A reinforced belt, also known as a monolithic belt or seismic belt, is a special design designed to solve two problems. First, distribute the load from what will be on top to what will be below. And, secondly, to connect the entire plane on which it is located into a single whole. Both a monolithic concrete armored belt and a reinforced brick one cope with load distribution. Both of them do an excellent job of distributing the load, say, from floor slabs to walls. If the task is also to connect the walls into a single whole, for example, from the bursting load of the roof rafters on the walls of the house, then you need a concrete reinforced belt.
How to make an armored belt with your own hands
Now that we’ve figured out what an armored belt is, let’s find out how to make it with your own hands. WITH brick armored belt it's simple. Usually, it is made of solid red brick of minimum grade M100 in several rows with reinforcement masonry mesh. You can also reinforce the masonry with reinforcement with a diameter of 6-8 mm. With a concrete, monolithic armored belt, the situation is more complicated.
First you need to set up the formwork. This can be either wooden formwork or “tray” formwork or not. removable formwork, if we are talking about armored belts on aerated concrete or foam concrete blocks. You can use factory U-blocks or make your own trays. To do this, it is not necessary to cut a U-block from a regular gas block. It is enough to make masonry from a thin aerated block with external and inside. The space between these blocks can be insulated with extruded polystyrene.
After you have made the formwork, a reinforcement frame is placed inside the tray.
Sufficient reinforcement for an armored belt measuring 200 by 200 mm is a frame of 4 threads of reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm (two on top and bottom), fastened with transverse clamps with a diameter of 6-8 mm every 30-50 cm.
The standard overlap of reinforcement should be 30-40 diameters. That is, if you are laying 12 mm reinforcement, then when building it up, you need to make an overlap of about 40 cm.
In the corners, reinforcement is necessary fold over so that the corner is connected by solid reinforcement.
It is advisable to place the frame made of reinforcement on plastic clamps of the thickness of the protective layer of concrete. And put the clamps on the vertical clamps. If there are no factory fixings for the protective layer, you can use pieces of stone, brick, etc.
Pins under the Mauerlat or pieces of reinforcement are attached to the reinforcement frame for subsequent fixation of the floor slabs.
Now you can proceed directly to pouring the reinforced belt with concrete.
If you will be pouring purchased concrete, choose the M200-M250 brand. This grade of strength is absolutely enough for private construction.
If you plan to prepare concrete for pouring the armored belt yourself, then use universal recipe proportions of concrete for the armored belt: 1 part cement grade 500, 2 parts sand, 4 parts crushed stone.
You can also use one of ours to calculate the composition of concrete. Don't forget to add concrete plasticizer to the mix. This will make the filling more convenient for you, and the resulting armored belt more durable.
After pouring, cover the armored belt with film to prevent sudden drying. For the same purpose, wet the concrete for the first 2-3 days.
The armored belt will be ready for loading in a week. Full maturation of concrete will be completed 28 days after pouring. 
The most frequently asked questions on the topic of reinforced belts.
In what cases is an armored belt needed?
A monolithic reinforced concrete belt is required:
- on a block foundation
- on walls made of aerated concrete, foam blocks, etc. under hollow core slabs And wooden beams overlaps (to prevent squeezing). Here the armored belt can be brick
- under the Mauerlat on the roof, the design of which assumes a spacer load on this same Mauerlat
Is it possible to fill the armored belt in winter, in cold weather?
Filling an armored belt in winter is a questionable task. However, if you really need to pour it in the cold season, take all measures to protect the concrete. Add special anti-frost additives to concrete. Use as much as possible less water for mixing concrete. After pouring, be sure to cover the armored belt to protect from the cold. For example, sawdust. IN minus temperature, use a special heating cable. It is sold in any construction supermarket.
What is the minimum thickness, height, width, size of the armored belt?
The minimum size of the armored belt is 150 by 150 mm. But not less than the width of the support of the slabs or floor beams.
The armored belt freezes, what should I do?
If you or your workers forgot to insulate the armored belt before pouring, then you will have to insulate it now. The armored belt is insulated from the outside.
Condensation on the armored belt. The armored belt is sweating. What to do?
Insulate. Other options: increase the room temperature, reduce the room humidity.
Is it possible to fill the armored belt in parts?
Can. To do this, make a bevel at the junction. And the concrete doesn't have to be smooth.
Video on the topic of reinforced belt
The reinforcement in the reinforced belt consists of working reinforcement (10-12mm), and structural reinforcement of a smaller diameter (frame - 6mm). Often, reinforcement is made of 4 or 6 rods. In this article we will describe in detail and show reinforcement schemes, methods of bending reinforcement and other nuances of the reinforced belt.
The reinforcement frame is needed to fix the working reinforcement in correct position. That is, two or three bars of reinforcement at the bottom of the reinforced belt, and two bars at the top.
For a frame, fittings with a diameter of 6 mm are quite suitable; you can even use thick wire.
The size of the frame should correspond to the thickness of your wall, taking into account the insulation and protective layer of concrete. Extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 30 to 50 mm is best suited as insulation.
Often the frame has edge dimensions of approximately 120-200 mm.
Such square frames can be easily made in the following way.
We take a board (20-50 mm thick. 200 mm wide), draw a square, for example, 150 by 150 mm, drill a hole in the corners of the square.
The holes should be about 9mm so that the 10mm reinforcement fits tightly. The reinforcing bars themselves should be about half a meter long.
Place the board on the ground and hammer four reinforcing bars through the holes of the board into the ground. The template for bending the frames is ready. It is more convenient to bend the reinforcement along the frame using a pipe. For such a frame, the reinforcement blanks should be about 600 mm long.
Working fittings of the armored belt
The working fittings are thick ribbed wire with a diameter of 10 mm, preferably 12 mm. The working reinforcement in the armored belt works in bending, creating high rigidity designs. The reinforcement must be continuous (circular) and pass over all load-bearing walls. If the building has very long openings, then the places of the reinforced belt above the openings need to be reinforced with an additional lower reinforcement bar.
The working fittings must be inside the frame, and are tied to the frames with ordinary binding wire; welding is not needed here.
- The height of the armored belt is made from 200 to 300 mm.
- The distance between frames should be from 200 to 400mm.
- The overlap of the reinforcing bars should be 500 mm.
- To reduce the consumption of reinforcement, it is better to use longer rods to reduce the number of overlaps.
- Do not forget about the protective layer of concrete, which should be 40 mm on all sides.
At the corners, be sure to bend the working reinforcement and use additional reinforcement clamps, see the diagram below. It is convenient to bend the reinforcement using a long pipe.
