Rhododendrons have always been considered flowers fabulous beauty, not fitting into the boundaries of everyday life and ubiquity. They belong to the heather family. They are planted in rock gardens, near water bodies, rocky hills, near conifers or in solitary groups. Wherever rhododendrons are planted, they will create a fairy tale everywhere, especially they will fit into.
This plant has hundreds of varieties, there are creeping (up to 10 cm in height), tall (up to 30 m in height), and a large palette of colors will allow you to choose the missing element for your flower garden. Rhododendrons are a little capricious, so for lush flowering you need to put in a little effort.
Place and soil
Depending on the variety of rhododendron, choose a place for planting. Most of them are sun-loving, but some varieties grow well in the open with a diffuse midday shadow or near buildings on the north side. The site must be protected from the wind, it must not be planted in drafts (corners of buildings). Wind protection can be hedges, conifers. It is undesirable to plant near trees so that their deep root system did not take all the nutrients for herself, but if this is not possible, then the landing pit must be protected with roofing material or slate sheets.
The soil for planting rhododendrons should be acidic, the acidity level should be in the range of pH 4.5-5.5, with deep occurrence ground water(at least 1 m), can be done good drainage or plant on high beds. A good soil will be from equal parts of loam, pine cushion and high-moor peat. At the same time, it is desirable to have a reservoir near or regularly spray the flowers with water, since they love moisture, but there is no waterlogging.
Landing
In the spring, dig a planting hole 40 cm deep, 60-80 cm in diameter, depending on the size of the variety. The distance between plants for low-growing 0.5 m, for medium-sized 1-1.2 m, for tall 1.5-2 m. Mix the prepared soil well, pour drainage (gravel or broken brick) with a layer of 10 cm and fill the hole with substrate. pay attention to important point: the substrate should not contain impurities of black earth, manure, sawdust, humus, lowland peat, lime, ash, 
dolomite flour and other components that change the acidity of the soil towards alkali.
Before planting, dip the roots of rhododendrons into water and leave until the process of bubbling is over. Then dig a hole in the filled hole corresponding to the size of the root system, plant the plant and compact the soil around. The root neck is not deepened. Water well, mulch with pine bark, moss or peat with a layer of at least 5 cm. Do not use maple and chestnut leaves as mulch, as they will change the pH level after decomposition. When mulching, do not cover the root collar. To prevent the wind from breaking a young rhododendron bush, drive a stake into the soil, which can be removed after rooting.
1 - rhododendron planted too small; 2 - rhododendron planted too deep; 3 - correctly planted rhododendron.
Care
Before rooting, water rhododendron seedlings in small portions of 3 liters per plant, in dry weather, daily in the morning or evening. You can even water the leaves. For this, it is desirable to use river or rain water, occasionally adding sulfuric acid to maintain the required pH. Hard water can be softened by adding 2-3 handfuls of high-moor peat to a barrel of water and insisting for a day. In August, reduce watering to a minimum so that shoots do not start re-growth.
Transplantation at the age of 5-6 years is not terrible for rhododendrons, the time for this is not important (except for winter).
Remove faded inflorescences and dry branches. It is much faster and easier to break off the inflorescences than to cut with scissors. To do this, bend it and the fragile axis will break. Carry out the operation carefully so as not to break the young shoots at the base of the inflorescences. To replace the faded inflorescence, 2-3 new ones will come. If you need rhododendron seeds, then you do not need to remove the inflorescences.
It is impossible to loosen around the bushes, so as not to damage the superficially located root system. You will not have to remove weeds if mulching has been done.
Rhododendrons are fed with Kemira-universal granular fertilizer (1 matchbox per 1 sq.m around the bush with its height up to 40 cm). Fertilize from May to mid-June every 14 days, last days June add potassium sulfate (for young plants, dissolve 5 g of the drug in 10 liters of water, for adults 10 g, use per 1 sq.m). Since July, rhododendrons do not fertilize. It is better not to use foreign fertilizers, as they are designed for their own climatic conditions.
It is only necessary to cover low-growing varieties with spruce branches for the winter; for other varieties, you will have to build “shelter houses” or “dress” special ones.
Update mulching annually with high-moor peat or coniferous litter, without falling asleep at the base of the bush. A layer of mulch for rhododendrons 80 cm high should be 10-15 cm. Be sure to follow.
Reproduction of rhododenrons
by the most simple ways reproduction of rhododenrons are considered cuttings and layering. But seed propagation and division of the bush can also be practiced.
cuttings. In early July, cut cuttings 10-15 cm long from the shoots in the upper part of the plant, making the cut oblique. Cut off the lower leaves, leaving only a couple of upper ones, and soak for a day in a growth stimulator (Heteroauxin), after which the cuttings are planted in a box and covered with a film, thus creating the necessary humid microclimate for better growth root system. Prepare the soil mixture from equal parts of sand and peat. Plant obliquely, at an angle of 30 °, deepening by 2-3 cm.
Water the cuttings for 2-3 months, monitor the air temperature (25-30 ° C) and organize additional illumination. When the rooting of the cuttings takes place, they will need to be transplanted into separate pots with an acidic substrate consisting of rotted needles and peat. 14 days after transplantation, fertilize with urea and lower the room temperature to 15-18°C. If buds appear, remove. In spring, seedlings can be moved to the garden.
layering. This method of propagation of rhododendrons is good because new plants are already adapted to the environment and development proceeds much faster. In the spring, make a groove and bend down the lowest shoots of the rhododendron so that the upper part remains on the surface. Fasten the bending point with a bracket, and make an incision in the shoot itself so that roots form from it by autumn. Tie the top to the peg, and sprinkle the groove with the shoot with soil and water it. Already next spring young plant can be separated from the mother and transplanted to permanent place.
seeds. In early March, mix the rhododendron seeds with sand and put them in boxes on the soil. This is done for uniform germination, since the seeds are very small and if they are sown in the soil to a depth of 2 cm or more, they will not sprout. Pour generously and cover with clear glass.
The key to successful seedlings is temperature regime(18-22°), air humidity (100%), daily airing and watering. Seeds do not germinate if they have been dried at least once. The first shoots appear after 21 days. When the majority seedlings will sprout temperature should be reduced to 12°C.
The picking is carried out in June when the first two or three pairs of leaves appear, deepening the sprouts to the level of the cotyledons and maintaining a distance between plants of 2-3 cm. Water with melted or settled water during the day. During the summer season, young plants should be on outdoors. In autumn, plants with leaves in the amount of 5-10 pieces are transplanted into small pots and transferred to a warm room (18-20 ° C) for the winter.
At the beginning of March, a second pick is carried out, keeping a distance of 4-5 cm. After 10-14 days, foliar top dressing with humate is carried out. The second top dressing should be carried out in the summer with Kemira-universal. When watering, sometimes add a solution of foundationazole to prevent fungal diseases. And only in the third year, after the end of the return frosts, rhododendrons can be transplanted into open ground. If flowering occurs at this time, then remove the flowers so that in the future, having accumulated strength, rhododendrons can please you with abundant flowering. For the winter they cover with spruce branches or peat.
The division of the bush. Dig up a bush and with a sharp shovel or knife, divide it into several parts. Then plant for growing in prepared soil for 2 years to form new shoots.
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No wonder botanists consider rhododendron the king of shrubs, and the Japanese call it the "bush of temptations." Translated from Greek, this is a "rose tree" (rhodon-rose, dendron - tree), but it can be not only pink, but also purple, yellow - depending on the variety.
Quite large flowers-skirts are collected in umbrellas and are so magnificent that sometimes leaves are not visible behind them! This is a luxurious decoration for any garden. Including the suburban.
Of the 600 species found in nature, 18 grow on the territory of the former Soviet Union. Almost all are listed in the Red Book as endangered. So, replenishing the number of rhododendrons is a good thing.
How to plant rhododendrons
Rhododendron is a finicky shrub. He likes to be played by his own rules. It doesn't grow anywhere.
Hardened strong men can take root in the Moscow region. Choice of location and soil for rhododendron. The royal shrub prefers a place in partial shade, without drafts and stagnant water. However, deciduous varieties put up with direct sun.
But all varieties are demanding on the soil. It must be acidic! That is, based on peat. If you have clay soils, make a wide and not very deep hole and fill it with the mixture.
The basis is peat, then coniferous, leafy soil and river sand in the ratio 3:1:2:1. Or peat, sawdust, sand - 2:1:1. On sandy soils, the pit is made deeper and filled with the same mixture. It would be nice to add complex fertilizer to the mixture. And sulfur, which acidifies the soil.
Otherwise, nitrogen deficiency, drying of the leaves. Before planting, immerse the container with the seedling in water, saturate it with water and plant. Water abundantly, making an earthen roller so that the water does not leave. Fertilize early in the summer.
