What to lay on the floor on the loggia. How to lay a wooden floor on a balcony: tips and tricks

The balcony is a storage place for old, unnecessary things. However, it can be turned into an elegant extension of the apartment. Any transformation begins with laying strong foundation, which, in the case of a balcony, is considered to be the floor. Lay it on it wood covering or cover it with tiles - the choice is up to the owner of the house.

Any new floor option requires initial training concrete slab. To do this, you need to do a thorough cleaning. It is more convenient to use a vacuum cleaner instead of a dustpan and broom. If there are cracks in the concrete, they should be repaired using putty, and the gaps between the slabs should be covered with polyurethane foam.

Preparing the base

The main thing to start with is to level the surface.

Let's use a simple and in an accessible way, self-leveling floor.

Below are instructions on how to do this correctly.

Carefully prime the surface. After the material has dried, clean the floor with a vacuum cleaner.
Strictly following the instructions, prepare the mixture in a bucket. For kneading, a drill with a whisk attachment is usually used.
We begin to pour the composition, gradually moving from the far corner towards the exit. In the process, spread the liquid with a metal spatula with a smooth edge.
Use a long-handled spatula to spread the mixture
When the surface is completely covered with the mixture, you will need a needle roller. They need to walk over the surface several times. This procedure will remove accumulated air bubbles.
After 4 hours you can walk on the floor. Complete drying will take several days.

Attention! Ready mixture must be used within 30 minutes after mixing.

Insulation of the base without changing the height of the ceiling

If you want to insulate the floor on the balcony without any problems and cover it with laminate, then you should use electricity. A more precisely installation warm floor. Of the materials presented in stores, the most suitable is infrared heater. To install it, you do not need to make a screed, which will raise the floor by 10-20 cm. Let's get to work.

We start by laying penofol or other heat-insulating material, over the entire area of the self-leveling floor.
We distribute the heating elements in the same way, on top of the insulation.
We use bitumen insulation to protect the copper contacts from the edge adjacent to the parapet from moisture.
Let's sum it up electric wires from the opposite side. Solder them to the contacts.
We also cover all remaining electrically conductive contacts with an insulator.
We supply power to the thermostat. We connect the temperature sensor and place it under the heating elements, fix the wire with tape.
We check all connections and carry out a test run of the system.
The final step is laying the laminate. detailed instructions process is given below.

Attention! Incorrect installation and poor moisture protection can lead to short circuit. This will lead to exit heating elements out of service. You will have to open the laminate and replace or remove the heated floor.

Infrared heated floor

Insulated raised base

Glazing will increase the temperature on the balcony, but only by 10-12 degrees. An additional measure is to increase the thickness of the floor. In addition, new cladding methods will be added.

We mark the position of the three longitudinal logs. The side bars should lag behind the walls by 5 cm, and the central one by 40-50 cm. Draw the lines on which the logs will be located.
We calculate the joint of the plywood and draw a line. There will be a cross beam here.
Mark the mounting locations for the brackets. They should be at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. On the line cross beam, the brackets will be located one at a time between the joists.
We fix the brackets to the walls using dowels.
We cut off two pieces of insulation, the length of the entire balcony and a width of 20 cm. We lay them along the edges, cutting holes for the brackets.
We lay the two outer longitudinal logs. If the timber is not long enough, their joint should be in the middle of the holder.
We fasten the timber with a self-tapping screw, at a height of 10-15 cm from the floor. We level it with a level and fix it from the opposite edge.
It is impossible to tighten the screw from the wall side, the distance is too small. The remaining fastenings of the beam to the holder are made with a bolt and nut. To do this, you need to drill through the joist and screw two bolts into each bracket.
We align the second lag relative to the first and secure it.
We attach the holders for the intermediate joist. We lay a strip of insulation.
We align the beams relative to those already installed. All fixing is done using self-tapping screws.
We install the transverse joist. We install the brackets according to the prepared markings. We attach the block itself to the longitudinal joists on metal corners. We fix the joist in the holder with self-tapping screws. On the opposite side, relative to the central joist, we repeat the process
In the same way we make 4 more lags.
We fill the empty space with insulation up to the top edge of the bars.
We lay the plywood, leaving 5 mm from each wall for its expansion.
Two sheets of material, at the junction, should occupy half of the transverse joist. This will allow them to hold tightly and eliminate the risk of breaking the edges.
We fasten the plywood sheets with self-tapping screws to the joists at a distance of 15 cm from each other.
We recess all fastener heads into the material.

Below is a table with the materials you will need for all the basics. It will also indicate the quantity and approximate cost of raw materials.

