Concrete blind area. Do-it-yourself blind area: step-by-step instructions with recommendations Construction of a concrete blind area near an apartment building technology

The importance of the blind area in the construction of a building can hardly be overestimated, since the durability of the constructed building will depend on it. The term “concrete blind area” usually means a concrete waterproof edging around a building, designed to protect it from the penetration of moisture in the form of melt, rain and groundwater. There are concrete, cobblestone, brick and sand. The blind area also performs an aesthetic and decorative function, in addition to its direct purpose.

Scheme of cement-sand screed.

They make a blind area after the final finishing of the facade and basement. Being quite wide, it often serves a combined function as a path around the house. This happens because its width largely depends not only on the wishes of the builders, but also on specific parameters and in any case is subject to certain unshakable rules. Firstly, the blind area should extend beyond the edge of the eaves plumb protrusion by at least 20-40 cm, which will allow the flowing water not to wash away the building. Secondly, since its width varies from 70 cm to one meter for planting and non-planting soil types, respectively, it is advisable to combine the blind area with a path around the house, making it up to one and a half meters wide, if space allows. Thirdly, in mandatory the blind area should have an inclination angle of 3% to 5% for those made of concrete and asphalt and from 6% to 10% for those paved with stone or brick. The fourth, necessary condition: the blind area should not reach the lower horizontal insulating layer by three to five centimeters.

Device

Scheme of construction of the blind area.

1. First, determine what type of blind area will be made: concrete, asphalt, block or paved (cobblestone or brick), since the desired level of inclination will depend on this.
2. The first thing to start with is to mark the width and select all the soil for this width up to hard, difficult-to-dig rocks. In any case, the earth is removed to a depth of at least thirty centimeters.
3. If there is already a clay substrate on the bottom, on which a layer of crushed stone (5x20, 20x40) is laid out five to eight centimeters and compacted, it is covered with geotextiles, an inexpensive insulating material, easily available in stores, and then they move on to the “sand” stage. If the soil remains soft when removing the soil, then first lay a 5-10 cm layer of clay on the very bottom and compact it well, since clay is an excellent natural waterproofing material. Next, as indicated above, preliminary crushed stone and waterproofing in the form of geotextiles.

To simplify and save on the minimum program, skip the “clay - crushed stone - geotextile” stages and go straight to the “sand” stage.

Technology of work execution

Scheme economical option blind areas.

1. The “sand” stage itself consists of pouring and compacting sand. The sand should be of equal caliber, crumbly, pour it in a layer of 10 centimeters and carefully compact it using a device such as a tamper. Then they water it with a hose and again compact it thoroughly, carry out this procedure up to 3-4 times, adding sand and leveling the specified level of inclination, for the precise determination of which it is good to use a level or plumb line.
2. It is very advisable to use in concrete blind areas drainage system, the choice of which modern technology offers for every taste and budget, which will allow you to avoid many troubles during further operation. Stormwater inlets are dug close to the drainpipes to the required depth and lightly concreted. Then, with ordinary shovels, trenches are dug for the pipes, which are simply inserted between each other and into storm water inlets. Drainage drains are installed along the perimeter so that water does not accumulate near the blind area and carry dirt. Since all plastic pipes and drainage systems are lightweight, they are easily cemented beforehand to prevent future displacement. It is important to maintain the digging angle according to the sloped surface, i.e. at the same angle as the blind area, fixing it using instruments, and not “by eye”. Everything is covered with sand again, watered again, compacted again, but now more carefully, manually, controlling the preservation of the given angle of the blind area and the evenness of the surface.
3. Next, formwork made of inch boards is installed around the perimeter, fixed evenly and accurately at the level and secured with blocks every one and a half meters. It is on the accuracy of this operation that future evenness will depend.
4. The next stage is isolation. Insulating and shock-absorbing material is laid on the concrete or cement base. This can be either polystyrene in the form of slabs or blocks, up to 50 cm high, or fine crushed stone in a layer up to 15 cm. Then polyurethane foam is sprayed or a gravel cushion is poured up to 20 cm. This is necessary both for water and thermal insulation, and in order to prevent swelling and destruction if the ground freezes.
5. After a perfectly level base has been prepared, the future blind area is “stitched” with reinforcement and “tied” to the building itself. To do this, holes are drilled at the base of the building’s foundation at a distance of 75 cm from each other and reinforcement is inserted across the entire width so that it does not subsequently move in relation to the building. Then knit a regular one reinforcement cage with a cell from 15 to 25 centimeters. The less reinforcement mesh, the less movement concrete will undergo during thermal expansion.
6. Before pouring concrete over the entire width, into the corners of the building and along the entire base, insert wooden spacers from an ordinary inch board at a distance of 2 meters to create so-called “deformation” paths or seams. It is also possible to make them from vinyl tapes or wood impregnated with special oils and bitumen. They serve to form a line of expansion of concrete when heated and prevent the formation of cracks and deformation changes in the surface, leading to subsequent filtration and destruction, which is especially important when pouring concrete not immediately, but in parts. This is convenient for perfect alignment surfaces after removing the formwork, if any. The layer of poured concrete is from 10 to 15 cm.
7. To create a more aesthetic appearance from above, the blind area can be covered with tiles, stone, etc. depending on the taste and capabilities of the customer.
8. As a decorative blind area, you can make it purely sandy. To do this, waterproofing is laid on a pre-prepared compacted base or crushed stone is poured. Then, when the waterproofing has already been completed, they put up the formwork and fill it all with sand; instead of concrete, such a blind area is poured special composition based on liquid glass, which you can buy and prepare yourself.

Materials and technical devices

The materials that will be required for construction and installation can be easily purchased at hardware stores. Variations depend on the taste, needs and capabilities of the builder.

Device diagram concrete blind area.

1. The concrete used is usually M100 or M200.
2. Crushed stone measuring 5x20 or 20x40 cm.
3. The sand should be smooth, crumbly, and of equal caliber.
4. To prepare concrete you will need M400 or M500 cement.
5. For concrete M100 you will need: cement 1 part - sand 2 parts - crushed stone 5 parts.
6. For concrete M500 you will need: cement 1 part - sand 2 parts - crushed stone 4 parts. Water is taken in a proportion of 0.5 parts.
7. Concrete slabs measuring 30x30 or 50x50 for non-filled blind areas.
8. Waterproofing. Geotextile is an insulating material for the first substrate under sand.

Polyurethane foam in the form of slabs or in the form of spraying, which is placed under concrete. Biologically neutral, resistant to putrefactive bacteria and fungi, does not corrode and has a warranty period of over thirty years. You can also use PVC and roofing felt.

1. Drainage systems.
2. Level.
3. Plumb.
4. Fittings.
5. Board for formwork.
6. Material for expansion joints: vinyl tapes, boards, etc.

When making a concrete blind area, it is very important to adhere to the standards, maintain a given angle of inclination and the specifics of pouring concrete. If concrete is poured in parts, it is necessary to allow one portion to harden well before pouring another.

The final hardening period is about 28 days, only after that you can safely walk on the blind area without fear of breaking the seal and causing damage.

The blind area around the house is simple, but a structural element that greatly prolongs the life of a building. Of two completely identical and built at the same time individual houses in an area with a flat, favorable climate, one, whose owners decided to save on the blind area, less than 20 years later demanded overhaul with a partial replacement of the foundation, and the second has already outlived its brother by more than twice and stands as if nothing had happened without signs of any violations in the structure.

