Photography is of considerable importance in our life - because what, if not photography, reminds us of some of the memorable moments of our lives captured on it?..
A photograph is a bright and wonderful reminder of a vacation or weekend spent, especially if it happened in the lap of natural beauty...
The wooden photo frame offered below can be an excellent addition and a worthy frame for your photographs of this kind.
It can be an interesting and useful gift for an experienced tourist, an avid fisherman or hunter, as well as decorate the interior of your home. wooden house or baths (see photos 1, 2 and 3) .
Using very inexpensive tools and devices, following the steps described below step-by-step technology, you can make a similar thing for your home from a ubiquitous material - branches.
First you need to select the material - since it is distributed almost everywhere, this should not be a problem.
Preferences are such that it is more desirable to select healthy hardwood branches with bark, cut down in winter. They should be moderately even - but it is better if they have a slight curvature. The diameter of the branches should be approximately 4-5 cm and they should have well-preserved bark. Moreover, it is desirable that the bark is not smooth, and even better if there are also pieces of moss or lichen on it - in this case the frame will be more expressive.
We cut the found branches into pieces of approximately 40-50 cm and dry them for some time (about a month) in a warm room.
After some drying, you can start working. We cut the blanks to length, with an allowance of 2-3 cm. Since the photo has dimensions of 20*30 cm, we cut the long blanks at approximately 46 cm (30 cm length of the photo, 10 cm for two joints, and 6 cm for two tails) , and short ones - about 36 cm (same as the previous size, minus 10 cm). Measure the required length with a tape measure and cut it off hand hacksaw woodworking (see photos 4 and 5) .
Next, we create planes on the blanks using a universal woodworking machine, or using manual electric planer (see photos 6 and 7) . The thickness of the workpieces should be approximately the same.
Of course, when working on a machine and with power tools, you should not forget about safety regulations .
After pre-treatment, you need to let the workpieces sit for a while and dry, if necessary. After a few days of exposure, we check the evenness of the planes - if necessary, level them again.
Now let's start making connections. The connection is simple - half a tree, and in this case it does not require special precision and accuracy.
First, we make markings - place a sheet of paper or thick cardboard measuring 20*30 cm on the laid out blanks and mark the location of the cutouts on lower blanks (see photos 8 and 9) .
Using a wood hacksaw, follow the markings and make several transverse cuts half the thickness of the workpiece. (see photos 10 and 11).
Prices for wood hacksaws
wood hacksaw
Now with a sharp chisel using light blows of a mallet we cut off the excess material (see photos 12 and 13) .
Similarly, we mark and make cutouts on the remaining two blanks and remove excess material with a chisel (see photos 14 and 15) .
As a result of these simple operations, four blanks are obtained with cutouts for a half-tree cross connection. (see photo 16) .
On a flat plane, lay out the workpieces in the same order as during marking and fasten them at the joints using wood screws (see photos 17 and 18) .
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The planes of the workpieces after fastening must be in the same plane - if this is not the case, then we adjust the joints with a chisel (see photo 19) .
Now you need to inside Using the resulting structure, cut a recess for inserting glass. To begin, mark the contours of the future recess using a sheet of paper and outline its boundaries with a pencil along a ruler, adding 2-3 mm on each side (see photos 20 and 21) .
Setting up a manual milling machine - installing it in a collet slot cutter and set the milling depth equal to the thickness of the glass and photograph (see photo 22) .
Using a square, set the stop for smooth milling and secure it with self-tapping screws (see photos 23 and 24) .
Prices for chisels
chisel
Pressing the sole of the milling machine against the stop, carefully mill out the recesses on all four workpieces (see photo 25) .
We trim corners and burrs with a sharp chisel (see photos 26 and 27) .
After this coarse sandpaper sand off the remaining pile and uncut fibers (see photo 28)
We cut off the “tails” with a hacksaw, making them approximately the same length 3-4 cm (see photo 29) .
Using an electric plane or a sharp chisel, we form beautiful ends of the “tails” at the ends (see photos 30 and 31).
We cut off the remaining burrs and fibers with a sharp chisel and sand the ends with sandpaper (see photo 32).
