Ideal machine for the production of mesh "Chain-link"
The design of the machine is very simple. Draw a beautiful zigzag of the required length and width on the board, drive a nail into each corner of the zigzag, put on gloves, take soft wire(aluminum or steel tie) and lay the wire on the board, going around each nail. Trim off the excess wire and remove the spiral from the nails. Repeat this operation 10-20 times (depending on the width of the mesh), screw the spiral into the spiral. All! In front of you will be a mesh sheet the length of a drawn zigzag.
Now let's move on to the description of an ideal (according to our concepts) machine. If someone doesn’t like his design, let him adapt it to his specific conditions, guided by the principle - “try to do well, but bad things will turn out on its own.”
A similar unit was proposed in various publications earlier, but was of little use. After all, even if the roll rotates easily in it, the wire will still be fed unevenly, that is, with variable tension, as a result of which the length of the spiral pitch will be unequal.
Schematic flow diagram for the production of chain-link mesh from wire
a - feeding device; b - tension device; c - device for lubricating wire; d - work table with a winding device that forms a spiral; d - receiving drum
This will happen because the mass of the wire roll is large, so it will first need to be moved from its place, and then, by inertia, it will begin to scroll further. Thus, when forming a spiral, the wire will always be fed in jerks, and you will also have to expend effort on rotating a 100-kilogram roll.
Optimal system"winding" long material from a reel has long been known - this is an industrial knitting machine in which the thread is simply removed when pulled upward from a stationary bobbin. The platform (base) of the feeding device measuring 90x90 cm is made of 5 mm steel.
1 - bearing; 2 - leash; 3 - ring
A steel axle about 1 m long and 3/4 in diameter is installed (welded, screwed) in the center of the platform. A bearing with a driver and a ring is mounted on the end of the axle. 3-4 steel rods with a diameter of 12 mm (for example, hexagonal) are welded to the axle.
A coil of wire lies on the platform. The end of the wire (it is better to pull it out from the inside of the coil) is passed through the ring and tucked into a tension device, consisting of a lubricating device and a system of rollers, which ensure the tension of the wire.
A - general form; b - roller; c - felt plug
1 - bearing race; 2 - bicycle pump housing; 3 - roller; 4 - holes for the roller axis
The tensioner frame has the shape of a right triangle (dimensions are arbitrary). The “legs” of the triangle are made from angle steel, the “hypotenuse” is made from a 5 mm steel strip with a width of 70 mm. Holes for installing rollers are drilled on this strip. The figure shows only 9 holes for the roller axes, but in fact there are at least 30 of them, which allows, by installing the rollers in the required holes, to ensure the required wire tension.
The lubricating device (it is located on the “hypotenuse” strip of the tensioner frame, above the rollers) can most easily be made from a hand bicycle pump. Saw off the bottom of the housing and attach the latter to the strip with clamps so that the sawn-off part of the pump housing is at the top. It is desirable that the pump cap (it is at the bottom) screws freely onto the body, fixing a felt plug with a cut in it.
The cut in the cork is necessary so that any knots or twists on the wire can pass through the cork freely. Thick green diesel oil can be poured into the housing from the pump.
1 - clip; 2 - pump housing with oil; 3-wire
Please pay Special attention The fact is that when entering the tube of the pump body, the wire should not touch the edge of the tube, otherwise during operation the latter will be immediately sawn through. Therefore, it is better to install a guide ring made of hard material in front of the tube. This could be a race from a tapered roller bearing. It is welded to the strip after careful fitting.
The winding device, with the help of which the spiral is formed, consists of a pipe with a spiral slot and a knife. The length of the vertical diagonal of the cell of the future grid will, of course, be equal to twice the internal diameter of the pipe. We’ll talk about which pipes are best suited for a winding device below, but for now let’s figure out how to form a spiral-shaped slot in a pipe. And they do it like this.
Take, for example, a pipe with internal diameter 40 mm, the spiral pitch in this case will be 1.75 times larger (why we stopped at this pitch, we will also explain a little later). So, our step will be 40 mm x 1.75 - 7 cm. Next we cut off paper strip 7 cm wide and about 50 cm long, lubricate one of its sides with glue and wind it onto the pipe with a gap of 4 mm.
We place the strip on the pipe, of course, with the side coated with glue.
The length of the pipe must be such that it can accommodate at least three full turns of the strip.