Reinforcement schemes for armored belts
It is also worth noting that mounting reinforcement cage it is better at the place where it is poured, since in assembled form it will weigh a lot.
The formwork must be strong enough to withstand the pressure of the concrete. Pay special attention to leveling the formwork along all planes.
If you don’t have a professional tool for vibrating concrete, you can use the following method: take a hammer drill and hit the reinforcement in hammer mode, the concrete is compacted and air bubbles come out.
To build a house, various materials are used, which have their own functional characteristics. One of the building material options is aerated concrete blocks. The material has enough advantages, but at certain stages and places of installation it needs strengthening. An auxiliary element in the process is the construction of a reinforced concrete belt.
What is an armored belt?
- is closed structural element buildings made of monolithic reinforced concrete, which exactly follows the contours of the building along the entire perimeter. Can be used for both load-bearing walls, and for interiors. The reinforcing belt has other names such as seismic and unloading.
What is it needed for?
- Increases the level of resistance of building walls from harmful atmospheric influences.
- Aerated concrete blocks under the pressure of the roof can be subject to some degree of deformation from strong pressure on them, and the armored belt gives rigidity to the entire structure.
- If a house is built on a site with loose soil or in a seismic zone, the walls may crack due to uneven shrinkage of the foundation. The unloading belt promotes uniform shrinkage.
- The blocks have a fragile structure and it is not recommended to attach beams to them with anchors when installing the roof, because the point load exceeds the stability indicators. A high-quality basis for this is an armored belt.
What does it represent?
The structural element of the building, the armored belt, is a metal frame (in the shape of various geometric shapes- parallelepiped, square), filled with concrete or glue mixture. After the concrete has completely hardened, the structure becomes a monolithic formation with a base (aerated concrete blocks) and allows further construction work to be carried out.
Methods for constructing an armored belt
- The most common way to construct a reinforcing belt is to attach it directly to the walls of the building.
- The formwork for a reinforced concrete belt can be special U-shaped aerated concrete forms, in which the process of constructing a frame and pouring concrete is no different from the method using wooden boards. On the one hand, it is fast and convenient, but on the other, it is very expensive.
- The reinforcing belt can also be made using, but using as a rigid fastening, a reinforcing mesh.
Types of armored belt
For each stage of building construction, there is its own type of reinforcing belt - it all depends on the need for their use:
- Foundation belt ().
- Base belt (seismic).
- Interfloor belt.
- The main belt for roof construction, for fastening.
Required materials and tools
Tools:
- Concrete mixer.
- Wooden boards and nails.
- Shovel – bayonet and “worm”.
- Hand saw or electric jigsaw.
- Hammer.
- Welding machine and electrodes.
- Pliers.
- Building level.
Materials:
- Sand.
- Cement grade M400-500.
- Dropout
- Metal rods with a diameter of 10-12mm.
- Wire for knitting (elastic).
Installation of armored belt on aerated concrete
The construction of a reinforcing belt is not a simple process at all and requires certain skills. All parameters should be taken into account and the materials selected correctly. It consists of several stages:
- Construction of formwork.
- Manufacturing and installation of reinforcement frame.
- Pouring concrete.
Detailed step-by-step guide
Construction of formwork
- To construct wooden formwork you will need wooden boards of varying widths, but with a thickness of at least 20mm to prevent possible effect bursting in knotty places. If possible, you can use wooden shields.
- The lower part of the boards is attached directly to the aerated concrete blocks. You can drive long nails (150-180mm) through the boards or tighten self-tapping screws.
- The following boards are fastened to the original base by connecting them together edged board from the outside along the length (perpendicular).
- Identical board connections occur on the outer and inner sides of the walls along the entire perimeter.
- During the construction of formwork, it is necessary to constantly check the level of the upper plane of the boards, because this is the boundary for the future concrete mixture. Differences in the plane relative to the zero level from the level threaten additional construction work.
- To parallel planes wooden formwork during the process of pouring concrete did not creep away in different directions from the pressure of the concrete - jumpers are installed between them. The jumpers should have a pitch of 800-1000mm.
Manufacturing and installation of reinforcement cage
- It should be noted that the construction of a metal frame occurs directly in the formwork, because it is impossible to place the assembled frame due to partitions and the significant weight of the structure itself.
- To ensure that the frame is in a “suspended” state and its elements are not adjacent to the aerated concrete blocks, the remains of bricks or other construction debris are placed under it.
- Calculation of side elements metal frame(stiffening rods) assumes a distance from the formwork of 50 mm on each side.
- To begin the process, two long metal rods are laid parallel to the bottom of the formwork, and constrictions (connectors) are welded between them. If not used welding machine– the joints are tightened with dressing wire.
- Rods are welded or tied perpendicularly to the created “ladder” base. To create a full-fledged reinforcement “cage”, the upper part is attached to the rods in a similar way to the lower version.
- Along the entire length of the frame and especially at the corners of the building, the reinforcement should be strengthened with additional adjacent rods. The more jumpers and additional elements in a frame - so much the better.
Pouring concrete onto a metal frame
Before you start pouring the constructed frame, you need to make sure that the capabilities of the concrete mixer and the amount of materials for concrete are sufficient so that there are no gaps. After all, the main condition for creating a high-quality belt is the continuity of supply (pouring) of concrete. If the process complies with the technology, cracks will never appear in the armored belt and the integrity of the structure is guaranteed.
Components of concrete:
- Cement M400-500.
- Sand.
- Fractional screening (5×6 or 5×7mm).
- The proportions are 1:3:5 plus water in the required amount.
The prepared solution is gradually poured into the formwork and to prevent the formation of “air cushions” it is necessary to walk on the surface hand tools– vibrating plate. With its help, the concrete mixture will penetrate into all areas of the formwork.
Formwork filled with concrete cannot be dismantled in the first two days (natural bonding of the mixture). After the deadline has passed, dismantling is necessary, but further work cannot be started, because the final strength of the reinforced belt is achieved 15-20 days after pouring.
Current prices
- 1 linear meter rod (12mm) – 80-100 rubles.
- Dressing wire (100m) – 250-300 rubles.
- Sand (1000kg) – 800 rubles.
- Elimination (1000kg) – 1700 rubles.
- Cement (50kg) – 450-500 rubles.
In accordance with current ruble exchange rates, prices may vary and prices are relative. It is also necessary to take into account that if the work is carried out by hiring specialized workers, you should add + 45-50% to their wages in the overall estimate for the purchase of materials.