Material	Quantity	Unit price
Cold base
	2 bags of 25 kg	About 800 rub.
Insulated base without raising the floor
Warm infrared floor	3-4 sq. meters	800 rub. per sq. meter
Penofol	3-4 sq. meters	64 rubles per sq. meter
Insulated raised base
Beam for logs (length 3 m, size 45 by 70 mm)	5 pieces.	79 rub. per meter
Bracket (holder) made of galvanized steel, height 166 mm	30 pcs.	60 rub.
FSF plywood 6 mm thick	2 pcs.	790 rub.
Metal corner	12 pcs.	3 r.
Dowels 6 by 60 mm	60 pcs.	50 kopecks
Self-tapping screws 4 by 30 mm	More than 100 pcs.	30 kopecks
Bolt with nut 6 by 60 mm	12 pcs.	2.5 rub.

Cold floor covering

The floor of an open balcony is constantly exposed to harmful influences. In summer the sun bakes it, it is flooded with rain, and in winter it is covered with snow. When choosing a coating, you should consider these factors.

Facing tiles. Installation instructions

This coating will cope with any threats, and it is also easy to clean. You can limit yourself to one type of tile, or lay out a pattern that will please the eye. The base has already been prepared, let's start finishing.

We start marking from the corner farthest from the door and adjacent to the parapet. This is where the first row of tiles will be laid.
Using a spatula with a serrated edge, apply tile adhesive. It needs to be distributed over an area of 3-4 tiles.
We lay the tile on the rough side and press it tightly. The adhesive composition should evenly fill all voids. If you miss this moment, over time the corners of the tiles will begin to break due to the load.
To ensure an even seam, plastic crosses are applied to the corners of the tiles. After the glue has hardened, they must be removed.
The next step is filling the joints with grout. Its color should be harmoniously combined with the rest of the surface.
After a day, the remaining grout and glue are removed. A thorough cleaning is carried out.
The baseboard is glued.

Attention! It is better to choose tiles with a rough surface. It will be less slippery, especially in winter.

Reference. The tiles can also be laid on a plywood base of a raised floor. However, tile adhesive should be replaced with mastic so as not to spoil the base.

facing tiles

The right way to install decking boards

For those who do not like tiles, there is another option - special boards. This composite material able to withstand moisture and temperature changes. The installation process is simple and takes little time.

First, you need to lay the logs along the width of the balcony, every 50 cm. The ends of the bars should be 10 mm behind the walls. This will compensate for the expansion that will occur over time.
Each lag is secured with three anchor bolts.
First of all, you should choose a material at least 3 mm thick with a special pile. Thanks to the hairs on the rough side, the floor will be softer and warmer. Also, the size of the piece should allow it to completely cover the entire area of the balcony floor.
Before laying, the roll should be unrolled and allowed to lie on the balcony. This will allow the material to level out and “get used” to operating conditions. In a couple of days you can start working.
All rows after the first are mounted so that each subsequent board is shifted by half the length of the previous one. The material must be cut with a jigsaw with a special file. It does not have inclined teeth and will not leave chips on the front surface of the laminate.
For installation last row a staple or nail puller is used. It is inserted into the slot and secures the board in the groove.

How to lay laminate flooring yourself

Attention! Linoleum, parquet, laminate flooring in non- glassed balcony threatens rapid deterioration of the coating.

Pros and cons of coatings

Naturally, there is no absolutely right choice. When choosing a material, you should pay attention to the amount of light entering the balcony. Consider options, future use of space, and level of your own skills. However, knowing the positive and negative traits material, you can get a result close to perfection.

pros	Minuses
Moisture-resistant laminate will not deteriorate if exposed to water. Exposure to sunlight, temperature changes and humidity will not affect the material.	Violation of the assembly technology will lead to creaking when walking, or swelling of the coating. The material has increased toxicity in case of fire. May break if heavy objects fall on it.
Has high resistance to aggressive external environments. You can create a unique design. Terrace board	Easy to assemble. Reliability and durability of the coating.	It will greatly increase the load on the slab, which can lead to its destruction.
Low cost. Easy to apply. You can quickly change the color if you wish. Makes cleaning easier.	The paint fades in the sun. The coating will begin to deteriorate after a year of use. Lack of insulation. Unsightly appearance.

Apartment on long years becomes a home. The more comfortable the home, the more pleasant it is to return there after work. On our own, with minimal investment Money, can be easily obtained extra room, flower garden or just a place to relax.

Video - Do-it-yourself wooden floor on the balcony

Choosing a floor covering is not as simple a process as it might seem at first glance.

The floor on the loggia must meet certain characteristics.

It must be warm and resistant to negative impacts(for example, changes in humidity and temperature), pleasant to the touch, dry and easy to use. The modern market offers many types floor coverings that meet similar requirements. You can lay the floor with your own hands, since any coating options, by and large, allow you to carry out the work yourself.

