The creation and repair of a heating system, as a rule, involves the replacement or installation heating devices. Fortunately, if you wish, you can carry out this work yourself, saving a lot of money. In what order should the installation of heating radiators be carried out, what is necessary to complete the work and what nuances may await during repairs - we will tell you about this in our article.
What do you need for installation?
Installation of any heating radiator does not take place without purchasing certain Supplies and use special devices. At the same time, regardless of the type, the set necessary materials almost always remains identical. The differences are only in small points, for example, larger plugs are used to install a cast iron battery, an automatic air vent is placed above the system, and the Mayevsky tap is not used at all.
Unlike cast iron products, the installation of bimetallic and aluminum heating radiators is carried out in the same way.
As for the placement of steel panel products, the installation procedure has slight differences affecting the moment of hanging the battery. IN in this case the kit must include brackets, in addition, with reverse side must be present metal temples, by means of which the heating device is installed by the hooks of the brackets.
Shut-off valves
During the installation of a heating radiator, a pair of shut-off or ball valves is also required. In the first case, they must be regulated. The products are placed at the output and input of each battery.
Ordinary ball valves are used for emergency repairs to turn off and dismantle the radiator, for example, for a moment heating season. With this approach, even if something goes wrong during repair, the system will still function without the part being repaired. The main advantage of this solution is the low cost of ball valves. But on the other hand, you deprive yourself of the ability to adjust heat transfer.
Shut-off control valves do almost the same thing, with one exception - they can also adjust the intensity of coolant flow. Of course, here the price will be slightly higher, but this will make it possible to change the heat transfer in the future. In addition, externally similar devices look much better, especially in angular and straight versions. The result is a neater binding.
Nearby if necessary ball valve can be installed on the coolant supply thermostat. He represents himself small element, which makes it possible to adjust the heat transfer of the battery. However, if your heating radiator itself does not heat the room well, then you should not install a thermostat! Otherwise, the flow will decrease and the battery will heat up even worse.
Today there are different kinds thermostats, ranging from electronic automatic to conventional mechanical. The latter, by the way, are used in homes more often than others.
Stub
At lateral connection Radiators usually have 4 outlets. One of them is covered with a plug, the second is equipped with a Mayevsky tap, the remaining two are allocated for the return and supply pipelines. Like the vast majority of modern heating radiators, the product is usually painted with white enamel, pleasantly complementing the interior of the house.
Automatic air vent or Mayevsky tap
These elements are small devices for releasing air accumulated in the radiator. Installation is carried out on the collector, mandatory when using bimetallic and aluminum radiators. The dimensions of the device are significantly smaller than the diameter of the collector, which may require an additional adapter. However, Mayevsky taps are usually supplied with adapters. The only thing that is required from the buyer is to know exactly the diameter of the collector.
As for automatic air vents, they are also installed on radiators. Compared to Mayevsky taps, they have larger dimensions, which is why they are made only of nickel and brass. Over time, air vents may become coated with enamel, damaging appearance radiator Based on this, the installation of these elements is not carried out so often.
Additional tools and materials
In addition to the listed elements, for installing and hanging heating radiators you will definitely need brackets and hooks. Moreover, their number will directly depend on the dimensions of the battery itself:
- If the dimensions of the product do not exceed 1.2 meters or the number of sections does not exceed 8, then a pair of fixation points will be sufficient - one at the bottom and one at the top;
- Every next 5-6 sections or 50 centimeters in length require the use of an additional retainer at the bottom and top.
To seal the connections, you will need fum tape, plumbing paste or linen winding.
At the same time, during work you cannot do without dowels, a level and a drill with drill bits. In addition, special equipment will be required to secure fittings and pipes, although this will largely depend on the type of pipe.
Radiator mounting location
It is customary that heating systems are located under the window. This is necessary to cut off cold air from the window with warm air rising upward. You can avoid window fogging due to the dimensions of the heating device, where the width should not exceed 70-75 percent of the window width. During installation, the following parameters must be taken into account:
- The distance from wall to wall should be from 2 to 5 centimeters;
- In the center of the window opening, where the maximum permissible deviation should not exceed 2 cm;
- The gap to the window sill is 10-12 centimeters;
- Between the floor and the radiator - 8-12 centimeters.
Battery installation procedure
Now let's talk about how to properly install heating radiators. The work will be much easier if the surface of the wall behind the battery is as smooth as possible.
