Tall greenhouse with your own hands. How to build a greenhouse to grow vegetables all year round

The presence of a greenhouse on a summer cottage is a common occurrence. Using different materials, you can build greenhouses of a wide variety of shapes and sizes. Work in them begins in early spring and ends in autumn. Having your own vegetables is not only economical, but also safe, since you can be confident in their quality. That is why many people have a desire to arrange winter greenhouse. You can grow vegetables and fruits in it all year round, even if it’s frosty outside.

Can an amateur summer resident build such a structure? In fact, the construction and arrangement of a winter greenhouse does not require much time and money, so you can handle the tasks yourself. In this article we will tell you how to build a winter greenhouse with your own hands, demonstrate the necessary drawings, as well as photo and video instructions.

Features and differences from a summer greenhouse

When constructing a winter greenhouse, unlike a summer greenhouse, a strong and reliable structure is made. It stands on the foundation. In addition, the winter greenhouse has a heating system. The quality and consistency of the temperature inside will depend on the latter. Every winter greenhouse must contain:

lighting;
heating;
ventilation;
watering.

The size of the greenhouse must be selected in accordance with the number of crops that will be grown. The coating material must be reliable. Plain film will not protect crops from frost and snow. It is also important to provide for the possibility of additional wall insulation.

When developing a winter greenhouse, several conditions must be met for good plant growth: light and temperature regime, as well as air humidity.

Main types of winter greenhouses

A modern winter greenhouse can be built from various materials. Today, the construction market is filled with innovative materials. They are characterized by increased strength, lightness and affordable price. This allows you to choose everything you need within even a small planned budget. At the preparatory stage it is necessary to plan the design. Her choice will depend solely on the plants that are planned to be grown.

The types of winter greenhouses are distinguished not only by the materials used, but also by their external forms.

Single-pitched - wall-mounted and with an earthen fill.
Gable - with main walls and a glazed roof.
Polycarbonate arched.

First of all, the parameters are calculated, since further calculations will depend on this.
It is also necessary to take into account functionality, that is, to know in advance the features of growing crops. In modern and modernized winter greenhouses, you can grow not only vegetables and fruits, but also mushrooms, herbs, and flowers.
The microclimate inside the structure will depend on the correct location of the greenhouse at ground level. If desired, the structure can be deepened inside and get the effect of a thermos, or construction can begin on the surface. Some people prefer to set up greenhouses in old buildings (garage or barn).
Big variety architectural solutions allows you to realize any ideas and ideas. You can build the structure yourself or buy a ready-made structure. You can also seek help from specialists.

Many people grow flowers of various crops for sale. When choosing exotic plants it is necessary to calculate all costs, as well as study the requirements for the construction.

When developing a project, it is necessary to take into account the material with which the frame will be sheathed. The winter greenhouse must be durable and airtight, so for arranging the frame choose:

tree;
metal.

Both materials are very durable, so it is quite difficult to choose one or the other. Metal is strong and reliable, but wood is much easier to work with. In addition, the wood will not heat up in high summer temperatures. To support the weight of the entire structure, as well as the load of snow on the roof, it is necessary to use strong and thick racks.

Frame covering material:

film;
glass;
cellular polycarbonate.

When choosing a film, it is necessary to sheathe the frame not in one layer, but in several. In addition, you should not use it to arrange the entire structure. Glass also has many disadvantages: heavy weight, fragility and difficulty in installation. The most suitable material for a winter greenhouse is cellular polycarbonate. The advantages include: light weight, light transmission, and ease of installation.

According to experts, the microclimate in a greenhouse made of wood is several times better than one made of metal. When choosing a tree, it must be treated with modern antiseptics and protective agents.

When choosing a site for the construction of a winter greenhouse, it is necessary to take into account three main factors:

Light. The winter greenhouse should receive maximum amount sunlight. The greenhouse is best placed lengthwise from west to east.
Wind. If the chosen location often experiences gusty and cold winds, it is necessary to consider protection. This will save on heating costs and constantly maintain an acceptable temperature and microclimate.
Convenience. Access or passage to the greenhouse should be wide and convenient. Thanks to this, it will be very convenient to use the greenhouse for its intended purpose.

When organizing protection from strong winds, you can plant hedge. It must be remembered that the fence must be placed at a distance of at least 10 m. The distance is calculated depending on the height of the ridge.

The most important thing in a winter greenhouse is heating. This process is the most labor-intensive and complex. To organize it, the help of specialists is required. But you can do everything yourself. It is necessary to choose the right type of heating, on which the productivity of the greenhouse will depend. Today there are many ways to heat even a large area. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages:

Sun. Affordable and cheap option. But it is not suitable for winter, because Sun rays not so strong and will not be able to heat. It can be combined with other heat sources.
Biological heating. Biologically active substances decompose, resulting in the release of heat. The simplest biological substance is manure. As with the sun, this method will not be able to completely heat even a small area.
Electricity. An affordable and popular heating method. It can be installed in any area away from home. You can use various electrical appliances for it: convectors, air heaters, infrared radiation, cable heating, heat pump and water heating.
Air heating. It is organized at the initial stage of construction of a winter greenhouse, in particular, when pouring the foundation. Using heating and ventilation units warm air supplied to the middle and upper part of the greenhouse.
Gas. Gas heaters are installed in the greenhouse, in which direct combustion occurs. To avoid oxygen burnout, it is necessary to ensure good system ventilation.
Bake. An affordable and economical option involves installing a stove and heating the entire area of the winter greenhouse. Gas, wood and coal can be used as fuel. Among the disadvantages is the heating of the walls, so planting plants next to the stove is not recommended.

It is necessary to choose the type of heating individually for each specific case. You must be guided by such criteria as local climate, planned budget and plant type.

Stages of construction of a winter greenhouse

Since the construction stages and technologies completely depend on the materials and design, there is no need to talk about standards. Using an example, we will look at the construction of a winter greenhouse, which is adjacent to the house. A brick is selected for the foundation. The frame is built from wooden beams or profile pipe. The entire structure will be covered with polycarbonate.