Preparatory work

Before choosing a floor covering, you need to carry out preparatory work, because prepare the rough base for flooring finishing coating. First we make a cement screed, with which you can level the rough base. Work on its installation is carried out in the following sequence:

First of all, it is completely cleaned working surface from dirt, dust, oil stains and other contaminants.
Next, a concrete-contact composition is applied to the surface, which will ensure high-strength adhesion of the cement mortar.
If the loggia is large, then it will be necessary to make temporary wooden formwork around the perimeter of the room.
Then using building level Beacons are installed that will allow you to properly level the surface.
Next, prepare the leveling solution in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
Cement mortar or self-leveling screed is applied to the rough surface. The solution will dry for quite a long time (several weeks), while a self-leveling screed will dry much faster, so many experts recommend using it.

The screed also allows you to raise the rough foundation, for which a high-quality cement mortar in fairly large quantities. For this type of screed to dry completely, you will need to wait about a month.

Self-leveling floors for loggias

It is quite difficult to talk about which is better to make the floor on the loggia.

The floor covering can be anything: linoleum, laminate, wooden floor, tile.

It is also possible to use ordinary plywood. IN last years Self-leveling floors, which are created on the basis of self-leveling compounds, have become widespread. This type of coating is not subject to negative weather and temperature influences, so even in an open loggia nothing will happen to it.

Polymer self-leveling coating for a loggia it has an important advantage - the composition is leveled without any additional intervention. But for self-leveling floors, you need to carefully prepare the rough base: a screed is made that will level the surface, after which a polymer leveling compound is applied to it. It is also possible that the cement screed will not be too smooth.

The principle of applying the polymer composition to the prepared surface is exactly the same as in the case of the device cement screed(the screed just takes longer to dry). It is worth noting that on a plywood base apply polymer composition it is forbidden. Raise the floor surface on the loggia using polymer coating will not work.

Ceramic tiles for loggia

Ceramic tile It will look good both on an open and closed loggia. This material is not exposed to atmospheric influences, so it is not afraid of moisture, snow and wind.

For loggias and balconies, experts and designers recommend choosing ceramic tiles that will have a rough surface.

The best option is tiles with an anti-slip surface. This will ensure high level safety when using the floor covering. Which tile option is best to choose for the loggia is up to the owners to decide.

Before installing the tiles, it is necessary to level the rough surface. The tiles cannot be laid on a base with defects and height differences. Suitable for leveling again cement composition or a self-leveling screed, which can not only level the surface, but also raise the base, which is often required when.

Ceramic tiles cannot be laid independently - it is not necessary to invite specialists for this, because installation work in conditions small area loggias can be carried out quite quickly. It is important to understand that ceramic tiles cannot be laid on a plywood base. It is better to make a high-quality screed for it.

Terrace board for loggia

Terrace board – relatively the new kind floor coverings with high performance and performance characteristics. The board is great for use on open loggias without glazing.

This material is not subject to negative influences and is quite durable.

Leveling the surface can be done using a screed, but laying the decking boards is done, in most cases, on wooden logs or bars that are attached to the rough base. Before installation, it is recommended to raise the floor surface in any way. The boards can be adjusted during the laying process, for which special fastenings are used.

In stores today you can find a large selection of decking board models. The material can have different shades and colors, have a unique structure and texture. Which better option Suitable for a loggia – it’s up to the homeowners to decide. Special fasteners are used that come with the material, so the coating can be done quickly and with your own hands.

Before laying the floor, careful leveling of the rough surface is not required. It is worth noting that when using a decking board, it will be possible to raise the floor surface well. It is not recommended to lay boards on plywood sheets.

Wooden floors for loggias

The floor on the loggia, if it is wooden, is the most common option finishing closed loggia. This coating can be done by hand. And you can even choose which one better way suitable for installation wooden planks. For use in loggia conditions, it is recommended to buy lumber with high moisture-resistant characteristics, even if the room is well insulated and protected from moisture penetration and condensation. Wooden floors should also be treated with antiseptics.

Wooden floor on the loggia.

The wooden floor is laid on logs. Ideally, you need to make a lag sheathing, which is presented in the form of a durable box placed around the perimeter of the loggia.

Between individual lags you need to maintain a distance of 0.4-0.5 m.

It is recommended to fasten the lags using wooden bosses. Between the lags, after installing the sheathing, it is strongly recommended to lay insulation with your own hands (which one is up to the owners to choose), and also raise it to the level of the finishing coating.

Floor joists with filler.

It is best to choose soft specialized materials that can be stuffed into the space between the joists (for example, mineral wool slabs). With the help of lag it is performed final alignment bases for laying boards. During the installation process, the boards are adjusted to each other - the formation of cracks and gaps should not be allowed, after which they are attached to the joists using long nails or self-tapping screws. You can do all this with your own hands. Wooden floors should not be laid on plywood sheets.

