Floor leveling is an integral part of any overhaul. During the operation of residential premises wooden joists dry out and become deformed, the screed is knocked out and cracked in places, the floors sag. Thanks to modern technologies, anyone can level the floor with their own hands, even without the relevant experience and skills of a builder.
Ways to level the base
To level floors in a residential building or apartment, 4 methods are used:
In addition, to level out individual defects on a wooden floor, scraping is used. Semi-dry and wet screeds justified where the floors are very poor condition, and the differences in height are 5 cm or more. Disadvantage this method is a long period drying of the base; The advantage of the screed is the high strength and durability of the coating.
Leveling the floor with a screed If the differences in height are no more than 3 cm, you can use special mixtures for leveling. They create a perfectly flat surface in a matter of hours, durable, resistant to moisture and temperature changes.
Raised floors are optimal solution in cases where quick repairs are required wooden base. Of course, the joists must be in good condition, otherwise you will have to completely change everything and make a screed.
Prices for various types of screeds and self-leveling floors
Screeds and self-leveling floors
Before starting work, it is necessary to accurately determine the floor level. The most convenient way to do this is to visually determine the highest point of the floor, place the device on it and turn it on. A red line will appear around the perimeter of the room; if it is continuous, you can draw markings along it with a pencil. If the line overlaps at selected places, the point is selected incorrectly. The device is rearranged and the integrity of the laser line is checked again.
With absence laser level You can use a water level - cheaper and more accessible. The markup process in in this case It will take longer, but the result will be almost the same. An assistant is needed to carry out the marking, since it will not be possible to hold both ends of the tube on your own. So, take a transparent polypropylene tube in your hands and fill it with water. It is very important that no air bubbles form inside the tube, and if this does occur, they should be released.
The marking is done as follows:
- 2 people clamp the ends of the tube in their hands and stand in the corners of one wall;
- holding your hand at a height of 30 cm from the floor, open the tubes and place them against the wall;
- as soon as the water stops, mark its level on the wall with a pencil;
- Marks are placed in the same way in opposite corners and in the middle of each wall;
- having visually identified the highest point on the floor, draw an even horizontal line from this point to the wall and make another mark;
- after that, measure the distance from the bottom mark to the top with a tape measure;
- move all the upper marking points down to the required distance;
- connect these points into one continuous line using a beat.
Tapping is done like this: take a marking cord, pour blue into the box, shake it thoroughly and pull the cord between the marks. Then, pulling it back with your fingers, they sharply release it. Forms on the wall straight line of blue color, which is the new floor level.
To make a screed you will need:
First you need to prepare the surface: dismantle the old coating, remove debris, dust, and repair deep cracks. Next, mix the plaster and distribute it in small portions along the wall, 20 cm away from it. Then do the same at a distance of 70 cm from the wall, and so on until the end of the room. Beacons from the profile are placed on the solution, placing them in parallel lines. Using a building level, the beacons are placed horizontally, while simultaneously following the markings around the perimeter of the room. The surface of the profiles must be flush with the markings.
To more accurately determine the horizontal, the building level must be laid across the profile, capturing not two, but three beacons at once. If necessary, the profile is pressed into the solution or, conversely, raised. Having installed all the beacons, work is suspended until the solution dries.
When the plaster has set well, begin mixing. Pour 1 part of M400 or M500 cement, 4 parts of sifted sand into the container and mix thoroughly. Then add water in small portions and stir until smooth. The finished solution should be thick enough to slide off the shovel in its entirety. The floor is slightly moistened and the cement mixture is laid between the beacons, starting from the far corner. To level the solution, they usually lay it across two profiles, press it with both hands along the edges and move it towards themselves with uniform movements.
Using a dry screed
To level the floors you will need:
Step 1. Surface preparation
Prepare the rough base: remove the deteriorated coating, remove dust and debris, and blow foam into deep cracks in the floor. The recesses are filled with cement mortar and left until completely dry. Small gaps are sealed waterproof sealant. Using a laser or water level, mark the height of the floor.
Step 2: Waterproof the floor
Next, the base is covered with roofing felt or film, laying the material overlapping by 20 cm. The joints must be secured with tape. The waterproofing should extend onto the walls and overlap the marking line by a couple of centimeters. If necessary, foam plastic or polystyrene foam boards are laid on the film.
Step 3. Attaching the soundproofing tape
The damper tape not only perfectly muffles sounds, but also prevents deformation flooring due to temperature fluctuations. It is made of polyethylene foam and is available in rolls. The tape is cut so that its length is 10 cm greater than the length of the perimeter, and the width corresponds to the thickness of the leveling layer plus 2-3 cm. Attach the damper tape to double-sided tape or immediately purchase an adhesive-based edging material.
Step 4. Leveling the floor
Mix the gypsum solution and use it to fix the screed beacons on the floor. The distance between the beacons should be less than the length of the rule, usually 40-50 cm. The surface of the beacons is leveled to the zero level, recessed in the solution or raising the edges of the profiles. Next, pour it onto the floor and level it with the rule. Minimum thickness leveling mixture is 5 cm; If necessary, wiring is laid in this layer. After leveling, the dry screed is compacted with a tamper or a thick board, and then checked building level.
Step 5. Installation of gypsum fiber boards
GVL slabs are an integral part of the leveling layer. They protect the dry mixture from pressing, wetting, shifting and other deformations. To avoid damaging the surface of the screed during installation, separate pieces of slabs are placed under the feet and people move only on them. These plates have grooves at the ends, making it easier to lay the material. On sheets intended for laying under walls, folds are cut. Turning the cut side of the slab towards the wall, coat the opposite edge with glue and insert the next fragment.
To prevent the sheets from getting buried in the dry mixture, you cannot move them too much along the surface or press on the edges. In each subsequent row, the seams between the slabs must be staggered. After installation, the joints are coated with glue and then reinforced with self-tapping screws with an anti-corrosion coating. Self-tapping screws are screwed in at a distance of 10 cm from each other, and about 20 pieces are needed for one sheet. The screw caps should be deepened well into the surface of the slabs. In conclusion sharp knife cut off the protruding edges of the film and soundproofing tape.
Prices for drywall and sheet materials
Drywall and sheet materials
Using self-leveling mixtures
For minor differences in height, a leveling method using special mixtures is ideal. Surface preparation is carried out as standard: remove coating, dust, debris, seal gaps and cracks in the floor. Prime the base thoroughly and allow it to dry completely.
The mixture must be diluted strictly according to the manufacturer's instructions, otherwise cracks may appear in the coating or the composition will harden too quickly and will not spread.
The finished product is poured onto the floor and immediately rolled out with a special roller. You can also use a regular or notched wide spatula. Since such a solution dries quickly enough, the leveling process cannot be interrupted or delayed. If the working area is too large, you should divide it into longitudinal sections and fill it one by one.
Leveling wooden floors
You can make a smooth, reliable floor without using. To do this, dismantle the old coating and clean the surface of debris and dust. Cracks are sealed with mortar or blown out with foam. Logs are cut out of dense dry boards with a cross-section of 40x100 mm and attached to the base using anchor bolts. The distance between the lags is 30-40 cm. Each lag is checked with a building level; if there are horizontal deviations, mounting wedges of different thicknesses are placed under the boards.
Transverse spacers made of timber are inserted between them and screwed with self-tapping screws. The distance between the spacers should be equal to the width of the sheathing sheets. Thick plywood or chipboard, pre-treated with an antiseptic compound, is used as cladding. So, plywood is laid on top of the joists, secured with self-tapping screws, and the seams are filled with sealant.
If the old coating is strong enough and the unevenness is almost invisible, you can level the floor without removing the boards. To do this, vacuum the surface, remove peeling paint, and carefully prime it. Use a level to determine unevenness, then spread acrylic putty and apply an even layer on problem areas. After drying, the puttyed areas should be treated with fine-grained sandpaper. The top of the base is covered with plywood or Chipboard thickness from 2 cm.
The listed methods will help you cope with floor repairs on your own, which means significant savings. Any of the options described has simple technology and does not require special equipment. If you follow the instructions, carefully and accurately perform each process, everything will definitely work out.
Video - Level the floor with your own hands
Leveling a concrete floor without the help of hired specialists is not such a difficult task if you approach it “armed” with certain knowledge. Let's figure out how you can complete this process yourself.
Why do you need to level floors?
Floor concrete covering these days can be seen in commercial premises, industrial facilities, and living rooms Oh. It has mass useful characteristics, but they can only be used if the concrete bases are properly leveled. The most common defects in concrete floors are the following:
- small "waves" called plows that appear after the rule;
- smooth repeating changes in floor level - wave changes;
- increases (local) floor level - sagging.
With prolonged use of poorly constructed concrete foundations, cracks often form on them, as well as cavities and lenses—lowering (local) floor levels. Sometimes protruding pieces of crushed stone filler appear on its surface, which indicate destruction of the coating. All the mentioned defects lead to unevenness on the floor, which can cause injury to a person, the impossibility of reliable installation of equipment used in everyday life and in the kitchen, and furniture.
And from an aesthetic point of view, an uneven floor covering, you see, does not add beauty to the room. To avoid these inconveniences, you need to properly level the floor yourself. Such a procedure, carried out efficiently, will also allow achieving high level noise, hydro and thermal insulation of floor coverings. Alignment concrete base carried out by arranging a screed, which can be done wet or dry.
In the first case, it is mandatory to use special staff for leveling with the addition of water. With the dry method, dry mixtures are used. Choice optimal technology for each specific case is based on the condition of the initial floor covering and the height differences present on the floor of the room. Typically, cement-sand compositions, “dry” compositions and self-leveling mixtures are used for screeds. We'll talk about them further.
Cement-sand composition - classic leveling
Screed based on sand and cement is considered classic and very effective way giving the floors the desired “evenness”. It is recommended for rooms where the difference in the level of the concrete base is five or more centimeters. Technology cement-sand screed characterized by certain difficulties and high labor intensity of the process.
But you can do it yourself in any living space - in the bedroom, hallway, kitchen, and be confident in the strength and excellent reliability of the resulting coating. It is only important to remember that the thickness of the prepared mixture must be at least three centimeters. With a smaller thickness, the strength indicators of the completed screed will be unsatisfactory. We'll tell you how to level a concrete floor using a mixture of sand, cement and water.
First you need to remove all dirt and accumulated dust from it, erase stains from oil solutions, which were used when performing construction or repair work. Then it is laid on the floor waterproofing material- it can be anything. At this stage, it is important to glue the waterproofing joints well and leave allowances near the walls. Next, beacons are installed using a level. For their installation, metal profiles are used, fixed to the floor using gypsum hardening solutions.
The distance between the guides of the “frame” being performed is up to one meter, no more. If the distance is greater, pouring the mixture and leveling it will be difficult. Sand-cement mixture prepared from M-300 cement, ordinary sand and water. Nowadays no one makes such a solution on their own. It is much more convenient to buy dry ready-made mixtures and add water to them in the proportions recommended by the manufacturer of the material.
The composition must be mixed very thoroughly. It's best to do this construction mixer. The finished solution should not spread, but on a flat surface it should spread slightly. Please note that the mixture is applied after stirring for 60–90 minutes (otherwise it will simply harden). Moreover, it needs to be prepared for the entire area of the room at once.
Pouring cement-sand screed - work carefully
The prepared solution begins to be poured from the far corner of the room between the beacons. It is necessary to immediately level the composition after applying each individual portion of it, using the rule. We move it towards ourselves, and not away from ourselves. Also, the rule is to “spread” the mixture on the sides (some level it exclusively along the guides, which is incorrect) in order to achieve a good compaction of the screed layer and fill the existing voids.
Professionals also advise piercing the applied composition with a metal rod of small diameter. This simple action will avoid the risk of air voids appearing in the screed. If a mixture of sand and cement is made large thickness, it is advisable to strengthen the screed with reinforcement from a convenient (available at hand) material. In addition, it is recommended to cut special seams in it (they are called shrinkage joints) every 250–300 cm. Long breaks when laying a cement-sand composition should be avoided.
If you hesitate, “cold seams” are guaranteed to appear on the surface. They will significantly reduce the strength properties of the finished layer. For this reason, leveling the floor with your own hands should not be done alone, but with an assistant. Having laid all cement-sand mortar, it is left for 24 hours, and then using a spray bottle or roller to painting works moisten thoroughly. After 48-60 hours you will need to check how well it has set.
After this, the screed is moistened again and placed on it plastic film. It protects the floor from drying out quickly, which can cause cracks. Over the next 7–8 days, you need to moisten the screed with water once a day. And then the film is removed and the floor is left to dry naturally for another 1–2 weeks. You can safely lay the floor covering that you have chosen on the completed screed in the kitchen or in another room. But first make sure that the screed is done well.
If everything was done correctly, floor surface has a homogeneous grey colour, and when you tap it with a block of wood, it makes the same sound in all parts of the room. We hope we have explained clearly enough how to level a concrete floor using a wet mixture of sand and cement. This technique can be used in all areas of the home, including the kitchen and even outside (on open verandas, terraces). Let's add that finished surface additional sanding is allowed. There is no point in performing such a procedure if the coating was done outdoors. But for living rooms it will not be superfluous.
Grinding is carried out with a special unit (machine), which quickly and efficiently smoothes out all minor irregularities.
Dry screed - how to level floors without water?
A cleaner leveling of the floor with your own hands is carried out using mixtures consisting of granulate, quartz sand, expanded clay or expanded polystyrene, and fiberboard, chipboard, gypsum fiber moisture-resistant sheet materials or ordinary plywood. This screed additionally soundproofs and insulates the room, so it is used in the kitchen or living room in apartments of multi-storey buildings. It is not difficult to do such an alignment on your own, even for a person who is very far from the intricacies of construction.
Advantages of dry screed:
- quick completion of work and the ability to lay the selected floor covering immediately after finishing the leveling operations;
- no need to use water to mix the solution;
- installation allowed engineering communications inside the screed;
- work can be done without assistants, performing it gradually in small areas of separate areas of the room.
In addition, dry screed makes it possible not to worry about the need for additional installation of sound and thermal insulation systems for the floor.
The diagram of how to level a concrete floor using this technology is as follows:
- the base is thoroughly cleaned;
- a waterproofing material is laid - a 50-micron polyethylene film (it is advisable to prime the surface before this);
- scatter the dry mixture over the film and distribute it evenly;
- lay plywood, sheets of gypsum fiber or chipboard, fastening them together with glue and self-tapping screws;
- prime the resulting screed and remove the excess film (cut off its protruding parts).
The work is completed quite quickly. The only problem you may have is that the sheets are prohibited from moving over a layer of dry leveling material. This means that you need to place them in the planned place the first time.
Self-leveling floors - an affordable and convenient leveling method
If in your kitchen or in another room the difference in floor levels is relatively small - up to three centimeters, it is recommended to level them special mixtures, which themselves diverge over the surface. Such compositions are very popular these days. They are made on the basis of cement, to which modifier additives are added that increase the fluidity of the solution.
Such self-leveling coatings cannot be used “bare” - without laying ceramic tiles, PVC materials, linoleum, cork or carpet on them. If you decide to use, for example, in the kitchen, be sure to make them finishing the specified materials. Otherwise, they will actively absorb oils and various liquids.
How to level the floor with your own hands using a self-leveling compound? It's not difficult at all. Follow this pattern:
- prepare the base - remove dirt from it, vacuum, seal even the smallest holes and cracks;
- clean the surface with a primer (special primer composition);
- prepare a small portion of the mixture according to the manufacturer’s instructions (it becomes unusable after 15–20 minutes);
- Apply the self-leveling solution to the floor in 30–50 cm wide strips and spread it with a spatula.
Now just wait until the mixture hardens completely (6 to 24 hours).
Today, leveling the floor with your own hands using a screed is the most the best solution. This is due to the fact that the process itself is quite simple and does not require special tools, knowledge or skills. And there are other ways too.
You just need to follow the instructions that we will provide you with; we will describe in detail the process of arranging floors in various ways.
Classification and various methods of screeding
Leveling the floor in an apartment using a screed is very simple, but there are several types of floors, so their classification was created:
Simple screed
Actually a simple screed, which is made from concrete and impurities to increase its volume, in order to save money. But such savings do not in any way affect strength and durability.
Team
The process of creating such a coating is very different from the standard one, which is why many consider it a special variety, but it still remains the same screed.
floating
It is produced according to the same principle as a standard screed, but a floating layer is poured on top, which significantly increases strength and improves adhesion processes.
Monolithic
Is the most durable and most quality option. The entire mixture is poured in one layer, forming a purely cement surface without impurities and additives that weaken the material. As a result, you get almost natural stone as your floor.
To make a screed from sand and cement, you need to follow these step-by-step instructions:
- Cleaning and priming the base surface.
- Use a laser or water level to find the highest and lowest points in the room. They will serve as a guide. From the highest point, make a mark on the nearest wall about 4-5 centimeters, this will be the level of the future floor.
- Mix cement and sand in a large container, in a ratio of 1 part cement to 4 parts sand. To do this, we use a special mixer or a punch attachment.
- We install the beacons on self-tapping screws, which we screw in in half-meter increments around the entire perimeter of the room. Then we display them in such a way that each beacon is strictly level relative to the starting mark and each other.
- We fix the screws using our mixture along the entire length and wait for them to harden.
- After which we begin to actively mix the concrete and pour it between the beacons.
- You can straighten the mixture using a rule that evenly distributes the concrete over the area.
- After the entire room is covered with a new surface, we wait two days for it to completely harden and you can move on the new floor without any problems.
As you can see, the process is not too complicated, but it still requires some attention from you.
Liquid mixtures
Now you will learn how to level the floor in an apartment using a self-leveling mixture, which will automatically adjust to the required position. First let's figure out what it is bulk mixture- this is a substrate that is diluted with water, in the proportion indicated on the packaging and, spreading over the area, it begins to level itself to an ideal horizontal level.
Complete drying occurs in the same way as when screeding a floor; to confidently move on the surface, it is enough to wait about twenty hours.
Self-leveling floor installation process
It is much easier to equip a floor with such a mixture than using a screed, since you do not need to look for the maximum and minimum points, set beacons, wait for them to harden and other unnecessary actions. You just need to completely clean the surface of the entire room from dust and dirt, prime it and pour the required amount of self-leveling mixture onto the old floor.
The thickness of the layer should not exceed 3.5 cm. When performing work on pouring the solution, you need to remember that the self-leveling floor “rises up” very quickly.
After that, using the same rule or a wooden mop, distribute it evenly over the area. After a few hours, the mixture should straighten on its own and form a smooth surface, after which it will completely harden within a day.
GVL or dry leveling
Gypsum fiber sheets are modern method floor leveling, which helps to level the floor with any difference very quickly and without a drop of water. They are great for multi-story buildings, where there is a risk of flooding neighbors while pouring watery mixtures.
For laying on the floor, it is advisable to choose a waterproof one. gypsum fiber sheet(GVLV) - it is resistant to high humidity.
GVL installation process
Installation occurs in the following steps:
- Complete cleaning of the surface from the old coating.
- Primer.
- Installation of a compensating tape that compensates for the expansion and contraction of sheets.
- Gluing sheets to tape using glue.
- Finishing the seams using leftover glue or any putty.
Laying plywood flooring
If you prefer to use natural coverings, then plywood is exactly what you need. It is made from natural wood, which is glued into a single denser and thicker sheet using natural adhesives without the admixture of toxic materials.
Plywood comes in different thicknesses and strengths, which allows you to choose it based on your needs. A floor made from such a material turns out to be light, durable, and absolutely level if you do everything according to the instructions, which tell you how to level the surface and adhere to all the requirements.
The process begins with the installation of beacons, which are self-tapping screws located over the entire surface at a certain height.
Installation process
Now we will tell you how to level the floor under linoleum, laminate, tiles or any other material using plywood yourself. The whole process is very simple and occurs using the following technology:
- First, we determine the highest and lowest points in the room. To do this, you should use a laser or water level; they will help you mark as accurately and very quickly as possible. We mark the indicated points along the entire perimeter of the room.
- Then we mark the lines where the point support elements will be installed to adjust the level of the future floor.
- We distribute in increments of fifty centimeters support pillars along the marked lines.
- After all the supports are installed, we align them according to the level, so that each one is level with respect to the first aligned support.
- Then we screw the bars along the entire room to the supports.
- We screw transverse bars on top of the longitudinal bars, which will serve as a support for the plywood sheets. The bars must be screwed in increments of thirty to forty centimeters.
- We install sheets of plywood on top of our frame and fasten them with self-tapping screws or nail them.
To effectively cut plywood and save material, effort and time, place the sheets on the floor BEFORE installing the joists
The joints between sheets of plywood can be sealed with glue, sealant or resin to prevent moisture from penetrating from under the floor.
Which floor is faster and more profitable?
If you have decided to make yourself a flat floor under laminate linoleum or tiles, but still wondered which one would be more profitable and faster to do, then you have come to the right place, we will help you resolve this issue. First, you need to separate the two concepts quickly and cheaply; they are incompatible in this matter. First of all, let's disassemble the floor, which can be leveled quickly.
The screed and self-leveling floor will dry more quickly, while wooden floor is built in one day, after which work can immediately continue on it. So in this matter, of course, the fastest way would be to build a wooden floor under linoleum from plywood.
If you want to save money, then the best solution for you would be to level the floor using the screed principle. Since sand and cement have the lowest cost compared to self-leveling mixtures and wood, this floor will be the most profitable for you. So, if you want to level the floor under linoleum and save money, then a floor screed is just for you.
Smooth floors are considered not only the finishing touch of the interior, but also an indicator that the renovation in the house was carried out with high quality. Ideally, the floor should have one level without differences or steps, because in the future from correct installation decorative covering The functioning of doors and furniture will depend. In addition, a crooked floor in residential areas often causes problems with appliances; its unevenness makes it difficult to install a refrigerator or stove.
Today, there are many leveling methods, thanks to which the surface is smooth and subsequently serves as an excellent basis for installing any type of floor covering.
Peculiarities
When renovating a house, it is sometimes necessary to replace floors if they have lost their original appearance or simply do not fit into the modern design housing. Before you start laying new material, you need to not only dismantle, but also level the old floor in the apartment.
Each type of coating has its own characteristics of surface preparation:
- Ceramic tile. Installation of this product carried out on different kinds screeds with mandatory waterproofing and cleaning of the base from dirt and dust. Due to the fact that the tiles are laid on a thick layer of glue, minor unevenness is allowed for its installation in the floor, but in this case the glue consumption will be large.
- Linoleum. The base for laying such a covering requires a flat surface without defects or cracks. Therefore, the screed should be made from high-quality mixtures that will not only preserve old layer floor, but will also eliminate all its flaws.
- Laminate. If its boards are placed on a curved surface, then over time they can undergo deformation and will constantly “creak”. As a result, the floor covering will not last long, and repairs will have to be done again. To avoid this, it is recommended to install the laminate on a perfectly flat base.
- Carpet. To lay it, you will need a well-prepared surface, which must be leveled, cleaned and primed. For this, chipboard sheets are most often used. After laying them, the joints are puttied and primed. You can also fill old wood floors with a self-leveling solution.
To make the base ideal for covering, first of all it is necessary to comprehensively inspect the room and determine in which places there are differences, then find the lowest and highest point of the floor. After this, it will be possible to select a suitable method for leveling the surface and eliminating all flaws. For this, as a rule, a laser level is used.
Such measurements are carried out as follows: a mark is made along the perimeter of the room and, using tools, they are found on the surface desired point, in which all the lines from the perimeter are collected. This will serve as a starting point for determining the height of the floor.
In case you don't have it at hand professional level, you just need to select any point on the wall and draw parallels from it to the ground and, using regular board draw lines.
This procedure must be repeated until it is formed closed loop. The floor should be level from the lowest to the highest point.
Why is this necessary?
There are many reasons for having a level floor. The further fate and operation of not only the floor covering, but also equipment and furniture will depend on the condition of its surface. In addition to all this, the presence of bumps and grooves on the base will spoil appearance rooms.
Most materials do not tolerate defects in the “rough” layer during installation; for example, laminate or parquet installed on a crooked floor will begin to loosen and crack just six months after use. An uneven surface in the bathroom and toilet will cause a serious problem with the plumbing, the drainage system will be disrupted and the water will not drain well.
Floor leveling is important in both residential and non-residential premises.
If you post ceramic tiles in the bathroom on the bumps, then its strength and adhesion properties will be lost, and the product may also “float”, and this will provoke the appearance of voids and dampness: later mold and mildew will appear in such rooms, which will be difficult to remove.
It is worth noting that uneven surfaces are found both in old houses and in new buildings, where slopes often exceed acceptable standards. Therefore, when starting a floor renovation, you should eliminate differences in all rooms of the apartment and make a screed that will correct surface defects and simplify the installation of new coatings.
Methods
You can do the floor repair yourself or use the services of hired workers. Of course, in this case it is best to trust the professionals, but Lately Most home owners prefer to save money and level the flooring with their own hands. In fact, there is nothing complicated about this, you just need to choose the right material and technology for performing the work. First, the old base is dismantled and rubbed down large cracks and apply waterproofing.
After preparing the surface, the level of the future floor is determined and the leveling process begins, which can be done in several ways.
Using a solution
This is considered the most affordable and easiest option for eliminating surface defects. The mixture is prepared from cement, water and sand. The solution turns out to be liquid and spreads evenly over the base, creating a smooth surface.
The work execution stage occurs as follows: on preliminary surface apply a primer, and then prepare a solution and cover the floor with it.
In addition, when preparing the solution, you must strictly follow the “recipe” and the ratio of water to sand and cement; all components are thoroughly mixed with a drill and nozzle. Ready mixture pour onto the surface and distribute evenly around the entire perimeter, while removing air bubbles using a needle roller. This floor dries completely on the third day and is ready for further finishing.
Concrete screed
This technology involves leveling the floor with concrete. The result is a durable monolithic and smooth surface. This screed is used in cases where the bulk mixture cannot be used.
Although concrete is considered a heavy material, it provides the base with a long service life and allows the floor to be perfectly leveled. First, prepare the surface, perform waterproofing and find the zero level. Then beacons are placed around the perimeter of the room and slats are attached or metal profiles, retreating from the walls 30 cm.
The beacons must be placed strictly according to the level, so that upon completion of the work, horizontal guides should be obtained. After the solution has dried, you can begin the screed itself. The main point in this alignment is considered proper preparation mixtures, the slightest inaccuracies can further damage the coating.
The concrete is laid out in strips, performing shaking movements, this will help get rid of air bubbles; after installation is completed, the surface of the solution is moistened with water, covered with film and left to dry for two weeks. This method is often used in panel house, and “new building”.
Bulk screed
Expanded clay is also used to obtain a smooth floor. He is lightweight material, which is easy to install and allows you to eliminate strong slopes with deep holes.
As a rule, expanded clay is chosen when you need to raise the level and level the floor on your own in a “Stalin” building. It will not create large loads on the floors and will ideally eliminate all defects.
In this case, the zero level is chosen to be the highest, since the thickness of the floor will increase by backfilling the material by 4 cm. After preparing the base, set up the beacons and prepare expanded clay, for this purpose the fine and medium fractions are mixed well together.
When the expanded clay is poured, sheets of chipboard or fiberboard are laid on it. It is important to ensure that the seams of the sheets match; self-tapping screws are used to fasten them.
Then the “light” is poured cement mortar and covers waterproofing film, for greater reliability, it is recommended to complete this leveling with a concrete screed.
Alignment by lags
This technology is suitable for wooden bases and involves installing logs on old boards. At the end of the work, the slopes are removed and small irregularities are hidden. For determining zero level in this case, the thickness of the beams is added to the highest point in the room.
Compared to previous leveling methods, this method is characterized by speed and cleanliness.
Most often, logs are used in private houses and apartments on the ground floor. In addition, when performing such alignment, it becomes possible to lay additional communications and thermal insulation.
The base of the floor is prepared, primed and joists are applied. In this case, you can buy as ready material with adjustment and regular bars with a cross section of 40*100 mm. The logs must be laid strictly level at a distance of 50 cm.
If necessary, you can additionally place under the beams plastic gasket or plywood board.
The logs are fixed to the floor using plates or anchors, and the cells formed between them are filled with insulation.
Covering installation
For such leveling, ordinary sheets of plywood or chipboard are used. They are laid in two layers and fixed with self-tapping screws, and the resulting joints are puttied.
What to choose?
When the question arises about leveling the floor covering, everyone wants to find cheap options for this. Recently, in the interior of houses they prefer to make floors from laminate, linoleum or tiles. If you choose a self-leveling mortar or screed for their installation, you will not only have to wait a long time for drying, but you will also need additional expenses on the material. Therefore, it is best to give preference wooden floor, it installs in one day and allows you to continue finishing immediately.
Cement mortar screed is also considered an economical option.
Unlike natural wood, cement and sand are much cheaper, and such leveling is characterized by strength and durability.
How to make a flat floor?
The result of any repair is finishing coat floor, but before this you must do rough screed and level the surface. In order for the floor preparation to be carried out correctly, it is necessary to follow all work technologies and use high-quality material.
Laying laminate and linoleum on old wooden floors has a number of features and nuances. First of all, the base under the finishing finishing material needs to be carefully leveled. If this operation is not performed, the owners of the apartment will certainly have problems in the future. In this article we will talk about how to properly level the floor before covering it with finishing material.
Correcting the surface of an old wooden floor may include two main procedures:
- Bringing the base to a horizontal position;
- Elimination of bumps and holes.
The floor should be leveled in both cases.
Level the floor If the differences in the height of the base are too large, problems such as instability of furniture and jamming of doors may occur after or linoleum. Mount fine coating on a foundation with holes and bumps is also prohibited. Otherwise, the linoleum in the voids will wrinkle, and the laminate boards will begin to creak after a while.
You can identify unevenness in the base under linoleum or laminate using the following technology:
- The highest point in the room is visually determined;
- At this point the level (laser) is installed and set;
- Marks are made where the beam appears after turning on the device.
Defects can also be identified using a regular level.
Reveal unevenness of the base In this case, you will additionally need a long rule. It is laid against the wall and a level is installed on top. If there is a difference, make a mark. Next, the rule is transferred to another wall. In this way, the entire room is measured around the perimeter. The presence of holes and bumps can also be determined using a level rule or board.
So, we have found out how to determine the presence of irregularities. Now let's see.
Level wooden floor under laminate The method for correcting the base is selected, first of all, depending on the degree of defects present on it and the condition of the boards.
If the wood has not rotted and the boards have not become deformed, methods such as puttying, sanding or plywood cladding can be used.
Otherwise, the floor will be repaired first. Then it is either sheathed with plywood or poured. In the same way, leveling is carried out in the presence of large deviations of the base from the horizontal plane (more than 2-3 cm).
If there are no differences in the floor in the room, the boards are even, but there are minor chips and gouges on them, then simple puttying is used for correction.
Simple putty is used The answer to the question of how to level a floor using putty is simple. This procedure is carried out like this:
- The floor is thoroughly cleaned of dust and dirt;
- In places of defects, putty is carefully applied using a spatula. It is desirable that its layer rises slightly above the floor surface. The fact is that most types of putties shrink slightly after drying.
A day after puttying, all treated areas should be sanded with sandpaper.
Plywood sheathing and sanding The choice of technology depends on the depth of the unevenness. Plywood is usually used where it is impossible to correct the situation by scraping.
Before sanding, all furniture must be removed from the room.
Carrying out scraping The floors themselves should be carefully inspected for any protruding nail heads. If any are found, they must be driven into the wood with a hammer, otherwise the sanding equipment may be damaged. The latter can be rented from a parquet maintenance company. Typically, such equipment is rented on a daily basis.
So, how to level the floor by scraping? This procedure is carried out like this:
- The machine is installed at the corner farthest from the door and turns on;
- The floors are looped first along the room and then across. You can also perform the “snake” operation.
Performing alignment scraping machine, it is important to move smoothly, without stopping. Otherwise, even more depressions may form in the floor.
For the first time, coarse sandpaper (No. 24-40) is put on the working part of the unit; for the second pass through the room, medium-grain material (No. 60-80) is applied.
Under heating radiators and in the corners of the room, you will most likely need hand scraping, since the car simply won’t go into such places. Alignment is performed in hard to reach places by using special tool- manual scraping.
Sanding is an excellent answer to the question of how to level a wooden floor. However, if there are significant irregularities on it, it is better to use correction technology with plywood, chipboard or OSB. Sheet materials laid on logs (40x80 mm).
Plywood correction technology The latter are installed using a level and secured to the boards with anchor bolts.
Sheets of sheathing material are cut in such a way that when laying their edges rest on the joists.
It is better to cut the plywood into squares with a side of no more than 60 cm, otherwise its corners may subsequently begin to rise and tear the linoleum or spoil the laminate.
Leveling with sheets of plywood, chipboard or OSB is done by fastening them with self-tapping screws in increments of 50 cm (at a distance of 3 cm from the edge). It is necessary to leave small gaps (4 mm) between the sheets. A technological gap should be made around the entire perimeter of the room (5 mm). If you lay the material closely, it will subsequently begin to deform due to the increase in area when the air humidity in the room increases and spoil the linoleum or laminate.
If there are rotten or severely deformed boards on the floor in the room, they should be replaced before leveling. It will be easy to remove the trimmed ones. It is not necessary to remove them completely.
Warped boards You can simply cut out the damaged areas (from joist to joist). In the tongue and groove boards, cuts are first made and a small piece is removed. Next, the edge parts are removed with a jigsaw. . New board cut according to the size of the resulting opening.
Then the fold is cut off. After this, the board will easily slide into place. If desired, you can put a batten on the adjacent board instead of a fold. Severely deformed boards are replaced in exactly the same way. After the floor is restored, it can be scraped, sheathed with plywood or filled with a self-leveling mixture. In the latter case, beacons made of slats of the required height are pre-installed on the boards.
Of course, you can level the floor correctly and well only if you use quality materials with suitable technical characteristics.
Putty To putty a board base, the following products are usually used:
- Acrylic. Such putties are harmless to health and moisture resistant. The only thing is that they should only be applied to well-dried floors.
- Oily. This variety is durable and has a long service life. Its only disadvantage is that it takes a long time to dry.
- Solvent based. This putty contains wood dust. Since it is not afraid of elevated temperatures, it should be used if a “warm floor” is to be installed under linoleum or laminate.
Only high-quality plywood and chipboard are chosen for leveling. There should be no delaminations in the thickness of these materials. Optimal thickness The sheets themselves are considered 10 cm. As for the leveling mixture, when purchasing it you should carefully read the instructions. It must clearly indicate that the composition can be used on wood.
So, now you know how to level the floor in an apartment under laminate boards or linoleum using different materials.
Level the floor under laminate boards or linoleum Thus, alignment is carried out in several stages:
- If necessary, rotten and deformed boards are replaced;
- The floor is thoroughly cleaned of dirt and dust;
- If the boards are smooth, the base is puttied;
- In the presence of large holes and mounds, scraping is carried out using special equipment;
- If there are deviations from the horizontal or very large holes, leveling is carried out by sheathing with plywood, chipboard or OSB or a self-leveling mixture;
- The floor is cleaned again, after which laminate or linoleum is laid on it.
As you can see, leveling old wooden floors under linoleum and laminate is quite simple. The difficulty in carrying out this operation lies in identifying the presence of the differences themselves.
Identifying the presence of differences themselves This procedure should be performed as carefully as possible, and then the new floor finish will be neat and last a long time.
Video
In this video you will learn how to make your own adjustable floor using plywood sheets.