Step 4. Lay two rows of bricks where the tub is supported. Place about two more centimeters of solution on top. The solution should hold its shape and not spread over the surface of the bricks. If necessary, add a little sand and cement to it, mix thoroughly.
Step 5. Carefully lower the bath vertically into place until it stops with the solution. Now, with a little effort, rock and press it until your legs touch the floor, repeat these actions on both sides. Take your time, let the bath gradually take its place and squeeze out the excess solution. Once the feet (if any) touch the floor, the installation is complete. Give the solution time to harden (about a day) and continue installing the bathtub.
Bath screens
Using screens, communications are hidden; it is possible to make shelves for storing various household items. In addition, they significantly improve the interior of the room. The screen can be brick with further cladding with ceramic tiles, MDF, plastic panels, plasterboard, OSB or in the form of an ordinary curtain made of thick fabric. We'll tell you how to do each option in turn.
The structures must provide convenient access to the siphon for periodic routine cleaning of the system. It is advisable to have an opening for the feet only if the bathroom is used for washing. As an option - a country house for temporary residence. Put it in dear washing machine unprofitable and dangerous, summer residents, out of old habit, use the bathtub to wash clothes.
What types of frames are there for installing screens?
Any type of screen, except brick, is mounted on a frame. They are made from metal profiles (the best option), wooden slats or square pipes. The last option is very expensive and time-consuming, operational benefits has none. Why do you need a frame that can withstand a load of hundreds of kilograms, if it actually does not exceed a few? We believe that there is no point in considering it. The manufacture of the structure must be approached very carefully; in any case, a crooked structure will have to be redone.
How to make a frame from metal profiles?
Step 1. Count the number of profiles.
They need three vertical baths in height, two horizontal in length and two horizontal in the width of the bath. To strengthen the structure, use jumpers; you need to make a separate small frame for the door. Three jumpers in length are enough; in width you can do without them. Knowing the dimensions of your bathtub, it is easy to find out the total amount of material. Immediately buy self-tapping screws for attaching profiles.
Step 2. Make the markings.
This is a very important stage, don’t rush, check the measurements several times. To increase accuracy, use a plumb line; the level does not indicate vertical planes accurately.
How to make markup?
- Apply the plumb line to the wall and corner of the bathtub, wait until it calms down. Make a mark of the upper and lower position of the thread, draw a line between the marks. Using the same algorithm, draw a vertical line at all free corners of the bathtub; there can be two or three of them depending on the size of the bathtub and the room. This way the junction of the screen with the walls is indicated.
- At a distance of about 3-4 centimeters, draw parallel lines next to them outside the perimeter of the bath. The specific distance depends on the frame material and finishing finishing materials: plasterboard, OSB, MDF or glue and ceramic tiles.
- Draw the same parallel lines on the bathroom floor. Check all dimensions again to avoid mistakes.
Further work depends on the material used to make the frame. The best option– metal profile, but you can also work with wooden slats.
Metal profile frame
Step 1. Cut the metal profile to size; we have already described how to determine them. Don’t work on jumpers yet; make blanks only around the perimeter of the frame.
Step 2. Lay the long profile on the floor, one side should be exactly adjacent to the marked line. Carefully use a marker to mark the locations for drilling holes for the dowels. It's not good to work with a pencil, use a marker.
Step 3. Remove the profile, drill holes with a drill, put the profile in place and fix it. Do not immediately tighten the dowels; the strips have perforated holes, with the help of which the element can be slightly moved in different directions and achieved an exact position.
Step 4. Now fix the planks to the walls. The algorithm of actions is the same. If you plan to use a heavy OSB board for cladding, then the vertical and horizontal profiles at the corners are connected to each other with hardware.
Step 5. Attach the profiles along the length and width close to the top side of the bathroom, you should have a strong frame. If necessary, make additional jumpers to strengthen the structure. They can have a vertical or horizontal position.