Linoleum and laminate for loggia

If leveling the rough base of the loggia is done using plywood, then laminate or linoleum can be used as a finishing coating. Leveling with plywood is the easiest option. Of course, plywood will not be able to raise the surface of the subfloor, but it is an excellent base if you plan to install laminate or linoleum.

Linoleum on the loggia.

Laminate is the same as a wooden floor, but with much better performance and performance characteristics.

On modern market laminate and linoleum are presented in a wide variety.

The most interesting thing is that most of these models imitate a wooden floor.

Laminate flooring can be laid independently because modern models laminated floors are equipped with special locking system, therefore, installation is carried out using “floating” methods, i.e. without attaching the coating to the rough base. Linoleum can also be laid on its own - everything must be done in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

Modern linoleum has very good performance indicators and can last in a loggia for decades.

Good afternoon, dear readers of the site. Today I will tell you how to make a balcony floor with your own hands using sandwich technology. I will accompany each step with a photo with detailed description, but if you still have questions, then I will be ready to answer them in the comments, so write, don’t be shy.

In cold countries such as Iceland, Norway, Denmark, Sweden, Canada and Finland, great attention is paid to warmth. It is not for nothing that the so-called Finnish houses and houses built according to Canadian technology sandwich type. But, if many people have heard about houses and walls made of sandwich panels, then much fewer people know about sandwich floors. But it is sandwich floors that are extremely popular in Canada and the countries of the Scandinavian Peninsula.

Sandwich floors on balconies are becoming popular due to their heat-saving properties, ease of installation and cost, which is much lower than any other flooring. That is why we decided to make and insulate the floor on our balcony using this technology.

In this article we will teach you how to make/insulate with your own hands. For convenience, the entire process will be shown step by step.

Required Tools

First, we need to prepare all the tools and purchase all the materials necessary for the work. To do this, we have prepared for you a list of everything you need.

Electric jigsaw.
Hammer.
Screwdriver.
Hammer.
Roulette.
Dowels.
Hammer drill.
Construction marker or graphite pencil.
Spare blades for jigsaws.
Spare drills for rotary hammer.
Spare drill bits for drills.
Screws different lengths on wood.
Acrylic or silicone sealant.
Caulk gun.
Portland-M500 cement or frost-resistant tile adhesive.
Foam or mineral wool two centimeters thick (the density can be any, but we recommend taking a thicker one).
Insulation or thermal insulation mat with a reflective element.
Wooden slats measuring 2x4 cm.

Group of necessary tools 1: jigsaw, drill, hammer, screwdriver

Tool group 2: drill, caulk gun, accessories, cement

Group necessary materials 3: polystyrene foam, plywood, insulation, timber

We begin to lay the floor on the balcony

After all materials and tools are prepared, we proceed directly to the installation and laying of the floor.

Any repair and construction always begins with taking measurements. So we, armed with a tape measure, measure the working area on which we will have to work. In our case, the working area is the balcony. Its length is 1 m and its width is 3 m.

ATTENTION! Companies that produce floor screeds in their operating instructions very often indicate a hardening time for the level of three to five hours. But very often it is far from reality. Based on experience, we recommend waiting at least 24 hours, that is, one day, after pouring the floor screed.

After the screed on the floor has hardened and become solid, we move on to creating the formwork. In our case, it will serve as a kind of barrier, since in polyurethane foam under the influence of various natural phenomena (rain water, direct hit sun rays, wind) over time, cracks and micro-cracks form through which air can blow in.

Installation of floor formwork bars

The formwork is assembled from wooden slats. To begin with, the plank is placed along the length of the balcony (let me remind you, ours is 3 meters) at a distance of 3-5 cm from the balcony frame. Next, using a tape measure, we can find out the size of the wooden slats that we will use to construct the width of the formwork.

A sample of a batten that is suitable for creating formwork on a balcony

Having received the size of the slats we need, we transfer all measurements to the “wooden” area. For this we use a construction marker or graphite pencil.

After the strip is cut, we put it in place for fastening. Now the impact drill comes into action. With its help, we drill through holes in the rail in increments of 30-40 cm.

After we made the holes in the plank, it should look something like this.

Now, by sliding wooden slats to the side, in the floor we should see the remaining traces from through holes which we made using impact drill.

Making holes in concrete using an impact drill or hammer drill

Now we insert the dowels into the holes that were made in the wooden slats. We put a wooden strip with dowels inserted into it in its place.

Now the hammer comes into action. With its help we hammer the dowels into the floor.

After the wooden joist is attached to the floor with plastic dowels, we use a hammer to drive the screws into them. Once all the screws are driven in and the plank is secured in place, it should look something like this.

After the width of the plank is secured, we move on to the plank, which is attached in length. We fasten it in the same way as the first plank.

