Make your own brick oven with us. Layout and laying of brick kilns

A brick stove in a private home or country house can always perform several functions, for example, heating and cooking. But most often, the construction of a brick stove is carried out for one purpose - to constantly maintain heat in the house. In order for the heating of the room to be carried out efficiently (regardless of its size), and fuel consumption to remain moderate, you should know not only design features brick ovens, but also correct order its buildings. Also Special attention should be given to choosing building material. You can learn more about how to build a simple brick oven with your own hands below.

It is necessary to accurately distinguish stoves according to the principle of use, which are divided into:

Heating stoves made of red brick. They are used most often, since they can be used to heat up to 100 m2 of space. The oven dimensions can be quite large.

Heating stove

Cooking ovens. They are used exclusively for cooking, of course, while spreading a certain heat around.
Combined brick version. This brick oven can be used for both cooking and heating. Very convenient, for example, at the dacha or in a country house.

Example of a combination oven

Fireplace options. Brick stove-fireplaces are not widely used, but some owners try to give old stoves the appearance of a fireplace, saving space. Used for space heating or as decorative option source of fire.

Fireplace version of a brick stove

To find out the basic structural elements and the dimensions of a red brick stove; for example, you should take the most popular option - a combined one (a hob and a brick stove for heating a house or cottage).

Structure of a combined brick oven:

Firebox. This is the place in the Russian stove where fuel combustion occurs. Since the temperature in this place is constantly high, materials should be selected accordingly.
Blower. A free cavity, which is laid out of brick directly under the firebox. The main function is the accumulation of ash and small unburned residues. Air also enters the firebox through the ash pan, which improves the quality of fuel combustion.
Channels for removing smoke from the oven. One of the most difficult parts of the oven. Passing through the channels, combustion products give off some of the heat to the brick, which subsequently heats the room.
Chimney. Releases exhaust gases into the atmosphere. It also provides the draft necessary for combustion in a Russian stove.
Tile. Located in a place above the firebox and only in cooking or combination ovens.
Holes for cleaning. For greater convenience, they are mounted in the upper part of the chimney; this place allows you to quickly and efficiently clean it.

The foundation is the basis of any structure

Like every solid building, brick stove for a house must have its own foundation. The average weight of a brick oven is 1.5 tons, no more. Therefore, it will be enough to dig a trench in the ground up to 15-20 cm deep, which is approximately equal to one bayonet of a shovel, and you can start building a stove with your own hands from brick.

Once the trench for the foundation is ready, formwork can be installed in it. The formwork is made from boards of any category with your own hands, the only condition being that there are no signs of rotting. The structure should rise 10-15 cm above the ground. According to the rules, the base of the foundation should be level with the floor, but many home owners make it a little higher. The walls of the formwork can be fastened together using knitting needles.

A sand cushion is poured into the bottom of the trench. You don't need to use a lot of sand. Cement can be poured on top of the embankment masonry mortar, which requires the following materials:

1/3 bucket of cement.
8 bayonet shovels sand.
Water (add until thick cement mortar). If you accidentally overfill water, add some cement and sand.

The first layer of cement will be 7-8 cm. Materials such as pieces of reinforcement or pre-welded reinforcing mesh. Next, the second layer is poured and the reinforcement is also laid. The reinforcement will allow you to reliably connect the entire structure and add strength to it. After pouring is completed, the solution must be given time to dry; this can take up to several weeks.

On ready foundation 2 layers of waterproofing should be laid. There is no need to secure it; the brickwork will firmly press the waterproofing to the foundation.

Laying a brick oven with your own hands, step by step

If you know the sequence of laying a simple brick oven and have the required tools and building materials at hand, the work can take several days. From the craftsmen for construction brick oven takes no more than one day.

The most important row in the kiln is the first row of bricks, which is laid as a continuous surface, without any cavities or technical holes. To set its level and correct angles should be used: square, building level and (if necessary) a tape measure. After finishing the laying of the first furnace level, it can be checked using a plumb line fixed to the ceiling in the room.

Construction of the first row brickwork

If you do not follow these recommendations and do not use a measuring tool, the result may not correspond to the desired one: a row with curved walls, disproportionate corners, an uneven surface. Then the oven will have to be moved, which will lead to additional waste of money.

It is not always necessary to have a whole kiln brick, sometimes half is enough. In order to prepare such pieces, you should use a grinder with a diamond wheel. Brick cannot be beaten with a hammer; it is too fragile and the pieces will turn out uneven.

