What is now used instead of tow in construction. Removing old caulk

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Replacing fum tape

IN plumbing work New technologies have long since arrived, and fum tape has come to replace winding flax. But there are situations when there is neither winding flax at hand, nor, especially, fum tape. How to get out of this situation, literally, dry? How replace fum tape?

It turns out that we encounter such substitute material at every step today. For replacing fum tape An ordinary plastic bag, in which products are packaged in a store, be it bread, meat, fish or vegetables, is quite suitable. Any products in supermarkets and stores are packaged in such bags, but you should not use rustling dumpling or frozen packaging for these purposes.

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There are 8 comments left on this post.

It’s all so simple, but sometimes there’s an emergency and there’s nothing at hand.

More than once I found myself in situations where nothing was at hand, but I didn’t think of this, thanks for the advice!

I can’t imagine myself without Tangit anymore reliable connection. However, something happened. Then yes.

how to replace fum tape

Polyethylene is good advice.

This is an option for an EMERGENCY situation, but it is better to use fum tape. It was, I know.

I don’t argue with you that it’s better, of course, to use fum tape, but when you don’t have it at hand, but you need to get the job done, then this way you can get away with the situation.

Good advice! Sometimes you have to play the role of a brilliant plumber.

Everything ingenious is simple! Thanks, we'll use it.

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What can replace fum tape?

Fum tape can be replaced with flax + Unipak paste. These kits are sold at any plumbing store. The paste is needed to prevent the flax from rotting in contact with water. Previously, this paste was replaced with Surik primer

And also with Tangit Unilok thread

The most quality connection in critical places this is a combination using flax with paste.

Fum tape appeared relatively recently, and before, tow was used with all its might, and even now, when the tape has suddenly run out and you don’t want to go to the store, it’s quite possible to use tow. True, the tow has not gone very well now good quality(there is too much obvious straw in it), but even in this case, if you use it together with Unipak paste, and in extreme cases with ordinary paint, the connection will be reliable. It should be taken into account that when winding tow together with paint, it will be problematic to unwind such a connection.

You can replace fum tape with simple plumbing flax, because before the advent of fum tape, no one tried to wrap connections with anything other than flax. And to this day, all plumbers prefer linen rather than some kind of tape. Linen is much more reliable and costs much less than these imported bells and whistles.

How to replace fum tape at home

When choosing FUM tape or flax strands for thread sealing, it is wise to consider the third option - modern and more convenient. However, if in practice the question has become tough - which is better, fum tape or tow - then the answer will depend on several factors: what thread is sealed, in what system, where, what is its peculiarity. Let's talk today about the advantages and disadvantages of these classic sealants and analyze their scope of application.

Tow and plumbing - how it works

Plumbing flax, tow, flax strands are all names for the same thing. Tow flax is a sealant used for household needs for more than 50 years. They compacted flax in the USSR, they do it in new Russia. Flax was not affected by any cataclysms: the transition to a market economy, the appearance of metal-plastic on the market, the demand for innovative sealants. Perhaps it will survive flax and renovation.

There is an opinion among ordinary people that sealing threads on flax - if not last century, it definitely smells like mothballs. There were cases when, upon seeing tow in the hands of a master, customers widened their eyes and advised not to do this again. They say there are better materials in stores. However, professionals know that they need to work with any sealant, because the need for it may arise unexpectedly.

Linen is a skein in the form of a braid, from which the required length is cut to seal the thread of a specific diameter. It is difficult to calculate the exact amount of flax for the mixture. They do this by eye, based on previous experience. We can say for sure that linen is suitable for carving in any condition: dirty, wet or old. Those. For systems that have seen the world, for example, in old houses, linen is irreplaceable.

Tow for pipes is also popular due to its low price. Cost per 100 grams sanitary flax starts from 50 rubles and depends on the quality of the material. However, not all so simple. By itself, a strand of flax is useless. You can't just wind flax and assemble the joint. Additional impregnation is required to enhance the sealing properties. Impregnation paste is applied on top of the flax wound on the thread and protects against corrosion, swelling, and rotting. Together with impregnation, the price of flax has already reached 150 rubles per 100 grams.

The usual form of flax production - in braids - causes complaints from consumers. Flax fibers get in the way, cling to clothes, stick to the impregnation and spoil the appearance of the joint. Some manufacturers today produce flax in a bobbin. A reel costs more than 200 rubles for 80-100 grams. Which, of course, reduces talk about the availability of flax to nothing.

The two main disadvantages of flax are its nature and application technology. Flax is organic, plant material. And how plant material rots or decays over time. Impregnated tow lasts longer than the one without treatment, but still the compound on flax has a very specific and very short shelf life - 3-5 years. Such connections should be regularly inspected and checked for leaks.

When it comes to application, linen requires a trained hand and experience. Firstly, the difficulty is exact quantity linen ribbon. Secondly, they wind it strictly along the thread, getting into each turn. Thirdly, the end of the strand is also secured in a special way at the beginning of the thread - so that when twisted it does not roll or slip. To secure flax to the threads, notches are specially made or fittings with ready-made, factory-made notches are chosen. It is not recommended to use flax on plastic, metal-plastic, or thin-walled threads. In general, with a wide variety of sealants on the market, the use of flax raises a lot of questions.

What can be used instead of tow? Synthetic sealants. They last longer and are less hassle. Let's look at an example of such a sealant - FUM tape.

FUM tape is a synthetic sealant based on fluoroplastic. As the name implies, it is a tape produced in a reel. The cost varies from 30 to 160 rubles and above and depends on the quality of the material, width and thickness. To seal the thread, the FUM is selected individually, depending on the diameter.

