The general principle of the development of materials processing technology from prehistoric times to the present day is how to make parts for more precise ones using inaccurate equipment. And it all started with a workbench; prototypes of it are found during excavations of Stone Age settlements. It is quite possible to build a workbench, a full-fledged one, with your own hands, and this will not only save a significant amount, but will also simplify, facilitate the work and improve its results.
Three mistakes
Amateurs, sometimes, judging by their designs, very experienced, knowledgeable and diligent, sometimes make themselves workbenches on which, figuratively speaking, you can smash a tank with a sledgehammer. They take a lot of time and labor, and hardly less money than a good branded amateur workbench. Repetition of industrial prototypes in a design for one’s own use, designed for intensive work in 3 shifts and a static load of more than a ton, with a service life of 20 years, is one of typical mistakes development of workbenches of our own design.
The second is neglect of vibrations. Not a clearly felt “game” or “recoil”, but a small tremor that significantly complicates the work and reduces its quality. Vibrations have a particularly strong effect on workbenches on a metal frame.
The third - repeat carpentry or metal workbenches; perhaps with some modifications to suit your needs. Meanwhile, workbench designs for home/hobby work of different nature a lot. There are workbenches that are more or less specialized or, conversely, universal, temporary, made from scrap materials, etc.
In this article we will figure out how to make a workbench taking into account these errors, firstly, simpler and cheaper, in accordance with the range of needs and/or hobbies of the craftsman. Secondly, how to make a workbench general purpose or universal for special conditions use - in a cramped garage, for carpentry at a construction site from scrap rubbish, at home for small precision work, for children.
About universal workbenches
Among the branded products, which are sometimes quite expensive, you can find “universal” workbenches in the form of a carpenter’s bench with a lid without a tray, a complete bench vice on a wooden cushion, and a clamp for their installation, like the one in the photo:
“Universal” factory-made workbench
This is a wrong decision not only because the wooden tabletop is damaged by carpentry work. The main thing that is bad here is the technological fluids used in metal processing - oil, kerosene, etc. Wood soaked in them becomes much more flammable. Self-ignition is also possible; Remember, it is strictly forbidden to accumulate oily rags in production. A different approach to designing the tabletop (board, lid) of a universal workbench is needed based on the type of work it is primarily used for - fine or coarse, see below.
Work bench
In the West, amateur/home workbenches with a stacked table top framed by a side are widespread. Drawings of such a “work bench” are shown in Fig. Under the fitter, the lid is covered with a sheet of steel 1.5-2 mm thick and a vice is placed on the pad.
The bench workbench dampens vibrations well; It can be made from pine or spruce. But the design is complex, and it is inconvenient to work with long materials and furniture on such a workbench. Therefore, we will first look at how to make the most common carpentry workbench, then a garage and a mechanic's workbench. Next we will try to combine them into universal workbench and let's see what we can come up with on this basis for special needs.
Workbench composition
A workbench of “our” type (conditionally, since it is impossible to accurately establish its origin) consists of:
- A bench (in carpentry workbenches), or a bed (in metalworking benches), ensuring the stability of the entire unit and the ergonomics of the workplace.
- Covers, box-shaped or in the form of a tray, giving the work area the necessary rigidity.
- Shelves; possibly with a tray, nests, and stops on which work operations are performed.
- An apron on which the tool is hung. An apron is not a necessary accessory for a workbench; it can hang on the wall or be replaced with a cabinet, rack, etc.
Note: workbench height approx. 900 mm. The length and width are selected according to the installation location and type of work within the range of 1200-2500 and 350-1000 mm, respectively.
The lid and shelf are most often made at the same time, one-piece, and are simply called a lid, a workbench board or a tabletop. To dampen vibrations, the shelf is always made on a base (bed, substrate) made of wood. The bed is being covered in a mechanic's workbench steel sheet from 2 mm thick and can be made of coniferous wood. Its overall strength is sufficient, and the steel tire protects the tree from local damage and the ingress of technical fluids. In a carpentry workbench, a bed made of high-quality (without knots, twists, etc. defects) solid fine-grained wood (oak, beech, hornbeam, elm, walnut) also serves as a shelf; in a workbench for the home, for the sake of simplifying it, without sacrificing quality, it is possible to have 2 -layer construction, see below.
The traditional design of the bench, on the contrary, is collapsible from the same wood as the carpentry shelf. This comes from the master craftsmen of the past, who transported their equipment from customer to customer on a cart. It is from the bed/bench that you should start developing your workbench, no worse, but simpler than traditional ones.
