Collet chucks. What is a collet clamp (or chuck) and how to make one yourself? Homemade drill with a 6 mm cartridge

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The main advantage that a self-assembled mini-drill differs from standard products is its compact size and the ability to obtain electrical equipment without significant expenditure of money, effort and time. Make one like this homemade instrument easily at home, since this does not require special skills or highly complex devices. To get a high-speed drill or other devices for making crafts, House master you just need to be “friendly” with pliers and be able to perform simple technical operations.

Instructions for making a drill

When making small things, decorative and other products, a compact drill, engraver and the like hand tool very convenient, so it remains indispensable in the home workshop. Using such equipment you can drill and process products made of wood, plastic, textolite and others. durable materials. You will also need a micro drill for drilling. printed circuit boards.

To manufacture drilling equipment, select a suitable chuck and a body of suitable dimensions ( plastic container). To rotate the working surfaces, you need to select an electric motor and a power supply, for which you can disassemble old hair dryer or other electrical equipment.

To learn how to make a mini-drill, just read the following list of recommendations:

  • You first need to secure the cartridge to the electric motor shaft, for which you will need adhesive materials (“cold welding”), which ensure a reliable connection between the metals.
  • You will have to work very carefully, since the adhesive materials set quickly, which eliminates the possibility of eliminating errors and correcting the connection.
  • After fixing the cartridge, it is better to cover its surface with a special heat-resistant glue, which will ensure the density and strength of the connection.
  • On the case you need to make a hole in advance for the switch (preferably a push-button one).
  • The drill will be more functional with a reverse mechanism, which is implemented using a six-pin switch.
  • When connecting to power, you will need a 12 V power supply or a battery (2-3 pieces) of the same voltage.

Having assembled a mini-drill into a single structure from individual parts with your own hands, you can turn on the power and do test drilling.

Assembling the collet chuck

To secure drills in a drill, you will need a special collet or chuck in the form of an adapter with clamps for the drilling tool. This mini drill chuck is attached directly to the electric motor shaft. A self-made collet clamp allows you to work with drills with a diameter of 0.7 to 3 mm. The more carefully and accurately this element is assembled, the more accurate the drilling will be.

It is important to choose the right cartridge, so if it is impossible to find suitable option better take it on self-production. No need for this lathe, because all you need to do is select a screw and a closed nut with an M8 thread. When assembling the cartridge, proceed in the following order:

  • Drill a 2mm hole in the screw head and nut.
  • Make axial cuts with a hacksaw.
  • Enlarge the holes with a 3.5 mm drill.
  • Grind the nut until it has a cone shape.

Having thus assembled a mini-chuck for a drill with your own hands, you can begin installing it on the drill. If necessary, select similar chucks for drills of any diameter.

DIY mini drill

Drills are used by modellers, home craftsmen and those who love making small parts or decorative elements. The presence of a flexible shaft in such a device allows you to work with the smallest parts and treat surfaces complex shapes(grinding, polishing, cutting, applying patterns). Assembling such a machine is as simple as making a drill with a mini-chuck for drills with a diameter of up to 3 mm. To do this, you need to find the main component - an 18 V electric motor, which can be taken in a screwdriver or blender.

The procedure will be as follows:

  • Disassemble the blender by removing the top cover and cover, unscrewing the mounting bolts.
  • Remove the electrical circuit, power cable and the part located above the rotator from the housing.
  • Remove the tip on the electric motor shaft, remove dirt from the housing and shaft.
  • Select the cartridge according to the shaft size (the most accurate way to measure the diameter is with a caliper).
  • Secure the microcircuit and the on/off mechanism.

The assembled instrument can be connected using a cable to a regular outlet. Rechargeable batteries or regular batteries are also suitable as a power source, which will have to be replaced periodically.

