Now in garden design often use unpretentious perennial plants that require almost no care. Among them is Brunner ( Brunnera) from the Burachnikov family is far from in last place. We grow two types: large-leaved ( B. macrophylla) and Siberian ( B. sibirica) Brunner.
This plant is considered winter-hardy, grows and begins to bloom very early, when there is still little greenery in the garden. Looks just great thanks to its beautiful large leaves(especially in variegated varieties). Forget-me-not ( popular name culture) it’s not called that for nothing, its small blue flowers With pleasant aroma very similar to forget-me-nots. By the way, both plants belong to the same family.
Brunnera macrophylla "Jack Frost"
Where to plant Brunnera?
The culture is not too demanding on where it grows. But when planting in partially shaded (sun in the morning, shade in the afternoon) wet areas, clay soils it will grow faster and look more luxurious. In this case, the plants do not even need watering. They grow worse in full shade.
Planted in the sun, and even in the absence of regular watering, the forget-me-not can wither and even shed its leaves.
When watering is resumed, they usually grow back. Brunnera feels fine if she is placed under fruit trees, near bodies of water, near the northern wall of the house, is not afraid of water flowing from the roof during rain. This culture doesn't like too much fertile soils and excessively rich food (especially fresh manure). It grows in one place for a long time - about 15 years.
Forget-me-not propagation
Dividing the Brunnera macrophylla bush. Towards the end of summer, the bushes are dug up with a clod of earth, the shoots are cut off, leaving stumps. After this, the bush is dipped into a container of water to remove soil from the roots and divided into parts. The cuttings should be planted as quickly as possible permanent place so as not to dry out their root system.
Transplanting in late summer is usually more successful than replanting in spring. But if necessary, the bush can be divided in the spring, then during the summer it is necessary to monitor the soil moisture and, in the hottest weather, shade the young plants with covering material. Overmoistening, by the way, is also unacceptable. For variegated varieties, this method, unlike the seed method, allows you to preserve all the characteristics of the mother plant.
Reproduction of Brunnera sibirica. In the second half of summer, powerful rhizomes are dug up, divided into pieces (5-6 centimeters) with a viable bud, planted (depth about 3 centimeters), and watered. Rooted young plants usually bloom the following year. Forget-me-nots of this species are not planted in spring.
Growing brunnera from seeds. Fruits with seeds ripen by early June. Seeds need long-term (2-3 months) stratification, so it is better to plant them before winter. At favorable conditions young plants will begin to bloom in the 3rd year. Self-seeding happens.
Brunnera macrophylla ‘Jack Frost’ Brunnera macrophylla ‘Sea Heart’ Brunnera macrophylla ‘Looking Glass’
Care
Usually there are no difficulties. If the planting site is chosen correctly, Brunnera grows quickly and clogs not only weeds, but also neighboring plants. To avoid this, plants are limited when planting, leaving a sufficiently large area for nutrition. After flowering is completed (lasts more than 20 days), withered leaves and peduncles are removed. Towards the end of summer the leaves will grow back.
Brunnera macrophylla does not lose its foliage after flowering and looks attractive until late autumn. It grows more slowly, so young plants must be weeded without deep loosening (the root system is powerful, but located close to the surface).
If the plants are planted in an elevated open area, it is better to mulch the plantings. When flower stalks reappear at the end of summer, it is recommended to remove them so that the plants are not weakened before wintering. Before winter (if there is no snow), it is advisable to cover the forget-me-not bushes with mulch. In the spring, after the onset of heat, the shelter must be removed and the soil should be loosened superficially.
Diseases and pests
The culture does not get sick often. But when excessive watering and in rainy summers, Siberian brunnera may be affected by brown spot or powdery mildew. The large-leaved variety hardly suffers from these diseases. Forget-me-not pests are also not too fond of them. Only occasionally do aphids, whiteflies, and slugs attack.
Forcing brunners
If you transplant bushes with a large clump into deep flowerpots in the fall, then in the second half of December you will be able to admire the modest but very cute flowers of false forget-me-not. To do this, after transplanting, water the plants and remove the flowerpots in a shaded area of the flower garden until real frost. After which they are brought into a cool but bright room (temperature about +5 degrees) and periodically watered until the shoots begin to grow. After this, the temperature is raised to +10 degrees.
We select neighbors
Hostas, ferns, Rogersia, astilbe, heuchera, hellebore, lungwort are well suited.
Brunnera macrophylla "Jack Frost" with "partners" in the flower garden - hostas and heuchera
2014, . All rights reserved.
Today, even in gardening with considerable experience, it is difficult to find a site that is not landscaped with elements of landscape design. In addition to growing vegetables and berries, gardeners are increasingly decorating their plots with various ornamental crops.
Brunnera has gained great popularity due to its decorativeness and unpretentiousness. This plant can withstand frosts down to -30 degrees. Without losing its appearance or degenerating, it can grow in one comfortable place for up to 15 years.
Brunnera belongs to the borage family. It is a low shrub with heart-shaped leaves on rather tall pubescent petioles. The height of the bushes can reach 60 cm. In the wild, it adorns the banks of rivers, lakes and streams, but can also be found in pine, fir and beech forests.