FUM tape, unlike flax, is most effective on plastic pipes and fine carving. Many craftsmen note that they use FUM for diameters no larger than 1 inch, because... Otherwise, tape consumption cannot be called economical.

To apply FUM tape, it is first stretched into a thread, wound onto each thread several times, and then the entire width of the tape is applied to the thread and secured. They begin to assemble the connection and do it very carefully so that the tape does not get lost or break. If you have never had to deal with this kind of sealant before, we advise you to practice “idle” - try the winding a couple of times, and then get to work. By the way, this way you will quickly understand how to replace tow with ribbon or some other material.

The moment of choice of tape is important. If flax is assessed by appearance, then FUM needs to be tried. High-quality tape stretches well and does not tear. But you can understand this by already purchasing the sealant - on site. It is unlikely that a store or market will allow you to test a product without paying.

Besides plastic and thin-walled threads, where else is fum tape relevant?

For gas supply systems and non-standard liquid media

For high temperature systems

For repairing rubber rings and gaskets in faucets, shower heads

What is important to know when buying tape?

Ineffective in heating systems because cannot withstand multidirectional loads and pressure changes

Demanding on the quality of the thread - before winding, the thread is checked for the presence of burrs, notches, and roughness that can damage the tape

It is capricious and shows results only in the hands of a professional - to work with FUM tape, you need experience not only in application, but also in choosing a good material

FUM tape or tow? These sealants have a lot in common - low price, fame in the market and in professional environment, availability in any region. But they also have serious disadvantages in common: not the most convenient application, limited scope of application, high consumption. If you have a lot of work to do - installation of communications in a private house, installation of equipment and plumbing - it is better to choose the latest generation of seals: polymer thread, anaerobic gel. With them you will do everything 3 times faster due to the high speed of application and instant sealing.

anaerobic sealants as an alternative to traditional sealants

The difference between fum tape and electrical tape?

In this article, as in the video, I will try to break down quite complex and interesting topic regarding the best way to pack threads. Besides a few less common thread sealers that many have never heard of, there are three main competitors on the market in the fight for the hearts of plumbers and anyone who has ever wound threads in their household. These are LINEN, FUM-TAPE and THREAD.

IN Soviet times There was no such question, since the Soviet industry simply did not offer anything else besides flax. Now, for many years, disputes between supporters of the “classical” approach, that is, adherents of flax and their “more modern” colleagues who use fum tape and plumbing thread, have not subsided. Which one is right?

The fact is that among these three sealing materials there is no clear favorite and outright outsider. Each seal is good in its own way, and also has its negative sides. Let's sort them out.

Plumbing linen

Positive sides of flax:

1. Absolutely reliable connections. Centuries of experience in using this seal speaks of its absolute reliability. If you wind the flax onto the thread correctly, then you don’t need to worry about the tightness.
2. Low price. This is the cheapest sealant; the ratio of the number of wound threads to the money spent is clearly in favor of flax.
3. Possibility of adjustment. The connection between flax and paste, even after a few years, can be slightly adjusted, tightened, unscrewed a little, but no more than 45 degrees. In this case, the tightness will not be broken.

Negative sides of flax:

1. The speed of working with flax is very low.

   Seals: flax, FUM tape, thread, sealants

   In the time spent on one winding with flax, you can wind several threads with thread or a fusel. If a facility requires tens or hundreds of threads to be packed, this can easily result in a half-day time difference. And time is money. If you need to wind up one or two threads, then this point is not important.

2. Dirty hands. The fact is that flax is used in conjunction with sealing paste. Read more about pasta in this article. This paste is very soiled and you need to wipe your hands after each use.

Fum tape

Positive aspects of fum tape:

1. Speed ​​of work. Winding the threads with fum tape is the fastest option.

Negative sides of fum tape:

1. Requirement for experience. Despite the apparent simplicity of using fum tape, it is very insidious and requires experience and knowledge in winding. A beginner will most likely not be able to wind it correctly the first time. Also for different types thread available different types fum tapes that differ in width and thickness, this must also be taken into account.
2. Unreliability. People will argue with me, but in my opinion, the connections on the fum tape are the most unreliable. I think that this fact is mostly caused by the reasons from point 1.
3. Impossibility of adjustment. If, during operation or repair of pipelines and connections, the connection on the fum tape is slightly damaged, moved, or twisted, it will inevitably leak. Which will not happen when using flax with paste and thread.

Plumbing thread

Positive aspects of the thread:

1. Thread is good for everyone. This is the most modern material, which has few disadvantages.
2. Available for beginners. Even someone who has never packed threads in their life, after reading the instructions or watching a video on YouTube, will be able to seal the threads tightly the first time using thread. She forgives mistakes and handles very well.
3. The possibility of adjustment is very large. A threaded connection wound with thread can be adjusted up to 180 degrees without loss of tightness.

Negative properties threads:

1. Price. Thread is a very expensive sealant. For home use when winding one or two threads per year, this is not so important. For a professional who winds dozens of threads a day, this can be very expensive.
2. The need for a knife. The thread is usually very strong and cannot be broken by hand. You should always have a knife or scissors at hand, which affects the winding time.

