Roller imitating sidewalk. Laying paving slabs on a concrete base: step-by-step technology

Paving slabs have become perhaps the only acceptable option for creating pedestrian paths on suburban area, pedestrian paths in parks, sidewalks, barbecue areas. It is indeed more durable than concrete and wood, more practical than gravel and safer than asphalt, but despite its diversity modern tiles, making your site original is becoming increasingly difficult. And prices for complex figured products are often steep. But there is a way out - you can make paving slabs with your own hands at home.

Advantages and disadvantages of homemade tiles

Those who have not yet decided to create homemade tiles are frightened by two considerations: a significant investment of time and doubts about the quality of the finished products. But if you consider the possibility step-by-step production, which allows you to engage in production on weekends or in your free time, the process is not so long. In addition, the cost of materials will also stretch over time, because allocating 10% from the family budget over 3-4 months is much easier than spending half of the monthly income at once.

As for quality, it is enough to adhere to technology and not try to save much, then the finished tile will serve for decades.

Combination of gray and beige tiles(from white cement) looks stylish and helps save on pigments

Table: comparing the advantages and disadvantages of handicraft paving slabs

As you can see, for every disadvantage of homemade tiles, you can find a corresponding advantage. Therefore, if you want to proudly show off your handiwork to your guests, you can safely begin implementing your planned path design.

Existing manufacturing technologies

The tiles and paving stones that you might have seen among your neighbors are made using only three technologies: pouring into formwork, vibration casting and vibration pressing.

Driveway with imitation paving slabs stamping method

There is also a technique for simulating paving slabs, when the texture is created with stamps on a wet concrete surface. At first glance, the path may look like it is paved, but in fact it is monolithic concrete slab with all its shortcomings. Taking a closer look at the seams, it is easy to notice that they are inseparable from the slabs and are not capable of draining water into the ground. Therefore, if you liked the imitation version you saw in the photo, we recommend reproducing it in classical technology, from individual slabs. In this case, your copy will last 3-4 times longer than the original.

Pouring into removable formwork

Production of paving slabs by pouring into formwork

The technology of pouring into formwork is the simplest and least labor-intensive way to produce paving slabs. The products are cast directly at the site of use on top of compacted soil, so there is no need to spend any effort on drying and moving the slabs. Since the form is removed while the concrete has not completely hardened, you can use only one form and prepare small portions of the solution in a bucket with a construction mixer (without a concrete mixer). The mold can also be filled incompletely, forming neat curves. garden path.

But there are also disadvantages:

• the texture of the front surface of the slabs is always the same, since the shape is open and defines only the edge along the perimeter of each fragment;
• the concrete mixture cannot be compacted by vibration, so more plasticizer should be added to ensure strength;
• Despite the addition of binders, the service life of such tiles is several times less than that of vibrocast tiles.

It is quite easy to distinguish a path from such tiles. As a rule, it imitates the layout wild stone with fragments irregular shape, but the repetition of the pattern is easy to notice. Grass often grows in the seams of such tiles, since they are installed directly on the ground without a sand and gravel cushion and often without backfilling the seams.

Vibrocasting

Vibro-cast paving slabs are the most common option

Vibro-cast slabs are the most common option for paving private areas. The easiest way to distinguish a product of this technology is by design. Neither pouring nor vibration pressing creates a complex tile shape or a fine textured pattern on its surface. Front side vibro-cast tiles are usually more glossy and brighter in color than vibro-pressed tiles.

Other advantages of this finishing material include:

• the service life of the tile is several times longer, since vibration during casting expels air bubbles and increases the water and frost resistance of the product;
• lower consumption of plasticizer (compared to pouring into formwork);
• possibility of producing durable quality tiles at home with minimal equipment;
• a wide variety of ready-made forms from different price categories.

The only disadvantage we can highlight is the small thickness of the slab, which does not allow the finish to withstand high mechanical loads. Smooth tiles also increase the risk of slipping, so we recommend that you select textured shapes for manufacturing.

Vibration pressing

The paving stones in the parking area are vibropressed paving slabs

Vibration pressing - complex technological process. Its main difference from vibration casting is that the solution in the mold is subjected to powerful impacts from a special press. As a result, the density of the concrete-cement mixture increases by an order of magnitude; in its properties, the material is analogous to artificial stone. Therefore, it is used for paving city sidewalks, paths in parks and parking areas in private areas. Thanks to high density The tiles are very frost-resistant, they can withstand up to 300 freezing/thawing cycles.