Named after Samuel Brunner, a botanist from Switzerland. But among gardeners the name “forget-me-not” has stuck because of the similarity of the flowers. The only external difference is that the forget-me-not has a yellow center of the flower, while the brunnera has a white center.
Types and varieties of brunners
Brunnera macrophylla— its homeland is the Caucasus. Externally, it is a small shrub about 40 cm tall with a powerful rhizome, from which densely pubescent stems with dark green, pointed, heart-shaped leaves extend to the sides. Flowers ranging from lilac to dark blue with a white spot in the center are collected in panicles. The flowering period is from the end of April to the end of June. It is most popular among gardeners, since the leaves do not change color until deep frost.
Siberian Brunnera (Brunnera sibirica)- owes its name to its place of origin - Western and Eastern Siberia. Its long and strong rhizome develops a whole network underground, the shoots from which cover the ground with a carpet of plants. Does not form a bush. Flowers of a dark blue color rise above the wrinkled and dense leaves in panicle inflorescences. Prefers shady wet places. The flowering process lasts from the end of May for a month. Then the plant almost dries out, but from mid-August it is covered with new greenery, which it preserves until frost.
Oriental Brunnera (Brunnera orientalis)- Homeland is the countries of the Middle East. It is not particularly decorative, therefore it is not used as a decoration for areas, but grows only in the natural environment.
Since of all the species the most attractive for landscaping is Brunnera macrophylla, it became the basis for the development of various varieties.
Jack Frost— “Frost” is translated from English as “frost.” The variety bears this name for a reason: the leaves look as if covered with frost - green veins on a silver background. It forms a fairly large bush, reaching 60 cm in height. It blooms from May to June and is characterized by increased frost resistance.
To preserve the decorative appearance of the leaves, constant moisture is necessary. Therefore, the northern part of the site, protected from prolonged exposure to sunlight, where water stagnates during rains, is quite suitable for planting. IN full shade, as in the sun, it is not worth planting.
Variegata- low variety - up to 35 cm. The leaves are emerald green with a transition to white at the edges.
Prefers partial shade. When landing on sunny place the leaves will burn and lose their decorative effect. It can also completely lose its leaves in case of drought.
Looking glass— translated as “mirror.” The height is only from 20 to 35 cm. The color of the leaves is dominated by a silver tint. The flowers are pale blue with a diameter of 5 to 7 mm.
Suitable for planting are shady and semi- shady places. The bushes hold their shape well and are quite resistant to fungal infections. Excellent for decorating borders and shaded parts of rockeries.
Kings Ransom- shrub from 40 to 55 cm in height. The leaves are large with dark green veins on a light gray background, creamy at the edges. Is different abundant flowering from late April to mid-June. In warm autumn weather, flowering may resume, but in this case it is better to remove the inflorescences so that the plant does not lose strength before winter. Grows well in partial shade with regular watering.
Millennium Silber— the emerald leaves of this variety are covered with a scattering of small white spots closer to the edge, which makes it more recognizable among the others. Growing conditions are the same as for other varieties.
Silver Hut— if you translate the name from English into Russian, it will sound like “silver heart”. Anyone who sees the leaves of this Brunnera variety will immediately understand why it was called that. It’s as if dozens of silver hearts with a thin green edge and veins frame the flower stalks. The bush reaches 40 cm in height and up to half a meter in diameter. Thanks to the dense leaf blade, it can withstand even straight Sun rays and is not afraid of excess moisture. It is not demanding on soil acidity.
Choosing a place to plant brunners
Brunner flowers are usually planted in flower beds, near fences and garden paths- it will look great in any part of the garden. Before planting Brunnera in a prepared place, study its characteristics and location requirements - it all depends on the variety you choose.
The huge advantage of Brunnera is that it feels comfortable in partial shade and in places high humidity soil. That is, where most plants will either be inhibited in growth or become sick with fungus. Therefore, with its help you can improve those corners of the garden where the sun only peeks in the first half of the day.
Planting Brunnera macrophylla
The most optimal time for planting brunners in open ground- period from July to early August. Brunner does not require any specific soil for planting, but it is still better if the soil is moist, loamy and heavy.
Brunner is strictly forbidden to plant in the spring, since during this period it is extremely susceptible to various diseases and pests. But if you still decide to plant Brunnera in spring period, then it is better to do this together with the lump of earth in which it grew before transplantation. It is better to plant brunnera on a cloudy day or any other day, but in the evening.
When planting a flower, you should definitely divide it - this will rejuvenate the plant. After flowering, the ground part of the brunnera is cut off and the roots are dug up. You should rinse the dug roots well and remove rotten and old parts. Next, cut the main root into pieces. Delenki must have buds of future shoots.
The cut parts of the root (divisions) are placed in previously prepared holes and buried. It is very important to remember to thoroughly water the areas with buried roots. The soil can be mulched so that the young shoots do not experience a lack of moisture and overheating.