Conclusions:

1. A thread- for home use and for those professionals who do not save money.
2. Linen- for professional use.
3. Fum tape- for temporary connections.

forum member

I made it through all 12 pages! A lot has been written... Actually, everything that could be said for and against has already been said.
My 5 cents: time-tested tow definitely better sealant. Let it be at least a super-duper imported technology. It’s already been written, but still, wood is a “living” material that constantly gains and releases moisture. There are a lot of examples to prove this, somehow swollen wooden doors, windows, drying floors. It is impossible to completely dry the tree. It will still take moisture from the atmosphere.
As for sealant as a substitute for tow between the crowns of a log house, IMHO it’s nonsense and a waste of money. No matter how super flexible it is, in some places it will still move away from the logs, moisture will somehow get into the formed micro-cracks, but it will take a very long time to get out of there because the sealant does not “breathe”, unlike tow.
Why tempt fate, I don’t understand?
No matter how many times I looked at old houses while dismantling them, the condition of the logs was very good, some were generally perfect. Everything is covered in moss and tow. Houses stacked up traditional way cost 100 years or more. I suggest looking at the condition of the logs with sealant instead of oakum in at least 30-40 years. Are those who are actively promoting sealants here ready to guarantee the same safety of logs as with caulking?
By the way, about caulking 2-3 or more times and generally throughout your life - this is powerfully said =)
If the log house is well-built, it is enough to caulk it once (provided that the one who caulks it knows how to do it).

Participant

Why don’t you wear bast shoes? time-tested environmentally friendly technology! Why don't you ride horses? Time-tested, environmentally friendly technology! But you don’t do all this because in terms of comfort, manufacturability, efficiency and performance characteristics, good modern shoes and a car are superior to bast shoes and horses!

I still don’t understand what yours has to do with this, what is it said in what context? why refuse wood in decoration? Well then the log house is not for you at all.

"No matter how super flexible it is, in some places it will still move away from the logs"
Do you know how much more it will cost you to heat your house in winter conditions on your caulk? Much more expensive.

I’m not a seller of sealants, and I can’t tell you how quickly they serve, and what tests they passed, but if I find out the information, I’ll post it. But it is a fact that the energy efficiency of caulked houses is lower and heat loss is higher. And over the 100 years you are talking about, these zatarats will cover the cost of a new house. The average house is 150 square meters per month in heating season will eat up about 7-8 thousand rubles. In case of sealing good material costs will be reduced by half (the experience of my friend from Yekaterinburg uses one Thermex gas boiler to heat his old house, which is 70-80 years old with an area of ​​about 80 sq. m. and a new one built next to it with an area of ​​200 square meters) for an old house he paid 3000 per season, now he pays 6000 for two, just count it!) 3500 * 7 months from October to April (although in Yekaterinburg people have heating from September to May.) 24,500 rubles per year in savings. now multiply by 100 years
“If the log house is well-built, it is enough to caulk it once (provided that the one who caulks knows how to do it).”

Registration: 04/04/12 Messages: 1,404 Thanks: 2,602

skip
...Is your foam coming off your wooden window? Don’t you want to remove the mounting foam and replace it in the windows with caulking, as was the case in Soviet times? Is the glass that you have glued to the windshield on your car also coming off?...
skip.

Uv. Mikhalych, your point of view has the right to life. Who would argue (even though this is exactly what is happening)? If experts can’t come to the same opinion about tow/moss/jute, etc., then why is sealant worse in this series? Do you use/recommend? For God's sake . I do not at all belittle the merits of the sealant; like everything else, it has its advantages and disadvantages. In addition, I agree with those who say that this technology is untested (it was smooth on paper, but they forgot about the ravines). Only God knows how the tree will behave under the sealant (maybe the manufacturers also know, but if there is a negative effect, but it will only appear in the long term, why the hell will they tell you about it).
I'm an amateur in construction, I won't argue. But you also rely too much on technology, this is your right, but please do not consider others backward if they do not want to lead progress. Regarding your examples, they are not entirely correct. You are focusing on the strength/elasticity of the connection, but the ambush lies elsewhere. If we take your analogies, then the glass on the car, of course, holds up, but the iron under the sealant very quickly becomes unusable, a small possibility of moisture/condensation accumulation is enough. I understand that iron and wood are, as they say, “two big differences,” but then don’t bring it up similar examples, or be more objective, naming not only the advantages but also the side effects. On a completely safe car body, in places where sealant has been treated there may be holes or just rot (although all bodies are treated special compounds, to slow down corrosion).
It turned out to be long, I apologize... it’s just that the example with auto sealants and glass, as a person associated with auto repair for 20 years, somehow “cut my ears.”
I repeat: Uv. Mikhalych, your point of view has the right to life.

Registration: 01/22/11 Messages: 992 Thanks: 1,000

homemade if possible

Registration: 01/22/11 Messages: 992 Thanks: 1,000 Address: ZHITOMIR

- Is your foam coming off your wooden window? Don’t you want to remove the mounting foam and replace it in the windows with caulking, as was the case in Soviet times? Does the glass that you have glued to the windshield on your car also come off?

You put the window on the foam in the frame and we’ll see if it holds up. With any movement, the foam tears (it is not elastic) - this is already a closed topic; you yourself are incompetent in these matters and beat people up.

But it is a fact that the energy efficiency of caulked houses is lower and heat loss is higher. And over the 100 years you are talking about, these zatarats will cover the cost of a new house.

Do you even believe what you write - rubber is warmer than tow (nonsense). Caulk it well so that it doesn’t blow and forget about it.

So, are you responsible for the crooked-armed builders? The sealant also helps to eliminate mistakes made by builders.

This means caulking your hands is not something that has grown out of proportion, but all specialists should use sealant (you can also insulate the house with polystyrene foam so that the wind will blow through the house)

Registration: 04/15/10 Messages: 134 Thanks: 36

forum member

Registration: 04/15/10 Messages: 134 Thanks: 36 Address: MO/Vladimir

Registration: 04/15/10 Messages: 134 Thanks: 36

forum member

Registration: 04/15/10 Messages: 134 Thanks: 36 Address: MO/Vladimir

Why don’t you wear bast shoes? time-tested environmentally friendly technology! Why don't you ride horses? Time-tested, environmentally friendly technology! But you don’t do all this because in terms of comfort, manufacturability, efficiency and performance characteristics, good modern shoes and a car are superior to bast shoes and horses.

