Roof insulation in a wooden house is the most effective way to save heat. Rules for insulating the roof of a wooden house Wooden roof with insulation composition

The construction of wooden houses is gaining popularity again, because many people like their unique air with a special aroma of wood. If for some reason the building was not insulated during construction, this must be corrected. To keep warmth in a wooden house, it is necessary to make thermal insulation of all surfaces: floors, walls, ceilings and roofs. In this article we will talk about how insulation occurs. wooden roof with your own hands, using the most common methods.

The need to insulate a wooden roof

By itself, wood is an excellent heat-insulating material. And when operating a residential building, you should use these properties and try not to disturb the natural convection of air in the rooms. Due to the thermal insulation of the roof made of wood, the beams of the house floor will be protected from decay and will not deteriorate ahead of time.

If the wooden roof is not properly insulated and the movement of air flows is disturbed, then dampness will occur, fungus and other unpleasant consequences will appear on the rafters, floor beams and ceiling.
To prevent this from happening, you need to carefully consider the choice heat-insulating material, taking into account that the roofs are wooden and brick houses are very different from each other. Therefore, the materials used to insulate brick buildings are not suitable for wooden houses.

You should use special heat-insulating materials for warming wooden roofs, which differ long period operation, resistance to moisture and various loads, the ability to prevent the formation of cracks and deformation, the absence of the risk of shrinkage, as this leads to the formation of cold bridges.

For many years, straw was considered the best insulation for wooden roofs. Today there is a wider choice of materials for the thermal insulation of the roofs of wooden houses. Since wooden houses can easily ignite, it is customary to use materials that are not flammable, such as fiberglass and mineral wool.

Features of wooden roof insulation

If the house was recently built, insulation should not be carried out until shrinkage occurs. wooden structure. After construction, at least a year must pass. In this case, you must completely complete the roofing. take on thermal insulation works is possible only after eliminating all the defects that appeared as a result of subsidence at home.

If residential building for many years, it is necessary to approach the insulation of the roof of a wooden house more thoroughly. If the roof has leaked and been exposed to temperature fluctuations and moisture for a long time, it may be necessary to overhaul or its new cover. Carefully inspect all places whose integrity you have raised doubts, and check the wood for decay.

But if the attic will be used as an attic or as a pantry, or if winters are too severe in your area, then it is not enough just to insulate the wooden roof, you need to simultaneously insulate both the roof and the floors between the attic and living quarters. Be sure to insulate both the ceiling inside the house and the floor of the attic.

Arranging a wooden roof attic type, it is desirable to combine thermal insulation with a special reflective film, which is made on an aluminum base. The side covered with a reflective composition is attached from the outside. The main purpose of the film lies in the reflection of ultraviolet rays in the summer months during the activity of the sun, which should reduce the heating of the air in the attic.

Do-it-yourself wooden roof insulation

It is not necessary to be a qualified builder to perform work related to roof insulation. It is enough to watch a video about the insulation of a wooden roof and understand that you cannot save on heat-insulating materials.

Roof insulation with mineral wool

Insulation of a wooden roof with mineral wool is highly efficient and durable. The low weight of mineral wool determines the minimum mechanical load on roof structure. Mineral wool is suitable for long-term use and in the summer it withstands high temperatures well, unlike polystyrene.

If you plan to insulate the roof with mineral wool, then it is advisable to use mineral wool mats, and not roll material, as they do not settle over time and keep their shape better. But even when buying material in mats, it can be easily adjusted to the size of the gaps between the rafters. The material can be cut and cut.

When carrying out work, you must strictly follow the following scheme for warming a wooden roof with mineral wool:

1. The first layer is waterproofing. If you are looking for the most economical option, then it is worth using a conventional waterproofing film that does its job well. But if the effect is important to you, it is better to buy a super diffuse membrane. The insulation can be attached to it closely without making an additional crate for ventilation. Its vapor permeability is much higher than that of ordinary waterproofing.
2. Insulation. The thermal insulation material must be laid in 2 layers in the cavities that are formed by the roof rafters. It is customary to lay in a dense layer of 10-25 millimeters. Its thickness will depend on the climate in your area. The insulation must be laid so that there is a ventilation gap between it and the upper edge of the rafters, which serves to remove warm, moist air that comes from below. But at the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the heat-insulating material does not crawl out of the rafter system. slabs mineral wool cables and wires must not be covered.
3. Vapor barrier. On top of the heat-insulating material is attached to the rafters vapor barrier material, which is required to retain moisture-saturated air that rises. To exclude the penetration of moisture, it is customary to glue all the seams of the film with a special construction adhesive tape. Therefore, the insulation will be in the so-called moisture-proof "bag", but the ventilation gaps at the same time ensure the normal ingress of air. You can then lay roofing.

Thermal insulation of the roof with expanded clay

Expanded clay is called the most environmentally friendly material of all that are used for roof insulation. Therefore, it is ideal for warming a wooden roof. Such insulation is considered durable, it does not shrink and rodents do not spoil it. If you properly lay the material, then the likelihood of the formation of cold bridges is minimized.

In addition, the cost of insulating a wooden roof with expanded clay is acceptable: there is no need to invest large sums, you just need to purchase roofing felt in rolls and a sufficient amount of expanded clay.

And it is worth acting on this technology:

1. First, close all the cracks so that the material does not spill out. In this case, a special film will not work - it may not withstand the load. Therefore, it is customary to lay roofing material on the floor. In this case, an overlap should be made on the surface of the walls.
2. Load up the material. Do this carefully, because the properties of expanded clay deteriorate with intensive falling asleep: many particles can break, losing their thermal insulation abilities.
3. From above, you can also cover the insulation with roofing material, which will also act as a waterproofing material.

Roof insulation with polystyrene foam

Expanded polystyrene is not the best insulation for a residential building made of wood, but if this particular material was chosen, then you should pay attention to its combustibility group. by the most the best option of the existing four groups is G1. Expanded polystyrene with this marking burns only in contact with a source of fire.