When planting, the neck does not need to be deepened and raised above the previous level! Rhododendrons do not tolerate drought. If it is not possible to monitor the frequency of watering, it is better not to experiment with them. An adult bush is watered 2-3 times a week, 10 liters each.
Young - more often, but not so abundantly. Increase watering during flowering. And in the heat they spray.
The water must be acidic. To do this, add oxalic or citric acid) - 3-4 g per 10 liters of water or 9% vinegar - 30 g per bucket of water. Loosen the ground carefully: the root system is superficial. Can be mulched with sawdust 5-7 cm, better in autumn(additional insulation).
You should not plant rhododendrons next to deciduous trees: they take away food from each other. But pines, junipers, arborvitae, larches, heathers are wonderful neighbors. In addition, they acidify the soil.
Wintering of rhododendrons
Many varieties of rhododendrons go into the winter, not being afraid of either frost or cold weather. For example, "Haaga". But it's still better to cover them up.
Especially those whose frost resistance you are not sure about. In the fall, before the cold starts, water the plants well. Rhododendrons are covered with spruce branches, matting, lutrasil.
Evergreens are afraid not so much of frost as of bright spring sun, which burns sleepy foliage. They need to be shaded. When the "rose tree" gives the first bouquets, do not leave the inflorescences withered. It takes a lot of effort to set seeds.
It is better if the plant spends them on its growth. Competent gardeners have a rule: in the first year, do not let the shrubs bloom, remove all buds. This is beneficial for the plant, and next year it blooms much more magnificently.
|
Daurian rhododendron deciduous shrub not more than 2 m high |
blooms with pink fragrant flowers in April-May |
Rhododendron Smirnov evergreen, height about 2 m Rootstock cultivation. Rhododendrons |
Rhododendron yellow deciduous, height 1.5 m |
in a "bouquet" of 7-12 yellow or orange flowers, blooms - May-June |
Rhododendron Katevbinsky tall, sprawling, evergreen |
lilac flowers with a greenish tint, up to 20 in inflorescence |
Rhododendron - University of Helsinki, evergreen, withstands temperatures down to -40°C |
light pink and rose red colors, blooms profusely in early summer |
Rhododendron dense low, for alpine slides, blooms in late spring and possibly again in early autumn |
small purple-blue flowers |
Rhododendron - elite, also low, drought-resistant, blooms in April-May, withstands frost down to -35 ° C |
Other varieties of rhododendrons and photos of flowers
Rhododendron obtuse - Rhododendron obtusion
Semi-evergreen bushy shrub. Blooms in the second half of May - early June. The flowers are about 3 cm in diameter. The leaves are completely preserved under deep snow, partially dry in winters with little snow.
Hybrid varieties are called “Japanese azaleas” for sale and even give them the Latin name Azalea japonica, which is actually one of the synonyms for the Japanese rhododendron - a completely different species. Varieties have the same compact habit, but varied colors. Winter hardiness varies: the most resistant are "Ledicanense" (light lilac), "Maruschka" and "Melina" (crimson). "Rosinetta" and "Babuschka" (pink terry), "Schneeperle" (white), "Satschiko" (salmon), "Sazava" (purple).
Rhododendron planting, care and cultivation
This plant is unusually beautiful, which can compete with the queen of flowers, the rose. Rhododendron is distinguished by an abundance of flower colors, an abundance of flowering, and planting and caring for a plant is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance.
The plant can grow in the form of big bush, and sometimes in the form of a tree and belongs to the heather family. During flowering, the rhododendron looks especially chic. The flowers of the plant look like bells, which are collected in inflorescences and located at the tips of the branches.
There can be up to 25 flowers in one inflorescence and one branch will look like a big beautiful bouquet. For some time it was believed that rhododendron can only grow in a warm climate, however, thanks to breeders, varieties have been bred that feel great in middle regions. Varieties have also been bred that can be successfully grown in areas of the north. By purchasing a rhododendron, you can successfully decorate your garden in an unusual way. beautiful bush, or a tree with chic flowers.
Rhododendron varieties
In our regions, such varieties of rhododendron as Daursky and Canadian are most often grown. Daurian rhododendron grows in the form of a large shrub about two meters. The leaves of this variety are quite small and grow upwards.
For the winter, not all leaves fall off the Dahurian rhododendron, some of them remain on the branches. The flowers are large, bright with a pink-purple color. Flowering lasts about a month, and if you're lucky, it can bloom a second time in the fall.
Unfortunately, this variety grows very slowly, but it normally tolerates frosts, and besides, it is easy to propagate using cuttings. The Canadian rhododendron looks like a small bush that grows no more than one meter. The leaves are large, and the flowers have a pleasant pink-purple color, and no more than five flowers are collected in one inflorescence. It normally tolerates frosts, it can be grown even in colder, northern regions. Unfortunately, for summer residents who have their own apiary, it is better to refuse to grow rhododendrons, or cover the plants while flowering continues (which is not very convenient)
Rhododendron planting and care
As for growing conditions, the rhododendron feels best in partial shade of trees, although it will not be bad if you plant the plant in the light. Best of all, rhododendrons grow near conifers.
Rhododendron cultivation, planting and care
Unfortunately, any variety of rhododendrons grows very slowly, but for many years it can retain its beauty in one place. For successful cultivation Rhododendrons need to choose soil with an acidic environment, which contains a lot of nutrients.
In addition, the soil for planting rhododendrons should be light, air and water permeable. Excess moisture or stagnant water is detrimental to the plant. Rhododendrons do not like alkaline soil, or soil with neutral acidity.
For landing, the most favorable place is where peat soil. The plant does not like the presence of chlorine in the ground. The roots of the shrub are small, compact, and shallow, keep this in mind when caring for rhododendron and try to loosen it not deep and very carefully so as not to damage the roots. dig the earth around the trunk of the plant.
To protect the soil from drying out, it is better to put a layer of peat mulch on the trunk circles, or it is better to use coniferous litter with an acidic reaction. Plants easily tolerate planting and even transplanting. Planting rhododendron is best done in the spring.
To plant a rhododendron, first dig a planting hole to a depth of about 60 cm and a width of 70 cm. in those places where blueberries grow), a little humus and half a bucket of river sand are added to all this. During planting, make sure that the root neck is above ground level, and the soil itself around the neck needs to be well compacted. After planting, the rhododendron is watered abundantly, and then a layer of mulch from peat, or pine needles is laid, sawdust or tree bark can be used for this purpose. After a year, rotted manure, peat are sprinkled around the plant and lightly buried in the ground.
Mineral fertilizers are also sprinkled around the plant (10 grams of ammonium sulphate and potassium, as well as 10 grams of superphosphate). To provide the plant with acidic soil, you can prepare a special bed in which rhododendron is then planted. Dig a hole and fill it with drainage about 15 cm.
Peat, bark, pine needles and pine needles are poured on top. Fertilizers are added to the soil, everything is mixed well. By planting your rhododendron in such a bed, you provide the root system with an acidic environment for a long time.
Rhododendron Care
Rhododendron care consists in regular weeding, watering, shallow loosening of the soil, and of course, top dressing. Three top dressings are carried out per season. The first time the plant is fed at the end of April with urea and potassium sulfate.
You need to add 3 liters of such a solution to the bush. The second time the plant is fed in the thirties of May with fertilizers for flowering plants with the addition of potassium sulfate. Three liters of diluted fertilizers are consumed per bush (according to the instructions). When the flowering is over, the last top dressing is carried out with minerals such as potassium sulfate and superphosphate.
Rhododendron reproduction
The rhododendron is propagated by cuttings and layering. For propagation by layering, the lowest branches are used. An incision is made on the branch and so that it does not grow together, a small pebble or wooden stick is placed.
A small hole is made under the branch, a part of the branch with an incision is placed, fixed and sprinkled with earth. By autumn, roots should appear at the layer. Separate the layers from the mother plant in the spring next year.
So that the layering does not freeze, and for the winter they cover it with fir paws, or dry leaves. Rhododendron grows very slowly for several years, flowers appear only for 5-6 years. Rhododendron propagates and cuttings, probably this is the most The best way. In summer, in June or July, green cuttings up to 15 cm high are cut off and all the leaves below are removed, and then they are placed in any growth stimulator for a day. After that, the cutting can be planted in the ground, and preferably in soil with an acidic environment.
Fortunately, today a special earthen mixture for rhododendrons is sold in stores, but if you want, you can cook it yourself from a mixture of peat, sand and coniferous earth. When the cuttings are placed in the ground, the pots are covered with oilcloth to create the right microclimate for rooting. After about 2-3 months, a root system is formed.