Why are you lumping everything together? We are not discussing here the advantage of cars compared to horses, or shoes compared to bast shoes, but a very specific thing - proven tow or modern sealants. So there is no need to create a flood here - 13 pages have already been written, of which a constructive dispute with arguments/counterarguments can be fit into 2 pages. If you are such an ardent supporter of new technologies, then the log house is definitely not for you. For people like you, houses made of sedwich panels and other know-how were invented.

I still don’t understand what yours have to do with it : “There are a lot of examples to confirm this, such as swollen wooden doors, windows, drying floors. It is impossible to completely dry wood. It will still take moisture from the atmosphere.” What is this said in what context? why refuse wood in decoration? Well then the Log House is not for you at all!

What exactly is not clear here? Written in the context of the discussion "sealant vs tow". Further there is an explanation - the sealant will come away from the wood sooner or later, there will be cracks. As for wood trim, solid wood doors, kitchen facades from solid wood and in general anything made of wood - I’m not writing that wood should be abandoned. On the contrary, it is a noble material, which becomes less and less every year. You just need to understand that wood has the ability to expand and contract, therefore, when finishing with wood and building with wood, you need to take this into account and be prepared for it. No sealant can completely seal a log house - this is a utopia.
No, the log house is just for me. I have log house in the village, planted on moss, caulked with tow. He and his father chopped and rolled some more as a boy. I know what I'm writing about.

- Is your foam coming off your wooden window? Don’t you want to remove the mounting foam and replace it in the windows with caulking, as was the case in Soviet times? Does the glass that you have glued to the windshield on your car also come off? You are talking about something you don’t know! showing your incompetence.
Do you know how much more it will cost you to heat your house in winter conditions on your caulk? Much more expensive.!

I won't even comment on this nonsense. Bol answered you below. And be gentler on turns with insults! Incompetent is the one who does not want to learn from the mistakes of others, putting his own forehead on the line, and ignores many years of experience and proven construction technologies. The guys want to do experiments on their houses - for God's sake! It's their right.
Polyurethane foam, under certain loads, comes off not only from wood, but is destroyed by ultraviolet radiation (even indirect sun rays), short-lived, etc. Any material has its pros and cons - miracles do not happen. But that's not what we're talking about here.

“No matter how much I looked at old houses during dismantling, the condition of the logs is very good, some are generally perfect. Everything is covered with moss and tow. Houses built in the traditional way cost 100 years or more. I suggest looking at the condition of the logs with sealant instead of tow in 30-40 years at least. Are those who are actively promoting sealants here ready to guarantee the same safety of logs as with caulking?"

- I’m not a seller of sealants, and I can’t tell you how quickly they serve, and what tests they passed, if I find out the information, I’ll post it. But it is a fact that the energy efficiency of caulked houses is lower and heat loss is higher. And over the 100 years you are talking about, these zatarats will cover the cost of a new house. An average house with an area of ​​150 square meters per month during the heating season will consume about 7-8 thousand rubles. In the case of sealing with good material, the costs will be reduced by half (the experience of my friend from Yekaterinburg with one gas boiler Thermex heats his old house which is 70 - 80 years old with an area of ​​​​about 80 sq. m. and a new one built nearby with 200 square meters) for the old house he I paid 3000 per season, now I pay 6000 for two, just count it!) 3500 * 7 months from October to April (although in Yekaterinburg people have heating from September to May.) 24,500 rubles per year in savings. Now multiply by 100 years.

The point is that there is not yet enough information on the operation of these super-duper sealants. Houses with sealants in the seams haven’t lasted 20 years yet, and many here are foaming at the mouth to prove that this is a panacea, that we can’t easily survive without them. You need to understand that in our age, when everything is put on capitalist rails and focused on making a profit for everyone possible ways, you need to be able to distinguish really useful inventions from husks.
No one is going to live 100 years. No need for utopian examples!

- and you are responsible for the crooked Strotiels? The sealant also helps to eliminate mistakes made by builders.

Well, you yourself wrote it - a sealant for those whose logs were cut by crooked hands. I didn't pull your tongue.

Registration: 01/24/12 Messages: 61 Thanks: 11

Wow! This is exactly what they cut for me! So for me the sealant is just right!

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Newbie

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The argument is about nothing. The sealant is simpler and better. Anyone, as long as it meets the stated characteristics. It does not create heat, it is no warmer than tow - it does not allow the caulked seams to blow through. It is not the tow that holds heat, but the air, or rather the small air bubbles in the tow; the more of them and the smaller they are, the better. It does not come off the wood - but sticks tightly, if it is acrylic or polyurethane, silicone may come off, I haven’t tried it. All sealant was originally created to work ELASTICALLY in cracks. Wood sealer is designed to work on wood. We just don’t have polyurethane ones, we have acrylic ones, they work well, but polyurethane ones are more environmentally friendly and reliable, and the choice of colors allows you to seal them beautifully. I went through the seams tentatively timber bath in the waiting room - I liked it. I'll do it in the washroom, time will tell.

Registration: 04/05/12 Messages: 36 Thanks: 13

Participant

Registration: 04/05/12 Messages: 36 Thanks: 13 Address: Tolyatti

The argument is about nothing. The sealant is simpler and better. Anyone, as long as it meets the stated characteristics. It does not create heat, it is no warmer than tow - it does not allow the caulked seams to blow through. It is not the tow that holds heat, but the air, or rather the small air bubbles in the tow; the more of them and the smaller they are, the better. It does not come off the wood - but sticks tightly, if it is acrylic or polyurethane, silicone may come off, I haven’t tried it. All sealant was originally created to work ELASTICALLY in cracks. Wood sealer is designed to work on wood. We just don’t have polyurethane ones, we have acrylic ones, they work well, but polyurethane ones are more environmentally friendly and reliable, and the choice of colors allows you to seal them beautifully. I walked tentatively along the seams of the timber bathhouse in the dressing room - I liked it. I'll do it in the washroom, time will tell.