Dimensions/thickness of armored belt
In accordance with established standards, the thickness of the belt corresponds to the width of the wall of the building being constructed (30-60cm). The height of the belt may vary, but master builders recommend 25-35cm.
Changes general sizes- are quite acceptable, because the buildings have various characteristics, and the strength of the walls can only be guaranteed by an armored belt.
Aerated concrete without armored belt
In 95% of cases, it is not recommended to erect buildings without strengthening their walls with a reinforcing belt, because the service life is reduced significantly. At the slightest vibrations caused by soil shrinkage or natural phenomena, the buildings are slightly deformed and cracks appear in the walls (this is a draft).
What to replace it with?
Considering the fact that a reinforced concrete structure (reinforced belt) is a rather expensive structural element when building a house, it can be replaced with a less cheap one - brick. As a rule, it is used which performs two functions during the masonry process - giving an aesthetic appearance and reinforcing aerated concrete blocks.
How to replace?
Instead of a reinforced concrete structure, you can use brickwork. In this process, the quality of the brick does not matter at all, because in the future its surface will be refined - plastered.
The armored belt is performed like a regular one, but with one addition - metal grid(0.5-07mm) is laid between the rows. In this way, the possibility of the slightest movement (deformation) between the bricks is prevented. This method may be 70% equivalent to a real armored belt, but it will give you confidence.
- It is not recommended to carry out pouring a concrete layer at temperatures below -5-10°C.
- All work must be carried out by master builders, and not by “shabashniks”.
- It is necessary to monitor the quality of materials and their compliance with GOST (standards provided by the manufacturer).
Conclusion
Construction of a house from aerated concrete blocks must ALWAYS be equipped with an armored belt, and in some cases more than one. This belt is for a long time will preserve the integrity of the building.
Armopoyas is a monolithic reinforced concrete structure that runs along the perimeter of the entire building in order to increase the resistance of the structure to external and internal loads. This could be shrinkage of the house, natural phenomena, interior decoration and much more that causes deformation of the walls. An armored belt for aerated concrete is usually installed between floors under the floor beams and directly under the roof; this is necessary so that the walls can withstand the weight of the roof and cracks do not form.
It is considered mandatory when building a house from aerated concrete blocks, for several reasons:
- During the construction of the roof truss structure, anchors and studs are used to attach the Mauerlat to the wall. This creates a point load that aerated concrete cannot withstand.
- If you lay the beams of the rafter system directly on aerated concrete, without creating a reinforced belt, this can lead to many problems. If there is the slightest deviation in the roof level, cracks will appear.
- The seismic belt is a rigid frame that also distributes the load evenly across the entire house. This is important when hanging rafters are used in the rafter system.
In order for the structure to be strong and durable, the unloading belt must be done consistently, while observing many rules.
Materials, tools, sequence of work
To create such a device you will need the following materials:
- Water.
- Gas blocks, for example.
- Boards.
- Fittings.
- Stone.
- Concrete mixture.
- Net.
- Brick fragments or rubble.
- Insulation.
- Wall chasers, electric and manual.
- Diameters.
- Equipment for aerated concrete.
The following tools will also be needed:
- Roulette.
- Self-tapping screws.
- Mallet.
- Anchor bolts or studs.
- Vibrating machine.
- Concrete mixer.
- Notched trowel.
- Level.
- Spacers, fasteners.
First you need to make an accurate calculation. Typically, the thickness of the seismic belt is equal to or narrower than the wall, and the height is 30 cm. Depending on the size of the house and the load, the diameter of the reinforcement and its required amount.
Formwork
To fill a structure with concrete, removable formwork must be made; most often it is made from boards, the thickness of which is 2 cm or more. U-blocks and brick are also suitable, but we will focus on the classic version.
Reinforcement is placed and fastened into the formwork, which is filled with concrete mortar; it is easy to prepare it yourself using a concrete mixer, because a large amount of mortar will be needed.
To arrange the formwork, they usually use knitting wire and spacers, which are made of wood 15 cm long. The most simple option Formwork is considered to be a frame made of boards. They are spliced together from the outside with pieces of wood. The top of the box must be secured with transverse ties so that it can withstand pouring concrete and not collapse. The lower part of the entire wooden structure must be screwed to the wall with self-tapping screws. As a result of all the work, a niche should remain, which is filled with insulation. This is necessary so that heat loss through the unloading belt is minimal.
Reinforcement frame
The frame is equipped in several ways: a couple of rods or four (then in cross-section it will look like a square). This can be calculated based on what the load will be. If the building does not have heavy concrete floor blocks, then two rods may be sufficient. It is not recommended to use welding to fasten reinforcement. It is best to tie it with a special wire directly in the formwork. You can do this in advance, but lifting such a structure once assembled will be problematic. The frame must be placed level, this is checked using a level. It is important that the reinforcement is at least 5 cm away from the formwork walls.
Correct filling of the unloading belt is of great importance; it is monolithic, so it must be filled at one time. Many people order ready-made concrete, but it must have a grade of at least M200. When making the solution yourself, you need to mix crushed stone, sand and cement in a ratio of 5:3:1, and bring the solution to the desired consistency by adding water; it is best to rent a concrete mixer.
The most important thing is that concrete is poured only once; multiple layers cannot be poured. If it is not possible to prepare the required amount of solution immediately, then vertical cutoffs are installed. When the next portion is ready for pouring, the partition is removed, and the joint must be thoroughly wetted with water.
To remove voids that could form inside the mixture in the formwork, the bayonet method is usually used - pierce the solution several times with a piece of reinforcement. When everything is done, you need to wait 3-4 days and dismantle the formwork.
To quickly and efficiently create an armored belt, the main thing is to understand how to reinforce it correctly. Everything can be completed within a few days, to a large extent it depends on the professionalism and number of workers. Reinforcement of walls made of aerated concrete blocks is sometimes mandatory, without monolithic belt the structure can quickly collapse.
The armored belt in a house made of aerated concrete, brick (other block materials) during construction serves additional protection walls and other load-bearing structures from deformation and movement. In other words, this belt is nothing more than a reinforced concrete structure designed to strengthen the walls and foundations of a house from various loads that arise under the influence of both external and internal factors
. External factors include the impact of wind, soil movement, terrain features of the site and, of course, seismic activity of the earth. Internal factors include redistribution of load from load-bearing elements, connection of columnar elements (foundation), installation of additional fasteners and structures.
To study the issue in more detail, let’s consider the process of installing an armored belt using the example of a house made of aerated concrete. However, this technology is also applicable to other types of houses, where the walls can be made of brick, expanded clay blocks and any other block materials. But, first of all, let’s determine the factors acting on the walls and figure out why an armored belt is needed in this or that case.