At the same time, the blind area can be made completely with your own hands, incl. and around an existing building, without having any construction skills and thereby saving at least 150,000 rubles in the family budget, at current prices. This is for a house 10x12 m in plan and a blind area of ​​the simplest type. If the house is 12x15 m and the blind area is permanent, the savings from installing it yourself will be more than 250,000 rubles.

If now you immediately want to study the step-by-step instructions for laying a blind area, then please, here is a detailed video:

However, this is quite true, but only one specific example. Meanwhile, only in officially approved construction regulatory documents one can count at least 20 blind areas for different climatic conditions, the nature of the soil, the type of building, the availability of local resources of building materials, etc. And the notes to each diagram indicate when, under what conditions and how this design can be changed to simplify and reduce the cost.

That's why we Next, we’ll deal with what you can’t tell in the video. Namely: we will try to explain the various intricacies of blind areas so that you, the reader, understand the meaning of each of their elements, each production operation and can provide long life your home without unnecessary work and costs.

Why do you need a blind area?

A blind area in the general sense is a cornice attached to a wall, covering the horizontal angle between it and the ground or floor. Ordinary floor plinth- also a blind area, only internal. The operating principle of the blind area is simple: do not completely block the route unfavorable factors(moisture, dust, etc.), but take them to the side where they will not cause harm. The plug will eventually leak, but if nothing is leaking here, then nothing will leak. The obvious is easy to overlook, but the simple is difficult to invent: the blind area in construction appears only in Ancient Greece.

Foundation blind area - a low but wide cornice of the basement lying on the ground with a slope(see figure on the right), made of material that does not allow moisture to pass through and does not allow gases to pass through easily. The foundation is the basis of the building, and the blind area ensures its reliability and durability. Its significance for the foundation consists of 3 functions:

1. Protective – from precipitation;
2. Safety - as a stabilizer gas mode in the soil around the foundation;
3. Insulation – neutralizing the effect of heaving of freezing soil on the foundation of the house.

First. Due to thermal deformations and unequal shrinkage of the soil and foundation material, a gap inevitably arises between them. Through this gap, rain and melt water flow down the foundation, albeit in a very weak stream. The drop wears away the stone, and this flow washes away the foundation. And if the blind area takes it to the side, then water will naturally seep through the capillary passages of the soil. The water in the capillary can no longer wash away anything, because... its gravitational pressure is compensated by the force of surface tension.

Second. All soil inhabitants need oxygen. There are many among them who support “soft power”: plants – root aggressors and relatively large burrowing animals; both create passages in the soil through which water can again flow under the foundation and wash it away. At the same time, the soil around the house should not be allowed to suffocate; then chemically aggressive substances will form in it, which are not only smelly and harmful to health, but also destroy the foundation.

The blind area allows enough air to pass through so that there is enough useful soil fines, approximately the size of a nutritious grass root and an earthworm. And large “agents of influence”, finding that their oxygen is blocked from above, move away: there is enough land around, they can grow and dig somewhere else. Here the unreasonable creatures turn out to be smarter than other famous politicians.

Third. Frost heaving of the soil is dangerous primarily due to uneven lateral pressure on the foundation; it can lead to skewing of the building. The same house made of sand-lime brick, 10x12 m in plan and 6.5 m high from the base to the roof ridge, tilted as a whole by only 1 degree, begins to collapse 20 years after construction due to horizontal stresses in the structure. The blind area creates a layer of unfrozen, and therefore plastic, soil around the foundation, which evenly distributes lateral pressure.

Note: in the simplest case, the blind area acts as a snow coat on winter seedlings; here it does not release heat upward like the same cornice, only in the opposite direction. If the construction geology in a given location is unfavorable, then it may be necessary to insulate the blind area, see below.

Based on this, we can immediately draw important conclusions:

• The blind area should frame the house with a continuous strip: any gap will attract harmful factors, which will entail increased weakening of the foundation, which is especially dangerous because it is concentrated in one place.
• Cracks in the blind area are unacceptable for the same reason.
• The blind area cushion (see below) should not be buried more than 1/2 of the calculated freezing depth in a given area, otherwise it will turn into a rigid appendage of the foundation and lose all its functions; the blind area should “play” together with the ground without losing connection with the foundation. However, throughout the entire territory of the Russian Federation this condition is met without any additional measures.

How is the blind area arranged?

The construction of the blind area is also simple: it is a trench 20-50 cm deep, dug along the perimeter of the building close to the foundation. A thermal gap (expansion joint) is immediately made between the blind area and the foundation; To do this, it is covered with a rubber-bitumen compound and then with 2 layers of roofing material, the lower ends of which are bent into the trench by 50-70 cm.

Note: if the blind area is insulated, then the thermal break is superimposed on the insulation of the base/foundation.

Then the trench is lined with waterproofing made of polypropylene film; it gives just the right gas permeability. A cushion of sand and crushed stone is poured into this trench; in most cases - in a cage made of geotextile (road mesh), which prevents the migration of the cushion material into the ground, but does not prevent the outflow of moisture from it to the sides. Modern technologies Construction of blind areas involves laying multi-layer cushions. Alternating layers of sand and crushed stone make the blind area much simpler and cheaper, while at the same time increasing its efficiency.

The cushion for a monolithic covering is poured into the formwork, for a slab covering it is limited from the outside by a curb stone, and for a soft covering it is placed either in the curb, or just like that. According to previous ideas, it is the covering that is the actual blind area, and the pillow only supports it. But multilayer cushions in geotextile with propylene insulation are able to take on all the functions of the blind area, so the coverings of modern blind areas can only be decorative and ergonomic. In general, blind areas are divided into 3 types:

1. Rigid - monolithic made of concrete, asphalt and cement-filled crushed stone with iron-plated surfaces;
2. Semi-rigid - with a multi-layer cushion and flooring made of paving slabs, cobblestones, porcelain stoneware, reinforced concrete slabs with an additional cushion;
3. Soft - bulk made of crushed stone on a multi-layer cushion.

When is what kind of blind area needed?

All types of blind areas cope well with their responsibilities, but for different periods. The durability of monolithic ones is almost equal to the service life of the building, but they are labor-intensive and expensive. This also applies to asphalt: its binder – tar – is modern conditions remains profitable only in large-scale road construction. Cement self-leveling coating is inexpensive and relatively labor-intensive, but is applicable only on stable soils; on heaving soils (wet loams, etc.) it is strictly not recommended. In addition, all hard coatings are not decorative.

Note: a case when you need to unconditionally choose a hard covering - an insulated blind area. It is useless to insulate semi-rigid and soft blind areas. And when you need to make a blind area with insulation, let's look further.

Soft covering is very cheap and easy to make. But it lasts no more than 5-7 years, but on any soil in any climate and replacing it is elementary, as far as this concept is generally applicable to construction work. It is optimal as a temporary one if there is a shortage of funds or you are simply tired of construction. We'll sort out the finances, we'll raise our hands again, we'll finish the job thoroughly, but for now it will serve just fine.

In general, Taking into account modern construction achievements, preference should be given to semi-rigid blind areas. Their service life is up to 20-25 years in most of the Russian Federation, except for the permafrost zone, and in terms of labor intensity, maintainability and the possibility of complete replacement, they are almost equivalent to soft ones. The cost depends on the coating material; work as expected on any soil.

The decorative qualities of semi-rigid blind areas are also determined by the coating material, for example. the blind area from (we will consider it in more detail later) from the point of view of a landscape designer is no different from garden path. Nothing is an exaggeration. The partial water permeability of the slab blind areas at the seams between the slabs makes it possible to dispense with internal slopes in the multilayer cushion, and leave the flooring horizontal, i.e. It will be possible to walk on it even in icy conditions.