Now you need to cut the pipe along the gap line. You can use a hacksaw or a grinder with a cutting wheel of small diameter for this - this is faster, but more dangerous.
Do not forget to process the cut surfaces with a flat file and sand them with sandpaper.
All that remains is to select a steel corner with 20 mm flanges, prepare from it two sections of the same length as a pipe “with three turns”, and use welding to form a structure from the “cut” pipe and corners. Using the same welding, we attach the latter to a steel base, where two holes with a diameter of 10 mm are provided for attaching the base to the table. You can have several such winding devices and use them to weave meshes with 40x40 mm cells; 75x75 mm and 150x150 mm.
Knife for winding soft wire without twisting (top). the more elastic the wire, the greater the twist angle of the knife (bottom)
1 - knife; 2 - pipe with a cut spiral
Now about the knives for winding wire.
For each pipe you need to prepare 3 - 4 knives different shapes. The fact is that it is more convenient to wind relatively soft wire with a flat, even knife, while elastic wire requires a twisted knife, and more elastic wire requires a knife with a large twist angle. The shanks of all knives are the same: diameter 20 mm, length 50 mm.
Any steel is suitable for a straight knife, but it is better to make twisted knives from harder spring steel, otherwise they will quickly form grooves at the entrance to the spiral slot that do not allow the wire to slide into the spiral.
Of course, the knife should not dangle freely in the pipe, since otherwise, when winding the spiral, the wire will probably get jammed between the edges of the knife and the pipe. It is easy to adjust a straight knife to the desired width. But you will have to tinker with a twisted knife, since during the twisting process the width of the knife blank decreases. Therefore, for such a knife, select a strip 1-2 mm wider than necessary, clamp it in a vice (in a vertical position), heat it evenly with a heating pad and turn its upper end to the desired angle. The untwisted ends of the workpiece are cut off, a shank is attached, and then the width of the knife is manually adjusted so that the gaps are micron, not millimeter. Then they grind the edges of the knife and harden the part of the knife located near the shank.
so as not to have to worry about ensuring alignment, a cardan is installed between the blade shank and the pulley axis. A pulley connected by a drive belt to an electric motor is mounted on an axle that rotates in two bearings. The pulley (its diameter is 500 mm) is equipped with a handle so that the pulley can sometimes be turned by hand. A pulley is installed on the engine, the diameter of which is 5-7 times smaller than the diameter of the pulley connected to the knife.
This ratio of pulley diameters makes it possible to reduce the rotation speed of the knife and increase the force it develops.
It would be nice to put a friction gear from an industrial sewing machine and a control pedal, but this is all at the discretion of the craftsmen. If possible, it is better to use a “helper” instead of an electric motor.
1 - fixed board; 2 - rotating board; 3- spring; 4 - device for winding mesh fabric (optional)
Installation for the production of mesh "Chain-link" (top view)
1 - feeder with wire; 2 - table (0.5x1 m) with tension device; 3 - cardan; 4 - pulley with handle (motor under the table is not shown); 5 - mechanism for forming a spiral; 6 - control pedal; 7 - mounting table size 0.3x2 m
The productivity of winding spirals in this case will be higher, since the engine sometimes winds so much that you won’t be able to untangle it in an hour. It is especially good to work with a “helper” when the wire is not in a coil, but in pieces, and you have to often stop the winding to connect the pieces. And the latter is the direct responsibility of the “helper”.
All that remains is to make an assembly table on which we will combine the spirals into a grid.
Before you begin, place the coil of wire on the feeder, pull the wire through the lubricator and rollers and begin to form the first spiral.
Over time, you will learn, by bending the wire, to immediately determine which knife should be installed in the winding device. When selecting the position of the tensioner rollers, ensure that the spiral comes out of the machine completely flat (a).
a - normal tension (flat spiral); b - the wire is “understretched”; c - the wire is “tightened”
Having pulled the movable board on the mounting table, insert a piece of spiral of the required length into the resulting gap so that its left turn engages with the first turn of the next spiral being formed. By pressing the pedal, turn on your setup. in a couple of seconds the spirals will weave together. After this, stop the installation, separate the resulting spiral with pliers, clamp it in the table and, having interlocked the turns of the woven spirals, press the pedal again.
If you weave a mesh with a large cage from a coil of wire, you can form 80-100 m of mesh per day. But coils of wire have long become an unattainable luxury. You have to make a mesh from pieces of wire of any length. The usual length of a piece is 50-60 m, which corresponds to the distance between telegraph poles (after all, when telegraph operators change wires, they cut off the old ones and throw them away).