Why do you need an armored belt in the house? To understand the principle of operation of a reinforcing protective structure, let’s consider it within the framework of building a house. Any stone or block material works better in compression than in tension. Tensile and torsional loads can arise both due to settlement of the building, heaving of the soil at the foundation, and for other reasons. This may also be caused incorrect calculation load-bearing capacity, causing the walls to various areas
will receive both compressive and more critical tensile loads. These masonry areas may not be structurally ready for them. As a result, the walls will crack. By adding reinforcement with concrete at the top of the masonry between floors, we will additionally protect the walls from destruction. In the lower part it is almost always performed, which is still the same protective belt. A properly executed warping copes well with loads, so there should be no problems at this level. Using an interfloor armored belt, we add reinforcement to the structure that copes with stress. At the same time, the wall itself becomes more rigid and conditionally works like an I-beam. The monolithic belt also resists lateral loads from the wind and bursting loads from the roof much better. The sum of all these properties increases the seismic resistance of the house, which is a mandatory requirement for any residential building in earthquake-prone areas. We have reviewed multi-storey scheme, however, the armored belt is also applicable in a one-story house with or without an attic. In this case, a belt under the Mauerlat is used in conjunction with the foundation.
The armored belt also redistributes point loads well. This is especially important for materials that are not ready to work with local point loads - these are gas silicate blocks and other similar materials. Therefore, in a house made of aerated concrete it is necessary to carry out reinforcement under reinforced concrete slabs ceilings A similar principle of load redistribution also applies to wooden base for rafter legs. But, at the same time, in order to properly secure the Mauerlat to a structurally weak wall, an armored belt is needed. The under-roof belt will increase the structural rigidity of the walls and will also resolve issues regarding the fastening of roof structures.
Calculation of reinforced belt
Armopoyas - main stages of manufacturing
Rebar frame
Assembling the frame begins with installing reinforcement on the top of the wall. When laying it, it is necessary that it is subsequently recessed in concrete at least 40 mm from the outer boundaries of the monolithic belt. When working with aerated concrete, for convenience, you can drive control sections of reinforcement into it. And attach the frame to the segments with a given distance from the top of the masonry. To tie the reinforcement together, you will need a soft binding wire. To set the dimensions of the frame, it is recommended to create a square of four pins or bend it from a solid rod (transverse clamp). These clamps are primarily attached to sections driven into the wall at a certain interval - usually 250-300 millimeters
The lower row of longitudinal reinforcement is inserted into frames - clamps and connected with wire. The top row is fastened in the same way (the longitudinal reinforcement should be inside the clamp). As discussed above minimum required- two fittings at the bottom and two at the top. For additional rigidity, the amount of reinforcement and frame configuration can be changed. Naturally, this will affect material costs. But if this is necessary, you should not neglect the calculation. We also note that the length of segments or solid squares (transverse clamps) is related to the thickness of the armored belt. For example, the thickness of the belt is 300 millimeters, then the dimensions of the transverse clamps are 220X220 millimeters (taking into account that the height of the belt is also 300 millimeters). That is, we leave indentations from the edges of at least 40 millimeters.
Formwork
Let's consider the formwork. What options for installing a monolithic belt in a private house may be:
- Using factory-made or home-made U-blocks as formwork.
- Formwork from.
U-blocks made of aerated concrete are used as permanent formwork for the installation of reinforced monolithic lintels covering openings in walls and partitions, as well as for the installation of monolithic reinforced strapping belts that impart spatial rigidity to the entire building and redistribute the load from the floors. U-shaped blocks are elements permanent formwork for reinforced concrete. The diameter of the reinforcement and the class of concrete for filling the U-block are selected by calculation, depending on the perceived load. When choosing these elements as formwork, consider the insulation method concrete tape. It is advisable to insulate the block from the outside, but if this is impossible in certain cases, put insulation inside (given the internal factory dimensions, this is not the best option).
With a possible thickness of the outer wall of 375-400 millimeters, it can have the following structure:
- Outside - a block 100-150 mm thick.
- Next in order, we insulate the armored belt to cut off the cold bridge. Instead of extruded polystyrene foam 50-100 mm thick, you can use mineral wool increased density, which is used in the “wet facade” technology.
- Reinforcement frame.
- On the inside of the wall, blocks 50-100 millimeters thick are used as permanent formwork. The remaining space is filled with concrete.
The advantages of this type of formwork include the speed of its installation. To strengthen the structure, you can use additional ties made of bars or reinforcement connecting the internal and external blocks.
Performs several functions: it gives shape to concrete, protects it from spreading and subsequently serves as an excellent insulator.
The advantages of this formwork method:
- Easy to assemble formwork. Issued ready-made blocks, including corner joints.
- High installation speed.
- The installation of reinforcement is made easier because there are special grooves for it.
- It is easier to control the dimensions of the concrete tape.
- The concrete will harden in the formwork, which will protect it from rapid drying and sudden temperature changes.
- Extruded polystyrene foam is a waterproofing material.
This technology may seem very expensive. But if you take into account the cost of insulation, the cost of assembling and dismantling conventional wooden formwork, then the difference becomes insignificant. Alternatively, you can make this formwork not from factory blocks, but yourself from expanded polystyrene. But this will be a more labor-intensive option.
For an armored belt in an aerated concrete house, it is the most labor-intensive to manufacture. At the first stage, you need to make shields from boards. To do this, put them together and connect them together using wooden blocks and nails.
At the second stage, ready-made panels are installed around the perimeter of the future reinforced belt. Concrete mortar will create pressure on the walls of the formwork, therefore, in order to prevent the formwork from moving apart, it is necessary to fasten the entire structure with clamps.
Pouring concrete
In general, this stage should not cause difficulties. The only inconvenience is the delivery of concrete to the very top of the wall. The quality of concrete should not be lower. At self-production solution using M-500 cement, the following proportion will help: a bucket of cement / three buckets of sand / five buckets of crushed stone. It is recommended to use thick concrete - this way it does not put too much pressure on the formwork. It should not be forgotten that the concrete must be properly compacted. After pouring the concrete, cover it with film. This way you will reduce moisture evaporation. As a rule, it takes about two days for the concrete to completely set, after which the formwork can be removed (provided that it is collapsible).
Video: armored belt in a house made of aerated concrete
This video demonstrates the installation of a Mauerlat reinforced belt on aerated concrete walls. Formwork in in this case made of plank panels. When viewing, please pay attention Special attention reinforcement connections at corners. It is better to additionally connect the studs for fastening the roof to the frame reinforcement and not waste energy on useless reinforcement in a fragile gas silicate block.