Landing is carried out as follows:
- The above-ground part is cut off, leaving 10-12 cm.
- The rhizome is dug up and washed in a large container with water.
- Defective areas of roots are removed.
- Using a sharp knife, carefully divide the rhizome (easier along the line of natural collapse of the bush) so that each part has at least one bud.
- The cuttings are planted in the soaked holes and buried in soil so as not to cover the root collar.
The plant is so unpretentious that it does not even need watering, if, of course, it is planted in a good place. The overgrown Brunnera will not particularly allow weeds. But you still need to monitor the weeds and weed as necessary. The only thing that won't hurt is successful cultivation Brunners are mulch for hot summers and winters.
It is strictly forbidden to dig up or loosen the soil under the brunnera - you can damage the roots, which are usually located close to the surface of the earth. Before wintering, it is better to cut off the above-ground parts, leaving stumps about 12 cm long.
In the spring, you can scatter granules of complex fertilizer directly on the snow to speed up the growing season and a more saturated color of the leaves.
Reproduction of brunners
Brunnera propagates vegetatively (by dividing the bush) and by seeds. The favorable time for planting and replanting occurs after the end of the flowering period, that is, in August. By this time, the laying of future shoots is just ending. If it is necessary to plant a bush earlier, then it should be dug up with a large reserve and transported without covering it with an earthen ball.
Propagation by seeds is more painstaking work, since self-seeding rarely occurs. The seeds ripen around the end of July. For normal germination, they need stratification for 3-4 months, so Brunnera needs to be sown before winter.
Diseases and pests
Drying of the foliage of Brunnera if it is planted on sunny area, cannot be called a disease. Rather, these are problems due to violations of agricultural technology, which are eliminated by transplanting the plant to more favorable conditions.
But fungal infections in the form powdery mildew or brown spot - a real scourge in a rainy summer. Even such a plant, which is tolerant of excess moisture in the ground, is not able to withstand fungal infections at high humidity and low temperatures air.
The fungus spreads very quickly. Therefore, in order to prevent the plant from losing its decorative properties, all affected parts should be removed and treated Bordeaux mixture or other suitable means. As a preventive measure, you can spray it with phytosporin once every 2 weeks.
Insect pests can include aphids (especially if there are a lot of ants in the area), whiteflies or leafminers. It will help against aphids" green soap"or tar solution. Against the rest, it is better to stock up on several bags of complex insecticides in advance.
Brunner in landscape design
The plant looks spectacular along paths and will decorate any alpine hill or rock garden. It also looks magnificent as a lower tier in multi-story flower beds. Beneficially shades tall trees flowering perennials in mixborders. Pairs well with wild garlic, ferns, juniper and bitterweed.
All varieties of brunners feel comfortable near bodies of water, making their shores airy green. Only this one plant can transform any nondescript area into an elegant and elegant one for a long time and without much hassle.
End of flowering and preparation for winter
Brunnera macrophylla stops blooming in the summer, in July. Withered flowers need to be cut, leaving only the leaves. Leaves, unlike flowers, do not lose their beauty until the onset of cold weather.
With the arrival of cold weather, the leaves of brunnera should also be cut off, since they will not fall off on their own. After the leaves of the flower are completely cut off, it can be prepared for wintering. Brunner can survive the winter on her own, but she could use some extra help. It is enough to simply mulch the soil with sawdust, leaves or humus.
Plant Brunnera (lat. Brunnera), or brunera, belongs to the genus of perennial herbaceous plants of the Borage family, numbering only three species, representatives of which grow in Eastern and Western Siberia, Asia Minor and the Caucasus. Latin name The Brunner flower was named after the Swiss traveler and botanist Samuel Brunner. Two types of brunnera are grown in culture - large-leaved and Siberian. Brunner in landscape design usually used for borders and stable decorative groups as part of mixborders.
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Planting and caring for brunnera (in brief)
- Landing: end of July or beginning of August.
- Bloom: from the end of April to the end of May.
- Lighting: bright light in the morning, and partial shade in the afternoon.
- The soil: clayey, moderately wet to wet.
- Watering: only during periods of prolonged drought.
- Feeding: Not needed.
- Reproduction: variegated forms - only vegetatively: by dividing a bush or rhizome, the species Brunnera can be propagated by seeds, subsequently it self-sows.
- Pests: aphids and whiteflies.
- Diseases: powdery mildew, brown spot.
Read more about growing brunnera below.
Brunner flower - description
Brunnera is a perennial herbaceous plant 45-50 cm high with branched pubescent stems, large whole broad-heart-shaped leaves on long petioles and blue, forget-me-not-like flowers with a diameter of 5-10 mm, collected in corymbose or paniculate inflorescences, because of which it is popular among the people. called a forget-me-not. Brunnera blooms from April for a month, but can bloom again in the fall. However, unlike the forget-me-not, the flower does not have brunners inside. yellow spot, and white. The fruit of Brunnera is a nut. Brunnera forms beautiful thickets, it is unpretentious, very attractive and winter-hardy, but does not like heat and drought. In one place the plant can grow up to 15 years.