Step 6. Decide on the size of the door for the siphon inspection, make a small frame for it in the right place. Constantly check the position of all frame elements with a level. The door dimensions are at least 30 cm around the perimeter, otherwise it is inconvenient to clean the siphon.
The frame is ready, check its stability, apply multidirectional efforts from all sides. The structure is shaking - add jumpers to problem areas, achieve high stability.
Frame made of wooden blocks
In terms of its performance, it is in no way inferior to metal profiles. Do not be afraid that rot will appear on the tree. If there are any concerns, soak it with antiseptics.
For the frame you can use slats of various sizes. When choosing, take into account the load of the finishing sheathing. A universal option can be considered to be the dimensions of the slats five by five centimeters. Make markings on the floor and wall as always. One feature - consider the width of the slats; they should fit under the side shelves of the bathtub and not interfere finishing. To fix the frame, use metal corners and dowels; the width of the corners is slightly less than the width of the slats. This will make it possible to adjust the position of the frame without fear. Plus it's easy to fix possible mistakes while drilling holes for dowels.
Step 1. Place a long block on the floor and estimate the position of the corners. Make marks for drilling holes for dowels.
Practical advice. In order to completely eliminate the possibility of the corner going beyond the line, it is better to move it slightly inward. It’s not scary that it will be screwed to the block off-center, but nothing will interfere with the finishing.
Step 2. Drill holes, secure the corners with dowels and a block to them with self-tapping screws. Adjust its position. Install the short block in the same way.
Step 3. Measure the height of the vertical elements. Make a gap of approximately 1 cm to the bottom of the sides of the bathtub. Using corners, fasten the segments into a single structure with the bottom one.
Step 4. Prepare two more long and two short ones for fixing in the upper part of the frame. Why two and not one? We recommend installing the first one at a distance of approximately 10 cm from the side; these bars are needed to control the size and verticality of the frame. On an already stable structure, it is recommended to fix one more one close to the side. It’s much easier to do this, and the frame is more accurate. In addition, the strength of the structure increases.
Step 5. IN in the right places make a frame for the door; if heavy materials are used, then install several lintels. To increase strength, you can fix several spacers in the corners.
The frame is ready, you can begin the finishing cladding, fastening is carried out with wood screws.
Brick screens
In terms of time, they do not take much time, and in terms of strength, reliability and durability they are much superior to the previously described options. Prepare materials and tools. You can use bricks or concrete blocks. The quantity is calculated in this way.
- Calculate the side and end area of the space near the bathtub that you are going to cover.
- Divide the resulting amount by the area of one brick or block. Round the quantity to a whole number. For reserve, you can take one block or two bricks.
One bath will require two buckets of sand and a third of a bucket of cement. In the future, the surface needs to be finished with ceramic tiles; we will give a step-by-step design in the next section.
Step 1. Place the first row of bricks on the edge, constantly checking its position with a level. You need to know that masonry on an edge has its own characteristics; if they are not followed, the wall may “float”. First feature. The solution should be slightly thicker than when laying flat. To increase the adhesion of the mortar to the side edge of the brick, it should be moistened with a spray bottle. Do not overdo it. The optimal degree of wetting will be determined practically. Second feature. After three rows you need to give the solution time to harden a little. Take a break for two or three hours.
The bricks are laid in a checkerboard pattern, the joints of the lower row are covered with whole bricks of the upper one.
Step 2. Continue working until the entire space is covered. It will be difficult to push the mortar into the gap between the masonry and the sides. It is advisable to make such an emphasis, it significantly increases the strength of the bathtub installation. Use any small means at hand for these purposes; such work cannot be done with a trowel.
Important. Don't forget to leave a hole for siphon inspection. Check the structure, remove any remaining mortar that has emerged. Give it time to harden at least 24 hours.
