Apple tree rootstocks are divided into vigorous, medium-sized (semi-dwarf) and low-growing (dwarf). Also important property apple trees - early fruiting (term of fruiting and the ability to quickly increase yields). A variety that, after planting as a two-year-old seedling, begins to bear fruit in 3-4 years is considered early-fruiting (for example, “Iyulskoe Chernenko”, “Papirovka”, “Spartan”, “Pepin saffron”, “Pink Excellent”, “Northern Sinap”, etc.). Particularly early-fruiting varieties of apple trees begin to bloom a year or two after planting in the garden (Brusnichnoye, Dessertnoye Isaeva, Narodnoye, Studencheskoye, etc.).
It is better not to plant varieties with large tall trees (their huge crown resembles a tent), which take up a lot of space and are difficult to care for, but opt for varieties with restrained tree growth but greater early fruiting. Otherwise, a situation may arise that the tree keeps growing and growing “above the roof - to the sky,” but there is still no fruit on it.
Vigorous apple trees should not lack space and light, otherwise this will provoke the trees to actively grow in height. The same result is caused by crown formation errors, when gardeners literally “cut and expose” the lower parts of the trunk and skeletal branches.
To speed up the fruiting of vigorous apple trees, you need to limit the growth of trees in height (no higher than 3.5-4 meters). To do this, from the second year of a tree’s life in the garden, its crown is formed: 3-4 tiers of skeletal branches are laid, and in the 4-5th year, the shoot of the extension of the central conductor must be cut off and transferred to a side branch, which will stop the tree’s growth in height. Throughout the life of the tree, branches are regularly pruned if necessary (broken and intertwined branches, branches that thicken and grow inside the crown), the soil is watered and loosened, and the trees are fed.
The switching of trees from growth to fruiting is helped by tilting the branches to a horizontal or drooping position (previously, worn-out bast shoes filled with earth, old pots, etc. were tied to the branches). Bent branches change metabolism, stopping growth and laying flower buds. Special techniques are also practiced (bark ringing, fruit girdle lining).
Ziborova E.Yu.
All about trees on the website website
Vitaly (Magnitogorsk) shares his experience:
- I limit the growth of trees with a very simple but effective technique.
To do this, you just need to plant/replant a tree 1-3 days before the NEW MOON.
The tree turns out to be much lower than the “standard” one. But the lower branches are higher than 40 cm from
land must be preserved.
This technique is based on the use of astronomical lunar rhythms, has been tested and
rechecked. I have three such trees (fruit-bearing): two pears (Severyanka and Nezhenka) and an apple tree (Apport Almaatinsky).
The apple tree blossomed, but there will be no apples again, gardeners lament - and they buy new apple tree seedlings, and when planting and caring for apple trees, they make the same mistakes as before. Why didn't the apple tree bloom in the spring? And if it bloomed, why did all the ovaries fall off? The book "The Orchard Bible" contains answers to these and other questions about apple tree fruiting, as well as tips on summer pruning of apple trees for good harvest on next year.
For what reasons can an apple or pear tree refuse to bear fruit, although by age and size it should have been covered with them long ago? There may be several reasons for refusal to bear fruit - as a rule, they consist of errors in planting and caring for the apple tree.
When nitrogen fertilizer predominates in the soil, trees like to “extend their childhood” for several years - they grow and grow without laying fruit buds. Apple and pear trees have this property: very large shoots that grow for a long time in the summer do not form flower buds, because they intend to continue rapid growth again next year. In fruit growing this is called fattening the tree.
Fat loss can cause many years of delay in fruiting. Such trees are recognizable by their many long growths, but there are still few short lateral fruit branches on them.
It is necessary to clarify that fat loss is not caused by a general excess of fertilizers, as is sometimes mistakenly believed, but by a strong excess of nitrogen, for example, when the garden is fertilized only with urea or fresh manure. On the contrary, compost and rotted manure usually do not cause fat loss.
Everyone needs nitrogen fruit plants- you just need to add phosphorus and potassium to it. The easiest way is to scatter ash under the trees. And to stop fattening, you should not completely stop fertilizing, but add phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.