Bed: metal or wood?
Stationary wooden workbench has advantages over those on a steel frame not only in lower cost and labor intensity. Wood, firstly, is not plastic. Workbench on wooden base can be broken, but if the wood used is seasoned and impregnated, it will never bend. Secondly, wood perfectly dampens vibrations. The foundations of your buildings are not reinforced vibration-absorbing ones, like workshops in a factory? And the overall strength and stability of the home workbench frame will be fully ensured by commercial coniferous wood of ordinary quality.
Design wooden bed a workbench made of 120x40 boards is shown on the left in Fig. Permissible static load – 150 kgf; dynamic vertically downward for 1 s – 600 kgf. Corner posts (legs) are assembled on 6x70 self-tapping screws in a zigzag (snake) pattern with a distance from the edge of 30 mm and a pitch of 100-120 mm. Double-sided fastening; the snakes on both sides of the package are made in mirror image. Intermediate support beams are fastened with steel angles on self-tapping screws; the edge ones - with pairs of self-tapping screws at the tenons of the posts and, on the outside, with corners.
If timber 150x50 or (180...200)x60 is available, the design can be simplified, as shown in the center in Fig. Load bearing capacity will increase to 200/750 kgf. And from timber 150x150, 150x75 and (180...200)x60 you can build a frame capable of bearing 450 kgf in static conditions and 1200 in dynamics, on the right in Fig.
Note: Any of these beds is suitable for both carpentry and metalworking workbenches. Under the joinery, a box-shaped lid is placed on it (see below), and under the fitter, a tray from a 60x60x4 angle with welded 4-mm strips above the intermediate beams is placed. A wooden cushion is placed in the tray and covered with steel, also see below.
If there is no welding
All wood workbench, no need for welding work to make it, you can do it according to the following pattern. rice. The “trick” here is the tabletop, glued together from 75x50 lumber and fastened with ties. If the timber is oak, then permissible load– 400/1300 kgf. Corner posts – timber 150x150; the rest is timber 150x75.
Metal
It happens the other way around: metal more accessible than wood, and there is welding. Then the workbench table for a load of 100/300 kgf can be assembled according to the drawing on the left in Fig. Materials – corner 35x35x3 and 20x20x2. Boxes are made of galvanized steel. Disadvantage - it is impossible to make an opening at the bottom for the legs; the structure will lose its ability to bear dynamic loads.
For a load of 200/600, a more convenient metal workbench according to the diagram at the top right, made of corrugated pipe 50x50 (corner posts), 30x30 (other vertical parts) and a corner 30x30x3, is suitable. The plank cushion of both workbenches is laid only across (bottom right) from tongue-and-groove boards (120...150)x40.
Shelf – steel 2 mm. The shelf is attached to the pillow with 4x(30...35) self-tapping screws, a pair at each edge of each board, and along the outer boards - in increments of (60...70) mm. Only in this design will the workbench show the specified load-bearing capacity.
These workbenches are already universal: for carpentry, the lid is turned over with the wooden side up or adjusted as described below. A bench vise is mounted on a wooden pad, but is not secured with a clamp. A collet anchor for an M10-M14 bolt is driven into the vice pad from below, and a through hole is drilled in the cover for it. A 60x2 washer is placed under the bolt head. This solution is convenient because it is possible to use inexpensive non-rotating vices.
For carpentry
Lid carpentry workbench, unlike a metalwork one, it is tightly attached to the bench and is made box-shaped for overall rigidity. The best option fastenings for a non-dismountable workbench - steel angles and self-tapping screws. The underbench can also be a steel frame from those described above.
How a traditional carpentry workbench works is shown in pos. And rice; accessories to it on pos. B. Bench board (in in this case This is a separate device) is used to work with long lengths. The support in its groove is made from a wedged piece of board, see below. It is advisable to drill a longitudinal row of holes in the board and secure it into the sockets with bolts with conical heads. The traditional design of a carpentry bench is shown in pos. G, but – see above.
It is possible to reduce the cost of the carpentry workbench cover by making it 2-layer, pos. Q. Then high-quality hardwood boards will only be needed for the shelf. They lay it by laying the boards with “humps” of annual layers, alternately up and down, to avoid warping. The shelf flooring is first glued together with PVA or carpentry glue, tightly compressed with a clamp or wrapped with a cord; put on the pillow using the same glue. The lid skirt is assembled separately using glue and through tenons (inset in pos. B) and attached to the pillow-shelf package with self-tapping screws.