Ceramic tile finishing
If the wall already has tiles, then the work becomes somewhat more complicated. The fact is that you need to take measures to match the seam between the tiles on the wall and the screen. There are situations when it is impossible to lay a whole tile, you have to cut it into pieces. No practical experience cutting tiles - use plastic inserts. They can even out jambs up to a centimeter, but the appearance, of course, will suffer a little. Real professionals do not use inserts for joints; their cuts fit tightly to surfaces without gaps.
Step 1. Count the number of tiles, the method is the same as for bricks. And you can buy one or two tiles as a spare; you won’t need any more, the surface area to be finished is very small. You need to buy about 10 kg of glue.
Step 2. Start laying tiles from the bottom row. Check the position with a level or a level lath, and check several tiles at the same time. They must lie strictly in the same plane.
Step 3. The tiles are placed on an uneven surface; it is impossible to use a comb. Apply the glue with a spatula along the edges and in the center of the tile, about one centimeter thick. Next, the tile must be pressed and moved left and right until the position is leveled. The final adjustment is made with a level. Don't forget to use crosses. Some beginners install crosses flat on the four corners of the joint. This should not be done for several reasons. Firstly, it is much more difficult to level the tile; the cross will constantly move the nearby one. Secondly, there will be problems with removing the cross; you will have to pick out each one with a knife.
Step 4. No experience - use plastic elements in corners and joints, they make the work much easier.
Step 5. After about two hours you can start. The color of the material should be in harmony with the tiles and the overall design of the room. Excess grout is removed with a damp cloth or sponge. Do not wait until it is completely dry; dry material is difficult to clean.
Finishing with OSB boards or plasterboard
Finishing with slabs is much simpler than laying ceramic tiles. How is it done?
Step 1. Take the dimensions of the frame and mark the slab. As a rule, the length of the bathtub exceeds the length of the slab; it will have to be joined. This possibility must be foreseen during the manufacture of the frame and a vertical stand must be installed at the joining point.
Cut off all the blanks. Drywall is easily cut with a mounting knife; for OSB you will need a hand-held electric saw or jigsaw.
Step 2. Fix the elements one by one with self-tapping screws, and work carefully with the drywall. When the self-tapping screws are tightened with great force, their heads fall inside the plaster, and new ones have to be screwed in.
Step 3. Screw small hinges where the door is installed. Check the functionality of the door.
Step 4. Proceed with finishing surfaces. You can use ceramic tiles - it takes a long time and is expensive. There is an easier option - cover the surfaces with self-adhesive decorative film, on sale today huge selection- cheap and beautiful. In addition, you can easily change the pattern or repair the coating in case of mechanical damage. But the film also has a drawback - the surface must be perfectly flat.
Practical advice. Do not try to immediately glue the film without air pockets, it is almost impossible to do. Removing air is simple - pierce the pocket in several places with a needle and remove the air by smoothing the pocket.
Plastic lining
The option is not the best. It is recommended to use if the bathroom walls are lined with clapboard. The installation process is standard. The problem arises with the technological hole and the door. Practitioners recommend making them from OSB from plasterboard and not wasting time on lining.
How to make sliding doors
Very simple and functional option screen. For manufacturing you will need two guides and an MDF board. The disadvantage of this material is that there is a possibility of spontaneous deformation. You can get rid of it only by making a separate small frame for the doors. It is advisable to use thin wooden slats; MDF is glued to them with special glue.
Step 1. Make a frame from a metal profile; we have described the algorithm for making such structures. Check the position of all elements.
Important. For a sliding screen, it is especially important to maintain the parameters; the racks must be strictly vertical.
Step 2. Attach the guides to the frame. They can be aluminum or plastic.
Step 3. Measure the exact distance between the guides; the spread in parallelism cannot exceed 1–2 mm. Otherwise, the doors will jam when opening/closing.
Step 4. Cut out the doors of the required size from the MDF board. For overlap, 2–3 cm is enough. You can cut the slab with an electric jigsaw or a hacksaw. Work carefully, place emphasis on the bottom - this will reduce the hairiness of the cut.