To create the effect of a thermos, you don’t have to go deep into the ground, but only raise the base. The depth of the foundation is 50 cm, the width is 40 cm. For convenience, it is better to make a strip foundation. Do not forget about the sand cushion or use fine gravel. The execution steps are standard and do not require any professional skills or equipment. After pouring, it is recommended to keep the foundation for a week. On hot days, the surface is moistened with water. A layer of waterproofing should be laid between the foundation and the plinth.

You can use used bricks to build the basement. If the financial side allows, then a new brick is selected. The height of the wall should be about 1 m. The thickness of the walls can be half a brick or a brick, at your own discretion. The frame is constructed from durable and pre-treated wooden beams. Anchors and dowels act as fasteners. Thus, a skeleton is installed that will be a reliable support for heavy loads. The frame for the roof must be made at an angle of 30° from the horizon.

The frame should be sheathed with polycarbonate according to the standard scheme and technology. For good result Several conditions must be met:

marking;
precision cutting;
accuracy of installation;
use of special fasteners;
sealing polycarbonate seams for tightness.

Several vents installed around the entire perimeter can serve as ventilation.

For greater savings, it is recommended to choose a location near your home. Thanks to this, one of the walls is already completely ready, so you don’t have to waste time, effort and money. So that the main part of the greenhouse is constantly warm front door it is necessary to attach a vestibule. For high-quality sealing you can use polyurethane foam and special sealants.

After all construction and sealing work has been completed in full, you can begin arrangement. So, it is necessary to supply water and electricity for lighting to the greenhouse. It is also important to take care of the shut-off valves, which will ensure a high-quality water supply.

When choosing light scattering sources, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of growing the selected crops. An equally important issue is the soil. The substrate is prepared, fertilizers and special additives (feeding) are added. They will ensure fast and proper growth of all vegetables and fruits that have been selected.

Guided by the tips provided, you can build and prepare a winter greenhouse for growing various crops in the winter in just a few days. It is enough to use all available materials and purchase missing ones. You can handle all the work alone, but it is better to have an assistant, especially when it comes to installing the skeleton of a winter greenhouse.

Video

To learn how to make heating in a winter greenhouse, watch the video:

Blueprints

Photo

Winter greenhouses are designed primarily for growing plants throughout the year. As we know, in winter, vegetables, berries and herbs are very expensive, so many summer residents build structures on their site with their own hands in order to always have fresh salads and compotes on the table. But before we start construction work, it is necessary to carefully think through the design of the future greenhouse, its heating system and make an accurate drawing.

Construction device

Today, winter greenhouses can be built from various materials. Therefore every owner summer cottage can choose the most suitable and cost-effective options for itself.

Shapes and sizes of greenhouses:

The design of the winter greenhouse must withstand very coldy, snowfalls and other atmospheric phenomena. The most durable, reliable and environmentally friendly pure material For the construction of the greenhouse frame, wood is used. But such a structure can last no more than 15 years, and then it will have to be updated.

The most durable and advantageous design is considered to be a greenhouse with polycarbonate sheathing, since this material is different high quality, long term service and affordable price.

Any winter greenhouse must have a foundation, frame and glass roof. It is best to build such a structure from north to south. The room should be well equipped ventilation system to regulate heat and air conditions for the proper functioning of plants.

Ventilation can be supply or exhaust. The tightness of the greenhouse is the main condition for its effective functioning. The temperature is maintained artificially.

The greenhouse can be racked, in which the plants are placed on shelves with sides, or rackless, where the plants are planted directly into the ground. The racks in the greenhouse should be approximately at a height of about 60–80 cm from the ground, and the passage between them should be at least 70 cm. The racks are made of wooden boards, plastic or reinforced concrete, depending on the design features of the greenhouse.

Photo gallery: selection of project options

Greenhouse drawing with dimensions
Scheme of a rack greenhouse
Winter greenhouse design option

Types of structures: advantages and disadvantages

Winter greenhouses come in several types depending on their design features, type of material used, type of lighting, heating system, and foundation design.

Capital greenhouses are built on a strip foundation. A trench is dug in the center, which is designed to “collect” cold air, which should not reach the roots of the seedlings. Thanks to this design, the inside of the greenhouse warms up quickly enough and therefore seedlings can be planted several weeks earlier than usual.
Capital types of conventional type greenhouses are collapsible structures that can be dismantled and moved around the site. To build such a greenhouse, use metal or plastic profile, polycarbonate, and bolted connections. Piles serve as the foundation.

The remaining types are prefabricated structures. Only in a permanent structure can a full-fledged heating and artificial lighting system be installed.

Greenhouses may differ in such parameters as:

Functionality. They allow you to grow not only ordinary vegetables of a given region, but also exotic ones.
Location in relation to the ground. Can be three types: recessed, surface and arranged in the upper part of a barn, garage, closet, etc.
Architectural solution. They can be with a single-pitched, gable, three-pitched roof, as well as arched, wall-mounted and combined.

Greenhouses also differ:

By type of building materials. They can be built from brick, wooden beams, metal profiles or PVC pipes. Polycarbonate or glass is used as a coating. Today, combined greenhouses, in which the walls are lined with polycarbonate and the roof is made of glass, are in great demand.
According to the type of heating system. Winter greenhouses can operate on biofuel, solar powered, and also have a stove, air, gas, water heating or electric.
By type of planting seedlings and plants. They are planted in the ground or in specially knocked down boxes placed on shelves.