Next we will look at how to properly make a blind area from the already mentioned paving slabs; The technology for constructing cobblestones differs from it only in the coating material. Along the way, we’ll deal with soft crushed stone and self-leveling cement, because The pillows needed for them are the same as for slab ones. Let us dwell in more detail on the concrete blind area as the most durable and the only one suitable for insulation. And we will touch on specific issues: the width of the blind area, its slope, insulation, drainage and the subject of discussion among builders - the connection between the blind area and the base.

Tile blind area

Overall true the diagram of a slab blind area with internal slopes has been circulating on the RuNet for a long time, but along with it there are also inaccuracies. Since the original information is advertising and commercial, perhaps the authors protected their know-how in this way. Let's try to supplement the source material until it is suitable for use. The correct blind area from paving slabs is made according to the diagram in the figure:

First, pay attention to the outer bend of the waterproofing up to the crushed stone. Its purpose is to prevent the first layer of sand from spreading. And drainage of a thin (3-5 cm) layer of sand will be ensured through the crushed stone layer overlying it.

Secondly, the recommended total cushion thickness of 30 cm is only valid if the blind area lies entirely in humus. If the humus layer is thinner, then the drained layers should not be buried in dense soil; The layer of crumpled clay is in any case 15-20 cm. What if there is less than 20 cm of humus or no humus at all? Install drains, see fig. on right. Prefabricated gutters are placed on the ground 1-2 m from the lowest corners along the overall slope. In general, drains are desirable for slab blind areas on any soil, and it is better to drain the collections into a storm drain (storm drain) or drainage well, if there is one.

Third, the thickness of the crushed stone layer is 3 times the thickness of the first sand layer, and the upper sand layer is 2 of them. For the blind area to function properly, the proportions must be maintained, but the thickness of the lower sand layer must be at least 3 cm. The thickness of the overlying layers is calculated along the wall and increases outward in accordance with the slope.

Finally, the slopes. They should decrease slightly from bottom to top. IN in this case the slope of the clay preparation outward is 0.08-0.12 (8-12 cm/m), the lower crushed stone is 0.05-0.07, the upper crushed stone is 0.03-0.04. The top of the tile cushion is horizontal.

Soft and cement

The design of a soft crushed stone blind area is even simpler, see fig. The conditions for penetration into humus, slopes and the “trough” of waterproofing are the same, and the thickness of the crushed stone layer is equal to the total thickness of the crushed stone and top sand with tiles in the previous case.

The cement-filled blind area is done in the same way, but in formwork, and 2-3 cm less crushed stone is placed, see fig. below. Then the top is filled with cement-sand mortar no worse than M200; for its proportions and method of preparation, see the section on concrete blind area.

When the solution has set, but is still wet (watch out, don’t miss the moment!) to increase its resistance to abrasion, the pouring surface is reinforced: sprinkled with an even layer of dry cement from M400 thin layer, just enough to cover the filling, and rub it thoroughly with a politer.

Then the blind area is covered dark film(the iron surface ripens better without light) and periodically once a day or two, lifting the film, spray it with water. As a sprinkler regular will do broom. The period of aging until suitability for use is from 20 days. The outside temperature for the period of work is not lower than +12 degrees.

Note: in the blind areas already described and in all other blind areas that require clay preparation, the clay should be thicker. It works here more as a heat insulator, and fatty clay has less moisture absorption.

Once and for all!

What advantages and disadvantages does a monolithic concrete blind area have, are stated above. In addition, it requires careful implementation. It must be said that a blind area made of ready-made reinforced concrete slabs does not fully possess the qualities of a monolithic one; it is the same slab blind area, only more expensive and heavier. It is used more in industrial construction when there is a stock of reinforced concrete products or a source of their supply.

A summary diagram of a monolithic concrete blind area is shown in Fig. below. It only requires some explanation. Firstly, it is installed under the fill after laying the waterproofing. Its outer bend upwards, as in a multi-layer pillow, is not needed here. However, it is highly advisable to place geotextiles on the insulation before installing compensators (see below) and laying reinforcement around the perimeter of the formwork so that the sand does not spread later. You don’t have to bring the textile tape all the way to the wall, but put it on the formwork up to its edge, and at least press it there with pushpins so that the mesh doesn’t slide down during further work.

Second, after filling the cushion, but before laying the reinforcement, the formwork must be divided into sections using thermal deformation compensators; without them it's complete concrete tape will soon crack. Maximum length sections - 3 m, but expansion joints, in addition, must be installed between all pairs of adjacent and external corners of the building, see fig. That is, each section of the blind area should be a convex geometric figure in plan, without corners protruding into its contour.

Compensators are made from wooden planks 15-30 mm thick. Since they will not remain in the blind area forever, the workpieces must be thoroughly soaked, twice, with hot bitumen. It’s better not to soak it, but to scald it: boil it in bitumen, brought almost to a boil, for 10-20 minutes, turning it all the time. Compensators are installed immediately with the required slope - using them, like beacons, using a long rule or, if you have some construction experience, a half-ter, the filling surface will be formed.

Note: If you have the opportunity to get hold of to treat wood with creosote, don’t! Creosote is a powerful poison and carcinogen; its use is steadily declining in industry, where special installations can be used to protect personnel.

Third is the pouring solution. The final grade of reinforced concrete must be at least M200, i.e. cement is needed from M400. But this is not enough, you still need to accurately follow the composition recipe. You can’t get by with bulk parts “by the bucket”, or even by eye, the tape will crack after some time, and repairing a monolithic blind area is more difficult than laying a new one. Components should only be measured by weight! The pouring of a monolithic concrete blind area is carried out with a solution of the following composition, calculated per cubic meter of finished material:

• Cement M400-M600 – 280 kg.
• Crushed stone – 1400 kg.
• Construction sand, fraction 0.2-0.35 mm – 840 kg.
• Technically pure water – 190 l.

The solution, as we see, turns out to be very dry, even drier than for floor screed. This is necessary because fresh pouring should maintain the specified slope until it hardens. Pouring is done section by section, in fairly large portions of the solution, so you shouldn’t rely on a handy tub and a hammer drill with a mixer; you need a concrete mixer. Mixing is done in the following order:

1. Weigh out the portions of components required for the next section.
2. Dry cement is thoroughly mixed with at least 20-25 revolutions of the mixer hopper; this is necessary to break up its clots and lumps.
3. Sand is introduced in 3-5 doses, mixing each dose with 5-6 revolutions of the hopper.
4. Crushed stone is introduced in the same way.
5. Add water in a gentle stream over 3-5 turns of the hopper.
6. Add another 10-15 revolutions of the hopper.

The poured section is compacted with a vibrating plank, trying not to touch the reinforcement with the working part in order to avoid the formation of cavities with cement laitance, which greatly reduce the strength and durability of the blind area. Then the slope is derived using compensators, like beacons. After the solution has set, it is advisable to iron it, as for a cement-filled blind area, and just like it, the monolithic one is covered with a dark film and periodically sprinkled with water. It is forbidden to cover with a damp cloth, such as, for example, a foundation! The solution on top will get wet, weaken and the entire blind area will crumble!

Do or pay?

Now you know enough to decide what kind of blind area you need. Further material will help you understand the details, and to decide whether to take on the work yourself or order it from builders, we inform you: the price of work alone on constructing a blind area in Central Russia ranges from 2000-2500 rubles/sq. m for soft crushed stone up to 3300-4200 rub./sq. m for concrete monolithic. We emphasize: this is only work, the purchase of materials with delivery is the owner’s, so there is no need to count on wholesale discounts.