You can see the entire process described above in more detail in the video:

The above sequence clearly shows that you can build a simple stove (which can withstand rising degrees) or a brick slab with your own hands, and this does not require complex tools or expensive building materials.

Order for a brick kiln

Preparing the mortar for laying the stove

Most often, brick is used for laying a stove (or firebox). clay mortar, which you can prepare with your own hands (for example, for a cooking stove), it does not require much time. The following materials are needed for the firebox: clay, water, sand. Before preparing the mortar for laying the stove, the clay must be soaked for at least 24 hours. After this you should add clean water, without mineral impurities. The resulting masonry mortar should be quite thick and resemble sour cream in consistency. The last ingredient is sand, it is added in small portions, constantly stirring the solution.

If a brick stove is laid according to all the rules, then the clay mortar will not be suitable for the first row (the junction of the brick and the foundation), as well as for the chimney. This is due to the accumulation of moisture during constant operation of the oven. Clay is prone to absorbing water and cracks due to sudden temperature changes. Therefore, it is better to use lime mortar for these places.

The procedure for preparing lime mortar for a brick kiln:

Materials: quicklime, water, sand. Prepare a mass consisting of water and lime, ratio 3:1. In this case, it is necessary to add water to the lime and constantly stir the solution until a dough forms. It is very important to use a protective mask and gloves when working with quicklime.
After preparing the dough for laying the oven, it should be crumbled and sifted thoroughly, getting rid of too large particles.
Sand is added to the sifted solution, the amount of which should be 3 times more than lime.
Adding water will allow you to obtain a thick mass for laying a stove or a separate firebox. Now you can start building a real Russian stove. Some craftsmen, for greater strength, add a small portion of cement to the solution.

A high-quality, but more expensive replacement for oven clay and lime mortar is cement mortar. Cement is characterized by increased strength and resistance to temperature changes; it is most suitable for laying a stove used for heating a room, as well as a chimney or oven.

To prepare such a solution you will need sifted sand and cement. The ratio should be 1 portion of cement to 3 portions of sand. Having prepared a dry solution (just mix cement and sand), you can gradually add water to it, but only in small portions. Having achieved the required consistency (the solution should become creamy), you can begin laying a brick stove for your home or cottage. The main disadvantage of cement mortar for creating a brick oven with your own hands is that it should be used within one hour after preparation.

And another useful video for beginner stove makers

Hello, in today’s article we will describe in detail the layout and sequence of laying the simplest stove known to me, measuring 890x510x770 mm. If you have never dealt with the practical side of laying stoves, but want to start somewhere, then this stove is best suited for these purposes, or choose one of . If you comply with the requirements described below, it is not realistic to make a mistake - once, the stove will have 100% good draft or two, the stove will not smoke or three. In addition, it is so small and lightweight in design that if mistakes are made (for example, a clay solution that is too greasy, or an incorrect calculation of the strength of the floor in the absence of a foundation, which can lead to mobility of the stove and further deformation), it can always be rebuilt in 2-3 hours work. In general, anyone armed with only a general gun can practice on this stove. lacking practical experience.

In general, the features of this stove include low efficiency below 75%, low heat transfer of 700 kcal/hour caused by the small volume of the stove (only 118 bricks), low weight of about 540 kg, the presence of a two-burner cast iron stove and 1 cleaning door.

So, to lay a simple kitchen stove we need:

solid ceramic brick brand>M100 -118 pieces;
clay-sand mortar - about 80 kg
grate size 180x250mm - 1 piece;
combustion door - 250x180 mm - 1 piece;
air door and cleaning door, size 140x130 mm each - 1 piece;
cast iron stove with 2 burners 720x410 mm or similar - 1 piece;
valve 130x130 mm - 1 piece;
felt, steel tape, corners as needed according to the drawing.

Sequence of laying a simple brick kitchen stove

The basis for this stove is a slab when strong field lay 1-2 layers of felt impregnated with clay mortar on top of a sheet of any steel, all this is fastened with self-tapping screws. A separate foundation is not required.

1st row: simple solid masonry with solid bricks

2nd row The same as in the 1st row, when laying we observe the dressing of the seams, parallel to the diagonal and corners.

3rd row Lay out the ash pan and install a 140x130 mm door, secure it on the sides with 3/4 bricks.