Flexible shaft for Dremel or micro drill

Rotation can be transmitted to replaceable attachments using a device such as a flexible shaft made of durable twisted wire with a protective metal coating. For self-assembly This device will need a few simple things:

  • brass or copper tube;
  • bushings with metric thread M4 (2 pcs.);
  • metal shaft made of 5 mm electrode (M5 thread);
  • adapter for thread 0.75;
  • mini-chuck for quick fixation of the cutting tool;
  • metal clamp (M12 bolt with a hole along the axis);
  • protective coating at the connection point.

To assemble a flexible shaft, an electrode is placed in the tube and secured with bushings. On one of the bushings you need to attach an adapter with a cartridge, and on the other, install a clamping device for connection with the flexible part. After all these operations, protection made of brass or copper is secured. Installed on the cartridge plastic handle on the clamp, which simplifies the work with the tool.

Dynamo from printer drive

You can make a micro-dynamo yourself if you disassemble your old printer. Such a portable device will be able to convert mechanical rotation into electrical energy, which arises under the influence of magnetic induction in closed loop. This homemade product allows you to get a simple generator at home direct current, which is useful for powering small electrical appliances, charging mobile phones, tablets and other equipment. A small dynamo can also be used to LED lighting, bicycle light with connection to a single-phase circuit.

Just like a bur or a do-it-yourself microdrill, a dynamo is assembled from improvised materials that can be found at home. An example kit looks like this:

  • electric motor;
  • belt drive;
  • non-slip handle;
  • base made of wood or other durable material;
  • capacitors with a capacity of 10000 μF (4 pcs.) and a diode (1 pc.);
  • wires, fasteners, metal corner.

The only condition for successful assembly of the dynamo is the selection of suitable sized and fully working components. All the parts needed for this can be found in any home printer. Before assembling the dynamo, it is better to make a drawing in advance and get a clear idea of ​​​​the location of each element.

The device is assembled in the following order:

  • Connect capacitors in parallel.
  • The phases are connected to the electric motor through a diode, and the zero is connected to the motor zero.
  • Secure the device to the base.
  • Install the gear with the handle.
  • Tension the drive belt.

When assembling the structure and connecting the contacts, polarity must be taken into account.

Micro motor at home

Compact electric motors are used by modelers and hobbyists of various small crafts with electric drive. Such a device is the most common DC electric motor with a brushless circuit. For the manufacture of this device, a vibrating platform from a mobile phone is suitable, and as a shaft you can choose thin drill(up to 0.29 mm), onto which copper wire is wound in two layers.

The procedure for manufacturing an electric motor is as follows:

  • Coat the winding with epoxy.
  • Fix the electromagnet.
  • Attach fluoroplastic bushings to the electromagnet.
  • Install the entire structure under the winding.

To be fully ready, you need to mount the valves and make the connection using a five-input microchip.

A description of what can be made from a drill or an old printer will help you assemble quite complex devices at home that are needed by craftsmen, modellers, and just lovers of crafts. Knowing how to make a collet clamp with your own hands or make an electric motor, you can save a lot, because all these products are made from used devices and parts. All costs are reduced only to the time allocated for assembly.

Many home craftsmen are interested in the question of whether a drill can be made with their own hands. Solving this problem is not difficult, and a ready-made homemade device Despite the simplicity of its design, it will be distinguished by fairly high efficiency and functionality.

Homemade drill It will be inexpensive and will not cause any special problems during manufacture. It will be useful in many situations, including when performing such technological operations as:

  • drilling;
  • drilling holes;
  • processing of grooves and recesses of various configurations;
  • engraving;
  • polishing;
  • cutting of plastic products;
  • cutting non-ferrous sheet metal (aluminum, brass, bronze, etc.) up to 1.5 mm thick.

The drill, made according to the instructions below, is distinguished by its compact dimensions, light weight and ease of use. Such a device, made with your own hands at home, is equally successfully used to perform small and quite serious work with products from various materials– metal, wood, plastic, bone, etc. Such a drill is very useful in jewelry making and when repairing small items for various purposes, manufacturing and repair of electrical devices and in many other situations.

