Traditionally, the floor is leveled with cement-sand screed, but it is difficult to work with, and getting a perfectly flat surface is even more difficult. You can make your work easier by using additives that increase the plasticity of the solution, allowing you to achieve a smooth surface. This technology is called liquid, poured or self-leveling floors, since the solution turns out to be really liquid and is precisely poured. You can select additives yourself, but it is time-consuming and difficult. After all, not only fluidity is important, but also the ability to level, hardening speed and other characteristics. Therefore, a more common way is to use ready-made mixtures, which are selected according to characteristics for specific tasks. With such mixtures you can make a self-leveling floor with your own hands. Not to say that there was an excellent result with self-production simple to achieve, but possible.
One of the varieties of poured floors is polymer, and they can be plain, or they can contain an image. These are so-called 3D floors. All of them are applied using the same technology, with their own characteristics. One caveat - polymer floors (and three dee) require an ideal base. On a concrete slab it can be done using bulk technology. Therefore, it is imperative to study it.
Technology and sequence of actions
If you start looking for what mixture to buy to make a self-leveling floor with your own hands, you will be confused: there is different compositions with different characteristics. All of them are used in this technology, but for various needs and situations. There are two large groups:
Not so much? But that's not all. In each of these groups there are quick-hardening compositions. On the one hand, this is good: repairs will take less time. On the other hand, if you lack experience (and where can you get it if you are making a poured floor with your own hands for the first time), the speed of hardening can result in the fact that while you stir all the lumps when the composition is congested, it will begin to set and there is no time to level it. There have been cases. For example, we were planning to fill a room of 16 square meters, and mixed two bags of a quick-hardening composition in a large tub. The time from getting into the water to setting is 25 minutes. All lumps were stirred for 15 minutes. The solution was poured onto the floor, but it hardly flowed anymore. We tried to level it, but it almost didn’t work. Then they quickly loaded everything into bags and took it to the trash heap. The conclusion is simple: to avoid such a situation, do not take quick-hardening compounds for your first experiment.
One more nuance. The compositions must be selected in accordance with the operating conditions: for interior or exterior work, if the room is periodically left without heating, frost resistance is needed. For laying heated floors there is also special compounds— the list of characteristics should indicate compatibility with heating.
Now about what self-leveling floors are made of. The composition may be based on cement or gypsum; in rare cases, both components are used, but there are special additives that neutralize the discrepancy (Starateli brand). When purchasing leveling agents and finishing compounds from different companies, pay attention to what they are based on. The fact is that gypsum and cement conflict with each other. They cannot be stacked one on top of the other. If the leveling agent is cement-based, then the finishing composition should also be made of cement. The same rule applies to plaster.
What you need to know
So, the main points and features of the self-leveling floor technology:
If the floor is leveled for laying tiles, laying a leveler is often sufficient. Not big differences up to 4-5 mm are leveled with a layer of tile adhesive. In general, look at the price: what will work out cheaper: pour a layer of liquid flooring or increase the consumption of tile adhesive. Both options are equivalent in terms of performance, so choose the less expensive one. Under all other coverings - laminate, parquet board, package, linoleum, cork, carpet, etc. — a difference of no more than 2 mm per 1 meter is required. If there is no such result after the leveler, you will have to add another finishing layer.
What do you need
In addition to bags of mixture, you will need some tools and equipment:
Work procedure: making a self-leveling floor with your own hands
The first stage is preparing the base. Everything that can be torn off, beaten off, cleaned off is removed. The cracks are expanded, if they are too large, they are sealed tile adhesive or a dry mixture for filling the floor, diluted with PVA glue. Small ones - up to 3 mm deep - are left without sealing, just cleaned well. Having finished cleaning, they clean everything well and collect dust with a vacuum cleaner.
The second stage is primer. It is better to take a primer from the same company as the liquid floor - a guarantee of compatibility. If you bought another one, check them for compatibility: look in the instructions with what compositions can be used - gypsum or cement based. It is necessary to prime thoroughly, completely saturating the entire base. It is faster to work with a roller on a long stick, but you can also use a brush or even a wide spatula. For loose materials, a single primer is not enough, and after the first has dried, a second, and maybe a third, is applied.
General sequence of work when pouring a floor. Using this technology you make self-leveling floors yourself
Stage three - installation of beacons. Lighthouses are displayed in different ways. First way: how to use metal profiles with a regular screed. You can leave them in the floor, or you can take them out after the solution has set (primary hardening) and fill the holes with the same mixture. Second way : with a certain step, screw the screws into the floor, aligning the caps according to the level. This method is acceptable if you level the solution according to the rule. Then, when pouring, focus on the caps. Third way: make “rails” from a thick, quick-setting floor mortar. Basically, for this purpose they use a “U”-shaped profile for drywall, which is lubricated from the inside with grease. It is laid, back up, on level screws. Place the solution inside with a spatula, filling it to the very top. The trick here is to make sure there are no voids left. There is a modification of this method: along the laid screws, lay a roller of mortar into which to press the lubricated profile. The squeezed out and excess solution is collected; if it does not have time to set, you can try to use it again. Method four: use a laser plane builder.