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Rhododendrons in the garden: cultivation and care
IN foreign literature rhododendrons belong to the group of plants growing in the shade and partial shade. These statements migrated to the domestic literature.
However, growing rhododendrons in shady areas is only appropriate in Western Europe. We will tell you about planting and caring for rhododendrons in middle lane Russia, where summer temperatures are getting hotter and hotter. You will also receive recommendations on the propagation of rhododendrons, replanting and top dressing, learn how to grow rhododendrons in winter, and, of course, you can see photos of rhododendrons in the garden and in landscape design.These plants need warmth not only for growth, but also for laying flower buds.
Therefore, you should choose open sunny places with a diffused shadow at noon so that the rhododendrons do not “burn out” in early spring and in rare years with especially hot summers (you can shade them for this period). For deciduous species, completely open areas are also suitable.
How to plant a rhododendron
Like roses, rhododendrons do not like winds and drafts, so the place must be protected from them, and on the north side it is necessary to provide protection in the form of buildings or plantings of tall plants. In open, unprotected places, evergreen and some deciduous species suffer from the drying effect of the wind in winter. Planting a rhododendron is possible next to trees and tall shrubs, but it should be remembered that rocks with a superficial root system, like birch, linden, maple, are not suitable as neighbors. willows, etc.
Pine trees are excellent neighbors, which create a successful biocenosis with these crops. Before planting a rhododendron, make sure that there are no rose bushes nearby. It is not recommended to plant these plants with roses - they make too different demands on soil conditions.
Rhododendrons in the garden are classic calcephobic plants, and the presence of calcium in the soil or fertilizers is detrimental to them. Therefore, the second condition for the successful cultivation of this crop is the creation of appropriate soil conditions.
How to grow rhododendron
The chosen place should be elevated above the general ground level and well drained (after all, rhododendrons are mountain plants) so that water does not stagnate on the site, especially in early spring during snowmelt and in autumn during prolonged rains. When creating drainage, limestone and other materials containing lime should not be used.
Some gardeners perceive information about the moisture content of these shrubs as the need to flood the plants, creating a kind of swamp. This is another mistake, because excess moisture leads to rotting of the root neck of plants. A special planting hole is prepared for planting, since ordinary garden soil is unsuitable for plants.
Now ready-made planting mixtures for rhododendrons are sold, but you can prepare the mixture yourself. To do this, mix garden soil (loam), humus and high-moor non-deoxidized sphagnum peat (1: 1: 3-4).
It is good to add coniferous litter or medium-sized coniferous shavings to the mixture. Lowland peat is not suitable for this purpose, as it has a dusty structure that contributes to soil compaction.
Without the addition of loam, when the soil is very dry, it is difficult to moisten the soil, the water will spread to the edges, and the lump inside will remain dry. The substrate should turn out to be acidic (pH 4.5-5.5), loose, air and water permeable. Planting pits are made shallow (40-50 cm), since the plants have a compact root system, and the diameter is determined by the size of an adult bush, for large plants it is 80-100 cm. The distance between plants is determined by the diameter of the crown of an adult bush and is calculated as the sum of the radii of the crowns of the bushes.
Rhododendron transplant
You can plant plants at any time of the year, since they should only be purchased with a closed root system. But it is better to transplant rhododendrons in early spring before the flower buds swell or after flowering.
When buying seedlings, pay attention to the following: The soil in the pot should be moist, but not moldy. earthy coma, but so that the earth does not crumble. The bush is planted at the same depth as in the container, in no case deepening the root collar. After planting, it is again abundantly watered and mulched with peat, coniferous litter, and pine bark. Mulching of plantings is mandatory, since in summer it protects the root ball from overheating and drying out, and also prevents the growth of weeds, and in winter it warms the root system.
Rhododendron Care
When caring for rhododendron, weeding plants is carried out manually, you can not loosen and dig the soil under the bushes due to close occurrence roots. It is unacceptable for the earthen clod to dry out, so regular watering must be ensured.
Rhododendron care involves watering with rainwater. If hard water, then it must be softened by acidifying with sulfuric, oxalic, citric or acetic acid. You can reduce the hardness of water by thoroughly mixing sphagnum peat with water and letting the mixture stand for 24 hours.
It is useful to water in the evening by sprinkling, that is, pouring from a watering can with a nozzle directly over the leaves of the plant. In hot, dry weather, sprinkling of plantings should be arranged. In August, watering is sharply reduced or stopped completely in rainy weather, so as not to stimulate the secondary growth of shoots.
It is necessary to ensure that lime, dolomite, ash and other materials that alkalize the soil cannot get into the root nutrition zone. This should be remembered when choosing fertilizers, which in turn should not contain calcium and chlorine.
How to feed rhododendron
With a properly prepared planting pit, rhododendrons do not need top dressing for the first two years. From the third year, these operations should be carried out regularly.
If you don’t know how to feed the rhododendron, we advise you to use our advice. In early spring, rhododendrons are fed ammonium nitrate, especially when mulching with coniferous litter, and during the budding period two or three times with a water-soluble complex fertilizer such as Fertika Lux, which does not contain calcium. At the end of August, it is useful to feed with potassium sulfate to increase winter hardiness. Fertilizers are applied in liquid form.
The easiest option for top dressing is to use long-acting fertilizers that are applied once a season. The second application recommended by some manufacturers should not be done so as not to stimulate secondary growth, and top dressing with potassium sulfate is preserved. As a rule, rhododendrons in the Moscow region are not affected by pests and diseases . The only thing that can be observed is chlorosis associated with an increase in soil acidity.
Chlorosis manifests itself in the form of yellowing of the leaves and is easily eliminated by acidifying the substrate by watering with acidified water. In order not to bring pests and diseases to your site, when buying a plant, you should carefully examine it.
Rhododendrons in winter
Before winter, the thickness of the mulching material should be increased to cover the root system. For evergreen rhododendrons in late autumn, before the onset of winter, rhododendrons need moisture-charging watering.
If evergreen rhododendrons are planted in open areas or varieties that winter poorly in our climate are used, then they are covered with non-woven material (lutrasil, spandbond, etc.) so that the plants do not get burned in early spring. To shelter rhododendrons in winter, it is necessary to use a rigid frame so that the snow does not break the branches of plants.
After snow falls, bushes should be covered with them. In the spring, when the earth completely thaws, the shelter is removed. At temperatures below -1 ° C, the leaves of evergreen rhododendrons are twisted into a tube. Do not be alarmed, this protects the plant from excessive evaporation of moisture and dehydration, and falling snow does not linger on the shoots, reducing the likelihood of branches breaking, and “wraps” the root system.
Photos of rodendrons in the garden and landscape design
Rhododendrons are decorative all season long. Evergreen species bring an exotic southern flavor to the garden. Leathery evergreen leaves and beautiful bushes cause admiration even without flowers.
Deciduous rhododendrons are beautiful not only during flowering, but also after it, thanks to the neat shape of the bush and beautiful pubescent foliage. In autumn, the bushes again attract the attention of the beautiful color of the foliage.
In some varieties, it becomes yellow-green, in others it turns yellow, and still others dress in autumn crimson, sparkling with various burgundy-red tones. Therefore, the simplest, but not the most “simple” solution would be to plant in freely spaced groups. Groups of rhododendrons in landscape design are selected according to the color of the flowers, as well as the shape and size of the bushes.
The optimal number of plants in a group is three to seven; on large areas, the number of plants can be increased. Varieties with different colors should not be planted in a group. The resulting variegation will "kill" spectacular flowering.
Solid arrays of these plants also look colorful. So that the array does not look monotonous, you should select varieties with various form and bush size. At the same time, dwarf rhododendrons are planted in the foreground, such as, for example, the stiff-haired rhododendron and its varieties, followed by low-growing varieties of the Kalinka type, and then tall species and varieties.
When creating groups and arrays, you should not mix deciduous and evergreen plants. When choosing the color of flowers, restraint should be exercised so as not to get unnecessary variegation. Look at the photo of rhododendrons planted in the garden - they have a rich palette of colors.
Evergreen varieties have rich color various nuances pink, purple, purple flowers. Red, yellow and orange varieties of evergreen rhododendrons do not winter in our conditions (the exception is a few), since they owe their color to heat-loving species.
If you like yellow and red colors, then deciduous varieties will bring them to your garden. So colors you are deprived, you will not. It is very good to complement such landings coniferous plants that look organic with rhododendrons.
Preference should be given to pines and junipers. Spruce and arborvitae are good only from the north side for protection from the winds and at a fairly large distance.
And the point is not only in the dense shade from them, but also in the superficial root system, which “clogs” the superficial root system of rhododendrons. Since rhododendrons love high humidity, it is good to plant them near ponds and fountains, where in summer time the most favorable conditions are created. Abroad, rhododendrons are widely used in heather gardens, where they are the main soloists. Unfortunately, this option does not suit us, because heathers and erics are not plants for our climate. But cranberries, lingonberries and blueberries are well suited for such "heather" gardens.