The method is most often used for production paving stones, not tiles. It is easy to distinguish by its increased thickness and small size (it looks more like a brick than a tile). In addition, such material is usually rougher and its color is paler. Since it is impossible to make a pattern on a separate fragment, to enhance the decorative effect, the paving stones are laid in beautiful patterns (you can use a cross-stitch pattern at home).

Among the disadvantages of vibropressed tiles, we can only highlight high price and considerable weight, which complicates transportation and installation.

Making paving slabs at home

Having compared the advantages and disadvantages of paving slabs made using different technologies, it is not difficult to come to the conclusion of making vibration-cast products at home. All that remains is to decide on the equipment and necessary materials.

Even with homemade equipment you can cast good tiles from improvised materials

What is needed for work

As a rule, owners country houses have at least a little experience in construction, and many even build their home from the first foundation stone to the ridge on the roof. Therefore, you probably have some necessary tools and minimal skills to work with them.

Table: equipment for vibratory casting of paving slabs

How to make a vibrating table yourself

Pouring slabs without vibration reduces the durability of the product by an order of magnitude, although this is not noticeable in appearance at first. Adding an additional volume of plasticizer to the solution slightly improves the situation, but experienced craftsmen still advise using at least a makeshift vibrating table.

Diagram of a simple vibrating table

As can be seen from the diagram, the main difference between a vibrating table and a regular one is that the tabletop is attached to the base not rigidly, but through springs. This allows you to create the necessary vibration and at the same time ensure a stable horizontal position of the tile. If you have an unnecessary one kitchen table with a metal frame, it may well become the basis for the necessary equipment. All that remains is to attach the tabletop through the springs and fix the motor from an old washing machine under it.

If you are determined to make a fully functional analogue of an industrial vibrating table, you should start with a drawing.

Detailed drawing of a vibrating table indicating exact dimensions

In the found drawing you can change:

• height of the legs (the main thing is that there is enough material and it is comfortable for you to use);
• proportions and size of the tabletop (it is desirable that all forms of one batch fit on the table);
• the number of springs (if it seems to you that the available springs are weak, you can add more to the four in the corners along the middle line of the long sides).

If you wish, you can reproduce this drawing exactly, or find a more suitable one on the Internet.

To implement the project you will need the following tools and materials:

• welding machine (a wooden base is not suitable for the product, and the fastening of the frame with bolts will quickly become loose from vibration, so welding is indispensable);
• grinder for cutting metal with appropriate discs (it is better to buy consumables with a reserve);
• drill for drilling mounting holes with a sharp drill bit;
• electric motor (for the production of a small batch, a single-phase motor with a power of 700 W will be enough);
• sheet metal for the countertop 6 mm thick or more (you can get by with more thin sheet, but it will need to be reinforced with rods or mesh and welded to the frame from the corner);
• metal corner (to determine the amount of material, add 4 table lengths and 4 widths);
• pipes of suitable length for table legs;
• sections of pipes with a diameter 2–4 mm larger than the diameter of the springs (needed to build glasses);
• 4 springs measuring 120x60 mm (used valve springs from a truck engine, which are often thrown away at service stations, are suitable)

The correct spring for a vibrating table sags by 50% under the weight of the tile.

If you can place the vibration table indoors, it is worth attaching it to the floor. There is no need to weld; long hardware secured with self-tightening locknuts will suffice (they only secure it more firmly against vibration).

This model of electronic potentiometer is suitable for operation in a standard 220 Volt power supply.

To create the ideal vibration, you may need to adjust the motor speed. Therefore, when making a vibration table, do not skimp on the electronic potentiometer. He will help you adjust the device for optimal compaction of the tiles.

Let's get started:

1. Weld the frame of the vibrating table following the proposed diagram. Be sure to check the correct angles and placement of the cups under the springs, so that later the tiles lie strictly horizontally and do not “jump” off the table when working.

   Angle clamp - best device for correct welding of right angles

2. Cut the sheet of metal to the required size and weld a narrow strip or corner to it around the perimeter so that a side with a height of at least 5 cm is formed.

   The wider the corner, the higher the side and the more reliable the tabletop

3. Weld the springs to the base and tabletop, placing them exactly in the center of the glasses.

   The springs are welded at the corners of the frame, all that remains is to secure the tabletop

4. Place the electric motor under the tabletop and, if necessary, weld a separate mount for it. Attach a weight with an offset center to the motor shaft.