To conclude, we note that the reinforced belt in a house made of aerated concrete and any other block material is waterproofed before further stages of work. Whether this is advisable or not is up to you to decide. Naturally, when considering the foundation belt, it must be covered with insulation in any case, since there is moist soil nearby. With belts above the foundation, with proper construction of the walls, there should be no moisture in the concrete. But still, it would not be amiss to separate the Mauerlat belt with waterproofing from the wooden structures of the rafter system.
Aerated concrete is a warm, inexpensive and easy-to-install material. That is why it is considered a very good alternative to brick. However, in terms of strength, blocks made from this material are, unfortunately, significantly inferior to the latter. Therefore, laying walls from this material has some nuances. Firstly, it must be carried out on a very reliable foundation, and secondly, during construction the evenness of the structure should be carefully checked. The third condition for the reliability of aerated concrete walls is the installation of a reinforced concrete armored belt on top along the entire perimeter. We'll talk about it in this article.
Purpose of the design
An armored belt for aerated concrete is poured specifically to prevent cracking of the walls under the pressure of the roof. In addition, this design is used for more reliable fastening of the Mauerlat. One of the disadvantages of aerated concrete is that it does not hold fasteners very well. Of course, the armored belt should be constructed strictly adhering to the prescribed technology.
Device methods
You can make an armored belt for aerated concrete walls correctly and with your own hands in two ways - using wooden formwork or special additional blocks. The first filling option is technologically more difficult. Constructing a structure using blocks is a very simple procedure, but will cost more.
How to make an armored belt using formwork?
With this method of constructing a reinforcing structure, you will need to prepare the following materials:
| Material | Characteristics | What is it needed for |
| Edged board | Minimum 2.5cm thick | Manufacturing of formwork |
| timber | 40x40mm | Manufacturing of formwork |
| Nails | Attaching boards to the wall | |
| Wire | Flexible | To add rigidity to the formwork structure |
| Expanded polystyrene | 20mm | Insulation of armored belt |
Tools you will need are a drill and a hacksaw
The height of the armored belt is usually 40 cm. Therefore, each side of the formwork will have to be knocked down from two boards 20 cm wide. Instead of boards, you can use thick plywood.
Important: The formwork must be installed immediately along the entire perimeter of the wall. There should be no horizontal joints in concrete.
They fasten the formwork panels to the walls with self-tapping screws, or simply nail the elements with long nails. Spacers from 40x40 timber are installed on top between the shields, spacers are cut out to the same length, equal to the width of the armored belt. They are installed between the shields in 1.5 meter increments. In order for the reinforced belt on aerated concrete to be absolutely even, the structure should be given rigidity. To do this, the opposite beams holding the shields together (they should protrude about 20 cm above the surface) are intercepted with wire and twisted with an iron rod, tightly pressing the walls against the spacers.
Tip: On the inside of the house, the formwork panel (from the inside) can be lined with sheets of expanded polystyrene. Concrete has a much higher degree of thermal conductivity than aerated concrete and therefore, without insulation, the reinforced belt will become a cold bridge, which will worsen the operational characteristics of the building. After pouring the armored belt and removing the formwork panel, the polystyrene foam can be secured to the concrete with “fungi” dowels or in some other way.
Fill
An armored belt is installed for a building made of aerated concrete with mandatory reinforcement. To make the structure more reliable, a 12mm rod is used. The frame is tied together using knitting wire. Welding is not allowed, as the metal inside the concrete will quickly begin to rust.
The frame is installed inside the formwork on 30mm or special blocks plastic coasters. The filling itself must be done at one time. If this cannot be done, first pour a layer around the entire perimeter of the formwork without interruptions. The next one will need to be filled no later than 12 hours later.
Construction of an armored belt using blocks
With this installation of the armored belt, everything is extremely simple. The blocks are installed on the walls in the usual manner. Next, their central empty part is reinforced and also filled with concrete.
Well, we hope now you understand how to make an armored belt for aerated concrete. This design is mandatory for houses of this type. Filling it, as you can see, is not difficult, but the walls will be much more reliable and durable.
Video on the topic “How to make an armored belt for aerated concrete with your own hands”:
Remove the steel hoops from a wooden barrel and it will fall apart. Remove the reinforced belt from the house and the building will not stand for long. This is a simplified but very clear explanation of the need to strengthen walls. Anyone who is planning to build a durable house will benefit from information about the purpose, types and design of armored belts.
What is this structure and what functions does it perform? Armopoyas - ribbon made of monolithic reinforced concrete, which is laid on several levels of the building under construction.
The reinforced belt is poured in the foundation, under the floor slabs and under the mauerlats (supporting beams of the rafters).
This amplification method performs four important functions:
- Increases the spatial rigidity of the building.
- Protects the foundation and walls from cracks caused by uneven settlement and frost heaving of the soil.
- Prevents heavy floor slabs from pushing through fragile gas and foam concrete.
- Reliably connects the roof truss system with walls made of light blocks.
Reinforced concrete has been and remains the main material for increasing the rigidity of walls. For small outbuildings, you can use a less powerful brick armored belt. It consists of 4-5 rows of brickwork, the width of which is equal to the width of the load-bearing wall. In the seam of each row, a mesh with a cell of 30-40 mm made of steel wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm is placed on the mortar.
In what cases is an armored belt needed?
For walls
Reinforcing walls with a reinforced belt is not always required. Therefore, there is no need to waste money on its device in the following cases:
- under the base of the foundation lies a strong soil (rocky, coarse clastic or coarse sand, not saturated with water);
- the walls are built of brick;
- under construction cottage, which is covered with wooden beams rather than reinforced concrete panels.
If the site contains weak soils (pulverized sand, loam, clay, loess, peat), then the answer to the question of whether a reinforcing belt is needed is obvious. You cannot do without it even when the walls are built from expanded clay concrete or cellular blocks (foam or aerated concrete).
These are fragile materials. They cannot withstand ground movements and point loads from interfloor floor slabs. The armored belt eliminates the risk of deformation of the walls and evenly distributes the load from the slabs onto the blocks.
For (the wall thickness is not less than 30 cm, and the strength grade is not lower than B2.5), an armored belt is not needed.
For Mauerlat
The wooden beam on which the rafters rest is called the Mauerlat. It cannot push through the foam block, so someone may think that an armored belt is not needed under it. However, the correct answer to this question depends on the material from which the house is built. Fastening the Mauerlat without an armored belt is allowed for brick walls. They securely hold the anchors with which the Mauerlat is attached to them.