In some regions, such “raw materials” are often simply lying around unattended, mostly copper-plated steel wire with a diameter of 2-4 mm, but there is also wire coated with aluminum (unfortunately, when winding spirals on a machine, the aluminum coating is peeled off). During work, pieces of wire can simply be laid on the ground; even in such conditions, it flows evenly.
Connect individual pieces of wire together with simple loops, forming a “knot” in front of the lubricating device. Then slowly pull the “knot” all the way to the knife by hand.
It is important that the “knot” lies in the middle of the knife plate. If the “knot” is on the edge, then shorten the wire that is already drawn into the winding device by a couple of centimeters, thereby moving the “knot” to Right place.
And don’t be afraid to knit a mesh from relatively short pieces of wire. After all, even if there are 10-15 connections, this will not affect either the strength of the mesh or its appearance.
And a little about the receiving drum in the previous design, on which at first glance it is convenient to wind the finished mesh. It would be possible, for example, to place such a device under the mounting table of our device. But it is probably better to refuse to wind the canvas, since identical pieces of mesh framed in a frame are much more convenient than an endless canvas. Such frames can be made from wire with a diameter of 5-8 mm.
For example, the machine has a winding device with an 80 mm pipe. The mesh is obtained with a diamond-shaped cell, the diagonals of which are 12 cm and 15 cm. Prepare a mesh of 36 spirals of 20 turns each, pulling out the formed piece from under editing table, and spread it on the site, laying thick wire around the perimeter. Bend the ends of the spirals so that you get a standard rectangle measuring 1.75x3 m. Such a “block” of mesh is easy to carry and attach without outside help.
In the winding device it is quite possible to use ordinary water pipes, although their steel is a bit soft, and the inner surface is not particularly smooth. Therefore, it is better to choose some kind of hydraulic cylinder.
It is honed and nickel-plated inside, so it will last quite a long time. The fact is that if the edge of the cut adjacent to the knife is made of mild steel, then the wire moving along it will quickly “eat”.
a - new pipe; b and c - cuts after a year and a year and a half of operation, respectively
1 - knife; 2 - pipe; 3 - wire
First, a notch appears there, then the wire begins to be pulled between the knife and the pipe, as a result the winding device jams and all that remains is to throw it away.
In general, it's only worth spending the effort on water pipes if you already have an unlimited supply of aluminum, copper or soft binding wire. In this case, they will also fit.
Note that the stresses arising inside the winding device are very high. Sometimes a steel wire with a diameter of 3 mm breaks due to tension, and this requires a force of hundreds of kilograms.
The stresses in the wire are especially high when you make a mesh with a square cell, that is, the slot in the pipe is located at an angle of 45 degrees. As a result, sometimes even the zinc from the wire flakes off, which is why the mesh quickly begins to rust. Therefore, as already mentioned, it is better to abandon a grid with square cells, giving preference to grids with diamond-shaped cells.
And finally, a few practical advice.
It is advisable to thread the wire into the winder infrequently. The machine can be “charged” almost constantly, just add more and more wire. And this is very convenient, since initial refueling requires certain skills. The winding device is refueled like this. The end of the wire is bent 180°, the resulting “hook” is hooked onto the knife and, slowly turning the knife, the part of the “hook” protruding above the edge of the knife is inserted into the pipe slot. Carefully make another half turn, being sure to press the end of the wire against the knife with a long screwdriver. The fact is that when the wire moves in the slot, the “hook” tends to unbend due to increased stress, but this cannot be allowed, because otherwise the wire in the winding device may jam. So you have to “follow” the end of the wire with a screwdriver until it exits the pipe. And in order not to thread new wire into the machine each time, stop working at the moment when the second end of the wire piece has not yet “gone” into the lubricating device. Thus, when resuming knitting the mesh, it is enough just to connect a new one to the “old” wire, not forgetting to correct, if necessary, the position of the “knot” on the knife.
If suddenly the wire runs out certain type and you had to use wire with a different elasticity, installing a knife of a different configuration, then the pitch length of the spiral from the new wire will certainly change by 1-2 mm. Therefore, the first spiral of the new wire will have to be screwed into the previous one relatively slowly, but the second spiral will twist without problems.