Expanded polystyrene has a number of advantages: lightness, the possibility of cutting it without special equipment, the ability to retain heat well even at high humidity, resistance to fungus and harmful insects.

It is necessary to insulate a wooden roof with polystyrene foam in the same way as when using mineral wool. The only point: at the joints of the plates, it is imperative to fill the gaps, as shown in the photo of the insulation of the wooden roof. It is most convenient to do this with the help of mounting foam, because it is able to be evenly distributed over the entire hole without gaps. In addition, such a procedure does not take much time.

Final insulation work

If you have completely insulated a wooden house and its roof, then the ceiling must be insulated due to the characteristics of wood as a material. warm air in wooden house, rising to the ceiling, will carry with it particles of moisture that settle on the floors and ceiling and provoke the process of wood decay and mold formation. Thus, it is necessary to install a heater with waterproofing elements on the ceiling. The scheme of thermal insulation of the ceiling in a wooden house with a pitched or flat roof and an attic looks like this:

• Air cushion - free space between the heat-insulating material and the ceiling overlap to prevent the formation of condensate.
• Thermal insulation using fireproof insulating material.
• Vapor barrier - a membrane or film that prevents the penetration of capillary moisture to the ceiling.
• Interior decoration.

After that, you can proceed to the insulation of the floor in the attic, which is done as follows:

1. Eliminate gaps between beams and beams. You can caulk them with tow, jute or felt, or fill them with polyurethane foam.
2. Lay a layer of vapor barrier on the attic floor, place a layer of insulation on top of it without gaps. As a heater, you can use foam or mineral wool.
3. Sprinkle the floor surface with chalk or expanded clay, followed by a screed. If you plan to use the attic, you can equip the wooden floor.

In addition, to insulate a wooden roof, you can use penoizol or liquid polyurethane foam, which is an inexpensive and effective material. It is customary to apply it by spraying directly onto the surface to be insulated. The whole procedure takes a minimum of time. The price of insulating a wooden roof with penoizol is low. There is no need to additionally prepare or dismantle the base. The work is completed as the desired layer thickness is reached.

roof insulation - milestone in furnishing and decorating country house. This final construction protects the walls of the building from the negative effects of rain and melting snow, maintains the desired level of indoor climate and provides proper ventilation. The most important function of such a finish is to retain heat. Up to 30% of heat escapes through the roof, and high-quality reliable thermal insulation will reduce heat loss and heating costs for a country house.

When insulating a roof, consider the following:

• If you want to make a living space out of the attic, you need to completely insulate the roof. If the room is non-residential, only the attic floor and / or ceiling in the house can be insulated;
• It is impossible to carry out roof insulation in a newly built house! Any Finishing work do only after shrinkage of the log house (it takes about a year to shrink);
• When insulating the roof of an old house, you need to carefully check the design. When the roof long time exposed to moisture or leaking, make repairs, and sometimes a new floor. Check beams and wooden floors for rot and mold, if necessary, replace the products.

Before you cover the roof, you need to choose a reliable and quality material. Today you will find a lot of heaters that differ in price, quality, strength, installation complexity and other criteria. Let's figure out what materials for roof insulation are best to choose.

How to choose roof insulation

When choosing, take into account the service life of the material, the ability to maintain shape and parameters. Quality insulation must be resistant to frost and temperature extremes, protect from extraneous noise and provide good sound insulation. It is important that the materials are environmentally friendly, safe and non-combustible, suitable for the roof structure and have the right thickness.

Exist the following types heaters:

- popular and suitable insulation for a wooden house. It's inexpensive and available material which does not burn and does not absorb moisture. Mineral wool is characterized by low weight and high density, vapor permeability, quick and easy installation. The material is resistant to rodents and insects. But keep in mind that during installation it will be necessary to leave ventilation gaps in order to ensure high-quality waterproofing.

- a modern environmentally friendly material that is made on the basis of cellulose. To make ecowool meet the requirements fire safety, flame retardants are added to the composition. These substances prevent the spread of fire. Such material is distinguished by naturalness, light weight and low cost. It is suitable for warming hard-to-reach places, but it is not recommended for finishing rooms with high humidity. In addition, the disadvantages include the difficulty of laying the material between the rafters and the need to use technology.

Styrofoam- material in the form of plates with low weight and high strength, good sound and heat insulation. He is different easy installation and resistance to moisture, so expanded polystyrene is often used for finishing balconies, ground floors and other areas with high humidity. However, this is a combustible material, so it is important to choose the right combustibility group. The best option would be G1. Experts do not recommend using expanded polystyrene for wooden houses. In addition, it is not suitable for insulation flat roof.

Expanded clay- bulk insulation, which characterizes environmental friendliness and durability. Such material will not be spoiled by rodents. However, it requires a longer and complex installation. It is important to lay the material tightly so that there are no holes and gaps for the passage of air. A sufficiently large and dense layer will be required to provide proper thermal insulation. As a result, expanded clay increases the load on the foundation and building structures.

- Rigid and durable boards that are easy to cut and lay. They do not lose their shape and are characterized by high thermal insulation properties, light weight and long service life. This material suitable for roof insulation in a wooden and any other house.

Modern manufacturers also offer sprayable polyurethane foam, which is easy and quick to install. However, it requires the use of special equipment. By analogy with sprayed polyurethane foam, penoizol is also produced. By technical properties it is similar to foam, but is applied by spraying. However, penoizol absorbs moisture more than polyurethane foam or mineral wool, so enhanced waterproofing is required.

Mineral wool will be the best option with a good price-quality ratio. In addition, expanded clay and polyurethane foam are suitable, in rare cases, penoizol and polystyrene foam are used. If you decide to use mineral wool, please note that the material has varieties. So, rigid basalt mineral fiber slabs are suitable for external insulation of a flat roof, for a pitched one they use mineral wool of smaller thickness, and stone wool used to protect roofing system from fire.