This is very common reason refusal of trees of all crops to bear fruit. If in the south the trees on the north side of the house bear fruit, then in the middle zone this factor is critical, here the sun is “not right”. And if from behind a barn a tree can still stick its crown towards the sun, then behind a 2-story building it has no chance.
Especially if several fruit trees are planted there in a row, so that they additionally shade each other. The trees turn out elongated and “transparent”, i.e. sparse crowns.
When looking for the reason why a tree does not bear fruit, first of all they look at whether it blooms in the spring or not. If it hardly blooms, then the problem is most likely in the shade. That is, the tree only has enough strength to grow; it does not even lay flower buds the day before in the summer, since the shade does not allow it.
It is difficult to correct the situation in this case. You can try tilting the crown of a valuable variety towards sunny space, if available. At the same time, still eliminate other shading trees growing there behind the house for its sake, so that at least the morning eastern sun illuminates its crown.
Extermination of all apple tree flowers by pests
This happens with some “tasty” varieties. There are varieties of apple trees or other fruits that for some reason especially attract the flower beetle and other pests, so that they destroy 100% of the flowers. Such trees bear fruit very rarely, once every few years, when, according to natural laws, the number of pests is reduced to a minimum.
This reason is quite easy to identify and solve. Examine the flowers carefully during flowering: are they entangled in cobwebs or are their petals massively damaged?
Environmentally friendly protective measures are known for each harmful pest, including in this case This is spraying with herbal infusions and dusting flowers with ash. There are many other means.
To control, carefully spray a couple of branches with unopened buds from a spray can with regular dichlorvos to protect against cockroaches from a long distance. This will show you the effectiveness of the means used: if the fruits are only on a branch treated with chemicals, then your means will not work.
Deep planting of apple trees
If in the south of our country there are methods of deepening seedlings when planting, then in our country, with our excessive moisture, this is simply unacceptable. I have seen several times how visitors from Central Asia authoritatively convinced our summer residents to plant bushes and trees deep. Masters have been found! Ostrich teaches penguins to survive in ice...
Often, a summer resident, even without meaning to, plants in such a way that his seedlings, after watering, end up being pulled into a loose planting hole.
In conditions Middle zone All trees must be planted only at a certain elevation, at least 10–20 cm in height, so that the root collar is above the general soil level. The vagaries of nature will not keep you waiting: once every 10–15 years, or even more often, the plants become very wet due to prolonged autumn precipitation, and your trees will be safe.
If all of the above reasons are not relevant in your case, you can try to “persuad” the tree to produce a harvest next year.
For the gardens of the Middle Zone, there is a stimulating technique for pruning apple trees: we shorten all the growths left on the tree after breaking out large green shoots in an unripe state in the summer (late July - early August) by about 2/3, i.e. more than half.
In the southern regions, such a technique would contribute to thickening of the crowns and in no way fruiting, since it would cause branching of the abandoned stumps and the growth of new, equally long shoots. In the middle zone, on most “stumps” the effect will be achieved: they will contain more active fruit buds that produce flowers.
Summer pruning of annual growths does not harm the tree in winter, since the shoot has enough time to heal the wound. The main thing is not to prune them in the fall.
A version of such pruning, even more detailed, was developed by M. Shalaevsky. He tested it for many years different varieties apple trees, including old ones, and everywhere received larger harvests. He shortened all growths strictly to 2–4 buds: all thin and short (weak) growths were cut off above the 4th bud, and thick (strong) ones above the 2nd.
But there are exceptions to every rule. So it is for this type of pruning: in some varieties of apple trees the fruits tend to set precisely on the upper part of the shoots, so it is not recommended to prune their growths so en masse.
The solution is to select the key for each tree in each individual case and empirically search for what it responds best to. For example, on one crown you can try several pruning techniques on different skeletal branches at once in one season.
Comment on the article "Why does the apple tree not bear fruit? 4 reasons - and pruning the apple tree in the summer"
Why doesn't the apple tree bear fruit? 4 reasons - and pruning an apple tree in summer. This year the apple trees are not blooming, I have 10 of them in total, there have been harvests for 10 years in a row, last year they were just crazy. This year there is not a single flower on any of them.
reduce the height of the apple tree. there is a mature apple tree, old good variety with such a minus - a huge height. apple trees And how do you reduce the growth of apple trees? This is very important to me... I understand that cutting down a trunk and leaving no branches is dangerous, since it weakens the tree and it...