Stage four - filling. You will have to work quickly: after 40 minutes, most compounds lose their elasticity. Therefore, it is more convenient to work with at least one assistant and two containers for filling. It is better to first measure out the required amount of water (pour into some containers, the number of which is equal to the number of batches), open the bags with the mixture, and arrange everything in rows. Install a threshold near the door so that the liquid floor does not spill out and you can make it even.
One person mixes the composition - pours in water, pours out the composition and stirs it with an electric drill and stirrer, the second person pours it and levels it out. The one who levels must put a special sole on thin metal rods on the shoes. If you don’t want to buy it, you can make it yourself (example in the photo).
Pour the composition onto the floor in a “snake” pattern. Although it spreads, it doesn’t spread so well that you don’t need to do anything at all. You will have to level, especially if you are laying the starting, coarse leveler in a decent layer. Depending on the chosen method of installing the beacons, you “drive” the solution either with a long mounting rail - as a rule, or with a wide spatula with teeth (if you use a plane builder, it is more convenient for them to work). To avoid crawling with it on your lap, it can be attached to a long handle. Some people prefer to disperse the solution with a toothed roller. With a sufficient layer thickness (from 5 mm) it does a good job; for thinner ones you need either a spatula or a rule. You have to work quickly - you need to fill the entire room before final hardening, and the next portion of the solution is being prepared.
As soon as the next portion of the solution is ready, it is poured out, continuing to level new square, mixing the two zones at the edges. This way the entire surface is filled.
Stage five - waiting and checking the result. After pouring, close the doors - so that there are no drafts - and wait the required time. It's very different. Mixtures with cement take longer to set, with plaster - faster, but usually you can walk on the surface after 12-24 hours.
When the specified period has passed, take the two-meter rule and check the result. When using a coarse leveler, the difference can be 2-5 mm, or can be measured in centimeters. Very much depends on skill. If this is the first time you have made a self-leveling floor yourself, and the differences were less than 10 mm, we can congratulate you on your success. This is a good result, and the existing unevenness will be smoothed out by the finishing leveler. It has a finer grain and is better distributed.
If you want a good result, find a good self-leveling mixture. Of course, it will need to be distributed over the surface, but it will level itself. The only disadvantage of this type of composition is their price. In general, it has been noted that the less experience, the more expensive the composition should be used to guarantee a smooth floor.
All the nuances and features of the construction of poured floors are well described in the video. There is also a demonstration of how to level the mixture and several brands that are recommended to be used.
Manufacturers of compositions for self-leveling floors
There are many companies on the market, both foreign and domestic. Some compositions are praised by everyone, while others have conflicting reviews. Here you need to understand that those who often deal with this work can, using a composition that is not very good in terms of characteristics, get an excellent result. It’s more difficult for beginners: they don’t know how it should be, so they can’t correct it in time if something goes wrong. Therefore, it is unlikely that you will be able to save money: in order to get a good result, you will have to buy a composition for self-leveling floors with very good characteristics and reviews. And these are expensive brands.
Here is a list of manufacturers and compositions, with a brief description:
- Bolars is inexpensive, but difficult to work with.
- ‘Prospectors – reviews vary.
- Pyramid - little experience.
- CERESIT CN78 - easy to work with, the surface is smooth, but expensive.
- IVSIL TIE-ROD-II is a self-leveling mixture based on gypsum; other compositions level a little worse.
- BROZEX NP-42 - the result is not bad, spreading is normal.
- Horizon Universal - difficult to work with.
- Vetonit Vaateri Plus is a self-leveling agent with good characteristics, it is easy to work, the surface is smooth, and it is expensive.
- Forbo 976 is a self-leveling mixture with good performance.
- Foundation T-45 - spreads and levels well, but is not suitable for thick layers (more than 10 mm).
- Plitonit (PLITONIT) - a composition for a thin layer has very good reviews.
- Kreps-RV and SL - according to reviews - normal characteristics at an affordable price.
These are, naturally, not all manufacturers, but those with which you can make a floor, and do not suffer (according to reviews of those who worked with them) ...
Polymer and 3D self-leveling floors
The technology for installing polymer floors is similar to installing self-leveling ones. There is also a liquid, relatively fluid composition that needs to be distributed over the surface. The difference is in materials. These are mainly polymers. They differ according to the type of binder component:
- polyurethane;
- epoxy;
- methyl methacrylate.
In terms of coating thickness, they can be very thin - this is dust removal coating and painting, or they can have a thickness of 1.5-4.5 mm, sometimes more. The compositions are mainly two-component - before application they are mixed in strictly measured proportions. Then, like self-leveling floors based on cement or gypsum, they are poured onto a flat primed surface (their own primer) and leveled.
Polymer floors can have a glossy or matte surface, or they can have a rough surface. In apartments and private houses (for bathrooms, kitchens, corridors) they mainly use a gloss or matte surface, in swimming pools or on open terraces - a rough surface, so that it is non-slip even when wet.