If we are dealing with light blocks, then the armored belt will have to be filled. In and anchors impossible to securely fix. Therefore, a very strong wind can tear the Mauerlat from the wall along with the roof.
For the foundation
Here the approach to the amplification problem does not change. If the foundation is assembled from FBS blocks, then an armored belt is definitely necessary. Moreover, it must be done at two levels: at the level of the sole (base) of the foundation and at its upper cut. This solution will protect the structure from intense loads arising during the rise and settlement of the soil.
Rubble concrete strip foundations also require reinforcement with a reinforced belt, at least at the level of the sole. Rubble concrete is an economical material, but not resistant to soil movements, so it needs reinforcement. But a monolithic “tape” does not need an armored belt, since its basis is a steel three-dimensional frame.
There is no need for this design for a solid foundation slab, which is poured under buildings on soft soils.
What types of interfloor ceilings require an armored belt?
Under panels that rest on expanded clay concrete blocks, gas or foam concrete, a reinforced belt must be made.
It does not need to be poured under a monolithic reinforced concrete floor, since it evenly transfers the load to the walls and firmly connects them into a single spatial structure.
An armored belt for a wooden floor that rests on light blocks (aerated concrete, expanded clay, foam concrete) is not required. In this case, it will be enough to pour under the beams support platforms made of concrete 4-6 cm thick to eliminate the risk of pushing through the blocks.
Someone may object to us, pointing out a number of cases when the reinforced belt is poured under the wooden floor of the floor. However, in this case, reinforcement is required not because wooden beams on concrete pads are capable of pushing through the masonry, but to increase the spatial rigidity of the building frame.
How to make an armored belt correctly?
The technology for constructing a reinforced stiffening belt is no different from the method of pouring a monolithic foundation.
In general, it consists of three operations:
- Manufacturing of reinforcement frame;
- Installation of formwork;
- Pouring concrete.
Certain subtleties and nuances in the work appear depending on the area where the armored belt is located.
Reinforced belt for the foundation
Answering the question of how to make a reinforced belt under the foundation (level 1), let’s say that its width should be 30-40 cm greater than the width of the supporting part of the main concrete “ribbon”. This will significantly reduce the pressure of the building on the ground. Depending on the number of storeys of the house, the thickness of such a stiffening belt can be from 40 to 50 cm.
The reinforced belt of the first level is made for all load-bearing walls of the building, and not just for the external ones. The frame for it is made by knitting reinforcement clamps. Welding is used only for preliminary connection (tack welding) of the main reinforcement into a common spatial structure.
Armoyas of the second level (on the foundation)
This design is essentially a continuation strip foundation(rub concrete, block). To reinforce it, it is enough to use 4 rods with a diameter of 14-18 mm, tying them with clamps with a diameter of 6-8 mm.
If the main foundation is , then there are no problems with installing the formwork under the reinforced belt. To do this you need to leave it in free place(20-30 cm) for installing the reinforcement cage, taking into account the protective layer of concrete (3-4 cm).
The situation is more complicated, since formwork is not installed for them. In this case, wooden spacers should be used, which support the formwork panels from below. Before installation, cut boards are stuffed onto the boards, which protrude 20-30 cm beyond the dimensions of the formwork and prevent the structure from moving to the right or left. To connect the formwork panels, short crossbars are nailed to the top of the boards.
The fastening system can be simplified by using threaded rods. They are placed in pairs in the formwork panels at a distance of 50-60 cm. By tightening the studs with nuts, we get a sufficiently strong and stable structure for pouring concrete without wooden supports and crossbars.
This system is also suitable for formwork, which requires an armored belt for floor slabs.
The studs that will be filled with concrete need to be wrapped in glassine or a little machine oil applied to them. This will make it easier to remove them from the concrete after it has hardened.
Reinforced belt for floor slabs
Ideally, its width should be equal to the width of the wall. This can be done in the case when the facade is completely lined with slab insulation. If for decoration it is decided to use only plaster mortar, then the width of the armored belt will have to be reduced by 4-5 centimeters in order to leave room for foam plastic or mineral wool. Otherwise, a through cold bridge of very substantial dimensions will appear in the area where the stiffening belt is laid.
When making an armored belt on aerated concrete, you can use another solution. It consists of installing two thin blocks along the edges of the masonry. A steel frame is placed in the space between them and concrete is poured. The blocks act as formwork and insulate the belt.
If the thickness of the aerated concrete wall is 40 cm, then partition blocks 10 cm thick can be used for this purpose.
If the wall thickness is smaller, you can cut it yourself in a standard masonry block cavity for an armored belt or buy a ready-made aerated concrete U-block.
Reinforced belt under the Mauerlat
The main feature in which the armored belt under the Mauerlat differs from other types of reinforcement is the presence of anchor pins in it. With their help, the timber is firmly fixed to the wall without the risk of tearing off or shifting under the influence of wind loads.
The width and height of the reinforcement frame must be such that after embedding the structure between the metal and the outer surface of the belt, at least 3-4 cm of a protective layer of concrete remains on all sides.
The installation of an armored belt increases the strength of load-bearing walls and the resistance of the entire structure to various loads: uneven shrinkage of soils and objects, exposure to wind, seismic vibrations and temperature changes.
Armored belt device photo
Formwork for armored belt. Types and methods of device
Armopoyas is a monolithic reinforced concrete structure. The belt has a circular outline, fits on the walls, and has no breaks (gaps) in its body. The solution to the question: how to properly make an armored belt begins with the installation of formwork. The most accessible formwork material is board. The formwork for the armored belt is made either from separate boards or from ready-made wooden panels, connected to each other from the outside with wooden scraps. The bottom of the boards is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws. At the top, the opposite walls of the formwork are connected wooden ties(on nails). The spacing of the ties is 80 cm, but not more than 100 cm.
Do-it-yourself armored belt
When making an armored belt with your own hands, you can use another option for creating it, in which the formwork is not wooden structures, and the U-shaped blocks are made of aerated concrete. Trough blocks are laid the same width as the wall, and have a cavity inside for laying connected reinforcement frame and concrete. It is especially advantageous to install a belt with such “formwork” along external walls, because the side walls of U-shaped blocks act as insulation and eliminate the formation of cold “bridges”. The disadvantage of tray blocks is their high price.
How to make an armored belt with high quality
The geometric and technical characteristics of a monolithic structure are determined by calculation. Usually the width of the belt is equal to the width of the wall, 30-50cm. Since the support of the prefabricated or monolithic ceiling on the walls is only 120cm (in practice - 150-200cm), then based on this, the width of the belt can be taken smaller. The recommended height of the armored belt is 30cm.