Depending on the design, greenhouses are divided into the following types:

The thermos greenhouse, or as it is called the “Patia greenhouse,” despite the complexity of its design, is one of the most popular among summer residents. Its main part is located underground, due to which the “thermos” effect is achieved. It can also be above ground, but it must be covered from the inside with any thermal insulation material. In such a greenhouse it is recommended to install water system heating, as it will allow warm air flows to be evenly distributed throughout the room.
Greenhouse with gable roof is the most common design due to its convenience and versatility. The height of the greenhouse reaches 2-.5 meters to the ridge, so a person can walk in it without bending his head. Also, in it, seedlings can be grown not only on the ground, but also in special boxes on racks. The advantage of a gable design is that snow and rainwater do not accumulate on the roof surface, but quickly go down. Flaw: high price materials, the complexity of construction and large heat losses through the northern wall. Therefore, it must be additionally insulated with various heat-insulating materials.
The arched greenhouse is considered complex design, since it often causes problems with the construction of the frame and cladding. Without a special device to bend metal pipes for making a frame is almost impossible (but you can take PVC pipes). It is not possible to use glass to cover the frame, so all that remains is polycarbonate or various types of greenhouse films. The disadvantage of an arched greenhouse is real danger the occurrence of cracks in polycarbonate during heavy snowfall, since if the layer is too large, the roof will not withstand the load. There is no possibility to place racks and shelves inside such a structure, so plants can only be grown on the ground.
Greenhouse with sloping walls. The design of such a greenhouse resembles an ordinary “house” in appearance, but only with walls built at a certain angle, extending outside the room. The advantage of such a greenhouse is the possibility of construction from wood, metal, and plastic. Glass, polycarbonate, film can serve as cladding. The biggest advantage is considered to be “self-cleaning” gable roof. The downside is the restrictions on installing racks and shelves around the perimeter of the walls due to the sloping walls.
Greenhouse with mansard roof. A type of structure with vertical walls and a mansard roof, which copes well with mechanical loads such as snow. Thanks to the special roof, more space is created above your head, and on the walls you can place a large number of multi-tiered racks and shelves.
Single slope greenhouse. The design of the walls is no different from a gable roof, but here the roof is installed at a certain angle so that snow falls off it and rainwater drains without getting inside the room. Glass and polycarbonate can be used for cladding. For a winter greenhouse polyethylene film won't do. Along the walls you can install shelves and racks on top of each other for multi-tiered growing of plants. It is practically devoid of disadvantages, except for the complexity of construction and installation of a strip foundation.

Preparatory work: drawings and dimensions of the structure

We will consider the construction of a winter greenhouse 3.34 meters wide and 4.05 meters long. The total area of the room for growing crops is 10 square meters. meters.

The greenhouse is a square room buried in the ground with shelves and a roof made of durable two-layer polycarbonate.

If there is groundwater on the site and it is close to the surface, then the greenhouse is built without deepening, and the outer sides of the structure are sprinkled with soil.

If necessary, the length of the structure can be increased by adding additional sections to the frame.

Structure of racks and their dimensions

Where the beam connects, a triangular-shaped support is built. The dimensions are shown below in the drawing.

Ridge posts are needed to support the timber at the connection point. Also, the support should not come into contact with the polycarbonate sheathing.

A strong support system will not interfere when a person moves around the greenhouse. It is necessary if the length of the greenhouse is more than 4 meters. If the length exceeds these parameters, then supports are installed every 4 meters.

Corner supports are made of 100x100 mm timber, intermediate supports are made of 50x100 mm boards.

Construction of walls and thermal insulation

The pillars will be covered with boards on both sides, and insulation will be placed in the interior space.

To save money, you can take round timber Ø 120–150 mm, hewn to 100 mm. The walls are covered with slabs.

To insulate walls, use slag, sawdust or fine expanded clay. Added to sawdust quicklime as protection against small rodents.

When choosing timber and boards, it is necessary to take into account that this structure will be used throughout the year, so the lumber must be of high quality.

For the construction of supports and other parts of the frame, it is recommended to purchase pine boards and timber (rounded or glued). This is the most accessible, durable and cost-effective material for the construction of greenhouses in our region.

You can also choose larch or oak, but such lumber is quite expensive and therefore it is irrational to use them in this case.

Polycarbonate has excellent warmth and soundproofing characteristics. But the more complex its structure, the greater the mechanical loads it can withstand (snow and wind).

When choosing polycarbonate, you need to know its thickness.

For cladding the walls of a greenhouse, it is best to take sheets with a thickness of 6 to 25 mm, depending on the intended design.
For roofing, polycarbonate with a thickness of 16 to 32 mm is recommended, since this part of the greenhouse will bear the heaviest load.

Calculation of the required amount of material and tools

Beam with a section of 100x100 mm;
Board with a section of 50x100 mm;
Gorbyl;
Round timber Ø 120–150 mm;
Boards for making shelving;
Insulation;
Foamed polyethylene (aluminum foil);
Polycarbonate sheets;
Self-tapping screws and thermal washers;
Hardware;
Screwdriver;
Wood hacksaw or saw;

Step-by-step instructions for building an in-depth winter greenhouse with your own hands

We dig a pit 60 cm deep. Its length and width should be several centimeters larger than the perimeter of the future greenhouse. At the bottom we make markings for installing support pillars. We dig in the supports to a depth of about 50 cm.

At a height of one meter from the ground, stretch the construction rope and check the evenness using a level. We fill the supports with soil and compact them thoroughly.

We level the floor and cover the walls with boards outside and inside, starting from the bottom. We fill the space between them with the selected insulation. This is how we cover the opposite two walls.

After we have sheathed the walls, we need to saw off the excess ends of the boards that extend beyond the pillars. At the corners of the structure inside, we nail 50x50 mm bars onto the boards. Next, we will attach the sheathing to them on the front and back of the wall. This is how we sew up all the walls of the greenhouse. But we nail the boards to the vertical beams.

We seal the insulation inside the walls, adding required amount expanded clay, sawdust or slag to the top. Then we sew up the top of the walls with boards.

We also cover the inner surface of the walls with insulation made from special foil. We place the insulation so that it extends slightly at the top of the walls, and bend it so that it can cover the boards covering the upper part of the walls.

We make the roof separately from the main structure, and then install it on the greenhouse. We manufacture all other roofing elements according to the diagrams indicated in the drawing.

We connect the rafter parts into half a tree, and nail the lintel so that the distance at the bottom is 3 meters 45 centimeters. Since the jumper is temporary, we must nail it so that it can then be dismantled. The nails should not be driven in completely, but should be left 10 mm from the head so that they can be easily removed.