There are polyurethane ones! you just need to look! I have already sent a request to my supplier of polyurethane adhesives for parquet, they promised to send information. If you're interested, I can share the information later.

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Participant

Registration: 04/05/12 Messages: 36 Thanks: 13 Address: Tolyatti

“Besides, I agree with those who talk about the untested nature of this technology (it was smooth on paper, but they forgot about the ravines). Only God knows how the tree will behave under the sealant (maybe the manufacturers also know, but if there is a negative effect , but it will only manifest itself in the long term - why the hell will they tell you about it).
That is, you do not trust serious and reputable companies, including Western ones, who claim any properties of the material? When releasing new products to the market, the manufacturer conducts a lot of research. For example, on my topic. the manufacturer claims that they are glued with elastic wooden floors practically do not form cracks and does not dry out for many years. How did they know this? It’s very simple: testing in a special chamber that simulates aging cycles. It's the same in other industries. I don’t believe all the statements unfounded, but I still listen. And I base my opinion on many factors. And the unfounded statements: the sealant is not elastic, and even if it is elastic, it will not hold, and if it does hold, it will freeze, and if it does not freeze, then there will be mold, and if there is no mold, then it will definitely not be warmer, and if it will be warmer then you yourself are a fool and the moss (tow) is better.
You are focusing on the strength/elasticity of the connection, but the ambush lies elsewhere. If we take your analogies, then the glass on the car, of course, holds up, but the iron under the sealant very quickly becomes unusable, a small possibility of moisture/condensation accumulation is enough. I understand that iron and wood are, as they say, “two big differences,” but then don’t give such examples, or be more objective, naming not only the advantages but also the side effects. On a completely healthy car body, in places where sealant has been treated there may be holes or just rot (although all bodies are treated with special compounds to slow down corrosion).
My sibling a company that replaces auto glass, I have already heard and seen how glass is changed a million times. So, my dear, there are no holes under the sealant itself! There are traces of corrosion where there is no sealant, namely under the rubber seals that are not tightly adjacent to the body.
The argument just turns out to be about nothing. Tell me the advantages! I have not yet heard the advantages of Pakli compared to polyurethane sealant! I named the advantages. Name the advantages of Tow in relation to sealant!

You put the window on the foam in the frame and we’ll see if it holds up. With any movement, the foam tears (it is not elastic) - this is already a closed topic; you yourself are incompetent in these matters and beat people up.
And I didn’t even talk about the foam window in the log house. I was talking about regular window and about regular foam and an ordinary house!
Why don’t they use tow there? why was it abandoned?
Polyurethane foam is not elastic, but sealant is elastic. And why did the tow become elastic? that is, you question the elasticity of the sealant and not a word at all about the complete absence of it in tow. How does tow behave when wood moves? Yes, just like other inelastic materials. squeezed out, piled up and so on...

Do you even believe what you write - rubber is warmer than tow (nonsense). Caulk it well so that it doesn’t blow and forget about it.
Firstly, it’s not rubber, it’s polyurethane! The tow itself is not a bit warmer. About the heat fell below you wrote correctly! It’s not tow or sealant that gives heat, but air!

This means caulking your hands is not something that has grown out of proportion, but all specialists should use sealant (you can also insulate the house with polystyrene foam so that the wind will blow through the house)
I personally used sealant along the seams! everything is very simple. Take a vilotherm of the appropriate diameter, push it into the joint and apply sealant on top. after this, run along the seam with your finger, previously soaked in a thick soap solution (in order to give an aesthetic and smooth look, use soap so that the sealant does not stick to your fingers, otherwise it is very sticky) and voila! The speed is many times faster than caulking! what does all this have to do once!

So far, no one here has given me a single advantage of tow over polyurethane sealant! I ASK YOU TO WRITE THE ADVANTAGES! The argument I like better is also accepted, but only at the very end! So far I only see attacks on my point of view. and I answer you all with reason. What do I hear from you? some kind of baby talk about rubber, environmental friendliness, blah blah blah
I gave an example of a comparison of methods proven over centuries and new technologies, because as an argument this has been proven over centuries in relation to the latest technologies It sounds at least strange!
Well, of course the log house is not for me. Your log house was probably built without a single nail, and the roof is made of straw, right? These are time-tested technologies.
What exactly is not clear here? Written in the context of the discussion "sealant vs tow". Further there is an explanation - the sealant will come away from the wood sooner or later, there will be cracks. As for wood trim, solid wood doors, solid wood kitchen facades and generally everything made of wood, I am not writing that wood should be abandoned. On the contrary, it is a noble material, which becomes less and less every year. You just need to understand that wood has the ability to expand and contract, therefore, when finishing with wood and building with wood, you need to take this into account and be prepared for it. No sealant can completely seal a log house - this is a utopia.
No, the log house is just for me. I have a log house in the village, planted on moss, caulked with tow. He and his father chopped and rolled some more as a boy. I know what I'm writing about.
The sealant will stick and how! And you, not knowing the topic, question this. I have already described all your arguments above: the sealant is not elastic (and tow?), the sealant will not stick (and tow?). It feels like you don’t really read what I write at all. Sealant must be used in the system! together in sealing Vilaterm! This is a system. which allows you to seal and increase heat transfer through problem areas!
You live in your log house in the village all year round? Or do you only go for the summer?