It is advisable to pre-anneal a rigid elastic wire, but it is very difficult to anneal the wire directly in a coil efficiently, so usually after annealing, sections of wire with different elasticity will alternate in the coil. And if the wire is coated with zinc, then during annealing the latter will burn, as a result of which the wire will lose half of its value. Draw your own conclusions from what has been said.
When forming a mesh fabric, the knife must be positioned vertically when the machine is stopped, and in order for the initial zigzags of the screwed-in spirals to take the desired position when connecting them, the lower spiral is moved to in the right direction using the mounting table clamping board.
If the mesh is not needed at the moment, do not weave a fabric from the spirals, but simply fold the spirals together, as a result of which they will take up very little space. In the future, it is easy to obtain a mesh fabric of any length from these spirals, either by cutting the spirals or by adding them with the same spirals.
Chain-link mesh is considered truly universal building material. It is used in the construction of buildings, for the formation of fences, as well as in landscape design. To save money, you can make a machine for making chain-link mesh with your own hands.
Choosing the shape and material of manufacture for the chain-link mesh
It consists of several wire blanks a certain shape, intertwined with each other. The main material is galvanized or black steel. The wire diameter can be from 0.5 to 2 mm depending on the model. Performance properties are also taken into account.
To produce a chain-link mesh with your own hands, you must select the shape of the cells in advance. It depends on the application and the required technical characteristics. There are currently two accepted cell forms:
- rhombic. The wires are located at an angle of 60 degrees relative to each other;
- square. Characterized by right angles relative to the connecting elements.
You must also select in advance optimal height. It is noteworthy that the machine will not affect this parameter. But the shape of the cells depends on it. The height can vary from 0.5 to 2 m, but the rigidity of the structure must be taken into account. If it is used as a fence, the height will usually be 1.5 m.
The optimal length of a do-it-yourself chain-link mesh roll is usually 5 m. This will allow you to install the material without increasing the labor intensity of the work.
Production stages of a chain-link mesh machine
To produce a machine with your own hands, you need a minimum of skills and no a large number of tools. It is important to draw up the drawings correctly. To do this, first an audit of the available material is carried out, and then, based on the data obtained, a scheme for the manufacture of equipment is formed.
At the first stage, you need to familiarize yourself with general technology. It consists of controlled deformation of steel wire for further weaving. Technologically, this is carried out in two stages. First, the workpiece is aligned, and then, using a special block, the wire is bent at a certain angle.
To carry out these processes, do-it-yourself chain-link mesh production equipment must include the following structural components:
- wire straightener. It consists of three small shafts. The outer ones serve as a support, and the one in the middle is designed to level the workpiece. Its positions must be adjusted relative to other shafts. The block is manufactured separately from the main machine;
- homemade shaping machine structural elements. It consists of a pipe with a diameter of 60 mm, inside of which there is a plate. A handle is attached to one part of it by welding. Angular spiral cuts are formed on the surface of the pipe, the distance between which will determine the future dimensions of the cell. Usually it is 5-7 cm.
To increase productivity, the wire deformation unit must have a platform. Most often, a steel plate is used for this, the dimensions of which exceed the diameter of the pipe by 2-3 cm. Holes are drilled in it for mounting on a desktop.
Additionally, a lubricating fluid supply unit is installed on the leveler. It is necessary to reduce the likelihood of marriage.
If it is necessary to increase the production speed, instead of manual drive an electric motor is installed. However, it is necessary to consider a mechanism for reducing speed.
After forming blanks from steel wire of a certain shape, it is necessary to connect them into a single structure. To do this, it is recommended to adhere to the accepted technological scheme. It is in many ways similar to the same production process, but adapted for manual labor.
The first section is attached to wooden surface using screws or staples. The next piece is woven into the first row. At this stage it is important to control the overall height. The same principle is used to form the entire roll. If ferrous metal was used as the main manufacturing material, the surface must be painted after installation. This is not necessary for stainless wire.
To reduce the labor intensity of the work, a cutting device can be installed in the pipe structure. This is true in cases where steel wire is used large diameter. As an alternative, you can consider using metal scissors. However, they may not cope with the task if the wire diameter is more than 1.5 mm.
The video describes in detail the design of a machine for making chain-link mesh with your own hands:
A chain-link fence has a neat appearance, and its construction requires very few building materials. The main one, of course, is a chain-link mesh, which serves as a barrier against stray dogs and uninvited guests.
If you want to make a chain-link mesh with your own hands at home, then even a non-professional can do it. Weaving mesh netting is done on a homemade machine, which has a fairly simple design.