Volumetric floors with a pattern, which are also called 3D (three de) floors, are special case polymer floor. The design is applied to a banner or special fabric. The main thing is careful elaboration of the design and high quality of printing. This pattern is glued onto the prepared base, then a layer of transparent polymer is poured on top. After drying, another layer of abrasion-resistant varnish is applied. The result is those beautiful pictures on the floor that many people like so much.
The basis for the quality of a 3D floor is an ideal base and high-quality pattern
Self-leveling floor technology with a pattern
Step by step it looks like this:
The entire technology for installing a 3D floor is demonstrated in a video clip. After viewing, all ambiguities should disappear completely.
Those who want to make a volumetric self-leveling floor with their own hands (with a 3D effect) often have questions about where to buy materials. if we are talking about photo printing, then in an advertising agency engaged in banner advertising or in a printing house that has equipment for large-format printing on fabric.
If we are talking about polymer compounds, then the number of manufacturing companies is in the dozens. There are both domestic and imported. They, as a rule, produce the entire line - from primers to coatings with different characteristics. There are a lot of possibilities for tinting. Choose any one from the catalog. This is if you plan to fill a plain floor. If you decide to make a floor with a pattern, in addition to the primer you will need one composition for the base (to match the background of the photo), as well as a transparent one. They can also sell all sorts of “chips” to create a shimmering, for example, floor, etc.
As mentioned, there are many manufacturers. Here are some, with a description of the materials they produce (which they sell):
- TeoKhim enterprise produces polymer floors under the Elakor brand (all three types of polymers)
- Etal and Etal UV - epoxides
- Remmers Epoxy (epoxies), Remmers PUR Aqua (polyurethane)
- Self-leveling polyurethane coating KT floor Enamel PU 01 - one-component (toxic, use a respirator)
- Polyepoflex - epoxy self-leveling floors
- Ultraflor - polyurethanes
- Poly-Flor - all three polymers (epoxy, polyurethane, methyl methacrylate)
- Epolast - two-component epoxy compounds
- Sikafloor-2530W - epoxy self-leveling floor
Actually, this is all technology. You see that it is not easy to make a self-leveling floor with your own hands, but it is possible. The main task is to qualitatively prepare the bases, as well as to meet the specified time before the compositions harden.
Another video on how to make plain polymer floors.
IN last years The demand for polymer floors has increased several times. This popularity of the material is due to the good technical and decorative properties of the coating. Installing polymer floors with your own hands is quite simple if you strictly follow the recommendations of experienced specialists, which are presented below.
General information about polymer mixtures
The self-leveling coating is a polymer composition that is used as a finishing finish for the rough base. It can be laid on mineral, wood, ceramic and even metal surfaces. For residential premises, polyurethane mixtures are most often used, since they have good aesthetic characteristics, as well as excellent thermal insulation.
All types of finishing filling solutions are divided into two large categories:
- Leveling – applied and leveled manually using a spatula and a needle roller;
- Self-leveling– solutions that are liquid in consistency and spread over the coating with virtually no auxiliary tools.
The thickness of the laid “liquid” coating can vary from 1 to 9 mm. According to many experienced craftsmen, a layer of 1.5-3 mm will be optimal for residential premises.
Preparatory stage
How to make a self-leveling polymer coating on the floor yourself? Before you begin directly pouring the polyurethane solution, you need to prepare a rough base. The main requirement for coatings for self-leveling floor installation is evenness. To check the “horizontalness”, use a fairly long ruler and a building level. If the height difference per m2 exceeds 3-4 mm, you will have to think about additional leveling of the base.
How to prepare the base? Depending on the type of rough covering, there are several methods of preparing the floor, namely:
- For concrete pavements
- Humidity cement screed should not exceed 4%;
- Using a Schmidt hammer and a Dean apparatus, you need to find out the tear strength of the base - at least 1.5-2 MPa and the compressive strength of the material - at least 20-23 MPa;
- When installing a new screed, it is desirable that its “age” be at least 27-30 days;
- When repairing an old floor, you need to free the base from paint, previous finishing coat, glue and stains;
- After this, potholes and chips in the screed are repaired, bumps and cracks are eliminated;
- Minor irregularities can be eliminated with a grinder, and cracks can be eliminated with an adhesive solution;
- Then using building level it is necessary to check the “horizontalness” of the concrete screed again.
- For wooden coverings
- IN in this case humidity of wooden floors, joists and plywood is allowed at 10%;
- The subfloor is cleaned of old coating and baseboards, varnish, paint and oil stains;
- For high-quality cleaning, it is advisable to use a metal scraper, a grinder and a spatula;
- Any cracks on the surface are cleaned sandpaper, after which they putty;
- If possible, the floor is leveled using cement screed or plywood sheets of various thicknesses.
- For ceramic coatings
- You can install polymer self-leveling floors with your own hands on ceramic tiles, but, first of all, you need to check the coating for the presence of tearing elements;
- If a dull sound is heard while tapping the tiles, the torn tile must be removed and treated with glue and re-attached to the covering;
- The ceramics are degreased and treated with a primer, after which all tile joints are puttied.