I won't even comment on this nonsense. Bol answered you below. And be gentler on turns with insults! Incompetent is the one who does not want to learn from the mistakes of others, putting his own forehead on the line, and ignores many years of experience and proven construction technologies. The guys want to do experiments on their houses - for God's sake! It's their right.
Polyurethane foam, under certain loads, comes off not only from wood, but is destroyed by ultraviolet radiation (even indirect sunlight), is short-lived, etc. Any material has its pros and cons - miracles do not happen. But that's not what we're talking about here.
How did I offend someone? Can you tell me? And the sealant has a tensile strength of 500-600%, and it is also UV resistant, unlike foam. Foam was given as an example of the use of new technologies to replace old tow in windows. And here is a link for you about polyurethane sealants:
Well, who will say after this that it cannot withstand a living tree?

The point is that there is not yet enough information on the operation of these super-duper sealants. Houses with sealants in the seams haven’t lasted 20 years yet, and many here are foaming at the mouth to prove that this is a panacea, that we can’t easily survive without them. You need to understand that in our age, when everything is put on capitalist rails and focused on making a profit in all possible ways, you need to be able to distinguish really useful inventions from husk. 992

Linen - separately, impregnation - separately...

Even modern editions of SNiPs, developed in the 80s of the last century, do not exclude from circulation such thread sealant as flax strand; it is also often called “plumbing tow”. However, GOSTs require flax to be impregnated with red lead on drying oil. Modern paints do not contain the previous amount of lead, which protected threaded connections from corrosion, and lead lead on drying oil is a composite product, the components of which still have to be looked for. In addition, winding flax or plumbing tow requires a certain amount. Incorrectly wound plumbing linen strand or tow poorly impregnated (especially with the wrong product) will not create the required level of protection for the plumbing connection. Assembly on linen without impregnation is prohibited; plumbing tow must be impregnated! Impregnation with plumbing silicone thread sealant is also prohibited. What are the consequences?

– Early aging threads: due to the fact that the tow is impregnated with plumbing thread sealant, wear or corrosion of metal parts occurs.
- Leaks.
– Rupture of connection under pressure.

But this type of sealing also has its advantages:

– When tow or plumbing flax is impregnated with a special paste and experienced handling of flax, the connection will last for quite a long time.
– - cheap and widely available material for sealing threads. Tow can be found in any specialized plumbing store or market.

Flax is an environmentally friendly plant product that does not require certification, so connections on flax strands can be used to seal supply pipelines drinking water. Provided that the tow impregnation is also safe for use in sanitary conditions...

FUM-ido - plumbing code

Instead of flax or plumbing tow, a more modern thread sealant is often used -. Many people ask the question: what is better, fum tape or tow? The quality of the connection on the fum tape largely depends on the quality of the tape itself, so many craftsmen who have unsuccessfully tried to find a decent fum tape more than once prefer to use exclusively flax or tow. Cheap, low-quality winding does not stretch well and breaks easily. Even for an experienced craftsman, such a thread sealant will cause a lot of trouble. Of course, in this case, he will not have a question about what is better for him to use: fum tape or tow; most likely he will prefer a more traditional and proven sealant. Calm, just calm...

When handling fum tape, experience with such a sealant is required, as well as with flax or plumbing tow. The correct winding of the fum tape or the thickness of the layer is selected experimentally, which is also similar to the technology for using tow. Therefore, a beginner will have to spend a lot of time sealing with FUM tape. In addition, when assembling assemblies that require positioning of parts relative to each other, a problem of inconsistency may arise, and unscrewing the fum connection means starting the whole work all over again.

– Fum tape is not used in heating systems due to the cold flow properties of fluoroplastic. Here fum tape is inferior to flax or tow.
– Does not withstand vibration loads, therefore this thread sealant is not used as a seal for pipelines subject to vibration during operation. Both tape and tow occupy the same positions here.

The advantage of this type of sealing material is its high chemical resistance. This allows the use of fum in aggressive environments and in pure oxygen environments.

The pipe will not “make you nervous”

Flax and fum tape have been used in plumbing work for several decades, so they can already be called “old-fashioned.” It is worth saying that each master decides for himself whether fum tape or the old, proven tow is better for him. An alternative to such “old-fashioned” methods using flax and fum tape is modern way sealing - plumbing thread impregnated with a special sealing compound. As you know, winding plumbing thread is much more pleasant and easier than using flax or fum tape for these purposes.

In addition, plumbing thread has a number of advantages:

– Synthetic fibers this sealant (plumbing threads) does not dry out from high temperatures and do not swell under the influence of moisture during plumbing work.
– Even during production, the plumbing thread is impregnated with the optimal amount of sealing compound, so you can be sure that it will perform protective function fully.
– There is no need to clean the threads from sealant (from threads) in case of contamination during plumbing work.
– The material does not require special handling skills. The Record plumbing thread is easily and quickly wound in 10-15 turns, crossing the threaded projections crosswise.
– The thread can withstand pressure 2-3 times higher than plumbing threaded connections on linen.
– Forms quick-disconnect connections.

By the way, assembling a knot using plumbing thread is also several times faster than using flax, which is very important in an emergency situation, and is simply more convenient.

How to wind plumbing thread?

Probably, everyone who picks up a winding machine for the first time asks the question: how to wind plumbing thread? Everything is very simple! To wind a plumbing thread you do not need to put in a lot of effort, as is inherent in winding a thread with flax and paste. This does not require special skills or labor. Even an inexperienced craftsman will adapt after the first time and will wind the plumbing thread on the next threaded connection without any problems the next time.

Here is a small instruction that will help you figure out the question: how to wind plumbing thread.

