IN household Often a circular saw is not enough, especially if you start major renovation or construction. Not everyone can afford industrial products - they are too expensive. But you can make a circular saw yourself, using materials that are available in the household.
Design - main components, their purpose
A do-it-yourself stationary circular saw is created with advancement in several possible directions:
- adaptation of existing hand tools using the motor and circular saw for new possibilities;
- improvement of industrial products to expand functionality;
- assembly of individual parts, manufactured mainly in-house.
Stationary circular saw includes several main components: table, shaft, motor and some others, the characteristics of which are not so important.
The table is used for fastening woodworking mechanisms. It can be assembled entirely from metal, which is preferable, especially for machines with a motor high power. They are also made from wood good tables for circular. But it is necessary to take into account that the tabletop should be covered with a sheet of metal, otherwise the wood will soon wear out. Tables must be very rigid and stable, capable of withstanding considerable load during work. The surface is made perfectly flat; protective shields must be installed above the rotating parts.
For homemade circular the engine fits well washing machine. Portable tools are less suitable: their commutator motors are designed only for short-term work. They have very high speeds, low efficiency, and are afraid of clogging. You can use a three-phase electric motor, but if the household does not have 380 V, you will need to purchase capacitors to make it work on 220 V.
The most important component is the shaft. Use a ready-made one, if available, or machine it from round metal. The work on the lathe is performed in one setup, then the assembly with the working parts is checked for centering. Even minimal runout is unacceptable, otherwise during work it will become stronger, at which it is unacceptable to work. Seats are provided on the shaft: for a circular saw and for pulleys on the other side. You can also make grooves for planing knives.
Main parameters - calculation of power, speed, gear
Characteristics circular saw, engine and maximum thickness lumber that can be cut are interconnected. The maximum speed for which it is designed is indicated on the purchased circular disk. The number of revolutions transmitted by the engine to the shaft should be less. The engine power affects the maximum permissible saw tooth diameter. The diameter must be at least three times the thickness of the material, otherwise sawing will be difficult. It is believed that to cut materials 100 mm thick, you need a motor of at least 1 kW of power.
The transmission is made only by a V-belt - if foreign objects get under the saw, the material jams, the belt slips on the pulleys. Injuries in such cases are practically eliminated. It is important to choose the right gear ratio. We take into account two indicators: engine speed and the maximum permissible speed of the circular saw. We calculate the required pulley diameters. A pulley with a large diameter is installed on the engine, and a smaller one on the circular shaft to increase the number of revolutions.
The revolutions of the shaft with a circular saw are as many times greater than the engine revolutions as the diameter of its pulley is smaller than the diameter of the pulley on the engine.
Woodworking machine - a capital product for the home
To work with wood in large volumes, it is better to have a machine that allows you to cut the material, plan it, and select a quarter. A fairly powerful electric motor and a rigid table are required. We present a structure made of steel angle and sheet steel. It provides a cutting depth of 60 mm; you can plan boards 200 mm wide. Applicable three phase motor 1.1 kW, 2700 rpm. To connect to 220 V, capacitors are required.
1 – machine frame; 2 – panel; 3 – starter; 4 – device for height adjustment; 5.7 – work table of two halves; 6 – base; 8 – engine; 9 – platform; 10 – M10 studs; eleven - circular disk; 12 – shaft; 13 – stops of the lifting mechanism; 14 – driven pulley; 15 – belt; 16 – drive pulley; 17 – switch.
The work table has dimensions of 700×300 mm. In the drawing we see that the height of the entire structure is 350 mm. The height is insufficient for comfortable work, the circular will have to be installed on an additional platform; it weighs only 35 kg. You can increase the length and width, increase the height up to 1200 mm. We adjust the remaining sizes to fit them, but design features remain unchanged.
First we make the bed frame from steel corners 25x25 mm. If we are not going to increase the height, we make another similar lower frame. For a frame with a higher height, first we weld four legs from the same corners to the upper frame, and then we tie them at a height of 15–20 cm from the bottom. The lower frame has grooves for the engine platform locking bolts. Two studs are welded to the back side of the platform, which go into the holes on the back of the lower frame. By tightening the studs, we tighten the belts, then we lock the platform by tightening the nuts on the studs that go into the grooves.
To adjust the height of the table in relation to the saw, we use a simple lifting mechanism. It consists of racks, in the upper part of which we cut grooves at an angle of 45°. A total of eight racks are needed - four on each side. We weld them to the frame with grooves located in a mirror image. We attach cross members to the outer posts. We drill holes in the middle of each of them and weld nuts. Threaded shafts will move along them to regulate the lift.