Planting brunneras
When to plant brunnera
In nature, Brunnera grows in forests, so it loves moisture and tolerates shade well. Based on this, you should choose a site for it. In hot regions, it is better to plant Brunnera in the shade so that the plant does not die from strong sun. In cooler areas, you can plant the plant in partial shade or in areas that do not receive afternoon sun. In direct sun, Brunnera can only grow near bodies of water. The plant needs clayey, moist soil, and Siberian Brunnera is much more demanding in this regard than large-leaved Brunnera. Brunnera is planted and replanted in late July or early August. In the spring, replanting is fraught with diseases for the plant, since at this time of year it is most vulnerable. Only large-leaved Brunnera can be replanted in the spring, and only with a large lump of earth. Brunners are planted on a cloudy day or in the evening.
How to plant Brunnera
Planting of Brunnera macrophylla is usually carried out simultaneously with plant division. A faded bush is dug up, the above-ground part is cut off, the roots are cleared of soil by soaking them in a bucket of water, and then the bush is divided into parts, following the natural collapse of the rhizome. If necessary, you can cut the roots with a sharp, sterile knife. Each division must contain part of the rhizome and a bud for next year's renewal. The cuttings are planted in holes prepared in advance, not forgetting to water the plants abundantly after planting.
Brunnera sibirica reproduces by cuttings of rhizomes that lie very close to the surface. The rhizome is dug up, old and rotten areas are removed, broken into pieces 4-6 cm long so that each contains a living renewal bud, after which parts of the rhizome are planted to a depth of 2-3 cm and watered abundantly.
After planting, the area of land around the brunner is mulched with sawdust, limestone, tree bark, and can even be used as mulch. coffee grounds or ash.
Caring for Brunnera in the garden
How to care for Brunnera
Growing Brunnera sibirica and Brunnera macrophylla have their differences. Brunnera macrophylla is decorative throughout the growing season, and with proper planting (in the shade, in moist soil) one could not think about it until the fall. But this type of brunnera has problems with weeds, so it has to be weeded regularly, and it is not recommended to loosen the ground around it, since the root system of the brunnera is located very close to the surface. As for the Siberian brunnera, after flowering ends, it quickly loses its decorative effect; brown spots, they dry out, and it is better, of course, to remove them in July, especially since in mid-August new leaves will appear on the brunner, which will last until frost. The Siberian Brunnera is not afraid of weeds; there is no need to loosen the ground around it for the same reason as in the area with large-leaved Brunnera, and it does not need watering - natural precipitation will be enough. However, in abnormally dry summers, both types of brunnera need watering - the condition of its leaves will tell you that it is time to water the plant.
Reproduction of brunners
In the section on planting brunnera, we told you about ways to propagate the plant by dividing the bush and dividing the rhizome. By the way, variegated forms of Brunnera reproduce in exactly these ways - vegetatively. It is also possible to propagate the species Brunnera by seed, but the plant sets seeds poorly - it does not have time due to frost. Therefore, to grow brunners from seeds, it is better to purchase seed material in a store. Small brunnera seeds are sown in open ground before winter, but if you decide to sow the seeds in the spring, keep in mind that they need three to four months of stratification, for which the brunnera seeds must be placed in the refrigerator or sown in a box and buried in the snow for the winter . However, there is no point in growing brunnera from seeds, since it easily propagates vegetatively, and in addition, self-seeding of brunnera very often occurs.
Pests and diseases of Brunnera
If the summer is rainy, the Brunnera in the garden may develop brown spot, causing spots to appear on its leaves. The plant may also be affected by powdery mildew. In the fight against these diseases, you will be helped by the timely removal of diseased parts of the plant and treatment of brunnera with a fungicide - Bordeaux mixture, for example.
Among the pests that are dangerous to the plant are aphids and whiteflies, which are destroyed by treating the brunners with a solution of Actellik or Karbofos.
Brunnera after flowering
Preparing brunners for winter
Planting and caring for brunnera in open ground does not involve any difficulties, and there will be no problems when preparing the plant for wintering. Brunnera leaves do not die off on their own in the winter, so they should be cut off. The plant overwinters well without shelter, but it is better to mulch the soil in the area with brunnera on the eve of winter with compost, peat or humus.
Types and varieties of brunners
Brunnera macrophylla
in nature lives in Caucasus mountains, that’s why the Germans call it “Caucasian forget-me-not”. It grows as a bush - branched, rough-pubescent leafy stems up to 30-40 cm high extend from the rhizome. Its leaves are basal, oblong heart-shaped with a sharp apex, on long petioles, dark green on the upper side of the plate, rough and pubescent on the lower side , and therefore grayish. Dark blue flowers up to 7 mm in diameter with a white spot in the middle, collected in apical corymbose-paniculate inflorescences, bloom at the end of April and fade a month later. In warm autumn, re-blooming may begin. This species has been in culture since the 19th century. The best varieties of Brunnera macrophylla:
- Millennium Silber– the leaves of this brunnera are covered with large spots of silvery-white color;
- Brunner Jack Frost- a plant with almost white, or rather, silver leaves, on which green veins and a narrow green border along the edge of the leaf are clearly visible;
- Hadspen Cream– brunnera with wide heart-shaped leaves up to 15 cm long with a narrow white-cream border along the edges;
- Langtrees– a variety with dark green leaves with silver speckles along the periphery of the leaf blade and blue flowers;
- Brunner Variegata– the leaves of this variety are marked with a wide white-cream stripe, extending into the green field with deep tongues. In bright sun the leaves grow almost entirely white.