Carpentry vice
Solid wood carpenter's vices, front and chair, are now almost completely replaced by a vice with a metal screw clamp, pos. D; their device is shown in pos. E. Some comments are necessary here.
First, you need to place 2-3 steel washers under the head of the clamping screw, otherwise it will quickly eat through the cushion (wood 4x4x1 cm). Secondly, if the nut is not custom-made or purchased, then at least temporarily acquire a set of taps for the thread you are using. In this case, do not try to use a screw that is too thick for evenness and smoothness of the clamp; M12-M16 is quite enough.
The nut of a homemade clamping pair is welded onto a base with a diameter of 60 mm or, square, from 70x70 mm. It is not necessary to recess it into the clamp pad, this way there is less chance that the nut will break off when clamped. But welding will cause the thread to go ugly; you can’t get rid of it with a bolt. The thread of the welded nut will need to be passed with taps according to the complete pattern, as when cutting: first tap - second - third (if included in the kit).
Note: The nut welded to the base must be allowed to rest for 2 hours before passing the thread so that the residual deformations “settle down.”
Vise and joinery for mechanics
The vice on the bench is installed in the corner (see inset in the figure) so that as much of the dynamic loads as possible during metal processing fall vertically on the corner post. Location cross beams and intermediate vertical racks It is advisable to make a workbench with a stationary vice slightly asymmetrical, placing them at smaller intervals towards the corner with the vice. The vice is also installed starting from the corner:
- A collet anchor is driven into a wooden corner post under an installation bolt, and a tall nut or threaded bushing is welded into a metal one (attachment point 1 at the bottom left in the figure);
- If the fastening unit is welded, go through the threads with taps, as in homemade nut carpenter's vice, see above;
- Place the vice temporarily on 1 bolt and mark the holes for fastening points 2, 3 and 4;
- The vice is removed and drilled through holes 2, 3 and 4;
- Place a vice on bolts 1, 2 and 3;
- For fastening to bolt 4, place a jib U from wooden beam from 60x60 or professional pipes from 40x40. It is not necessary to secure the jib, but it must rest from the bottom against the upper frame (frame) of the bed, but not against the table top!
- Finally attach the vice to bolt 4.
Note: Stationary power tools are also secured in the same way, for example. emery.
Under the carpentry
A workbench can also be adapted for carpentry work if you drill 2-4 pairs of holes in the tabletop for fixing the carpentry stop (on the right and in the center in the figure). In this case, round bosses are screwed to the lower surface of the stop with self-tapping screws; Plastic bottle caps work well; they can withstand a tight fit many times.
Workbench for garage
It is impossible to make a workbench in a garage with an optimal width for the ergonomics of the workspace - the dimensions of a standard box of 4x7 m with a car parked in it do not allow it. The width has long been determined through trial and error. garage workbench 510 mm: it is quite convenient to turn between it and the hood, and it is more or less possible to work. A narrow workbench under a heavy load (for example, a motor removed for rebuilding) turns out to be unstable, so it is attached to the wall. Often - angular, this increases stability, but any wall-mounted workbench “resounds” stronger than a workbench-table of the same design
A diagram of the structure of one section of a garage workbench is shown in Fig. This design uses an ingenious method of additional vibration damping: cells of the lid frames and the bottom shelf of the edge farthest from the corner different sizes. The installation accuracy of the crossbars is +/– 1 cm. For the same purpose, the lid and bottom shelf are made of Chipboard thickness 32 mm and covered with linoleum instead of steel. Its durability is sufficient for garage work; can be easily replaced.
Fastening to walls - self-tapping screws from 8 mm or bolts from M8 with a pitch of 250-350 mm. Recess into a stone wall is 70-80 mm; in wooden 120-130 mm. Propylene dowels are placed under the self-tapping screws in the stone wall; for bolts - collet anchors.
More for the garage
Another version of the garage workbench is already wall-mounted, and the wall-mounted one is on the left in Fig. It can only be mounted on stone walls. Bench board folding 2-layer; each layer of plywood is 10-12 mm. Opening for the machine with a stepped inner edge. In this case, a “milling machine” means a mini-drilling machine with a movable rotary table and a workpiece clamp. The design is convenient in that the shavings fall directly onto the floor.