The only difference is in the step of fastening the rail. If we fastened the width of the rail in increments of 30-40 centimeters, then in length we adhere to increments of 50-60 centimeters. We also attach the next plank in length, observing a step of 7-8 centimeters. The bar is attached to dowels. Next, with a distance of 6-7 cm, we attach the next lag using dowels.

Once the planks have been secured, you should end up with something like this.

The formwork on the balcony is installed

ATTENTION! When drilling holes for dowels in the floor, the drills often break. Based on this, we strongly recommend keeping three or four spare drills in stock.

Insulating the floor on the balcony using polystyrene foam

After the logs are laid in length, next stage— . To do this, we cut the foam into equal strips of 7-8 cm in length. It is best to cut polystyrene foam using a regular construction knife. After the foam is cut, we lay it between wooden joists as shown in the photo. When the foam strips are completely laid, the floor will look like this (photo below).

Our next step will be to mount the second layer. Using a tape measure, we measure the width of the log we need.

After we have measured the size of the slats we need, we transfer it to a wooden plane. Next, the jigsaw comes into play. With its help, we saw off the timber of the size we need. Now it's time for the screwdriver. We try on the strip and places for attaching screws. By the way, for fastening we use wood screws measuring 3.5 x 35 mm.

Now we attach the lag with self-tapping screws.

The log, secured with a screwdriver and self-tapping screws, looks like this.

The next lath, which we will fasten in length, is part of the formwork. It needs to be fixed slightly “overlapping”, that is, with a protrusion closer to the balcony frame. It is attached with self-tapping screws.

After we have secured the second layer of formwork, we move on to the stage of pouring the formwork. To do this, prepare a solution of frost-resistant tile adhesive or Portland-M500 cement. When the solution is ready, apply it with a spatula to the inside of the formwork. The solution is applied to the inside along the entire perimeter of the formwork.

The process of pouring formwork with cement

When the entire internal part of the formwork is completely filled, we proceed to the stage of mounting the slats in width.

We fasten the logs using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver. We screw in the screws using the “board to board” method (as shown in the photo). In the same way we install all the other logs, which we lay in width. In this case, it is important to maintain a 15 cm step between the slats.

When the next layer of slats is installed, we move on to filling all the remaining cracks. We fill the cracks with a solution of frost-resistant tile adhesive. After all the cracks have been processed and sealed, we leave the solution to harden. This usually takes one day. After 24 hours, the solution should completely harden and harden. In this case, the formwork should look like in the photograph.

We check the formwork for strength. To do this, just try it with your fingers, if everything is dry and hard, then everything is in order, you can safely move on to the next step.

Insulation of a concrete floor on a balcony with a second layer of polystyrene foam

The sequence of actions is as follows:

Cut the foam into pieces 15 cm wide.
We place the cut polystyrene foam in the space between the wooden slats.
We fill the cracks in the floor with small pieces of polystyrene foam to create a surface without gaps or cracks.

Prices for popular types of insulation

Insulation

Laying insulation

ATTENTION! We laid the insulation with the reflective surface facing up.

The edges of the insulation should extend onto the walls and onto the balcony frame by approximately 3-4 cm.
We tuck the excess and roll it back into the roll.
Using a construction knife, we cut off the unnecessary insulation.
We straighten and smooth the insulation, forming a smooth surface.

We put a log on top of the insulation and try it on in length. After the joist is laid out, we fasten it with screws. To do this we use a screwdriver.

We lay the lag, fixing it with self-tapping screws.
Between the lags, similarly to the steps that have already been done above, we lay a layer of foam plastic.
We lay chipboard on top of the foam layer, securing it with self-tapping screws to the formwork made of bars.

We cover the floor on the balcony with clapboard

In our example, the floor will not be sheathed, but with special slats, because This layer will not be the final one. But if you want to finish the floor at this step, it will also be a very warm structure, but we continue further.

So the technology for installing wooden slats:

We fasten the slats tightly to each other using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver;
In order for the floor to be stable and “not play”, it is recommended to screw in self-tapping screws at intervals of 5-7 cm from each other.

Also in the photo you can see that our balcony frame is reinforced with a connector, which, in turn, gives rigidity to the balcony frame. The photo also shows that the amplifier protrudes slightly. Let me remind you that we need all the slats to fit closely to the walls and balcony frame. To do this, we need to use a jigsaw to cut a notch in a wooden strip.

Take a pencil or marker and transfer the size of the protrusion of the frame amplifier onto the wooden batten.
Using a jigsaw, cut out a recess of the size we need.
After we "worked" electric jigsaw, we get the following result.
Now we try on the bar. As you can see, it fit perfectly into its place.

ATTENTION! When laying the floor, do not forget to use a level. Everything should be smooth.