Description: There are 3 known species found in the Caucasus, Western and Eastern Siberia. Rhizomatous herbaceous perennials with large entire leaves and forget-me-not-shaped flowers collected in paniculate or corymbose inflorescences.
In decorative floriculture, 2 types are used.
| Brunnera macrofolia- B. macrophylla (Adam)Johnst.
Lives in the Caucasus mountains. The Germans call it "Caucasian forget-me-not" (Kaukasus - Vergipmeinnicht). It grows in the form of a spreading bush, from the thick and long rhizome of which several branched stems extend up to 30 cm in height, reaching 40 cm by the end of flowering. The stems are rough-pubescent, leafy. The leaves are few, oblong, basal on long petioles, heart-shaped with a sharp apex, dark green above, grayish below and rough with pubescence, up to 25 cm long. The flowers are up to 0.7 cm in diameter, in apical, paniculate-corymbose inflorescences, dark blue with a white spot in the center, externally similar to forget-me-not flowers, but forget-me-not flowers, unlike them, have a yellow “eye”. Flowering begins in late April - early May and lasts about a month. In warm, long autumn it can bloom a second time. The fruit is dry, breaking up into four wrinkled nuts. At the end of June - July, the seeds (black, small, few) ripen. The plant is winter-hardy down to -29 degrees. Known in culture from early XIX c., when Russia began studying the Caucasus and the first botanical expeditions went there. Brunnera macrophylla is a true perennial. The bush can exist for up to 10-15 years without transplanting or dividing. Planted in the shade, on loose soil, it is decorative from the end of April (the appearance of leaves) until the first frost, when the leaves die off. Young leaves appear throughout the season, which gives the brunnera bush an always fresh, elegant look. Brunnera macrophylla has garden forms and varieties that are valued for their variegated, broad-heart-shaped leaves. IN garden centers and you can find Brunners from collectors" Langtrees" ("Langtrees") and " Variegata"("Variegata"), however in Lately New varieties have also appeared.
"Langtrees"("Langtrees") - a variety with blue flowers and dark green leaves with silver specks, located in several rows along the periphery of the leaf blade. The variety is distinguished by its powerful growth and unpretentiousness. "Millenniumsilver"("Millenniumsilber") differs from the previous one in that it has leaves covered with large silvery-white spots over almost the entire leaf blade. "Jack Frost"("Jack Frost") has almost white (or, more precisely, silver) leaves, only the veins and a narrow strip along the edge of the leaf remain green. Another group of varieties consists of plants that have a white or cream border on the leaf blade. So, for the variety " Hadspen Cream" ("Hadspen Cream") is characterized by a narrow creamy-white border on cupped leaves. Shape " Variegata" ("Variegata") or variety " Dawson's White"("Dawsons White") has a wide creamy-white border that extends into the green background with deep white tongues, creating a play of greenish-grayish shades. In sunny habitats, plants often throw out almost white leaves. On older leaves, the white border begins to turn brown, and their need to be cleaned up on time. Along with the blue-flowered ones, brunners with white star-shaped flowers appear, for example, the variety " Betty Bowring"("Betty Bowring"). Sort " Hadspen Cream" has wide, core-shaped leaves with a narrow creamy-white stripe along the edges. At the end of flowering, they reach 15 cm in length. Variety " Blaukuppel"is distinguished by a larger inflorescence in the form of a dome (sphere). |
 Brunnera sibirica- V. sibirica Stev.
Plant of the Altai and Sayan forests.
It is interesting that, unlike Brunnera macrophylla, the leaves of this species become covered with dark spots and dry out after the end of flowering. But at the end of summer (mid-August), new leaves begin to grow, which last until the first frost. Like any forest plant, Brunnera sibirica prefers moist, shady places. This plant is often damaged by brown spot. Photos of EDSR. |
One of the best spring plants, larger and more spectacular than Brunnera macrofolia. The rhizome is long, up to 1 cm thick. Single stems up to 60 cm tall with sparse, glandular drooping. Brunnera sibirica does not form a separate bush, but a thicket of leaves. The basal leaves are on long petioles, dense, wrinkled on top, heart-shaped, the stem leaves are almost lanceolate, sessile. Dark blue flowers with a white eye, up to 0.5 cm in diameter, are collected in complex paniculate inflorescences rising above the leaves. Blooms in May - June for 25 days. The fruits are nuts.