To start weaving a chain-link mesh at home, you will need to prepare something for this. First of all you will need:
- Metal rollers;
- A small piece of channel;
- Wire feeder, in other words a rotating drum;
- or other bending machine.
Initially, it is necessary to make a screw with a spiral-shaped slot through which the wire will pass, twisting in the desired direction. The size of the mesh cells of the chain-link mesh depends on the distance of the slots on the pipe.
From the edge of the pipe with slots, it is necessary to weld a sharp blade (knife) that will guide the wire into the grooves when twisting it. To make weaving the chain-link mesh as convenient and easy as possible with your own hands, the edges of the slots must be carefully processed with a file, removing burrs on them.
After making the auger, it is necessary to prepare two pieces of angle, exactly the same length as the auger itself for weaving the chain-link wire. The auger is installed between the corners, and the entire structure is firmly fixed to some stable foundation, for example a tabletop.
Machine for weaving mesh netting - general assembled view:
1. Pipe with spiral slots;
2. Support;
3. Metal corners;
4. A knife welded to the auger for mandreling the wire;
5. The base on which the machine is fixed.
1. Wire feeding device;
2. A device for tensioning the wire during the mesh weaving process.
After the machine for making the chain-link mesh is completely ready and securely fixed on the support, you can start weaving the chain-link mesh with your own hands.
To do this, first the wire is put on the feeder and pulled through the tension device. Be sure to before this, rotating elements homemade machine To weave the mesh, the chain-links are lubricated with machine oil.
The process of weaving a chain-link mesh with your own hands at home is as follows:
- The end of the pulled wire is bent into a hook through the tension device.
- The wire is laid in spiral-shaped cutouts, and the hook itself is hooked to a knife welded on the auger.
- With a gentle movement, begin to rotate the device until the wire takes the required shape in the form of a wave.
Chain-link weaving is actually not too hard work, the most important thing is to understand the process and adapt to it. Then the speed of making chain-link mesh at home will be much faster, and the task can be completed in the shortest possible time.
Chainlink is extremely popular in construction business and in landscape design companies.
To produce it yourself, you need to have certain equipment. I would like to talk in more detail about the nuances of making the mesh.
General information
Chain-linking is a component of some structures that are quite widely used in the manufacture of enclosing elements, fences, dog enclosures; it is used to sift sand and build a frame for climbing plants.
The name of this material comes from the name of the famous inventor K. Rabitz. To obtain the mesh, simple machine equipment is used, with the help of which the spirals are screwed together, as well as high-tech machines equipped with automation, which produce a huge volume of products in the form of a Chain-link mesh in a short period of time.
The main material from which the mesh is made is low-carbon steel, galvanized and polymerized wire; in rare cases, stainless steel is used.
Based on the shape of the cells, the grid is distinguished: diamond-shaped and square. This is shown in the photo of the chain-link mesh.
On the construction market, mesh is sold in rolls 1.5 m high and almost 10.0 m long. Sometimes manufacturers can independently change the parameters of the rolls. Made at manual machine The mesh edges do not curl.
To transport Chainlink, you need to wrap the edges synthetic material or polyethylene.
The mesh is mainly used for outdoor needs, i.e. on outdoors, and is exposed to climatic conditions. To prevent the mesh from rusting after the first rain, it is subjected to treatment in the form of painting, galvanizing or polymerization.
Galvanizing is the most well-known method. For this purpose, galvanized steel with a high zinc content is used. Typically, zinc is applied to the surface of the wire by hot-dip galvanizing.
The service life of such wire will be 20-25 years. And the service life of galvanized wire using the electrolyte method will be about 3 years and no more.
To use Chainlink near various bodies of water (rivers, seas, lakes, etc.), it must be made of high quality polymerized steel to protect it from rust. A low quality finish will soon become dull and cracked.
Choosing a grid with polymer coating, choose expensive options and reliable manufacturers that guarantee quality and durability.
Do not forget to check the surface of the spirals for cracks; their absence will be confirmed high quality products. If cracks are noticeable, it means that the mesh will last less than a year as a result of rust from moisture penetrating through them. Its strength depends on the cell format and the thickness of the wire.
Manufacturing equipment
For home production mesh equipment can be made with your own hands, having initial plumbing knowledge and skills.
Rabitz, in comparison with others similar products, has some advantages. To make it, you don't need to have spot welding and an electric drive device.