This is due to the fact that a normal customer, a normal designer and normal builders make the blind area at the same time as the entire structure. Ready house without a blind area, there is a gap, but how much do builders like to complete gaps and whether such work is profitable for them, you can ask any of them. Perhaps expand your knowledge of Russian, in parts not reflected in general-purpose dictionaries.

How can you save money?

But how to reduce the cost of a homemade blind area? To determine the scope of work, you need to know its width; the length will be given by the perimeter of the building, and the depth will be given by the selected scheme. According to SNiP, the blind area must extend at least 20 cm beyond the roof overhang, including gutters, but not narrower than 70 cm.

That is, we climb onto the roof with a plumb line and beat its outline along the ground. Then we measure along the entire length; if somewhere up to 0.7 m is missing, add as much as needed. Then we measure the resulting perimeter of the blind area; We now have a complete set of data to calculate the volume of materials and labor purchased.

Note: To avoid acidification of the soil, a blind area width of more than 1.5 m at a length of more than 2 m is undesirable. If this happens somewhere, we make the actual blind area 20 cm from the edge of the roof, and the rest will need to be paved with paving slabs on a simple sand cushion, like a path. You can make a playground in this place for children or for relaxation, with a barbecue, or somehow solve the issue based on landscape design methods.

Insulation and drainage

The next circumstance that can significantly increase the cost and complicate the blind area and still turn to professionals is its insulation. However, it will only be of any use if the blind area is monolithic, expensive and complex. Taking into account the fact that insulation most often has to be combined with drainage, the cost of work here can be a small fraction of that of materials. But is insulation necessary at all? And when, if so? Insulation of the blind area is necessary in the following cases:

• The house has a heated basement or ground floor.
• The house was built on heaving soil: clay or loam with high moisture absorption.
• The winter is unstable, with prolonged thaws, and the house stands on dusty soil with high moisture permeability; these are sandy, loess and alluvial soils.
• The freezing depth can reach that calculated according to SNiP (see below) more often than once every 3 years or once for any period of time for more than 2 months.

What and how to insulate?

Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) and polyurethane foam are suitable for insulating blind areas. The latter, at first glance, is tempting with its cheapness, but it only seems so. Below we will deal with foam, but for now we will deal with EPS.

If the need for insulation is caused only by point 1, and the winter in a given area is consistently not very severe and the soil under the building is stable, the blind area should be insulated according to the diagram on the left in Fig. The principle is clear from there: the insulated blind area pushes the zero isotherm away from the house, which ensures its durability, as described above, but already in difficult conditions operation.

Designations on the diagrams:

1. reinforced concrete monolith;
2. Eps boards;
3. waterproofing;
4. sand cushion;
5. stone border;
6. geotextile drainage pipe clip filled with crushed stone;
7. drainage pipe.

The simplified (left) diagram differs from the traditional ones, which we will talk about in more detail. First, how much EPS should I put under the blind area? This material is not very cheap, and every extra centimeter of its thickness means in this case an overspending of about 10,000 rubles. and higher.

Here it is appropriate to use the experience of traveling construction crews, that is, shabashniks. They, by the way, are not at all such grabbers and scammers as they signed with the Soviet “Crocodile”. If the wolf is fed by his legs, then the coven, like a banker, is his reputation. Which consists not only of the speed and quality of work, but also of the savings on materials that are visible to the owner, because coven workers do not carry them with them.

So, the shabashniks have long ago developed an empirical formula to calculate the minimum permissible thickness of EPS under a blind area, namely: take the estimated freezing depth under the house in centimeters, subtract from it the width of the blind area, also in centimeters, and multiply the resulting value by 0.75, this and there will be the minimum required thickness of EPS in millimeters. Let’s say freezing is 1.8 m or 180 cm; The width of the blind area is 1 m, then you need a layer of EPS from 60 mm. More won’t hurt, as long as the customer forks up.

The freezing depth can be accurately calculated according to SNiP 2.02.01-83 “Foundations of buildings and structures”, with annexes and design manuals, and according to SNiP 23-01-99 “Building climatology”. In recent years, houses are often built on heaving soils, because... plots for development on them are cheap and there are a lot of them left from Soviet times, when they tried not to build “on the pukka”. In this case, the map in Fig. will help you decide on insulation, and for certain specific points of the Russian Federation - table. lower, because Calculation according to SNiP, although simple, is painstaking and requires taking into account many factors.

City	M	√M	Soil freezing depth according to SNiP, m
			loams and clays	fine sand, sandy loam	coarse sand, gravelly
Arkhangelsk	46,1	6,79	1,56	1,90	2,04
Vologda	38,5	6,20	1,43	1,74	1,86
Ekaterinburg	46,3	6,80	1,57	1,91	2,04
Kazan	38,9	6,24	1,43	1,75	1,87
Kursk	21,3	4,62	1,06	1,29	1,38
Moscow	22,9	4,79	1,10	1,34	1,44
Nizhny Novgorod	39,6	6,29	1,45	1,76	1,89
Novosibirsk	63,3	7,96	1,83	2,23	2,39
Eagle	23,0	4,80	1,10	1,34	1,44
Permian	47,6	6,90	1,59	1,93	2,07
Pskov	17,9	4,23	0,97	1,18	1,27
Rostov-on-Don	8,2	2,86	0,66	0,80	0,86
Ryazan	34,9	5,91	1,36	1,65	1,77
Samara	44,9	6,70	1,54	1,88	2,01
Saint Petersburg	18,3	4,28	0,98	1,20	1,28
Saratov	26,6	5,16	1,19	1,44	1,55
Surgut	93,3	9,66	2,22	2,70	2,90
Tyumen	56,5	7,52	1,73	2,10	2,25
Chelyabinsk	56,6	7,52	1,73	2,11	2,26
Yaroslavl	38,5	6,20	1,43	1,74	1,86

Note: within the same region, the depth of freezing can vary significantly depending not only on the soil, but also on the presence of communications in it, etc. If you want to achieve maximum savings, you need to calculate exactly according to SNiP and geological data directly under the house.

On the left diagram of Fig. at the beginning of the section, another crazy trick is visible: the vertical EPPS base slab (its thickness is calculated in the usual way based on the heat loss of the building) is not brought down to the freezing depth, but breaks off at the lower edge of the insulation of the blind area. The fact is that an insulated blind area reduces heat loss through the bare root of the foundation, and you won’t have to groan over bills for fuel or electricity for heating. The existing methods for calculating heat loss do not take this circumstance into account. But a weak additional heat flow from the side, combined with an upward geothermal flow (our planet has a positive heat balance, otherwise life on it would be impossible) pushes the zero isotherm even further. This is a case where harm turns to good.

When is drainage needed?

If, under the operating conditions of the building, at least one of paragraphs is present. 2-4, the blind area already needs to be drained from above. As shown in the right diagram of Fig. with diagrams. Drainage pipe diameter 110-200 mm; slope - within 0.03-0.1; You can drain the drain into a storm drain.

Note: If you come across a description somewhere of how to replace a special drainage pipe with a homemade one made from a sewer pipe, try to find the author and let him show where one will last at least a year without falling into complete disrepair.

How to lay EPS?

The actual insulation of the EPS blind area is not difficult: the slabs are simply placed on a sand cushion before laying the reinforcement, see fig. There is only one nuance here that can increase the efficiency of insulation: it is made of two layers of half-thickness slabs, and approximately half of the lower slabs are cut in half lengthwise and the halves are laid along the edges of the trench. This will result in a displacement of the seams along and across, which will negate thermal bridges.

What about foam?

Now let's see why it is undesirable to insulate yourself with cheap and technologically advanced foam. But because it is generally impenetrable, neither to moisture nor to gas. Therefore, when insulating with foam, in any case, a drainage depth of approximately 1 m is required, see fig. below.