We assemble the rafters and nail them to the support as shown in the drawing below.

After we have nailed the rafters to the support, we remove the jumpers. Install ridge beam under the rafters and place front posts measuring 88 cm under it. We nail the outer rafters (20 cm) to the ridge beam. To do this, we pre-drill holes in the rafters. Then we install a jumper between the rafters, and install flashings on the side rafters, the ridge beam and on the front posts as shown in the drawing.

Reference. They are called naschelnikami wooden planks, which are designed to close various cracks.

We attach two-layer thick polycarbonate to the roof frame using self-tapping screws with thermal washers. To do this, we drill holes in the sheets larger than the diameter of the screws themselves.

After attaching the polycarbonate, we need to install a ridge corner from galvanized sheet metal. We fasten it with a gasket for insulation. We do not attach polycarbonate to the side ends of the roof until we have secured the roof to the main structure.

We install the roof on the walls and secure it with 4 metal brackets. They can be made from twenty-centimeter long nails. Then we install the side parts of the roof from polycarbonate triangles.

We install an insulated thick wooden door(thickness not less than 5 cm).

After this, you can install inside the greenhouse wooden racks and shelves for future seedlings. They are installed on the sides of the walls at a distance of approximately 60 cm from the floor. A layer of earth is poured on them or boxes with soil are placed.

Heating selection

The choice of heating system depends on the size of the room. For winter greenhouses with an area of more than 15 square meters. meters, stove heating is suitable. Large areas are usually heated with biofuel, electric heaters or a water loop.

Stove heating is an affordable and economical option for a greenhouse. In this case, a stove is installed in the room, which is heated with wood, coal, briquettes, pallets or gas. But since the walls of the oven become very hot, plants should not be planted near it.

Water heating requires a water heating boiler, pipes and a tank. The pipes are buried in the ground to a depth of about 40 cm or placed immediately under the shelves.

Electric heating can be three types: air, cable and infrared. Cable is a “warm floor” system, air is installed using fan heaters, and infrared is produced by special heating devices that are mounted under the roof of the greenhouse.

Biofuel heating is the most cost-effective heating option. Here, the indoor air is warmed due to the heat generated during the decomposition of various organic substances.

The most used biomaterials are:

Horse manure - capable of maintaining a temperature of 33 to 38°C for 2–3 months;
Cow dung- can keep 20°C for about 3.5 months;
Rotted tree bark - keeps at 25°C for about 4 months;
Sawdust - maintain 20°C for only 2 weeks;
Straw - can maintain a temperature of 45°C for up to 10 days.

Biofuel is placed in the ground under upper layer fertile land. When choosing a fuel type, it is necessary to take into account its acidity level, since it significantly affects the quality of the soil. Cow dung is considered the best as its acidity level is 6-7 pH. A more acidic environment is created by bark and sawdust, and an alkaline horse manure. Biofuel after its use can be reused as humus.

The type of heating is selected individually for each specific case, based on parameters such as the climate of the region, planned expenses and type of plants.

Before starting construction of the greenhouse, all wooden boards and beams must be treated with antifungal and antiseptic agents.
Before installing the supports, after treating them with protective agents, the lower parts must be tightly wrapped with roofing material and secured with a stapler.
It is also necessary to protect external walls, securing roofing material on them. And only then sprinkle them with soil.
The roof frame, after applying a protective coating and primer, is covered with white paint intended for outdoor work.
During the operation of the greenhouse, it is necessary to choose energy-saving lamps to create artificial lighting. They help you use electricity more economically. Their number and location depend on the dimensions internal space greenhouses.

Video: how to build a winter greenhouse with your own hands

If, when constructing a winter greenhouse, you strictly observe all technical standards and follow the drawn up diagrams and drawings, then such a design will delight you and your loved ones for decades wonderful harvests vegetables, berries and fresh herbs.

A greenhouse is a section of the garden that is not affected by the vagaries of weather and factors environment. Here you can create the microclimate necessary for plants. The greenhouse allows you to grow vegetables even in winter period. In addition, it makes it possible to arrange a greenhouse and winter garden, where you can admire greenery and flowers all year round.

Making a greenhouse is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. It is enough just to know what the structure consists of, as well as general laws its functioning. Many gardeners and owners of summer cottages build such structures on their own. In this article we will talk about how to properly make a greenhouse with your own hands, and show photo and video instructions.

Basis of design

The greenhouse consists of several parts. The basis of the entire structure is the frame. When choosing a frame, you must take into account that the strength of the entire building depends on its strength. Today you can find three main types of frames: wood, PVC and steel.

The wooden frame is easy to install. However, it is not resistant to various factors external environment.

This design has to be specially processed additionally, but this does not guarantee strength.

The advantage of wood is that it is a natural, environmentally friendly material.

Steel structures are very durable, wear-resistant and strong. They can withstand increased loads. Having installed such a frame, you don’t have to worry that the greenhouse will be damaged by snow, wind or hail. Steel is the most popular material for greenhouses. Very often, gardeners choose galvanized steel profiles.

The metal must be treated to protect against corrosion.

Some gardeners believe that metal will negatively affect the growth of vegetables and other plants. However, the assumption that plants develop worse in steel greenhouses is nothing more than a myth.

Constructions made of polyvinyl chloride are environmentally friendly, durable, and safe. Their strength depends, however, on the strength and thickness of the profile. The advantage of this material is that it allows you to create sealed systems in which the microclimate is completely regulated by the owner. The disadvantage of PVC greenhouses is their relatively high cost. Winter gardens are often installed in PVC structures, which serve as relaxation areas for the owners.

Before you build a greenhouse at your dacha, you need to carefully select the material for the frame.

Materials for covering greenhouses

To protect plants from unfavorable conditions environment, you need to choose a good covering for the greenhouse. There are several solutions to this issue available on the market today. There are three main types of coatings: glass, several types of special films and PVC materials.

It is better to choose durable glass as a coating. Triplex or tempered glass is suitable for greenhouses. If it is not possible to install any of these types, then you will have to install several glasses. The best option- This is an unbreakable coating that can withstand the load of snow, hail, and wind.