   The motor mount can be made from leftover corners or pipes

5. Connect the potentiometer and bring the wire with the switch to a convenient side of the table and secure it to the leg.

   If the button is not secured, it may slip due to vibration.

6. Rigidly fix the table to the base in the most convenient way (the choice depends on where and on what the operating device will be placed). If the table does not move during operation, it is not necessary to secure it.

   Tests of this vibrating table have shown that it is quite massive and does not move during operation.

After assembling the structure, tests should be carried out without tiles and make sure that all connections are secure. Correct if necessary welds, adjust the motor speed, make other adjustments.

Video: making a vibrating table

Varieties of forms for paving slabs

Tile shapes should be distinguished primarily by design:

• open (essentially a frame without top and bottom) are designed for pouring tiles directly at the place of use;
• Tray molds are only suitable for vibration casting.

There are also special metal molds for vibrocompression, but they are needed only in production.

A variety of non-standard shapes for paving slabs

If we talk about the design of paving slabs, here manufacturers offer hundreds of different shapes for making beautiful tiles:

• geometric tiles (squares, rectangles, five-, six-, octagons, circles);
• paving stones (imitation of ancient cobblestones, small bricks, rounded cubes);
• patterned tiles (models “Lily”, “Antique”, “Rondo” and others with fine detailed patterns);
• fantasy forms (leaves, turtles, fish, lizards, puzzles, scales);
• tiles with bas-relief ( convex images greek heroes, dragons, snakes, Chinese epic characters, etc.).

Manufacturers offer molds for making halves of tiles, which allows you to avoid cutting entire products when laying them.

Table: comparison of forms for paving slabs from different materials

Gallery: molds for paving slabs from different materials

How to make molds with your own hands

Homemade forms for paving slabs are justified in two cases: either you want to save as much as possible, or you are going to create a completely exclusive design. In the first case, you should use available materials: pieces of wood, scraps of plastic, unnecessary trays, molded plastic from packaging.

The process of making patterned paving slabs in homemade form

Let's consider the process of making a mold based on a rubber mat.

To create this shape, you will need a sheet of plastic or any other smooth material and four boards for the sides (you can take an unnecessary box from an old bedside table). The joint between the base and the sides will need to be sealed with construction silicone. It is advisable that the size of the mold be exactly adjusted to the parameters of the rug. The mat should be carefully secured to the bottom with the same construction sealant. To check the correct assembly, try pouring water into the mold, it will help identify cracks. Treat the mold with oil, and you can start pouring it for the first time.

Making tiles in a homemade wooden mold

Wooden formwork can serve as the basis for more complex shapes. For example, such a split hexagon can be made from any pieces of wood found at the dacha; you just need to straighten their geometry and carefully check the dimensions. If desired, you can build a form divided into cells the size of a vibrating table and carry out pouring and drying directly on it.

The process of making a silicone mold for paving stones

The process of creating a silicone mold will not do without formwork. For manufacturing, it is advisable to have a sample of the desired tile or fill the formwork with stones of suitable shape, pebbles, tiles, etc. It is best to fill the bottom of the formwork with sculptural plasticine and place the selected samples on it so that they do not move during pouring. After this, strictly according to the instructions (each manufacturer has its own), mix the components of the silicone compound and fill the formwork with them. You can make several forms in one formwork, or create different variants location or shape of stones.

Using the same technology, homemade molds are made from gypsum, polyurethane, and injection molded plastic.

Before use, molds of any origin should be lubricated with “Emulsol”, spindle oil or an emulsion of 1.5 liters of soap solution and 50 g of vegetable/mineral oil.

Video: testing mold release agents

Materials for the solution

When making the solution you will need:

• cement of a grade not lower than M500 to ensure the strength of the tiles;
• sand (necessarily cleaned and thoroughly sifted) as a filler;
• fine gravel or screenings (filler, strengthens the solution, makes the product textured);
• pure water room temperature without sediment;
• fiberglass for reinforcing tiles, increasing resistance to mechanical loads (instead of fiber, you can lay a reinforcing mesh in each mold);
• plasticizer marked C-3 (makes the solution homogeneous, increases frost and water resistance, reduces cement consumption);
• dye for concrete mixtures in powder form or ready solution(if you need colored tiles).

To give the tiles additional water-repellent properties and speed up curing, liquid glass can be added to the solution.