Firstly, you can’t get by with open gutters here; without a filter grid on them, the drainage will quickly become clogged. Special gutters (on the right in the figure) are roads. Secondly, you can’t bring a deep drain into a storm drain; you need to build a prefabricated well with pumping. As a result, a seemingly cheap blind area becomes much more expensive.

When things fall apart

The worst case is when the house is located in a drainless lowland, in a place with high groundwater or prone to flooding. What is needed here is full-fledged lower drainage of the entire building, and this is such a topic that the blind area, as they say, rests. Just look at the figure, and this is only a summary diagram of the drainage of a house, without a collector network, a well and pumping. As for the blind area specifically, in this case it is not recommended to insulate it at all: general drainage will not allow the soil to swell.

When to finish the base?

Usually it is recommended to do the blind area at the very last resort, after finishing the base. But these tips go back to the times of Khrushchev-Brezhnev mass construction, when plinths were, at best, plastered. And now, for example, how to make a waterproof thermal joint between the blind area and the base, trimmed with relief stone or base siding?

Taking into account the use of modern finishing materials the base of the building should be finished after installing the blind area. It won't get worse, it will only get better. Look at fig. In the place marked with a red dotted circle, above the thermal seam, the finishing of the base forms a small cornice - a teardrop. Now only a tropical hurricane can drive moisture into the seam.

What slope is needed?

It remains to deal with the slope of the blind area. For some reason in RuNet they recommend it at 10-15 degrees and even refer to SNiPs. Anyone except builders can know where these SNiPs exist. And it is clear that the authors of these tips themselves did not walk on such blind areas in slush or ice. And in those SNiPs according to which they actually build, it is recommended to maintain the slope of the blind area within 0.03-0.1. What will happen (remember about sines-arcsines?) 1.72-5.74 degrees.

About the curb

A proper blind area does not need a border. But it can be useful if there is a cultivated plants– root aggressors: raspberry, blackberry, poplar, plane tree, etc. of the same kind. Then the cushion under the lock of the curb stone is made approximately a spade bayonet deeper than the standard one and is made of sand in half with broken glass. Continuing the analogy with “soft power”, agents of influence now immediately stumble upon a well-trained and organized counterparty, tough, firm and prickly.

Why do you need a blind area around the house? Can you make it yourself? The blind area, first of all, serves as a kind of protection along with decorative function. It is installed after finishing the laying of the walls, when the time comes for exterior finishing. It protects the foundation from precipitation or its consequences. The blind area looks like a wide strip, hermetically adjacent to the outer part of the foundation, encircling the house on all sides. It is this adjacent area that is exposed to the greatest amount of precipitation that flows from the roof or walls of the building, so it must be reliable, waterproof, and strong.

In addition to its direct purpose, the blind area “works” as insulation for the basement of the building.

As for the width of this protective strip, the rule “the more, the better” applies here. According to SNiP, the minimum width of the blind area should be at least 80 cm, while the maximum can be any - at the discretion of the owner of the house.

There are certain requirements when arranging this architectural element:

1. The width of the strip should not be equal to the level of the roof overhang, and it cannot be narrower than its edge.
2. The blind area around the house must be continuous.
3. Protection of the building foundation depends on the width of the strip.
4. Installation is carried out with a slope from the house of at least 1.5°.

It should be wide enough so that you can easily walk on it without touching the walls. The most optimal width is 1 meter.

Construction of a blind area around the house

A blind area of ​​any type consists of two layers - underlying and waterproof. The bottom layer is usually gravel, crushed stone or sand, and the top layer can be made of concrete, natural stone, paving slabs, or asphalt.

The optimal slope angle from the house is 3-5°; if the building stands on ordinary soil, then the width of the blind area should be approximately 20-30 cm larger than the cornice. If your home is built on subsiding or marshy soil, then the width should be at least 90-110 cm.

It is worth mentioning that some types of foundations (for example, screw and pile) do not need a blind area at all. They require installation protective coating only in places where water drains from the roof.

If the house is located on heaving soil, then it is better to make a blind area with insulation - this is necessary so that the protection does not allow moisture to pass through. In winter, water freezes and expands the soil, so polystyrene foam placed in the blind area can prevent this factor. Extruded polystyrene foam not only does not allow water to pass through, but is also characterized by high thermal insulation qualities.

Expanded polystyrene is placed between the layers of the blind area (a crushed stone or gravel cushion is located below), it is best to pour concrete on top or lay tiles or cobblestones. This method of insulation is very effective and shows good results.

Let's consider the types of blind areas around the house:

1. The simplest, but almost never used material for constructing a protective strip is clay. It is an excellent hydraulic lock for the foundation of a house. Nowadays, the use of clay is no longer relevant, since new modern materials confidently occupy a leading position in the construction market.
2. A concrete protective strip is the most common option for arranging foundation protection. It is quickly installed, has a low cost for the price of the building materials used, has a long service life, and is resistant to natural factors.
3. The tile blind area around the house is placed on a layer of sand. The tile is convenient because it can be matched to appearance buildings or decorative features summer cottage plot. This type of protective strip around the house is durable and easy to install.
4. Natural stone laid around the house looks very beautiful and has a long service life, but requires patience and care when installing.
5. The asphalt coating of the protective strip is used infrequently, due to the lack of decorativeness and a specific odor when heated sun rays and high cost.
6. A waterproof protective strip is made only if there is a well-installed drainage system. In this case, much attention is paid to the installation of drains from the roof so that moisture is removed at a considerable distance from the foundation of the building. Such protection around the house is more decorative than practical.
7. One of the most expensive types of blind area is made of granite. Respectable appearance, quality, durability are the main criteria for this method of protection.

It will be ideal if a drainage system is installed along the outside of the entire perimeter of the protective strip around the house (it does not have to be very deep). This technique will maximally protect the foundation from contact with moisture.

How to make a blind area with your own hands around the house?

As mentioned above, the blind area consists of two structural layers - underlying and covering. The underlying layer provides a smooth, dense base for laying subsequent materials. The role of “bedding” is sand, clay, and fine crushed stone. The thickness of the bedding layer depends on what material the protective strip will be covered with.

The coating fulfills its main purpose - protection from water, and it does not matter what material it is made from.

As an example, consider the stage-by-stage construction of a concrete blind area:

1. Initially, the future protective strip is marked; for its arrangement, we will take a width of 1 meter as a basis.
2. Along the entire perimeter of the house (in accordance with the markings) we remove a layer of soil (20-30 cm) and compact the base.
   
3. If there are plants under the layer of removed soil, their roots can be treated with herbicides so that they do not subsequently begin to make their way through the coating.
4. We make removable formwork from the boards.
5. We lay a thin layer of clay on the compacted soil, and on top of it a sandy layer (about 10 cm). Clay and sand should be thoroughly compacted after installation. In the immediate vicinity of the foundation, sand is compacted especially carefully.
6. We spill the sand layer with water, but not very much, since there is clay below.
7. We lay the crushed stone in a thin layer, approximately 6-8 cm.
   
8. In order for the future protective strip around the house to be strong and withstand compression and tension loads, it must be reinforced. A reinforcement mesh with a pitch of 10 cm is suitable for this purpose.
   