Growing conditions and care for rhododendrons
Rhododendron: planting, growing and caring ... Rhododendrons, just like others cultivated plants, require some care, including transplanting, watering and spraying, weed, disease and pest control, top dressing, bush formation, etc.
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When choosing a rhododendron variety for our site, we must know, first of all, its pedigree. This is necessary in order to understand what to expect from a given species or variety. After all, we want our rhododendron to be a spectacular and beautifully flowering bush every year, and not an unfortunate plant that regularly falls under frost.
Numerous types of rhododendrons differ in their lighting requirements. In general, plants are photophilous, but more often they prefer a slight penumbra. They need moist, well-drained, humus-rich, leafy, acidic soil, so in neutral to alkaline regions, grow rhododendrons in containers or high beds sprinkled with acid heather. Alpine species of rhododendrons are grown in a cool climate on sunny areas; in warm climates, it is preferable to place in partial shade.
Watering is regular, in a dry, hot period - plentiful. Apply acid fertilizer twice a year. Young plants are fed with low concentrations of complex mineral fertilizer. Lime and chlorine should be avoided (see below for top dressing). The soil around the trunk is mulched. Faded inflorescences break off. In the spring, dry branches are removed, shoots are shortened. Evergreen rhododendrons are covered with spruce branches, undersized - with a completely dry oak leaf. In deciduous rhododendrons, branches are bent to the ground so that in winter they are under the snow. In late March - early April, shelters are removed.
With proper care, rhododendrons bloom profusely and bear fruit every year. When flowering and seed formation, plants consume a lot of nutrients, so the one who grows rhododendrons notices the periodicity in their flowering: one year they bloom very profusely, the next - less. To eliminate such periodicity, faded inflorescences are broken off immediately after flowering (if seeds are not needed). This must be done very carefully so as not to break the young fragile shoots at the base of the inflorescences. In this case, the reserve substances available in the plant are used to form new shoots and lay flower buds, which ensures abundant flowering next year.
The faded inflorescence is slightly bent, it easily breaks at the base. Removing faded inflorescences contributes to the formation of a more lush bush, since after this operation, at least 2-3 new shoots are formed on the bush. If the faded inflorescences are not removed, but left to obtain seeds, then, as a rule, only one shoot is formed at the base of the inflorescence, and that without a flower bud.
Planting or transplanting rhododendrons
It is better to plant a rhododendron bush in the spring, either before the start of growth, or at the very beginning of the spring awakening of the plant. The most suitable time for their transplantation in our conditions is April - the first half of May. If necessary, rhododendrons can be planted at any other time of the year, but no later than the beginning of September (preferably with a closed root system). It is unacceptable to plant / transplant rhododendron during the flowering period or in late autumn. In rhododendrons, unlike others ornamental trees and shrubs, during transplantation, the root system is practically not damaged, the connection between the roots of plants and the substrate is not lost.
If one or more specimens are planted, then for each plant or each small group, a landing pit of the required size is prepared, that is, approximately twice as wide and twice as deep as the root ball of rhododendrons. In group plantings, the distance between plants (in blooming form) should be such that their crowns barely touch. If the root balls of the rhododendrons to be transplanted have dried up, they should be immersed in water for several hours so that they are well saturated with water.
The place for planting rhododendrons should be protected from winds and direct sunlight. They are prepared in advance, in the fall, and planted in the spring. When planting rhododendrons near big trees the pit should be insulated with slate, plastic, tin or two layers of roofing material.
It is necessary to prepare the soil in an appropriate way. Mixing of all components can be carried out outside the pit, and the pit can be filled with a completely prepared substrate. Sour sphagnum peat, semi-decomposed manure, deciduous soil, heather soil, pine needles and others are poured into the dug hole. organic materials. It is not necessary to have all of the above components; you can get by with several or even one material, such as peat. 1/2 of the pit is filled with organic materials, and the rest of the volume is filled with mineral soil dug during the preparation of the pit. Complete mineral fertilizer is added to these components at the rate of 2-3 kg per 1 m3 of substrate.
We can advise the following substrate options for rhododendrons: leafy ground, high peat, litter coniferous trees in proportion (3:2:1); heather, leaf earth, coarse sand (3:1:1); sod land, sphagnum peat, coarse sand (1:4:1). Various other combinations of the components of the acidic fertile substrate necessary for the rhododendron are also used. A few large aged sawdust can be poured into the substrate; it would be nice to mix pieces of broken red brick into it to retain moisture. Drainage can only be omitted on unflooded and well-drained sandy soils. If necessary, drainage is poured into the bottom of the pit (pebbles, crushed granite, broken red brick, fragments of slate, etc.) with a layer of about 10 cm. The following materials are not suitable as drainage for rhododendrons (due to their calcium content): crushed limestone, pieces of concrete, broken white brick.
In a new place, rhododendrons are planted at the same depth at which they grew in the nursery; the root neck of the plant cannot be deepened, this weakens it. Planting rhododendrons is carried out as follows. A plant is planted in a prepared hole of the appropriate size, the space around the root ball is filled with a substrate, which is slightly compacted so that there is no void left, and the root ball is covered on top thin layer(no more than 5 cm) of the substrate.
After transplanting, rhododendrons are watered abundantly. After watering, the soil should be wet to a depth of at least 20 cm. On rainy days, when the soil is wet, and relative humidity air reaches 100%, watering is not required. If the plants have a height of 30-40 cm, at least 5 liters of water are needed for irrigation after transplantation, and if the plants reach a height of 50-100 cm, at least 10 liters of water are required.
To prevent water from spreading when watering, a small roller of mulch is made around the planted plant. Mulching is carried out immediately after watering. Sphagnum peat, pine needles, leaves, especially oak, and other organic materials can be used as mulch, which, after decomposition, increase the amount of humus and increase the acidity of the soil.
With solitary plantings, when rhododendrons are planted on the lawn one at a time, so that the wind does not shake the plants that have not yet taken root, it is necessary to stick a stake into the soil, tilted against the direction of the prevailing winds, and tie a bush to it. When the plant takes root, the stake is removed.
Do I need pruning rhododendrons
Unlike others ornamental shrubs rhododendrons have a bush of the correct beautiful shape, so pruning should be minimal. Even after transplantation, rhododendrons do not require pruning, as they are transplanted with a large root ball and the activity of the roots practically does not stop. Rhododendrons propagated from seeds should not be cut before the first flowering.
Sometimes you have to intervene in this process: when updating old bushes, if necessary, reduce the height of large bushes, when leaves and shoots freeze. In young seedlings, the central vegetative buds are plucked out to form a sprawling bush.
Pruning is necessary when the plants are so tall and spreading that they close the windows, block the paths in the garden ... The bushes are pruned in the place where the thickness of the shoots reaches 2-4 cm. Immediately after pruning the branches, the wounds should be covered with garden pitch or oil paint so that the wounded places do not dry out and become infected. After 3-4 weeks, dormant buds that are on the shoots awaken, the renewal of the old bush begins. A year later, the plant restores decorativeness.
If it is necessary to update very old plants, they are pruned at a height of 30-40 cm from the ground. At the same height, plants are cut that are badly damaged during severe frosts or badly broken. In the first year, one half of the bush is cut, and the next year the second. In this case, the update process proceeds better.
The bushes should be cut very early in the spring (in the climatic conditions of our country at the end of March or the first half of April). Branches should be cut near dormant buds. Cut bushes during the growing season should be regularly fed and watered abundantly.
Top dressing of rhododendrons
Some experts believe that rhododendrons should not be fed at all in the first year. Subsequently, top dressing is necessary not only for young plants, but also for old flowering specimens. Rhododendrons are slow growing plants with shallow, compact root systems, so they cannot tolerate high concentrations of mineral salts. This circumstance must be taken into account when feeding them.
Rhododendrons are fed mainly in early spring and immediately after flowering - at the beginning and during the active growth of young shoots. It is desirable that top dressing be liquid, specially designed for these plants.
They respond well to the common granular fertilizer "Kemira-universal". It is used in dry form, evenly scattered around plants at the rate of 1 Matchbox per sq. meter. This dosage is necessary for shrubs up to 40 cm high. If the rhododendrons are larger, the amount of fertilizer is doubled.
At the end of June, rhododendrons are fed for the last time with potassium sulfate at the rate of 5 g (1 teaspoon) per 1 sq. meter, dissolved in 10 liters of water for young rhododendrons and 10 g for adults. Do not fertilize in July and August!