Tiles require fresh cement. Squeeze the powder in your fist: if it’s all spilled out, it’s fine; if it’s gathered in a lump, it’s too old.

How to mix the solution

1. Moisten the walls of the concrete mixer, pour 2 liters into the tank warm water and completely dissolve the plasticizer in it.

   Liquid plasticizer is easier to work with, it dissolves quickly and without lumps

2. In a separate container, mix the dye with hot water in a ratio of 1:3 and stir until completely dissolved.

   The higher the pigment concentration, the brighter the tile will be.

3. When you are sure that there are no lumps in both solutions, mix them and add sand to the concrete mixer, after 30 seconds - screening, 20 seconds after that - cement. Add water as needed until the specified volume is used.

   Calculate the volume of one portion so that your concrete mixer can mix it thoroughly

4. The finished mass should be homogeneous, without foreign inclusions, and should stay on the trowel in a heap without slipping.

   It is easy to work with a solution of the correct consistency using a trowel of any shape

Table: optimal proportions of components for paving slabs

How to cast, dry and remove formwork

1. The finished solution is poured into greased molds, or directly on a vibrating table.

   Rectangular shapes are placed more tightly on the table, which allows you to increase the batch

2. After this, vibration starts, during which the mixture thickens and will need to be topped up. Keep a batch of tiles without plasticizer on the vibrating table for 3 minutes, without it - 30 seconds, or until white foam appears.

   The foam is clearly visible on the forms, which means the air has already left the solution.

3. Next, you should wrap the filled forms with film and leave them to dry on a rack for 2-3 days.

   OSB sheets + pipe scraps = temporary shelving

4. Dried tiles can be easily removed from the mold; just bend the ends and shake the product onto a soft surface. But if that doesn't work, lower the form for a few seconds. hot water- the mold will expand and the tile will slip out.

   Vertical stacking prevents tiles from splitting during storage

Video: DIY paving slabs

Laying paving slabs with your own hands - step-by-step instructions

Laying paving slabs yourself will not be physically easy, so it is worth inviting one or two assistants to do the work.

Required materials and tools

• trowel for working with mortar;
• mallet for tapping tiles;
• manual rammer;
• marking pegs and cord;
• water level;
• pipe/beam as a guide;
• watering can or watering hose for compacting the sand cushion;
• rake, broom;
• cement grade M500;
• clean sifted sand.

Execution of work

1. Draw a plan for the location of the paths and mark the area using pegs and a cord. Please note that for normal drainage you need to make a slope of 5 mm per 1 m of length.
2. Prepare the base of the walkway by removing upper layer soil with grass and compacting the remaining soil. It can be done manual tamper, but it is better to rent a special vibrator. The depth of the resulting trench should be 20–30 cm.

   Methods for creating cushions for paving slabs

3. Lay the tiles on top of the pillow away from you, taking into account the position of the marking cord. The width of the seams is adjusted with plastic crosses. If necessary, cut the tiles into fragments to densely fill the space between the borders. Level the position of the tiles with a mallet.

   A contrasting border makes the path more original

Video: laying paving slabs

Determining profitability

On average, it turns out that 1 m2 of homemade paving slabs costs 55% less than purchased ones. And if you consider that the mold resource is enough for 100–200 cycles, subsequent batches will be even more profitable. Of course, with the current level of competition, creating a business for the production of paving slabs is no longer profitable, but it is worth producing it for your own needs.

Now you have all the necessary knowledge to successfully manufacture and lay beautiful and durable paving slabs on your site.

If you need to pave a path, then paving slabs are perfect for this. It looks more attractive compared to asphalt or concrete, while in terms of strength it is not inferior to these materials. It will be easier to use the services of specialists who are proficient in masonry techniques. However, if you are unable to pay them $10 for square meter, then for a while you can become a bridge builder and do the work yourself.

The main condition for success in this case is adherence to technology. By the way, it is not so complicated, and you can find all the necessary tools even in your shed. The material can be laid on a bed of sand and cement, concrete and gravel. However, this article will consider an example of laying paving slabs on the latter, which is a flat area that will provide higher coating strength than a sand-cement pad.

This approach is especially relevant for those areas that will be impacted by heavy equipment. It will even be possible to park vehicles on such a site. And it’s easier to level the tiles to one level if underneath there is not a moving layer, but a solid cushion. It will not allow the surface to shrink during the hardening process - the path will be strong and will not have dips. In addition, the master will not have problems with compaction. Therefore, if you do not have experience in laying paving slabs, it is best to lay them on concrete. So do it similar works you can do it yourself.