9. In the place where the blind area is adjacent to the base, you need to make an expansion joint, sometimes called a temperature or deformation joint. This seam provides a kind of protection during soil subsidence. It has a width of 1-2 cm. Thus, this gap between the base and the blind area is filled with a sand-gravel mixture or roofing felt; it can also be filled with resin or foamed polyethylene (rope), sealant. It is mandatory to install expansion joints in all corners of the house.
10. How to fill a blind area at home? The construction of expansion joints is simply necessary when arranging the correct protective strip around the house. When pouring concrete, thin layers should be installed every 2 or 3 meters. wooden boards, placed edge-on. For these purposes, conventional wooden slats, they must be laid so that the top surface coincides with the surface level of the concrete mass and always taking into account the slope! Wooden elements can be pre-treated with anti-rotting agents.
    
11. What kind of concrete is needed for the blind area around the house? The concrete used to create it should not be inferior to its road counterpart in terms of frost-resistant characteristics. Brand M250 or M300 is perfect; it is mixed with sand, fine gravel, and water until a homogeneous mass is obtained. This mass is laid on top of the reinforcing mesh and wooden ribs, compacted (by vibration or bayonet) and leveled using a rule.
    
12. The concrete blind area around the house, made with your own hands, will become as strong as possible if you use the ironing method immediately after pouring. This construction technique has two methods - dry and wet. With the dry method, cement is sprinkled onto a fresh, leveled layer of concrete. It is sifted on a fine sieve. By tapping on this sieve, it is evenly distributed in a thin layer (2-3 mm) over the entire surface of the protective layer. After these manipulations, this layer is carefully compacted using a plaster spatula. Dry cement draws moisture from wet concrete and, when hardened, forms additional reinforcing armor. At wet method ironing, sifted cement is mixed with water to a dough-like consistency, applied to the dried concrete layer using a plaster spatula. The thickness of such protection is 2-3 mm. Sometimes ceresite or liquid glass is added to such a solution, but in any case, the strength of the protective layer depends on the quality of compaction and smoothing.
13. At the final stage, the concrete is covered with a wet cloth and periodically moistened. This protects the concrete layer from drying out until it finally hardens. After 7-10 days, your concrete blind area will be ready.

You can take an easier route - save time. This method is now very popular, as it has good protective qualities and gives the house strip an attractive appearance.

To do this, after removing the soil layer, sand is poured into the bottom of the trench and poured from above liquid glass mixed with hardener. After hardening, an attractive monolithic surface is obtained, which has high moisture-resistant characteristics.

How to repair a crack in the blind area of ​​a house?

Cracks or damage to concrete surface may also appear due to certain circumstances. Shallow cracks can be filled liquid solution cement, larger ones are first cut down along the entire length of the damage, cleaned of debris and dust. After cleaning, the crack is filled with a mixture of bitumen, asbestos and sand.

Large damage can also be filled with fresh concrete after priming it. Next, the “patch” is cared for in the same way as a regular screed - the surface is moistened until the concrete hardens completely.

If the damage is serious, then additional reinforcement of the cracks is carried out and their subsequent filling sand-cement mixture with the addition of crushed stone. After complete hardening, the patches are treated with a primer.

Soft blind area around the house

The soft blind area does not have a hard top covering; instead, crushed stone of various colors is filled in, or soil with grass is generally used. Soft blind area There is no risk of soil deformation due to freezing and subsequent thawing. When laying such a protective strip, it is not necessary to observe the slope angle. If a layer of expanded polystyrene is provided at the base of the soft covering, it will additionally help reduce the depth of soil freezing in the foundation area.

The blind area around the house made of crushed stone is done like this:

1. A layer of soil is removed, compacted, then a layer of clay (10 cm) is laid over the entire area of ​​the resulting trench. To avoid subsequent swelling, the clay must be absolutely clean, that is, free of sand.
2. The clay is also compacted and placed on top of it (with a reserve). waterproofing film. If circumstances are such that the blind area moves away from the foundation, then the supply of film will be able to compensate for the resulting shortage of material. The film is fixed by overlapping directly onto the foundation.
3. Sand is poured over the waterproofing.
4. The next stage is the laying of geotextiles over the entire area of ​​the future blind area.
5. Crushed stone is poured onto geotextiles. The embankment layer can be from 10 to 15 cm.
6. Geotextiles are re-laid, onto which decorative crushed stone is poured.

Thus, any blind area around the house, made with your own hands, will help to significantly increase the service life of your home and add additional aesthetics and attractiveness.

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After completing the construction of the house, it is mandatory to install a blind area. It will protect the foundation from soaking and cracking, and will also significantly extend the life of the building. The design is quite simple and therefore the blind area can be made with your own hands - step-by-step instruction and recommendations will help you go through all stages of installation without errors.

Appearance of the blind area

The structure of the blind area around the house is quite simple and consists of two main elements: a substrate and a covering. The main role of the substrate is to create a smooth and durable base for laying the protective coating. Typically, the substrate is two layers of clay or sand and crushed stone. The good thing about using clay is that it can perform a waterproofing function and not allow moisture to pass through, but to do this it will need to be laid well and ensure a uniform layer. Sand is easier to use, as it can easily smooth out any unevenness in the soil surface.

Any coating can be used suitable materials, which have the following properties:

• Have sufficient strength to withstand expected mechanical loads.
• They have high-quality waterproofing properties.
• Resistant to sudden temperature changes.
• Thanks to the smooth surface, they are able to efficiently remove moisture from the foundation.

Therefore, concrete, asphalt, stone or tile coverings are mainly used for blind areas.

Related article:

Photo of the blind area around the house: main types of structures

When designing photos, blind areas around houses will greatly simplify their selection. There are these types of structures:

• Tough. They are structures based on hard coatings that, under load, retain their shape without deformation. Usually made of concrete or asphalt. Their service life is usually compared with the duration of operation of the building. In terms of installation cost, rigid structures will be more expensive than others, as they require mandatory insulation and waterproofing. Requires medium or high density soil for installation.

• Soft. They are distinguished by simple installation technology and minimal operating requirements. In fact, it consists of several layers of bulk materials. Requires minimal cost and physical effort to install. The service life is on average 5-7 years. They can be laid on any type of soil, including loose ones. They are used mainly for temporary purposes, since their appearance is not entirely aesthetic and is unlikely to fit into the design of the building facade.

• Semi-rigid. They represent a compromise between hard and soft structures in terms of financial and physical costs. The outer layer is usually laid with tiles, stone or reinforced concrete slabs. The service life can be up to several decades. They have excellent maintainability, since part of the structure can be replaced or rearranged without any problems. However, they are limited for use in areas with high groundwater, on soils with great depth freezing and on heaving soils. The cost of installation work will be cheaper than hard work, but the highest quality aesthetic appearance will be achieved.

Determining the parameters of the blind area

In order to understand how to properly make blind areas around houses, you need to correctly select its technical parameters. One of them is width. It is determined by the current building codes and rules that say that it must be 20 cm longer than the most protruding part of the roof slope. Usually this size is measured from the gutters. The width of the blind area around the house is determined based on the selected type of material, the density of the soil on the site and the magnitude of the expected variable and static loads. In most cases, the width of the structure for private houses is made at least 1 m.

Another parameter is the degree to which the structure is buried in the ground. It is mainly influenced by the level of soil freezing. In regions where there is a significant decrease in air temperature, the structure is significantly affected by soil properties such as heaving, which can damage it literally within a year without the possibility of recovery. Therefore, the filling level must provide sufficient strength so that it effectively resists heaving and does not deform. Minimum depth is at least 10 cm, including a layer of sand and crushed stone cushion. If constant loads are expected, it is recommended to increase the thickness to 15-20 cm.

Helpful information! Where the porch adjoins the house there is no particular need to lay a blind area, since the main foundation in this case will be protected. However, if a monolithic or brick porch is built, then it is recommended to protect it too, since the weight per unit area is quite large and the likelihood of subsidence is high.