We proceed to laying the second reinforcing layer. To do this, using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws, we fasten the planks end to end, one to the other.

After the second reinforcing layer is laid, you should see something like this.

Laying the finishing coating (fibreboard) on the reinforcing layer

After we have completed the installation of the third reinforcing layer, we already have a picture of our future floor emerging.

Now we transfer all our measurements to the fiberboard sheet.
We cut the fiberboard along the contours using a construction knife.
Let's try on fiberboard.
The fiberboard should lie flush even in the corners.

Laying fiberboard sheets on the floor

After fitting, we remove the fiberboard and use a gun to “fill” the sealant into the cracks.
After sealing all the cracks with sealant, you should end up with something like this.

ATTENTION! Sealant must be applied thin layer. Also, it should not protrude, otherwise the fiberboard will not adhere tightly to the floor. If suddenly the sealant lays down too thickly, it doesn’t matter, it can be easily removed with a damp cloth or napkin.

Well, now that we have “blown out” all the cracks using sealant, we move on to the final stage - laying the fiberboard.

After the fiberboard has been laid, it must be properly pressed to the floor. This is done so that all excess silicone comes out.
Now we screw the fiberboard using a screwdriver and wood screws measuring 3.5 x 25 mm.
We screw the screws in a “herringbone” shape with a step of 40 cm in all directions.

Prices for fiberboards (fibreboard, MDF, HDF)

Fiberboards (fibreboard, MDF, HDF)

OK it's all over Now. All work on installing heated floors on the balcony multi-storey building completed. In this article, we looked at step-by-step instructions on how to install a floor on a balcony with your own hands using sandwich technology. Good luck with your renovation!

The wooden floor on the balcony makes its design unique and opens up the mass technical capabilities. For example, to install heated floors.

In this article we will tell you how to properly lay a wood floor and complete all the preparatory work.

In fact, many people can cover the floor with boards if they choose the right wood and take measures against atmospheric factors on the balcony.

Do you want reliable, beautiful floors, but don’t know how to quickly and efficiently make a wooden floor on a balcony or loggia with your own hands? Use our recommendations.

Below you will see prices from the Moscow manufacturing company “:

Rough floor finishing
Wooden beam
from 1 000 RUR/m2

from 1 000 RUR/m2
DSP screed
from 1 500 RUR/m2
GVL
from 2 200 RUR/m2
Expanded clay
from 600 RUR/m2
Floor finishing
Laminate
from 1 200 RUR/m2
Batten
from 2 500 RUR/m2
Linoleum
from 900 RUR/m2

Calculate wood floor finishing from a Moscow company

(Only for residents of Moscow and the Moscow region), send a request to calculate the cost:

Follow the suggested algorithm of actions, and soon you will be able to enjoy walking on the balcony floor, even without shoes. This coating is durable, retains heat well and looks aesthetically pleasing.

Clear instructions for laying the floor will also be useful to control the workers and not miss anything if you decide to entrust the work to professionals.

Advantages and features of wooden flooring on a balcony or loggia

Not everyone glazes their corner of nature in their apartment, but as a rule, no one leaves a bare concrete slab after renovation. It is unpleasant to stand on such a cold and inhospitable surface; moisture penetrates through the cracks, and cement dust gets into the room, which cannot be said about the wooden floor on the balcony. The only advantage of concrete is durability. But a natural wooden floor on a balcony can last for decades and even be “inherited” by children and grandchildren if it is made of moisture-resistant durable species (larch, oak, beech) without compromising technology.

Wooden floors on the balcony are warm for two reasons:

low thermal conductivity of the wood itself;
the ability to lay insulation under the covering or even install a “warm floor” system.

The advantages of a wooden floor include the possibility, which is necessary with a high threshold.

In addition to correcting low covering on a balcony, wood makes it easy to eliminate defects such as a crooked floor.

When giving preference to one or another floor covering, please note that installing a wooden (including parquet) floor on a balcony is quite simple task, which does not require any special tools, no special skills.

An important feature of wood flooring is its lightness. The design will not load even a dilapidated balcony.

But this quality depends on the type of wood. Oak is dense and therefore heavy, but it is not subject to deformation at all and has fire-resistant qualities. But pine is light, soft, and malleable to processing. But under load it will change its texture over time.

In addition, pine (especially fast-growing species) is flammable, susceptible to rot and insect attacks. A compromise option is larch. It is not at all afraid of moisture and will withstand even direct exposure to precipitation if the balcony is not sealed.

These facts need to be taken into account.

Main types of wood flooring on a balcony

There are coverings from different varieties wood and its derivatives (parquet, deck boards, plywood and other options). There are also several methods of laying on a prepared base. The choice will depend mainly on the purpose and availability of glazing in the room.