To produce mesh in large volumes, you can purchase an assembled industrial machine, and for small volumes, equipment of your own production is sufficient.
Note!
When making a device on your own, you need: a piece of pipe, plates, metal pieces, bearing races, rollers, an angle grinder, metal corners, rope, chalk, file and sandpaper.
The frame of the chain-link mesh is formed by connecting wires flat shape. The main circumstance is the production of a zigzag snake using mechanisms that perform tension and winding.
Tension helps to avoid excessive twisting; winding makes the structure stronger. The spiral in the form of a screw is reluctantly screwed into the main blade. The wire tension needs to be constantly adjusted.
When bent, the wire changes shape and begins to rub against the machine; to avoid this, it must be lubricated with used oil.
The winding device has its own constant dimensions, which determine the type and diameter of the cell. When creating the shape of the turns, the line should be smoothly screwed into the main fabric of the chain-link mesh. Then, the excess part is removed.
Note!
The device for weaving Chainlink consists of a winding unit, which has an auger, a metal plate and a knife. These parts determine the appearance of the spiral and wear out quickly, so they must be of high quality and durable.
A rotating knife forms coils of a certain format. The screw sets a certain distance from turn to turn. The result is a grid with equal cells.
The winding plate looks like a strip of metal with a hole on the edge that secures it to the handle. Using a stiffer wire, the metal strip is twisted 60 degrees with a screw. The stiffer the wire, the higher the degree of twist angle.
An auger is a hardened steel pipe with a spiral cut across its entire surface. A mechanic can help you make such a part, or buy it on the market; you can’t make it yourself.
How to make a mesh
Place all the components so that it is easy to turn the handle and guide the wire evenly. Make sure the wire does not get tangled. To do this, place a bucket in the middle, upside down, and place the edge of the wire in metal pipe and weight it in another way. This will help avoid ringing.
Pull the end of the wire through the rollers and use a screw to change the gap between them. Then insert the wire into the winding mechanism and twist until certain size cells. The output line must be even.
Note!
Don't forget to adjust the tension. If the wire looks perfect, twist further until you get the desired volume of the product. The installed controller will help determine the number of turns and make the process easier.
By upgrading the device with an electric motor, you will no longer need to turn the handle manually. This machine is suitable for home use and a small volume of products.
Installing a chain-link mesh is much more profitable than building wooden fence, which needs to be painted and repaired from time to time, especially since you can also make a mesh fence with your own hands.
DIY photo of chain link mesh
Chain-link mesh is universal material for fencing garden plots and construction of enclosures for animals. Easy to maintain, does not require painting and is resistant to external weather conditions, the chain-link mesh will be an excellent help in the household. Let's look at three ways to make a grid at home.
The first option is the simplest and most accessible:- We make tools for giving precise bends to wire material.
- Let's take it wide board made of wood of the same length as the mesh should have.
- We hammer the nails in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between the nails is equal to the size of the future cells.
- Next, we proceed to the bending procedure, having previously cut rods of equal length from soft steel wire.
- It is advisable to wear cloth gloves for work.
- Carefully bend the wire around each nail.
- We connect the finished zigzags by weaving them into each other and rotating one of the rods around its axis, as if screwing it in.
- Wire cutters for cutting wire into equal parts.
- Material for weaving the mesh: take aluminum rods of the same length. You can take them from another metal, but they must be easily deformable.
- Wooden ruler or electrode bent in half.
Using these devices we will shape the metal rods. Whatever you choose as a basis, this item should have a clearly defined shape.
Take a ruler or bent electrode and tightly wrap the wire around it. The turns should be butt-to-tail.- We carefully repeat the curves of the selected object. The width of the ruler will be equal to the sides of the cells of our grid.
- After the first wire has already been wound, remove it and wind the next rod.
- An important point: winding is carried out strictly in one direction, otherwise the mesh will not work out.
- Then we stretch the wire spirals wound and removed from the ruler or electrode to the same width.
- Feeder;
- Tension mechanism;
- Devices for lubricating wire material;
- Tabletop with a winding mechanism that forms bends with the desired pitch;
- Receiving drum.
If you have a large amount of wire on hand, then it makes sense to think about purchasing a machine for weaving a chain-link mesh. For industrial purposes, such devices are not suitable due to economic infeasibility, since the bulk of the work is still done manually. And delivery of large-capacity rolls will eat up all your profits. And for weaving small-sized mesh, the first or second production method at home and at minimal cost is quite suitable.