For high-quality sediment removal, the surface must have a certain slope. The magnitude of the angle to the horizontal, on the one hand, is influenced by the amount of precipitation in a particular region, and on the other hand, by the ease of use of the structure as a pedestrian path or for other purposes. A value of 2-3° is considered optimal.

In order to prevent flooding of the structure, it is recommended to make it 5 cm higher from the ground surface. If there are trees or bushes near the house, you will need to uproot them to a distance of approximately 1.5 m from the house.

Attention! You can protect the structure from destruction by the roots of trees or any plants by installing a border.

Preparatory work

Preparation for installation is carried out in several stages:

• Marking the territory.
• Carrying out earthworks.
• Laying the underlying layer.

We mark out the area for installation of the blind area

Using pegs around the perimeter of the house it is necessary to mark. To do this, use a tape measure to measure a distance of 1 m from the walls and drive wooden pegs into the corners to a depth of 0.5 m so that it is possible to carry out excavation work without moving them from their place. We pull a rope on them.

Helpful information! If the building has a large area, it is recommended to install additional pegs along the walls every 2.5-3 m.

Excavation stage

Using a shovel, you need to dig a trench according to the markings. The depth is determined by the type of structure chosen, climatic conditions and soil composition. The layer should be removed evenly with a slope of 2-3° from the building. This is quite easy to do by setting the digging depth along the building and along the marking line.

Since the main foundation and the design of the blind area will have different coefficients thermal expansion, then it is recommended to create a thermal gap between them of 1-2 mm. To do this, after stopping digging, you need to lay a damping layer based on polyurethane tape along the wall.

The bottom of the trench should be carefully compacted with a special tool, which is a steel rod with a flat sheet welded on the lower end. If such a device is not at hand, then you can use a regular log.

Laying a pillow under the blind area

It is necessary to lay waterproofing at the bottom of the prepared trench and fill it with a layer of sand 10-20 cm thick, depending on the type of structure and the depth of the trench, with careful compaction and leveling. For ease of work, it is recommended to spill the layer generously with water in order to compact it as much as possible. However, before laying the outer layer, you will need to wait until the pillow dries.

Important! If construction is carried out in an area with high groundwater, a drainage system will need to be installed. It is a pipe with holes in the upper part, which is located around the perimeter of the building and is connected to the storm sewer system.

On top of the sand it is necessary to pour gravel with a fraction size of up to 5 cm, and upper layer level with crushed stone with a grain size of up to 5 mm. This will save building material on the outer layer due to the absence of the need to fill the pores formed.

Helpful information! Crushed stone can be replaced by other types of stone or even broken bricks. The most important thing is to use a homogeneous material so that areas with different strength characteristics are not created.

How to properly make a blind area around the house?

The installation process depends on the type of structure and the selected material. For example, when laying soft design no additional work will be required, but when installing rigidly, you will need to lay several waterproofing layers. How to carry out installation correctly will be described in the following subsections.

Installation of a rigid blind area

It is recommended to install a rigid structure on a heat- and waterproofing layer, which will significantly extend the life of the structure. For these purposes, it is recommended to use thermal insulation materials that are highly resistant to moisture and have increased strength under significant mechanical loads. An example would be expanded polystyrene or foam boards.

Attention! Before laying, it is necessary to install the formwork, for which it is recommended to use boards lined with a waterproofing film on the inside. This solution will prevent the absorption of moisture from the subsequently poured concrete solution and it will be able to gain design strength. Otherwise, the dehydrated parts will become brittle and the service life will be significantly reduced.

To understand the technology of pouring a blind area around a concrete house, how to make formwork and what sequence of actions to follow, you need to read the step-by-step instructions. It looks like this:

• We install the first slab from the corner of the building along the wall, checking the correct position using a building level.
• We fix the insulation onto a suitable type of fastening, pressing it tightly against the wall.
• We install the next one butt to the first plate with a minimum gap.
• We secure the slab and carefully seal the joint with construction foam.
• Similarly, we lay the entire perimeter of the walls with heat-insulating material.

Attention! If the blind area is installed in the northern regions, then it is recommended to lay two layers of insulation with ligation of the joints of the two layers. This will avoid the formation of cold bridges.

Before pouring concrete into the formwork, it is necessary to lay the reinforcing mesh. For these purposes, ready-made meshes with a rod diameter of 8-10 mm and a cell size of 10-15 cm are used. It is important to lay them in such a way that the steel rods are in the concrete layer. To do this, you need to use special plastic supports.

It is recommended to fill the structure concrete mortar grade M400 or higher, and at a time, so that the structure acquires maximum strength. Therefore, you need to calculate the approximate volume in advance and order the solution in the right amount at a cement plant.

When pouring, it is important to create a uniform layer, for which you carefully smooth the concrete over the surface using a shovel or mop. Additionally, the solution must be stirred to remove air bubbles from the layer. After driving the layer to the level of the edges of the formwork, it is necessary to level the surface as a rule. The side parts of the formwork will serve as guides.

On final stage The surface of the blind area must be sprinkled with a thin layer of cement. To provide ideal conditions To harden the concrete, you will need to cover the entire upper part with a layer of polyethylene. Every day it is necessary to moisten the surface with water. The curing time is 28 days depending on the temperature and humidity of the environment.

Installation of a soft blind area

The soft blind area around the houses is laid on a waterproofing layer laid on top of a sand cushion. It is recommended to use rubemast as an insulating material, which has an increased service life. Laying is done overlapping at a distance of 10-15 cm not only along the main surface, but also on the walls of the main building. The connecting seams are sealed with bitumen under the heat of the burner.

On top of the waterproofing it is necessary to pour a 10 cm layer of a dry mixture of sand and crushed stone in equal proportions. Then the surface should be thoroughly compacted and leveled. In this case, it is imperative to maintain the angle of inclination. Another layer of crushed stone with a grain size of no more than 5 mm is laid on top of the embankment and also compacted.

DIY semi-rigid blind area: step-by-step instructions

Is it possible to create a semi-rigid structure on your own in the absence of suitable experience? The task is completely solvable and you can create a reliable blind area with your own hands - step-by-step instructions will allow you to go through all the stages without errors. It is installed directly on a prepared sand-crushed stone cushion, on top of which an additional layer of sand 8-10 cm thick is poured. For paving

It is necessary to control the angle of inclination with a level to prevent distortion.

The next tile is placed end-to-end with the previous one.

To level, it is necessary to lay a wooden plank on the surface of the tiles and, by tapping, achieve their correct location.

If there is subsidence in one of the corners of the tile, then you need to add a little sand and repeat the leveling using a mallet.

If you need to cut tiles for laying under the wall of a house or along a border, you need to use a grinder.

We carry out installation over the entire area of ​​the blind area.

How to repair a blind area?

The blind area around the house, if you do not know the nuances of laying technology, how to properly pour concrete or lay tiles, will certainly contain defects that will emerge sooner or later and require repair work. Restoration is carried out depending on the degree of damage:

• If there are cracks no larger than 1 mm, repairs are not required, since they are not critical and will in no way worsen the performance characteristics of the structure.
• If the crack size is up to 3 mm, it is recommended to use water-based filling. cement mortar in equal proportions. After the solution dries, a durable layer will be created that will provide maximum protection to the building foundation.
• For cracks up to 3 cm, it will be necessary to fill them with concrete mortar, having previously cleaned them of dirt and treated them with a primer. deep penetration. It is also possible to use waterproof putties or sealants.