There are special insulation with foil. Foil materials do not transmit or retain heat, but reflect back. Foil is waterproof and durable. It is suitable for rooms with high humidity. Today you can easily find mineral wool with foil.

The best mineral wool insulation for roofing

insulation	Advantages	Flaws	Price
rockwool (Denmark, Russia)	Increased fire safety; retains parameters and dimensions, does not crumble and does not shrink; good sound and heat insulation	Often there are fakes	from 500 rubles per package
Paroc (Finland)	Economy and environmental friendliness; protects from dust and noise; fire safety	High price	from 900 rubles per package
Isover (Australia)	Strength and elasticity, environmental friendliness and long service life, good sound insulation	During installation, special protection is required, an unpleasant odor	from 400 rubles per pack
Knauf (Russia)	High quality, good heat and sound insulation, environmental and fire safety	High price	from 700 rubles per package
Ursa	Strength and rigidity, high heat and sound insulation, does not deform or crumble	Collects dust and requires special protection during installation	from 500 rubles per package
Izovol	Increased fire safety, environmental friendliness and good sound insulation	Slightly crumbles when laying, average density, poorly cut	from 600 rubles per package
Beltep	Fire safety and environmental friendliness, vapor permeability, does not deform and retains parameters, rigidity, good heat and sound insulation	A lot of caustic dust during operation, requires the use of special equipment	from 300 rubles per package

How to insulate the ceiling of the house

The ceiling in the house must be insulated, since it, along with the floor, is the main source of heat loss. Read more on how to finish the floor in a wooden house. When insulating the ceiling, waterproofing materials are first laid. In this case, you can use the standard polyethylene film. For a stronger effect, a superdiffuse membrane is used. It will simplify installation, since then you can immediately lay the insulation.

If a film is used as waterproofing, an additional crate of ventilation bars is installed. And only then put the insulation in a dense layer overlapping with a layer of 15-25 centimeters, depending on the climate of the region. After the insulation procedures, the finishing is carried out

Options for finishing the ceiling in a country house

• Plaster - simple and available method, which will give a classic smooth and white ceiling. However, this color is not always appropriate in a wooden house;
• Drywall is suitable for complex design solutions and installation of a ceiling in two levels. At the same time, the coating is characterized by strength and ease of processing;
• Solid wood panels are expensive, as they are made from 100% elite wood. The ceiling from the massif looks soundly and prestigiously. These are very strong and durable materials that are easy to install;

• Veneer panels are much cheaper than solid wood panels, but they are not inferior in aesthetic qualities. You will find a wide range of colors and sizes of these panels. They will make the interior elegant and luxurious;
• The embossed hemmed ceiling is attached directly to the base, which simplifies installation. With the help of materials, you can create a unique ornament or pattern, which will make the design original;
• Lining - popular materials due to availability and ease of installation. The lining looks harmonious and aesthetically pleasing, suitable for any type of room. So the slats are laid on the walls and ceilings in the house and bathhouse, on the terrace and on the balcony. Use a horizontal, vertical, horizontal or combined laying method.

In a wooden house, every experienced craftsman will advise you to use only wood for decoration. It will preserve the environmental friendliness and the special atmosphere of a wooden house. wooden materials harmoniously fit into the interior, create a cozy atmosphere, will look elegant and natural. Wood “breathes” and provides oxygen access.

One of the steps of roof insulation is the insulation of the attic floor. First of all, you need to eliminate the gaps between the bars and beams with felt, jute, stick or foam. Then a layer of vapor barrier is laid, and on top - a heater with an overlap in the same layer as on the ceiling of the house. The insulation is covered with expanded clay. Expanded clay must be leveled, compacted and covered with a screed.

If you want to make a utility room out of the attic, you can equip the floor with wooden planks or other finishing materials. If the attic is not going to be used as a living space, it is sufficient to insulate the ceiling of the house and the floor of the attic.

When laying hydro- and thermal insulation, avoid a large number of seams and joints, as they affect the outflow of heat and the inflow of cold. Be sure to leave gaps between the layers of the “pie”, especially for soft roof. Such gaps will provide the necessary ventilation and air circulation. You do not know what roof for a wooden house to choose? Read about the types and forms of roofing at the link http://marisrub.ru/uslugi/krovelnye-raboty/vybor-krovli-dlya-doma.

How to insulate a roof with a residential attic space

Warming also begins with waterproofing. Waterproofing materials are laid on the upper planes of the bars and rafter legs across the slope. The film is overlapped with a sag of up to 2 centimeters and fixed with staples or nails. It is important to leave sagging, otherwise it will crack in the cold. Then a crate of bars is installed, which finally fixes the waterproofing layer and forms ventilation gaps.

After that, heat-insulating materials are laid close to the rafters and bars. It is important not to break the thermal insulation layer! The thickness of the heat-insulating layer is determined depending on the climatic conditions. When laying the insulation, keep an eye on the size of the ventilation gaps! Today, wooden houses with an attic are gaining popularity. When insulating the attic, a vapor barrier is also laid on top of the insulation. The vapor barrier film is laid on the lower plane of the rafter legs and overlapping bars.

If you decide to insulate the roof with expanded clay, roofing material is used instead of a waterproofing film, since a standard film will not withstand the load. During installation, it is important to eliminate cracks and gaps so that the material does not spill out. Ruberoid sheets are overlapped on the walls. Then, expanded clay is carefully and gradually poured. Roofing material can also be placed on top.

Roof insulation is a time-consuming and responsible process, because it affects the service life and performance properties of the house. With the wrong technology and low-quality materials, the room will be cold and the roof will leak. To avoid such problems, entrust the work to professionals!