If your car is something like a Daewoo or Chery with a 3-cylinder engine, and the garage is very small, then you can put a folding mini workbench cabinet with a lifting tabletop in it, on the right in the figure; it will fit in the house for fine workmanship(electronics, precision mechanics). The tabletop is suspended on a piano hinge, the legs are on cardboard. To fold, the legs are tucked under the tabletop (it would be useful to tie them with a leg), and the tabletop is lowered.
Note: for a cramped garage with an ordinary city car, perhaps a folding workbench box would be optimal, see the video below.
Video: folding workbench box
Home station wagon
At home they are engaged in smaller, but painstaking technical creativity: soldering, model making, watchmaking, artistic sawing from plywood, etc. For small, delicate work, a universal workbench is suitable, drawings of which and its accessories are given in Fig. The durability of the working surface and its vibration absorption in this case are not as important as evenness, smoothness and some adhesion (“stickiness” of parts), so the tabletop is covered with linoleum. The bench vise for this workbench needs to be small, with a screw clamp fastening.
More about plywood
In general, it is undesirable to work with metal “roughly” on plywood, because... she calls back well. If the pillow is board mechanic's workbench After all, it is made of plywood, then to its underside you need to glue a frame (frame) also made of plywood on PVA, see fig. Then it is advisable to first cover the upper (working side) with linoleum without a lining, and then lay the steel on it.
The younger shift
Another case when making a workbench board from plywood is justified is a student workbench for a child. Pedagogical considerations play a role here: let him learn to feel the material and not beat him too much in vain, but work carefully. For the same purpose, masters of the past deliberately gave their students bad instruments.
Workbenches for the dacha
When a country house or etc. light wooden The building is still under construction, there’s no time for bench intricacies, you need at least something on which you can carry out simple carpentry work. For such a case a quick fix you can put together a carpentry workbench for a summer house from scrap materials, on the left in Fig. The design is remarkable in that it clearly and fully embodies the principle: we make good things with bad equipment.
For subsequent work on arranging the dacha, a mini-workbench will be useful, on the right in Fig. At minimum consumption material and extremely simple design, it is sufficient for ordinary carpentry work and is stable in all respects, because the middle of the bench board is supported by a pair of struts. If you put them on bolts, the workbench will be foldable and stand in the pantry from weekend to weekend. For disassembly, after releasing the struts, the spacer is removed along with them, and the legs are tucked under the board. Finally, for a dacha inhabited permanently or all summer, with a craftsman owner, by the way, you will need a more complex but fully functional folding workbench, see the video below.
A good workbench in the garage allows you to make different kinds metal and wood work in a short period of time. Various tools and small parts are stored here. In simple terms, it is a special table on which you can do turning and metalwork.
In addition to the tabletop, there may be multilayer structures shelves and hanging containers for storing nails, screws and nuts.
Making a universal workbench is quite simple. The main thing in this matter is to prepare a project and detailed drawings of the future product. During the creation process, it is necessary to observe the order of each action.
Self-manufacturing of such a structure will save a decent amount. Besides, individual project helps you make a design based on the parameters of your room.
Types of workbench
There are several types of workbench. Each of them has some characteristics. In turn, they are divided into:
Locksmith. It is intended for metal work. The tabletop of this product is made of a high-strength metal alloy. This is necessary for safety. While working on iron, sparks may be present.
In addition, the use lubricants may leave marks on wooden surface. The iron base does not require special care.
Carpentry. Its surface is made of solid wood. A carpenter's workbench is used for woodworking. These products do not have high strength and versatility, unlike metalwork.
The universal table has a metal and wooden tabletop in its design. The workbench drawing shows the carpentry structure working area.
What is included in the design of the workbench?
If the product is made independently, then it is important to think through every little detail. Additional shelves and spacious hanging containers will help you use this product efficiently. The standard model contains many drawers for storing large tools.
A homemade table can have both metal and wooden system storage An additional metal shield allows you to store small hanging tools here. Now the hacksaws and hammers will be located in one place.
How to make a workbench with your own hands?
We present to your attention detailed instructions how to make a workbench. Manufacturing carpenter's table takes place in several stages. First of all, you need to prepare all the tools and materials.
For this you will need:
- hacksaw;
- a screwdriver or a set of screwdrivers of different diameters;
- carpenter's square;
- level;
- bolts;
- nuts;
- self-tapping screws;
- detailed drawing of the product;
- wrench.