Their ends rest against racks welded to frames assembled from 75x50 mm corners. We weld studs into them on the side opposite the grooves for the adjustment mechanism. The table consists of two equal halves, attached to the drawers with bolts with countersunk heads.The adjustment mechanism works like this:
- loosen the nuts on the racks;
- we turn the screw, which presses on the stop, raising or lowering the table;
- tighten the stud nuts;
- perform a similar adjustment for the second half work surface.
The design can be simplified without installing an adjusting shaft. Raise and lower the table manually. If you assemble the table not from two halves, but from one piece, you will only need four racks for the lifting mechanism.
Hand-held circular saw - turning into a stationary one
It’s easy to make a stationary one from a hand-held circular saw, expanding its capabilities. The first thing you need is a table. Comfortable material Finnish plywood will serve, which, unlike ordinary plywood, is laminated - the workpieces glide well over the surface during processing. It is thick enough to withstand a lot of weight, moisture resistant, and easy to process. You can use ordinary 20 mm plywood, but you just need to paint it, or better yet, cover it with sheet steel or textolite.
You need to understand that the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the cover. You will need a disk large diameter so as not to reduce functionality compared to portable tool. We make the dimensions of the tabletop sufficient to ensure that the workpiece fits in width. It should be added that on a wide table you can additionally strengthen an electric plane and a jigsaw, which will make the machine universal.
Using drawings and explanations, it is not difficult to make additional accessories for a circular saw, which will expand its capabilities.
We mark a rectangle of the required dimensions on a sheet of plywood, cut it out, and process the edges. We apply the sole manual circular saw to the surface and mark the attachment points with a pencil. We make a slot for the circular saw. You can slightly deepen the attachment point using a milling cutter, but not more than 10 mm, so as not to weaken the tabletop. This manufacturing method will allow you to bring the cutting depth closer to that indicated in the circular saw’s passport.
From the boards we make a frame (tsars), which we install from below to strengthen the structure. We fasten four boards into a box, glue them to the tabletop, securing them with clamps. We screw self-tapping screws into the boards across the table. We countersink the holes for them from above so that the heads of the screws are hidden. To the kings stationary saw We fasten the legs, preferably with bolts, washers and nuts. The table should be provided with additional rigidity, so we make spacers at the bottom of the legs.
We make a limit bar, equal to the length working surface. In it we drill two grooves perpendicular to the disk, in which the bar will move and be fixed at a certain distance from the saw blade. It remains to make changes to the control system: we fix the control button in the on state with electrical tape. We install an outlet connected to the network on the drawer. We install a switch in the gap in the wire going to the saw.
Some aspects of the execution of homemade devices
No matter how well a circular machine is made, individual errors can lead to its performance being limited. This concerns, at first glance, seemingly trifles. Let's start with the bearings for the shaft. Installing conventional ones is justified if the machine is used from time to time. For homemade device With constant use, it is better to install self-aligning bearings. They consist of two rows of balls and are adjusted by tightening the clamping nut. Be sure to install a cover to protect against dust and chips.
On the working surface we apply a scale in centimeter increments. This will make woodworking much easier when determining the width of the cut. Many people neglect to install a protective shield over the disk, but in vain - treatment for chips getting into the eye or in more serious situations is more expensive.
When working with various materials It is often necessary to adjust the speed of the circular saw. Homemade design, as a rule, does not have the ability to regulate the engine speed. There is only one way out - the use of pulleys of different diameters. They are installed on the motor shaft. If you decide to order pulleys from a turner, immediately make a solid pulley with two or three different diameters.
Many people want to install sawing machine three-phase electric motor, without having 380 V. You will need capacitors designed for a minimum operating voltage of 600 V of paper or oil-paper type.
We calculate the capacitance of the capacitors based on the power of the electric motor: for 1 kW - 100 µF for the working capacitor Av. We take the capacity of the starting joint twice as large. Starting device SB is a button that automatically returns to its original position. Startup is simple: turn on SQ, press SB for a couple of seconds. After starting, the button is released, as soon as the engine picks up speed, you can cut.
A circular saw is one of the main woodworking machines. Almost any work with solid wood, chipboard, MDF, fiberboard, etc. begins with it. With experience and skills, a circular saw can replace many other machines, which makes it the most necessary and useful tool for home or in the country.
At the same time, purchasing a ready-made machine often turns out to be either too expensive, or the offered models are not satisfactory in some respects. Therefore, the decision is often made to make a circular saw yourself. Its structure is quite simple, from finished parts All that is required is an electric motor; the most problematic element is the shaft. Let's consider the question in more detail.
General structure of a circular saw
A simple (not combined) machine is a table with a segment of a saw blade protruding from the surface. The saw itself is mounted on a drive shaft supported by bearings at two points. The hubs for the bearings are through, the shaft comes out of them on both sides - the drive pulley is installed on one side, the drive pulley is installed on the other saw blade. Thus, the main element that actually forms a circular saw is the working shaft. All other elements are the table, stretching device, a ruler-stop for setting the width of the cut - they are much simpler and can easily be redone if any errors or inconsistencies are discovered.