The first turn of thread is fixed closer to the edge of the thread, and the rest is applied in a cross pattern. Upon completion of winding, the connection is twisted. Thus, the wound plumbing thread will reliably seal the threaded connection.

We looked at the three most popular winding methods: flax strand, fum tape and synthetic thread. All of them have the right to use, since in each specific case it is necessary to take into account a number of features of the sealed systems.

	Linen strand	Fum tape	Thread "Record"
Price	80-100 rub./100 g. plus impregnation	200 rub./50 linear m	245 rub./50 linear m
Ease of use	Experience required	Experience required	No experience required
conditions of use	Can't stand it high pressure, requires impregnation, biodegradable	Do not use in conditions of elevated temperatures, does not decompose	Universal material according to the conditions of use, does not decompose
Resistance to aggressive environments	−	+	+
Vibration resistance	Average	Very low	High
Cleanliness and quality of carving	With restrictions	Demanding	Unpretentious
Preparation of material	Requires impregnation treatment	Ready to use	Ready to use
Working temperature	Up to +150	From °C -50 to +120 °C	From °C -60 to +150 °C
Connection life	From several months to 5 years	Up to 13 years old	More than 15 years

The favorite in terms of price is, of course, flax or sanitary tow. His motto could be the slogan: “Cheap and cheerful.” Being quite demanding and not universal material, it can, nevertheless, claim to be a temporary thread sealant, which it is advisable to soon replace with a more modern one. However, the price of this sealing method may vary depending on the impregnation material (paint, paste, sealant, etc.). Fum tape with an average price of 3.5 rubles/linear. m is a less reliable method of sealing than synthetic thread (plumbing). It will work well for sealing cold “quiet” pipelines (without temperature fluctuations and vibrations).

Rewind "Record", which is a plumbing thread, perhaps best option seals from all presented. This is the most universal sealant, unpretentious and durable for plumbing work, which fully justifies its price.

However, if you need a truly durable and reliable connection, universal to all aggressive environments, what to choose? When choosing a sealant, it is also important to remember that in some cases it is better to seek help from an anaerobic sealant. For example, all windings - flax, fum and plumbing thread - are well suited for notched or roughly cut threads, but not suitable for smooth threads or for conical threads - they slip off. European threads are often found "smooth". Here, winding or thread will no longer help; you need plumbing sealant.

A reliable connection is ensured by modern anaerobic sealants, which are easy to use and much more economical than other sealing methods per fitting. You can purchase such sealants from us directly from the manufacturer or from the nearest store, the address of which can be found in the “” section.

Everyday life Quite often it forces a person to carry out minor repairs, during which rewinding is required. This could be a radiator, as well as plumbing fixtures. Every House master must learn to use tow correctly, as it will be useful to him sooner or later. can be made of metal, plastic, metal-plastic or nylon; each type of material has adapters for connecting other pipes. Such connections will be discussed below.

For reference

Quite often, home craftsmen have to decide how to wind flax onto the tap thread. If you want to hermetically connect the elements of the water supply and pipes, then perform work called packing. If it is necessary to pack two pipes at right angles using a coupling, it is best to cut threads at their ends. The coupling will contain internal thread and outer turns. Twisting them will not be enough; for a proper connection, the threads must be sealed.

Description of flax tow

Before you wind flax on a thread, you should become more familiar with what flax is. fibrous material, which is used to seal threads. The product is natural, it is made from the primary processing of fine, uniform and long-fiber flax. The area of ​​use of flax tow is very wide. Depending on the manufacturing technology, the material can be tape, plumbing, jute or construction. In the latter case, we are talking about insulation, which can ensure reliable tightness of almost any connections. For its production, fully combed fibers are used, which are supplied in bales. This material is used for construction work for sealing seams, insulating the log house and laying wooden elements. It is natural, it is especially appreciated among those who build wooden houses. If construction tow is supplied in rolls, then it is called tape. This material is also used for caulking seams in log houses and laying crowns. The advantage of using flax is its cost. The material is much cheaper compared to any other. It is consumed economically; the fibers, although thin, have high strength. If you wind them correctly, they can be used for any type of work where any connections are used. These can be ceramic and cast iron pipes.

Additional benefits

Before you wrap flax on threads, you should know that it swells as it absorbs moisture. This allows you to increase the tightness, because the leakage has no paths. The mechanical stability of the material is quite high; it is this characteristic that makes it possible to adjust plumbing fixtures without losing the hermetic properties; connections can be unscrewed a full turn or half a turn.

Disadvantages of using flax

If you are thinking about how to wind flax on a thread, you should first familiarize yourself with all the disadvantages of this material. The base material is organic, so it can rot when exposed to air and moisture. They can get inside during routine examinations. For this, tow is accompanied by additional material that can prevent rotting processes. This can be oil paint, sealing paste, lithol or solid oil.

In some cases, it is necessary to prepare the threads before winding, and if the material is laid in too thick a layer, this can cause damage to the connections, which is especially true for brass and bronze. If you are faced with the question of how to wind flax on a thread, you must remember that the seal being described requires the master to know the rules for winding. Related materials in combination with flax can significantly complicate disassembly, this applies to silicone or oil paint. Sometimes such additions make the installation process impossible. Flax is not suitable for use where temperatures can reach 90 °C. In such places, the material is welded and loses its sealing qualities. If you work with steel, you should definitely follow the winding technology. Otherwise, the threads may be subject to corrosion.

Winding flax onto a new thread

Before winding flax onto the thread, if it is new, you should prepare the turns. Many manufacturers today produce fittings that are already threaded, but the latter have notches that are intended for winding flax. The fact is that on a smooth thread the material can slip, it bunches up into a bunch, which leads to a violation of the seal. In order for the fibers to be able to hook, the turns must have serrations. If necessary, you can apply them with a file, a hacksaw or a file. Some craftsmen use a plumber's wrench or pliers: grasp the threads, and then apply notches with light pressure.