However, it is worth remembering that this method is not used so often, since the technology has some features. They are, in particular, expressed in the need to withdraw excess moisture from the coating surface. If a cushion of cement and sand is used, then the moisture will go into the hygroscopic base, and the path will not be damaged.

If you use concrete as a rough surface, then water, having seeped under the paving stones, will not be able to go deeper, since the monolithic base will not let it through. As a result, moisture will remain between the tile and the base. As soon as frost hits, the water will begin to expand and push out the coating. The result may be swelling of the material in some places. Therefore, when pouring the solution Special attention attention should be paid to drainage. For this purpose, point moisture inlets and storm drains are created, but the paving stones themselves will need to be laid with a certain slope. If everything is organized correctly, the paths will be more durable than those laid on traditional cushions of sand and cement.

Site preparation

If you decide to work on concrete, then first you need to prepare the site for work. To do this, the territory is divided, pegs are driven in around the perimeter and red marks are placed. This construction term refers to a thread that is pulled taut between pegs. It will outline the boundaries of the height of the site.

To do this, you can use twine, which is tied to pegs where the tile will end. It is important to take into account the need for a 5° slope to the insertion point of the receivers. Before laying paving slabs on concrete, you should check how much free space there is from the thread to the ground. If it is less than 30 cm, then all excess should be removed and taken away. Fertile soil is poured into the places where flower beds are planned.

The edge of the earthen “trough” is reinforced with curbs. Some recommend installing them after pouring the mortar, but then you will have to protect the edge of the site from crumbling soil when installing the formwork. For inexperienced craftsmen, the first option will be preferable. If you plan to use a curb whose height is 50 cm, then you need to dig a trench another 30 cm deep.

And the bottom is covered with a 10-centimeter layer of crushed stone, then cement mortar is poured. The layer should be 1.5 cm. A curb is installed on it, and the top edge after completion of the work should be 3 cm lower than the edge of the paving stones. This is necessary so that the curbs do not retain water on the surface and help drain it away. If the curb has a smaller height, then the depth of the trench is reduced.

Pouring concrete

Laying paving slabs on concrete next stage provides for pouring the solution. A day later you can start pouring. To create a platform on which equipment will move, the base must be reinforced. To do this, you should use reinforcement, which is tied into cells with a side of 15 cm. If the paths are pedestrian, then reinforcement will not be required.

Creating drainage

In order for moisture to penetrate further, getting through the tiles onto the concrete, it is necessary to create drainage holes. For this purpose it is used asbestos pipe. It is cut into pieces, each of which is 20 cm long. The height should match the height of the concrete layer. Pieces of asbestos are laid out throughout the area. There should be one such drainage per square meter. They should not be removed after the concrete has been poured. You can create holes from boards by nailing them into a square shape. However, after the concrete has hardened, the wood should be removed.

Work methodology

If you will be laying paving slabs on concrete on the street, then at the next stage you need to prepare a mortar from M-200 cement. It is poured in a layer of 15 cm, which is true for a non-reinforced base. If there is reinforcement, the layer should be increased to 20 cm. Every three meters it is necessary to create expansion joint, if the site is of impressive size. This is achieved by pressing boards into the concrete. The thickness of the latter should be 0.5 cm.

After the solution has hardened, the boards should be removed, while the voids should be filled with elastic filler. The upper part of the seam is coated with concrete to level the surface. After a day, the wooden formwork is removed from drainage holes, and the space is filled with fine-grained crushed stone.

Forming a cushion of cement and sand

Laying paving slabs on concrete with your own hands involves forming a cushion. The work algorithm is as follows. The sand must be sifted and mixed with cement in a ratio of 6 to 1. The site is covered with a layer of up to 10 cm, and the thickness of the paving stones should be taken into account. The resulting cushion is compacted with a vibrating plate.

Working with beacons

Now you can check the tension of the rope to ensure the incline. It is better to place pegs as often as possible, because the thread sags mm. Beacons are placed around the site. They should be pressed against the pillow so that there is a distance from the lace to the beacon. Using the rule, focusing on the beacons, you need to tighten the pillow to get a flat surface. The first beacons are removed, and tiles can begin to be laid in this area. The furrows are filled with the same mixture, now you can begin laying the tiles.