How to make a circular saw shaft with your own hands
We’ll talk further about how to make a circular saw shaft with your own hands. Before starting work we will need lathe or a familiar turner (optionally, a specialized organization or company where you can place an order). The material you will need is a piece of round timber made of steel 45 or similar in quality. The diameter of the workpiece directly depends on the expected dimensions homemade shaft, more precisely - from the size saw blades which are supposed to be used. Diameter mounting hole The saw has several standard sizes:
- 16 mm.
- 20 mm.
- 22 mm.
- 30 mm.
- 32 mm.
- 50 mm.
The indicated dimensions determine the choice of working shaft diameter. The most common of them can be considered 32 mm, since this size has big number discs with different outer diameters. Working with a circular saw involves sawing a variety of materials, sometimes large thickness, and the size of the disc's departure from the table plane can play a role important role. You can make a thinner shaft and install disks of a different mounting diameter using adapters, but this should only be done within reasonable limits, and it is hardly worth making a machine only for small jobs. Considering the variety of disks available for this size, the choice is obvious.
- The disk is installed between two flanges and is clamped with a nut screwed onto a thread cut at the end of the working part of the shaft.
Important! The thread should be left-handed so that at the moment of the starting jerk the nut is tightened and not unscrewed.
- The mounting diameters for the bearings are selected based on those available, and the bearings will require hubs with mounting pads.
- The middle part of the shaft is the section with largest diameter. If it turns out to be too large, then at the moment of start the shaft, which has high inertia, will create an increased load on the drive belt. Often this area is lightened by over-drilling, removing excess mass.
- The section of the shaft opposite the working one is intended for installing the drive pulley. The pulley itself can be used ready-made, or you can make (order) it yourself.
Important! A large number of revolutions for a circular saw is undesirable; this mode is dangerous for large-diameter disks, since the linear speed is very high and causes strong heating of the saw teeth.
For the right choice rotation speed and pulley diameter should be guided by 1000-15000 rpm as the limiting number. This value is relevant for disks with an outer diameter of 200-300 mm. For disks of smaller diameter, the values change upward.
Combined machines
For home use Combined machines are often made. In such cases, the middle part of the shaft is used as a plane, for which special grooves are milled into which clamping wedges and knives are inserted. The end of the working part is lengthened and turned into a Morse taper, onto which a drill chuck is mounted - a slotting unit is obtained for making sockets for tenons. Often, cutters are installed on the shaft and grooves are milled or edges are processed.
This use of the machine requires additional stops and clamps. It should be borne in mind that combined equipment is often not of the required quality, since some parameters of one function have to be sacrificed in favor of another. The result is often a product designed to perform many tasks, but in fact does one more or less well, and the rest - as it turns out. For quality work It’s better to make a machine that performs one task at a high level.
In conclusion, it should be recalled about the dangers of working with woodworking machines in general and with homemade equipment in particular. In the absence of experience and skills, it is better to purchase a ready-made machine or get out of the situation in some other way; the risk of serious injury is very high. If the workpiece feed to the disk is overheated or misaligned, it may be destroyed and fragments may fly away at high speed. The engine stop button should be within reach and work the first time. All safety measures must be observed so that working on the machine brings only benefit and satisfaction.
Useful video
A circular saw is a device that is used mainly in industry, but you can find people using it in private home settings. Some people try to make it themselves. The most important part here is the shaft. Most often, the shaft for the circular is made to order. To do this, you need to contact only a highly qualified turner. Fortunately, it’s not difficult to find something like this today. However, it costs similar work will be quite expensive. There are also alternative methods solutions to this problem. The easiest way is to create a shaft for a circular saw with your own hands. Of course, this requires a lathe.
It is even possible that it will be with a numeric program controlled. Will have to get some additional tool. You can't do without materials here.
Tools and materials
In order to make a circular saw shaft with your own hands, you need to provide the following tools and materials:
- Incisors for various purposes. Here you will need not only a standard tool, but also a groove cutter.
- A cylindrical shaft of appropriate dimensions, which will be made of 45 steel.
- Measuring tool. IN in this case A clear caliper may be needed. Only with its help can you take the most accurate measurements in order to get the perfect part at the end.
Basically, this is enough to make a shaft for a circular saw. In some cases, additional measuring tools may be needed.
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Important details
In the case of the shaft, it is worth using high-quality steel. We are talking about a material that has the numbers 45 in its name, of course. We are talking about steel. In your work, you must be guided by the corresponding GOST, which describes the location of the shafts and seating surfaces. On the saw blade mounting side, the clamping inner sleeve, bearings and the saw blade itself sit on one surface.