 Вrunnera macrophylla "Hadspen Cream" Photo Nursery "Northern Flora" |
 Вrunnera macrophylla "Variegata" Photo Nursery "Northern Flora" |
 Brunnera macrophylla "Jack Frost" Photo Mikhail Polotnov |
 Brunnera macrophylla "Mr. Morse" Photo by Andrey Ganov |
 Brunnera "Langtrees" Photo by Andrey Ganov |
 Brunnera "Looking Glass" Photo by Olena Ukleina |
Location: When placing varietal Brunner in the garden, you should choose a location where they will be illuminated by the morning rays of the sun and fall into the shade in the afternoon. In full shade, plants stretch out and lose their decorative appearance, and when grown in the sun, brunners need to ensure constant soil and air moisture, which is only possible if there is a reservoir. In hotter climates, planting them in full sun is generally not a good idea.
Brunnera "Mr. Morse"
Photo by Andrey Ganov
The soil: Brunnera sibirica prefers clayey, constantly moist soils. It grows very well on the north side of the house, where it flows from the roof. rainwater. With a lack of moisture, the leaves droop and by mid-summer the plant completely loses its decorative effect. For Brunnera macrophylla, a site with moderately moist soils is best suited. Too rich soils, especially those fertilized with fresh manure, cause active, prolonged growth of leaves, which disrupts the natural rhythm of seasonal growth and development characteristic of these species.
Care: It should be noted that Brunnera macrophylla, in which, as already noted, new leaves appear throughout the season, is decorative from spring to late autumn. In Brunnera sibirica, after flowering, the leaves dry out quite quickly and become covered with brown spots, so it’s better to cut them in July. And already in mid-August new leaves grow, which last until frost. But neither of the brunneras have leaves that overwinter.
Caring for brunnera plantings is simple. In dense thickets of Brunnera sibirica, whose powerful rhizomes, intertwined, do not allow weeds here; care consists of cutting off leaves that have lost their decorative effect. In the conditions of Central Russia, properly planted (shade and moisture), they do not need watering. Brunnera macrophylla is less resistant to weeds. Its bush grows slowly, and weeds such as gooseberry, butterwort and other long-rhizome perennials can overwhelm it. Therefore, timely weeding is the basis for the good growth of this plant. It does not need watering or fertilizers. It is not recommended to loosen the plantings, since the rhizomes are located close to the surface. No illnesses were noted.
Brunnera "Spring Yellow"
Photo by Andrey Ganov
Brunneras do not weed, but Brunnera sibirica grows so quickly due to its long rhizomes that limiting its invasive tendencies is the gardener's concern.
Reproduction: dividing rhizomes, cutting rhizomes and sowing seeds. Self-seeding possible. Brunners bloom in the spring, and therefore division and replanting are carried out at the end of summer, when the plants have already formed flower buds next year. Planted in late July - August, divisions take root in the fall, overwinter well and bloom in the spring of next year. Please note that the Siberian Brunnera is not replanted in the spring; the large-leaved Brunnera is replanted only with a large lump of earth.
Brunnera macrophylla is a plant with a short vertical rhizome, propagated by dividing the bush. The bush is dug up and cut aboveground part, the roots are cleared of soil by placing them in a bucket of water. Then the bush is divided into separate parts. It is better to follow the natural collapse of the rhizome, but if the bush is difficult to divide, use sharp knife. But in any division there must be a renewal bud for next year and a section of rhizome. Then the division is planted in the designated place in the flower garden. It is advisable to put a label with the name next to it, so as not to forget about the plant later.
Brunnera sibirica is a plant with a branched rhizome; it reproduces by cuttings of rhizomes. The rhizome, located close to the surface of the earth, is dug up, freed from old rotten parts and broken into separate pieces by hand. Each segment should contain a living (not rotten or dried out) renewal bud. In Brunnera Siberia it is dark, shiny, dense - this is the basis for future successful growth. A section of rhizome (4-6 cm long) with a bud is planted in a designated place to a depth of 2-3 cm and lightly sprinkled with soil. A label with the name of the plant is placed near the planting.
Brunnera "Jack Frost" & Viola labradorica
Photo by Olga Bondareva
Usage: To create stable decorative groups as part of mixborders, it is good to use Brunnera macrophylla. Brunnera macrophylla can also be used in borders, since it does not grow, keeps its shape all season, its leaves are neat, and no diseases have been noted. It can also be used for planting in shady rockeries, but in their most humid part.
Brunnera sibirica is less valuable for flower beds, as it loses its decorative effect in mid-summer. But at the same time, this is not a capricious, quickly growing plant that forms a dense thicket (up to 50 cm in height) and is indispensable for decorating shaded, waterlogged areas in the depths of the garden or in the background of flower beds. Its advantages are rapid growth and stability. Growing does not require much time or expense.
Partners: a dense, beautiful bush of brunnera with a cloud of blue flowers above it looks great next to serrated primrose, hellebore, Colchian horny weed, bear's onion, female fern (female moth fern), etc.
The delicate blue flowers of the perennial are often confused with forget-me-nots. Their corollas are indeed very similar in size and shape, only the middle is different: the forget-me-not is yellow, the brunnera is white.
