We insulate a wooden ceiling yourself: options and methods. We insulate the ceiling in a wooden house with our own hands Insulating the ceiling in a village house

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Ceiling insulation in wooden house It is better to perform it during the design and construction stage of a house. Modern wooden houses are built from timber, logs, and carriages using traditional technologies.

IN frame construction prevail woodworking materials: chipboards, OSB, plywood, other materials. For insulation log walls were used natural insulation materials: moss, tow of flax or hemp. The ceiling was insulated with a layer of sawdust mixed with clay or cement mortar, expanded clay, and other bulk materials.

Today they are more often used synthetic materials : mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam. Perfect option insulating the ceiling in a wooden house is moisture resistant thermo insulating materials . But, if the ceiling is located in a dry room, then the best insulation ceiling wooden house is mineral wool .

Mineral wool is divided into three types: glass wool, slag, basalt or stone wool– all of them have found application in construction wooden houses. Glass wool is used for cold attic floors, stone wool ceilings are thermally insulated both from the inside and outside, and slag wool is used to insulate pipelines, septic tanks, and outbuildings.

Before you insulate wooden ceiling in a private house, they do calculations of insulation thickness, filling areas. Each roll or package of insulating boards has an indicator of the geometric dimensions of the insulation, R-value or thermal conductivity coefficient. Define required amount material, then purchase hydro- and vapor barrier materials, insulation, fasteners, which are usually included in the insulation kit, purchase tools and protective equipment.

If unheated attic, then a roll of moisture-resistant glass wool will do; it is laid on the attic floor between the floor beams, the distance between the beams is 58 cm, the height of the beam is 100-150 mm. For middle zone In Russia, 150 mm of ROCKWOOL Thermal insulation thickness is sufficient.

Moisture-resistant insulation it is laid on the ceiling floor without vapor barrier, provided that the room underneath is dry.

Then, if they plan to use the attic for storing things, they lay vapor barrier film, nail a 20 x 45 mm rail along the joists for a ventilation gap and lay the floor. Sometimes the question arises: what is the best way to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house if it is an attic? The best decisionnatural materials: cellulose, sawdust, expanded clay.

Here classic scheme insulating the ceiling in a wooden house with your own hands from the attic side.

Here, insulation work begins with the installation of a waterproofing film (2); you can also use a vapor barrier “Izospan” or a simple plastic film.

When planning an attic or additional living space, it is better to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house basalt, and hydro- and vapor barrier is needed if there is a kitchen or bathroom underneath. Insulation (3) is placed between the floor joists, covered with a vapor barrier film “Izospan” (4), and then a counter batten (5) is nailed to the joists to create a ventilation gap.

Instead of a batten, you can nail a felt sound-absorbing damper strip and place it on it. floorboard. The diagram suggests using a rough plank floor (6), then an underlay for the laminate (7) and then a finished floor.

Insulation of the ceiling between floors in a wooden house

Insulating the ceiling of the first floor in a wooden house is thermal insulation interfloor covering . Here, the requirements for the thickness of the insulation are not significant, because even if some of the heat penetrates into the rooms on the second floor, it will be useful for heating.

Here the choice of insulation is based on two-component qualities: heat and sound insulation. High-density insulating materials have these qualities. The technology for insulating the ceiling in a wooden house with high-density slabs is somewhat different from the traditional one: laying insulation in the space between the floor joists.

Note. A damper pad (2) is placed under the suspension (3), which dampens impact sounds. "Penoplex"– dense foam plastic, fastened liquid nails to the wooden ceiling of the ceiling, all cracks and gaps are filled with foam sealant (4), which is also a damper between the wall and the ceiling. Add here also suspended ceiling from gypsum plasterboard - you get excellent thermal and sound insulation protection. By the way, instead of a gypsum board ceiling, they use stretch ceiling, which greatly simplifies installation.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling of a wooden house is possible both during construction and in operation. If you find that the ceiling is not insulated enough due to voids formed due to shrinkage of the insulation, then you can always fill the voids bulk materialcellulose, which is light weight and absolutely harmless to health.

Cellulose insulation resistant to mold, fungal diseases, moisture resistant and durable. For insulation interfloor ceilings, perfectly fills voids, especially in hard to reach places, does not cake, has high coefficient thermal resistance . Cover with a layer of 150-200 mm.