Preparation of a polymer solution
One of the most important stages of work is preparation. bulk mixture. The “spreadability” of the solution during the pouring process will depend on the quality of the mix and consistency. To properly prepare the mixture, it is advisable to rely not on the recommendations of “experienced” people, but on the instructions provided by the manufacturer on the packaging.
How to make a high-quality solution?
- Water is poured into the prepared container according to the instructions;
- Then the dry polymer mixture is added;
- Knead the liquid mass for at least 10 minutes using construction mixer or a drill with a butterfly attachment;
- The prepared solution should be free of any lumps or inhomogeneities.
How to check if the mixture was prepared correctly? For those who are encountering the process of pouring a polymer floor for the first time, a “spreadability” test will be useful. It will allow you to determine whether you did the kneading correctly or not:
- Cut from small plastic cover bottom;
- Place it on the floor and pour the polymer composition inside;
- Carefully lift the lid;
- If the mixture spreads evenly and forms something like a glass surface, you have prepared the solution correctly.
How much mixture will you need?
One of the main issues when installing a self-leveling floor is calculation. required quantity solution. On average, processing a m2 of well-leveled base will require no more than 500-600 g of mixture. In this case, the thickness of the “liquid” layer will be approximately 1 mm.
To more accurately determine the required amount of material, you can use the following expression: y + (y1-y2)/2 = x, where:
- x – coating thickness;
- y1 – distance from the highest marking point to the base;
- y2 – distance from the lowest marking point to the base;
- y – permissible thickness polymer mixture indicated on the packaging.
Floor markings and wall coverings
How to make a polymer floor with your own hands? Before pouring the solution, it is necessary to mark the base. This is done in order to install pendulums that control the “horizontalness” of the applied mixture. In addition, even if self-leveling compounds are used, they will still have to be directed to the corners of the room.
How are markings made?
- Pendulums are installed on the surface of the subfloor at a distance of approximately 1 m from each other;
- When installing the pendulum near a wall, minimum distance should be at least 10-15 cm.
So that during operation finishing coat not cracked, it is advisable to glue damper tape around the perimeter of the entire room. Even in the case of linear expansion, polymer materials will not “press” against the wall, which will not lead to their deformation. The width of the tape should vary from 7 to 10 cm.
Application of polymer solution
About a day after priming the subfloor, the polyurethane solution is poured. How to fill?
- The finished solution is poured onto the coating from a bucket to low altitude from the floor;
- To level the mixture, use a fairly wide spatula, and the thickness of the layer is adjusted using a squeegee;
- The next operation of pouring the solution is done close to the treated area to result in a seamless monolithic coating;
- The remaining amount of solution is poured in the same way;
- To prevent air bubbles from remaining in the coating, it is rolled with a needle roller;
- At the final stage, experts recommend covering the floor with polyethylene to avoid uneven drying of the solution and its cracking.
The process of applying the polyurethane composition to the prepared base is shown in more detail in the video material. To protect the coating from mechanical stress, an additional layer of varnish is applied over the solution.
Review of manufacturers
For high-quality installation of polymer floors, professionals recommend using building mixtures only from trusted manufacturers. The best of them include:
- Litokol is an Italian company that produces dry polymer mixtures of high strength and wear resistance. They contain modifying substances that improve the physical and mechanical properties of the coating;
- Ivsi is one of the best manufacturers“liquid” floors add fractional sand and mineral components to the mixture, due to which the consumption of the solution is significantly reduced;
- Bergauf is a company specializing in the production of coatings with improved adhesion properties (more than 1.2 MPa). Acrylic and polymer additives included in the raw material improve the spreadability of the solution over the coating. Sufficiently liquid compositions penetrate into the smallest pores on the base and create a perfectly smooth polymer coating.
Polymer self-leveling floor is a finishing floor covering consisting of polymer materials. In other words, it is a polymer seamless membrane that is applied to the screed or cleaned concrete slab. This polymer self-leveling floor has increased wear resistance and at the same time protects concrete well from destruction. This flooring is a popular new product in modern construction, which has already earned considerable authority.
Self-leveling floor - perfect replacement usual parquet, tiles, linoleum or laminate
The color palette of self-leveling self-leveling floors can be completely varied. In catalogs you will find 10 - 15 standard colors that a polymer self-leveling floor may have, but in reality you can get exactly the color that you need. This is achieved by simply adding various organic dyes to the building mixture.
Application of self-leveling floor
- in apartments, residential buildings
- V production premises
- in public and commercial establishments (parking lots, shopping centers, clubs, offices, restaurants, etc.)