Planting and caring for plants in open ground differs for different species, so the gardener should pay attention to this fact.
Airy blue clouds of inflorescences are attractive in early summer, and from mid-July Brunnera can surprise with its luxurious, spectacularly colored foliage.
Not too many people know about the beneficial properties herbaceous plant: during flowering, the entire above-ground part of one of the species is harvested and used in folk medicine as an anti-inflammatory, laxative and antipyretic.
The homeland of the perennial is Eastern and Western Siberia, foothills of the Caucasus and Asia Minor.
The genus Brunnera received its scientific name in honor of the Swiss traveler and botanist Samuel Brunner. Popularly, the plant is often called Caucasian forget-me-not or simply forget-me-not.
The Brunner flower develops a long, thick rhizome. The basal leaves are numerous, their leaf blades are broadly heart-shaped and attached to elongated petioles.
Thin stems are pubescent, branch, turning into peduncles, and rise approximately 40-45 cm above the soil level.
The inflorescence is loose, corymbose or paniculate, consists of small, about 5-10 mm in circumference, bright blue flowers with a forget-me-not corolla.
Flowering begins in mid-spring and lasts about a month, but may re-bloom in early autumn. The fruits are miniature nuts.
Types and varieties of brunners
In the genus Brunnera of the borage family, three species are known, but only two of them are used in cultivation.
Brunner eastern(B. orientalis) is practically unknown in open ground floriculture, since it does not represent any particular decorative appeal, and is found under natural conditions in the countries of the Middle East.
The variety B. sibirica is popular in gardens middle zone not only thanks to its beautiful dark blue flowers, it is also grown in connection with medicinal properties.
However, the plant has a significant drawback - after the inflorescences wither, the foliage also dries up.
Within a month and a half, the place where the perennial grows becomes bare, disrupting the decorative effect of the flower garden. But from mid-August, young succulent leaves grow and enliven the landscape with bright emerald greenery.
Brunnera macrophylla is the most popular species in the genus, producing many varieties with intricate patterns on the leaves. The birthplace of the flower is the Caucasus.
A small shrub up to 40 cm high has a powerful rhizome, from which pubescent branches with dark green heart-shaped leaves with sharp tips shoot vertically upward.
The flowers are small, up to 1 cm in diameter, appear at the end of April and bloom until last numbers June. Unlike its relative, Brunnera sibirica retains the rich, rich green color of its foliage until deep frosts.
It is of great interest to flower growers for this reason, and also because it has become the basis for creating magnificent decorative varieties.
Varieties of Brunnera macrophylla:
Silver Hut (Silver Heart) - the main background of the leaves is gray-silver, but the edges of the leaf blades are surrounded by a thin rich green stripe;
Hadspen Cream - on green foliage there is a creamy-white uneven border along the edge;
King's Ransom - with large heart-shaped leaves of a light gray hue, on which a clear pattern of dark emerald veins is written;
Looking Glass - seems to emphasize its “mirror” name due to the predominant silvery tint of the leaf blades;
Jack Frost - the background of the leaf is silver, but green veins and a narrow border along the edge of the leaf blade are clearly visible;
Langtrees - small silvery spots are randomly scattered on the dark emerald background of the leaf blade;
Brunner Variegata - the leaves have a wide, almost white edge, which fills the green background of the plate with tongues: the more sun, the larger the light area.
Millennium Silber(Millennium Silber) - with large silvery spots on the leaf blades, forming a bizarre pattern;
Other varieties are no less popular - Silver Wings, Betty Bowring, Dowson's While, Alexander's Great and others.
Reproduction of brunners
The plant is propagated by vegetative and seed methods, and it is not advisable to propagate varietal specimens by seeds.
Firstly, they rarely have time to ripen before frost, and secondly, they varietal characteristics They are extremely rarely preserved when plants are grown by sowing seeds.
Dividing the rhizome
This method is most often combined with transplantation, which is preferably carried out after the perennial has flowered.
The bush is dug up and the roots are freed from the soil, lowered into a container with cold water.
Usually the rhizome falls apart without much effort, but you can also use a sharp, disinfected tool to cut into in the right places.
Each division should be at least 6-8 cm long and contain a sufficient number of roots and buds for restoration of the next season.
The divisions are planted in separate holes and watered abundantly. The embedment depth is no more than 2-3 cm, because the root system of brunnera is located close to the soil surface.
After planting the cuttings, the space around the root collar is mulched with sawdust, wood ash or small pieces of bark.
Seeds
This method is more suitable for natural species, but collecting seeds is sometimes difficult due to the fact that the plant blooms until frost.
Planting material it simply does not have time to ripen, although self-seeding is quite common for perennials. However, Brunnera seeds can always be purchased at specialized flower shops.
Sowing is done directly into open ground in the fall. For spring sowing, it is kept in the refrigerator for 3-4 months or sown in a box, which is dug into the snow in the garden bed.
Shoots appear in the spring, and after minor growing they are carefully transferred to their permanent place of growth.
Site selection and suitable soil for Brunnera
The plant is very well suited for an area illuminated by the sun in the morning, but in the shade in the afternoon.