The technology for laying paving slabs on concrete involves installing products with 5 mm seams. They prevent cracking of the material when the coating begins to deteriorate due to changes in moisture and temperature. You need to start work from the curb. You should move along the marks, heading to the place where the water will flow.

The surface of each product is leveled by tapping with a rubber mallet. The entire surface is subsequently pressed with a vibrating plate so that the tiles sit along the stretched threads. If such equipment is not available, then a wide cut of the board should be used when laying. It is placed on several tiles and hammered to the desired height with a mallet.

If you are planning to do the concrete yourself, step-by-step instruction will help you with the work. From it you can find out that the tile joints are filled with the mixture that was used to create the pillow. You can also use for this fine sand. Using the first option, you will create a monolithic coating that will be less permeable to moisture. Among other things, grass will not grow in the seams.

However, the coating may crack if it gets touched. You should use a home broom to fill the seams with sand or mixture. The composition is scattered over the surface, and then carefully swept into the seams. Excess material should be disposed of. At this point we can assume that laying paving slabs on concrete base completed with my own hands.

Laying tiles on a concrete blind area

The technology for installing tiles on a blind area made of concrete is almost no different from that described above. At the first stage, marking is carried out, then pegs are set, between which a nylon thread should be pulled. Next, you should begin preparing the soil. You need to start by dismantling the old coating, if any.

Laying paving slabs on a concrete blind area involves preparing the bottom of the trench, onto which a layer of clay is poured. In this case, it is important to ensure a slope of 2 cm. Everything is compacted well, then covered with a layer of gravel and compacted well. Lay geotextiles on top and fix its edges to the foundation. The layer of sand is filled in at the next stage, and it is watered with water to compact it.

Nuances of the technique

Now you can start pouring the solution, which is prepared from part cement and three parts sand. Everything should be leveled using profiles, not forgetting to form the level of inclination. At the next stage, you can begin installing the tiles. You can do this the next day. Products in this case are usually placed diagonally. The final stage will fill the seams. The entire surface is watered with a hose using a spray nozzle. This will allow the tile to lock firmly into place.

Conclusion

Many homeowners wonder how concrete is laid with the effect of paving slabs. In this case we are talking about printed or stamped concrete. It is an ordinary solution, onto the surface of which it is applied using special stamps. decorative embossing. The final pattern can imitate paving stones or paving slabs. This design is especially popular for terraces or areas near swimming pools. Even before stamping, the surface can be subjected to a procedure that gives the coating a tint. To do this, the composition is rubbed into concrete. If this method does not suit you, then you can lay paving slabs on old concrete. The technology remains the same.

A couple of weeks ago I decided to improve appearance gray concrete surface at the entrance to the house (length 7.25 m, width 2.25 m). Laying tiles is both expensive and labor-intensive, and finding nice, large paving slabs for the street is not easy. Therefore, I found an original solution - I painted the concrete, making imitation tiles.
1. To do imitation tiles I needed a stencil. First, I found a suitable picture on the Internet and cut out a stencil.
I found a plastic stencil somewhere at home, I even had to put it together in two parts, it turned out to be narrow. Any transparencies, which holds its shape or thin transparent plastic that you can cut with a craft knife will do. The film is placed on top of the picture and secured with tape so that it does not move. Cut on a board or special covering so as not to spoil the table, and that’s it.

I only used one stencil. Then I cut it into two parts so that the narrow strip along the wall would be easier to finish. Of course, it’s faster to manage with 2 stencils. While one is drying, use the other and apply the pattern from the opposite edge. The print must also dry, otherwise the edges will smudge. But modern paints dry very quickly, especially if the day is warm and windy.
2. Next comes priming and at the same time painting the concrete light color. When everything is dry, apply marking lines for the stencil.

3. Then paint with a roller through a stencil. Special paints for exterior concrete work. In some places the print is imperfect; after all, the surface of concrete is very rough in places, so we touch it up with a brush.

Source:

In order to give an original and finished look to your summer cottage You can't do without beautiful garden paths! But sometimes it may not be enough to trample paths and make flower borders. Most often, for the purposes of not only functionality, but also beauty, the design of your landscape requires laying paths with paving slabs.

Or maybe we can do it ourselves?

Easiest to buy ready material and hire workers. But creative people who have put a lot of imagination into their personal plot, they will not refuse to do it and now they will choose another option - hand-made. To do this, they will only need to familiarize themselves with the master class: how to make paving slabs with their own hands.