And when do apple trees begin to bear fruit not in pieces, but in kilograms? I thought that I had a defective seedling, but I read below and decided it was better to wait to cut it down) And how many apple trees do you have on the site (we have a lot of space, it’s a question of a reasonable number of trees.
Why doesn't the apple tree bear fruit? 4 reasons - and pruning an apple tree in summer. And if it bloomed, why did all the ovaries fall off? And why then, against the background of this, that year on the huge trunk of the apple tree suddenly all the leaves dried up and I had to cut it down.
How to “raise” an apple tree? One apple tree was planted unsuccessfully - due to a poorly prepared planting hole, the ground around it settled and the apple tree ended up in the I bought apple trees: Melba, Belyi Nalivka and Antonovka. The first two are with grafting, and Antonovka both trees are without, is that how it should be?
My experience has shown that two-year-olds are best. One-year-olds are still small, recently planted, and take a long time to grow; for three-year-olds, the containers are often too small, so they slow down their growth and then take longer to adapt. And our two-year-olds just started bearing fruit the next year.
Tell us what you have and how it tastes, we give preference to sweet apples. Suggest your varieties. How deep should we dig the holes? Both we and they have apple trees. Their branches were thrown towards us; during the season there were about 20 fallen ones from our side. How did you notice that we were trying their apples, and I...
The apple tree never blossomed; it stood naked all summer. This year it's the same story. Well, I think it’s all gone, we need to dig it up! Why doesn't the apple tree bear fruit? 4 reasons - and pruning an apple tree in summer. The apple tree doesn't want to bloom!
The apple tree does not bear fruit. We bought a 3-year-old apple tree 4 years ago. I don’t remember the variety anymore. Planted, everything took root perfectly. and every year it blooms (well, just flowers. Look at other discussions: Why doesn’t the apple tree bear fruit? 4 reasons - and pruning the apple tree in the summer.
Why doesn't the apple tree bear fruit? 4 reasons - and pruning an apple tree in summer. Section: Our garden (is it possible to plant apple trees next to birch trees). I looked on the website of the Timiryazev Academy, where you can buy a 3-year old apple tree for 800 rubles.
How to plant apple trees. ...I find it difficult to choose a section. Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchasing, landscaping, planting Girls, tell me how to plant a 3-year-old apple tree. I am a complete layman in this matter. What to put in the hole, what to spill and at what distance from...
4 reasons - and pruning an apple tree in summer. Is it possible to prune trees now, or is it too late, since How to prune correctly and in what cases can it be avoided? Summer apple trees begin to bear fruit earlier, autumn and winter ones later. Damn, I've been in prison for 4 years and nothing...
Why doesn't the apple tree bear fruit? 4 reasons - and pruning an apple tree in summer. Grafting cuttings onto a wild apple tree (spring 2010). 4 reasons - and pruning an apple tree in the summer." Girls, help me recognize the apple tree disease, please. We bought the plot that summer and all the apple trees are infected, no...
How to “raise” an apple tree? One apple tree was planted unsuccessfully - due to a poorly prepared planting hole, the ground around it settled and the apple tree How to plant an apple tree looked on the Internet, to be honest, like everything else) Mom looked at some things in her ancient literature, everything...
4 reasons - and pruning an apple tree in summer. Pruning an apple tree in summer. The apple tree blossomed, but there will be no apples again, gardeners lament - and they buy new apple tree seedlings, and when planting and caring for apple trees, they make the same mistakes as before.
Gives rejuvenation to the apple tree, plus fertilizers, and they will delight you for another 30 years. Prune in early March, pinch in the summer and everything will be fine. Don’t plant dwarfs - these are short-lived apple trees - problems from Why doesn’t an apple tree bear fruit? 4 reasons - and pruning an apple tree in summer.
To speed up the process, it is enough to root a cutting from the “seed” pavement. And about the differences - this is the first time I’ve heard of them, WHY? and where in the “historical homeland” of passionflower are there differences? Fruiting depends on conditions. It’s quite possible - my karulea bore fruit.