The masters of the MariSrub company will professionally perform installation, insulation and roofing. They will select suitable materials that will enhance the thermal insulation properties of the structure, provide reliable ventilation and waterproofing.

The construction of a wooden house is always associated with a large number of technological processes, the subtleties of the implementation of which are best provided during the preparation of the project. One of these processes is the laying of a heat-insulating layer. This article will discuss how to insulate the roof of a wooden house from the inside, if external thermal insulation of the slopes was not performed during construction.

The structure of the internal insulation

When it comes to warming the roof of a wooden house from the inside, they mean that all work will be carried out from the attic side. It uses materials from low level thermal conductivity. Of course, this approach is optimal only in cases where the roofing has already been laid and it is not possible to perform thermal insulation without dismantling the flooring.

There are several conditions for internal insulation:

1. To prevent heat loss through the pitched roof, the layer of thermal insulation material must be at least 15 cm. In this regard effective area the space under the roof is noticeably reduced, so this approach is not in great demand for arranging attic spaces.
2. Since the material for insulating the roof slopes from the inside is placed directly behind the layer of interior decoration, it is able to absorb much more moisture, even if a vapor barrier is installed. Consequently, soon the insulation gets wet, and then ceases to perform its functions and settles.
3. The cost of insulation work pitched roof from the inside is significantly higher than when performing external thermal insulation. The fact is, during the installation process, you need to hold the material above your head in order to fix it.
4. In order to protect the people living in the house, apply for internal thermal insulation premises can only be ecologically clean materials. Their cost is about 2 times more than that of materials for external insulation.

Before you insulate the roof of the house from the inside, you need to learn a few rules. It is important to remember that, provided that the gable roof is insulated from the inside, any insulation should be laid only in parallel with the installation of membranes or films for hydro and vapor barrier. Otherwise, the material will quickly absorb moisture, begin to wrinkle and deform, and cease to perform thermal insulation functions. Besides, in attic rooms, where much more moisture accumulates, it is recommended to equip forced system ventilation.

The better to insulate - what materials can be used for a wooden house

Let's figure out how to insulate the roof of a private house is best, in one case or another. For internal thermal insulation of the room, the most various materials, differing in quality, technical parameters and cost. As for wooden buildings, non-combustible, vapor-permeable and moisture-resistant materials that do not conduct heat well are considered optimal.

The most requested are:

• Mineral wool. It is made from fiberglass, gabbro-basalt or slag. The material is sold in the form of rolls, slabs or mats. Among the characteristics are high efficiency, incombustibility, low price and ease of installation. Of all the possible options, the better to insulate the roof of the house from the inside, this one can perhaps be considered optimal. In our country, roof insulation from the inside with mineral wool is the most popular option for thermal insulation. However, goggles, gloves, a respirator and overalls must be worn during work to protect you from small particles of material.
• Expanded polystyrene, or polystyrene. The main advantages of the material can be considered low thermal conductivity, low weight and good protection from humidity. It is very convenient to work with such material, because it is well cut, it is easy to fix it. However, expanded polystyrene does not have vapor permeability. In this regard, dampness accumulates in the room and mold forms. To avoid consequences, forced ventilation is usually equipped.
• polyurethane foam. You can buy such material already in the form of finished panels, or in a liquid state. Such a mixture is foamed using carbon dioxide before being applied to the inner surface of the slope. Although this type of insulation is quite popular among consumers, it is characterized by absolute vapor tightness. In this regard, it is strictly forbidden to apply such material to the inner surface of the roof of a wooden house. Moreover, independent installation of polyurethane foam is practically not performed - due to the complexity and high cost equipment is handled by experts.

Please note that the material for roof insulation, which is used from the inside, must be absolutely safe for the life and health of residents. Among the proven insulating materials can be called ecowool. It consists of flax or cellulose fibers impregnated with special antiseptic and flame retardant substances. In addition, in terms of sound absorption and thermal insulation, the material is similar to mineral wool.

Roof insulation methods from the inside

So that efforts and time are not wasted, you need to know how to properly insulate the roof of the house from the inside. Note that this process is somewhat more complicated than external insulation roofs. However, if there is still no other choice, it is necessary to purchase insulation material, a vapor barrier membrane, Consumables(self-tapping screws and wooden planks). You will also need to prepare a marker, a sharp knife, a stapler and a screwdriver.

Two methods are commonly used for internal roof insulation:

1. Laying in the gaps between the rafters. If the thickness of the insulation layer is less than the cross section of the rafters, the material is placed in the space between them. At first roll insulation cut into pieces that are 2-3 cm wider than the gap between the rafters. The material is placed in the formed niches. The disadvantage of this method is the possibility of cold penetration into the attic through small gaps in the frame.
2. Flooring over rafter legs. This method is used in cases where the section of the rafters is not enough for laying insulation. required thickness. In this case, 2 layers of insulation are installed. The first is mounted in niches between the rafters, and the second is laid on top roof frame. After that, a double layer of insulation is fixed by stuffing wooden slats perpendicular to the frame or metallic profile. In this case, the effectiveness of the thermal insulation of the roof is significantly increased.

Please note that in cases where the roof slope does not exceed 25º, the insulation laid between the rafter legs may fall out of the niche under the weight of its weight. In this case, it will need to be fixed with a profile or wooden slats, or pull several rows of fishing line perpendicular to the frame.

It is a mistake to believe that a wooden house will turn out to be warm by itself, so to speak, by definition. Like any other building, it is desirable to insulate it, especially the roof, through which warm air leaves the premises due to convection. It is the insulation of the roof of a wooden house that we will discuss in this article.

Which heater to choose

The main requirement is that the material should be as thermally conductive as possible. The ability of a heat insulator to retain heat is estimated by a physical quantity - the coefficient of thermal conductivity (CT), which has a unit of measurement W / m * 0 C.