From the materials you need to prepare:
- bars for support. The size of each element should be 110 x 110 mm. During the selection process, you need to pay attention Special attention condition of the wood. There should be no cracks or knots here;
- plywood sheets 30 mm thick;
- boards for the frame.
When all the necessary items are prepared, you can proceed to the work process. It includes the following steps:
The initial step will be to construct a lower frame in which the tools and bench will be located. To do this, the boards are sawn off to the required level. Next, they are connected to each other using self-tapping screws. The end result should be a rectangular shape.
A spacer bar is installed in the middle. In the future it will reduce resistance finished product During the work process you will need a small wooden board.
The supporting legs of the table are fixed with bolts. To do this, through holes are made in the plane of the frame. For reliability, it is recommended to make 6 to 8 legs around the entire perimeter.
To give rigidity to the product, it is necessary to make a bottom shelf. At the bottom of each leg, 25 cm are marked. Then long ones are attached here wooden planks. In the future, a chipboard panel will be fixed on their surface. It will act as a base.
When the main part of the frame is completed, begin installing the top tabletop. You will need a hacksaw here. She removes excess parts of the board.
Protect the surface wooden table top hardboard will help. This is a durable material that is designed for the work area.
You can increase the storage system using an additional metal shield, which is attached to the back of the carpentry table. Through holes are made in the support boards. After this, the metal base is secured with bolts. The photo of the do-it-yourself workbench shows the sequence of each action.
Photos of DIY workbenches
A home handyman must have comfortable spot, this is a guarantee not only of convenience and speed of work, but also of safety. High-quality European-made workbenches cost as much as industrial equipment, while Chinese and home-made ones are not reliable. However, you can make a good workbench with your own hands, because, in essence, it is a table equipped with various fastenings, stops and tool storage.
The height of the workbench depends on the height of its owner; it should be comfortable to stand, without slouching, to perform basic operations. For average height this is usually 70-90 cm. Workbench configuration and necessary fastenings and the devices depend on what operations are most often performed on it, but it is worth providing several stops and a pair of screw vices or clamps (). You also need to take into account which hand the owner of the workbench uses.
Workbench diagram - first option
The width and length of the workbench depend on the area of the workshop; it is convenient if the length of the workbench is at least 2 meters and the width is 80-100 cm. It is convenient if drawers or cabinets are mounted under the workbench for storing tools and consumables.
When designing a workbench, you need to consider whether it will be permanently installed in the workshop or constantly assembled and disassembled. In the second case, it would be reasonable to lighten the structure due to a material of less thickness. In a collapsible workbench, you can make a tabletop that can be unscrewed, or you can also provide folding legs.
It is better to place the workbench near the window; additional local lighting is also required. Directly next to the workbench you need to provide several electrical outlets for equipment. All wires near the work area must be enclosed in a box or corrugated pipe.
Selection of materials
The optimal material for a workbench is planed timber, from which the frame frame and legs will be made. For legs, you can take it with a size of 100 * 70 mm, and for jumpers - 100 * 50 mm. The tabletop can be made from flat boards 5 cm thick. It can also be made from a solid piece, for example, an old blind door or laminated chipboard with enough durable coating. For a workbench, it is better to choose hard wood, preferably beech, oak or maple. Thicker bars and boards will make the workbench heavier and more stable, and will be more comfortable to work on.
Fasteners for making a workbench are selected taking into account whether it will be prefabricated or dismountable. Self-tapping screws, nails and nuts with bolts will come in handy.
Before building a workbench, you need to select a vice. It is convenient if there are 2 of them - on the right side and on the left in front. In the first, you can fix long boards, and in the second, you can clamp short parts. The most universal jaw width is 175 mm.
Scheme of the second version of the workbench
We are building a workbench. Base
The production of a workbench occurs in 2 stages: assembly of the base and installation. At each stage and during each operation, you need to control the size of the parts and the evenness of their installation using a level.
The base is a frame of beams fastened in such a way that the structure is as rigid as possible. To do this, a horizontal jumper is placed between the legs of the workbench, and a drawer is provided in the middle, along the length. The lintels and drawer are placed 40-50 cm from the floor, then shelves for storing tools can be installed on them. The beams for the base are combined using a tongue-and-groove connection, gluing it. In places where this is not possible, self-tapping screws are used. If the workbench is expected to be disassembled, then connect the parts support frame possible using metal corners. Usually, the grooves and tenons are first prepared according to the drawing, and then the entire structure is assembled at once, gluing the joints with wood glue and fixing them with clamps.