Glass transmits sunlight well, however, along with useful infrared radiation, ultraviolet radiation also enters the greenhouse.

Film is the most popular material for greenhouse construction. It is durable, wear-resistant and can withstand proper care many years. IN Lately Several types of film were produced specifically for greenhouses and greenhouses.

Light-converting film is useful because it converts ultraviolet radiation into infrared radiation. This stimulates the growth of vegetation and allows you to obtain good harvest from greenhouses.
Reinforced film has increased strength. In addition, it protects against frost. This is the type of coating that most owners of such structures choose.

Polyvinyl chloride materials have also found their supporters; monolithic and cellular polycarbonate, as well as transparent acrylic plastic, are widely used in the construction of greenhouses.

Cellular polycarbonate is especially in demand.

The plates of this material do not fade, look very aesthetically pleasing and serve long years. Possessing excellent heat-insulating properties, cellular polycarbonate is resistant to all natural factors. He is not afraid of either frost or heat.

You need to use cellular polycarbonate depending on the thickness:

3.5 mm - used in the construction of greenhouses and greenhouses;
4 mm - used in the construction of greenhouses and canopies;
6 mm - for canopies, greenhouses and stained glass windows;
8 mm is a widely used material.

The average price for cellular polycarbonate varies depending on the thickness: from 80 to 850 rubles. m 2

Choosing a place to install a greenhouse on the site

For the greenhouse you need to choose right place location.

It is better if the greenhouse is located at least on one side closer to the house. This will make it easier to conduct electricity into the room. Light in a greenhouse is necessary, especially in the winter season. In addition, electricity will be needed to install other devices in the greenhouse.
It is necessary to decide whether the greenhouse will function in winter. If you plan to use it all year round, then to ensure necessary conditions For plants, the structure is installed from west to east. The long sides of the structure will be located to the north and south, respectively.
To install the greenhouse you will need the right place. It should not be located in a low area where moisture flows. The area for the greenhouse must be level. Also, the place for the future greenhouse should not be located among trees or in the shade. Plants will need a lot of light.
The soil should not be clayey. Ideally, it should be suitable for the type of crops that are planned to be grown.

Types of greenhouses

Modern materials, especially PVC, allow you to create real masterpieces. Designs can take shapes that were previously considered impossible.

Among the most common types are single-pitched, arched, gable, tent greenhouses. Also, the structure itself can be collapsible or non-dismountable. It is convenient to have a collapsible one when you do not plan to use the greenhouse all year round. For permanent, year-round use, it is better to install a non-removable one.

Depending on the operation, the type of foundation of the future greenhouse is also determined.

Foundation for a greenhouse: which one to choose and how to do it right

In order to install a temporary greenhouse, you do not need a particularly strong foundation. You can use plastic bottles for this. But for the constant non-demountable design a foundation is needed. It will guarantee the strength of the structure and allow it to serve for many years in any conditions.

It is noted that a monolithic strip foundation would be ideal for such a case. The base of such a foundation must be located below the freezing level of the soil. The lower part is covered with crushed stone. The depth of the ditch is about 80 cm.

The base can be strengthened using reinforcement or reinforced mesh placed in concrete.

The entire structure depends on the strength of the foundation. This is especially important for greenhouses made of glass: disturbances in the base can cause it to crack.

Installing a greenhouse frame on a foundation - basic rules

Greenhouses are often produced already in finished form, all that remains is to assemble them, having first made the foundation.

It has been noted that it is better to assemble structures made of galvanized steel using fasteners: nuts and bolts. Welds may be subject to corrosion.

When installing a polycarbonate greenhouse, you should remember the peculiarity of this material. At high temperature It expands and contracts when cold. Therefore, in the work it is necessary to use sealants and silicone putties.

When installing polycarbonate sheets, you should always leave a small gap of a few millimeters between them.

Window openings are often installed in greenhouses. They are necessary for ventilation. It is advisable to plan such design details in advance.

Modern greenhouses are very complex systems; they are equipped with various devices, the simplest of which is an automatic watering system. However, even such units can be installed independently.

Polygonal greenhouses typically contain eight sides. Such designs have several advantages.

The polygonal design collects light rays well. At least one of its faces is always facing the sun.
Such greenhouses are very aesthetically pleasing. They are perfect for arranging a winter garden. The building decorates the site, rather than spoils it.
The design is very stable and can withstand strong winds and even hail.

The only difficulty that the owner of such a building may encounter is the glass. Polygonal greenhouse glass will have to be ordered if necessary. Because they have a specific shape. Another disadvantage of the polyhedron is the difficulty of heating the air evenly. However, using the latest technological systems, you can easily solve this problem.

Video: building a greenhouse

We present to your attention a series of videos about the construction of a greenhouse.

And this video will tell you about the construction of a year-round greenhouse.

If you are looking for where to buy a greenhouse, we recommend looking at specialized online stores, since their prices are often lower than in regular stores and markets.

Polycarbonate greenhouses are widely represented in the retail chain - for every taste and size. But many people prefer to do them themselves. Because a greenhouse made of polycarbonate with your own hands is much stronger and more reliable. At the same time, the costs are less or the same.

How to choose a design

If you decide to build a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, it is advisable to choose a design that allows you to use the main advantage of this material - its ability to bend. These are two types with curved roofs with arch-shaped supports.

In one design, the arcs extend from the ground itself. If they are curved in the form of a radius, a lot of area is lost at the edges, since it is very inconvenient to work there due to the small height.

Another design solves this problem - with a composite frame welded from several pieces. Straight posts emerge from the ground/from the base, which rise to a height of at least one and a half meters. An arc is welded to them. With this arrangement, the roof is rounded and the walls are straight. You can even work along walls without problems, standing up straight to your full height.

But the rounded greenhouse roof has several disadvantages. The first is that it is more difficult to make ventilation windows in it than in a straight line. The problem can be solved by making transoms in the walls rather than in the roof. The second disadvantage of a rounded roof in a polycarbonate greenhouse is that snow falls off from it worse than from flat ones. inclined surfaces. If you live in a region with snowy winters, you will either have to make reinforced trusses, or make a pitched roof - with one or two slopes.