- in rooms with food industry
- for sports facilities, stadiums
Depending on the scope and conditions of use, specialized polymer coatings are used
Self-leveling floors are made from high-quality building materials, which are extremely convenient and easy to prepare and arrange
We are ready to produce three types of self-leveling floors for you:
- glossy (creates the feeling of water on the surface)
- semi-matte (slightly duller than glossy)
- matte (virtually non-reflective)
Self-leveling floor installation options:
Type of self-leveling floor No. 3 is an original designer self-leveling floor, has a total coating thickness of 3 mm and includes the following types components:
- First component: Europol primer is applied to the prepared base, followed by the addition of dry quartz sand (0.3 - 0.8 mm fraction).
- The second layer is the base base (Evropoll EP-Base).
- The third layer is decorative. This layer can be filled with various decorative elements, fabrics with any images, self-adhesive vinyl films.
- The fourth layer is the finishing element (Europoll NEW Finish).
Type of self-leveling floor No. 5 is a designer polymer self-leveling floor with a total coating thickness of three millimeters and includes the following components:
- First component: prepared concrete base Europol primer is applied followed by sanding with quartz sand (0.3 - 0.8 mm).
- The second layer is the fundamental base element (Evropoll EP-Base).
- The third layer is designer (Evropoll Ral-Base).
Floor type No. 8 is a stone carpet (smoothed pebble/compacted), has a coating thickness of 6-8 mm, includes the following types of components:
- First layer: Evropoll primer is applied to the prepared base, followed by the addition of dry quartz sand (0.3 - 0.8 mm fraction).
- The second layer is the fundamental base (Evropoll EP-Base).
- The third layer is sealing (Evropoll NEW Finish).
- The fourth component is the finishing one (Europoll NEW Finish).
Polyurethane or epoxy floors?
To figure out what kind of coating you need, you need to compare their positive and negative characteristics.
Epoxy self-leveling floor contains at its core epoxy resins. It is characterized by high strength, rigidity, hardness and has the following features:
Polyurethane self-leveling floor It is distinguished by elasticity, flexibility and shock resistance. Has the following features:
- resistant to constant mechanical loads
- has increased wear resistance
- not afraid ultraviolet rays(does not lose its color, does not fade)
- is manufactured exclusively in a two-component composition, which, after mixing, begins to quickly harden (this dictates the accuracy and efficiency of work)
- applied to the surface only at positive temperatures (at least + 5 degrees)
- does not emit odor when applied
- as a minus - it penetrates well into the pores of the concrete surface
- endowed with high tensile strength
- resistant to prolonged vibrations and mechanical stress
- when directly exposed to ultraviolet light, a slight yellowish tint may form on the surface
- can be one-component or two-component
- the depth of impregnation on concrete is from two mm
- hardens slowly (no need for rapid application to the surface)
- When applying it is necessary to use protective respirators, as harmful fumes are released
- the floor is applied at a positive temperature
Features of polymer self-leveling floor
- High wear resistance to abrasion, that is, such a floor is not susceptible to the effects of various grains of sand and dust
- Elasticity of the coating, allowing the floor to withstand significant temperature fluctuations
- Resistant to vibration and possible shocks. Self-leveling floors will cope perfectly with all physical loads and will not lose their original decorative properties.
- Durability and reliability. If you choose the right type of self-leveling coating and install it according to all the rules, the floor can last more than 20 years
- Seamless flooring - provides hollow protection and moisture resistance to the concrete base
- Resistant to caustic chemicals
- Hygiene (does not contribute to the development of pathogenic microflora)
- Environmentally friendly (does not emit harmful pollutants into the air) chemical compounds)
- Easy to clean, suitable for machine cleaning using active cleaning agents
- Attractive appearance, variety of colors and aesthetics (thanks to the use of decorative materials)
- Fire safety (in case of a possible fire in the room, the floor has moderate toxicity and low flammability)
- The floor ensures no sparks, which allows it to be installed where work with explosive substances is carried out
- Maintainability - allows you to completely or partially restore the coating
- Quick and easy to install (work may take 1 - 4 days)
- Provides a perfectly flat surface
Self-leveling floor formation technology
1) Preparatory stage- leveling and preparing the base
Any self-leveling floor requires a perfectly flat concrete floor surface. Horizontal deviations should not exceed 2 mm. If possible, the base should be made of durable concrete(minimum M200) or sand concrete
The concrete base must be completely dry and must not have any contamination on the surface (various fats, oil stains, any previously applied old coatings, etc.). All contaminants are removed by milling and grinding
If leveling the surface is not effective, then a new screed must be made.
2) Priming the concrete base and sanding with quartz sand
The finished soil is poured over the surface of the base and evenly distributed with a roller. If the concrete base does not absorb soil uniformly, then after the first layer highly absorbent areas are additionally primed. After the first layer of primer has polymerized, a second protective layer is applied, at the time of application of which dry quartz sand (fractions 0.3 - 0.6 mm) is evenly applied on top.
3) Preparation, application of the finishing layer
To make a self-leveling self-leveling floor, a specialized dry mixture or two dry components are diluted in a certain amount cold water(if there are two components, then first dilute the first one, and then gradually begin to pour in the second one). The entire composition is continuously stirred with an electric mixer for two to three minutes (direct and reverse rotation is used). As a result, a homogeneous fluid mass without lumps should be formed, which must stand quietly for two to three minutes so that the air entrained by mixing can escape. After this, the mixture is evenly distributed over the surface and wait until it hardens completely.