It is better not to use imported long-acting granular fertilizers. They are designed, as a rule, for the fact that there are six warm months in a year. And with our short summer, top dressing with such fertilizers can lead to secondary growth in August and, accordingly, freezing of unripened shoots. Do not use ash as a fertilizer, because. it reduces the acidity of the soil, and this causes chlorosis - yellowing of the leaf plate between the veins.
Reproduction of rhododendrons
Rhododendrons are propagated by seeds, cuttings, layering. Sow seeds in spring. The first picking is carried out in June. February-March of the following year make a second pick. In the third year after sowing, seedlings are planted in the ground for growing. They bloom for 4-5 years. For cuttings, semi-lignified cuttings are used, which are cut in the second half of June. Cuttings should be treated with a growth stimulator. After two years, the plants are planted in open ground.
Rhododendron plants can be damaged by rust, leaf spot, root rot. Of pests can bother spider mite... (to be continued)
LANDING AND CARE
Landing. Everyone who is engaged or wants to grow rhododendrons, the question arises, when is the best time to transplant rhododendrons, how to feed them, what kind of care do they require? More than 20 years of experience in the cultivation of rhododendrons in the Botanical Garden of Leningrad State University. P. Stuchki showed that the most suitable time for transplanting rhododendrons in our republic is spring (April - the first half of May) and autumn (September-November), when young shoots have finished growing and strengthened. If necessary, rhododendrons can be planted at any other time of the year, excluding periods of flowering and immediately after flowering, when intensive shoot growth begins. Such a wide range of rhododendron transplant times is due to the compactness of their root system and the density of the root ball. In rhododendrons, unlike other ornamental trees and shrubs, the root system is practically not damaged during transplantation, the connection between the plant roots and the substrate is not lost.
Thus, if the landing site is chosen and prepared correctly, then the transplanted rhododendrons in the new place grow just as well as in the old one. In long-term plantations should be planted only healthy plants with well developed compact root system. In group plantings, the distance between plants (flowering) should be such that their crowns barely touch.
Already before purchasing rhododendrons, you need to know what place in the garden will be reserved for their planting, and it is best to be guided by the landscaping project developed by specialists. The place for planting rhododendrons should be protected from the prevailing winds and from the direct burning rays of the sun, the soil should be prepared accordingly.
Before planting, rhododendrons should be watered abundantly. Well-watered rhododendrons tolerate transportation and transplanting better. If the root balls of the rhododendrons to be transplanted have dried up, they should be immersed in water for several hours so that they are well saturated with water.
Before planting rhododendrons, the soil should be carefully prepared. In nurseries or if rhododendrons are planted in large groups, the soil is prepared over the entire area. If one or more specimens are planted, then for each plant or each small group, a landing pit of the required size is prepared, that is, approximately twice as wide and twice as deep as the root ball of rhododendrons. When planting rhododendrons near large trees, the pit should be insulated with slate, plastic, tin or two layers of roofing material. Sour sphagnum peat, semi-decomposed manure, deciduous soil, heather soil, pine needles and other organic materials are poured into the dug hole. It is not necessary that all of the named components be present; you can get by with several or even one material, for example, peat. 1/2 of the pit is filled with organic materials, and the rest of the volume is filled with mineral soil dug during the preparation of the pit. Complete mineral fertilizer is added to these components at the rate of 2-3 kg per 1 m3 of substrate. Then all the components in the pit are thoroughly mixed. Mixing can also be carried out outside the pit, and the pit can be filled with a completely prepared substrate. The landing site should be prepared in advance, in the fall, and rhododendrons should be planted in the spring.
Rice. 15. Planting rhododendrons: 1 - rhododendron planted too small; 2 - rhododendron planted too deep; 3 - correctly planted rhododendron.
Planting rhododendrons is carried out as follows. In the prepared pit, they dig a cell corresponding to the size of the root ball of the rhododendron, and plant the plant in this cell. The space around the root ball is filled with a substrate, which is slightly compacted so that there is no void left, and the top of the root ball is covered with a thin layer (no more than 5 cm) of the substrate. In a new place, rhododendrons are planted at the same depth at which they grew in the nursery (Fig. 15). After transplanting, rhododendrons are watered abundantly. On rainy days, when the soil is wet and the relative humidity reaches 100%, watering is not required. The amount of water for irrigation depends on the size of the plants. If the plants have a height of 30-40 cm, at least 5 liters of water are needed for irrigation after transplantation, and if the plants reach a height of 50-100 cm, at least 10 liters of water are required. After watering, the soil should be wet to a depth of at least 20 cm. To prevent water from spreading during irrigation, a small mulch roller is made around the planted plant. Mulching is carried out immediately after watering. Sphagnum peat, pine needles, leaves, especially oak, and other organic materials can be used as mulch, which, after decomposition, increase the amount of humus and increase the acidity of the soil.
If rhododendrons planted in a permanent place have a lot of flower buds, some of them should be broken off so that plants that have not yet fully rooted do not spend much-needed nutrients and moisture on flowering. A few flower buds can be left, so that when flowering you can appreciate the beauty of the planted plant.
With solitary plantings, when rhododendrons are planted on the lawn one at a time, so that the wind does not shake the plants that have not yet taken root, it is necessary to stick a stake into the soil, tilted against the direction of the prevailing winds, and tie a bush to it (Fig. 16). When the plant takes root, the stake is removed.
Rice. 16. After planting, rhododendrons are strengthened to resist the wind.
Care. Rhododendrons, like other cultivated plants, require certain care, including watering and spraying, weed, disease and pest control, top dressing, bush formation, etc.
If the rhododendrons are planted in the right place, in well-prepared soil, and if mulching is done after planting, then minimal care is required. Loosening the soil directly around the plants is unacceptable, since during these works it is easy to damage the surface root system. If individual weeds appear, they should be pulled out and left there under the bush. It is very important that in the first year after transplantation, rhododendrons are well supplied with water. On hot summer days, when dry weather lasts for a long time, the leaves of rhododendrons become dull, lethargic, lose turgor and droop. This is a signal indicating that the root ball has dried up and the plants need to be watered and sprayed with water immediately. If this is not done, the drying process of the plants continues, the leaves turn yellow, then turn brown along the edges and along the midrib, dry out and die. It is often mistakenly believed that brown spots testify to some fungal disease However, the only reason for their appearance is the lack of water. It is very important to prevent such a situation, since with a long-term water deficit, the annual growth of new shoots is negligible, flower buds are not laid, there is a mass fall of older leaves, the plant loses a lot in decorativeness.
Rhododendrons are especially sensitive to water deficiency in the first year after transplantation. This is explained by the fact that the root ball is still small, the capillary system that connects the root ball with the deeper layers of the soil has not yet fully formed. Appearance plants accurately tells what the water regime of the soil is at the present time. At the first sign of water deficiency, you should immediately start watering. Watering is continued until the soil gets wet to the depth of the root ball, i.e., 20-30 cm, then watering is stopped and the plants are given the opportunity to restore water balance.
The normal growth and development of rhododendrons can be hindered by excess moisture in the soil. This usually happens when there is insufficient drainage. heavy soils. With an excess of water in the soil, the roots of plants feel an acute lack of oxygen, the leaves begin to turn yellow, wither, and the older ones fall off. External signs are the same as during a drought. Rhododendrons are very sensitive to high humidity soil, they cannot tolerate standing water. Therefore, in the places where rhododendrons are planted, there should be well-functioning drainage, which can eliminate excess water in a few hours. If the water stagnates for several days, then this can lead to the mass death of rhododendrons. Often, newly planted rhododendrons are watered too abundantly. It should be remembered that water in plants that have not yet taken root does not enter as quickly as in those that have been growing in one place for a long time. If the soil is damp and the leaves and young shoots wither, then there is too much water in the soil, the roots of the plants do not have enough air, and watering should be stopped. But if hot, dry weather persists, then instead of watering, you need to spray the leaves.
The frequency of watering depends not only on meteorological conditions, but also on where the rhododendrons are planted, how carefully the soil is prepared. The more correct the choice of location, the better prepared the substrate, the less you need to water the rhododendrons. It goes without saying that soft, preferably acidified water should be used for irrigation. How to carry out acidification of water, it was said above.
Rhododendrons require abundant watering not only in summer, during active growth and development. At the end of the growing season, before the onset of frost, rhododendrons, and especially evergreens, should be well watered so that they meet the winter at maximum saturation with moisture. This will help the plants fight against winter drought and overwinter better.
When growing rhododendrons, one should not forget about such an important agricultural technique as soil mulching. We have already talked about the need for mulching when transplanting rhododendrons. However, the soil should also be mulched where rhododendrons have been growing for several years. A layer of mulch covering the root system of plants helps them to overwinter better. In the plantings of rhododendrons, no organic plant remains should be removed - fallen leaves, small branches, bark, etc. Over time, a layer of loose, sour, rich nutrients substrate, intensively used by plants, since their surface root system gradually, from year to year, penetrates into upper layer substrate. This natural layer, like mulch, protects the root system of rhododendrons from frost, especially in snowless winters.