There is a third solution - to make a rounded part of the roof from two arches, welded at an angle, which forms a kind of ridge. With this structure, the snow melts well and the ridge can be protected with a wide strip of metal. This will improve snow melting and protect the joint from leaks.

DIY polycarbonate greenhouse: material for the frame

The choice of materials for the frame is not very large. Profiled (rectangular) pipes are suitable, metal corner And wooden beam. Galvanized profiles for drywall are also used.

Wood

The timber is used for small greenhouses, and the design is chosen with a pitched or gable roof, since bending arches from wood is difficult and time-consuming. The cross-section of the beam depends on the size of the greenhouse and snow/wind loads in the region. The most popular size is 50*50 mm. Such supports are placed in Middle Zone. For greater reliability, corner posts can be made from 100*100 mm timber.

Moreover, to save money, you can not buy timber, but make it composite - from boards. Take two boards 50 mm wide and 25 mm thick, three boards 15 mm thick. Fold, knock down on both sides with nails. The resulting racks are stronger, better bear loads, and are less subject to torsion, since the wood fibers are directed in different directions.

Another option - larger size

If you build a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands on wooden frame, all boards/timbers must be treated/impregnated with antiseptics, and those intended for outdoor use. The ends that are buried in the ground should be treated with compounds for direct contact with the ground. Without such treatment, the wood, firstly, will quickly deteriorate, and secondly, it can become a source of plant diseases.

When connecting the posts to the trim (bottom strip), use reinforced steel mounting angles for greater rigidity and reliability. They are available in hardware stores. To increase the load-bearing capacity of the roof, additional lintels are installed.

Profiled pipes and steel angle

Most polycarbonate greenhouse frames are made from profiled pipe. If you have the skills to work with it, it’s not difficult to do everything yourself - cooking a square or rectangle is easier than round pipes. Another plus is that with help it’s easy to make arcs yourself.

The cross-section again depends on the size and natural conditions. Most often made from rectangular pipe 20*40 mm. But options are also possible. Another important parameter for this material is wall thickness. It is desirable that the metal be 2-3 mm. This frame can withstand significant loads.

A steel corner is also a good option, but bending it is a difficult task, so greenhouses are assembled in the form of a house - with gables or pitched roofs. The dimensions of the shelves are 20-30 mm, the metal thickness is from 2 mm.

Galvanized profiles

A do-it-yourself polycarbonate greenhouse with a frame made of profiles is the most unreliable option. It is good in areas with little snow in winters, and even without strong winds. The advantage of this option is that welding is not required. And the minus is not the greatest load-bearing capacity.

One of the frames. The jibs and stops are not superfluous.

The technology used is standard - as for constructing walls and partitions from plasterboard. The only difference is that the frame is sheathed on one side and polycarbonate is attached. It is advisable to make double racks - by merging two profile bearings, turning them “back to back” and twisting them with self-tapping screws. To make the frame more rigid, make bevels, connecting adjacent racks with inclined jumpers. It is advisable to make the roof pitched rather than round, and strengthen the trusses.

Foundation

If you are wondering whether a foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse is needed or not, there is only one answer - it is needed. And reliable. They fly very well. Therefore, the foundation must “anchor” the building well.

Belt type

This foundation is for buildings that are planned for more than one year. The most expensive, but also the most thorough option. If you plan to use the greenhouse all year round, the foundation is made deep - to a depth just below freezing of the soil. For seasonal suitable for use concrete-brick or simply made of timber.

Concrete-brick is one of the most common

Concrete-brick (concrete-beam)

Most often they make a concrete-brick version. It is optimal in terms of cost, complexity and duration. The work is carried out as follows:

A trench is dug according to the size of the greenhouse. Its width is about 20 cm, the depth depends on the type of soil.
Thick oilcloth or roofing felt is spread on the prepared bottom. This is necessary so that moisture from the solution is not absorbed into the soil. It is also advisable to cover the sides, but there the formwork panels partially solve this problem. Without this layer, concrete will not gain strength and will collapse.
The solution is poured into the resulting ditch. The proportions are as follows: for 1 part of cement (M 400) take 3 parts of sand and 5 parts of filler. Filler - preferably crushed stone of small and medium fraction. You should not use expanded clay - it absorbs moisture and can cause increased humidity.
The surface is leveled “under level”. You can smooth it out with a wooden block.
Mortgages - studs or pieces of reinforcement with a diameter of at least 12 mm - are installed in the foundation, in the corners and at a distance of 1 meter. Studs are installed if it is necessary to attach timber to them, and reinforcement if brick is to be laid. They stick out at least 15 cm above the foundation level.
The poured foundation is covered with film and left for at least a week (at temperatures below 17°C, two weeks should pass). If the weather is hot, water it a couple of times a day. To preserve moisture in this case, it is better to cover it under the film with a coarse cloth (burlap).
If bottom trim there will be a beam on top concrete base waterproofing is rolled out. You can use two layers of roofing material, but now it quickly deteriorates, so it’s better to take “Gidroizol” or something similar. You can coat the concrete with bitumen mastic a couple of times. The result will be more reliable.
A row of strapping is laid:
Next comes the assembly of the frame.

There are options for this type of foundation. You can install small ones in a prepared trench and fill the space between them with solution. They must be installed so that their edge is below ground level. A layer of concrete is poured on top and leveled. Mortgages are secured in the seams.

As building material can be used empty bottles. They are laid in rows and filled with concrete. It turns out to be very economical and warm foundation. Load capacity it is quite enough for a more serious construction.

Beam foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse

This option is suitable as a temporary solution - it can last two to three years. It depends on the humidity in the area, the quality of the wood and the processing. The timber is used with a large cross-section - 100*100 or more (can be made composite, from several boards). It is treated with compounds for wood in contact with the ground. The order of work is as follows:

This option is only suitable for dry, low-lying areas groundwater. In this case, one can hope that the foundation will survive for at least several years.