From jute twine (with coarse fibers) we cut four pieces of 8-9 meters each (see photo 33) and using an electric drill we twist them into cords approximately 1.5 m long (fold in half, fasten one end, fasten the other into the chuck of an electric drill, twist into a double cord. Disconnect both ends and the cord itself will twist into a quadruple.) (see photo 33 and photo 34).
Using a hacksaw and chisel, cut out indentations for the cord approximately 1 cm wide from the inside of the joints (see photos 35, 36 and 37) .
And after that we begin to tightly tie the connection with a cord, carefully ensuring that the cord passes exactly in the place where the recesses are cut (see photos 38 and 39) .
We tuck the end of the cord into an already wound cord or secure it with a stapler (see photos 40 and 41) .
The result is four beautifully designed corner connections (see photos 42 and 43).
Now you need to cut out the back wall, which will hold the glass and photograph in place in the recess.
Using a ruler, measure the required length and width of the wall - it should cover the recess, plus you need to add 15 mm on each side to attach the back wall to back side framework. After this, we cut out a rectangle from hardboard or thin plywood according to these dimensions. (see photos 44, 45 and 46) .
Roulette prices
We mark the locations of the holes for fastening, drill them with a drill with a diameter of 3 mm and countersink them with a drill with a diameter of 8 mm for the screw heads (see photos 47 and 48) .
By using roller glass cutter cut out the glass of the required size - it should be 2-3 mm smaller sizes a recess cut for it. To avoid cutting yourself in the future, sand the sharp edges with fine-grained sandpaper secured in the block. (see photos 49 and 50) .
We apply a protective and decorative coating - wood oil or varnish - to the wooden parts of the frame and let it sit for about a day until it dries completely. This coating will make the frame brighter and more expressive. (see photos 51 and 52).
After the protective and decorative coating has dried, insert the glass and photograph into the recess intended for them. (see photos 53 and 54) .
Using small self-tapping screws, screw the back wall to the frame. Using a piece of twine tied to two small screws, we make fastenings for hanging on the wall. (see photos 55 and 56) .
And after that, the finished frame can be hung on the wall.
Contemporary artists often sell paintings without frames. They believe that a person has the right to choose which frame to use, and whether it is necessary at all. You can buy ready-made picture frames in specialized stores, but they are certain size. And if the canvas does not correspond to them, then you will have to somehow get out of the situation. Best option- do everything yourself, because it’s not difficult. This way a person will receive a decent frame for a picture of the required size, as well as a design that, in his opinion, suits him perfectly.
Now we will describe in detail how to make a picture frame with your own hands from wood. This classic material. The first frames began to be made from it back when art was just emerging. Therefore, let's start with it.
Selection and quality of material
First you need to select the slats. The wood for their production is not cured in a certain way, so in places where there are knots, cracks and unevenness appear when the material subsequently dries out. It is for this reason that you need to carefully select material that does not have flaws. However, if in the design of the frame you need to show the structure of the wood fibers, then it is better to make the slats for the baguette yourself. This type of production of picture frames requires seasoned wood, only the knots in it do not have cracks, because it was dried using a special technology for a year.
How to create a profile for a frame
To turn the slats into a wooden baguette, from which the frames will be made, use milling machine. Curly cutters are sold especially for it, which are capable of cutting any recesses and creating the necessary pattern on the surface. The product can also be profiled hand tools. For this purpose, special planes, zenzubels, and also moldings are used.
Tools for creating corners when cutting baguette
Wooden picture frames must have right angles, unless, of course, their shape is to be traditional. It is very difficult to saw a baguette and maintain the exact degrees of its angles. For this it is better to use special device, such as Miter saw. It is not cheap, but the result justifies the money. But still, how to make a picture frame with your own hands without special machine? If engaging in such production is not part of your plans, then buying such an expensive tool is not advisable. Therefore, it is better to purchase a miter box for sawing baguette. If you still can’t cut out the corners perfectly, you can always refine them using sandpaper. It will allow you to carefully sharpen the corner so that everything fits together.