4th row On the left side we lay out a 140 mm channel, from which flue gases are directed into a pipe or heating panel. We install a cleaning door opposite the channel.

5th row Masonry as well as 4th row. We close the blower door, thereby creating a 260x260 mm hole for installing the grate.

6th row We narrow the smoke channel to 260x260 mm, the blower to 200 mm - this is slightly larger than the width of the grate.

7th row We continue to narrow the smoke channel to 260x130 mm. We do everything according to the drawing; the bricks in contact with the grate must be hewn in the diagram; this is indicated by strokes; the side bricks will have to be pressed a little inside the masonry closer to the grate.

8th row We get the size of the firebox 520x260 mm. Installing the fire door

9th and 10th rows In accordance with the order, we observe the dressing of the seams.

11th row Place the cast iron pita on a weak clay solution. For greater strength, we tie the brick around the perimeter with a frame made from a corner measuring 30x30x4 mm

At the end, we remove the remaining clay solution (snot) through the cleaning door, and dry it with the doors open for 1-2 weeks, after which we approach the firebox, first partially (splints, birch bark) and then fully. We also recommend that you familiarize yourself with the drawings and other And .

If you have any questions while reading, write in the comments and we will answer.

The construction of complex variants of furnace structures is a painstaking process that requires enormous patience, knowledge, skills and financial costs. Therefore, if you have the funds, it is recommended to use the help of professionals. And those who want to build a stove with their own hands should study the advice of experts on choosing a competent project and high-quality equipment.

Carrying out accurate calculations and strict adherence to the masonry scheme will allow you to obtain a reliable thermal unit even when further use provide protection against fire and poisoning carbon monoxide. Consequently, any stove must meet the basic requirements - not smoke, provide heat and guarantee fire safety. It is better for beginners to choose for construction simple model devices to independently carry out high-quality masonry of the stove.

Construction tools and equipment

For installation work are used:

acute and rectangular sledgehammers;
plumb line;
brackets (mooring);
combined trowel;
hammer;
tampers;
putty knife;
level, square and tape measure;
meter (folding);
seam joints, markings for openings, templates for channels;
brick and clay (red);
cement;
sand;
grate;
doors, stove (cast iron) and valves;
aluminum and steel fittings (corners and strips).

Procedure

1. First stage.

To ensure the accuracy of the calculations, first lay the masonry according to the finished scheme of the unit, but without using the mixture. The stove is mounted on a foundation that complies with all technical safety rules. To do this, dig a pit (depth 1 m), where sand is poured (layer 11 cm), and concrete is loaded on top. After that, on the hardened surface, following the instructions, place a quadrangle of bricks, which will serve as the base for the furnace. Using a level, check the horizontalness of the masonry. A couple of bricks are moistened with water so that they are easier to bond with the mortar, they are placed on the mixture and pressed down (lightly), and the excess is removed with a spatula and the further construction process continues according to the same principle.

Roofing material (triple layer) is laid on the first level, which performs a waterproofing function. Before performing the 2nd row, attach the oven door, wrapped in wet asbestos cardboard, with special brackets. The third level should consist of fireclay bricks, and a grate is placed above the ash pit. The laying of building material on the 4th tier occurs on edge. A chimney is built inside the stove. On the back surface of the device, the masonry is made without mixture so that its edges move slightly out of the main row, which will make it easier to clear debris from the hole for the passage of smoke.

The firebox door is wrapped with asbestos cord and secured to the 5th tier with bricks (temporarily) and wire. The material at this level of masonry, as in the main part of the furnace, is placed flat (along the contour of the previous layer). The edges of the sixth row of the device are hewn, the grate is attached flush, and the bricks are placed on the edge. It is recommended to wipe the chimney with a damp cloth. The bricks (on the 7th level) are laid out flat, and on the back wall of the oven a couple of bricks are attached to the edge. The eighth tier of masonry covers the fire door.

2. Second stage.

Next, work on the stove continues according to the finished pattern until the beginning of the twelfth row. On this tier, a cast iron slab is mounted on the mortar (with a slight offset back), and an asbestos cord runs along the perimeter of the masonry, which is covered with corners on top. The support for the trays is provided by strips of steel, inserted into the walls of the cooking chamber and strengthened from the fourteenth row, through the next two, to the twentieth. This tier contains: a corner, a frame and exhaust duct from sheet iron. Before installation chimney the gap between its lining and the ceiling is filled with asbestos.