Pile-grill

Another type of foundation that will not protect against frost. But it is reliable and will last a long time. Complete, and we will give a short list of works.

Next, you can attach the strapping, or you can add a couple of rows of bricks and only after that install the frame. After this, we can say that the polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands is almost ready. All that remains is to fix the polycarbonate.

Which polycarbonate to choose

How long a polycarbonate greenhouse, purchased or built with your own hands, will last, how well it will “work” depends on the parameters and quality of the polycarbonate. One must take his choice responsibly - the sum is considerable.

Types of polycarbonate

There are three types of this material:

What type of polycarbonate is best to use for building greenhouses? Depends on the operating mode of the greenhouse. If it is heated, you will need a cell phone. If this is an option exclusively for the warm season, a corrugated (or monolithic) one is more suitable. Monolithic is also not bad, but corrugated has more rigidity. For greenhouses that are planned to be used from early spring or throughout the winter, cellular polycarbonate is installed. Due to its structure, it has superior thermal insulation characteristics - it retains heat better, although it transmits light worse (86% versus 95%).

Choosing cellular polycarbonate

It is not difficult to choose corrugated or monolithic - we are guided by the stated characteristics. It is only important that there is protection from ultraviolet radiation. There are no other pitfalls. But with a cell phone there are many nuances. You need to pay attention to the following:

The easiest way to check the quality of cellular polycarbonate is to try to squeeze it between your fingers. If it doesn’t press through, even if you make a significant effort, you can take it. If it squeezes easily, look for another one.

Installation features

According to the technology, polycarbonate is mounted using starting and connecting profiles. First, profiles are installed on the frame, a sheet of cellular polycarbonate is inserted into them, which is fixed to self-tapping screws with special press washers, which at the same time protect the attachment point from leaks. Profiles, in addition to holding the sheets in place, also protect the cuts from dust and dirt getting into the bottom. The system looks neat and works well, but all the components cost a lot of money.

Aesthetics for a greenhouse are not the best required property, therefore, if they need to save money, they prefer to mount it in a simple way, without profiles and press washers. Here's how to do it:

This is what directly concerns the fastening of cellular polycarbonate. There is one more point that became clear during the operation of polycarbonate greenhouses. Polycarbonate should not be placed close to the ground. It is desirable that it starts at least half a meter from the surface. Why? Because firstly, it still gets dirty and almost no light passes through it, so it does not affect the overall illumination. Secondly, it begins to deteriorate—blacken and flake. It is not clear what causes this reaction, but it is common. So, when developing a model of a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, provide half-meter walls made of another material - brick, building blocks. Doesn't matter.

The immediate purpose of the greenhouse lies in protecting plants from unfavorable factors, of which there are a great many. Creating a favorable microclimate in the greenhouse that is best suited for the crops being grown, increasing their productivity several times. And greens and fresh vegetables can be obtained much earlier compared to open ground. It is no secret to everyone that their price in the winter-spring period is an order of magnitude higher than the seasonal one. Therefore, growing crops in greenhouses is highly economically efficient.

Place for a greenhouse

If you are wondering how to make a greenhouse with your own hands, it is recommended to take an interest in the general factors that influence the choice of a greenhouse. This step should be taken carefully, because you will be buying a greenhouse for more than one year. By the way, the average useful life of such a design is close to 10 years.

To choose a place to build a greenhouse, you need to remember that the main purpose lies in the successful growth of seeds and comfortable conditions for fruit ripening. Therefore, it is better to select a flat place on the site that is well protected from the wind and where sunlight reaches in sufficient quantities. Therefore, it is worth installing a greenhouse in a place where there are no objects that create a large shadow.

It is not recommended to locate the greenhouse near fences and trees. However, sometimes placing a tree near a greenhouse is not a disadvantage, because in the summer it protects the structure from overheating, and in winter frosts allows the sun, having dropped its leaves, to penetrate through the branches and heat the greenhouse. You just need to make sure it doesn't grow excessively. But near coniferous tree, which maintains cover all year round, a greenhouse cannot be placed.

Also take into account the presence of buildings near the greenhouse. It may turn out that in summer the sun will be located above the roof, but in winter, on the contrary, it will not be able to rise so high, and the building will completely shade the greenhouse all year round. It should be remembered that a greenhouse requires electricity, water and gas. Therefore, you should not locate the greenhouse far from energy sources.

If you are aiming to build a winter greenhouse and grow plants in the cold season, then remember that the snow cover that is located around the greenhouse can directly reflect the sun's rays onto it. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure that snow on the greenhouse cover does not interfere with the penetration of lighting.

Greenhouses, greenhouses and conservatories should be installed on a flat surface. Installation on sloping ground provokes the destruction of the frame, because snow load in winter it is distributed unevenly and for middle latitudes it can be very significant.

Dimensions and shape of the greenhouse

When building a greenhouse, it is recommended to determine the dimensions in advance. To do this, you need to pay attention to the area of the site where the greenhouse will be located, and decide in what volume you will grow plants, and what grows next to the greenhouse.

The most popular forms are arched and gable greenhouses. To correctly determine the appropriate greenhouse shape for your land plot, you need to pay attention to two points:

Before making a purchase, try to determine what you will be growing. For short crops (low-growing tomatoes, eggplants and peppers) it is worth choosing arched greenhouse. For tall crops (tall tomatoes, flowers and cucumbers), a gable roof is better suited.
You shouldn’t forget about your own preferences, because the greenhouse should please you with its appearance.

The greenhouse base can be made in the form of a circle, trapezoid or rectangle, as well as their various variations. The most successful is a round greenhouse-tent, which uses sunlight effectively. The frame material is PVC, wood or metal.

Coating materials

If you are interested in what you can make a greenhouse out of, then remember that each material for covering a greenhouse has its own advantages and disadvantages. Greenhouse film attracts with its easy replacement, low price, low design requirements, and the possibility of using a frame made of wood or metal. The shape of the greenhouse can be a traditional arched one or an arched one with straight walls.