Gluing the frame and the tools needed for it
Now the manufactured frame parts need to be glued together. Titebond II glue is ideal for this; it has been tested by many woodworkers. It is very important to clamp all parts of the frame tightly. For this they use special tool- tape clamps. They allow you to tighten all parts of the frame evenly and tightly and maintain perfectly right angles. This simple device easy to use, even if the picture frame is made from plinth. And it doesn’t matter whether it’s plastic, foam or wood. The most important thing is to cut it out initially straight corners. You can fasten the frame without glue; for this you can use metal corners, which are driven into the connection. However, such fastening is not as reliable as gluing.
Sanding the finished product
When the glue dries, you need to sand the entire surface of the frame to give it a smooth and beautiful view. To do this, use the finest sandpaper, the base of which is fabric. It is better to clean in small sections - this makes it easier to penetrate into the corners and profile relief.
Frame Surface Finish
We understood in detail how to make a picture frame with our own hands, and now as for its decoration and covering protective composition. For this purpose, stain and varnish are used. If you need to achieve dark color, covered with stain and then varnish. When they want to leave the natural color of the wood, they take clear nail polish- then all the fibers seem to stand out a little, creating a great look. If you want to add color to the frame, for example, make the wood pinkish, then you can add a little potassium permanganate to the varnish. All compounds that are applied must be highest quality. If you take cheap ones, you can easily damage the frame. If everything is applied to the surface using a spray gun or airbrush, then the risk of damage to the product is reduced due to the finest spray.
Carved frames
Making picture frames with carved shapes will require special tools. Such work cannot be automated, so practical skills in wood carving are required. Craftsmen use a variety of cutters and chisels for this craft. various forms and sizes. This is very fine work, where not only skills are needed, but also an understanding of the structure of wood fibers. Therefore, creating such a frame is much more difficult.
Creating a carved frame
First of all, the image that is going to be cut is drawn or translated on the blank. After this, it is cut out with a jigsaw. Well, then they begin the most difficult part - wood carving. This process cannot be described in words; it can only be comprehended in practice. It is better to start with simple drawings and gradually move on to more complex ones. Now about the tree. For carving, only seasoned material from soft rocks (for example, linden) is taken. All other processes are identical to the above.
The presented picture frames, the photo of which clearly displays all types of their coatings, as well as the main shapes, look simply amazing. The main thing is to want and try.
We fully understand how to make a picture frame with our own hands, now all that remains is to assemble all its parts. To do this, you need to put the frame front side onto a clean surface and insert everything in the following order:
- glass;
- painting;
- piece of cardboard.
After this, you need to secure everything with nails driven into the frame. This is quite a responsible process, so it is worth dwelling on it in detail. To successfully fix a picture in a frame, you need to be careful and careful. After all, making picture frames is quite labor-intensive process, not to mention painting canvases, so you need to do everything perfectly.
We attach the nail to the frame with light blows. It should press the cardboard, picture and glass tightly enough. Then a ruler is slipped under this baited nail. Place the head of the hammer on top and, carefully sliding along the surface, make blows until the nail is driven deep enough so that it can hold everything tightly. In this way, all the nails that are necessary to tightly hold all parts of the picture are driven in.
In this article, we examined in detail how to make a picture frame with your own hands and assemble it. All that remains is to do everything in a practical way and get what you want.
Cool fashionable photo frames are an integral element of any interior. DIY photo frames can not only become a unique accessory for your home, but also serve as an excellent gift for family and friends.
In this post the site made a selection of 14 cool ideas how to make a photo frame with your own hands from simple materials, many of which are even at hand.
1. Frame made of dry twigs
This option is suitable for creativity with children; they will willingly help you first collect sticks in the forest, and then happily break them into short pieces.
What you will need: wide-brimmed frame, glue gun, sticks
2. Frame from an old rustic window frame
3. Photo frame from an old book
Extraordinary frame made of old book is a great example of a photo frame made from materials that are on hand. Suitable for a small but very sweet photo.
4. Frames made from cardboard tubes and toilet paper rolls
This creative panel is suitable for some kind of photo story, for example, about your last trip.
What you will need: bushings from toilet paper and any other cardboard tubes of different diameters, scissors, glue, paper knife, pencil.
Step-by-step instructions in the pictures below:
5. Large panel with metal mesh
What you will need: 
How to do:
Metal mesh Attach it to the frame on the reverse side with a stapler. Use clothespins to attach the photos to the grid. 