Let's first consider how to cover a wooden floor on an unglazed balcony.

When your “nature corner” is designed as an open mini-terrace for relaxing on fresh air, you need to be careful when choosing a wooden floor. It is advisable to choose moisture-resistant types of wood, such as larch.

The floorboard for the floor on the balcony must be thoroughly dried and be sure to be treated with antiseptics against rotting, insects and fire retardants in case someone's half-smoked cigarette falls from the upper floors.

On open balcony lay the following types floors:

from deck boards;
from a more modern WPC decking board ();
larch decking boards
and the so-called “garden parquet” (before laying the tiles, make the floor on a slope so that water drains from it).

For a number of reasons, we recommend choosing deck boards rather than deck boards for installation on the balcony. Terrace board (wood polymer composite) consists of wood flour and polymer, has better waterproofing, does not rot, it is perfectly smooth, does not require impregnation with oil or varnish.

Garden parquet tiles are an even more pleasant “option”, both in terms of installation and further operation. In particular, it repels dust and dirt from its surface.

The floorboard is mainly used on a glazed balcony, since its operating conditions are close to those of a living space. For sealed glazing, the use of plywood is also acceptable. The shortcomings of a plank floor made of inexpensive wood and combined raw materials will be smoothed out by impregnation, painting or varnishing. But it’s still better to use solid board made from weather-resistant wood species. In any case, it will be more durable than plywood and the floor will not have to be redone.

At glazed balcony and the presence of parquet in the rooms, an ordinary parquet board will look appropriate and very beautiful.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the technique of raising the floor to eliminate the defect of a too high threshold. For the frame, ordinary timber is stocked.

Sequence of work

This step-by-step instruction will help you lay the floor on the balcony with your own hands without any modifications.

If you are planning glazing, do it before making the floors from the boards, especially since the balcony is stronger than the loggia and is open to rain and snow.
Preparation the necessary tool and building materials, drying, impregnation of boards.
Waterproofing the concrete base (when the dilapidated screed is completely dismantled).
Preparation of the base (pouring or repairing concrete screed, eliminating cracks and other defects, cleaning, removing dust, dirt and debris).
Waterproofing a ready-made screed using impregnation that penetrates deeply into the pores of concrete and other materials.
Laying logs on the balcony (for small room 3 longitudinal boards are enough).
Insulation (if the room is not airtight, skip this point - the insulation will not be useful, moreover, moisture will begin to accumulate in it).
Installation on joists or concrete base.
Finishing, colorless varnish coating.

Note! Impregnating and drying wood is a long process, so if you don’t have time, it’s better to buy already prepared wooden elements.

By the way, to lay a wooden floor on a balcony with your own hands, it is not necessary to lay joists. In some cases, the boards are laid directly on the concrete.

Make sure that the logs are laid strictly horizontally.

Do not rush to lay a wooden floor on your balcony - make sure that its height is no higher than the threshold.

Materials and tools

The main elements of a plank floor:

oak blocks for logs (other hardwoods are also suitable, but not metal - it will make the structure heavier);
sorted batten with tongues and grooves for connection (it is preferable to use polished rather than edged);
polyurethane foam;
waterproofing (film, roofing felt, mastic, liquid impregnation, paint, waterproofing rolls, liquid rubber/glass, plaster);
insulation (to choose from: penofol, basalt and mineral wool, extruded polystyrene foam, perlite cement boards or other heat insulator).

There are many videos on the Internet about how to make a wooden floor on a balcony with your own hands, and what materials are suitable for this. Instead of boards, you can take plywood or pressed boards. But you can’t skimp on waterproofing, for example, use thick oil paint for surface treatment. Buy a special latex acrylic paint or waterproof plaster.

Tools you will need:

hammer;
mount for dismantling;
roulette;
level;
wide spatula for leveling the screed;
screws, nails;
screwdriver;
saw or jigsaw;
staple gun/stapler;
drill;
brushes

You may need a knife to cut layers of insulation. You also need to prepare how to paint the finished wooden floor on a glazed or terrace-type balcony.

Preparing the base for wood flooring

The installation of a wooden floor at home begins with preliminary strengthening or restoration of the slab on the balcony. This may involve dismantling the worn-out coating and pouring a new screed to eliminate unevenness, or redecorating base using sealant and repair mortar with mandatory cleaning of the surface.

When making a floor from planks on a balcony, people often don’t know how to make concrete screed. The sequence of actions is as follows:

Treatment waterproofing mastic the junction of the house wall with the slab.
Installation removable formwork in order to liquid concrete did not spread on the slab before drying.
Alignment of two parallel beacons (slats) along the length of the slab (placed horizontally using a level).
Pouring and leveling the solution.
Adding cement to places where pits form and then leveling.
The next day, you need to remove the beacons and fill their recesses with solution.
Smooth out the slightly hardened screed with a spatula and leave for a couple of weeks until completely dry.