Why doesn't the apple tree bloom?, why doesn't it bloom? What to do if the apple tree does not bloom in the spring: the degree of damage to the apple trees.
What a shame when in the spring an apple tree stands with buds that don’t open or when a pair of leaves dries up....
The apple trees did not bloom: what is the reason
Most fruit trees low temperature is harmful winter period(up to 35 - 40 degrees below zero), persisting throughout long period, sudden changes in temperature when a thaw gives way to an unexpected cold snap. In this case, the bark and wood of the apple tree trunk may be damaged, and the flower buds are especially affected. The possibility of death of annual shoots depends on the ripening of their wood.
Growths with developed apical buds are less damaged. Shoots may not ripen well due to high humidity and excess nitrogen in the soil.
In addition, during a drought, which is possible in May, small apple trees may stop growing too early. If it starts to rain in July and August, the shoots may begin to grow again; they do not have time to ripen before frost and may die in winter. Damaged annual shoots are pruned in the spring, cutting down to healthy wood.
The apple tree has not blossomed: how to determine the extent of the problem
The level of damage to the wood of mature trees is determined by its color - slight freezing - light yellow, significant damage - dark brown. If the wood is severely damaged, the branches and trunk become brittle and you can notice a soot-like coating on the bark. Resistance of affected trees to low temperatures reduced, and with unfavorable conditions Sick apple trees may die.
Bark injuries also have a negative impact on the development of the tree. By the end of the season, ripening occurs from the periphery of the crown and continues to the trunk. For this reason, in the areas where branches join and in the trunk area, the resistance of fabrics to low temperatures is always worse. In these places, the bark freezes first. At the beginning of spring, the bark can be damaged by the bright rays of the sun, causing burns that arise from uneven heating of the bark and sudden changes in daily temperatures.
Injured bark of reddish or Brown, after a while it will begin to die off. After a summer or autumn drought, trees are more damaged by burns next spring. To reduce the risk of their appearance on the bark, trees are whitewashed autumn period. Freshly slaked lime is suitable for this (in the proportion of 2 kg of lime per bucket of water), with the addition of 1 kg of mullein or clay to the solution.
In mature trees, after severe frost damage, flowers do not appear from the buds in the spring. If the plant is not badly damaged, flowers may appear, sometimes even ovaries grow, but the bulk of them will quickly fall off. To protect trees from winter damage, you need to take good care of them - protect the bases of skeletal branches and trunks with the help of snow, slate forms are completely covered with snow, fight diseases and pests, trim the crown in time, fertilize the plants and irrigate.
The apple tree did not bloom in spring: what can be done
IN winter time mostly damaged, unkempt stones and standard trees. Low-cut dwarf trees, the crown of which can be hidden under the snow, do not suffer from frost even in cold winters. Pruning of damaged adult trees is carried out in the first ten days of summer, after their regrowth area has formed. Injured branches are pruned near the place where new shoots form.
Trees on which leaves grow only at the ends of the branches, and the buds located below have died, need to be well fed so that new shoots can form from the dormant buds. For faster recovery of damaged trees, they must be pruned in the spring in areas where new shoots are vigorously growing.If the tree crown is significantly damaged and new shoots appear only near the trunk, the tree can only be restored from cultivated shoots growing above the grafting site. The injured crown is cut off to the stump, and a new one is created from the emerging shoots using pruning. Each of the shoots must be oriented vertically, forming a conductor from it; new growths accelerate the healing of the large wound that appeared when pruning the shrunken crown.
If the tree is completely dead and shoots grow directly from the rootstock, then it is necessary to graft suitable variety apple trees, and a new tree will grow on the old roots. The most developed shoot is selected, the rest are cut out or simply shortened to allow the remaining shoot to develop well and provide nutrition to the roots. Apple tree varieties released in a given area develop faster and, five years after grafting, are capable of producing a small harvest of apples. In case of significant damage to trees requiring pruning ½ and larger share crowns, you don’t have to try to restore them, but plant another apple tree. If main reason If the plant dies - the place is unsuitable for planting (a low area where cold air collects), then there is no point in restoring it or planting a new tree.