The middle of the opening is marked on the site, and a horizontal line is drawn under the window sill at a distance of 10-12 cm. The heating device will be aligned along this line in the future. The brackets should be placed in such a way that the top corresponds to the drawn line, in other words, remains strictly horizontal. This arrangement is acceptable for apartments and systems using forced circulation . Along the coolant flow in systems with natural circulation there is a small slope equal to 1-1.5 percent. These values cannot be exceeded, otherwise stagnation will form.
Floor installation
Typically, heating equipment is installed on walls, but it happens that they are not able to support even light-weight aluminum products. This happens when covering walls with plasterboard or light plaster concrete. In these cases, floor installation is used.
Some types of steel and cast iron radiators are initially equipped with legs, but they do not always suit the owners in terms of their characteristics and appearance.
Bimetallic and aluminum products can also be installed on the floor. This provides special brackets, which are fixed to floor surface. Next, the heating equipment is mounted, and the lower collector is installed on the legs in an arc. The legs themselves come in either a fixed leg or an adjustable one. Depending on the material, fastening can be done using dowels or nails.
Fixing to the wall
Hooks are selected depending on the type of dowels. A hole is drilled in the wall the right size, where a plastic dowel is subsequently installed. Next, the hook is screwed in. The gap between the heating device and the wall is adjusted with a hook by screwing/unscrewing.
When installing hooks, it is worth considering that most of the load will come to the top of the structure. In this case, the bottom is only needed to hold the system in the desired position. Installation is made 1.5 centimeters below the lower manifold. If this is not done, then in the future the radiator simply will not be able to be hung properly.
The brackets are placed in the place where the installation will take place. For this purpose, the first step is to attach the battery to the wall, after which the points of contact of the brackets are marked. Next, holes are drilled, dowels are driven in and brackets are screwed in. Having placed all the fasteners, the battery is then hung.
Methods for piping heating radiators
Installation of heating systems is carried out with subsequent connection to the pipeline. There are 3 main connection methods:
- Diagonal;
- One-sided;
- Saddle.
When choosing radiators with bottom connections, you don’t have much to choose from. This is due to the fact that each manufacturer himself indicates the supply and installation instructions, which must be followed! Otherwise, there will simply be no heat in the house. When choosing systems with side connections, there are noticeably more installation methods.
Saddle connection
At hidden wiring pipes or lower wiring, installation by this method is considered less noticeable in terms of the finished result and more convenient.
With a lower single-pipe distribution and a saddle connection, as a rule, 2 methods are used - without a bypass and with it. The taps can be installed without a bypass; if desired, the radiator is dismantled and a temporary jumper is placed between the taps.
Much less often this type connection is used for vertical wiring, for example, in risers in multi-storey buildings. This is explained increased heat losses, which amount to 12-15 percent.
Diagonal connection
In terms of heat transfer, a diagonal connection of heating radiators is considered the most optimal of all. Heat transfer is considered the largest.
In apartments with vertical risers and single pipe system the finished result is not the most attractive, although many residents still put up with it due to the increased efficiency.
It is important to note that a bypass will again be needed with a single-pipe system!
One way connection
In apartment conditions, a one-way connection is most often used. It can be single-pipe, which is most likely, or double-pipe. Today in apartments they are most often used metal pipes, and therefore it makes sense to analyze the method of tying steel pipes. Besides the pipes required diameter, for installation you will also need a pair of tees, ball valves and a drive.
Everything connects. Bypass is considered mandatory when using single pipe system. Using it, it is possible to turn off the radiator without the need to bleed the system. You cannot install a tap on the bypass, otherwise you will block the flow of coolant, greatly upsetting your neighbors. And in this case it will be difficult to get rid of a fine.
Threaded joints are sealed with linen winding or fum tape. Next, paste is applied on top. There is no need to use a lot of winding when screwing the tap into the manifold. If there is a large amount of it, the formation of microcracks cannot be ruled out, which will lead to further damage in the future. This point remains relevant for almost all heating products, not counting cast iron appliances.
The bypass can also be welded if you have the appropriate tools and skills.
With a two-pipe system, a bypass is not necessary. The return is connected at the bottom, the supply at the top.
This type of connection is rarely used when pipes are located at the bottom, for example, when they are laid on the floor. This is due to its not the most attractive appearance. Instead, a diagonal connection is more often used.