6. Dry moss frame
A stunningly vibrant photo frame made of real moss is a sophisticated decoration for your home. 
What you will need: an old wooden photo frame, dry moss (can be ordered), glue.
How to do it: Just glue the moss around the perimeter. Decorating will take no more than 30 minutes and will bring a lot of fun :) This photo frame is suitable for a wedding gift. 
7. Photo frame from old magazines
For this frame, you will definitely have everything at hand. All you need: old magazines, the frame you want to decorate, glue (it’s convenient to use a glue gun).
Step-by-step instructions in the pictures below:
8. Photo frame made of thick sticks
9. Photo frames made from popsicle sticks
These simple and cute frames are perfect for family and children's photos. In this example, the popsicle sticks are supposed to be decorated with colorful tapes, and we suggest painting them by hand. 
And here is an even simpler version of the frame using sticks. 
10. Brutal photo frame made of cement
What you will need: cement, a container for mixing cement, cardboard or a box of porridge/cereals, etc., frame fasteners, glue, a paper knife, tape, small pieces of wood (you can cut a branch).
Detailed step by step instructions you will find in the pictures below:
If you want to do wooden frame with your own hands, you can explore several manufacturing options and choose the appropriate one. At first glance, it is easier and faster to buy a ready-made wooden frame in a store, but in fact it will not be difficult to make such a product, and of the required dimensions (even non-standard ones), and you can decorate the frame to your liking. If you have a large collection of photographs at home that you plan to hang on the wall, you will need a lot of frames, and this will cost money. The way out of the situation would be self-production framework
Wooden frames can be made using simple tools or using a woodworking machine. The finished frame can be decorated with skillful carvings or a beautiful ornament can be burned out. Such products can be done by craftsmen, but it is better for beginners to try their skills on the example of a simple wooden frame made of smooth planks or slats.
Simple wooden frame
To make such a frame you will need: smooth wooden planks, a ruler or tape measure, a saw, a miter box, a plane if necessary, a simple pencil, staples for a stapler, thick cardboard or a piece of fiberboard, metal clamps, twine, sanding paper, paint, varnish and decorative elements to decorate the frame.
The procedure for making a wooden frame
- Estimate the dimensions of the frame and select transverse and longitudinal wooden planks. You can cut a wooden strip into four elements. All parts of the future frame should be as smooth as possible, so if necessary, they can be planed and then treated with sanding paper.
- Saw off the ends of the wooden planks at an angle of 45 degrees. To ensure that the corners are even and the product comes out neat, it is better to use a special device - a miter box with suitable connectors.
- The ends of the planks are greased with PVA glue and pressed tightly at an angle of 90 degrees. To fix the corners, the frame should be tied tightly with twine, making sure that the corners do not move. Can be used to secure the corners of half staples from a stapler. They are cut into two L-shaped halves. Next, these corners are inserted into the middle of the cuts at the ends wooden slats, and then the two sides of the frame are connected.
- The PVA glue hardens for 15-20 minutes, and after that the frame is again treated with sandpaper and coated with paint or varnish. You can use stain or potassium permanganate, which also gives wooden products beautiful brown shade.
- The reverse side of the frame is cut out of thick cardboard or a piece of fiberboard. If the design is not intended to be collapsible, then you can glue the back side to the frame with glue, and for a collapsible frame, use special metal clips.
Wooden frame with passe-partout
This frame is well suited for decorating photographs, as it will emphasize the expressiveness of both color and black and white photographs. Before you start making a frame, you need to carefully consider not only the size of the frame, but also its pattern, as well as the color of the mat.
This decorative frame is made of wooden planks and thick cardboard (for passe-partout). Profiles for a wooden frame can be very different - smooth, with carvings or patterns; the type of passe-partout also varies - thickness, color of cardboard, its pattern. In this regard, you can choose frame details that will be in harmony not only with the photograph or painting itself, but also with the entire interior of the room. This is especially true if you plan to hang several paintings - they must be combined with each other. For example, light wooden frames look good on dark walls or richly colored surfaces. Accordingly on light walls You can hang paintings and photographs in dark frames.
How to make a frame with a passe-partout
Ever been into arts and crafts? It doesn’t matter, because learning to do something simple with your own hands is not only useful, but also pleasant. Let's try to make a beautiful wooden photo frame. After all, you always want to surround yourself with bright memories of your vacation or the smiles of loved ones.