Step 5. Bevel the cut. Use sandpaper or a cylindrical sander. Install handles.
There is another way. It is the most reliable, but also the most labor-intensive. It is advisable to use it before covering the walls; if they are already finished, then the work becomes somewhat more complicated.
Step 1. Remove the row of ceramic tiles at the level of the bathtub rim. If it breaks, there's nothing to worry about. Put a new one in its place and make a pattern around the bathtub, this will only improve the appearance.
Step 2. On the wall, draw a line for the position of the upper plane of the side of the bathtub, at a distance of about 2 cm, draw another line. It indicates the position of the protruding side part of the side.
Step 3. Make a groove in the wall along lines approximately 1 cm deep.
Step 4. Apply sealant to the ends of the rim and place the bathtub in place. The edges should fit slightly into the groove; remove excess sealant.
The tiles were laid, decorative ceramic plinth was used to match the tiles
This method completely guarantees the tightness of the junction; water will never get behind the bathtub.
Use any method that does not present difficulties for you. If the technology is not violated, then the tightness of the junction of the bathtub with the wall will be sufficient.
Video - Installing a steel bathtub
Comfortable living in the house is out of the question. This room is the “face” of every person. Its appearance speaks of the wealth of the family, the style of the owner and his neatness. Everyone knows that the central place in the bathroom is the bathtub, which is directly used for hygiene procedures.
It is important not only to choose correctly, but also to install the container. Therefore, you need to know how to fix the bathtub correctly by holding renovation work in the room. Of course, you can use the services of specialists, but it is quite possible to install the tank yourself.
So, let's look at how modern plumbing fixtures made of different materials.
Current bath installation methods
The method of installing a bathtub directly depends on its location. So how do you secure a bathtub?
- Fastening to walls and floors. One of the most common installation methods for angular plumbing installations. Often also used when installing a bowl in a prepared niche.
- Fastening to the floor. In this case, the container is installed at a distance from the walls.
Depending on the type of fasteners used, there are the following methods for mounting the container:
- Adjustable or not adjustable legs. Perfect option for securing cast iron or steel bathtubs, which are often supplied with such supports.
- On brickwork. A universal solution for metal bathtubs, which guarantees the stability and reliability of the structure as a whole.
- On adjustable supports or metal structures. This option is often used for installing acrylic plumbing fixtures.
Let's take a closer look at the most popular ways to properly secure a bathtub.
Features of installing a steel bath
A steel bathtub is an acceptable option for many apartments and houses. Plumbing stores offer a wide range of choices of these products. The choice of capacity parameters directly depends on the area and the wishes of the owners. The standard configuration includes bathtubs measuring 0.75 m by 1.7 m.
When choosing such plumbing equipment, remember that it is characterized by heavy weight. It significantly complicates installation and places special demands on the stability and strength of fasteners.
The product instructions indicate that such a container must be installed on special legs. Having these supports makes installation much easier. It is necessary to properly secure the supports, which often come with plumbing fixtures. The bath is ready for installation.
But often such containers are installed on brickwork. How to fix the bathtub in this case?
Features of installing a steel bathtub on brickwork
The masonry provides good rigidity compared to using standard legs.
- So, the arrangement of the bathroom begins with unpacking the container itself. We compare its parameters with the dimensions of the seat.
- Remember, in order to install the container correctly, quickly and efficiently, it is necessary that the distance between the wall and the sides of the bowl be at least 2.5 cm. This requirement does not apply to the installation of corner baths.
- We install the bowl on previously prepared spacer bars. They should be located close to the wrong side of the sides.
- We connect the siphon correctly.
- Using a spirit level (level), we check the location of the bowl relative to the horizon. If necessary, level the container by changing the angle of the spacers.
- The brickwork must initially be laid under the part of the bathtub where the legs of the structure were to be located.