In a completely shaded place, its shoots stretch out, and the flowers appear unfriendly and sparsely.
A completely sunny place is not suitable due to lack of moisture, unless the situation is saved by the proximity of a garden pond.
Brunnera grows on loams without special care, additional watering and application nutrients. It is not necessary to fertilize good garden soil; compost is added to poor soil during site preparation.
However, applying fertilizers to oily soil, especially fresh manure, often turns out to be an unsuccessful service for the flower - the foliage grows actively and over a long period of time, but the root system remains poorly prepared for wintering.
This is not scary for the species specimen; it is more stable and tenacious, but varietal bushes often die.
How to plant Brunnera correctly
Without losing its attractiveness, the plant can grow in one place for about 15 years, but it is still better to rejuvenate it by dividing it after 3-4 years.
Perennials can be planted and replanted throughout the growing season, but no later than September.
The most optimal time for transplanting work with brunner bushes - from July after the end of flowering until the beginning of August.
Many experienced flower growers It is categorically not recommended to replant Brunnera in the spring, since the plant at this time is more susceptible than usual to diseases and pests. As a last resort, if there is no other way out, replant the bush on a cloudy day along with a large lump of earth.
Planting brunners is carried out according to the following algorithm:
- The above-ground part is cut off completely, leaving no more than 10-12 cm in height of the pagons and petioles of the basal leaves.
- The rhizome is dug up and immersed in warm water to wash away any remaining soil from the root system.
- Carefully inspect the roots and determine the presence of damaged or rotten areas.
- Remove defective areas of the rhizome with a sharp, disinfected knife.
- If necessary, divide the rhizome into several parts.
- Dig holes commensurate with the volume of the root ball and place divisions in them.
- Sprinkle the roots of the perennial so that the root collar remains uncovered with soil.
After graduation planting work The bushes are well watered and mulched.
Caring for different types of Brunnera: what are the differences?
The plant is unpretentious and does not need particularly careful care, especially if the planting site is chosen correctly. Watering is not necessary for it if the summer is not too hot and moderately rainy.
Weeds under overgrown bushes have little chance of developing, so if weeding is carried out, it is done very carefully - the roots of brunnera are located very close to the surface of the soil and are easily damaged.
It is better to pull out the weeds by hand. Very good alternative weeding and watering - mulching the root space.
In early spring To improve the growing season, it is advisable to sprinkle granular complex fertilizers directly on the snow around the plants.
After the end of flowering, large-leaved brunners cut off the faded flowering stems if there is no need to collect seeds.
Brunnera sibirica begins to dry out after the inflorescences wither, so the entire aerial part is cut off. After some time, the foliage of this species grows back.
On the eve of wintering, the bushes are pruned, leaving stumps no higher than 10-12 cm. Both natural species and most varieties are considered winter-hardy and do not need additional shelter.
However, many gardeners advise mulching the soil around varietal plants with dry fallen leaves on the eve of frost.
Attention! In varietal bushes, reverse shoots with leaves often appear, like those of the natural species. They are especially noticeable in variegated varieties. Such shoots should be immediately removed at the very root, otherwise the entire varietal specimen will lose its characteristics and turn into a wild plant.
Diseases and pests
In rainy and cool summers, brunner bushes often develop symptoms of fungal diseases - brown spot or powdery mildew.
At the first manifestations, it is necessary to remove the areas of plants affected by the fungus and treat all plantings with Bordeaux mixture or other suitable fungicidal preparation.
To prevent these diseases, treatment with phytosporin is used twice a month.
Of the pests on bushes, brunners most often notice aphids, leafmining moths and whiteflies.
Their larvae can quickly destroy the succulent greenery of a perennial, so the plants are immediately sprayed with systemic insecticides, for example, actellik or karbofos.
Sometimes the lush greenery of the bushes suffers from an invasion of slugs, but rodents die after tasting the rhizome of Brunnera, so the plant is often used in areas where there are many voles.
Brunner in landscape design and the best flowerbed partners
The plant is popular for planting along garden paths, often decorates rockeries and alpine coaster.
Brunnera bushes look impressive in multi-terrace areas, planted on the edge of ledges, as well as in the lower tier of “multi-story” flower beds.
In mixborders they are planted in the foreground, favorably shading the tall “neighbors” in the background.
As partners next to Brunnera, you can often find mountain weed, mysterious ferns, filigree crown, thin foliage of bear's onion, bright inflorescences primroses, persistent hellebores.
A special cheerful tone for flower beds is set by planting brunners next to bright primroses - yellow daffodils, tulips blazing with a scarlet flame, delicate curly hyacinths, blue muscari.
Compositions with generally recognized shade dwellers - astilbes - look great, as well as multi-colored milkweeds, heucheras, and lungworts.
To decorate a semi-shaded area, Brunnera is an indispensable plant, especially its varieties with originally decorated silver-green leaves.
Unpretentiousness and minimal care add advantages in favor of choosing a flower for planting on many personal plots, flower beds near country houses and country flower beds in the middle zone.
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