This option, in addition to saving money and expressing creative flight of thought, has its advantages:

1. By showing a little imagination, you will create an exclusive, unique style for your territory.
2. Since you yourself will be responsible for production and installation, this will give a 100% guarantee of the quality of the work, subject to the rules of technology.

Where to begin?

First you need to acquire the necessary tools:

• a drill with a special mixer attachment for thoroughly mixing the concrete solution;
• trowel for leveling and compaction;
• molds, whose sizes and shapes will determine the finished paving slabs.

At first, square or rectangular containers for food made of thick plastic will be suitable; a little later you can purchase special molds for pouring at a hardware store.

Concrete forms made easy

First you need formwork. It is preferable to choose a shape in which the tiles fit well together.

We place formwork on a grass-free and leveled area, fill it with concrete mortar, thoroughly compact it and leave it to harden for several days. Then we move the form to another place and repeat the process.

When such a path is ready, the gaps between the tiles can be tightly filled with sand, soil, or filled with a more liquid solution to increase strength.

Imitation stone

The modern choice of factory forms for creating paving slabs allows you not only to adjust the width and tortuosity of the garden path, but also allows you to create an imitation of stone.

This creation process is similar to the previous one, with the only difference being that in order to avoid cracks, the tiles require moistening and, in some cases, protection with plastic film.

The path is considered suitable for use if, after 20-30 days, there is no trace left on it from a hammer blow.

General information: materials, proportions and technologies

The solution that is poured into the molds consists of:

• cement, while experts recommend grade 500;
• sand, which must be sifted before use;
• water, clean and fresh;
• inorganic dyes that are resistant to water and sunlight.

Technology and proportions:

1. Cement and sand are poured into the container where the solution will be mixed in a ratio of 1:3.

2. Gradually pouring in water and thoroughly stirring with a construction mixer, achieve the consistency when the resulting cement can be scooped onto a trowel.

3. The inner surface of the mold is lubricated with oil and cement is poured into it, which must be compacted, and the surface must be leveled with a trowel.

4. It is better to carry out both preliminary drying (at least 5 days, in a mold) and subsequent drying (about 30 days, without a mold) under a canopy. In hot weather, you can protect the tiles from cracking by moisturizing.

Pebbles to the rescue!

This master class is suitable for those who live near a river or have the opportunity to bring a lot of pebbles from the sea coast.

1. Select pebbles - medium or large ones will look more aesthetically pleasing.

2. Prepare one formwork or several, depending on your idea.

3. Cover the formwork with plastic film and lubricate it with any oil to make it easier to remove the finished tiles.

4. Fill concrete mortar, compact and level the surface.

5. Place pebbles on it

6. Using a trowel, press the pebbles into the solution.

7. Dry the tiles in the mold for about 4 days, moisturizing and preventing cracking.

The created paving slabs will be in harmony with other design elements of your site.

In cases where it is planned to use paving slabs to create and improve sidewalks in high-traffic areas or to equip areas for parking and passage of cars, laying should be done on a concrete base.

It is this technology that is designed for high loads and can be used not only on private land plots, but also within the city for the arrangement of pedestrian paths and improvement of the area around shops, including for the entrance and parking of cars.

So how to properly lay paving slabs on a concrete base and avoid mistakes? We'll figure out.

Advantages of this method before laying paving stones on sand are associated with higher strength of the structure:

• the concrete base is resistant to high loads and mechanical damage;
• with the same strength, a simple installation system compared to asphalt pavement - there is no need to install an asphalt roller.

But there are some downsides here:

• the technology is more complex than when laying on a bed of sand and crushed stone;
• when removing a damaged slab for repair, neighboring slabs can be damaged;
• If the technology is not followed, the concrete base may begin to paint after the first winter.

Find out on the pages of our website about. Let's talk about the advantages and disadvantages of this technique.

Do you know how to lay clinker tiles correctly? You will learn about the features of working with this type of paving slabs.

Consumables and tools

To make it easier to carry out work according to the technology, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:

• concrete mixer;
• sand;
• cement grade M500;
• crushed stone;
• 2 building level length 40–50 and 80–100 cm;
• tamping (automatic or manual);
• pegs and durable cord for marking boundaries;
• Master OK;
• rubber mallet;
• irrigation hose with shower nozzle or watering can;
• rake;
• broom.