3. Third stage.

After making a heating unit with your own hands, the chimney is cleaned, temporary bricks are removed and Painting works. The stove surface is dried before plastering and lime whitewash. A mixture of clay, asbestos, sand and cement is used as a coating. First, according to the instructions, on outside masonry, a liquid layer of the composition is applied, and after it dries, a denser layer is applied. Whitening the stove lime mortar With salt. Drying oil or oil dyes are not suitable for coating masonry, as when heated they emit fumes that are harmful to health.

1. When building a furnace with your own hands, strong and properly fired bricks should be used, with a flat surface and without various damages, since its functioning and duration of use will depend on their quality. The strength of this material is determined independently. To do this, use a hammer to break one brick; if it breaks into large pieces, it means it is suitable for use in the masonry process. In the area where the fire is lit, a fire-resistant type is used that can withstand high heat.

2. The reliability of the furnace structure depends on the optimal ratio of sand and clay in the solution. A composition with a plastic and thick consistency is considered to be of high quality.

3. The thickness of the seams is from 3 to 5 mm.

4. Pre-prepared recesses in the bricks, intended for the installation of a grate, dampers and doors, provide the latter with longer operation. The depth of the grooves must correspond to the thickness of the casting.

5. The bricks on the masonry tiers are placed as close to each other as possible. During the construction of the furnace, the procedure is constantly checked against the finished device diagram, which makes it possible to control its exact compliance.

6. The gap between the masonry and the floor is hidden by installing an iron pre-furnace sheet or plinth. To protect the corners of the structure from possible damage, it is recommended to attach protective devices(using bolts).

7. It is permissible to begin operation 14 days after completion of installation work. It is recommended to start hardening the unit by burning thin wood chips to prevent it from cracking. After finishing the combustion process, following the operating instructions, the chimney is closed using valves.

Cost of materials and labor

Self-construction of a furnace is much cheaper compared to the services of a qualified worker. The minimum price for a master’s work starts at 25,000 rubles and is negotiated individually when concluding a contract. Payment for work and cost of masonry for different kinds stoves are determined taking into account their volume, design features and location in the house. The purchase price of building material and its quantity required for the construction of the selected type of structure, design and color scheme are the main indicators in determining the final payment. Important role Types of cladding also play a role. Finishing with tiles costs 1200–2500 rubles per 1 m2 (excluding the amount for masonry equipment).

Average cost of construction supplies:

The cost of bricks varies from 20 to 150 rubles per 1 piece. There is also a difference in prices when purchasing castings and other materials for masonry. If the firebox door Russian production costs 400 rubles, then imported - 4,000. One bag of ready-made mixture for building a stove (consumption for 35 bricks) - 400. The estimated price of masonry is determined only after careful study future design, taking all measurements.

During the construction of the stove, it may be necessary to purchase additional equipment. The cost calculation also takes into account the cost of delivery and unloading of masonry materials, which is assigned by carriers.

Articles

Brick kilns equipped hob, are universal - they allow you to heat the house, as well as heat water and cook food. , from the simplest and most compact ones that you can fold with your own hands, to complex multifunctional ones, the laying of which is best left to an experienced stove maker.

It would seem that there is nothing easier than replacing the suitable surface of a brick oven with a metal insert with your own hands, getting a stove for cooking. In reality, everything is much more complicated. A stove is a complex device, and the thermophysical processes occurring in it depend on correct location its elements.

There are special requirements for furnaces of this type. On the one hand, it must effectively accumulate heat in the thickness of the brickwork, on the other hand, it must take a significant part of the heat to heat the hob. IN summer time when heating the house is not required, the hob should warm up quickly with economical consumption fuel.

Requirements

Theoretically, the hob can be made from any material that can heat up to high temperatures when the stove is fired. In practice, they are used with holes covered with a removable lid.

This design makes it possible to obtain zones on the slab with different temperatures. The thermal conductivity of cast iron, unlike steel, is not very high, so you can heat food on the plane of the stove, as well as cook or stew it over low heat. And by opening the lid, you can achieve direct heating of the cookware with an open flame, which allows you to quickly boil water or fry food in a frying pan.

The most practical burners shown in the photo, consisting of concentric rings of different diameters- they can be adjusted to the size of the bottom of the dish. In addition, the gaps between the rings are compensated thermal expansion cast iron, which occurs when overheated, and the stove can withstand multiple heating and cooling cycles without damage. Solid cast iron plates less reliable and require more careful heating.