- The last row of masonry must be placed close to the wall of the bathtub. For this purpose, pieces of brick are used.
- We leave the masonry to dry for several days. Then we check the struts and the stability of the structure.
- Along the perimeter of the brick bathtub we lay a screen right under the rim.
Many people believe that this is the most reliable and relatively inexpensive way to fix a bathroom.
Do you need a screen?
You can also cover the brick screen with tiles to match the walls.
Remember that the screen will serve more than just a decorative function. It also provides additional rigidity to the entire structure. When constructing a side, try to ensure that the masonry is adjacent to its lower part along the perimeter. This will prevent the bowl from skewing if suddenly the lower supports are not strong enough.
This method of installing a bathroom is only relevant for metal. Therefore, it should not be used for acrylic bowl.
Attaching the bathtub to the wall and floor
Installation of a metal structure on brickwork is quite simple. But how to fix the bathtub to the wall and to the floor?
The metal bath must be installed on a standard supporting structure.
It may happen that the studs of the support legs are slightly smaller than the previously assumed size. In other words, if, for example, it was planned to install a container with a side height of 60 cm, and a bathtub with inverted legs reaches a height of 57 cm.
This problem can be easily solved by cutting required thickness pieces of tiles. Their glued elements at the location of the legs will allow you to securely fasten the bathtub.
Afterwards, you need to measure the location of the lower edge of the side and install the metal profile according to the markings made earlier.
We seal the fasteners along the wall with silicone. To do this, apply silicone sealant in the upper part of the profile, retreating 1-2 mm.
We move it to the wall so that its supports are in a certain place. If you glued additional pieces of tile, you need to install the bathtub no sooner than after 24 hours. After all, the silicone must completely polymerize.
We sorted out the metal bathtub. How to fix an acrylic bathtub, which is especially popular today?
Installing an acrylic corner bathtub on supports
Acrylic bathtubs are particularly popular today. The main advantage is low weight. But how to fix an acrylic bathtub? To the wall or on standard supports?
Installation of a bathtub made of this material on supports occurs in the following sequence:
- The product is removed from the packaging.
- It is necessary to lay a blanket or carpet on the floor, which will preserve the glossy surface from scratches. The bowl is turned over onto the covered floor.
- We measure the sides of the bathtub and compare them with the dimensions of the seat. A corner bath should always be installed correctly. In this case, the two walls that form the seat must converge with each other at right angles. Otherwise, there will be a gap between the walls and the bathroom, which is quite difficult to cover with something.
- We prepare all the components for making the bathtub frame.
- We lay out all the components separately. This will make it easier to reach them. So how do you secure the legs of a bathtub?
- Carefully insert plugs into the ends of the legs. We snap them well.
- We screw the studs into the adjusting legs (which have threads inside them).
- Screw 2 locknuts onto the studs.
- We assemble the profile from which the frame itself will be made in the future.
- The profile has a hole in the insert. The adjusting leg pin is screwed into it.
- The first locknut must be screwed tightly to the profile, the second - to the leg. This way the structure will be not only stable, but also reliable.
- We install the profiles on the bowl. We fasten them with self-tapping screws, which are included in the kit.
- When assembling the second profile, you need to prepare long and short pins.
- The smaller stud must be screwed in with locknuts using the same principle as the legs.
- But the pancake pin needs to be screwed on the side of the profile, which should be located on the side of the protrusion of the side of the bowl itself.
- We install the plastic legs on both sides on a longer screwed-in pin. Thus, one leg of the bowl should rest on the floor, and the other should rest on the side of the acrylic container.
- After installing the legs on both sides, tighten the nuts. Please note that after installing the support legs on the profile, their plugs must be placed at the same level. Using a ruler, you can check the location of the extreme points of the supporting legs. To do this, it is enough to measure the distance from the surface of the plug to the surface of the profile.