General thickness flooring should vary from 3 to 8 mm depending on the type of self-leveling floor chosen
The final stage, but not mandatory, may be the application of a protective polyurethane varnish, which can emphasize the surface or make it matte, removing light reflections
Distinctive properties of decorative self-leveling flooring
Installation of a decorative self-leveling floor is carried out with the help of a master, designer and decorative artist. Embodiment design idea is a fundamental property in this type of coating. The floor should fit perfectly into the interior of the room. It may contain various special effects. The thickness of the coating in this case can reach several centimeters.
Decoration options and ways to change the shade of the self-leveling floor:
Adding chips
The types of self-leveling polymer floors, their advantages and areas of application are described in.
Now it makes sense to learn about the technology of filling them, especially since it is quite unique and has many important nuances.
In addition, readers will probably be interested in reading reviews of similar floor coverings from people who have already experienced their daily use, as well as getting an idea of the approximate price level for such materials.
Pouring polymer floors involves several characteristic stages of work, carried out in a strictly defined sequence, in compliance with the technological requirements established by the system manufacturer.
It is clear that different types coatings there can be significant differences in the nuances of preparing the mixture and the timing of its use, the time intervals for drying each layer, the use of special additives, fillers or coloring pigments.
However, the approximate sequence of actions is the same for all types of self-leveling polymer floors.
As an example, we will consider the technology of pouring a two-component coating on epoxy based The Elakor-ED system, which is widely used in industrial and private construction, includes all the necessary components for all stages, and has earned the most positive feedback from consumers.
Materials and tools for work
The amount of material is indicated based on filling 10 square meters. meters of floor with a thickness of 2.5 mm (this is the minimum acceptable layer for this system). So, high-quality pouring of a polymer epoxy floor will require:
- Two-component primer “Elakor-ED 2K/100” - 3 kg.
- Self-leveling floor "Elakor-ED" - 25 kg (7 kg for the base layer, and 18 for the main layer).
- Purified quartz sand, fraction 0.3 – 0.6 mm – 23-25 kg.
- Finishing polyurethane varnish "Elakor-PU - Lux" - 1.2 - 1.5 kg.
The necessary tools are prepared in advance: 
- Spatulas of different widths, from 200 to 600 mm.
- Sintepon rollers with a pile of 10-15 mm.
- Needle roller.
- Squeegee with adjustable gap.
- Drill with attachment for mixing construction mixtures. The drill must have speed control and reverse.
- If a large area is covered, you will need attachments for work shoes - paint shoes.
- Hard synthetic broom, powerful vacuum cleaner(preferably industrial).
- Containers for mixing the component solution.
- Hand and face skin protection must be used.
Preparing the base
The pouring work begins with preparing the base. Polymer floors can be poured onto a concrete screed, wooden surface, old tile, but any type of surface requires careful inspection and appropriate preparation.
One of the most important requirements– horizontal surface. Epoxy flooring has self-leveling properties. However, large level differences will lead to serious overspending. expensive material and a general increase in the cost of coverage.
A height difference of up to 1 mm per linear meter is considered acceptable. If it is larger, it makes sense to first eliminate it with a leveling screed.
- The concrete floor should not have unfixed cracks, deep potholes, or crumbling areas.
Absorbed oil or other stains are unacceptable - they are hollowed out to clean concrete, followed by filling of potholes.
For repair work use polymer putties, which can be supplemented with quartz sand.
The residual moisture content of the cement base should not exceed 4%. If work is carried out according to fresh concrete, the minimum period of its exposure should be at least 4 weeks.
- When covering wooden floor pay Special attention on the stability of the base - it should not “play”.
The tree must be cleaned of dirt, old paint, sanded and polished. Relative humidity wood is allowed up to 10%.
- When laying on tiles, be sure to tap all the tiles to identify those that are loose.
They should be removed from the general masonry, and the resulting recesses should be sealed with putty.
Immediately before applying the primary primer layer (no more than 2 hours), the entire floor surface must be once again cleaned of debris and dust with a powerful vacuum cleaner.
Conditions for floor pouring work
The pouring technology requires compliance certain conditions for work:
- The air temperature in the room and the surface of the base is within +5...+25 degrees.
- Air humidity – no higher than 80%.
- The optimal temperature of the components when mixing them is 15-20 degrees.
- To prepare the solution, you must choose a place that will eliminate the possibility of accidental splashes on the surface to be poured.
The purpose of priming the floor is to clog the pores of the concrete, improve adhesion, and prevent peeling or swelling of the future coating.
In the case under consideration, the primer is a two-component composition; in other systems, a ready-made deep penetration primer is often used.
The required amount of component “B” is added to component “A” and thoroughly mixed, using both forward and reverse direction of rotation of the drill. Optimal speed is 500 rpm.
After obtaining a homogeneous mixture, wait for 2-3 minutes. to release air bubbles, and you can get to work.