Knowledge of the nuances of competently carrying out the installation process of heating radiators will provide reliable, high-quality and durable heating premises.
At self-installation batteries, it is important to follow the installation rules and SNiP standards.
General rules for installing batteries yourself
Applicable to all batteries, regardless of type:
- must be done calculation of the amount of coolant, which the battery can accommodate;
- water V heating system overlaps, then the pipes are purged using a pump;
- availability is required torque wrenches;
Attention! Tighten and secure parts at your own discretion unacceptable! The circulating fluid is under pressure, so improper fastening of parts leads to unpleasant consequences.
- initially thought out and selected suitable connection option batteries;
- radiators are mounted at a certain angle to prevent the accumulation of air masses, otherwise they will have to be removed through the air vent;
- in private homes it is recommended to use pipes made from metal-plastic, in apartments - from metal;
- protective film removed from new heating devices only after installation is completed.
Stages of installing a heating radiator in an apartment with your own hands
Installation consists of next stages.
Preparing tools
You will need:
Choosing the right place
- the location of the heating device is selected in the center of the window opening;
Important! The battery must cover at least 70% of the opening. The middle is marked, and from it the lengths are laid out to the right and left and marks are made for fastenings.
- floor clearance not less than 8 cm and not more than 14 cm;
- To prevent the thermal power indicator from sinking, the battery must be located at a distance from the window sill about 11 cm;
- from the back of the radiator to the wall not less than 5 cm, such a distance will ensure good heat convection.
More accurate indentations are calculated by carefully selecting a specific type of battery and calculating the number of sections.
Preparing for connection
Examine the walls for possible defects. If there gaps and cracks, they are filled cement mortar . After drying, the foil insulation is fixed.
The variety of wall finishing options is quite extensive.
Selecting a connection diagram
Exists 3 connection options radiators for the heating system:
- bottom method, fastening is made at the bottom of the heating source, on its different sides;
- lateral (one-sided) connection, most often used with a vertical type of wiring with entry into one of the sides of the battery;
- diagonal connection implies the location of the supply pipe on top of the battery, and the return pipe on the opposite side from the bottom.
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Process description
Subsequence:
Reference! At this stage as additional element can be installed thermostats, allowing you to control coolant flow.
- fixing the radiator to brackets;
- accession outlet and supply pipes performed using threading, welding, pressing and crimping;
- control assembled system: water is supplied under weak pressure to check for possible leaks and assembly flaws.
How to properly install different types of radiators
The installation of each type of battery has its own nuances.
Cast iron
The difference from the standard circuit is that for batteries of this type sections are initially formed using a radiator key.
Nipples are impregnated with drying oil and fixed manually for 2 threads. In this case, a gasket must be used. Then the radiator keys are inserted into the nipple holes and tightened.
Important! The collection of sections must be carried out with an assistant, since simultaneous rotation of nipples may lead to misalignment.
After crimping the battery, a layer of primer is applied to it and painted.
Aluminum
Passes By standard scheme one of three options connections.
The only caveat is that aluminum batteries are fixed both on the wall and on the floor. For the last option use special clamping rings on the legs.
By adjusting the distances of the radiator from the wall, floor and window sill, you can increase or decrease the level of heat transfer from the battery.
When installing aluminum heating sources refer to the attached instructions. If the recommendations indicate the use of coolant, then you should use it exclusively.
Mounting the screen in front of the radiator will increase the degree of efficiency.
Such batteries are suitable for installation in private homes with autonomous heating.
Steel
Important point in connection - horizontal check batteries. Any deviation will reduce work efficiency.
In addition to wall brackets, they are used floor stands for additional fixation.
Otherwise, standard connection diagrams are used.
Bimetallic
In such batteries it is allowed building up or removing unnecessary sections. They are already painted. The sections are pulled together in stages from below and from above, without distortions.
Attention! The area where the sealing gasket under the nipple is located must not be stripped. sandpaper or file.
As with the standard scheme, pre-treatment of the wall is required.
In order to keep the apartment warm and comfortable during the cold season, it is necessary to install the batteries efficiently. An important stage is correct connection all elements. The norms and basic rules are prescribed in the legislation, and it would be useful to familiarize yourself with them. If you have the desire and opportunity, you can do the installation yourself.
Features and types of heating systems
How warm the apartment will be depends on what type of heating system is installed in the room.