A layer of mulch delays the evaporation of water from the soil, protects the root system from freezing, prevents the growth of weeds, and increases the humus content in the surface layer of the soil. As a material for mulching, you can use bedding sphagnum peat, semi-decomposed manure, pine needles, forest floor, heather, as well as leaves of oak, ash, beech, birch, linden, alder. It is undesirable to use maple and horse chestnut leaves, as they quickly decompose and give an alkaline reaction.
How thick should the mulch layer be? It depends on the height of the plants. So, German scientists found that for rhododendrons up to 50 cm high, a 4-6 cm mulch layer is sufficient, for plants 50-80 cm high, the mulch layer should be 6-10 cm, and for plants more than 80 cm high, the mulch layer should be 10 -15 cm. If the height of the plant is more than 200 cm, then the mulch layer can reach 30 cm. In spring, the mulch layer around the plants is reduced or completely removed.
Unlike other ornamental shrubs, rhododendrons have a regular bush shape, so pruning should be minimal. Even after transplantation, rhododendrons do not require pruning, as they are transplanted with a large root ball and the activity of the roots practically does not stop.
Usually, rhododendrons themselves, without human intervention, form a beautifully shaped bush, but sometimes you have to intervene in this process: when updating old bushes, if necessary, reduce the height of large bushes, when leaves and shoots freeze. In young seedlings, the central vegetative buds are plucked out to form a sprawling bush.
How to prune large old rhododendron bushes? Pruning is necessary when the plants are so tall and spreading that they close the windows, block the paths in the garden, etc. The bushes are pruned in the place where the thickness of the shoots reaches 2-4 cm. Immediately after cutting the branches, the wounds should be covered with garden pitch or oil paint so that the wounded places do not dry out and become infected. After 3-4 weeks, dormant buds that are on the shoots awaken, the renewal of the old bush begins. A year later, the plant restores decorativeness.
If it is necessary to update very old plants, they are pruned at a height of 30-40 cm from the ground. Plants that have been badly damaged during severe frosts or badly broken are also cut at the same height. In the first year, one half of the bush is cut, and the next year the second. In this case, the update process proceeds better.
The bushes should be cut very early in the spring (in the climatic conditions of our republic at the end of March or the first half of April). Branches should be cut near dormant buds (Fig. 17). Cut bushes during the growing season should be regularly fed and watered abundantly.
Rhododendrons propagated from seeds should not be cut before the first flowering. Experience of the Botanical Garden of Leningrad State University P. Stuchki showed that pruning plants that never bloomed delays their flowering by 2-3 years.
Rice. 17. Formation of a rhododendron bush: 1 - uncircumcised bush; 2 - bush after pruning; 3- correct pruning escape; 4 renewing pruning of rhododendron.
At proper care rhododendrons bloom and bear fruit profusely every year. During flowering and seed formation, plants consume a lot of nutrients. Anyone who grows rhododendrons notices the periodicity in their flowering: one year rhododendrons bloom very profusely, and the next year less. To eliminate such periodicity, if seeds are not needed, faded inflorescences are broken out immediately after flowering. In this case, the reserve substances available in the plant are used to form new shoots and lay flower buds, which ensures abundant flowering next year. To break out a faded inflorescence, it is slightly bent down, holding it with the thumb and forefinger. At the same time, the fragile axis of the inflorescence breaks easily at the base. In this way, faded inflorescences are removed much faster than with a knife or scissors. This work should be carried out carefully and carefully so as not to break off the young, fragile shoots at the base of the inflorescences. Removing faded inflorescences contributes to the formation of a more lush bush, since after this operation, at least 2-3 new shoots are formed on the bush. If the faded inflorescences are not removed, but left to obtain seeds, then, as a rule, only one shoot is formed at the base of the inflorescence, and that without a flower bud.
Top dressing. In order for rhododendrons to bloom profusely and beautifully every year, grow well, develop normally, be healthy and not damaged by pests, they must be properly fertilized. Top dressing is necessary not only for young plants, but also for old flowering specimens. Long time even experts were of the opinion that rhododendrons do not require top dressing, that they grow and bloom well without it. The most daring and determined gardeners at best used well-decomposed manure as fertilizer. There was a strong prejudice against mineral fertilizers, since it was believed that rhododendrons do not tolerate them. With the expansion of knowledge on the mineral nutrition of plants in nurseries, they began to carefully apply mineral fertilizers to feed rhododendrons. Nowadays, no one considers it possible to obtain high-quality planting material rhododendrons without the use of mineral fertilizers.
Mineral fertilizers are necessary not only for rhododendrons growing in nurseries. Those rhododendrons that grow in plantations in a permanent place also need to be fed. Only then will rhododendrons show their beauty - bright, juicy green foliage, abundant flowering, lush habitus. Breeders, using various mineral fertilizers, try to speed up the flowering of hybrids in order to see the results of their work faster.
Rhododendrons are slow growing plants with shallow, compact root systems, so they cannot tolerate high concentrations of mineral salts. This circumstance must be taken into account when feeding rhododendrons.
As the experience of the specialists of the Botanical Garden of the Leningrad State University. P. Stuchka and foreign experts, rhododendrons need to be fertilized already in the first year after transplantation, immediately after the rooting of the transplanted plants. Rhododendrons should be fed mainly in early spring and immediately after flowering - at the beginning and during the active growth of young shoots. It is desirable that the top dressing be liquid.
What external signs of rhododendrons indicate a lack of nutrients? by the most hallmark is a change in the color of the leaves: they become light, their luster decreases, the shoots become yellowish-green, the plants have very small annual growth, flower buds are not laid, in August and early September there is an increased fall of old leaves.
The most accessible and common of organic fertilizers are old semi-rotted manure, horn shavings and blood meal, horse and pig manure are unsuitable, as well as bird droppings as they increase the alkalinity of the soil. Semi-rotted cow manure not only increases the nutritional value of the soil, but also improves its physical properties: the soil becomes looser, its moisture and air permeability and water-holding capacity increase. As organic fertilizers for rhododendrons, horn shavings and horn flour are of great value, which are characterized by a high content of nitrogen and phosphorus and have a long and mild effect, since their decomposition process takes longer than the decomposition of manure.
If organic fertilizers are available in sufficient quantities, then they should be preferred. Like mineral fertilizers, it is desirable to apply organic fertilizers in liquid form. If manure is used, it should be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:15-20, left for several days until active microbiological processes, and only then use for feeding. To fertilize rhododendrons, you can also use slurry, diluting it with water to a light brown color. To increase the phosphorus content in diluted slurry, you need to add 3-4 kg of superphosphate per 100 liters of liquid. When fertilizing rhododendrons with slurry, it is necessary to strictly monitor the reaction of the soil, since this top dressing can change the pH of the substrate. Before top dressing, rhododendrons should be well watered so that the root ball gets wet to the full depth.
If there is semi-decomposed manure on the farm in spring or autumn, it can be poured onto the surface of the soil around each plant in a layer about 5 cm thick. With melting snow or rain moisture, nutrients gradually penetrate into the soil, and the plants receive necessary feeding.
If organic fertilizers are inaccessible or not available at all, then inorganic fertilizers should be oriented.
Mineral fertilizers are essentially concentrates of nutrients, so with a small amount of them, a lot of nutrients are introduced into the soil, needed by plants. Since rhododendrons grow well on acidic soils, for top dressing, mainly physiologically acidic mineral fertilizers (ammonium sulphate, superphosphate, magnesium sulphate, potassium sulphate, calcium sulphate, potassium phosphate, potassium nitrate, etc.) should be used, so as not to disturb the reaction of the environment.
The ratio of mineral fertilizers and water used for feeding rhododendrons should not exceed 1-2: 1000 (potassium fertilizer solution should be even weaker). For fertilizing rhododendrons, chlorine-containing fertilizers should not be used. You need to start feeding the plants in early spring and stop at the end of July, otherwise, with warm weather and sufficient humidity, soil and air can cause secondary growth of shoots. Young shoots that started growing late, have time to complete growth before the end of the growing season and in the fall, even with the first light frosts, they freeze slightly. In the climatic conditions of our republic, which is characterized by warm and humid summers and autumns, the secondary growth of shoots in late August or early September is observed in many types of rhododendrons. You can stop it by spraying the plants with a 1% solution of potassium sulphate K2SO4 or a 1% solution of monobasic potassium phosphate KH2PO4.