In cottages where it is planned to create light floors, installation in the belt is allowed flat frame. The ladder frame is prepared directly on the wall, directly in the formwork. It consists of 2 rods (for a wide wall 3 rods) of a periodic profile (calculated diameter), connected to each other by transverse rods. The spacing of the rods is 50 cm. The reinforced belt under the floor slabs carries higher loads. Therefore, the frame is made three-dimensional from 4 or 6 longitudinal reinforcing bars and tied with transverse wire clamps.
Armopoyas for aerated concrete
The frame on all sides must have protective layer made of concrete 4-5 cm. From below it is laid on supports made of brick or concrete chips. It should be noted that an armored belt is installed on aerated concrete not only on external walls, but also on load-bearing ones internal walls. And if along the length of the wall transverse rods and clamps can be connected with knitting wire, then at the corners of the structure and in places where the frame branches into internal load-bearing walls, the connection of longitudinal reinforcement and transverse elements is performed by welding. The frame is leveled strictly horizontally.
Armobelt under the Mauerlat
When installing truss structure roof, its bottom row - Mauerlat, is attached to the load-bearing wall with special anchors and studs. Herself rafter system creates a bursting load, which can lead to deformation of the walls. Armobelt under the roof ensures wall strength and stable rigidity roofing system. It will be performed similarly to the procedure for installing a monolithic belt under the ceiling. The armored belt under the Mauerlat serves both to distribute the load over the entire surface of the wall and to insert fasteners for the Mauerlat itself.
How to fill an armored belt
Problem: how to fill the armored belt is solved at the final stage of constructing a monolithic structure. For filling, you can use ready-made purchased concrete mixture brand M200 (B15). Another option is to produce concrete at the construction site. M400 cement, sand and crushed stone are taken in a ratio of 1:3:5. All components are loaded into a concrete mixer, water is added to the desired consistency and mixed. It is important that concrete is poured into the formwork continuously and not in parts. To remove air bubbles from the mixture, after pouring the concrete mixture should be vibrated or the concrete should be intensively pierced along the entire length of the belt with a piece of reinforcement.
Reinforced belt for aerated concrete made of bricks
In practice, as an option for strengthening wall structures, an armored belt for aerated concrete is sometimes made from brick. It is a conventional solid brick masonry reinforced with reinforcement. Reinforcement is carried out with masonry mesh made of wire: 4-5 mm through each row of masonry in height. The solution is cement-sand in a ratio of 1:4. The height of the brick belt is taken from 20 cm to 40 cm. The width of the belt can correspond to the width of the wall, but perhaps narrower. Of course, an armored belt made of brick cannot be called equivalent in strength characteristics to a reinforced concrete belt. However, it is reliable when building houses in areas with low seismic activity or for the construction of auxiliary facilities and outbuildings.
Insulation of armored belt
To prevent the reinforced belt from becoming a “bridge” of cold and to avoid the formation of condensation on it, it is necessary to insulate the armored belt. Therefore, monolithic or brick belt, most often, they are not performed across the entire width of the wall, but with an indentation from its outer edge. It is important to maintain a minimum width of the reinforced belt, equal to 20 cm for concrete and 25 cm for brick. The resulting longitudinal niches are filled with heat-insulating material, which are partition aerated concrete blocks laid on spoons (10 cm), polystyrene foam slabs and other materials.
A reinforced monolithic or brick belt gives the building structures of a house made of aerated concrete blocks increased strength. And for all household members, it becomes a guarantor of a safe, long and happy stay in a new home.
They call it an armored belt reinforced concrete structure, which is designed to strengthen the walls of the house. This is necessary to protect the walls from loads arising under the influence of external/internal factors. External factors include wind exposure, terrain slope/hilliness, floating soil and seismic activity of the earth. The list of internal factors includes all household construction devices used in interior decoration Houses. If you make an armored belt incorrectly, then due to these phenomena the walls will simply crack, and what’s even worse, they will corrode. In view of this, it is very important to be aware of how to make an armored belt. The types, purpose and method of installation of the armored belt will be discussed in this article.
There are 4 types of armored belt:
- grillage;
- basement;
- interfloor;
- under the Mauerlat.
Before starting work, you should prepare the following tools/materials:
- Fittings.
- Cement.
- Sand.
- Crushed stone.
- Wire for tying reinforcement.
- Boards.
- Self-tapping screws.
- Brick.
- Shovel.
- Crowbar/crowbar.
To ensure that all the work you perform is done with high quality, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the techniques for manufacturing reinforced mesh/framework and formwork.
In order for the reinforced belt to be of high quality, and therefore the house to be reliable, you need to know how to properly make the reinforced mesh/frame. The connection of the reinforcement bars to each other is carried out using a knitting wire, and not a welding seam. This is due to the fact that during welding, the area near the seam being made overheats, which leads to a weakening of the strength of the reinforcement. But you can’t do without welding seams when making mesh. The middle and ends of the frame are welded, while the remaining connecting nodes are tied together.
The rods are fastened to fix the reinforcement in the required position when pouring concrete. For these purposes, thin wire is used; the strength of the mesh/frame does not depend on it.
For the manufacture of armored belts, only ribbed rods are used. Concrete clings to the ribs, which helps increase load-bearing capacity designs. Such a belt can work in tension.
To make a frame, take 2 wires 12 mm thick and 6 m long, while for transverse reinforcement you will need rods 10 mm thick. The transverse reinforcement should be welded in the center and edges. The rest of the rods are simply knitted. After making two meshes, hang them so that a gap is formed. Weld them from the edges and in the center. This way you will have a frame. There is no need to weld the frames to make the belt. They are laid with an overlap of 0.2–0.3 m.
Installation and fastening of formwork is carried out using several methods. To install wooden panels, you need to pass anchors through them and install plugs on them using electric welding. The purpose of these actions is to fix the formwork in such a way that it is not squeezed out under the weight of the concrete.
To secure the formwork when pouring an interfloor armored belt, a simpler method is often used. A screw with a diameter of 6 mm and a length of 10 cm should be fixed to the bottom of the shield. The distance between them is 0.7 m. So, attach wooden shield to the wall, drill a hole through it, insert a mushroom into it and hammer in a screw.
The hole in the shield should be slightly larger than 6 mm in diameter. This is necessary in order to easily install the fungus.