Quantity calculation

So that there is enough material for all the work and there is not much left over, you need to make markings on the site and measure the perimeter of future sidewalks and platforms, and also calculate their area. Based on these parameters, further calculations will be carried out.

Let's move on to the instructions on how to lay paving slabs on a concrete base and what needs to be done to the concrete before laying.

Preparatory work

The preparatory stage of work is no less important than laying the paving stones themselves. If the base is made with high quality, in accordance with the technology, the sidewalk or platform will be durable and will serve for a long time. The soil is prepared as follows:

1. On the area marked with pegs and a nylon cord, soil is removed to a depth of 25 cm, extending beyond the intended contour to the thickness of the border plus another 2–3 cm. The resulting pit is cleared of plant roots and stones. If the soil is loose, a excavation is made by removing the entire fertile layer, because it is difficult to compact.
2. The bottom is leveled with a rake, moistened with a hose or watering can and compacted to prevent further subsidence of the soil. Only then do they proceed to work on the production of the supporting layer.

On our website we will tell you which one is better to choose. You will learn about the varieties of products and their quality.

Step-by-step instruction

The quality of the load-bearing layer when laying slabs on concrete is very important due to the use of rigid fixation. If done poorly, the structure will quickly crack.

Preparing a concrete pad

To improve the quality of work on preparing a concrete base for paving slabs, you can use a three-dimensional geogrid - a honeycomb-shaped structure made of synthetic material, resistant to decay and chemical influences.

When stretched, such a lattice forms a frame that is stable in the horizontal and vertical directions, reinforcing any bulk material, placed in cells. The service life of such a grating is up to half a century.

Installation of curbs

In the recess remaining after dismantling the formwork, you need to install curbs. To do this, hard concrete is made, placed in the ditch with a trowel, and curb stones are installed on it one by one.

A rubber mallet is used to drive them into the solution. The gaps between the stones are filled with liquid concrete.

The height of the curbs should be at least 20-30mm below the top of the paving stones so as not to interfere with water flow. After a day, when the solution has hardened, the space between the curb stone and the walls of the trench is filled with sand.

How to put it correctly

The dimensions of the plates are selected depending on the purpose: for a sidewalk, a thickness of 4–5 cm is sufficient, and if cars will drive onto the surface, then choose paving stones no thinner than 6 cm.

The slabs are laid dry on a concrete base. sand-cement mixture or with cement-sand mortar.

Sealing seams

Between the paving stones, the seams are covered with dry fiber cement. and pour water on it. The operation is repeated until the mixture stops shrinking. After 2–3 days, when the surface is completely dry, remove construction garbage, use a broom to sweep away fine debris and dust and, if necessary, wash the surface with strong water pressure from a hose.

Useful video

You will learn even more about the technology of laying paving slabs on a concrete base from this video:

Important nuances: can mistakes be avoided?

The width of the paths and the size of the platforms must be provided so that a certain number of whole tiles are laid between the edges - Avoiding unnecessary pruning can result in significant savings.. When laying tiles diagonally, there will be more waste.

Paving stones should be cut using a grinder with a stone disc. To reduce dust, the tiles are cut and then chipped off. Before making a cut, you need to place the slab in its intended place, make a mark and then cut along the mark. This will avoid mistakes and reduce waste.

Surfaces lined with paving slabs should be made with a slight slope for better water drainage. To do this, it is enough that the surface difference is 5 mm per meter.

Tracks can be tilted to one side or make the middle a little higher so that the water flows to the edges. If normal drainage from the surface is not ensured, then stagnant water will gradually seep to the concrete base and, when freezing, tear the paving stones away from it.

If the tiles are made by vibration casting, it is better to fasten them to concrete with special glue, which when minimum thickness layer provides excellent attachment to the base.

The solution should be mixed as close as possible to the pouring site, and concrete cannot be mixed at temperatures below 0°C.

Security measures

First of all, you should follow safety precautions, common to all construction work, supplementing them with the following points:

• when working with cement, you should wear a respirator, and when cutting tiles, you should also wear safety glasses with safety glasses;
• with concrete, in order to avoid corroding the skin of your hands, you need to work with rubber gloves;
• upon completion of work with concrete, all tools used should be washed immediately;
• The paving stones are not allowed to be cut or split when placed on the knee.

When laying paving slabs on a concrete base, you must strictly follow the technology for performing the work. In this case, the concrete will not crack in the first winter, and the tiles will not fall off the base; paths and platforms will last for many years without repair.

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