What you will need

How to make a drill with your own hands? You can use various options its designs. As the main working element of such a device, it is very convenient to use attachments that were supplied with old-style dental drills. Such a nozzle, as a rule, is initially mounted on flexible shaft, from which it must be removed by unscrewing its spring. From the bottom of the dismantled drill attachment, you need to cut off a not too wide ring, which will act as a nut used to fix the entire device on the plate. In addition, by cutting off such a ring, you will free the end of the shaft on which the gear will be mounted.

For engraver attachments made by hand in the offered design, can be installed Various types replaceable tool holders. Such holders, in particular, can be:

  • straight;
  • with a lateral arrangement of the tool;
  • with a curved working head.

More universal are direct type holders, which are used in 90% of cases. In situations where the location of the element being processed does not allow the use of straight holders, they turn to curved type nozzles with a side-mounted tool.

Having chosen to equip your homemade engraver working attachments from an old drill, keep in mind that they can only be used in conjunction with a tool whose shank diameter is 2.35 mm. At the same time, tools intended for installation in straight-type holders are distinguished by an elongated shank. The shanks of burs installed in corner holders are shorter and have a special groove (slot).

Application homemade nozzles For an engraver, using an old drill has a number of advantages. The main one is that you can buy such a drill for very little money, since similar devices are no longer used in modern dentistry. Finding and buying tools to equip such attachments is also not a problem.

Assembling a homemade device

In order to be able to use an attachment from an old drill to perform minor work on items made of metal, plastic, wood and bone, it is necessary to make a device with which such an attachment will be driven by a small electric motor of the required power. As a drive motor for a homemade drill, you can use a small, but resourceful and powerful motor from an ordinary hair dryer or an old VCR.

To transfer the torque from the electric motor to the shaft of the engraver attachment, you can use plastic gears of various sizes. In particular, gearboxes of children's wind-up toys, as well as kinematic diagrams, are equipped with similar gears household appliances for various purposes. When choosing such gears, it is very important to ensure that they match each other in number, shape of teeth and outer diameter. To increase the power of the working attachment of a homemade drill, it is necessary to fix a gear of a larger diameter on its shaft, and a gear of a smaller diameter to fix it on the shaft of the drive motor.

The diameters of the mounting holes in the gears that you select to equip the drive mechanism of your homemade drill will most likely not correspond to the dimensions of the electric motor shafts and the working attachment. This problem can be solved quite simply: by drilling mounting holes of the required diameter in the gears. To ensure a tight and secure fit plastic gears on the motor shafts and engraver attachments, holes should be drilled with a smaller diameter (0.1–0.2 mm) than the dimensions of the shafts themselves.

The drive unit of your homemade drill, consisting of an electric motor, two gears and the tail part of the attachment shaft, will work correctly and without failures if all elements of such a mechanism are securely fixed in the appropriate position. This problem can be solved by the simplest device, made from an aluminum plate 2 mm thick. Such a plate can be given absolutely any configuration (the main thing is that it does not create inconvenience when working with a homemade drill).

It is necessary to drill two holes in the mounting plate, one of which is intended to accommodate the electric motor, and the second is for fixing the working nozzle. It is very important to correctly calculate the distance between the centers of such holes, which should be equal to the distance between the axes of the two gears used that are in mesh with each other. If such a distance is calculated and maintained correctly during drilling, then the gears will rotate without jamming or slipping through the teeth when using a homemade drill. If the hole in the mounting plate, in which the working attachment of the drill will be fixed, is made in the shape of an ellipse, it is possible to level out the errors made when performing the calculations described above.

To make the mutual rotation of the drive gears easier, it is necessary to ensure that there is a small gap (0.1–0.2 mm) between their teeth in the meshed state. The strict perpendicularity of the axes of their mounting holes to their side surface helps to avoid horizontal runout of such gears during rotation.