As a result of the fact that there are many parts, each of them will have its own fitting size, which is indicated in the drawing. It must be made first in accordance with the dimensions that this tool has. You will have to focus on them when creating the circular shaft. All tolerances and landings in mandatory indicated on the drawing. A caliper is used for accurate measurements. You can also prepare gauges with appropriate sizes in advance. In private home conditions, it is quite difficult to find them, so often everything is limited only to a caliper.
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Manufacturing process
So, a person has everything necessary tool, a shaft with a certain diameter, as well as a drawing. First you need to fix the part in the lathe. Regardless of its type, double-sided fastening is used. Any lathe has a spindle. The shaft is secured here using special clamps. On the other side is the tailstock. She presses the material from behind. Now you can proceed to rough processing.
For these purposes, a flow cutter is used. For roughing, rough removal is used, so no special requirements are required for the tool. certain requirements. The most important thing is that it is sharpened. Otherwise, burrs may form on the workpiece, and this is unacceptable. The machine is simply started and processing is carried out according to the largest diameter.
You need to leave a small allowance.
It will be needed for finishing with a cutter.
Now you can move on to processing other surfaces. Because seats quite a lot, each of them will be processed according to the drawing. It is worth working at high speeds so that the surface is as high quality and smooth as possible.
Once roughing is completed, you can move on to finishing turning. An appropriate cutter is also used for these purposes. All allowances that remained previously will have to be removed. Here you should definitely focus on the drawing dimensions. They are processed. It is advisable to check the size after each finishing pass to ensure that the final product is truly correct.
Next comes the groove cutter. It is used for turning special grooves for keys. There will be several of them here. They will allow you to attach a wide variety of parts to the shaft. It is necessary to cut in accordance with the dimensions shown in the drawing. After the work is completed, you can once again check all available dimensions.
If necessary, you can remove the shaft and then try to fit the bearing and other parts that will be used onto it. If everything is fastened normally, then we can safely state that the work was carried out correctly, and, therefore, the circular shaft is ready for use. Of course, you can use additional sandpaper to get a cleaner surface.
To process the workpiece with its help, the latter is fixed again in its position. Now take a leaf sandpaper, which is carried along the shaft. In this case, the clamped workpiece should rotate. You should use non-coarse sandpaper to get mirror shine, after this the shaft can be removed from the machine. It is completely ready for installation on a circular machine. Of course, you will have to do a number of manipulations with other blanks so that they all fit perfectly on it.
In fact, the work is not difficult, but it is still better to turn to professionals, especially since not every person has a lathe at his disposal. Better job to produce on a machine with numerical control, so it is noticeably simplified.
Thus, the work is completed, which means we can sum up some of its results. Now everyone knows how. In fact, everything that was described above consists of processing a simple shaft.
In some cases, it can be obtained from a rod of the appropriate diameter. All remnants of the workpiece are subsequently removed. They can simply be sawed off using a hacksaw. You can also use another tool. For example, a grinder with an appropriate circle that is capable of cutting metal is ideal for these purposes. It all depends on what a person has available in his workshop.
Circular saw shaft and bearing assembly
Let's look at the picture, which shows a cross-section of the shaft assembly
Shaft (1)
bearing housing (2)
bearings (3)
internal saw blade clamping sleeve (4)
external saw blade clamping sleeve (5)
clamping nut (6)
driven shaft pulley (7)
clamping nut, lock washer, key (8)
Sharpened from steel 45. The manufacture of the shaft can only be entrusted to highly qualified specialists, where prerequisite is, strict adherence technical requirements to the seating surfaces of shafts and housings along. On the saw blade mounting side, the following are mounted on the same diameter: a bearing; clamping inner sleeve; saw blade; clamping outer sleeve, so take this into account when you add tolerances and fits to the working drawings.
BEARING CASE
It is sharpened from steel 20. M6 threads are cut into the four mounting holes. Before pressing the bearings, fill the housing with Li-tol-24 lubricant.
BEARINGS
1204 ball radial double row spherical. They have two rows of balls. The inner surface has a curved shape. Covers can be provided in the bearing housing to protect them from dust and wood shavings. But this decision, in general, will significantly complicate the design and increase its dimensions, therefore, we will not use it.
INNER CLAMPING BUSH
Made from steel 45
EXTERNAL CLAMPING BUSH
Made from steel 45
CLAMP NUT
CLAMP NUT
The M16 round spline nut in accordance with GOST 11871-88 clamps the driven pulley.
LOCK WASHER
Multi-claw (version 2), serves to fix the nut relative to the shaft and does not allow it to unscrew during rotation.
KEY
Keyed connection with parallel keys, tolerances and fits