Materials

Which brick is preferable for laying a stove equipped with a hob?
In most cases, on the ordering diagrams of stoves for a home, cottage or bathhouse, you can see two types of brick: ordinary solid ceramic and fire-resistant fireclay - it is most often designated yellow. From fireclay bricks, they lay out with their own hands those parts that experience the greatest thermal loads during combustion: the firebox and the roof of the furnace, part of the smoke channel directly after the combustion chamber.

The main difference between fireclay bricks is its increased heat capacity. It is able to accumulate and release the resulting heat for a long time more efficiently than ceramic. For masonry heating stove, and especially this is an undeniable plus.

But if the stove is used primarily as a cooking stove, then the increased heat capacity of fireclay is rather a disadvantage: it will absorb a significant part of the heat, and cooking will take more time. In the summer it will be impossible to cook on such a stove - the room will become hot and stuffy.

If the stove is used primarily for cooking, it is recommended to use a minimum amount of fireclay bricks!

Kinds

There are many varieties of heating and cooking stoves; every stove maker probably has in stock several tested drawings and diagrams, according to which he carries out the masonry with his own hands. But, one way or another, they are all built on the basis of long-known ones, which are discussed below.

Swedish oven

"Swedish" was originally intended to perform several functions: heating, cooking a variety of foods, as well as drying and keeping clothes warm. Its design is thought out for the smallest details, the oven is equipped and hob, and an oven, and perfectly heated stove niches. In addition, her smoke channels are made in such a way that the body of the furnace is heated evenly from bottom to top, thanks to which the room maintains a stable temperature.

A distinctive feature of the Swedish stove shown in the photo is the oven. And its function is not limited to baking and baking. The oven is located next to the firebox and separated from it thin layer masonry The firebox arch is formed by a slab located in a niche. Immediately after starting the fire, the cooking surface and the wall between the firebox and the oven warm up well.

IN winter time when the oven is fully loaded, the initial The room is heated by convection currents from the stove and oven, after finishing the fire - due to the heated walls of the oven. The hob does not overheat, since air constantly circulates above it.

In summer the stove is used mainly for cooking. In this case, intense convection does not occur, since there is no temperature difference, and a small amount of fuel is sufficient for good heating of the stove. The oven also warms up, creating a zone at the outlet of the firebox high temperature, due to which the flue gases go into the channels completely burnt out. The furnace body heats up slightly.

Scheme and drawings of the furnace masonry Swedish type with your own hands is shown in the figure.

To lay a classic “Swedish” with your own hands you need:

solid red brick, grade M 150 - 580 pieces;
clay-based dry masonry mixture - 200 kg;
cast iron grate;
firebox door;
ash door;
cast iron stove with two collapsible burners;
oven welded from sheet metal;
chimney damper - 2 pcs;
cleaning - 3 pieces;
equal-flange steel angle 40 mm - 170 cm;
steel strip 5x50 mm - 65 cm;
flat slate 10 mm thick - 1 sheet;
roofing iron.

The foundation for the swedish is made solid, from concrete. Under the foundation it is necessary to make a sand and gravel cushion 15-20 cm thick. The height of the foundation itself is at least 30 cm, with two-layer reinforcement made of rods. Before laying begins, the foundation is kept for at least 20 days to gain strength.

Level the foundation using a screed with the floor level. After it dries, it is necessary to thermally insulate the furnace from the concrete, otherwise it will absorb a significant part of the heat.

Do it like this:

an asbestos sheet 3-4 mm thick with dimensions 30 cm larger than the dimensions of the stove on the sides and back and 60 cm on the firebox side is placed on the foundation;
a heat reflector is placed on the asbestos - foil or thin galvanization;
followed by another similar layer of asbestos with the same dimensions;
sheet roofing iron with the same indentations as asbestos;
on top of the iron is technical felt, impregnated with clay milk according to the size of the furnace.

On top of the felt, after it has dried, they begin laying the stove according to the order scheme:
First two rows- solid. They form the base of the oven. Third and fourth- install the blower door, clean and begin to form the lower part of the smoke circulation and the ash pan. In the 5th row install the grate and oven. In the 6th row continue to lay out smoke ducts, install a partition between the oven and the combustion chamber. In the 7th row install the firebox door and secure it in rows 8 and 9, continue to lay out channels. 10 row forms a support for the hob. To install it correctly, you must first lay the brick dry, attach the slab and mark the laying grooves.