Assembling a homemade drill and combining it with an engraver attachment is carried out in the following sequence:

  1. The tail part of the working nozzle is fixed to the mounting plate using a pre-prepared nut.
  2. The drive motor is secured with two screws connecting its housing to the mounting plate.
  3. After fixing the electric motor and the working attachment on the mounting plate, plastic gears are put on their shafts.
  4. To start using the assembled drill, working attachment The tool holder must be installed and the drive motor must be connected to the power supply.
  5. To make your homemade engraving machine more convenient to use, you can additionally equip it with a small switch and a power connector.

If, when using such a homemade drill, you are not satisfied with the fact that it can only be used in conjunction with instruments whose shank diameter does not exceed 2.35 mm, then this problem can be solved. To do this, you need to purchase a collet chuck mounted on a mini-drill, mounting hole in which it has a diameter of 2.3 mm. You need to insert the shank of any high-quality bur with a broken working head into it: it is this shank that will be fixed in the clamping device of your homemade drill.

Collet chuck is a type chuck. Designed for clamping cylindrical workpieces with smooth surface. Used for drilling, drilling and filler, milling, lathes and CNC machines program controlled. The main element of the collet is a bushing with longitudinal cuts. Between the cuts there are elastic petals that hold the material when compressed. Usually one cartridge is sold with a set of collets of different diameters.

The cartridge consists of three parts - a body, a replaceable sleeve (collet) and a clamping nut. The collet has several axial slots dividing it into petals. The number of petals varies depending on the diameter of the sleeve. The material is held in place due to the fact that the locknut transfers pressure to the conical formation, and the part is compressed by radial force. There are replaceable collets for fastening cylindrical parts, as well as blanks in the shape of polyhedra. A collet chuck is installed on the machine shaft.

Depending on the purpose, collets are divided into three types:

  • Feed collet. It is a hardened steel bushing with three partial cuts. The petals are directed towards the center and are springy. The hole in the feed collet is selected with such a diameter that the part is clamped tightly. Equipped with a set of replaceable inserts, making it possible to clamp parts of different diameters and profiles.
  • Clamping collet. It is a sleeve with a through hole. Two attachment points are formed along the axis. The material installed in the collet is firmly fixed and held during operation. For square parts, a clamp is made with four slots, for round and hexagonal materials - with three. With a set of collets for different shapes blanks can be secured into a chuck with a part of any shape. The advantage of such models is almost zero radial runout.
  • Detachable collet. Used when processing parts with small diameters. The cams are moved apart using springs.

Application

Since each collet is designed for only one diameter, they are used when working with long metal rods on milling machines. Also, high precision makes it possible to secure taps, cutters and wrench tips. With their help, drills of drilling and filler machines are attached. The inner surface of the collet is polished, so the surface of the workpiece in the places where the clamp is made is not deformed.

In addition to equipment for machine tools, mini chucks are used in construction equipment. There are drills with mini chucks and routers with mini chucks.

Also, using mini self-clamping chucks, they are attached Building tools to the handles. This allows you to make universal handles for several tools. Using a mini chuck attached to the end of the handle, it is convenient to change the shafts of files or screwdrivers.

The same principle applies to clamping graphite rod in mechanical pencils. When you press the pencil button, a mini collet extends, the petals diverge to the side and the rod reaches the required length.

Advantages and disadvantages

To understand whether such a cartridge is right for you, it is important to understand its features. Self-clamping chucks have a number of advantages:

  • Easy to install and dismantle the workpiece. No need to own the kit additional tools– studs, stoppers or clamp with keys.
  • Clamping of small diameter parts.
  • Long period of operation. Due to the fact that collet chucks are made of hardened or cemented steel, they have greater strength.
  • The large contact surface area prevents the workpiece from spinning.
  • Minimal beats. In self-clamping bushings the part is well centered. This allows you to increase the accuracy of material processing. Mini vibrations of the material are usually neglected.
  • Versatility. Suitable for almost all types of machines.

The main disadvantage is that one collet clamp holds the part certain size. Therefore, it is advisable to own a set of interchangeable collets and select them for each workpiece. Adapter bushings are also used to solve this problem. They also have petals, but the shape of the bushings is cylindrical. The sleeve is installed inside a collet of the appropriate size, and a workpiece is inserted into the hole of the adapter sleeve. The clamping nut is tightened and compresses the collet, and the adapter sleeve inside it is compressed and holds the part. With a set of interchangeable collets or adapter sleeves, the self-clamping chuck becomes an indispensable mechanism for the machine.

Self-production

Making a collet chuck with your own hands is not easy. To do this, we grind three main parts - the body, the collet and the locknut. 50HFGA steel is best suited for this. For manufacturing you need to own a set of tools and milling machine. A homemade cartridge is not inferior in quality to factory analogues.

A cylindrical blank of a suitable size is selected for the body. It is drilled along the axis through hole, a thread is cut inside to secure the machine spindle in place. After this, the homemade housing is installed directly on the machine shaft. A conical shape is ground inside for scurvy. Then a thread is cut from the outside for the securing nut.

The lock nut is made next. A suitable blank is fixed in the machine tool chuck. We make a through hole, bore the internal cavity and cut a counter thread inside of the same diameter as on the body.

The most difficult thing to do is the collet. The workpiece needs to be sharpened and a hole made using a drill. After this, a cone-shaped part is turned out, and slots are made on it with a diamond-coated disk.

A homemade cartridge should have as many parts as possible exact dimensions. All internal surfaces must be sanded. You can make a knurl on the outside of the locknut, then you can install the workpiece yourself.

If possible, you need to harden all parts of the cartridge. Otherwise homemade cartridge will not last long. If hardening is not possible, the collet can be made of brass or bronze. These collets must be used with caution.

If accuracy is important to you when working on a machine and the size of the workpiece rarely changes, then a collet chuck is ideal for you.

To carry out drilling work on miniature workpieces, engraving machines, the so-called “dremels,” are usually used. The name comes from the name of the most popular manufacturer. This is a convenient hand tool, but its cost is usually high (especially for high-quality branded products).

The most common area of ​​application is amateur modeling and production of printed circuit boards. As a rule, an industrial design is redundant for such work: some of its capabilities are not in demand. Therefore, home craftsmen often create instruments with their own hands.

  • Of course electric motor. The power supply is preferably no more than 12 volts: at least for safety reasons.
  • power unit, if possible with a voltage regulator (to change the number of shaft revolutions).
  • Frame(in the most primitive designs you can do without it).
  • And the second most important detail (after the motor) is drill chuck.

Everything except the electric motor can be made independently. Although, the cost of the remaining components is so meager that you can limit yourself to only assembling power tools from ready-made components.

Let's look at a few tried and tested options.

Complete analogue of the factory “Dremel”

To make it, you will need a motor with a 5V or 12V power supply, which can be removed from a broken children's toy, a miniature fan, a printer, a tape recorder, or simply bought on Aliexpress. If you plan to use the drill not only for drilling printed circuit boards, you can make a convenient case from polypropylene water pipe. We select the diameter so that the motor holds tightly to the walls. Ventilation usually runs along the shaft. You can use an empty tube of construction sealant.

End caps can be cut from any material: for example, PVC or acrylic. If the engine is powerful enough - Charger It won't work from an old mobile phone. You need a current reserve of at least 3A (for 5 volts). A good optionold block power supply from a computer (can be purchased for pennies on the radio market).

Tip: From a computer power supply you can make a universal power supply for your home workshop. Stable power supply 5V with a load of up to 20 amperes, and 12V with a load of up to 8 amperes. You can connect both a Dremel and a soldering iron.

The collet chuck can be purchased in the store: the department of components for engravers and Dremels. If there is a need to adjust the speed, you can make the circuit yourself, or purchase a ready-made unit.

The illustration shows a Chinese regulator and a power supply from an Internet router (12V, 1.2A).

With this homemade “Dremel” you can not only drill miniature holes. By installing the appropriate attachment, you can work with a milling cutter, cutter, or cutting disc.

Drill made from a toothbrush

At first glance, it sounds absurd. But we will talk about an electric brush, which has a completely reliable motor inside. It is enough to get to the steel shaft on which the gearbox with rotating bristles is placed, and the workpiece is in your hands.

The same collet chuck is put on the shaft, and batteries are installed instead of batteries. Or you can adapt a suitable one network block nutrition.

Drilling walls with such a device will not work, but holes in a printed circuit board will be easy. In principle, you can use any compact electrical appliance that has a conveniently located motor shaft. For example, an old electric razor.

Economical option without housing

Let's move on to creating a mini drill with minimal costs. We do not buy anything except the motor itself (although it can also be found for free in old technology). Most compact electric motors are rated at 12 volts DC. We create a power supply for it.

Since there will be no additional options (speed controller, voltage stabilizer), the power supply is stabilized by a constant load. A typical 12 volt micromotor operates with a current of no more than 2 amps. A simple calculation shows that the output power should be 24 W. Add 25% for rectification losses, we get a 30 W transformer.

To get 12 volts under load, 16 volts must be removed from the secondary winding. You can make such a transformer in an hour, from any unnecessary power supply. Next is a rectifier bridge using any diodes: for example, 1N1007.

Our motor does not need rectified voltage ripple, so we connect a 25-volt electrolytic capacitor with a capacity of about 1000 μF at the output. It will smooth the output current. Despite its simplicity, such a tandem works stably, with only one drawback: as the load increases, the voltage drops. That is, with uniform rotation, the power supply produces 12 volts. And if you are drilling “heavy” material, you need to monitor the speed, not letting it drop. Otherwise the shaft will simply stop.

You can slightly complicate the power supply circuit by adding a suitable voltage regulator. For example, KR142EN8B or L7812CV.

In this case, there will be no voltage drop when the drill is loaded.

  • If you only drill PCB textolite, you will not need to change the drill. So we attach it permanently. The adapter sleeve can be made from anything: a tube from a telescopic antenna, a needle from a medical syringe, a refill from a gel pen.

Given the miniature design, no clamps are needed. Everything can be secured with glue or tape.

  • At universal use drills that involve changing the drill or installing other attachments, it would be better to purchase a universal collet chuck.

  • You can use a standard jaw chuck and install it on the shaft using an adapter sleeve.

The execution of the case depends only on your imagination. Most craftsmen leave a “bare” utilitarian design: the supply voltage is safe, the dimensions of the motor allow it to be held in hands without a housing.

If you want basic aesthetics, there are many options: and they are all free.

A homemade tool doesn’t just save money. It can be made exactly to suit your needs, unlike universal factory options.

Everyone knows that a drill on the farm is very useful and universal tool. If you have a drill at home, you can hang a picture on the wall, straighten furniture, and repair a number of necessary items. But what should you do if you don’t have a drill at home, and constantly asking your neighbors is somehow inconvenient?

You can buy it in a store, but this device is very expensive. Or you can assemble a mini-drill with your own hands using scrap materials that are found in almost every home. We will tell you how to do this in this material, presenting to your attention several simple ways DIY mini-drill assembly at home.

Mini drill made from an electric chuck

The first option for assembling this device with your own hands is based on using an electric chuck, which can be purchased separately, or taken out of the light bulb. If you buy it, it is very inexpensive, but the cost will be justified.

Also, to assemble a mini-drill with your own hands from a chuck, you will need the following things:

  • motor;
  • a jar of soap bubbles;
  • construction knife;
  • insulating tape;
  • hot glue;
  • blowtorch;
  • household switch.

Mini drill body and core

Work must begin by preparing the body of the mini-drill that will serve as soap bubble jar. This is done like this:

  • Prepare a jar lid. To do this, heat up the soldering iron and use it to make a small hole in the lid of the jar.
  • The diameter of this hole should be slightly larger than the diameter of the drill base.
  • The bottom of the jar must be completely cut out.

Let's start working with the core:

  1. We connect the cartridge with the motor. Most often, motors are taken from different tools that have already been used.
  2. Before the bonding process, the motor must be completely degreased using acetone.
  3. The cartridge can also be degreased, but there is no need to water it like a motor with acetone. Regular wiping will be sufficient.

The method of fastening occurs through cold welding . If this method does not suit you, you can also use hot glue. Remember that the more complex your future mini-drill, the more materials you will need to assemble it yourself.

When planting with welding or glue, you need to work extremely carefully so that everything turns out as smooth as possible. It will not be possible to redo the work later, keep this point in mind.

You also need to consider the following:

  • at the mounting location on the cartridge there is a hole that needs to be covered before connecting the parts;
  • putty is carried out using simple plasticine;
  • Only the holes should be filled with plasticine; there should not be any left on top of the cartridge.

Manufacturing process

When you have prepared the body and core, you can begin directly assembling the drill with your own hands:

The good thing about a ready-made mini-drill is that it can run on both batteries and electrical supply. We have considered the build option universal model.

Naturally, without having the skills to work with electricity, it will be extremely difficult to assemble such a drill with your own hands. Below we suggest you consider options for assembling simpler drills for small household needs.

How to assemble a drill with your own hands based on the handle body

One of the options a simple drill- This homemade device based on a regular ballpoint pen.

To make it you will need the following materials: ballpoint pen; drill with the required diameter; hot glue; a durable stick with handles at the end that can be used to rotate it.

Pay special attention to the choice of handle for the manufacture of a future drill, and specifically to its body, since during operation the main load will fall on the body.

The requirements for the handle body are:

  • it must be as strong as possible to withstand loads;
  • the best option is a body made of high-quality metals;
  • If there is no pen with a metal body, choose a pen with a thick plastic base.

The build process looks like this:

  • Disassemble the handle until only one body remains.
  • The lower part of the body, where the writing rod usually sticks out, needs to be unscrewed.
  • Instead of this part, insert a drill into the body in such a way that its working part sticks out from under the lower part, and the second part is inserted into the hole that is in the stick.
  • The stick is inserted into the body at the same time as the drill.
  • To ensure that the structure of the drill is complete, it is fixed to the wall of the housing using hot-melt adhesive.
  • When you twist the mechanism using special handles, the drill will rotate, providing the right job by pressing the handle body.

Making a drill using a toothbrush

Electric toothbrushes are very convenient to use, but impractical in the sense that the bristles on them cannot be changed and after use, this expensive device, like a simple brush, has to be thrown away.

But you don’t have to do this by using electric brush body for making a drill with your own hands.

We take an old electric brush and cut everything down to the body. Next, you need to connect the motor shaft to the drill using a collet clamp, which must be purchased separately.

When purchasing a collet clamp (or chuck), be sure to find out in advance what the diameter of the motor shaft in the brush is. The motors differ from each other in the diameter of the mounted shaft.

Collet clamp It is inexpensive and can be purchased on the radio market or in a specialized online store. It includes chuck and replacement drill bits nozzles with different diameters that are inserted into the cartridge.

The most difficult thing in this case is to put a collet clamp on the brush motor. The cartridge is designed for a shaft of 2 mm, but the motor here has a smaller one. To do this, each screw for fastening must first be ground to give it cone-shaped so that you can adjust minimum diameter fastening the cartridge to the diameter of the motor shaft.

Of course, you can assemble a mini-drill with your own hands not only based on brushes or old pens, but also other devices, folk craftsmen come up with new ways to use them every day. homemade assembly. However, the options discussed above are suitable even for those who have never encountered anything like this and are assembling such devices for the first time in their lives.

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