A layer of 18 cm of mineral wool is comparable in thermal conductivity to brick wall 210 cm thick

The lower it is, the better. Today, the most effective are heat insulators, the CT of which is in the range of 0.034–0.042 W / m * 0 C. These include:

• mineral wool;
• foams;
• ecowool.

Quite important for a heater is such a characteristic as vapor permeability, the unit of which is mg / m * h * Pa. As the name implies, it reflects the ability of the material to pass water vapor, that is, in fact, we are talking about air permeability. Those materials that have high vapor permeability, popularly called "breathing". In general, "breathing" building envelopes, if they allow steam to pass in moderation, are good, because part of the warm and humid air in the room will be removed through them, and this will reduce the ventilation air exchange rate.

Accordingly, the heat loss will be lower. For example, in houses built according to Soviet standards - with vapor-permeable walls, with a single hourly air exchange, the share of heat loss due to ventilation is 40%. In Europe, where it is customary to sheathe the walls with a vapor barrier film, the required air exchange rate per hour is 2, and the proportion of heat loss through ventilation increases to 60%.

But in the case of the roof, the vapor permeability of the insulation does not play a special role, and they usually refrain from constructing a "breathing" roofing pie. After all, due to convection, steam enters here in the largest quantities and the likelihood that it will condense on outside insulation, or even inside it, is large enough. And condensate, that is, water, is a completely different story: there is rotting, and destruction of the material during freezing, and a significant increase in thermal conductivity.

With improper insulation, condensation forms on the roof, which quickly destroys truss system and roofing materials

Now it's worth taking a closer look at the heat insulators that provide the most effective protection.

Mineral wool strands are made from molten natural stone (basalt wool), glass or slag, so it:

The last point can be considered conditional. The fact is that mineral fibers are short and have to be glued together using compounds based on phenol-formaldehyde resin. It is believed that, subject to the production technology, the emission (emission) of toxic substances from mineral wool is negligible, but today cheap varieties are often found on sale, most often made in China, which may well turn out to be unsafe.

In order not to worry about this, you can purchase mineral wool with an acrylic binder - it is considered absolutely safe.

Mineral wool has features that it is useful for a potential buyer to know in advance:

• material is relatively expensive;
• it absorbs water well (hygroscopicity), while completely losing the ability to retain heat;
• during installation, it emits dangerous pungent dust, from which you have to protect yourself with a respirator, goggles and gloves (clothes are thrown away after installation).

Today, thanks to the thoughtful and well-funded "promotion" of basalt wool, there is an opinion in society that it is the most advanced and modern variety mineral wool. Glass wool is presented as an outdated material, moreover, terribly prickly and uncomfortable. Such PR allows you to sell basalt wool exorbitantly, but you should not believe him.

Isover is made from glass fibers. highest quality and practically does not emit any harmful components during installation

Modern glass fibers are made very thin, so that they no longer prick their hands, so glass wool is in no way inferior to basalt wool. Many well-known manufacturers, such as Isover, make their products from it, just because of the powerful anti-advertising, this is not advertised.

Mineral wool is produced in the form of not only soft mats, but also rigid slabs capable of carrying a rather high load with minimal deformation. This allows them to be used for external insulation of exploited roofs. Slabs are produced with an elastic edge, thanks to which they can be held due to the expansion force between the frame rails or rafters. The plates can be impregnated with oils, which provides some water-repellent effect. Also today they learned how to make varieties of mineral wool, which does not produce dust.

It should be noted that the density of mineral wool varies over a very wide range - from 35 to 450 kg / m 3. Accordingly, the load on the roof when insulated with mineral wool of different types can vary greatly.

This term refers to all materials obtained by foaming polymers. For example, what we used to call polystyrene in everyday life is granulated polystyrene foam(PPS).

Styrofoam is produced by foaming polymer materials, so it contains a lot of air and weighs very little

There are also polyurethane foam (PPU), polyvinyl chloride foam (PVC), polyethylene foam (PPE) and much more difficult to pronounce materials, such as polyisocyanurate (used in sandwich panels). The structure of foam plastics is not fibrous, like mineral wool, but porous. Therefore they:

• moisture resistant;
• have low vapor permeability.

All this applies to most foams, but there are exceptions. The most famous is foam rubber, which is a type of polyurethane foam: as you know, it absorbs moisture and passes air with steam very well.

The widespread use of foam plastics is due to two important advantages:

• low cost;
• lack of pronounced harmful effects(mineral wool, we recall, is very dusty).

In everyday life, the following types are usually used:

1. For warming flat surfaces- expanded polystyrene. Along with granulated PPS, in which, for example, household appliances are packed, extruded is produced. Its structure is not divided into granules, but is a single porous polymer. Extruded PPS is much more expensive than granulated one, but it is able to withstand significant loads - up to 50 t / m 2, which allows it to be used for thermal insulation of roofs and floors in operation.
2. Curvilinear surfaces - foam polyethylene. May be produced under various trademarks, for example, "Penoplex". PES, unlike PPS, is soft, flexible material and comes in rolls. Having such a structure, it also absorbs sounds very well, while PPS and other rigid foam polymers do not have such an ability.

   It is convenient to insulate curved sections of the roof with polyethylene foam

3. Hard-to-reach places (crevices, seams, cracks, cavities) - with polyurethane foam. This material exists in the form of not only foam rubber, but also the well-known polyurethane foam - it is it that is used to fill all of the above. It would be possible to use polyurethane foam for insulation of flat surfaces, as it forms a seamless coating, but it is expensive.

   Polyurethane foam is nothing more than the well-known polyurethane foam

Polymer heaters also have disadvantages, and quite serious ones:

1. Even at relatively low temperatures (for PPS - starting from +80 o C), thermal decomposition processes begin in the materials, leading to the release of gases harmful to health. This should be taken into account by the owners of houses with roofs made of corrugated board or metal tiles - in summer such roofs heat up quite strongly.
2. All polymers are combustible, and during combustion they emit extremely toxic smoke in large quantities. By introducing flame retardants into the composition, it is possible to reduce the flammability group to G1, but under conditions characteristic of a fire high temperature such materials still smoke heavily. True, smoke is not so dangerous on the roof of a private house, this problem is relevant for high-rise buildings that cannot be insulated with foam in any case (smoke can poison the residents of the upper floors).