How to make a photo frame with your own hands at home? Yes, very simple :) You will need very little: a knife, an awl, a saw, a hammer, a small drill. Almost every family has all this. So you can get started
Before this, however, it is worth visiting the forest. There you will find the roots of various bushes and trees, branches, cones, acorns, from which you will then make real works of art.
If you get creative, almost every root can make original craft. Of course, it is impossible to give specific advice on what to make from this root. After all, in it every person will see original item, on the production of which he will work. Involve your children, thanks to children's imagination you can make such extraordinary figures that everyone will simply gasp.
Now let's start making such a useful thing as a photo frame. It can also be a frame for interior decoration. You can make a completely new one or restore an old one using natural materials.
First, we clean it of dust and varnish. We polish. After this, we prepare branches and cones, tree bark. The frame is opened with glue, and the most various materials. Some are placed symmetrically, others asymmetrically. It all depends on your imagination and the imagination of the child.
It is better if the entire surface is covered. Next, everything needs to be varnished and your joint creation can be mounted on the wall. The photo shows one example of design old frame. This is not a standard; each master will make his own unique work.
While collecting natural material, teach your child to use roots and branches collected from cut trees. You cannot break growing trees, causing irreparable harm to your native nature.
Thus, in a short joint production of crafts, several useful things will be combined at once. educational processes, which will help your child become a worthy citizen of his homeland. He will gain tool skills and a lesson. careful attitude to the surrounding nature.
How to make a photo frame
When you take good pictures, you want to print them out and hang them on the wall. But as always there is a problem with photo frames.
Those that are on sale are not always suitable in size and color to implement your idea. There is only one thing left to do - make a photo frame yourself.
Moreover, it is very simple and you can get by with a minimum of tools. First we need to find wooden planks from which we will make the frame.
For this I usually use small shaped or rectangular glazing beads, which are sold at construction markets. Next you need to decide on the shape of the corners, usually there are two options - 45 degrees and 90.
The first option looks more beautiful on frames covered with or without a transparent coating. I prefer the second option with black painting. Next, we saw off the four sides of the future frame and adjust the corners, especially if we sawed off at 45 degrees. When the frame is roughly fitted, you should level the slats using fine sandpaper or a small plane.
There are several ways to fasten the planks together. The easiest way is to glue them together with strong enough glue. For this you can use epoxy resin or transparent “Moment”. A more reliable connection would be to glue and hammer in staples from a stapler big size. This connection will suffice in the vast majority of cases. 
If you need to make a large photo frame, then you can make the corners from thick tin or aluminum, in which case you can attach them with small screws.
I make the smallest frames even simpler - the planks themselves and the photograph are glued to a thick cardboard backing, this is enough for the entire structure to hold firmly.
You don’t have to limit yourself to the usual materials for your frames.
I've seen frames made from barbecue skewers, cut out of liter beer cans, just an outline smeared with glue and sprinkled with sand and shells.
Using your imagination, you can even make a three-dimensional frame - in the form of, say, a window. To do this, you need to make a copy of this window frame and insert a photo instead of the background; if you choose the photo well, you can achieve an amazing effect.
Wooden or what can be made from scraps of boards
In any carpentry workshop, be it home or large production, there are always a lot of different scraps. Of course, you don’t mind throwing away the defective ones, but you want to use the ones that are more or less suitable. I have already touched on the topic of scraps on the pages of the site, these were curved and radius parts, and I decided to return to it again. Very often in the search queries for which visitors come to the site, you can find the following: what can be made from scraps? So I want to suggest a topic on how to do it simple frame for a painting or portrait with your own hands. I must say right away that what I will tell and show in this article certainly has no artistic value. The goal is not to create a work of art, but to show how you can make a simple and the right thing, durable and light, using “unliquid assets”. How to make a work of art will depend on your imagination, taste and artistic abilities. And so let's get down to business.