- We can assume that the acrylic bathtub is ready. The assembled structure can be turned over and installed in a prepared place.
- Using a level, check the position of the bowl. If necessary, align the legs by loosening the nuts on the supports.
Reinforced fastening of an acrylic bathtub
The above methods for securing a bathtub are considered the most popular. But the acrylic bowl can be secured in another way. After all, long-term operation of the bathtub on supports shows that this installation method has one drawback. Under the weight of a person, the bowl crunches in the area between the reinforced profiles. What to do if the bathtub is shaking? How to secure it correctly?
This minor drawback is not critical, but it is advisable to eliminate it. To do this, you need to prepare standard foam concrete blocks measuring 250 mm by 625 mm.
When you decide to install the bathtub on blocks, pay attention to the placement of the profile mounting frame. It must be spaced at a distance of 65 cm.
Foam concrete blocks must be installed under the bowl on mounting foam. After the foam has completely hardened, the bath will become motionless and stop crunching.
This method of installing a bathtub requires a minimum of financial costs, because you only need to purchase a bottle of foam and a few bricks.
Features of manufacturing the reinforced fastener design
So, installation work consists of performing sequential actions:
- Raise the bathtub to its maximum height using the adjusting supports.
- We blow strips of polyurethane foam along the perimeter of the future brick laying.
- We apply foam to the brick and lay it on the floor.
- We lower the bowl onto the foam using adjustable supports, which we secure with nuts.
- After 24 hours you can use the plumbing.
For better adhesion of the foam to the floor or brick, it is recommended to pre-moisten the surface with water from a spray bottle.
Remember that when you secure an object, you significantly complicate repairs and installation work generally. What else do you need to pay attention to before fixing the bathtub to its feet?
Stack of water
Correct device drainage of water is necessary for the normal functionality of plumbing in the bathroom. It depends not only on the parameters of the siphon, as many non-professionals believe. The main condition of the stack must be met: all siphon tubes and the drain must be located above the level of the sewer pipe.
A large height difference will allow water to drain faster. Thanks to fast current the liquid will be able to automatically clean the pipeline. As a result, you will have to do repairs and preventive inspections less often.
Remember: before attaching the bowl, you must raise the adjustable legs as high as possible. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the height does not affect the comfort of using the bathroom. The distance between the floor and the sides of the bathroom should be optimal.
Choosing a hose in a siphon
Experts recommend replacing flexible corrugated hoses in the siphon with smooth ones plastic pipes. Of course, it’s easier to work with them, because you don’t need to observe dimensions, they can be quickly bent in any position. But dirt accumulates in the folds of the corrugation, which is difficult to remove by simple washing. If the siphon is frequently disassembled, it may suffer rubber seals and even threaded connections. As a result, serious damage occurs, which subsequently requires replacement of the entire device.
And if the bathtub is attached to the floor, then all repair work is extremely difficult. Experts recommend purchasing siphons in which the function of a sump is performed by an ordinary bend of the tube. This way the smell will not enter the room, and blockages will be much less common. And if they occur, there is no need to disassemble the structure; it is enough to use a regular plunger.
Bath quality
Experienced plumbers recommend giving preference to imported bathtub manufacturers. Unfortunately, modern domestic bowls cannot be characterized high quality. This applies not only to the coating, but also to the geometry of the product.
In domestic products, the corners of the sides are rarely straight. And an error of a few degrees over a long length can turn into several millimeters. Therefore, in this case, a wedge-shaped gap often forms between the flat wall and the side of the bowl. It is not recommended to hide it with silicone sealant, because the error will be too visible. In this case, ceramic or plastic special skirting boards are used, which must be mounted on fixed surfaces. The corners peel off at the slightest vibration. It is not recommended to re-glue them.
Conclusion
Arranging a bathroom is an important task that every owner who has some experience in the construction industry can handle. Now you know how to fix a bathtub to the wall without difficulty.