Protecting apple trees from frost
A strong drop in temperature during apple tree flowering can not only significantly reduce the yield, but can also completely destroy it. Temperatures dropping to 2 degrees below zero are disastrous for blossoming inflorescences. If you have cold region, it's better to use .
Severely frostbitten flowers and ovaries quickly fall off, and from not severely damaged ones, gnarled fruits grow. If the decrease in temperature is short-lived, with a drop in temperature to 1.0-1.5 degrees below zero, then standard trees may not be affected. They only allow natural removal of excess flowers, which will not reduce the overall yield. The most dangerous thing for an apple tree is recurrent cold, during which the temperature drops significantly, and this is accompanied by strong gusts of wind, and all the flowers can die.
To protect against frost, you can use smoke cones or smoke using a fire in calm weather. In strong winds, the effectiveness of using smoke is greatly reduced.
The apple orchard promises to reward its owner with fragrant and delicious fruits. However, the apple tree does not always bear fruit on time, and in some cases the trees may not produce a harvest at all. Let's find out why the apple tree does not bear fruit, and what to do to make the apple tree bear fruit.
To understand why an apple tree does not bear fruit, you first need to understand the characteristics of the variety. Varieties can be early-bearing (bear fruit for 3–4 years), but more often the tree begins to bear fruit in 5–6 years of life. In the second case, you will have to wait longer for apples, but such trees have a longer life expectancy.
If you understand that the time has come for your apple tree to produce a sweet harvest, but this does not happen, there are several more reasons why the tree does not bear fruit:
- age of the tree;
- landing errors;
- improper formation of the tree crown;
- diseases and pests.
Among the reasons there are also less common ones:
- wrong choice of variety from a climate point of view. This error means that a variety was selected that is unsuitable for weather conditions, common in this region, as a result of which the plant is forced to spend all its energy adapting to the local climate;
- No comprehensive care behind a tree. This includes everything related to plant agricultural technology - from choosing a planting site to the frequency of watering and pollination;
- lack of cross-pollination. As a result of pollination, fruit formation begins on the branches, and if pollination does not occur, there is no need to talk about obtaining a harvest.
Before deciding what to do if the apple tree does not bear fruit, consider the four main factors for the lack of harvest.
Apple tree age
As mentioned above, all varieties of fruit-bearing trees have their own age at which they begin to bear fruit. Depending on the variety, the tree may not have reached fruiting age or may be in a dormant stage. The latter means that some varieties do not produce a harvest every year, for example, Grushovka or Antonovka. A tree that is too old will also not bear fruit. Some garden owners rejuvenate trees by grafting new shoots, but in older apple trees the system of supplying branches with nutrients is weakened, and the tree will spend all its energy on maintaining stable life without forming a new crop.
Errors during the landing phase
At the planting stage, you can make many mistakes that ultimately prevent the appearance of apples. Firstly, the planting site must be chosen correctly, meeting all the tree’s requirements for warmth and light. Sunburn or strong shading will not allow the tree to form buds evenly. Secondly, the distance between trees must be maintained. Some varieties of apple trees are capable of forming a crown up to 10 meters in diameter, so the distance between the holes should be at least five meters.
The holes themselves should be one meter by one meter. Too deeply buried seedlings will begin to bear fruit much later. The landing site should not be near the occurrence groundwater because they wash everything away useful material from the soil. In addition, constantly wet roots will begin to rot. When choosing a landing site, also focus on chemical composition soil, which should be suitable for a given variety. But the basic rule for all varieties is soil rich in iron, for the content of which apple fruits are so valued.
Incorrect tree formation
Second important factor is the incorrect formation of the tree crown. The main rule for decorating an apple tree is to create a horizontal crown. This means that fruits are not formed on vertical branches, which is why pruning creates a rounded, sloping crown. In order to achieve the desired shape tree, the upper branches are pinched. This is done in the fourth year of the apple tree’s life. In addition, small branches are pruned, which thicken the crown and grow inward.
However, it should be remembered that not all small branches are dangerous for yield - some of them are just young fruit branches, for example, ringlets, fruit twigs and spears with a bud. These branches should not be removed. It is also important to make the correct cut and treat the cut areas with garden varnish. The cut location should not be perpendicular to the branch, but at an angle of approximately 45 degrees.