The main thing in this work is to achieve roughness on the turns. Before winding flax onto the thread, it is necessary to separate one strand from the whole braid. It is important to capture enough fibers so that the winding is not very thin, but it should not be thick either. Experts advise using a linen thickness that corresponds to two or one match. If there are lumps in the strands, they need to be removed, as well as small villi.

Work methodology

You can apply tow according to own technology, some experts twist it into a rope, some braid it into a loose braid, while others put it in the form of a loose thread. The order in which additional material is applied may also vary. In some cases, you can lubricate the thread by wrapping it with fibers, and then apply another layer. Sometimes the fibers are pre-impregnated and then prepared. Both options are considered correct. If you are thinking about how to wind flax on a thread - clockwise or counterclockwise - then you can listen to the recommendations of experts, some of them wind the strands along the thread, others do the opposite. In this case, the end of the strand should be clamped with a finger outside the turns, the first turn should form a cross, this will allow the material to be fixed. There should be no gaps, you need to lay one turn to another. If you are making a connection, then excess material will be squeezed out of the fitting, this is true if you are working with an iron pipe and a steel coupling. Brass connections, which is important for those that are manufactured according to modern technologies, burst under strong pressure.

Around the wound flax it is necessary to apply plumbing paste or any other sealing material, the movements must be rotational. The work should be as neat as possible. The second end should be glued closer to the edge of the thread, and before tightening, you need to check whether the pipe hole is filled with sealing material. Now you know, you can see photos of these works in the article. However, from them you will not be able to understand that it is necessary to tighten the elements with moderate force. If the nut goes easily, then little flax was put in. The winding will be correct if the material does not come out and the surfaces around the joint remain clean. It is not recommended to use organic tow for gas connections, this is due to the fact that under the influence of gas it and the silicone, which is used additionally, are destroyed. Here it is most appropriate to use fum tape.

Winding flax on ecoplastic products

If you are thinking about how to wind flax on a thread, then you can use the technology that is used in the case of working on ecoplastic products. This material, like brass, can burst. The main thing is not to overdo it. Before starting work, both fittings should be connected and the number of revolutions counted. The flax is wound evenly, its surface is coated additional material, only then can the fittings be connected. If at idle you counted 5 revolutions, then after winding the tape it is best to make about 4.5 revolutions, but you do not need to reach the end. In this case, it is more advisable to use packaging paste instead of sealant.

Conclusion

Quite often, home craftsmen wonder how to wind flax onto a pipe thread. In this case, you should dismantle the connection and inspect the thread. You need to go through the coils with the tip of a knife or an awl; this method will allow you to get rid of accumulated debris. Before winding the tape, use a wire brush to clean the coils until you see a shine.

Dear master! Is it possible to use penofol instead of tow, flax, and jute in the construction of a house made of timber? At first glance, the advantages are obvious. Penofol is elastic, waterproof, windproof, good insulation, easy to use. And why not use it as a spacer between the beams? And what are the contraindications? Thank you in advance.

Evgeny Vladimirovich, Pereslavl district, Krasnogor village.

Hello, Evgeny Vladimirovich from Krasnogor!

Penofol is an insulation material made from two main components, namely polyethylene foam and aluminum foil. Whatever type, type or brand it is.

Polyethylene foam is not natural material and, despite the almost unanimous statements of manufacturers and sellers about its complete environmental harmlessness, in my opinion, it is not.

As an example, I always cite the well-known dust (DDT), full nameethane, which at one time was advertised as completely harmless. I remember how they generously sprinkled clothes in closets to prevent moths, how they diluted water and then watered the greens in the beds in order to destroy all sorts of bad agricultural pests. In short, it was a panacea for all, or almost all, troubles and misfortunes.

A little over fifty years have passed and I don’t remember that this substance was used so widely anywhere. It is so harmful to the human body and capable of accumulating in it that it is used only in the most extreme cases to combat mass epidemics. When “I don’t care about fat, I wish I could live.”

Neither you, nor I, nor anyone else can say with 100% certainty in about twenty years or so that polytilene, which does not completely decompose during the entire time it was produced, does not have bad properties that are not currently known.

I am not a supporter of rejecting technical progress when using ever newer materials in construction, but I still give preference to the old ones, tested for many decades, or even hundreds of years.

At the right technology construction tow (linen, jute, hemp) the most durable and environmentally friendly cushioning material - insulation between wooden crowns in residential construction. At the same time, they must be completely dry (as well as the wood of logs, beams, etc.), and with outside, on the street side, ideally should be covered with drying oil or other types of coatings that protect the insulation from absorbing atmospheric moisture.

Yes, sometimes it is used as insulation and when coven-makers do not have normal tow on hand. But I am not aware of any cases of using penofol to fill the inter-crown space.

In my opinion, this is also due to another factor. Have you noticed that in both stone and wooden houses, the waterproofing layer is placed only on the base of the foundation. That is, further from this waterproofing layer there are solid walls, creating an array. Why is this done? Then, even with local, concentrated ingress of excess moisture onto any section of the wall, this moisture is not retained in one place, but is redistributed in all directions. And over time, this moisture evaporates not from a small, but from a larger area. As a result, there is no rotting of the wood and destruction of the masonry.

If you put penofol, then layers of aluminum foil through each crown will not allow moisture to penetrate onto one log (or wooden beam), to others and be redistributed with faster further drying from large area surfaces. With all the ensuing consequences.

But this is more from the realm of theory.

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