- The soil is spread like a snake over the surface and evenly distributed with a synthetic padding roller.
If areas with increased absorbency are identified, they are immediately re-primed. You should get a uniform, smooth, glossy surface. The primary layer of soil will require from 18 hours to a day for polymerization.
- If required, at this stage you can seal small irregularities by mixing epoxy putty or even a small amount of the base composition of the self-leveling floor with 1-3 parts of quartz sand.
- After the primary layer, a second protective layer of soil is applied, which is immediately sprinkled with a small amount of sand.
A day later, preferably no more, they move on to the next stage.
Creating a Base Layer
The base, underlying layer will become a reliable basis for the finishing, front surface. It will completely seal all remaining pores, hide all unevenness and differences. It is also poured in two steps.
- First, a generous layer of epoxy primer is again applied to the surface, which is spread with a spatula so that no puddles form. Quartz sand is poured in excess on top of the unhardened soil (about 1.5 kg per square meter).
- After 15-18 hours, excess sand is removed with a stiff brush, and the surface is dust-free.
- Prepare the basic composition for pouring the floor.
There are some subtleties in its preparation - first, component “A” is mixed in the forward direction and reverse, and then, without stopping rotation, component “B” is poured in.
An absolutely homogeneous composition should be achieved.
After mixing, again 2-3 minutes for aeration - and the mixture is immediately put to work. Leaving it in the container for more than 10 minutes is contraindicated.
- The composition is poured onto the floor in even strips and distributed to the required thickness using a squeegee. In some hard to reach places you will have to use a spatula.
Average consumption is about 400-500 ml per square meter.
If you plan to decorate the floor with polymer inclusions (chips), then they are laid at this stage. It is better to carry out work wearing paint shoes on your feet and avoiding shuffling movements.
- After leveling the spilled mixture, it is given 15-20 hours to harden.
This layer will become the “face” of the future floor, so great care is required when pouring it. Besides decorative function This layer also bears the main mechanical load.
The composition is mixed in the same way as described above, but the amount of mixture per square meter will be greater - at least 1 liter per square meter at a surface temperature of about 20 degrees, or even 1.8 liters at 5 degrees.
With a smaller amount, the self-leveling effect may not be achieved. Preliminary leveling is also done using a squeegee.
Time is limited - the prepared epoxy mixture must be worked out in 30 - 45 minutes.
10-15 minutes after the composition is evenly distributed over the surface, but no later than half an hour, rolling with a needle roller occurs, which will free the layer from possible air bubbles.
Polymerization will last about a day, but the floor should be subjected to mechanical stress no earlier than after 4-6 days. During this period, the surface must be open, but protected from dust, dirt, and liquid.
A good addition would be to apply protective coating made of polyurethane transparent varnish. It is applied twice in a thin layer using a roller or brush. Its polymerization will take another day, and after 3 days the floor will be completely ready for full use.
After all layers have completely hardened, cuts are made around the perimeter of the room. expansion joints, which are sealed with a special sealant.
How much does the material for polymer self-leveling floor cost?
For example, prices for several popular systems of polymer self-leveling floors of various types:
| System brand | Short description | Consumption per sq. m (with a thickness of 2.5 mm) | Packing | Price (rub/kg) |
| "Elakor-ED" | 2.5 kg | comp. “A” - bucket 20 kg. comp. “B” – 4 kg canister | 225 | |
| "Elakor-PU" | polyurethane two-component composition | 2.5-3 kg | copm. “A” - bucket 18 kgcomp. “B” – 6 kg canister | 245 |
| "Elakor-ED Transparent floor" | epoxy two-component self-leveling floor | 2.1 (thickness up to 2 mm) | copm. “A” - bucket 20 kgcomp. “B” – 10 kg canister | 350 |
| Evropoll "Pro database EP" | transparent base two-component epoxy composition for the preparation of highly filled quartz mixture | — | comp. “A” - bucket 20 kg. comp. “B” - 5 kg canister | 200 |
| Duracon TR System-205 | Methyl methacrylate coating for medium and high loads, anti-slip effect | 3.3 (with a layer of 6-8 mm with saturation with quartz sand) | universal compound - containers of 180 kg. | 295 |
| -//- | -//- | -//- | Hardener Duracon catalyst, 25 kg canisters | 645 |
Recently, polymer floors have become relevant and in demand. Nowadays, construction is the most important sector of the national economy. A special place in the industry has been occupied by work on creating flooring in a particular space. Today, to create a floor, you can use the most various building materials – wooden boards, plywood, linoleum, concrete screed.
Advantages of polymer self-leveling floor
In recent years, the so-called liquid floor has become increasingly popular. It is also called liquid in another way. Unlike traditional building materials, it has some advantages. Floor polymer poured floors are a covering made of synthetic material. Most often they are used in large shopping centers, garages, exhibition halls, etc.
Polymer cast coatings are often used in production due to their reliability and long service life.