Styrofoam attracts rodents, who enjoy eating them. This problem is relevant just for residents of private houses.

Ecowool

Ecowool is one of the most effective heaters, but at the same time it is extremely cheap. In essence, it is shredded paper impregnated with antiseptic and flame retardant.

There are two ways to use this material:

1. Dry. It is blown out with a special installation or filled manually into a closed cavity, for example, behind a wall sheathing.

   Dry ecowool is blown behind the pre-mounted sheathing

2. With hydration. Feeding with humidification can only be carried out with the help of special equipment. When wet, the lignin that is part of the paper exhibits adhesive properties (papier-mâché effect), as a result of which ecowool sticks to the surface (even to the ceiling) and forms a rigid seamless coating.

Ecowool has not been widely used in everyday life, because:

• flame retardants and antiseptics used for its impregnation are moderately toxic;
• the material is combustible: combustibility group G2 (moderately combustible materials), according to flammability characteristics - B1 (hardly flammable).

In addition to those indicated, when insulating the roof, bulk insulation can be used - expanded clay, sawdust, slag. They are less effective, for example, for expanded clay, depending on the density, CT is from 0.1 to 0.18 W / m * 0 C, but they are very cheap.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the roof of a wooden house

The technique for performing work depends on the type of roof.

Flat roof insulation options

Flat roofs are built on small buildings V southern regions where precipitation is at a minimum. There are two types of insulation:

• external;
• internal.

It is imperative to start from the outside, and only if it turns out to be insufficiently effective, internal insulation is also performed.

External insulation of a flat roof

You need to act in the following sequence:

1. The roof is covered with a vapor barrier film, which can be fixed with glue.
2. Next, a heater is laid out on the roof - mineral wool boards, expanded polystyrene or expanded clay. Mineral wool slabs should be chosen rigid enough so that they can bear the load. For the same reason, only extruded polystyrene should be used. These materials can be glued with special mastic, or they can be screwed to the ceiling with dowels. The first option is preferable, because the dowels act as a cold bridge.

   Thermal insulation boards are laid on the waterproofing layer and fastened to the mastic or dowels

3. On the upper face of the insulation, a slope of 7 degrees is formed, which is necessary for water to drain. If expanded clay is used, it must be leveled accordingly. In the case of PPS or mineral wool, special plates made of these materials are used, one side of which has a corresponding slope. These plates must be laid so that they overlap the seams in the main layer of insulation.

   To form a slope along which water will flow, special insulation boards with a beveled surface are used.

4. When laying the second layer, it is highly likely that the first one can be damaged, therefore, in order to distribute the weight of the installer, it is highly desirable to lay boards on the insulation (you should only walk on them).
5. At the next step, the foam or mineral wool boards are screwed with dowels or self-tapping screws to the ceiling, if they were not glued with mastic. Fasteners should be used special - the so-called dish-shaped, characterized by large caps (so as not to push through the insulation).

Metal fasteners contribute to heat loss, and to a very large extent: it is estimated that a metal cold bridge with an area of ​​​​only 10% of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe insulated area reduces the efficiency of a heat insulator by 90%, that is, it works by only one tenth.

Next, a waterproof coating is laid. Previously, roofing material was used in this capacity, but today it is considered obsolete: this material has too low frost resistance, it also does not tolerate exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation and temperature changes. UV rays deprive plasticity and mastic, which are used for gluing roofing material, so that as a result, the life of the roof is reduced to only 5–7 years.

Roll materials of modern type serve 15–20 years

More durable (serve 15–20 years) are modern materials:

• bituminous - folgoizol and metalloizol (foil is used instead of cardboard);
• bitumen-polymer - hydrostekloizol, rubemast, steklomast, bikrost, etc. (due to polymer additives they are more plastic).

There are also such rolled roofing materials that fit in just 1 layer:

• "Cromel";
• "Rukril";
• firestone.

Instead of bitumen, rubber is used in them, the service life is 25 years. Finally, you can make seamless bulk coating from polymer or bitumen-polymer mastic:

• "Polikrov M-120";
• "Polikrov M-140";
• "Polikrov-L" (serve up to 25 years);
• "Blam-20" (20 years).

Mastics are characterized by high elasticity, due to which the coating remains waterproof even when the roof is deformed. For wooden houses, which can shrink over time, this is especially true.

It should be borne in mind that with a small thickness of the insulation in winter, moisture coming from the room through the ceiling can condense under the vapor barrier film. Before insulating the roof, you need to perform a calculation using one of thermotechnical calculators posted on many sites. If the calculation shows that during the cold period the temperature under the insulation is below the dew point, the vapor barrier film will need to be laid on the ceiling inside the room.

Video: thermal insulation and flat roof slope

Internal insulation

If it was not possible to achieve the desired effect by external insulation, the heat insulator is also placed on inside ceiling. This is done in the following order:

Video: ceiling insulation with mineral wool

Pitched roof insulation on wooden rafters

The vast majority of private houses, including wooden ones, are equipped with pitched roofs. The latter can be divided into two types:

1. Built from glued beams. The boards from which such a beam is made are pre-dried, so such houses do not shrink. Thus, insulation work can be carried out at the construction stage.
2. Built from logs or timber natural humidity. Such structures for some time change their geometry somewhat due to shrinkage. For this reason, even the rafters are installed on them according to a special scheme - on sliding supports. It is advisable to take on the insulation of slopes after shrinkage (usually 0.5–1 year is required), and until this time it is possible to temporarily insulate attic floor by laying the insulation directly on it.