The film, which is well stretched over the arched structure, can be safely left for the winter. The film can easily serve for up to 4 years. The disadvantages include instability to mechanical damage and low thermal insulation.

But greenhouses covered with an expensive, short-lived film, and also fragile glass structures are becoming a thing of the past. Such buildings have been replaced by polycarbonate material, which is more attractive in its characteristics - good light transmission and thermal conductivity, strength and price. Therefore, cellular polycarbonate has become the most popular material for covering greenhouses today.

The main advantage of polycarbonate is its lightness and the use of such a greenhouse for up to 10 years. The ability to bend the sheet under a greenhouse arch provides a significant increase in the load from snow. The frame is usually metal. The dimensions of the greenhouse walls and the length of the arches depend on the size of the polycarbonate sheet.

If the covering material of the greenhouse is double-glazed or glass, then the frame design requires reinforcement with floor trusses and internal drains. The undoubted advantages of glass are its light transmission, durability and warmth. But the stringent requirements of the frame due to the heaviness and fragility of glass lead to an increase in the popularity of replacing glass with polycarbonate.

Frame materials

There are currently several frame options available on the market. Galvanized profile: this frame is protected from corrosion, but at the same time it has low strength indicators. Apply here thin sheets steel, which can easily become deformed.

The steel frame, which is coated with powder paint, protrudes sufficiently durable material, however, it is not durable due to corrosion. The material is also characterized by high thermal conductivity, which has a bad effect on the yield in some cases.

A square profile made of galvanized steel is called the best option for developers who are interested in how to properly build a greenhouse. This profile demonstrates high strength characteristics and is not subject to corrosion due to galvanization.

Greenhouse foundation

Greenhouse foundation except standard purpose additionally performs an important function, being an integral part of the pocket in which high beds are placed. Considering the fact that the foundation acts as an element of the overall structure of the greenhouse in its lower part, combining brick and concrete, it should not “walk” in the spring when the soil thaws, as this will otherwise lead to the formation of cracks and cause deformation of the arched structure.

The greenhouse glazing may also crack. Almost every gardener has encountered this issue during the construction of a garden house, so it is necessary to determine in advance the most acceptable options for dealing with certain deformations.

Laying the foundation for a greenhouse requires calculating the depth of soil freezing. It is advisable to dig a trench under the foundation, which is usually filled with sand and gradually compacted. The filling height must be at least 20 centimeters below the ground surface.

Around such a groove you need to place formwork 20 centimeters high directly above the soil. Metal reinforcement is placed in the formwork along the entire perimeter, and then it is filled with concrete. With the help of such simple manipulations it will be possible to create a foundation for the greenhouse in the form of a solid reinforced belt made of concrete, and is not subject to the influence of earth movement.

Frame construction and covering

The strength of the greenhouse frame allows you to reliably protect the crop from rain and wind. The construction of the frame should begin with marking the site. First of all, you need to decide what size the future greenhouse will be. The standard option is a compact structure for a summer cottage measuring 6 by 3 meters.

After this, you can begin assembling the greenhouse frame itself. To do this, strengthen the support posts in the soil in pre-dug holes. Along the perimeter of the structure there are 6 side beams with a length of 2.15 m with 3 central beams, which are 3 meters long. For bars cross section should be 10 centimeters.

After this, the bars must be deepened at a distance of about 40-50 centimeters, followed by careful fixation. The horizontal beams are secured to the top of each support. The legs of the rafters must be fixed at a step of 0.5-0.6 meters. On the north side, then install door frame dimensions 0.7 by 1.8 meters with further hanging of the door.

Then it is recommended to make a steamer. Create a frame from thin boards or logs rectangular shape for northern and southern wooden panels. The frames are deepened by approximately 40-50 centimeters, they are filled with biofuel, which is covered with a sufficient amount of straw and covered with a thick layer of soil. Please note that the northern part of your greenhouse should be raised to a height of 10-15 centimeters above the southern part, which is necessary for even distribution of sunlight.

At this stage, you should stretch the film onto the frame of the greenhouse. It is better if film is used for this purpose whole pieces. The ends of the greenhouse are completely covered with film. The film must be secured using wooden slats- they are nailed directly to the supports themselves.

Creating ventilation

In the construction of protected soil, under the influence of solar heat, a Greenhouse effect. Due to the rapid rise, air stagnates in the greenhouse, which is an ideal environment for the spread of diseases and the proliferation of pests.

Therefore, it is recommended to regulate the microclimate in the greenhouse by creating a ventilation system that provides an influx fresh air and maintains optimal air humidity. The operating mode of the ventilation system must be coordinated with the operation of shading and heating devices.

To ventilate greenhouses, it is customary to use side and roof vents, as well as doors. The surface of devices intended for ventilation must reach 20% of total area buildings. Ventilation promotes hardening of fruit and vegetable crops; it is useful for seedlings that are grown for planting in open ground. Two weeks before planting seedlings, you need to ventilate the greenhouse day and night. During the day, ventilation should be completed no later than 16:00.

To keep the room warm, prevent drafts and strong gusts of wind from entering. When air is heated, its density decreases and it rises. If you place vents under the ridge, warm air will come out through them, and cold air will replace it through the doors, gaps between the glass and cracks.

In small greenhouses, it is enough to build 1 window on each side of the roof. In general, for every 2 meters of greenhouse length there should be at least 2 vents. If you have built large greenhouse where you plan to grow alpine plants, in this case you will have to equip a continuous row of vents on both sides of the roof.

To speed up cooling and ensure complete air exchange, it is necessary to install side vents in the frame, which will be located slightly above the ground surface or at the level of the shelving. They can be made in the usual way or as blinds. The second option is best practiced if you plan to grow orchids and other plants in the greenhouse. tropical plants. Side windows are not suitable for such plants, because on windy days strong air currents pass through them, which can harm the flowers.

Thus, you already know how to build a greenhouse with your own hands, choose a location for the greenhouse and its shape. Depending on your goals and financial capabilities, select the material for the coating and frame. Be sure to think about ventilation and the air exchange process in the greenhouse.