• Cracks larger than 3 cm - it is necessary to study the strength of the structure and evaluate its maintainability. It may be necessary to remove part of the top layer and level the pillow. After making sure there are sufficient load-bearing capacity The structure should be filled with concrete.
• The crumbling of the blind area is eliminated by applying a water-cement mixture to the surface in order to strengthen it.

Conclusion

It is shown that a do-it-yourself blind area can last long time, if step-by-step instructions were used and followed construction technologies. The main installation methods for all types of blind areas are given. Some methods for repairing damage to the external surface of a structure are indicated.

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The main tasks of the blind area:

• drainage of rain and melt water from the foundation to the drain;
• protection of the soil near the foundation from freezing;
• attractive appearance.

Blind area should be installed as soon as possible after roof construction is completed, from this moment it begins to flow to the foundation greatest number water. You should install it before winter period to prevent melt water from freezing near the foundation, which negatively affects the strength of the entire building. Before starting construction, it is necessary to consider the structure and dimensions of the blind area around the house.

Construction of a blind area at home

Highlight two mandatory components of the blind area design:

• underlying layer (bottom);
• coating layer (top).

The underlying layer is a flat, compacted base on top of which the coating is laid. The most common materials chosen are sand, clay, and small crushed stone. From this list Only clay has the property of waterproofing. The substrate material is selected depending on the type of coating. The underlying layer is on average 20 cm thick.

Water resistance and resistance to destruction by water are the main criteria for choosing a coating. The coating materials most often used are concrete, small cobblestones, asphalt, clay, and paving slabs. The thickness of the coating is about 5-10 cm and depends on the type of material used.

It is possible to use a combination of coating and underlying layer, for example, the use of clay mixed with sand or crushed stone.

Main normative document regulating the construction of the blind area is the “Manual for the design of foundations of buildings and structures” (to SNIP 2.02.01-83), paragraphs 3.182 and 4.30.

The blind area technology includes several important points:

1. Between the wall and the blind area it is necessary to leave a 1-2 cm gap, which is filled with polystyrene foam or quartz sand. Otherwise, subsidence of the coating may occur, which will lead to damage to the foundation base.
2. It is necessary to create a slope to drain water away from the building. It is formed when compacting the soil or during the process of laying the coating.
3. The choice of materials affects the height of the foundation plinth. When choosing crushed stone or gravel, its height should be at least 30 cm, when using concrete or paving slabs - more than half a meter.
4. The device is regulated by GESN, when using the coating as a pedestrian zone, which is classified as asphalt road surfaces, as specified in the regulations. The standards also indicate material costs and labor costs.
5. The minimum width of the building's blind area is indicated: on shrinkage-prone soil it will be at least 2 meters, on hard soil - 1 m.

Price of work and installation of blind area will be determined in accordance with ENIR when carrying out work by government organizations, mainly it varies only from the type of components used.

Main types of structures

Depending on the material used, are given below.

Concrete blind area

The surface ensures the blind area is waterproof. This method is the most common due to its ease of execution and accessibility.

Laying features:

1. It is necessary to lay a lower underlying clay layer (15 cm) and sand (8 cm), which play a shock-absorbing role.
2. To prevent cracks from appearing in cold weather, expansion joints must be provided before laying concrete. To do this, guide rails are placed every 3 meters, located across the platform, the top of which should be at the same level with the cement mortar. They are used as a guide when leveling the concrete mass.
3. The wet layer is covered with cement in several approaches, then smoothed.
4. It is advisable to use reinforced concrete to increase its service life. Steel mesh is used.

Soft blind area

Its advantages are its beautiful appearance and the ability to perform the functions of a sidewalk.

Laying features:

1. It is necessary to lay a lower clay layer (15 cm), then compact it and level it. It is important that there is no sand in the layer, otherwise there is a high probability of swelling of the entire structure.
2. A waterproofing film is applied over the clay layer. Important note: roofing felt cannot be used.
3. Laying a layer of sand (5 cm).
4. Geotextiles are laid on top, the peculiarity of which is the transmission of moisture, while there is no likelihood of sand filling the voids between the drainage components.
5. Laying a 12-15 cm layer of crushed stone, which serves as drainage; water passes through it to the waterproofing layer, and then is diverted away from the building.
6. Laying the second layer of geotextile.
7. Filling the second layer of sand (5 cm).
8. A special coating that is resistant to temperature and humidity and has a beautiful appearance.

Blind area made of paving slabs (paving stones)

The blind area has an attractive appearance and can serve as a pedestrian path.

Advantages:

• resistance to cold and heat;
• variety of tile shapes;
• large selection of colors;
• the ability to combine different colors and shapes to create an ornament.

Paving stones are made from concrete or stone (granite, basalt). Stone tiles come in a limited range of shapes.

Laying features:

1. A layer of clay is laid (about 10 cm).
2. Covered waterproofing material, which is attached with its edge to the wall using a metal strip.
3. A sand layer (15 cm) is laid out.
4. The sand layer is covered with tiles.
5. The gaps between the tiles are filled with sand.

Paving slabs

The advantage is the simple replacement of worn-out elements. The slabs are laid on top of a concrete base. Process preliminary preparation soil does not differ from that indicated above.

There are square and rectangular slabs of various sizes. Based on the type of material, slabs are divided into reinforced concrete and stone. The surfaces may have incisions and reliefs that serve as decoration.

Blind area made of crushed stone

The simplest type of blind area. It is used for high level groundwater and, if necessary, drainage around the building. Crushed stone can be replaced with pebbles, expanded clay, and gravel. Geotextiles are placed on the compacted soil, and a layer of crushed stone about 10 cm thick is poured on top of it.

Dimensions of the building's blind area

According to SNiP blind area width around the house there should be at least 30 cm more than the roof overhang and be at least 60 cm. It should be taken into account whether the blind area will perform additional functions, for example, as a pedestrian path. In this case, it is recommended to make the width at least a meter for the convenience of people passing. It is also necessary to consider the type of soil. For subsidence soils, the width should be more than 90 cm.

Blind area thickness depends on the types of material used for its manufacture. On average, the depth to which it is necessary to go deeper is 25-30 cm.

Slope angle of the blind area should be at least 1.5-2% of the width. This indicator should not be made less, the water will flow poorly and stagnate near the foundation, which will lead to its destruction. The angle also depends on the type of coating. For crushed stone and stone, 5-10% is recommended, for concrete and asphalt coatings - 3-5%.

A drainage gutter should be placed along the perimeter of the blind area. It can be made as a recess in concrete or in the form of half a pipe placed on a concrete base.

In the place where the blind area connects to the wall, It is recommended to leave an expansion joint. The width of the seam is approximately 1-2 cm. The seam can be sealed with sand, bitumen or two layers of roofing material, which is preferable. It is impossible to connect the wall with the blind area end-to-end, this can lead to damage to the facing material.

The concrete from which the foundation is made has high thermal conductivity. If provided basement or basement floor, it is recommended to insulate the blind area, for example, with extruded polystyrene foam (EPS). An insulated blind area will significantly reduce heat loss from the building, which will reduce heating costs in the cold season.

Before laying any type of blind area, it is necessary to carefully remove the vegetation cover from the work area. Vegetation reduces the quality of soil compaction, retains moisture and can damage the structure over time.

The blind area protects the foundation of the house, protecting it from moisture. However, it is often part of the decorative arrangement of the entire yard. The selection of materials for the blind area should take into account not only functional features, but also compatibility with the design elements of the site: paving slabs, driveway, fence and decoration of the house itself.

That's why it is worth planning the device and design of the blind area in advance, at the stage of developing drawings, so that the architectural ensemble of the site looks holistic and complete, and the entire building structure remains strong for many years.

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