A good option for a stationary workbench is if one or more parts of the support frame can be screwed to the wall, so the structure will be even more reliable. Strength can be increased using diagonal jumpers or wedge-shaped inserts between the legs and the upper part of the frame from the same timber, which are fastened with self-tapping screws. The narrow ends of the upper part of the frame also need to be connected with a jumper.
Tabletop and useful accessories
If the tabletop is constructed from separate boards, then they need to be properly fitted to each other so that debris does not get into the cracks. The size of the tabletop should be a few centimeters larger than the base to make it convenient to work and clean. The boards are nailed or screwed to 3 bars located across the boards with reverse side countertops. In the base you need to provide grooves for these bars.
The board tabletop is carefully sanded several times and coated with a protective solution, preferably oil or drying oil, to avoid injury from chips during further work. The tabletop is screwed to the base using metal corners.
A vice is attached to the finished tabletop; a recess must be provided for it at the end of the tabletop so that the vertical plate forms one plane with it. WITH bottom side The workbench will also require a plywood pad. The jaws of the vice should be flush with the surface of the countertop. Applying a vice, mark the location for the holes and secure them with bolts and nuts (M12 is suitable). The holes for the bolt heads must be pre-milled so that they sink completely into them. The vice should not be located in the very corner, so as not to tear it off under heavy load.
In addition to the vice, it is necessary to provide stops on the workbench. You can secure the finished ones by drilling a hole in the tabletop required diameter, or make them yourself. You should not use bolts or round dowels instead of stops, since the bolts can damage the workpieces with their heads, and the dowels do not fix the parts well enough.
It’s easier to make rectangular stops, or pegs, which are adjustable in height to suit various details, and securely fix them. You need to make holes for them in the tabletop or build it up using blocks suitable thickness, screwed to its edge, and covered with a bar on the other side. The nests should be located from each other at a distance of half the travel of the vice so that any workpiece can be fixed.
The pegs themselves are cut out of hard wood; you can make them with a “spring” that is screwed to the base, or you can simply make them rectangular. The rectangular stops can be slightly expanded at the top, then they will be fixed in the sockets more reliably.
Building a carpentry workbench with your own hands is not an easy task, but then it workplace will be able to serve the owner for a long time, acquire useful parts and devices and adapt to the specific needs of each master.
Every craftsman needs a comfortable workplace to work with wood or for finishing manipulations. In order to carry out all the work as efficiently as possible, you can quickly build a high-quality and inexpensive workbench with your own hands to suit your needs.
Construction and purpose of a carpentry workbench
A workbench is a stable, massive work table designed for processing various products using hand or power tools. The larger the size of such a table, the heavier and larger the parts can be processed on it.
Typical workbench layout:
Having decided to make a workbench with your own hands, you need to study all possible table designs, their drawings, and only then make a choice.
Simple stationary workbench It is not difficult to make, but it will be “tied” to a specific place. It can be used for processing massive wooden blanks and heavy boards.
Mobile desktop has small dimensions (approximately 80x70 cm), weight about 30 kg and only a vice. It is intended for working with small products and for minor repairs.
Composite workbench connected with bolts, so it can be easily disassembled. However, it is quite difficult to do it yourself.
Making a workbench project
Worker carpenter's table should be made in such a size that it is convenient to work on it.
Height The table directly depends on the height of the owner, who should be comfortable standing to perform any operations. For an average height person, the workbench can be from 70-90 cm in height.
Lenght and width The size of the workbench depends on the area of the room in which it will be installed. A table with a width of 80-100 cm and a length of at least two meters is very convenient.
Required fixtures and table configuration should depend on which hand the master will work with and what operations he will perform on the workbench.
Set up a workbench It's best to be near a window, but you'll still need additional lighting. In addition, sockets must be provided near the workplace.
design collapsible table can be reduced due to the small thickness of the material. In such a workbench you can make folding legs or a twist-off tabletop.
DIY workbench. Blueprints. Video instruction
A stationary workbench can be installed not only indoors, but also in the yard own home or dachas.
Making the base
First of all, you should make the frame of their beams with your own hands and fasten it in such a way that the base is as rigid as possible.
Most often, first, according to the drawing , grooves are made, and only then the entire structure is assembled. In this case, all joints are glued and fixed with clamps. If the workbench is collapsible, then all parts of the frame can be connected using metal corners.