At the moment, the following version of the insulated pitched roof device is being practiced:

1. Laid over the rafters waterproofing film. It is distinguished by increased strength, it is impossible to use a vapor barrier film in this capacity. Waterproofing, regardless of its type, is laid with a sag of 2–4 cm. If it is collected from individual strips, they must be laid with an overlap of 10–15 cm, carefully gluing.

   The waterproofing film is laid with a slight sag and fixed with bars of the counter-lattice

2. The film is fixed with a counter-lattice - boards 3–5 cm thick, which are stuffed over the rafters along them. Boards should be the same width as the rafters.
3. A crate is stuffed onto the counter-lattice (across the rafters), and a roof covering is placed on it. Thus, a so-called ventilation gap is formed between the waterproofing film and the roofing, which, due to the presence of holes in the eaves and ridge, will be ventilated. The movement of air will carry out the steam that penetrates here from the living space, preventing it from condensing on the roofing.

   The main crate, on which the finish coating will be laid, is separated from waterproofing coating to the thickness of the bar of the counter-lattice, which is quite enough for ventilation of the under-roof space

4. Next, a heater is mounted - foam boards or mineral wool. Ideally, the width of the slabs should be equal to the gap between the rafters. Recall that for such purposes, mineral wool boards are produced with an elastic edge, which can be held between rafters or any other surfaces due to the expansion force.
5. If the insulation is completed at this stage, the rafters will act as a cold bridge. Of course, the thermal conductivity of wood is less than that of metals, but in comparison with the thermal conductivity of a heater, it is quite high - 0.15 versus 0.004 W / m * C. Therefore, it is highly desirable to lay another heat-insulating layer from below. Better to use soft material: if mineral wool slabs are laid between the rafters, then we use mats from the same material; when using PPS - foamed polyethylene coated with foil (it should face the room). If the rafters are completely hidden, their position must be somehow marked, for example, with a stretched nylon thread. In the future, they will be needed to fasten the crate.

   Air circulation in the under-roof space is carried out due to the inflow of air into the ventilation gap under the crate and its output through the cold triangle of the ventilated ridge

The second layer of insulation can be stapled to the rafters, or temporary fastening in the form of a stretched cord can be used. In the future, it will be fixed with a crate.

1. A vapor barrier film is laid on top of the insulation, which can immediately be pressed with batten bars (located perpendicular to the rafters). The bars are screwed with screws to the rafters. In the attachment zone, the second layer of insulation will compress, allowing you to screw the crate tightly enough. The bars must be used at such a height that a small gap remains between the casing and the vapor barrier film (in case of condensation on the film).
2. At the end, the sheathing material is screwed to the crate - drywall, lining, etc.

Video: pitched roof insulation

Features of the use of hydro and vapor barrier films

When insulating a roof, the result is greatly influenced by the correct selection of materials used to protect the insulation from moisture and vapors.

Vapor barrier film

Instead of polyethylene, you can use polypropylene film. It is distinguished by the presence of an absorbent layer that will absorb moisture during condensation of steam, and then, when the humidity in the room returns to normal, it will evaporate.

If the insulation was made using mineral wool, which has a high vapor permeability, you can try to use it instead vapor barrier film membrane.

The vapor barrier layer must prevent steam condensation on the insulation

The vapor permeability of the latter should be such that the vapor penetrating into the mineral wool does not condense in its outer layers and has time to erode.

To clearly determine this value, you need to order a calculation to a civil engineer or heating engineer.

You can also use one of the above heat engineering calculators. As you can see, using a membrane instead of a deaf vapor barrier, you have to take a more difficult path, but the roofing cake turns out to be “breathable”, which means that heat loss for ventilation will be lower.

Waterproofing film

There are two types of waterproofing film:

1. Vapor proof. The simplest and inexpensive option, made of polyethylene or polypropylene.
2. Vapor permeable. Such films are called membranes. The material is impervious to water, but it has microscopic perforations through which steam can penetrate. Membranes are produced under various trademarks, for example, Yutavek and Yutafol films are quite well-known. Such a material costs a little more than a conventional vapor-tight material, but, as will be shown later, it is more practical.

Due to the conical shape of the micro-holes, the membrane allows steam to flow in only one direction, so it is important to lay it right side- so that the steam moves from the attic towards the roofing. The "input" side is easy to recognize by the marks.

The way the insulation is placed depends on what was laid as waterproofing.

Plain film

In this case, the insulation must be positioned so that it is at some distance from the film. Thus, a second ventilated gap is formed, due to which the steam seeping through the insulation will be removed. If you place the heat insulator close to the film, then the steam will condense on it, causing both the insulation (the mineral wool loses its thermal insulation qualities) and the rafters (leads to decay) to get wet.

The distance in question should be at least 2 cm. That is, when the waterproofing film sags by 3 cm, the insulation does not need to be brought to the upper edge of the rafters by 5 cm. Carnations can be hammered as limiters. The inner edge of the insulation plate should not protrude beyond the bottom edge of the rafters. If the height of the section of the rafters is not enough to accommodate the insulation of the required thickness, bars or boards must be nailed to them along the bottom.

The first ventilation gap is formed between the waterproofing and the finish coating, the second - between the insulation and vapor barrier

If mineral wool is used as a heater of especially low density (which is well blown), it makes sense to wrap it on top with a vapor-permeable windproof film.

Vapor permeable membrane

In the case of a vapor-tight membrane, the insulation must be laid close to it.

For mineral wool, this option is more preferable, since the film will simultaneously play the role of wind protection.

It is important that the insulation fits snugly enough to the rafters. If the width of the slabs is not enough for this, the gaps between them and the rafters must be filled with scraps of mineral wool mats (when using mineral wool slabs) or mounting foam(when using PPS boards).

To prevent the insulation from falling out, it can be temporarily fixed with a stretched nylon cord.