How to insulate the ceiling of a wooden house with a basement

Many wooden houses are built on concrete, brick, aerated concrete, expanded clay concrete plinths, covered with lightweight concrete slabs, which are the ceilings of garages and utility rooms basement premises. A simple way to insulate such rooms is covering ceilings with foamed polyurethane using foaming components and special tool for applying heat-insulating coating.

This coating can also be done using wooden floor. The method is advantageous in that it does not require expensive preparatory work. Foamed polyurethane fills all voids and cracks. Perhaps the disadvantages of this method are:

  • Lack of this technology in remote areas;
  • Intolerance to UV rays;
  • Expensive compared to other methods.

Although, in monetary terms, this method is not much more expensive than erecting additional logs and laying roll insulation or installing tile insulation. It's up to you, but this method is becoming increasingly popular:

  • No costs for preparatory work;
  • High speed of work;
  • Excellent heat and sound insulation properties.

Useful video

Let's watch a useful video about insulating the ceiling in a house without installation work:

Having become familiar with the materials and methods of insulating the ceilings of wooden houses, we can state that to insulate dry rooms, you can do without additional sealing films.

For wooden houses, including country houses, the best insulation is moisture-resistant, which does not require additional protection from moisture. Basement premises better warmth insulate with polyurethane foam. To supplement the thickness of the insulation, it is better to use backfill, because they better fill voids in particularly difficult places.

The law of physics, according to which heated air rises, no one can challenge. This law applies equally to any building: brick, wood, concrete. Therefore, insulating the ceiling in a wooden house for its residents means saving considerable money on its heating - after all, it has long been known that a properly built log house retains heat inside the house much more effectively than brick or concrete walls.

Choice of insulation

It is impossible to do this without first understanding how best to insulate the ceiling of a wooden house. Insulation, in addition to reliable thermal insulation, must mandatory have the following qualities:

  • strength;
  • durability;
  • soundproofing properties;
  • environmental cleanliness;
  • fire resistance.

The modern building materials market offers big choice both old, time-tested insulation materials, and modern means thermal insulation that meets these requirements:

  • sawdust;
  • hay, straw;
  • clay;
  • Styrofoam;
  • penoplex;
  • mineral wool:
  • glass wool;
  • polyurethane foam;
  • foam glass;
  • ecowool.

For greater convenience, all thermal insulation materials can be divided into bulk, block (hard) and rolled (soft). Insulation of the ceiling in a wooden house with materials of the same type is carried out according to a similar scheme; differences can only be caused by technical and physical properties insulation materials.


When starting work, you need to clearly understand how to properly insulate the ceiling in a wooden house. Regardless of the chosen insulation general scheme The attic insulation layer looks the same. The first thing to install on the side of the living room is a vapor barrier, the task of which is to prevent water vapor coming from the living room from entering the insulating layer.

The vapor barrier membrane must be continuous and completely cover the entire ceiling. The selected insulation is laid directly on the layer. And above it, on the side of the roof, a waterproofing layer is installed, the task of which is to prevent cold air and droplets of moisture from penetrating from outside to the thermal insulation layer.

Insulation of the ceiling of a wooden house is often performed from above, from the roof side. Previously it was the only thing possible way, but with the appearance of soft roll insulation It became possible to insulate the ceiling and below. But when choosing this method, you must take into account that its implementation inevitably leads to a decrease in the height of the room.

Insulation with sawdust


This is one of the oldest, most effective and cheapest ways to arrange a wooden house warm ceiling. Therefore, before spending money on other insulation materials, you need to find out how to insulate a wooden ceiling with sawdust. All you need for such insulation:

  • several bags of cement;
  • middle fraction sawdust;
  • Steam and waterproofing films;
  • water;
  • a few hours of free time.

The most difficult thing in this method is to stock up on enough quality ones. You will need dry sawdust, which has lain for at least a year, in which there are not only no visible traces of mold, but there is not even its smell. Optimal for insulating sawdust of the middle fraction. You can take small ones, but they will require more cement, which will affect the thermal insulation characteristics of the poured layer.

First, mix sawdust and dry cement in a ratio of 10:1 into a homogeneous mass. Then we clean the attic of dust, debris and foreign objects and cover it with a vapor barrier film made of glassine or polyethylene, always with an overlap of sheets of 7-10 cm.