Insulation and waterproofing of the base

Waterproofing the floor is a mandatory step in arranging a wooden balcony floor if you do not want to subsequently deal with mold and mildew.

Everyone who decides to equip their balcony strives to make it beautiful, high-quality and functional. To do this, the floor, wall and ceiling decoration are changed. Let's consider what is better to lay on the floor on the balcony.

Types of flooring

There is no single option than to cover the floor on the balcony. Almost all floor coverings have the same characteristics and perform their functions perfectly.

To make floors on the loggia, the options may be as follows:

linoleum;
laminate;
carpet;
ceramic tile;
wooden floors;
Self-leveling floors.

Let's look at the features of each type of coating and decide which floor is best for the balcony.

Features of linoleum

Linoleum has a number of positive characteristics:

Low price.
Easy to use.
Quite easy to install.
A variety of colors and types, which allows you to easily and quickly choose exactly what you need.
Long service life.
Quite high quality.

Linoleum, in addition to the listed advantages, has several disadvantages. The floor on the balcony should be made of whole piece material. If you cover the floor with several pieces, then moisture will accumulate under the linoleum, and this is bad. And one more minus: after some time the coating fades and loses its original appearance.

Laminate characteristics

IN winter time Laminate flooring cannot be laid on the balcony. Especially if the temperature is below 10 degrees and the air humidity is more than 70%. Work can be carried out at temperatures above 5 degrees.

This material is beautiful and lightweight, however, it has a significant drawback - it does not tolerate high humidity. Can be used on a balcony only if it is glazed with high quality and moisture does not get inside.

Carpet on the balcony

You can also use carpet on the loggia. This material has long term operation. Adapts perfectly to different conditions. Carpet can also be used on uneven surfaces. However, to make it convenient and comfortable to walk on it, it is necessary to make the concrete screed as even as possible.

You can walk on the carpet barefoot, as it is pleasant and soft to the touch. Big choice color range, which makes it possible to select materials for any interior.

The disadvantage of this coating is that it absorbs a lot of dust, so you need to vacuum it often.

Laying ceramic tiles

When choosing what to put on the floor on the balcony, you can decide in favor of ceramic tiles. Beautiful appearance, a huge number of color variations and patterns. You can lay tiles on the balcony yourself. The service life is quite long. Appearance does not change for approximately 10 years. Easy to clean: most often just wipe with a damp cloth.

The tile has high quality. However, this material is very cold and requires additional insulation. This can be done using various systems heated floors (more details: " "). Ceramics is a heavy material, and balcony slab It is not advisable to overload. Therefore, you should pay attention to lighter types of ceramic tiles.

Wood floors

When choosing boards, you should pay attention to their humidity; it should be no higher than 10%. And also for distortions along the edge and thickness, no more than 2 mm and 1 mm, respectively.

To prevent the wooden floor from rotting and to serve for a very long time, the boards must be treated with special protective compounds and apply varnish. Making such a floor on a balcony is not difficult; even a non-professional can handle it.

The disadvantages of such a floor include the need to periodically update the coating. After some time it will lose its attractive appearance.

Self-leveling floors - modern coating

The self-leveling floor requires additional insulation. In order for the coating to last as long as possible, it must be coated with several layers of varnish. This floor needs periodic updating.

Which coating should you choose?

It was decided to improve the floor on the balcony and what to make it better from - a question that everyone asks. When choosing a material, you need to take into account all the features of a particular floor covering. The final decision is influenced by the service life and quality of the material, ease of installation, range, cost and weight.

Under any selected floor covering it is necessary to install vapor and moisture insulation. They will not allow moisture from the lower tiers to enter the room. In this case there will be no high humidity(read also: " "). If a balcony in the house is being finished old building, then it is better to choose lighter materials. Create additional load on load-bearing structures that have lost their original strength concrete plates do not do it.

The easiest material to install is linoleum. All you need is a spicy one stationery knife and roulette. If the humidity percentage in the room is higher than allowed for linoleum, then you should not lay it.

Then what should the floor on the balcony be made of? In this case, you can make the floor from wood (oak or hornbeam). This option is simple and high quality. A floor made from this material is very simple to make; moreover, it is warm and has a long service life.

Wooden materials are considered the best in terms of price and quality ratio. Repairs to such a coating will not be necessary soon. It only needs to be re-varnished or painted every few years to maintain its original appearance.

Let's sum it up

There are flooring materials that will make the flooring warm and cozy, and will also match the interior. a large number of. And yet, what floor is better to make on the loggia?

Among the coatings that are in great demand in terms of price-quality ratio, wooden floors occupy a leading position. The price of wood is lower than, for example, tiles.