They can be divided into 3 main types according to the connection diagram:
- single-pipe;
- two-pipe;
- collector
As for the one-pipe system, in this case the coolant flows through one pipe to all batteries, and ultimately returns through it after it has cooled. This option is the easiest to install, and for this reason it is used in all multi-storey buildings. However, there are also disadvantages, in particular, when moving to other radiators, the coolant cools down more and more, and accordingly, less heat enters the room. In addition, you cannot disconnect only one battery for repairs; in this case, you will have to shut off the entire riser.
At two-pipe system The coolant flows through one pipe, but separately to all batteries. In this situation, all radiators are heated evenly, and the cooled water goes through a separate pipe into the boiler, where it is heated again. If replacement is necessary, there is no need to disconnect the riser; it is enough to shut off only one battery, which simplifies the work compared to the previous option.
The system using a collector is used mainly in cottages and is much more complex. In this case, they go to each radiator individual pipes. System installation on our own is impossible, the work of specialists is required.
The batteries themselves, depending on the material of manufacture, can be:
- bimetallic;
- aluminum;
- cast iron;
- steel.
Bimetallic include elements made from various metals, and are often used in apartments. They have good heat transfer, are easy to install, but at the same time have quite high price. Working pressure – 35 atm.
Aluminum batteries also do not create installation problems and dissipate heat well. Due to pressure up to 18 atm, they are often installed in multi-storey buildings. Radiators are resistant to corrosion, but they cannot be mounted with copper pipes, since the bases may react, leading to the destruction of both elements.
Cast iron batteries are most often used in old housing stock, where there are few floors, since their pressure reaches only 12 atm. They are installed quite rarely in apartments. Radiators have significant weight, which creates difficulties during installation; in addition, they heat up and cool down for a long time. Among the advantages are their strength and long service life.
Steel radiators are reasonably priced and suitable for apartment buildings. Among the disadvantages, consumers note a short service life - about 15-20 years. And also in this case there is no possibility to expand additional sections. Easy to install and can be installed with any pipes.
Depending on the material of manufacture, differences appear in the installation process of radiators. Due to their strength, cast iron heating elements are more resistant to mechanical stress; others require careful handling. Installation should be carried out exclusively on walls made of brick and concrete; if there is a plasterboard wall nearby, a special stand is required.
In modern models it is necessary to provide a Mayevsky tap.
Connection methods
SNiP prescribes the basic rules for installing heating radiators. The ability of the radiator to withstand pressure is important. The manufacturing material should not react with the pipes that are supplied to the product in order to avoid corrosion processes. The battery should be placed 10 centimeters below the protruding part of the window sill to release heat flow.
The distance between the floor and the bottom of the radiator should be more than 10 and less than 15 centimeters. This is a fundamental issue, otherwise the processes of uniform heat transfer will be disrupted. All sections must be connected evenly and have no significant differences in height.
In order for heat transfer to occur most efficiently, it is important to place the heating radiator correctly. Experts recommend placing it under windows in order to minimize heat loss through these areas. In the case when there is an external cold wall, it is recommended to place additional devices on it.
In general, batteries in an apartment can be located in several ways:
- lateral location;
- lower;
- diagonal;
- sequential.
The most popular is the side arrangement of batteries. It is characterized by high heat transfer. The pipe through which it goes hot water, is inserted into the upper pipe, and the outlet comes from the lower one. In the case of bottom placement, both pipes are located at the bottom. The diagram is relevant if the pipes are located in the floor or under the baseboard.
Diagonal is used when the battery has a large number of sections, 12 or more. The coolant enters through the top pipe and exits from the bottom. Sequential is relevant when plumbing system has sufficient pressure for hot water to flow through all radiators.
In cases where installation is necessary additional radiator, first you need to remove the coolant from the system. After securing the brackets, the radiator is attached, the connections are secured with a special key. You need to install a Mayevsky tap on the free hole, and close all the others with a plug. Next, you should attach the battery itself and carefully align it. After this, the remaining elements are brought in and everything is connected into a single system, which must be absolutely sealed.
Substitution rules
There are times when radiators need replacement.
This can happen in two situations:
- battery failure;
- replacing old radiators with new ones.
In the event of a breakdown, it is necessary to notify the Housing Office and the Department of Economic Protection. Representatives of these organizations are required to visit the apartment, conduct an inspection and confirm that it is impossible to restore the old radiator and it needs to be replaced.