Immediately before backfilling, mix the sawdust-cement mixture again, moistening it with water at the rate of: 3 buckets of water per 20 buckets of dry mixture, and insulate the ceiling with the resulting mixture, spreading it in a layer of 25-27 cm, and then slightly compacting the poured sawdust with your feet.

Sawdust is good because it costs pennies, and if done correctly, it retains heat just as well modern insulation materials. But such thermal insulation must be installed in the middle of summer, so that the sawdust has time to dry by autumn, and in the fall, the already dry mixture must be covered with a waterproofing film, otherwise the sawdust will get wet and begin to rot.

A similar scheme is used to insulate the ceiling with clay mixed with sawdust, only in this case the base of the thermal insulation layer will be clay, not sawdust. When insulating the ceiling with expanded clay, its granules are poured into a box prepared in advance along the perimeter of the attic and leveled with a rake.

Most modern insulation materials are produced both in the form of soft rolls and in the form of more rigid slabs. These are all types of mineral wool (primarily basalt wool) and ecowool. Polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam are also produced in the form of slabs. More often than others, slabs are used to insulate the ceiling. basalt wool.


Basalt wool - insulation with basalt, more precisely, with hard basalt fibers inside, it has excellent thermal insulation properties and high ductility. To insulate the attic, it is better to use basalt wool in the form of slabs from above, and in the form of rolls from below.

The technology for insulating an attic with basalt wool slabs is simple and does not require much time or much physical effort. First you need to completely clean the surface of the attic, freeing it from dust, dirt and foreign objects. If wooden structures attics are open, it is better to treat them with antiseptics to protect them from fungi and mold.

Then it is laid out in the attic vapor barrier film, with the obligatory observance of an overlap of 7-10 cm between the laid strips and gluing all joints with tape. Basalt wool slabs are laid between the ceiling beams. If the ceiling design does not allow laying basalt wool slabs between the beams, then before laying it is necessary to fill the attic with mounting slats, observing a step of 0.5-0.7 cm less than the width of the insulation slabs.

The insulation boards are covered with a waterproofing film on top, on top of which, to ensure the ability to move freely along the ceiling, a subfloor made from old boards is installed.

Using a similar scheme, the ceiling is insulated with any tile or block heat insulators, incl. and homemade, made from a mixture of hay or straw and cement.

Rolled materials for insulating wooden ceilings include mineral wool, glass wool and ecowool. Soft roll insulation is good because it can be laid both above and below the ceiling. Also, insulation of the ceiling from below can be done with sheet foam or polystyrene foam.


The technique of insulating the ceiling with roll insulation from above is similar to the technique of insulating with solid block insulation described above. The only difference: roll insulation has a smaller thickness compared to block insulation, so they need to be laid in two layers, and the top one must cover the joints of the bottom layer.

Insulation ceiling from below is carried out using a different technology. First, a waterproofing layer is attached to the entire ceiling area. For better attachment to the ceiling, the waterproofing film is coated with glue. Then mounting strips are attached to the ceiling from below through the waterproofing layer. The distance between the slats should be 0.5-0.7 cm less than the width of the insulation.

To avoid damage waterproofing film, better than slats fasten to the ceiling with self-tapping screws: first drill holes in them for the self-tapping screws, and then carefully pull the slats to the ceiling. A layer of insulation is placed between the slats with slight pressure.

A vapor barrier film is attached to the bottom of the slats, the attachment points are covered with tape, after which the thermal insulation layer is masked with a decorative ceiling. Materials for arrangement can be plasterboard, lining or wood.

Knowing how to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house and which insulation materials are best to use for this, you can make your home much warmer and your stay in it much more comfortable.

IN Lately Many city residents leave their apartments and move to country houses. Wooden houses are especially popular because they are reliable, practical and environmentally friendly. In addition, a wooden house itself is always warm, because wood is living and warm construction material. Due to what it provides natural circulation air, in summer time a wooden house will give its owners a slight coolness, and in winter they will warm you with warmth.

But, nevertheless, in the house even from the most the best wood it is necessary to insulate the ceiling, otherwise the wind will pass through the room, and severe frost won't even help plastic windows and high-quality insulated walls. Most often, heat leaves the house through an improperly finished ceiling. For this reason, without it good insulation V wooden room no way. If you neglect the insulation of this part of the house, you should not expect the desired comfort and warmth.

There are many ways to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house from the inside and outside. They are so simple and affordable that you can do it yourself.