To stationary design was even more reliable, several parts of the support frame can be fixed to the wall. You can increase the stability of a carpentry workbench with wedge-shaped inserts or diagonal jumpers. They are attached with self-tapping screws between the top of the frame and the legs and are made of the same material as the table base.
Making a table top with various accessories
Workbench cover size should be a few centimeters larger than the base of the structure, then it will be convenient to work behind it.
- The boards are attached to three bars using metal corners, which are placed on the back side of the tabletop. Grooves must first be made for these bars.
- Then the boards are carefully adjusted to each other, sanded and coated with a protective solution. It is recommended to use drying oil or oil.
A recess is made at the end of the tabletop for vice. In this case, the vertical plate should form one plane with it. In addition, you will need a plywood pad, which will need to be placed at the bottom of the workbench.
The vice is applied to its location, and the location for the holes is marked. A vice is inserted into the finished recess and fastened with bolts and nuts to the table top so that its lips are located flush with the surface of the table top.
You also need to build stops on the carpentry workbench, which you can purchase or make yourself. It is not recommended to use round dowels or bolts as stops, since dowels do not secure parts well, and the bolt head can damage the workpiece.
It's quite easy to do pegs or rectangular stops. With their help, you can securely fix parts of any size. These stops are made from hard wood. You can simply make them rectangular, widen them at the top, or cut them out with a jigsaw and make them with a “spring.”
You can make holes in the tabletop for pegs or build it up with bars required thickness, screw them to the edge of the table and cover the other side with a bar. In order to fix any part, the sockets should be located from each other at a distance of half the travel of the vice.
The stationary workbench is ready, now you can work on it. However, if there is not enough space to install a desktop, then you can make a collapsible carpentry workbench.
Do-it-yourself collapsible workbench - arrangement
The procedure for making such a table is similar to that described above. Its main difference is that connecting parts requires use of bolted connections.
The advantage of such a workbench is not only that during its operation you can easily replace any parts. For example, every table becomes loose over time, and it is much easier to simply tighten the mounting bolts on it than to strengthen it with new screws and nails.
Of course, building a workbench with your own hands is not an easy task. But, having worked hard, you can end up with an excellent and comfortable workplace with various devices, at which work will bring joy.
If the main tools of a blacksmith are a hammer and an anvil, then for a carpenter there is nothing “more familiar” than his workbench. For people who work with wood, it can at the same time be a cutting platform and an assembly table, a stop and stand, a device for storing tools and even, if you want, a small carpentry machine, and sometimes a means of earning money. This article tells you how to make woodworking tables with your own hands. The instructions, photographs and drawings presented in it will help even a beginner to install this structure.
Osya member of FORUMHOUSE
First of all, after building a workshop, you need to make yourself a table. A table like a workbench, essentially. This is a table for work - fitting, assembling small things made of wood (stools, shelves, etc.). I'll call it an assembly table.
In fact, the second name for a workbench is “assembly”. But, as you already understand, its purpose goes far beyond assembly operations. Therefore, the design of a multifunctional workbench in a carpentry can be quite intricate (see drawing below), and its development (in the absence of experience) can be spent as much time as it takes to design the carpentry workshop itself.
General description of the carpentry workbench
At the heart of any carpentry workbench, regardless of the number of operations that are supposed to be performed with its help, there is always an ordinary wooden table. It is on it that the master will do carpentry, drill parts, process surfaces, assemble wooden trinkets into one complex design and surprise others with your skills.
A good solid table is the basis. And everything else - vices, clamps, boxes with tools and fasteners - all these are constant attributes of the most useful carpentry workshop.
Workbench project
To make a carpentry workbench with your own hands, you must first understand its parameters that are optimal for you.
The first and most important thing you should pay attention to when developing a project for a future workbench is its height. After all, you will have to work for him for a long time. And you can get tired standing at a workbench that is too high or too low in no time.
The dimensions of the workbench for work are chosen in such a way that you can work while standing at full height and without slouching. For a person of average height, the height of the table should be within 70...90 cm. But it is better to focus on the features of your own anatomy. It is optimal if the upper cut of the legs is at the level of your lowered arms. When a few centimeters are added to this height (the thickness of the workbench lid), you will understand that working while standing at such a table is a pleasure.
The optimal height of a carpentry table for standing work for a person of average height is 70-90 cm.