Apple tree diseases
Naturally, in the presence of diseases and pests, the trees will not begin to bear fruit, and those that have already begun may shed the unripe harvest ahead of time. Before flowering, did you notice that the buds are too dry and do not tend to bloom at all? It is possible that an infection has occurred with weevil larvae that eat the petals of unripe buds.
The appearance of black spots on the leaves and large cracks resembling wounds on the tree bark may indicate that the apple tree is infected with black cancer. Rusty, rotting leaves are likely to be infected with scab, while leaves covered in white coating and cobwebs may be attacked spider mite, powdery mildew or aphids. I would also like to remind you about mice, which can also damage wood.
Solution and prevention
Based on all the above factors, it is not difficult to decide what to do if the apple tree does not bear fruit. Once the cause of the problem is found, all that remains is to fix it. If the problem is the incorrect formation of the crown, then pruning should be postponed for a couple of years, and only after 2 years should you start pinching the shoots again. If the branches are still strongly pulled upward, they can be tilted to a horizontal position using ropes.
Pests and diseases detected in time can be eliminated in different ways.
For them would be better suited the most attentive care with required quantity fertilizers and watering - such measures compensate for the unfortunate position of the tree. If the trees are planted too close to each other, and the variety allows, a columnar apple tree can be formed. You can get rid of groundwater by diverting it from the site.
Video “How to make an apple tree bear fruit?”
From this video you will learn how to make an apple tree bear fruit.
Sometimes it is difficult to say why an apple tree does not bloom several years after planting. Perhaps the matter is due to incorrect identification of the variety or other factors affecting the setting of peduncles. You can always improve your care to achieve the long-awaited flowering. To begin with, it’s worth learning a little more about the tree itself.
Why doesn't the tree bloom?
Winter varieties of apple trees themselves can begin to bear fruit only in the 7-8th year of planting a two-year-old seedling. Of course, this is completely unusual for summer varieties.
The most popular “mistakes” of novice gardeners:
1. Large penetration into the soil. The root collar of the apple tree should not be buried into the soil at all; they try to leave it just above the surface of the soil. Otherwise, the tree may refuse to bloom and bear fruit for a very long time. If upon closer examination it becomes clear that the trunk is too deep when planting, you will have to start raising the tree or digging a hole around it.
2. Vertical arrangement of all branches. The apple tree usually bears fruit on horizontal branches, which is why it is so important to help correct formation crowns One way is to hang a small weight on the edge of a branch, gradually increasing its weight. It is important not to rush, otherwise the branch may break.
3. Iron deficiency. Apples are famous for their rich iron content, so its lack in the soil already affects the stage of flower formation. Previously, in villages, two rusty nails were driven into a tree trunk or several rusty nails were buried under an apple tree. metal objects, increasing iron levels in this simple way. Modern gardeners prefer to spray trees with a solution of iron sulfate (0.1%).
4. Diseases and insects. A careful examination of the branches and leaves will reveal the harmful source due to which the flowers do not bloom. Each case has its own method of controlling various pests.
How to care?
Fruit trees can grow with virtually no unnecessary human intervention if they are given enough attention at the very beginning of their development. How to care for an apple tree:
1) Landing. Apple tree seedlings are planted on permanent place in mid-spring, although many people purchase them from nurseries in the fall, when they can boast a large selection of varieties. In winter, the seedlings are stored in a trench, and as soon as the snow melts, they completely thaw upper layer soil - planted in planting holes.
The roots are carefully spread out on a mound inside the hole, and soil is poured on top. The boundary between the roots and the crown (root collar) must be strictly at ground level, otherwise the tree will develop slowly. The soil is compacted with a foot, and then the hole is watered at the rate of 2-3 buckets per 1 tree.
2) Watering. Apple trees 2-3 years old need frequent watering, but with a small dose. The irrigation rate is determined taking into account soil moisture to the depth of the root system. Typically, young trees with a hole about a meter in diameter calmly absorb 3-4 buckets of water. The next watering is carried out after 15-20 days. Fruit-bearing apple trees with a crown with a diameter of 3 m need more watering - about 35-42 buckets of water.