All methods of insulation can be divided into two groups: external and internal insulation. In the first case, as a rule, the attic floor is insulated. Then it needs to be covered with flooring. In the second case, it is important to take into account that the height of the room may change slightly.

When choosing a material for ceiling insulation, it is important to remember that it has high thermal insulation qualities and good sound insulation, is strong and durable, and is also safe for health. An equally important indicator is the resistance of the selected material to fire. Thus, the most common insulation materials are mineral or glass wool, sawdust, polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, clay and expanded clay.


Sawdust is cheap and therefore easily accessible, external insulation. By its quality and others important indicators This material is no worse than other expensive products. The process of insulation with sawdust is very simple and takes very little time. You can do it yourself, without turning to experts for help. First you need to purchase everything you need. Firstly, you will need sawdust itself in large quantities. It is important to remember that not all sawdust is suitable for insulation. They must satisfy certain requirements: be at least one year old, dry, without mold or odor. You should also choose medium-sized sawdust, because small ones provide much worse thermal insulation.

Secondly, insulation material is needed, the volume of which is calculated in advance based on the area to be insulated. Thirdly, cement will be needed. Made from sawdust and cement special mixture. Cement is diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10. The amount of sawdust is calculated as follows: 10 buckets are required for 1.5 buckets of water. All these ingredients will create a moist, bright gray mixture.

The prepared mixture is evenly distributed over the surface of the ceiling.

There is a certain procedure for how to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house with your own hands using sawdust. First, you need to clean the area from dirt and dust, and also treat it with a solution that protects the ceiling from the development of mold and pests. Then it is taken waterproofing material and spreads throughout the available space. The prepared mixture is distributed over the entire area. That's all, the insulation is done. For better adhesion, you can trample the heat-insulating layer a little so that it becomes compacted and allows less heat to pass through.

Thus, this method is very simple and inexpensive. But it is used only if the house has access to the attic. If this is not available, only internal insulation is possible, and for this it is necessary to choose a different method.


Roll insulation materials such as mineral wool, glass wool and others are excellent protectors of the room from frost and wind. But working with them is not easy and dangerous. Their microparticles can fall off and get into the respiratory tract, mouth, and eyes. Therefore, when using them, it is necessary to prepare protective measures in advance and, in order to avoid injury, wear clothing and glasses that cover all parts of the body.

Insulation roll materials is carried out according to a certain scheme, the stages of which are as follows:

  • First you need to drive nails into the rough ceiling. This is done in a special way: they are not clogged completely and stick out a little. The thread is pulled on them in a zigzag manner.
  • Next you need to start laying the insulation itself. It is more convenient to do this together, so that one person lays the rolls and the other pulls the thread. Thus, it would be better to lay, for example, glass wool.
  • After this, a special film is attached to prevent condensation from forming.
  • Now the nails are nailed tighter to press the insulation layer more tightly.
  • The work is completed by attaching sheets of plasterboard or other material as a false ceiling.

When using roll insulation, it is important to carefully monitor whether there are any gaps left. Otherwise, some of the heat will escape through them, and condensation may form in them.


Clay is popular for its ability to effectively retain heat. But it can only be used as insulation for the ceiling in combination with other materials. For example, glassine and sawdust are combined with clay.

The sequence of work when insulating with clay is as follows. First lay glassine or something like it. Then apply a 15-centimeter layer of a mixture of clay and sawdust on it, which must be prepared in advance in the form of a solution. The insulation layer must be dried well, and then the existing cracks must be rubbed with clay.


Expanded clay is also publicly available and inexpensive material. It is very simple to carry out insulation with it, as with sawdust. In addition, compared to them, expanded clay is not flammable. Since it is very resistant to temperature fluctuations, fungi and mold do not live on it. Other advantages of expanded clay are complete environmental harmlessness and unattractiveness to rodents and insects.

The insulation of the ceiling of the house with expanded clay is carried out from the outside. Before this, steam and waterproofing are installed. In this capacity, you can use ordinary PVC film, but roofing felt will not work: it can release harmful compounds.

The action plan is as follows:

  • The outgoing part of the pipe and wiring are insulated with non-flammable materials, for example, iron sheets or metal pipes.
  • The entire surface is covered with waterproofing, which is secured using a construction stapler or tape. The joints are being processed.
  • Next, a vapor barrier is laid. It is best to lay it overlapping and also secure it with a stapler.
  • A 5-centimeter layer of softened clay is laid on the vapor barrier layer.
  • Expanded clay is poured in a layer of 15 cm or more.
  • To protect the material, a screed of cement and sand is made on it.