Feeding rhododendrons with a potassium-phosphorus buffer solution is very effective. For its preparation, 8 g of potassium nitrate KNO3 and 8 g of monosubstituted potassium phosphate KH2PO4 are taken per 10 liters of water. It turns out a solution that contains the main macronutrients - nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and maintains the pH of the medium within the required limits (2-7).
Feeding rhododendrons with solutions of mineral salts is a very laborious work, therefore, in the mass cultivation of rhododendrons, dry mineral fertilizers are used. This makes the work of gardeners easier. For 1 m2 of area or for one plant 1 m high, 80 g of mineral fertilizers of the following composition should be taken: 20 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate and 40 g of ammonium sulfate. This mixture is sown in early spring, immediately after the snow has melted and the soil has thawed (in the climatic conditions of the Latvian SSR, around the end of March and the first half of April). During spring rains, mineral fertilizers dissolve and enter the substrate. Secondary feeding is carried out at the end of May - at the beginning of June, immediately after the flowering of rhododendrons. This time, the dose of mineral fertilizers is reduced by half.
You can carry out top dressing in a slightly different way: in early spring, only nitrogenous fertilizers are applied, and phosphorus and potash fertilizers are applied immediately after the flowering of rhododendrons. In this case, in early spring, 100 g of a mixture is sown per 1 m2 of area, which includes 50 g of ammonium sulfate and 50 g of magnesium sulfate. In late May - early June, after the flowering of rhododendrons, 80 g of a mixture is applied per 1 m2 of area, which includes 20 g of potassium sulfate, 20 g of superphosphate and 40 g of ammonium sulfate. Top dressing of open ground rhododendrons with mineral fertilizer solutions is carried out 2-3 times a year - from April to July. For top dressing, you can use the same fertilizers and in the same concentration that we recommended for top dressing of rhododendrons closed ground. For 10 liters of water, 21.5 g of ammonium sulfate, 8.3 g of superphosphate and 6.3 g of potassium sulfate are taken. In addition, during this period, in order to maintain the necessary reaction of the substrate, it is advisable to water the plants 1-2 more times with a potassium-phosphorus buffer solution.
Feeding young seedlings is somewhat different from feeding rhododendrons growing in a permanent place, so their fertilizer is discussed in the section that talks about the propagation of rhododendrons by seeds.
2. You can acidify the soil of rhododendrons when watering with any acid, for example, citric acid. Teaspoon on a bucket of water. The soil is acidified by needles.
Well acidifies the soil coffee grounds. Of course, you can’t collect a lot of it at home, but the brave can agree in cafes and restaurants and take their coffee from them.
Sometimes it is advised to water the plants with water with the addition of sulfuric acid to it (from 5 drops per 10 liters for hydrangeas and up to 50 drops per 10 liters for rhododendrons).
Watering and spraying rhododendrons should be done with soft acidified water. You can acidify water with acetic, oxalic, citric acid 3-4 g per 10 liters. You can put 50 g of high-moor peat in a bag for a day into a barrel of water (100 l), and water the plants with this water.
Rhododendrons should be fed in early spring, then - during the flowering period and a third time - after flowering during the active growth of shoots, but not later than July. It is advisable to make at least one top dressing organic fertilizer: dilute old semi-rotted - only cow - manure (it acidifies the soil) in a ratio of 1:15–20 with water and leave for several days.
For mineral dressings use those fertilizers that acidify the soil. In the spring for 1 square. m, or for one plant about 1 m high, 40 g of ammonium sulphate and 20 g of superphosphate and potassium sulphate are needed, with the next top dressing, the doses are reduced by 2 times.
Decorative rhododendrons delight their owners with long flowering, coloring the garden with colors from spring.
Rhododendrons can be cuttings, collecting seeds, layering and grafting. Each of these methods has advantages and disadvantages, which we will consider.
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How does rhododendron reproduce?
There are several ways to propagate rhododendron. We will consider them in detail in our article.
seeds
This method is the most economical and accessible to everyone. Completely without financial costs available a large number of new plants. But for this you need to try hard, providing decent care planted seeds and seedlings subsequently. But the whole process can be constantly observed and only really strong healthy bushes can be planted in the garden, culling less hardy and winter-hardy ones.
A significant drawback of the method can be called a long wait for flowering - rhododendrons from seeds bloom at best in the 4th year after planting. In some species, the waiting period is as much as 8-10 years.
Seeds can be collected after they ripen from a bush in late autumn or early winter, dry and store until planting in a paper bag or simply buy at a specialized center.
At the end of winter - March, the seeds are sown in prepared boxes with a light breathable substrate. Tanks, soil, drainage are pre-disinfected by treating boxes for sowing with strong potassium permanganate or "Whiteness", and soil and drainage with high temperatures.
Seeds are not buried in the ground, located on the surface, and be sure to create a mini-greenhouse with any accessible way. Young sprouts must be hardened and kept outside, transplanted into special beds or large containers. For the winter, the plants cover well, without bringing home.
The next spring, grown and strengthened bushes are transplanted to a permanent place for further development.
As you can see, the method is quite laborious. To grow healthy beautiful plants it takes a lot of effort and care.
Detailed information on how to sow rhododendron seeds is in the video below:
cuttings
A very time-consuming process that does not guarantee results. Rooting cuttings is slow and reluctant.
Therefore, the use of root formation stimulants is simply necessary. Cuttings are more suitable for winter-hardy species with large flowers and dwarf forms with small leaves. But rooted plants begin to bloom the next spring.
Cuttings can be cut throughout the summer. Usually shoots are used that are fully formed and partially lignified. In some species, green young branches can be propagated. It is easiest to root cuttings cut from the top of the shoot.
Chopped branches are freed from the apical bud and all leaves, except for a pair of top ones, and soaked in any root or growth stimulant. Quite suitable are Epin, heteroauxin, zircon, succinic acid and IMC. In solution, the shoots withstand no less than 11-13 hours.
Then the stalk of rhododendron is placed in a light substrate with an acidic reaction. It is obtained by mixing coniferous soil with rotted needles, red peat, fine sand. Containers are placed in a small greenhouse or covered with jars and halves of bottles, creating constant humidity and heat. To avoid the appearance of mold, the cuttings are periodically treated with any fungicide.
The process of root formation takes from 1 to 4 months, depending on the type of rhododendron. Usually, deciduous shrubs root much faster than evergreens. In the spring, the shoots are transplanted into a specially equipped garden bed, growing them in natural conditions for another year before transplanting to the "permanent residence".
Rhododendron propagation by cuttings photo
layering
The easiest and hassle-free way the main disadvantage of which is a very small number of new plants.
But it does not require costs - neither physical nor financial, as well as the use of any additional funds and devices. In addition, under natural conditions, rooting is much faster than in a home greenhouse. If layering is done in June, they will give roots by August.
Any healthy branch of an adult rhododendron is bent to the surface of the soil and fixed in this position with a wire or clamp. The middle part is sprinkled with soil, after making a small incision on it, the top is tied to a small peg. The only thing to do in the future is to water the layering in time to stimulate root formation. As with cuttings, the ground must always be damp.
You can separate a new plant in the fall or the next year. The mother shoot is cut off, the daughter bush is dug up and transplanted to the chosen place.
Tip from an experienced grower: do not transplant new bush in hot weather - the rhododendron will take root and acclimatize much worse. Optimum temperature air should not exceed 22-24 °.
Inoculation
The method is suitable for any species, not only deciduous, but also evergreen, which are difficult and take a long time to root.
Vaccination helps even in cases where cuttings or other methods are not possible, it is considered the most guaranteed and safe method.
A healthy grafting shoot is attached to the rootstock, placing it as close as possible to the root collar. The procedure is carried out in the spring, most often in the first half of April, in summer or autumn. The instrument must be well sharpened and disinfected, during the operation it is necessary to observe exceptional cleanliness of hands, plants and instruments.
Grafted rhododendrons are kept in a greenhouse or hotbed, in conditions of continuous humidity and heat of at least 25 °. Transplantation to the street is carried out after a couple of years, when the bush is formed and stronger.
The division of the bush
The method is used quite rarely, since few new plants are obtained. Usually it is used only by amateur flower growers. The pluses include technical ease of the procedure. The mother bush is dug out of the ground and divided into separate parts with roots with a shovel. If the roots are small, use a sharp knife or secateurs.
Bushes with a well-developed root system are sent to a nursery for a couple of years to strengthen and grow. Rhododendrons with weak small roots are determined in a greenhouse, having previously been planted in a pot of a suitable size. Old plants, bare from below, are also identified in the nursery. Here they will grow leaves, get stronger and acquire new shoots.
When can a rhododendron be transplanted? Can you transplant rhododendrons? any age- They tolerate a change of residence very well.
The best time is spring, before the active growth bushes, that is, when he just begins to wake up after a winter holiday.