One is enough for them good watering per month. How older tree, the more effective is abundant infrequent watering compared to frequent small doses. You can't always see how an apple tree dries up. But it’s better not to focus on appearance tree, and in the event of a long absence of rain, when deciding to water the hole under the apple tree.
3) Tillage. Weeds can damage not only young but also mature fruit trees. Weeds pull a lot nutrients and moisture from the soil, inhibiting growth cultivated plants. Systematic control of them is very important for successful flowering and fruiting of the apple tree.
It is advisable to remove weeds with their roots so that they are less annoying when they appear. Application of herbicides in orchards extremely undesirable, so it is better to ignore all advice on their use. It is also very important to deeply loosen the soil before each watering.
4) Fertilizer. If the soil is poor in humus, then humus, superphosphates and potassium fertilizers are placed in the planting hole. Then every 2-3 years before the buds open in the spring or autumn at the end of the growth processes, add mineral fertilizers along with humus. They are not only embedded in the soil to a depth of 10-12 cm in the area of tree trunk circles, but also scattered in the aisles where there are no roots.
5) Regular inspection. Young trees like to be attacked by weevils and caterpillars that eat green leaves. A timely response to their appearance will save the apple tree from death.
Diseases and pests
Apple tree diseases and pests:
Green apple aphid- an insect with incomplete metamorphosis, capable of significantly damaging and deforming the shape of leaves. The locations of damage are well identified by soot deposits.
Powdery mildew is a dirty white powdery coating that covers the buds, leaves, inflorescences and shoots. Over time, the plaque turns brown, forming small black dots.
Scab is spots with a greenish-brown coating on leaves or fruits. The disease develops early in the spring, immediately after the buds swell. Leads to drying and further falling off of leaves. When apple trees bloom, the scab moves to the formed flowers and waits for the fruit to appear. Affected fruits may grow one-sided and cracks appear.
Fruit rot is large grayish-brown pads consisting of rot spores. They are located in concentric circles on the surface of the fruit. Capable of easy separation with gusts of wind, using it to infect other fruit-bearing trees.
Rust is a fungal disease that attacks leaves. It looks like swelling-pads of a red-brown or orange hue, reminiscent of rust on metal.
Sooty fungus is a black coating that envelops the surface of leaves, shoots, ringlets and fruits.
Apple stem- a small butterfly with a wingspan of 14-20 mm. Capable of eating most of the fruit.
Basic methods of healing
Treatment of apple trees:
Spraying with infusions and pesticides. For each disease there is a list of drugs that can be used with minimal harm for the apple tree itself. For example, aphids are removed with a solution of laundry soap (rub 50 g onto a bucket of water). You can dip the ends of the shoot into the liquid or generously spray it.
Wood inspection and cleaning. Various caterpillars, oviposition, sources of infection can be seen already in the initial stage of development. If you regularly inspect the tree for “unwanted guests,” then the measures taken will be more effective than after they actively reproduce.
Preventive measures. Autumn digging of row spacing and tree trunk circles allows you to destroy the wintering stages of scab, eliminating its appearance in the spring. Burning fallen leaves will kill the main larvae. Creating trapping belts will allow you to catch the bulk of the pests. The crown of trees should be whitened to prevent caterpillars and bugs from crawling from the ground.
Natural Control Measures. Birds and ladybugs can significantly reduce the numbers of caterpillars, mites, psyllids, codling moths and codling moths.
Preparations for spraying
What to spray apple trees with? To combat the main pests, spray Bordeaux mixture (3%) on dormant buds. In parallel with this, you can make various infusions or decoctions from wormwood, chamomile, yarrow, tomato tops and potatoes. Plant control measures are not as effective as chemical treatment, but they are safer for humans and ripening fruits.
In modern gardening, biological products are becoming increasingly common, after using which you can harvest within 1-5 days. Compared to chemical drugs, which have a 30-40 day limit, they are a worthy alternative"grandmother's decoctions."
No matter how scary the numerous advice given to gardeners may be, growing apple trees is actually not such a difficult task. It is better to solve problems as they arise, then the long path to the harvest will seem easy and exciting.
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