If there is no access above the ceiling, it is necessary to insulate it from the inside. Since in in this case The thermal insulation will be in the room itself, it will lose a few centimeters of height.

Internal insulation is easy to do. First, the vapor barrier is attached, followed by the insulation itself, and again the vapor barrier layer. It is necessary to make two vapor barrier layers, as they will protect the rafters, insulation and the inside of the ceiling from dampness. After all this work you can install decorative ceiling.

So, the procedure for insulating from the inside:

  • The first layer of vapor barrier is attached. It could be the same glassine. To attach it, glue can be applied to its surface in several areas.
  • Next, a mounting rail is packed through the vapor barrier, in which holes are then drilled for self-tapping screws. The screws themselves are then carefully tightened using a screwdriver.
  • Next comes a layer of insulation itself. For example, foam plastic is inserted between the mounting rails.
  • Then a second layer of vapor barrier is made, attached to the slats.
  • Now the entire structure can be hidden under PVC panels.

If you work carefully and slowly, the ceiling will turn out smooth and beautiful, and the insulation will be completely invisible.


Wooden buildings are quite warm, but in our harsh winters they require mandatory additional insulation. More than a third of all heat loss occurs through ceilings; warm layers of air accumulate in the ceiling space and exit the room through natural pores and cracks in the wood. Obviously, the ceiling is one of the most vulnerable structures through which heat leaks occur. Let's look at how to properly insulate the ceiling in a wooden house with your own hands.

Methods for performing insulation

The basis of the ceiling of wooden houses is timber or logs onto which boards are sewn. Insulation of ceilings is carried out in two ways:

If this has not yet been done in the new home interior decoration or ceiling repairs are planned in an existing one, then insulation can be done using any of these methods. And if the ceilings are beautifully lined and do not require repairs, then think about the need for insulation from the inside, in which a new lining will require financial costs. In addition, the second method will reduce the height of the room and is more labor-intensive to implement.

In both cases, the technology for performing the work is similar and consists of the following operations:

  • vapor barrier;
  • heat insulator;
  • waterproofing;
  • finishing cladding.

Choice of insulation

Due to the many insulating materials, the question is which better insulation use for the ceiling of a wooden house is ambiguous even for professionals.

When choosing a material, you need to analyze the following indicators:

  • environmental safety for human health;
  • good characteristics in strength, moisture resistance and durability;
  • fire resistance;
  • reliability of heat and sound insulation characteristics.

Thermal insulators are divided into the following types:

  • bulk (expanded clay, sawdust) are used only for external insulation;
  • rolled (basalt or fiberglass mats);
  • rigid and semi-rigid slabs (foam, mineral wool);
  • sprayed (polyurethane foam, ecowool).

Let's consider the installation of ceiling insulation in a wooden house using the most popular materials.

Insulation with sawdust

Sawdust is one of the cheapest heat insulators obtained by sawing wood, which can often be obtained for free; some companies simply do not know how to get rid of them.

Depending on the equipment used for sawing, sawdust can range in size from 5 to 30 mm. The best are considered to be those obtained by sawing oak boards dried in thermal chambers.

Raw materials must meet the following basic requirements:

  • particles should be of medium size; for small and dusty particles they are significantly reduced thermal insulation characteristics;
  • It is unacceptable to use material with traces of mold and a musty smell;
  • use of fresh sawdust and shavings with natural humidity not recommended; before use, the raw materials must be kept in dry rooms for at least a year;
  • mandatory treatment with antiseptic compounds and fire retardants, followed by drying before use.

Stages of work:

  1. Dismantling the existing flooring in the attic and cleaning the surface from debris, dirt and dust. Seal all cracks with tow and blow out polyurethane foam.
  2. Treatment wooden base antiseptic and fire-fighting drugs.
  3. Installation of hermetic waterproofing with an overlap on ceiling beams, you can use thick plastic film or glassine and seal the seams with construction tape.
  4. The heat-insulating mixture is prepared in a large separate container. For this purpose for ten buckets clean water a bucket of cement is added and thoroughly mixed until the resulting milk is homogeneous. Then sawdust is added with constant stirring. The approximate ratio is 10 buckets of sawdust to 1.5 water with cement. The resulting mixture should have the consistency of a thick dough with dense enveloping of all sawdust particles. It should be visually rich grey colour no visible white spots. Instead of cement, you can use clay, which is soaked in a container until it swells and mixed with sawdust in a ratio of 1 to 0.75. Ready-made mats made from clay-sawdust mixtures are popular.
  5. Uniform distribution of the mixture between the joists with smoothing with a trowel and light compaction.
  6. If the attic is planned to be used for living or as a workshop, then a vapor barrier is installed along the logs with fastening wooden slats, which will create the necessary ventilation gap for condensate evaporation, and lay OSB boards, floorboards or moisture resistant plywood. If desired, you can arrange it on top finishing coat(laminate, linoleum, parquet board).

Good thermal insulation of ceilings is obtained from sawdust granules made from fine fractions of raw materials, held together with carboxymethylcellulose glue with the addition of antiseptic compounds and fire retardants. Such ready-made granules are unattractive to rodents, practically do not shrink and have low thermal conductivity.

IN pure form dry sawdust is rarely used due to its constant self-compaction during operation, which requires periodic addition to preserve required thickness layer. In this case, antiseptic and fire retardant treatment is mandatory, but a high degree of fire danger is saved.

How to insulate a ceiling in a wooden house with your own hands using penoplex

Penoplex is extruded foamed polystyrene, produced in the form of slabs with an L-shaped edge, which ensures a good fit between them.

The advantages of this popular insulation include:

  • environmentally friendly, without the release of unpleasant fumes and odors during operation;
  • compressive and bending strength (unlike foam, which breaks easily);
  • almost zero vapor permeability, allowing you to do without laying a vapor barrier layer;
  • high resistance to fire;
  • not susceptible to rotting;
  • low water absorption;
  • versatility of use both indoors and outdoors at temperatures from -50 to +75 degrees;
  • durability ≥ 50 years;
  • does not cake during prolonged use;
  • light weight of slabs;
  • ease of cutting with improvised tools;
  • low cost.

When installed indoors, the ceiling must have a flat and hard surface. Pre-cleaning of old paint and varnish compositions, dirt and dust. Then 2 primer coats are applied. The slab with a special adhesive applied is pressed tightly against the ceiling, the next one is laid close to it. To increase the reliability of fixation, it is additionally recommended to fasten with dowels with large special washers at the rate of 4 pieces per square meter. m. If necessary, puttying and sealing of existing seams is carried out, and then the finishing decorative finishing. You can mount a suspended or suspended ceiling, as well as secure the lining.

For external insulation, the heat insulator is placed tightly on the sheathing between the joists. All seams are foamed with polyurethane foam. Even if the attic will not be used, it is advisable to lay waterproofing material on top of the insulation and cover it with sheets of plywood.

Insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool is produced in the form of rolls and slabs, which can be rigid or semi-rigid. The heat insulator has good thermal characteristics and is low cost, but in its production it is used as binders phenol-formaldehyde resins, which during operation emit substances harmful to human health. The material has a brittle structure, so in case of any damage, the air will contain small light particles, which also poses a danger. The insulation absorbs water well with reduced thermal insulation properties. Due to the above negative factors, ceiling insulation is carried out only from the attic side, with the only exception being basalt wool.

  1. Cleaning the floor from dirt and removing mold and fungi. Sealing cracks with mounting foam The cracks are sealed with mounting foam (large ones with tow). All wooden crafts treated with antiseptics and fire retardants.
  2. A vapor barrier device to prevent moisture from entering the thickness of the insulation. The membrane film is laid with a 10 cm overlap. The joints are taped with tape.
  3. Performing lathing wooden blocks. The pitch is slightly less than the width of the thermal insulator.
  4. Laying slabs between beams. They fit tightly, but without compressing. If they are installed inside rooms, they are mounted with glue and fastened with dowels with a wide head or slats.
  5. Waterproofing with a small ventilation gap from the insulation. Finish finishing coating. Can be arranged indoors suspension systems, suspended ceilings or clapboard finishing. On uninhabited attic It’s just a subfloor, but in a residential area, tiles, laminate or linoleum are laid on boards.

Application of sprayed heat insulators

Such insulation materials create seamless thermal insulation with high thermal and strength properties. The only drawback is high price material and the need to use special equipment for application.

The decision on how to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house largely depends on the price of the material, but cheap materials, are generally short-lived, so saving in such cases is not advisable.