I was making a frame for a finished canvas 450x550mm, so the dimensions were determined in advance. The frame requires four corresponding slats with a margin of approximately 150 mm. The first thing to do is to drive them into same size sections. This is important because the corners will be cut at an angle of 45 degrees and if the width is different, then the cut will be accordingly. As a result, we get “not right away” in the corners. You can, of course, connect the corners not at 45, but at the end-edge joint, whichever is convenient for you. In this case, the width of the pillars and jumpers may be different. Using any available tool, we make the slats the same in thickness and width. Next, mark the dimensions of the future frame on the slats. When marking, you need to make indentations from the edges, since we will be filing the corners with outside traits. Since I had a canvas, I started from internal dimensions frames, hence the markings. After marking, the task is to saw off as accurately as possible. There are many ways good hacksaw and miter box, cross-cutting machine, circular saw with a device for cutting corners, band-saw with the same device, and so on... The main thing is the accuracy of the cut. In addition to a precisely maintained line, you need to make a cut perpendicular to the base plane so that when connecting the parts there are no so-called “slips”. This is when one of the planes fits tightly, but there is a gap on the opposite side.
We sawed it off, let's move on. Now you need to select a quarter from the wrong side of the blanks, in order to then insert a canvas or portrait and secure it with a glazing bead. The procedure is not mandatory, you can do without a quarter, but it seemed to me that this would be more reliable in fixing the canvas. I used a horizontal slot cutter, but you can do the same manual router or a circular saw, with the option of adjusting the depth of cut. Almost all household circular saws currently produced are capable of performing this operation. Determine the size of the quarter based on what will fit into the frame. This could be a photo under glass, for example, or a mirror. In any case, there should still be room for fixation. Although, if you intend to insert something without the possibility of replacement, you can not select a quarter, but make a cut of the appropriate size and insert a mirror during the assembly process. Then it will be framed as “for life.” Window frames were once made this way.
I cut out part of the blank in order to somehow highlight the corners, this is firstly, to increase the mating area at the corners, while making the frame visually less massive, this is secondly. Your imagination may go further than mine.
The next stage is to ensure maximum joint strength in the corners. I had a small picture in a factory frame and when it fell, it shattered into five pieces. It turns out the corners were fastened on the wrong side with brackets from construction stapler, two per corner, that’s it! Let's learn a lesson and not repeat the mistakes of others. Let's connect the corner to a tenon; this, together with good wood glue, will provide sufficient strength. Select a groove on the end sections. How it will be depends on the thickness of your workpieces. I just made the cuts with a regular disc from circular saw. I got a cutting width of 4 mm and a depth of 12 mm. The cross section of my blanks is 45x18 mm. A spike of this size will be quite sufficient. Having made the cuts, you need to make a tenon. I took a strip of suitable width and passed it through a thicknesser to get required thickness. This can be done using a regular jointer, or even an electric plane, but keep in mind that the tenon must fit tightly and at the same time without excessive force. If you have a thickness planer, but it does not allow you to plan such thin slats (often minimum size 5-6 mm.), place the strip on a pre-planed board and pass it through the bag. This way you can plan even veneer. 
Carefully adjust the tenon to the groove, ensuring maximum density in both the thickness and width of the tenon. The fibers must be directed perpendicular to end cut. Once adjusted, you can paste it in. If you plan to insert a mirror, then the inner edges of the frame must first be rolled with a milling cutter (if you want to do this at all). I did this on the assembled one, so internal corners got rounded. If you pass the workpiece disassembled with a cutter, the angle will naturally be right.
When all the corners have been collected, you can somehow process the edges. If you don’t want to use a router for this, then at least just go over them a little with sandpaper so as not to dull them too much. In general, it is not recommended to leave sharp corners, especially on soft wood. After finishing, there may be unpleasant surprises in the form of small but clearly visible chips. I rolled the inner edges with an edge cutter to the depth allowed by a quarter, and the outer edges with the same cutter, only with a larger diameter and milling depth.
Now you can safely move on to sanding, and then to finishing. You know better what it will be like. I limited myself to stain and semi-matte varnish (2x3 layers, both polyurethane materials). And finally, insert what you planned into the frame and secure it well. If you don’t want to insert a bead, you can simply cut small wedges from tin and press them in, thereby securing the object. This is appropriate if you are inserting something hard. In my case, it was also necessary to provide some tension in the material; the glazing bead made it possible to do this.
Processed