Creating such coatings with your own hands is quite simple. You should take a closer look at how filling is done. polymer coatings, the main stages of repair, the positive and negative aspects of self-leveling floors. Polymer fillings have a number of advantages, making floors in demand among consumers.
The advantage of polymer flooring is that it is beautiful and practical.
The advantages are as follows:
- There are polymer coatings various types(epoxy, polyurethane, methyl ethacrylate), depending on this, they can withstand high temperatures and are also moisture resistant.
- Despite the fact that polymer is used, they are clean, safe, and environmentally friendly.
- The floors are very easy to clean; they are easy to wash and treat with a cleaning agent.
- Impact-resistant polymer coating various kinds abrasive substances.
- Self-leveling coatings can have a glossy or matte surface, so you can choose a design that suits your taste and will match the style direction for your room.
- Self-leveling coatings contain a liquid substance that quickly hardens. Thanks to this, the floor dries quickly and adheres to any surface, be it wood or concrete screed. Unlike wood and concrete bases, this coating created quickly and effortlessly.
Thanks to all the above advantages, they prefer to fill in the coating with all more people, arranging the floors of apartments, private houses, offices, parking lots, etc. In addition, 3D coatings have been developed. They differ from standard coverage by the presence of complex images, which not everyone can do on their own. House master.
Preparatory work for self-leveling coatings
The difficulty in creating poured coatings is that they require a perfectly flat base. In the event that the basis is tiles, some roughening will need to be done. This can be done using sandpaper or sandpaper.
Problems may often arise when leveling the base if it is made of wood. To do this, it is primarily necessary to remove all uneven places, carefully sealing them.
The unevenness of the base of the floor surface can be clearly demonstrated when the joists are dismantled and the old covering is removed. However, a height difference is allowed, and it is 4 mm. If possible, it is better to use a concrete screed. If this is not done, then uneven places and defects can be removed using a special grinding machine or a sharpening stone.
You can install a polymer floor either independently or with the help of qualified specialists.
In order to determine the evenness of the surface, experts advise using:
- Water level;
- Building level;
- Other measuring device.
It will also be helpful to thoroughly prime the surface. The primer increases the moisture resistance of the surface and increases the adhesion of the poured floor to the base. After the base is well prepared, along the perimeter indoor space you need to nail down special slats like a plinth. This is necessary so that the liquid poured polymer does not spread into the voids between the floor surface and the walls. The slats are attached to self-tapping screws, nails (if the wall is made of wood) or dowels (if the wall is made of concrete).
Polymer self-leveling floors: mixture preparation technology
In order to make a PUR floor yourself, you should carefully prepare the working liquid composition. You can purchase the polymer mixture at any specialized store. After this, it needs to be diluted according to the instructions and technology.
This is one of the most important steps of all repairs, since the quality liquid composition The result of the repair work largely depends.
You need to prepare the mixture only according to the instructions that came with the purchased product. The mixing process plays a vital role. This must be done slowly, carefully, so that not a single lump remains. In addition, absolutely all air bubbles must be removed from the solution. Mixing can be done using a special construction mixer or other suitable remedy. Next important step- pouring the composition. The liquid mixture should be applied to the floor base from the area of the room furthest from the doors and carefully move towards the doors. The correct thickness of the floor layer should be approximately 4 mm.
Before proceeding with the installation of a polymer floor, it is necessary to correctly select and prepare a special mixture for pouring
If the layer is thinner, it will look like this:
- Not durable;
- Unreliable;
- Not durable.
Very thin layer can only be poured onto a finished base as an addition. It is best to pour the mixture together. One home craftsman holds a bucket of polymer composition and carefully pours it onto the floor, while the second levels the surface. You can use a wood strip for leveling. After the polymer poured floor has dried thoroughly, you can begin to apply varnish. Varnish is necessary to ensure that the finished coating is aesthetically pleasing, shiny, and more protected. In addition, varnish increases the wear resistance of the material and makes it smoother. The time it takes for the polymer to dry is approximately 30 minutes. But it is better to do everything in accordance with the instructions on the packaging of the material. The varnish is applied only to an already hardened surface. The coating should be applied in 3 or even 4 layers. It is not possible to walk on a newly flooded floor immediately. To avoid marks and defects, it is better to step on the finished floor after a day.
DIY tools and materials for polymer flooring
In order to make a PUR based floor polymer composition, you should have a whole arsenal of tools and building materials available. The set must consist of certain items and materials.
You should prepare in advance necessary materials and tools to avoid distractions while working
Namely:
- Water or building level;
- A rake for leveling the polymer solution when pouring it;
- Brush;
- Putty knife;
- Primer;
- Mortar, if a concrete screed will be installed;
- Container for polymer composition;
- Mixer.
In addition, wooden slats should be prepared to fencing the room around the perimeter for 3D poured coating. In this case the most important detail There will be a film with a pattern or a coloring composition. In order to give the flooring aesthetics, you will need to coat the surface with varnish.
Types of polymer floors (video)
As a result, one thing can be noted that a poured polymer floor is an innovative design solution for carrying out renovation work in a cottage or apartment. This technology has found wide application in production.