The house must be warm. There is hardly a person who would argue with this statement. But in order for the house to be warm, it is not enough just to heat it, you also need to properly retain the heat. And since 30% of the heat escapes through the roof, ceiling insulation can be called one of the most important stages insulation of the house, especially in cases where it is made of wood.

A wooden ceiling can be insulated both from the inside of the room (though in this case its height will be significantly reduced) and from the outside (that is, from the attic). We will look at the most popular insulation options, so you can certainly choose the one that suits you best. the best way will suit you. So, we insulate the wooden ceiling ourselves.

Insulating a wooden ceiling with sawdust

Let's start with the oldest, but no less effective method, namely, insulating the ceiling with sawdust. This simple and affordable thermal insulation material allows you to insulate the ceiling simply and, importantly, very cheaply. To do this, you will need sawdust, some cement and glassine waterproofing material (if this is not available, you can use ordinary plastic film).

Sawdust is simple and available material

Before describing the sawdust insulation technology, it is necessary to say a few words about the requirements for raw materials:

  • The sawdust should be large enough. Small “tyrsa” has a fairly high thermal conductivity and, accordingly, is not suitable for insulation;
  • The sawdust must be well dried;
  • Sawdust must be carefully treated with antifungal agents;
  • It is better to use sawdust that is at least one year old.

The procedure for carrying out work on insulating the ceiling with sawdust is as follows:


To prepare a solution for 5 square meters area will need 20 buckets of sawdust, 3 buckets of water and 0.3 buckets of cement. Dissolve the cement in water, add sawdust and mix thoroughly. As a result, all sawdust should turn a uniform gray color.


Sawdust based solution
  • Ready mixture We lay a layer of at least 20 centimeters between the joists.

After the solution has dried, the sawdust coating will become hard enough so that, if necessary, you can walk on it.

Application of mineral wool

Mineral wool is one of the most popular insulation materials and, naturally, suitable for insulation wooden attic.


Lay carefully without gaps

Working with it is very simple: rolls of cotton wool need to be rolled out in the space between the joists, previously covered with a layer of glassine (if there was flooring, then, as in the previous case, it must be removed).

Try to lay the wool without cracks, since enough water will escape through them. a large number of heat.

To secure the cotton mats, it is necessary to drive nails with large heads along their edges at a distance of approximately 1 meter from each other and stretch a fixing cord diagonally between them.

Ceiling insulation with foam plastic

Polystyrene foam is the lightest thermal insulation material. Its relatively small thickness makes it possible to use foam plastic for both external and internal insulation ceiling.


To improve thermal insulation, seal the joints with tape.

The technology of foam insulation is quite simple:

  • We lay a layer of glassine over the entire surface of the ceiling. If insulation is carried out with inside, glassine can be secured using a construction stapler;
  • We stuff guide strips onto the glassine paper. When insulating from the attic side, this stage can be skipped - the role of the slats will be played by the logs;

If in the future you are going to finish the ceiling with plasterboard, then instead of slats it is better to use aluminum profiles, on which the drywall will be attached.


  • We lay another layer of glassine on top of the foam.

If you are insulating the ceiling from the attic side, for an additional effect, you can pour a layer of expanded clay chips onto the foam.

Working with penofol


Place foil on the heat loss side

Penofol is foamed polyethylene with one foil side.

Due to the reflective properties of the foil, which is located on the side of possible heat loss, penofol copes well with its insulation functions, and given its small thickness, it can easily be used not only outside ceiling, but also indoors.

Installation of penofol is quite simple:

  • A sheathing of thin slats is placed on the surface of the ceiling;
  • Penofol is laid on top of the sheathing, which is secured with nails with a wide head;
  • Another sheathing is laid on the penofol.

Video about thermal insulation with penofol

To improve thermal insulation, penofol can be combined with other insulation materials, such as polystyrene foam. You can learn more about how to do this from the following video:

Polyurethane foam is applied using special equipment

This is enough effective method, however, it is impossible to carry out such work on your own - to apply a layer of polyurethane foam you need special equipment, which does not make sense to purchase for the sake of insulating one house.

As you can see, insulating the ceiling in a wooden house is quite simple and, importantly, not at all expensive. However, we should not forget that the ceiling is not the only place in the house through which heat can escape. Therefore, do not forget to insulate the walls, windows and doors along with the ceiling. Good luck with your renovation!

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