Video: superdiffusion membrane or waterproofing film

The air heated in the living room, according to the laws of physics, rises, so the issue of roof insulation should be given Special attention. It must be taken into account that warm air carries with it a large number of water vapour, and roofing is, by definition, vapor-tight. Therefore, such structural elements as a ventilation gap, a membrane and / or a vapor barrier must be present in the roofing pie.

The traditions of wooden buildings, special designs of stoves contributed to the creation of an acceptable microclimate for life, but without roof insulation, it is impossible to keep the heat in the house in a harsh winter.

According to the law of conversion warm air with unprotected overlap, it takes away up to 35% of heat. The ceiling, attic and roof are the main places of heat loss. Each of these can be insulated. structural elements at home or in a complex - all at once.

Warming- a process that does not tolerate economy, not only the heat in the house depends on its quality, but also the safety of the building itself, the efficiency of using its volumes, and the creation of a healthy microclimate for life.

Types of roofs, insulation with roofing

Roofs are distinguished by shape and slope:

• flat;
• lean-to;
• gable (in the form of a triangle);
• four-slope (hip);
• half hip.

cover them depending on the traditions, economic possibilities and aesthetic preferences: tiles, aluminum or copper profiled sheets, euroslate, corrugated board, seam coating, roll materials.

Each type of coating has different indicators of heat saving, laying technology. Their choice must answer following calculations roof strength:

• probable seasonal fluctuations in external temperature;
• impact air masses, which determine the strength of the wind;
• the effects of precipitation, including the thickness of the snow layer and the impact force of hail;
• total weight of the coating;
• roof insulation weight.

Preparation of the work front

For roof insulation in a new wooden house, you have to wait for it to completely dry out., postponing at least six months. In this case, insulation can be carried out along with the process of building a roof, using the crate for both covering and insulation.

The house, which was in operation, is insulated from the inside, from the attic. The presence of an attic or a residential attic requires comprehensive insulation in a wooden house of all "cold bridges": floors, attics and roofs.

The preparation of the front of work involves processing of all wooden elements antiseptic, checking and, if necessary, repairing electrical wiring, water heating pipes. The cracks and distortions that have arisen are sealed with tow.

Necessary materials

The shelf life of the insulation should be correlated with the service life roofing material to avoid premature opening of the layer to replace the roof. The main requirements for the materials used:

• reliable thermal insulation qualities;
• versatility of use for different kind roofs;
• ease of installation;
• durability;
• resistance to open fire;
• economy.

In the creation of an insulating layer, they are used as waterproofing: diffuse membranes or anti-condensation films. By the way: superdiffusion membranes are able to withstand a meter layer of water from the outside.

As universal insulation use rolls or mats of glass or ecowool (the length of the fibers that make up the material improves qualities such as heat and sound insulation). For wooden houses the best option- basalt wool.

For non-residential premises as a heat insulator, you can use Penoizol or Teploizol foam, however, you can’t walk on it later - the layer surface is destroyed.

In some cases, insulation can be carried out using granular foam (if we are talking about filling cracks and depressions) and even expanded clay.

Suitable for fire-resistant foam boards.

flat roof insulation

Insulation of this type of roof is carried out both from the inside and outside. But outdoor work is easier and, sometimes, they are quite enough to get the desired effect.

Basalt wool, as a durable and fireproof material, has good thermal insulation qualities, and when placed on a vapor-proof film, it enhances them. Close the insulation on top roll material glued with mastic for waterproofing.

Coating strength can be enhanced with built-up waterproofing:

• a cement-sand screed is laid on the insulation layer;
• in flames gas burner the waterproofing layer is melted.

Pitched roof insulation

Like any type of insulation, the insulation of a pitched roof begins with the laying of a waterproofing layer, which is fastened with a stapler to the beams and rafters. While retaining water, this film must be able to pass steam. At the same time, a ventilation gap of 4 cm is required between the roof and the film with special ventilation outlets in the region of the roof ridge (the use of a corrugated profile for the roof forms this ventilation space automatically).

Insulation mats 10 cm thick are laid at a distance between the crate, without gaps(you can also lay a second layer to cover the joints of the first), and fasten with a nylon cord or slats. All "cold bridges" along the rafters and beams are carefully insulated. Another layer of film is stretched on top. Thus, a three-layer "pie" is created that can prevent heat leakage in winter and protect attic space from overheating in summer.

If the attic is not planned to be used for housing, it is more economical to massively insulate the floors, and not the roof.

To your attention, a video about the thermal physics of a pitched roof.

And here you will learn how to insulate the roof with Isover material.

Insulation of the attic floor of a wooden house

Attic- this is a dwelling under the roof, the ceiling height of which should not be lower than 2.2 m - such a practical use of the attic. For a comfortable attic microclimate, it is necessary to insulate both the floor and the walls between the wings of the roof, and the attic ceiling, which may not coincide with the inner surface of the roof.

1. Attic floor insulation.

All cracks are sealed, and a vapor barrier is laid. It is insulated with mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam (layer up to 20 cm). Fall asleep with expanded clay followed by a screed. Finishing layer- any kind of flooring.

2. Insulation of the ceiling and walls.

The ceiling is insulated even with an insulated roof. Mandatory compliance air cushion to prevent condensation. A diffuse film is laid on top of the insulation layer as a waterproofing agent. Interior decoration is selected on the basis of cladding panels.

3. With the help of counter-lattices, “cold bridges” are additionally insulated, which arise at the junction different materials: roofs and walls, beams and ceilings.

Some nuances in the work on the insulation of a wooden house

1. To prevent gaps and cracks, you can lay insulation second layer, overlapping the joints of the first.
2. To be able to walk around the attic after doing insulation works it is necessary to arrange plank construction in the form of bridges.
3. The quality of roof insulation can be checked in winter by the melting of the snow layer; if the winter fell without snow, ice cream placed on the roof as an indicator will help out.

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