In our climate, this is the second half of April - the first decade of May.
Rhododendron transplant in autumn: is it possible?
It is not forbidden to transplant rhododendrons both in summer and in early autumn. The most important thing is that the root system has time to take root in a new place before the cold weather.
IMPORTANT! The procedure is not carried out during the flowering period of the shrub and in the second half of autumn.
Step by step transplant instructions.
- Choose a place for rhododendron.
- Dig up the bush and inspect its roots, determine the size and condition. If the root ball is dry, it is immersed in a container of water for a couple of hours.
- Prepare the landing hole. The new hole must be 1.5-2 deeper and wider the root system of the bush.
- cook good soil. To do this, mix sphagnum or horse peat, rotted manure, coniferous or heather soil, crushed moss and small pebbles to loosen the substrate.
- Fill the bottom of the pit with a layer of drainage. For him, they take broken red brick, expanded clay, river or sea pebbles, pieces of granite. You can not use limestone, concrete fragments, pieces of white brick - they have a pronounced alkaline reaction, which is contraindicated for rhododendrons.
- Place the rhododendron bush in the hole, leaving the root collar open. Spread the roots and cover with earth. The soil layer above the roots is made quite thin - up to 5 cm thick.
- Create a border with high edges around the transplanted bush so that the water does not spread around during irrigation, but falls directly on the roots of the plant.
- It is very good to shed the planted rhododendron with soft water using at least 7-10 liters.
- Mulch the soil under the bush with oak leaves, coniferous needles, peat.
- Remove all existing buds so that the plant does not waste energy on flowering. It must take root in a new place and develop a root system.
- If the bush is single, not covered by other plants and buildings, next to it put up a support not to be damaged by the wind. After rooting, the stick can be removed.
Conclusion
It's not that hard to fill an entire garden with rhododendrons! Is always you can pick up a propagation method that is right for you and your garden. And if you find it difficult, remember that seed method considered the best among experienced flower growers. Good luck!
Useful video
More details about breeding rhododendron in the video below:
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author Ziborova E.Yu., photo Repnitsky N.Ya.Rhododendrons have long been grown in English gardens. Admiring the beauty of a wonderful profusely flowering bush, admiring gardeners put the rhododendron on the same level as the rose and therefore often called it " alpine rose". In Russia, they began to cultivate rhododendrons to decorate the garden only from the end of the 18th century.
best time planting rhododendron is considered spring; the bush should be planted in the garden either before the start of growth, or at the very beginning of the spring awakening of the plant. Before buying a rhododendron you like, you definitely need to find out what species it belongs to and what are the characteristics of this species, what are its care requirements. This information will help you avoid further disappointment and is essential for right choice location of the bush in the garden.
Beginning gardeners are recommended rhododendrons: Ledebour, Canadian, Japanese, yellow, Schlippenbach, Kevtebinsky, short-fruited, largest, Vazeya, etc. Rhododendrons are suitable for rock garden: Canadian, dense, golden, rusty, Kamchatka, etc.
Rhododendrons different types due to their biological characteristics, the need for crown lighting, soil and air moisture, different winter hardiness is different - you need to focus on these data when buying a plant and when choosing a place to plant a bush in a garden (it should be similar to natural environment habitat of this species).
The larger the leaves of rhododendrons, the more humidity they need and the more protection from wind and drafts they need. Various garden structures and hedges protect rhododendrons from drying wind and drafts.
Some hardy deciduous rhododendrons grow well in areas completely open to the sun (yellow, Japanese, Kamchatka, etc.). But most often, rhododendrons are planted in scattered penumbra - so that there is an open sky above the bushes, but rare trees or buildings nearby cover the bushes from the midday heat. Rhododendrons like cool (morning and evening) sun. In low light, light-loving species of rhododendrons grow and bloom worse.
It is undesirable that trees with a superficial root system grow next to rhododendrons - competing with roots, they will deprive less powerful rhododendrons of soil moisture and nutrition.
The hardiest rhododendrons are relatively unpretentious natural species, and among them stand out especially winter-hardy, which successfully grow in the middle lane and in very cold regions without shelter for the winter. Breeders also bred frost-resistant varieties of evergreen rhododendrons intended for regions with cold winters; they withstand frosts down to -35 degrees. Low winter-hardy species of rhododendrons definitely need shelter for the winter.
Rhododendrons are placed in the garden singly or in groups, planting them on slopes and along paths, on lawns, in rockeries, in garden compositions. When planting several bushes nearby, it is recommended to maintain a distance: between tall rhododendrons - about 2 m, between medium-sized species - about 1.5 m, between undersized - 0.5-0.7 m.
Rhododendrons love loose, well-drained soil with an acid reaction (pH 4.0-5.5), rich in humus. Large-flowered species of rhododendrons require the greatest acidity of the soil. Alkaline or neutral substrates inhibit the growth of these plants; lime, dolomite and ash are completely unsuitable for rhododendrons. This feature of plants must also be taken into account, choosing for them only those fertilizers that do not change the acidity of the soil.
The root system of rhododendrons is compact and superficial. Therefore, when planting a rhododendron bush in a dense clay soil a wide (up to a meter) but shallow (up to half a meter) pit is prepared for it, on the bottom of which drainage is poured (pebbles, crushed granite, broken red brick, fragments of slate, etc.) with a layer of about 10 cm. They are not suitable as drainage for rhododendrons (due to their calcium content) the following materials: crushed limestone, pieces of concrete, broken white brick. Drainage can be omitted only on non-flooding and well-drained sandy soils.
When planting a rhododendron, the planting hole is filled with any acidic or slightly acidic fertile substrate available. The composition of the substrate may include: high-moor peat, leafy soil from under broad-leaved trees, heather soil, rotted pine and spruce needles, a mixture of peat compost with sand, a mixture of high-moor peat and coniferous litter. Experts advise the following substrate options for rhododendrons:
- leaf soil, high-moor peat, litter of coniferous trees in proportion (3:2:1);
- heather, leaf earth, coarse sand (3:1:1);
- sod land, sphagnum peat, coarse sand (1:4:1).
Various other combinations of the components of the acidic fertile substrate necessary for the rhododendron are also used. A few large aged sawdust can be poured into the substrate; it would be nice to mix pieces of broken red brick into it to preserve moisture.
It is also recommended to add 30-50 g of special fertilizer for rhododendrons or any complex fertilizer to the planting pit (the presence of calcium in it is undesirable, and without chlorine!).
Before planting, a dry root ball of rhododendron is briefly immersed in water (until air stops being released) to saturate with moisture. Bare roots during planting are carefully straightened and evenly distributed in the planting hole, pressed to the ground to ensure better contact.
Rhododendrons tolerate transplantation well, but when planting, you must make sure that the root neck is not buried. For this purpose, they even specially raise the neck above the ground (about 2 cm above the soil level), taking into account the further subsidence of the substrate, and the soil around the roots is well compacted during planting. Unpretentious and winter-hardy rhododendrons are recommended to be planted on a small (10-15 cm) mound - this is how Better conditions for root respiration.
A hole with sides is made around the planted rhododendron bush and it is shed abundantly so that the soil comes into contact with the roots of the plant as quickly and densely as possible. After water has been absorbed, the substrate is poured into the hole in the places where it settles. When planting rhododendron in garden soil with a neutral reaction, additional watering with a solution of magnesium sulfate is necessary; it is also recommended to regularly apply potassium phosphate.
The space around the planted bush must be mulched (mulch layer - 5-8 cm) to retain moisture in the soil, to protect the roots from overheating and from possible damage, to provide the plant with organic nutrients, to prevent weed growth and soil erosion by water. At the same time, the base of the plant (root collar) should not be covered with mulch - you need to step back a little from it. It is better to mulch the near-stem space around the rhododendron bush with finely chopped tree bark (but not from willow and poplar). Also, as mulch, gardeners use high-moor peat, coniferous litter, moss, dry semi-rotted leaf (preferably oak, but not from maple, chestnut and other broad-leaved trees), rotted cow dung; sawdust is not recommended.
For the first time after planting, you need to shade the rooting rhododendron bushes from the sun and spray them more often with water, especially in hot weather.
In the absence of rain, the planted rhododendron requires regular watering. Neither the drying of the earth nor the stagnation of moisture in the root zone should be allowed - this is equally undesirable for the rhododendron and leads to its death. In case of heavy rains, in case of accumulation of water near the bush, it is necessary to urgently take measures to drain it. It is better to water the rhododendron with soft water from a nearby natural reservoir, or with specially softened water (by infusion of high-moor peat in hard water), or settled water.
Since the root system of the rhododendron is superficial, it is impossible to dig up and loosen its near-stem circle in order to avoid damage to the roots.
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