It may happen that during repairs or for other reasons, residents decided to replace old heating radiators with more modern ones. modern models. In this case, the owner must be ready to undergo approval measures. Without agreement management company and documents confirming this fact, batteries cannot be replaced.
Representatives of the above organization must take part in the work process, otherwise such actions threaten a number of problems.
IN First of all, the parameters of the heating system of the whole house may change. Moreover, in order to install new radiator, it is necessary to block the entire riser, and this action can only be done by employees of the management company. If you do this yourself, the violator may face a considerable fine. But you also need to know temperature regime, which will directly affect how much heat the device will give off, and, accordingly, the favorable microclimate in the room.
After completing all the documents, you can purchase necessary elements and devices. Next, the installation date is agreed upon, in accordance with which the work is carried out. Our specialists will help you properly connect, configure and run your heating system.
Preparatory work
Before starting work on installing heating devices, you need to clarify the type of wiring by which the system is organized. This determines which parts and in what quantities will be required during the installation process. The work site should be prepared, as well as the necessary tools.
The first thing to start with is blocking the riser. If there are old batteries, they need to be disconnected, drained of all water, and then disconnected from the heating system.
If necessary, you should use a pump, which can be used to remove as much liquid as possible from the radiator.
When the coolant is removed, you should determine the places where the heating element will be attached. Next, the brackets are installed. You will need 2 or 3 of them to secure the top of the battery, as well as a pair to hold the bottom. The location of the brackets must be checked using a special level. After this, the site can be considered ready for work.
Installation
After preparatory work completed, you can start direct installation heating devices that need to be placed on brackets. If the installation of the brackets is done correctly, the rear wall of the radiator will fit closely to the supports and will be securely fixed to them. When installing the battery itself, you need to take into account that it is necessary to maintain a slight slope, which will be about 3 millimeters per 1 meter of the heating device.
The batteries are installed, pipes and fittings are connected to them, and all this is carefully secured. How well the work is carried out will determine how tight the system will be. Next, you can open the riser and fill it with water. This will allow you to check how tight the connections are.
When installing heating devices with your own hands, you need to pay attention Special attention installation of shut-off and control elements. The installation of a Mayevsky tap is mandatory, because it is he who will subsequently play the main role in bleeding air at the beginning of the heating season. The element should be located near the highest point.
When working with a one-pipe system, it is necessary to install a bypass, which has a valve, in contrast to a two-pipe system, when the connection occurs only with the discharge, which also has a valve. The bends are attached to the pipes using torque wrenches. Such keys are not included in the kit; when installing a radiator, specialists bring this tool with them. If the work is carried out independently, you will need to buy keys, since the work cannot be completed without them. This element ensures reliable tightening of fasteners.
A few days ago, my old client, let’s call him Andrey, whose batteries I recently changed, called me with an unusual question.
The crux of the matter was this: he and his friend decided on one's own replace old batteries. They knew in a nutshell how and what was needed for this, and Andrei generally observed my actions when I was working. If there was something unclear, he always asked, and I, without hiding too much, told him in detail the features of the work. But, here’s how to correctly make the markings and make sure that the centers of the radiator and pipe axes coincide - they didn’t pay attention. That's why they turned to me.
To be honest, I never expected this. I didn’t expect that someday someone would need this and would have to explain over the phone how to make the markings. I never thought it was so difficult. Of course, for me everything looks simple: I removed old battery, marked, drilled holes, drove brackets into them and hung the radiator. But everything is simple only for me, a person who changes batteries almost every day, like, for example, for each of us to wash our face in the morning
In the evening, Andrey sent a letter of gratitude and photographs of the work done. It turned out great, no worse than mine.
This life episode is firmly embedded in my memory. Probably, Andrey is not the only person who has encountered such a problem. Therefore, I decided to tell you in more detail how I mark and install brackets for aluminum or bimetallic radiators.
How to prepare for replacing a radiator, what is needed for replacement and what tools are needed, I wrote here. I won’t repeat myself, but will get straight to the point. Having dismantled the old battery, we will see the following picture:
On a horizontal pipe, unscrew the couplings; if there are no couplings, cut the threads and install transition connections. In this case, replacement is made with polypropylene pipes. I use flax and Unipak paste as a sealing material for carvings.
Now we place the radiator near the window. Some people like it when the radiator hangs in the center of the window, others move it closer to the edge. How exactly to place it is your choice.