The workbench cover, as well as work surface, it is better to make it from solid wood or plywood. There are people who use for these purposes particle board materials, light chipboard sheets, etc. We strongly do not recommend that you follow their example. This is a bad design - after all, the loads on the surface of the structure can be quite noticeable, and particle board under such conditions it will quickly fail.
Osya member of FORUMHOUSE
5 years ago I received 2 sheets of plywood as a gift from a neighbor. It was decided to use it in the construction of a workbench. The size of the workbench was determined immediately - it was a pity to cut such a sheet. Experience has shown that there are no extra centimeters at the table. The height was determined by the height of the palms from the floor and amounted to 850 mm.
Ideally, homemade workbench must have a special tray on the lid for storing tools and wood blanks involved in the work, as well as special holes (sockets) for wedges and combs. Using wedges and (or) combs, parts and workpieces will be secured to the table surface. It is on the cover that auxiliary clamps (vises) should be mounted to fix the processed lumber.
The dimensions of the workbench may vary depending on the size of your workshop. But, as practice shows, the optimal dimensions of the lid are 700 mm wide and 2000 mm long.
The supports (legs) of the workbench can be made from wooden beams 120*120 mm, no more. This will be quite enough to ensure that the structure is stable and does not become loose under the influence of brute physical force.
Workbench installation
As practice shows, making a workbench is not difficult. Installing a workbench is no different from assembling an ordinary one wooden table. Vertical supports are fastened together using vertical boards and self-tapping screws. The working surface should also be secured to the supports using self-tapping screws.
When assembling a workbench, you should avoid using nails to connect parts. After all, this can subsequently lead to rapid loosening of the workbench and even distortion of its supporting frame.
In order to save space in the carpentry workshop, some craftsmen make a homemade workbench folding. It is mounted on the wall. This type of installation means that carpentry work will only be carried out when necessary.
CartmanSr FORUMHOUSE member
In the past, in cramped conditions, I had a bench board - laminated board MDF 24 mm thick, with dimensions 1200x2200. It had minor modifications, such as: holes and grooves for fastening hand router and circulars, a flush-mounted metal frame with threaded holes for fastening rulers and mustache nuts at the bottom located at the fastening points hand plane And drilling machine from a drill with a rocker arm. The tabletop was attached to the wall on three hinges. During non-working hours, it was raised vertically and fixed to the wall. Under the board, also on hinges, are two triangles from the same board. She laid herself on them while working.
This design is an excellent way out of a situation in which inner space workshop is very limited. But such a carpentry table does not withstand intense loads well, and it can only be made independently in exceptional cases.
After you have mounted the frame and working surface of the product, a simple carpentry table can be considered ready. But in order for it to turn into a full-fledged workbench and begin carpentry work, its functionality needs to be slightly expanded by adding specialized equipment to the design.
Taking into account the special specifics of the activity, the carpenter’s workbench must be equipped with appropriate equipment. And if necessary tools always at hand, this is an excellent indicator. And they will help you correctly arrange devices, fastening materials and power tools. structural elements the workbench itself.
Rear and front clamps
Rear and side (front) screw clamps are those elements without which no workbench simply can fulfill its main purpose. Therefore, this part of the structure should be built first.
The rear clamp is designed to hold lumber while planing. As shown in the diagram, its vice jaws move along the front edge of the workbench, allowing you to lead screws securely fasten the workpiece.
The side screw clamp (which, due to its special location, is called the front clamp by many) has the same purpose as the rear clamp. And these elements differ from each other only in their location. Here are the drawings of a carpentry table for making it yourself. FORUMHOUSE member
The fact of the matter is that in the design of a workbench, a lower shelf is absolutely necessary (especially on a mobile workbench). We use a lot of tools and have nowhere to put them outside while working. And it’s also inconvenient in the workshop - climbing back and forth on cabinets and shelves. Fold the same tool 10 times per hour...
The underbench can be adapted for storing power tools. For greater convenience, you can install cabinets and shelves here for small parts, fixtures and hand tools.
Having made a workbench that has all the listed elements, you can begin your carpentry activities. In progress further work you may need additional accessories. But each master will be able to guess for himself what options to use and what elements to add.
About the one from which you can later craft various products on your carpentry workbench, you can learn from our previous article. Acquainted with practical ideas concerning, you can in the appropriate section of our forum. Any FORUMHOUSE visitor can become familiar with it by visiting a special topic created for discussion.