The upper part of the formwork is also secured with quick installation. But in this case, you should screw in a self-tapping screw, not a screw. So, make a hole in the face brick. Then drive the reinforcement into it. If the brick is solid, then the situation is simpler - just drive a nail/reinforcement into the vertical seam. Tighten the self-tapping screw and reinforcement with binding wire. The distance between fastening elements is 1–1.2 m. Such fastening is capable of withstanding the upcoming loads.
After the armored belt has hardened, the formwork can be removed using a crowbar/nail puller. In the warm season, concrete sets within a day. In this case, the dismantling of the formwork can be carried out the next day. During the cold season, this procedure is carried out a few days later.
Initially, you should determine the depth of the foundation. This parameter depends on the type of soil, the depth of its freezing, as well as the depth of groundwater. Then you should dig a trench around the perimeter of the future house. This can be done manually, which is long and tedious, or with the help of an excavator, which is quick and efficient, but entails additional costs.
After special equipment is used, the bottom and walls of the trench should be leveled to solid ground. The surface should be as hard and smooth as possible.
Now you need to form a sand cushion, the height of which should be 50–100 mm. If it is necessary to backfill sand more than 100 mm, it must be mixed with crushed stone. This activity may be necessary to level the bottom of the trench. Another way to level the bottom is to pour concrete.
After filling the sand cushion, it must be compacted. To complete the task faster, pour water on the sand.
Then the reinforcement should be laid. During construction in normal conditions you need to use reinforcement of 4–5 cores, the diameter of each rod should be 10–12 mm. It is important that when pouring the grillage for the foundation, the reinforcement does not touch the base. It must be recessed in concrete. Thus, the metal will be protected from corrosion. To achieve this, the reinforcing mesh should be raised above the sand cushion, placing brick halves under it.
If you are building a house on heaving soil or where the groundwater level is high, then the grillage should be made more durable. For this instead reinforcing mesh reinforcement cage should be used. He imagines 2 meshes consisting of 4 wires with a diameter of 12 mm. They should be laid below and above the armored belt. Granular slag is used as a base instead of a sand cushion. Its advantage over sand is that over time, granulated slag turns into concrete.
To make the mesh, a knitting wire is used rather than a welding seam.
For the grillage, M200 concrete should be used. To ensure that the filling height corresponds to the specified value, install a beacon in the trench - a metal peg equal in length to the height of the grillage. It will serve as your guide.
Before erecting walls, a basement reinforced belt should be poured onto the foundation. It must be poured along the perimeter of the building along external walls, but this cannot be done along internal load-bearing walls. The base armored belt serves as additional reinforcement of the structure. If you have filled the grillage with high quality, then the plinth belt can be made less durable. The height of the armored belt is 20–40 cm, concrete M200 and higher is used. The thickness of two-core reinforcing bars is 10–12 mm. The reinforcement is laid in one layer.
If you need to strengthen the base belt, then use reinforcement of greater thickness or install more conductors. Another option is to lay the reinforced mesh in 2 layers.
The thickness of the basement and external walls is the same. It ranges from 510 to 610 mm. When pouring the base armored belt, you can do without formwork, replacing it with brickwork. To do this, you need to make half-brick masonry on both sides of the wall. You can fill the resulting void with concrete after placing reinforcement in it.
In the absence of a grillage, it is useless to make a base armored belt. Some craftsmen, having decided to save on the grillage, strengthen the base belt, using reinforcement of a larger diameter, which supposedly improves the load-bearing capacity of the house. In fact, such a decision is unreasonable.
The grillage is the foundation of the house, and the plinth belt is an addition or strengthening of the load-bearing capabilities of the reinforced belt for the foundation. The joint work of the grillage and the plinth belt guarantees a reliable foundation even on heaving soils and with high level occurrence of groundwater.
An armored belt must also be made between the wall and the floor slabs. It is poured along external walls with a height of 0.2 to 0.4 m. Interfloor armored belt allows you to save on door/window lintels. They can be made small and with a minimum of reinforcement. Thus, the load on the structure will be distributed evenly.
If an armored belt is installed on walls made of poorly load-bearing material, the load from the floor slabs will be distributed evenly along the entire length of the walls, which will have a beneficial effect on their strength characteristics.
Reinforcement of the interfloor belt is carried out with a mesh of ribbed reinforcing bars 10–12 mm thick in 2 cores. If the thickness of the walls varies between 510–610 mm, then double-sided brickwork can be used as formwork, as for the base belt. But at the same time, backing bricks should be used for internal masonry, and facing bricks for external masonry. In this case, the armored belt will have a width of 260 mm. If the walls are thinner, the backing brick should be laid on edge or wooden formwork should be used instead, and the facing brick should be laid on the outside in the same way as in the previous case.
The armored belt can be poured under the Mauerlat only after the glue/mortar for masonry walls has hardened. The technology used to lay the reinforced belt on aerated concrete differs in the formwork design, but we will talk about this a little later. The production of wooden formwork is carried out according to a scheme already familiar to you. Concrete is prepared according to the following formula: 2.8 parts sand to 1 part cement and 4.8 parts crushed stone. Thus, you will get M400 concrete.
After filling, eliminate any remaining air bubbles in the mixture. To accomplish these tasks, use a construction vibrator or poke a rod into the liquid mass.
When constructing a monolithic armored belt, the rules for fastening the Mauerlat must be observed. During the installation of the reinforcement frame, vertical sections should be removed from it to the height specified in the project. The reinforcement bars should rise above the reinforced belt by the thickness of the Mauerlat + 4 cm. Through holes must be made in the beam equal to the diameter of the reinforcement, and threads should be cut at its ends. Yes, you can do it reliable fastening, which will give you the opportunity to implement high-quality installation roofs of any configuration.
Aerated concrete is an alternative to brick, which has high thermal insulation qualities along with low cost. Aerated concrete blocks are inferior to brick in strength. If when installing an armored belt on brick walls it is not necessary to pour concrete, since the reinforcement is laid during the laying process, then with aerated concrete things are different. How to make an armored belt on wooden formwork has already been discussed above, so in this subsection we will look at how to make a reinforced belt from U-shaped aerated concrete blocks D500. Although it is worth immediately noting that this technology is more expensive.
In this case, everything is extremely simple. Place the blocks on the wall as usual. Then reinforce their central part, and then fill it with concrete. Thus, the walls of your home will be more durable and reliable.
If you still have questions on the topic, then ask them to a specialist working on the site. If necessary, you can consult with our expert about filling the armored belt. Eat personal experience? Share it with us and our readers, write comments on the article.
Video
You can learn how to make an armored belt for a house made of aerated concrete from the video: