Running inside finishing works are the final stage in the construction of private houses. The finishing of a wooden house depends on the material of the walls. That is why, before starting work, all wooden elements should be treated antiseptics. In this article we will tell you in detail how to sheathe the inside of a wooden house and how to choose the right material.
Basic requirements for facing material
Walls in a wooden house should be clad taking into account the shrinkage of the structure. The shrinkage process directly affects the selected material. Before cladding a building, pay attention to the following points:
- Seasonality of residence. The house is not always used for permanent residence. When covering with inexpensive materials, there is a possibility of their deformation or cracking, because... in winter, the temperature inside the house will not be comfortable.
- Design parameters. Weight load-bearing structures It has great value, because when they shrink, they can significantly deform the decorative coating.
- Environmental standards of the material. Not all products meet environmental standards; even the most expensive product can release toxins or formaldehyde compounds.
- Cost and appearance. Cheap doesn't mean bad. Expensive material is not always able to be of high quality and fit harmoniously into the overall interior.
When choosing a material, consult with experts and study reviews, then you can clearly answer the question of how to cover the walls in a wooden house.
Material characteristics
A timber house can be sheathed using the following products:
- lining;
- drywall;
- block house;
- PVC panel;
- MDF panel;
- wood material: OSB, chipboard or plywood.
Now let’s look at each cladding material in more detail.
Using lining
The lining is simple boards, with built-in special grooves, due to which the wood fits tightly against each other. The photo shows the floor and walls finished with clapboard
The disadvantage of using lining is that it is stereotyped; such an internal design looks good, but it is unlikely to be possible to give some individuality to the premises. The advantages of lining include:
- huge selection of wood species;
- various types of product processing;
- environmental friendliness of the material;
- pleasant aroma inside the house.
For information! Before covering the rooms with clapboard, it is necessary to assemble a frame from wooden or metal bars. This method will help eliminate all kinds of surface irregularities.
Using a block house
If you like rounded logs, but you don’t know how to cover the inside of a house made of timber, a block house will ideal option. This material is widely used in the decoration of cottages; wood can not only decorate a room, but also provide maximum comfort and coziness. Among the advantages of this material it is worth noting:
- high environmental friendliness, products are made from natural types of wood that undergo special drying;
- mechanical strength allows the product not to lose its appearance and positive characteristics;
- has an aesthetic appearance and can decorate any home;
- easy way to attach.
For information! A block house made of coniferous wood allows you to maintain a favorable microclimate inside the building, and products made of hardwood are highly resistant to moisture.
The disadvantages include:
- low vapor permeability;
- high flammability of the material.
Block house looks great inside a wooden house
Using drywall
Recently, plasterboard is often used to decorate wooden buildings. However, experts do not recommend using gypsum, because... it has a number of disadvantages. If you carry out interior work immediately after building a house, drywall may crack or become deformed during shrinkage. It is also worth noting that after attaching the gypsum sheets, they must be plastered and painted. The joints are sealed, which makes the space in the house clogged.
PVC panel
If you want to save money, but don’t know how to cover the inside of a timber house, a plastic panel is the most economical option. The advantages include:
- ease of installation;
- high resistance to moisture;
- big choice color palette panels.
The disadvantages of the material include:
- low environmental friendliness;
- the panels are not capable of passing steam and air;
- When ignited, they quickly melt and release dangerous and harmful substances to human health.
According to reviews from home owners, the main area of application plastic panels- non-residential or utility premises.
Using MDF panels
MDF panels are made from a more environmentally friendly material than plastic. The surface of the product is quite smooth and does not require complex finishing. The panels can be fastened either directly to the wall or using a frame. Manufacturers produce MDF panels of various designs, colors and textures, with their help you can decorate any room in the house.
It is worth noting that the MDF panel can additionally insulate and soundproof the walls.
Important! In rooms where heating is not provided or there is high humidity, it is strictly forbidden to use MDF!
Interesting colors can make rooms unique and stylish. The photo shows a room covered with MDF
Use of wood material
All products from wood material(OSB, plywood and chipboard) are used to perform rough work, but they are practically not used for final finishing work. In addition, during the production process, wood products are treated with special adhesives and impregnations, which evaporate and negatively affect human health.
For information! Sheet plywood is considered the safest wood product used for finishing work. It is used as a base to level the wall for wallpapering.
We carry out interior cladding of the house
Most often, owners of private wooden houses use clapboard as cladding. As a rule, plastic lining is used for rooms with high humidity, and wooden cladding panels are used for other rooms. Wooden lining perfectly insulates sound, insulates and has a beneficial effect on the microclimate. Before sheathing a house made of timber, the lining is prepared, i.e. treated with a special bioprotective agent. Wood processing allows you to protect the material from rotting, mold and various insects. Next, all products are thoroughly dried. Installation of the lining is carried out on the sheathing. The frame is assembled from ready-made slats and the sheathing is fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws at a distance of 50 cm. A small gap is left between the wall and the cladding, which serves as ventilation. If the structure requires additional insulation, lay special material and cover it with a vapor barrier. Finally, a sheathing is built on which wooden cladding panels will be mounted.
Installation of the lining is carried out in two ways:
- horizontal;
- vertical.
The horizontal method begins with laying from the ceiling to the floor, with the grooves facing down. This arrangement will prevent debris, dust and other foreign objects from getting into the grooves of the boards. To obtain smooth and high-quality masonry, we recommend checking the evenness of the wall every 10-15 panels.
The vertical method begins with laying the panels from the corner. A clamp is fixed into the groove of the rear wall, which is carefully nailed to the sheathing slats. The first panel is secured with nails, the head of which is covered with a decorative corner. The installation of the lining is carried out as in the horizontal method with the obligatory insertion of the planks into each other. Fasteners carefully press the material, and as a result it is lined up into a single fabric. The last facing panel is also fixed with nails. The final stage will be decorating the interior, external joints using decorative plinths, slats and corners. If desired, the panels can be coated with a special varnish, which will provide protection from moisture and temperature changes. The photo shows final finishing inside the house
The presented characteristics of materials will allow you to take into account the features of the structure, its interior design, and will also help you easily answer the question of what is the best way to sheathe your house.
It is obvious that interest in suburban housing, in general, and wooden houses in particular, has grown. We can say that wooden houses are experiencing a rebirth. If previously people bought houses built many years ago and then remodeled them to suit themselves, now many houses are built from scratch and made of wood. And this fact cannot but rejoice. Where else if not in Russia would you like to see beautiful wooden houses, in which you can immediately recognize the famous traditions of Russian architects, and not the meaningless and ugly pile of bricks with which we were “clogged” in the 90s. Where else if not in Russia is it nice to see modern and - regular and rounded, as well as from timber, which have preserved traditions and are made using new technologies.
Observers are interested in seeing the external beauty of a wooden house, and their owners also want to see the internal beauty of their home. And at the same time, you don’t want to give up the benefits of civilization, and why? Therefore, finishing the inside of a wooden house is a complex and multi-level process, which is intended to become a kind of bridge in time. A bridge between centuries-old folk traditions and modern benefits of civilizations. In this case, neither one nor the other party should be disadvantaged. Is it possible? Practice shows that yes!
Requirements for the interior decoration of a wooden house
Wood is a unique natural material that will never surpass any artificial one, which they try to impart the properties of what Mother Nature created. It’s not for nothing that so many floor and wall coverings are made to look like wood. Wood-look laminate, wood-look MDF panels, wood-look ceramic tiles and many other things made to look like this material. Why is this being done? Is it really not possible to just use this same tree and not do anything at all? Of course you can! People will always build wooden houses, but one must understand that in addition to the obvious advantages, wooden houses also have weaknesses.
The fact is that we are not the only people who love trees. It is also loved by other inhabitants of our planet, who perceive it as food or as a home for themselves. We cannot ignore their needs, so we are forced to take this into account. For this purpose, certain barriers are made in the form of chemicals that will repel unwanted living creatures. And events for biological protection of a wooden house are made precisely at the stage of interior decoration.
Wood is loved by another one of the most beautiful and powerful elements of our world - the element of Fire. And there is no escape from this either. We, as humans, cannot make Fire stop loving the tree. We can only take measures to ensure that there are no conditions for its uncontrolled occurrence in our home. That is, we can also “agree” with Fire if we take certain measures. The first measure is to reduce the likelihood of its development, and the second is that even when it appears, you need to resist to the last, you need to prevent it from burning unhindered. Fire protection measures are also carried out at the stage of interior finishing of a wooden house.
A modern wooden house is very different from its “distant ancestors”, where the only engineering systems were a stove and lamps. The energy supply of housing in our time is very high. This includes electrical wiring, a heating system, a water supply system, a sewerage system, computer networks, a telephone, video surveillance, and television. All these engineering systems require space for their placement; they must be designed and made in such a way as to perform their functions and be safe for the house and the people living in it. And all these activities are also done at the stage of interior finishing of a wooden house.
If formerly a tree was the most common and accessible building material, but now it has become elite and building a wooden house is far from a cheap pleasure. For all the undoubted advantages in the form of environmental friendliness, hygiene, and aesthetics, you have to pay a lot of money. And, of course, when decorating the inside of a wooden house, you should use only those materials that will only highlight all its advantages.
Taking into account all of the above, we can present a set of requirements for interior decoration wooden house:
- Firstly, the interior decoration of a wooden house should include measures for biosecurity and fire protection of the house. This is done with the help of special compounds, which, in addition to the protective function, can also perform a decorative function.
- Secondly, the peculiarity of wooden houses is that it is impossible to make walls or make concrete screeds, as in stone houses. It turns out that all engineering communications have to be hidden behind the interior decoration.
- Thirdly, at the stage of finishing a wooden house, they also caulk the walls and additional insulation, if required.
- And finally, when finishing a wooden house inside, most natural materials should be used for completely understandable reasons. Very often it is justified not to cover the walls or ceiling with anything at all, but to leave them open, having previously treated them with protective and decorative compounds.
The peculiarity of wooden houses is that they shrink, and this process can last for several years. This cannot be ignored during interior decoration, so it is done in stages. Let's call these stages:
- Treatment with bioprotective and fire retardant compounds.
- Caulking (caulking) of walls.
- Pad engineering communications.
- Interior wall decoration.
- Ceiling arrangement.
- Floor covering.
- Staining and painting.
Treating a wooden house with antiseptics and fire retardants
As mentioned earlier, wood needs protection, both from unfavorable factors environment, both from various representatives of the world of plants, fungi and animals. Of the natural influences, wood least of all likes the effects of ultraviolet rays, which are present in the solar spectrum and destroy lignin - a compound that is the main one in the structure of woody wood cells. It is this that determines the ability of wood to withstand static and dynamic loads. When it is destroyed, we can observe how the surface of the logs or timber becomes dry, rough and loses its natural color.
The worst thing for wood is fungal infection, and it can be wood-staining or wood-destroying. If the first only creates stains on the surface, but does not affect physical and chemical properties, then the second leads to destruction of the structure. This process is known to us as putrefaction. And if someone claims that it is possible only at high humidity, they will be wrong, since already at a level of 18-20% destructive fungi can develop quite successfully. Primary humidification and lack of air exchange will only promote their growth, since further moisture will be obtained from rotting products.
Some fungi are capable of infecting a tree only during its life, while others, more dangerous for us, develop already in cut down trees. Therefore, in good industries, wood is protected immediately in order to ensure protection during storage, transportation and construction. But such protection is short-lived and lasts from 2 to 6 months, which, in principle, is enough for construction. But only then should you use a longer-acting composition. What to pay attention to when choosing.
- Firstly, you should take into account the validity period of the composition; the longer it is, the better, but also more expensive.
- Secondly, each composition has its own purpose: for external or internal processing, special compositions for baths, for terraces and railings, for processing the ends of logs, etc.
- Thirdly, it is necessary to take into account the composition of the antiseptic. Water-based materials are preferable.
- Fourthly, it is imperative to take into account the effect of the composition on the human and animal body. Some products are strictly not recommended for indoor use.
- Fifthly, some protective compounds are recommended to be used together with protective coatings: wear-resistant varnishes or paints.
- Sixthly, you need to take into account the area to be treated and the number of layers required.
- And, finally, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the experience of using a specific composition, and not read it on the manufacturer’s website or on a thematic forum, but personally verify the effectiveness using the example of a specific treated structure. This way you can be sure of the optimal price-quality ratio.
Let us give a brief overview of some of the most common antiseptics in Russia, produced by the Senezh Preparations company, which are known under the Senezh brand. These drugs have proven themselves well in Russian conditions.
| Image | Name | Description |
|---|---|---|
 | "Senezh Aquadecor" | Designed for long-term protection against precipitation, UV radiation, wood-boring insects and various fungi. It has a toning effect and is made on an acrylate base. |
 | "Senezh Ecobio" | Designed for indoor use. Protects against insects and all types of fungi. The protection period is up to 25 years. Water-based composition. |
 | "Senezh Ultra" | A universal water-based protective composition that can be used both inside and outside. Validity period – up to 30-35 years. Gives the treated wood a pistachio tint. |
 | "Senezh Bio" | Universal preservative water-based, hard-to-rinse antiseptic for severe operating conditions. Validity period is 30-35 years. Gives the tree a greenish tint. |
 | "Senezh Ognebio Prof" | Designed for comprehensive protection indoors and outdoors under a canopy from insects, fungi, as well as from fire and the spread of fire. Water-based composition. |
 | "Senezh Tor" | Designed to protect the ends of large logs from uneven drying, cracking and biological damage. Can be used to protect the ends inside structures. Composition on a water-borne polymer base. |
The table shows only some protective drugs from the Senezh Preparations range, which, in principle, show areas of application. In addition to this manufacturer, there are other well-known world brands Tikkurila, Belinka, Pinotex and others. For each home, depending on the operating conditions, specialists select those that will complete their task. Water-based compositions can be used as primers before finishing varnish or paint, which increases them protective properties and service life.
The compositions are applied to dry wood, cleaned of dirt and dust. Application methods are standard: brush, roller or spray. Autoclave processing is carried out only in industrial conditions. Typically, any composition is applied in at least two layers. The consumption of a particular preparation depends on its specific brand and the condition of the wood. In any case, you must use the instructions for use included with each product.
One of the best ways to apply protective compounds is by spraying Video: How to choose an antiseptic for wood - fire protection, bioprotection, bleaching agents and impregnations
Caulking the walls of a wooden house
Despite all their advantages, wooden houses have a significant drawback - they shrink over a fairly long period of time and also experience seasonal fluctuations in geometric dimensions. This can lead to cracking of solid wood, and also leads to the fact that the seams between logs or beams also change in size and there is no way to do without compaction.
Natural materials for caulking
Since time immemorial, architects naturally knew about this problem and took measures to seal the seams, which was called caulking or caulking. For these activities, three main materials were used:
- Caulk with moss. This method is the oldest and most time-tested. The material used was cuckoo flax, a moss that grows in abundance in forests and also in marshy meadows. Most people probably know the tufts of this moss in the form of soft, bright green cushions. Another type of moss that has been used and is still used is sphagnum, which grows in abundance in swamps; you can get it in required quantity is not difficult.
- Sealing seams with tow. This material, based on coarse linen, is still used today, especially at the stage of building a log house. Excellent insulating properties, centuries-old traditions and low price determine the widespread use of tow.
- Hemp caulking is done with special ropes made from jute or hemp fiber. These natural materials are now widely used to give the seams an aesthetic appearance, which only emphasizes the natural naturalness of the house.
Primary caulking is always done during the construction of the log house or immediately after. The secondary one is done after the final one after its shrinkage, that is, after 18-24 months. Although these works seem simple, they require special care, since caulking is done first from the outside, and then from the inside, and you need to move one crown after another from bottom to top and nothing else. In no case should you seal the seams on a single wall, since the log house can greatly change its geometry - it can become skewed.
For these works, a very simple tool has been used, proven over the centuries. This is a set of special caulking blades and a wooden mallet. Caulks are often made of wood so as not to damage logs or beams during insulation. The dried natural insulation is twisted into strands and carefully hammered into the inter-crown gaps. You can watch the caulking technology in the video.
Natural materials for caulking, of course, have advantages precisely in the form of their naturalness. But it would be stupid in the 21st century not to consider other options for sealing crown joints, especially since science and production technology have come a long way since our distant ancestors had no choice but moss or hemp. Weak points natural insulation materials are:
- Any natural insulation in inter-crown gaps is still a foreign material that reacts differently to the effects of temperature and humidity than wood. As a result, gaps will inevitably appear and repairs will need to be made periodically.
- Natural fibers are not only attractive to humans, so rodents and birds will want to steal some of the valuable fiber for their nests whenever possible. For insects, this is generally an ideal habitat.
Filming from the crime scene. Theft of oakum by birds on an especially large scale - If the humidity in the joints reaches critical values, then it is natural materials that will contribute to the development of fungal infections of the tree. Poorly executed caulking, on the contrary, contributes to the rotting of the log house precisely at the joints.
Video: Caulking a bathhouse log
Synthetic materials for caulking a wooden house
Acrylic ones are rightfully considered to be the first among synthetic sealants for wooden houses. And this happens for obvious reasons:
interventional sealant
- Acrylic compositions have thermal conductivity and coefficient of thermal expansion very close to wood, which allows them to respond equally to temperature changes.
- Acrylic primers have very good adhesion to wood, they penetrate deep into the wood, forming an almost monolithic structure, they also have good elasticity and a long service life.
- Acrylic-based compositions have excellent bactericidal and antiseptic properties. There will be no living creatures in seams treated with acrylic sealants.
- Acrylic primers are available in a wide range of colors, which allows you to realize any design idea. In addition, they can easily be painted after drying.
- Acrylic-based sealants intended for interior use are absolutely harmless to humans and animals.
- Acrylic sealants are very easy to apply. The main condition is a temperature above +5°C and relative dryness indoors or outdoors.
The high price of acrylic sealants is more than offset by their undoubted operational advantages.
Polyurethane-based sealants have also found use in caulking joints with synthetic compounds. Although they have good adhesion to wood, their thermal conductivity and thermal expansion are different from wood. That is why it is better to use acrylic sealants.
On our portal, the process of selecting an interventional sealant and its correct application described in sufficient detail in the corresponding . We will just give a few examples of sealants on acrylic base, and also provide readers with the opportunity to calculate their approximate number depending on the width and depth of the seam.
| Image | Name | Brief description of the sealant |
|---|---|---|
 | Acrylic sealant Energy Seal, packaging – cartridges 325, 840 ml, bucket 19 l. Country of origin - USA. | Designed for sealing narrow and normal seams, as well as cracks up to 2.5 cm wide. Can be used both indoors and outdoors. Available in 12 colors. |
 | Acrylic sealant Perma-Chink, packaging – cartridges 325, 840 ml, bucket 19 l. Country of origin - USA. | Designed for sealing wide joints - from 2.5 to 15 cm. for indoor and outdoor use. Available in 8 colors. |
 | Acrylic sealant Therma Chink, packaging 600 ml, 7 kg, 15 kg. Country of origin: Russia. | For sealing the seams of wooden houses both outside and inside the house. Available in 5 colors. |
 | Acrylic sealant Eurotex, packaging 600 ml, 3 kg, 6 kg, 25 kg. Country of origin: Russia. | For sealing the seams of wooden houses both outside and inside the house. Available in 4 colors. |
The table deliberately shows two sealants of impeccable quality made in the USA and two sealants made in Russia, also of very good quality. good quality. For comparison, we present the order of prices for imported goods and import-substituted ones and make sure that to a domestic manufacturer you should still trust. For example, a bucket of 19 liters of Energy Seal sealant will cost 33,000 rubles as of the summer of 2016, and 15 kilograms of Russian Therma Chink will cost 7,500 rubles. If converted to kilograms, then 1 kg of imported sealant will cost 1089 rubles, and 1 kg of Russian sealant will cost 500 rubles. Therefore, the choice is yours, our dear readers.
For an approximate calculation of the quantity, we present a calculator with which you can calculate the approximate amount of sealant. It is very difficult to accurately calculate the quantity, since the seam between logs or beams rarely has strict geometry, and the consumption is very dependent on the qualifications of the craftsman.
Calculator: Calculation of the amount of acrylic interventional sealant
A private house built of wood cannot always be considered a finished structure, since in many cases it requires external and internal finishing of the walls. There are many different options, but not all of them are suitable for covering this type of building. In this article we will look at how you can cover a wooden house inside and outside and how best to do it yourself.
When to sheathe a wooden house
To begin with, it is worth highlighting those buildings that initially it does not make sense to sheathe the outside in any way, much less insulate them. Whatever finishing option you choose, it will not be cheap, and therefore is not practical for wooden houses for summer or periodic use. As for decorating the inside of a home, this is more a matter of design and the wishes of the homeowner than a necessity. After all, wooden walls made of timber or rounded logs always look attractive.
Now let's look at cases where wooden houses are sheathed from the outside:
- there is a good-quality and strong frame available, but it is quite old, which is why the appearance of the building leaves much to be desired;
- frame buildings made of wood must be clad in any case on both sides, this is their design;
- if a wooden house built from timber or logs needs additional protection and insulation of the walls.
It is not uncommon to find log houses that have stood for more than 50 years and are ready to serve for the same amount of time. Additional cladding from the street will not only change the appearance of the home for the better, but also protect the wood from precipitation and thus extend its service life. The same protection will not interfere with walls that need insulation. Since thermal insulation is usually carried out outside, and not inside, a wooden house, the insulation needs to be hidden behind a water barrier and covered, which will be discussed later.
Advice. Exterior finishing of a wooden house that has just been erected is carried out after 1 year. The shrinkage of buildings of this type is quite significant, as a result of which the external design of the finished walls may suffer and everything will have to be redone.
Materials for external and internal finishing
Despite the wide choice facing materials, their list for wooden houses is somewhat limited due to various reasons. For example, it is relatively inexpensive to decorate a house using plaster, but this method is only suitable for frame buildings sheathed on the outside with OSB sheets, as shown in the diagram below. Plastering a log house or a dwelling made of timber will be problematic.
As can be seen in the diagram, the basic mineral wool insulation located inside the wall is supplemented with a layer of polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene, attached to sheets of sheathing made of OSB plywood. And only after that tinted decorative plaster is applied. But such facade decoration is rare for a wooden house; the following materials for external cladding are more common:
- vinyl siding;
- wood siding, the so-called block house;
- lining;
- complex system “ventilated facade”.
For reference. The cheapest and fastest way to cover the walls of a house is with painted corrugated sheets; this practice also takes place. But at the same time, the design of the building looks very cheap and resembles an industrial building. In addition, corrugated sheets quickly fade in the sun and lose color. Unless you buy expensive material coated with a pattern, as in the photo:
Vinyl siding is a very popular material, it is relatively inexpensive and retains its appearance for a long time, and with its help it is quite possible to sheathe a wooden house yourself. It will be more expensive to decorate the walls with other siding - imitation timber and rounded logs called “block house”.
This is a very attractive and cute material, but requires care, like ordinary lining made of wood.
If we talk about what is the best way to cover a wooden house without reference to the cost of materials, then the “ventilated facade” system is beyond competition. It is a frame made of galvanized profiles, inside of which insulation is attached, and on the outside – finishing elements. Moreover, the latter can look like siding, brick or natural stone - your choice. True, the system can hardly be called cheap, and not every homeowner can handle the installation.
It is easier to solve the problem than to decorate the walls of a wooden house from the inside. For this purpose the following are most often used:
- regular and moisture-resistant drywall;
- OSB chip sheets;
- ordinary cladding boards - lining.
Drywall and OSB are an excellent basis for installing any finishing layer - various wallpapers, tiles and other materials. Moisture-resistant gypsum boards are perfect for interior cladding of a bathroom, and lining is ideal for a bathhouse built inside a house. OSB boards are not used as often inside buildings, since plasterboard is much more environmentally friendly.
A few words about the insulation materials used. It is well known that houses built of wood must “breathe”. This means that the wall material is transparent to vapor, due to which moisture from inside the premises is removed to the outside, passing through the wood. If a vapor-tight barrier is placed in their path, then moisture will begin to condense in front of it, which will lead to the gradual destruction of the fence. Therefore, the use of water-repellent polymers such as penoplex or penofol is not recommended.
The best solution for insulation when finishing a wooden house is mineral or basalt wool. It is vapor permeable and absolutely not subject to combustion.
Exception to the rule - frame building, where the mineral wool layer is part of the enclosing structure, but there is no main wall. Here the insulation is protected from the penetration of vapors by a film on one side and waterproofing on the other, as shown in the diagram:
Covering a wooden house with siding
This exterior finishing of the house can be done with or without insulation, as necessary. But in any case, it is necessary to provide between the vinyl siding and the wall air gap for ventilation. Its task is to remove moisture entering from the outside onto the diffusion membrane, which plays the role of a hydro- and wind barrier. This is why vinyl siding sheets are not attached directly to walls, no matter how smooth they are. First, you need to assemble the sheathing from wooden beams, less often from galvanized profiles.
Advice. Before covering an old log house, you should thoroughly caulk the cracks between the logs, using natural materials - felt, tow or moss.
Width of bars for sheathing during installation exterior finishing without insulation it should be from 3 to 5 cm to provide an air gap. The interval between the slats is 40-50 cm. But first of all it is laid diffusion membrane, it is capable of allowing vapor to pass through, but reflecting water. The membrane sheets are laid horizontally, starting from the bottom, with an overlap of 10 cm and taped at the joints. After this, it is pressed with bars or sheathing profiles installed vertically.
Note. If installation is planned vertical siding, then the bars should be fastened horizontally. They should first be treated with an antiseptic composition.
Also, all openings – windows and entrance doors. In this case, it is better to nail wooden elements to the wall rather than screw them with self-tapping screws. The latter do not allow structures to move during shrinkage or thermal expansion. Important point: the surfaces of all bars must be strictly vertical and aligned in one plane. Now you can begin installing the siding, using the starting and other types of planks shown in the figure:
When adjusting the siding, it is important to take into account its thermal elongation, so the ends of the vinyl strips should not rest against the nests of the corner strips standing on the sides (meaning horizontal installation). The strips must be cut and inserted between the planks with a gap of 3-5 mm, and the nails must not be driven in all the way. This is why oval holes are made in the siding so that the strip can move a little. By the way, installation is carried out from starting bar- down up.
When the length of 1 strip is not enough to cover the entire wall of a wooden house, then you need to install one or more connecting strips, placing them as aesthetically as possible. Although siding can be laid with an overlap (without a strip), it looks similar connection unpleasant, and therefore should be used as a last resort. Well, there are special vinyl planks for framing windows and doors.
If it is decided to combine the finishing process with insulation, then the work procedure also includes laying thermal insulation material. Considering its thickness (at least 100 mm, and in the northern regions up to 150 mm), it is necessary to take lathing bars of the appropriate width. Moreover, the membrane is not applied directly to the wall, but already on top of the insulation. It is secured by nailing 30 mm thick counter-lattice strips on top. Further work is carried out in the same way as described above.
Decorating a wooden house with a block house
In essence, a block house for cladding a house is the same siding, only made of wood, and the algorithm for carrying out the work is the same.
True, there are a number of differences that we will focus your attention on:
- There are no starting, corner or connecting strips here. All joints will have to be faced from the outside with shaped wooden elements;
- strips of block house are cut strictly to size, and when forming internal and external corners, the material is cut at an angle of 45° for joining;
- The panels are fastened from bottom to top using nails or special clamps. True, the latter tend to unbend and the stripes may fall out over time;
- When the boards are oriented horizontally, it is better to install them with the tenon up and the groove down.
One of the most complex units is the adjoining of the cladding in the form internal corner. Of course, you can ignore the resulting gap and sheathe the corner with a shaped element. But in order for the cladding of a wooden house with a block house, made by yourself, to be of high quality, it is worth cutting out an arched cutout in the adjacent part, as shown in the photo:
At the end on finished surface an antiseptic primer is applied, after which it is finished with several layers of varnish or paint.
Interior finishing with clapboard
This is one of the most popular methods of cladding the inside of private wooden houses, used in almost all rooms, and especially in the steam room. There are currently several types of lining available for sale:
- classical;
- block house;
- softline;
- landhouse;
- American.
The technology for covering walls inside the house is the same for all types, and work begins with installing a vapor-proof layer of film and installing the sheathing. The film is laid out with an overlap of 10 to 15 cm, after which the joints should be carefully taped with double-sided or regular tape. From above it is pressed against the wall with sheathing slats, whose thickness is 20 mm. The slats are nailed to the wall vertically (when installing the cladding horizontally) at intervals of 40-50 cm.
Important. All sheathing slats must be placed in one vertical plane using various pads or mounting wedges.
The first board is secured with self-tapping screws at a distance of 40-50 mm from the floor, taking into account the subsequent installation of the plinth. It is best to secure all subsequent planks using metal elements- clamps, put on the previous board and nailed to the sheathing bars with nails. It is not recommended to fasten the sheathing by driving nails into the grooves of the lining.
As with external cladding the house is a block house, all joints and corners should be lined with shaped parts or wooden plinths. After this, all that remains is to treat the wood with an antiseptic and cover it with several layers of varnish. The finishing technology is shown in more detail in the video:
Interior finishing with plasterboard
Drywall is an excellent material for rough finishing of any internal surfaces of a wooden house, including the ceiling. Also, moisture-resistant plasterboard is indispensable in rooms with high humidity - in bathrooms and dressing rooms. Subsequently, you can lay tiles on it or apply liquid wallpaper. The technology here is simple: first, galvanized profiles are attached to the wall or ceiling so that their shelves are in the same plane. To strengthen the structure between vertical profiles jumpers are installed from the same profiles.
Sheets of drywall are screwed to the shelves of the profiles with self-tapping screws so that their caps are flush with the surface of the plasterboard. The step between adjacent screws is 10-15 cm. Where it is impossible to screw a whole sheet, you need to accurately measure and cut off part of it. This is done with a sharpened knife or a specialized tool. When the wall is completely sewn up, the joints and heads of the screws need to be leveled with putty, which should be rubbed down after drying sandpaper. At this point, the surface is ready for further cladding.
Conclusion
Thanks to currently existing facing materials, it is possible to give any wooden house a presentable appearance, and even “turn” it into stone using external cladding. In addition, finishing will allow you to preserve the wood longer and increase the service life of the building as a whole. It will not be superfluous to take measures to insulate the house from the outside, which will result in lower heating costs.
A lot of materials are used for construction, but residential buildings built from wood continue to be popular. The atmosphere in a wooden house is characterized by positive energy and comfort. However, the interior decoration of a wooden house is accompanied by many nuances.
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Start of finishing work
It is worth immediately noting that it is not worth starting finishing work from the inside of the house immediately after its construction. The structure is made of wood and must stand for some time and shrink. For houses built from laminated veneer lumber, this period is about a month. Other wooden houses must stand for at least ten months before finishing work begins. The exact timing is determined based on the moisture content of the material, the climatic conditions of the region and the time of year. During this time, the wood that served as the material for construction dries out. Accordingly, the timber or logs are reduced in size, and at the same time the insulation laid between the rows of the log house is compressed. Premature start of finishing work in a wooden house will lead to the fact that the cladding will be distorted or will not stay on the wall at all. In other words, haste in finishing a wooden house will lead to additional costs of time and money.
Log crowns and their tightness
You can ensure the tightness of the wooden walls of the house with the help of tow; jute material is sometimes used with moss. The process of sealing the cracks between the crowns of a log house is called caulking. As a rule, caulk a log house in two approaches. The first time this happens 1-1.5 months after completion of construction, and the second time after 6-8 months. The cracks between the rows of timber or logs are caulked, immediately from the outside and from the inside. Otherwise, the structure may warp. Therefore, in the process, the caulks move along the walls of the house and seal them alternately on both sides. Caulk starts from the lowest crowns.
It is worth noting that after caulking the log house becomes 5-7 centimeters higher. Then, the weight of the walls of the log house makes itself felt and it settles. As a result, insulation laid between rows of timber or logs reliably seals the walls. The temperature in the house depends on the quality of this work. In addition to preserving heat, the second caulk allows you to eliminate small distortions that arose during the process of settling the log house.
Interior decoration of the walls begins only after they are finally caulked and the house itself has settled. The shrinkage process of the building is checked using control measurements of the height of the walls. A wooden house is considered ready for interior decoration if, after the second caulking, the height of its walls has not changed for 90 days.
Sanding walls inside a wooden house
In some cases, finishing work inside a wooden house is not required. This is true for houses built from quality material and as a result having a pleasant appearance, both outside and inside. In this case, you can significantly save money. The walls of such a house just need to be sanded and painted. It is better to use a varnish coating to protect the floor from abrasion. Walls and ceilings can be treated with special paints and water-based antiseptics. The surfaces treated with them will not lose their natural appearance, but on the contrary, the texture of wooden walls will become more expressive. The use of antiseptics is necessary in any case, if, of course, you want to maintain the pleasant external design of wooden walls.
A caulking seam between rows of timber or logs can spoil the impression of any wooden walls. Therefore, to refine such a seam, a twisted cord is used. It not only acts as a decorative decoration, but also additionally protects the premises from drafts.
Lathing and its significance in the interior decoration of a wooden house
Sanding the walls of some houses will no longer bring any benefit. This applies to overly old or crooked buildings. For the interior decoration of such houses, options such as products made from plasterboard, lining, decorative panels, etc. are used.
Installation of any such finishing material involves the use of a frame or sheathing that will help level out the curvature of the walls. In addition, the presence of the lathing will allow air to circulate freely. For wooden structure, this is an important factor. As a result of natural air movement, the wall material will not change color and will not rot. Only dry wood is not subject to these processes. Circulating air between the walls and finishing materials will allow the wood of the walls to maintain its normal condition.
The distance between the wall and the finish is also used for laying cables and wires of various communications: electricity or household appliances. Electrical wiring, by the way, in wooden houses should only be installed in pipes made of non-flammable material (corrugated stainless steel pipes are the most common). If necessary, a material providing thermal insulation is placed in the gap provided by the sheathing. However, if the house maintains a comfortable temperature, you should not use any additional materials. Wood itself does an excellent job of maintaining the required humidity in a room, and excess materials can do harm rather than good.
However, fixing finishing materials to the sheathing also has its drawbacks. For example, if insects or rodents appear between the wall and the cladding, it will be quite difficult to eliminate them. However, before attaching finishing materials to the wall, it will need to be leveled. An absolutely flat surface of wooden walls can be difficult to achieve, but with the right approach, it is quite possible. In order to seal the gaps and cracks remaining between the wall and the cladding, special mastics are used. Once upon a time, clay was used instead, and in some places it is still used. 
Regardless of the finishing materials, it is necessary that a gap of at least 20-40 millimeters be maintained between the cladding and the ceiling. This will play the role of insurance in case additional shrinkage new home. For an old building, the gap will compensate for changes in the wooden walls. A material such as wood “breathes” throughout its entire service life. It changes accordingly: it swells when it takes on water, or it dries out. A gap left under the ceiling in time will allow the metamorphosis of wooden walls to remain without consequences for the facing materials. The absence of such precautions can lead to deformation or the appearance of cracks in finishing materials. To ensure that the gap does not stand out against the general background, a ceiling plinth is used; it is rigidly fixed only to the ceiling.
Lining for interior decoration of a wooden house
Manufacturers offer a variety of options for facing materials for interior decoration. However, to decorate a wooden house, they often resort to lining. It allows you to maintain the overall style and atmosphere of a wooden building. Such material can be used both for exterior finishing, and for internal ones (only the methods of processing them differ). The lining can be the most different types. Moreover, we are not talking about the wood from which it is made and not about its size. The profile of the lining, depending on the wishes of the customer, can be modified. There are wavy or even design of the material, as well as imitation of timber or logs (block house).
To finish the walls inside a wooden house, lining 15-20 millimeters thick is used. Its cost is less than that of thicker analogues, but such material fulfills its tasks. You can arrange the lining boards in any order: horizontally, vertically, at an angle. Those with remarkable patience and hard work are able to create entire paintings from lining.
When fixing the lining to the sheathing or to the walls, do not forget about possible shrinkage of the house. To compensate for possible changes in wooden walls, leave a gap of 20-40 millimeters near the floor and ceiling.
Decorative wall panels
Often, decorative panels are used for interior decoration of houses and apartments. There are claddings made from different materials and imitating a variety of surfaces:
- MDF panels (veneered or laminated).
- Glass panels: smooth, corrugated, colored, matte, transparent.
- Polymer panels.
- Panels made of wood or bamboo.
- Leather panels.
The panels also differ in size; they are produced in the form of slats assembled together or directly in the form of a shield (sizes vary). The lining, by the way, is the same panels, but it stands apart because... this material was used for finishing work long before the appearance of other similar products.
Decorative panels are fixed to the wall, usually using lathing. The thickness and location of the bars, which depends on the type and size of the selected decorative panels. This finishing material popular among designers and homeowners because the abundance of colors, sizes and materials allows you to create unusual, memorable interiors. Decorative panels They also differ in price. For example, panels made of polymers and MDF are significantly cheaper than leather products.
Some types of panels are mounted only with glue (gypsum products), so to fix them to the sheathing, additional gypsum fiber boards or plywood are used. These are called backing panels and are attached to the sheathing first. The main facing panels are already glued to them.
Drywall in a wooden house
The interior decoration of walls with plasterboard is no different from the decoration of rooms made of other materials. Drywall is attached to a pre-assembled frame. True, as in other cases, it is necessary to leave a safety gap.
The main condition under which it is permissible to finish walls with plasterboard is the operation of the house for several years, i.e. the house must be warmed up and undergo final shrinkage. This is due to the fact that plasterboard is fragile, and with significant changes in the geometry of the walls, it will become unusable. Such metamorphoses of wall surfaces can be ignored if the frame is movable. To do this, its profiles are not fixed too rigidly to the walls.
When finishing walls with plasterboard, there is one more nuance: all joints and seams, as well as in the corners, must use reinforcing mesh. The use of such a mesh will prevent or slow down the occurrence of cracks in problem areas.
Interior decoration of an old wooden house
If the age of the wooden house in which finishing work is planned is several decades, then the first step is to assess the safety of the wood. To do this, you will need to dismantle all the old cladding. After which, carefully examine all places that differ from the general background of the wall surface in color or texture of the pattern. If necessary, suspicious areas should be checked by trying to damage them with a knife, screwdriver or chisel. If the tree has a dense structure everywhere and has no signs of mold or fungi, then you can begin finishing work. In some cases, it is recommended to treat the wood with special impregnations. When using them, remember that such impregnations are based on chemical elements.
However, if the wall material crumbles due to mechanical stress, then it is necessary to identify the causes of destruction. The most likely options are the appearance of insects, mold and other microorganisms. Sometimes, an outside specialist is invited to determine treatment methods for the infected section of the wall. Damaged areas of wooden walls must be dismantled and replaced; areas adjacent to these elements will need to be intensively treated with special compounds.
After assessing the condition of the walls of the old house, and carrying out repairs if necessary, you can begin interior decoration. Work on decorating the premises of an old wooden house is carried out in the same order as described above. The only difference is that the safety gap should not be left.