Personally, I like it when the radiator hangs in the center.
By the way, the question is often asked: how many brackets are needed for a radiator? Practice has shown that for aluminum radiator up to 12 sections - three fastening points are enough: two on top and one on the bottom. And if there are more than twelve sections, then four attachment points will be needed. And yet, bimetallic radiators are heavier, so such radiators of up to 10 sections are installed on three brackets. Well, if there are more than 10 sections, then four.
We move the radiator to the side; we won’t need it for now. Let's take it building level, place it in the center of the horizontal pipe on which the adapter coupling was previously installed, and make a mark on the wall. There is no need to calculate the center with a ruler; it is enough to determine it by eye.
Approximately one centimeter below our mark we draw a horizontal line. Brackets will be installed on this line. Why lower? In order for the centers of the radiator and pipe axes to coincide.
Now we draw vertical lines to this line. It will turn out like this:
It remains to note the location of the lower central bracket. We mark 50 cm from the top line and make a mark.
We drill holes, insert dowels and screw the brackets into them. Of course, you can simply hammer in the brackets, because as popular wisdom says: “A hammered self-tapping screw holds better than a twisted nail.”
It is best to choose a flat bracket for the radiator, with a dowel. Unlike other brackets, these allow you to easily adjust the distance of the radiator from the wall and align it in planes.
If necessary, align the radiator by bending the bracket up or down.
When adjusting the radiator, do not forget to monitor the axes of the radiator and pipe, they must be at the same level.
Of course, before hanging the radiator on the brackets, it needs to be “assembled”, i.e. install fittings, taps and adapter couplings.
After all the manipulations, you will get a radiator correctly installed along the axes. Ready for connection and further use, but this is already quite
P.S. Still, replacing heating radiators requires certain knowledge and skills, as well as a set the necessary tool. If you have neither one nor the other, but still have the desire to replace the radiators, you can contact me for help. To do this, just call 903-36-05, send an email [email protected] or leave a request on the Golden Hands website and I will call you back.
Attaching heating radiators to the wall is a fairly simple process and does not require specialized skills from the installer. It is enough to know some basics of fluid circulation inside the heating system, functional purpose each element, and have an idea of how to properly position the battery in the room to ensure the most efficient heat transfer without loss. This interesting process will be the subject of this article.
Instructions for mounting to the wall for heating radiators will be discussed in the second part of the article. In the meantime, let's talk about modern radiators, what they are like, and what properties they have.
Cast iron radiators
The kings of the “Russian style” are cast iron radiators. They have been manufactured for hundreds of years, but they are still popular among buyers. Models such as those shown in the photo above are considered elite, and it is quite difficult to see them on the shelves of regular hardware stores.
The situation is similar with budget models, but, nevertheless, we are all familiar with these radiators. Many of us still have simplified versions of these products in our apartments from the recent Soviet past, which few people are in a hurry to exchange for more modern, aesthetic analogues. And the point here is not at all that people cannot afford something else.
The reason is that cast iron batteries have a number of advantages over other competitors:
- High corrosion resistance– due to constant contact with liquid, a coating forms on the inner walls of cast iron radiators, which is called “dry rust”. This is a kind of coating that protects the metal from destruction.
- High heat dissipation– this indicator for cast iron is twice as high as those for steel radiators.
- Immunity to chemical composition water circulating in the heating system - cast iron batteries have thick collector walls, so they are not afraid of acid and salt impurities in the coolant.
- Life time of this product is 40-50 years old. Due to the fact that the diameter of the internal collectors of a cast iron radiator is much higher than that of steel, aluminum and other analogues, rust, scale and other foreign fragments that inevitably form in the system during operation can easily circulate in the system.
- Acceptable cost, not counting models released famous brands, is also an advantage of these batteries. Well, as for the aesthetics of this plumbing fixture, then creative approach it can even become an interior decoration. Above you can see a nice example of finishing an old radiator.
All listed battery characteristics are provided chemical properties cast iron
But, like any other material, cast iron radiators have their drawbacks:
- Very heavy product weight – this feature significantly complicates the climb to the floor and the installation process, which will require at least two strong people;
- Low aesthetics– this especially applies to models from the budget segment, which can be correctly integrated into modern interior, quite a difficult task;
- High heating time– this fact is the reason that cast iron batteries are not suitable for rooms where continuous heating is not required, for example, a country house.