For ease of laying, the bricks are numbered, the row is disassembled and, using a grinder, recesses for laying the slab are selected so that there is a gap of 5 mm on all sides. After which the row is assembled onto masonry mortar, and the slab itself is placed on clay-asbestos liquid solution. To prepare it, crushed asbestos is introduced into the masonry mortar, diluted to a creamy consistency. When laying the slab, be sure to check its level. If the burners have different size, the larger one is placed above the firebox, the smaller one - above the oven.

Laying rules hob: video

From 12 to 16 row lay out the walls of the niche above the stove and the smoke ducts. On top of row 16 put a leaf flat slate by niche size, and in rows 17 and 18 they lay it with bricks, forming the ceiling of the furnace. Next laying lead according to the pattern up to row 30, in which a valve is installed, after which they begin laying the required height.

Small cooking stove

At the dacha or at summer kitchen the stove can only be installed for one purpose - cooking. In this case, there is no need to waste material on smoke circulation. An excellent model of a cooking stove is presented in order.

This multifunctional wood-burning stove performs several functions: you can cook and fry on the hob, bake in the oven, and it is also equipped with a built-in tank for heating water.

The sketch of the facade shows its elements:

1 - firebox;
2 - ash pan and ash pit;
3 - oven;
4 - water tank;
5 - cleaning door.

The stove resembles a “Swedish” stove in design and type of heating, but without smoke ducts. The heated smoke goes straight into the chimney, so the stove is heated with a small amount of fuel. The exit to the chimney is located at the rear, which allows you to remove the pipe through the wall yourself, observing fire safety standards.

For such a stove no more than 250 bricks required, which allows you to install it on the floor of the house without building a foundation. In this case, it is also necessary to do thermal insulation, but in the reverse order: lay felt on the floor, soaked in a liquid clay solution, and on it - a sheet of roofing iron. Laying begins on top of the sheet.

First two rows, like the Swedish one, solid. In the 3rd row install cleaning at 4 and 5- the door of the ash pit, forming a smoke circulation and exit to the chimney. In the 6th row They cover the ash pan door, install the oven and water tank. In the 7th row a grate is placed at the bottom of the firebox, from 8 to 10 row lay out a partition between the firebox and the oven, and install the firebox door. 11 row- overlap over the firebox door, oven and tank. Also in the 11th row a recess is made for laying the slab.

The top of the stove is covered with a cast iron hob with two burners. They are selected so that the maximum heating element is located above the firebox. Place the slab with a gap of 5 mm on a clay mortar with the addition of asbestos.

Kuznetsov furnaces

Fundamentally new design furnaces are implemented in Unlike channel furnaces, they do not have a complex system of internal passages, and the circulation of gases occurs in cavities - bells. For this feature, Kuznetsov stoves are called bell stoves. Among his developments are heating, cooking, stoves for baths and cottages.

In channel furnaces, hot gases pass through labyrinths of passages, gradually releasing heat. It causes uneven heating, and sometimes destruction of furnace elements. If the channels are insufficiently long, for example, in sauna stoves, the gases do not have time to cool, as a result, efficiency decreases, and the stove heats the air.

In bell-type structures, heated smoke rises into the bell - a cavity bounded at the top by the ceiling and with an exit at the bottom. The hot gas at the top of the bell gradually cools, heating the walls of the furnace, and gradually falls down. The circulation of gases in Kuznetsov bell furnaces is shown in the figure.

For complete heat transfer in Kuznetsov stoves, not one, but two or three caps are made, and their placement can be either vertical - one above the other, for example, in sauna stoves, or horizontal - in models equipped with a stove bench. Heating cooking ovens, as a rule, imply a vertical arrangement of the caps.

The hob is located either above the firebox or forms the arch of the lower hood. In the second case, the temperature on it will be more stable. Procedures for do-it-yourself masonry, as well as photos of the most popular designs of Kuznetsov stoves are presented below.

Heating and cooking stove

Kuznetsov stove for a bath

Video: laying Kuznetsov’s heating and cooking stove

Video: Kuznetsov stove for a bath

A heating and cooking stove is an indispensable attribute of a country house, as well as a relaxation area in a bathhouse or in a country house. If there is a diagram, drawings, order and detailed instructions you can fold it with your own hands, and it will warm the house and delight the owners with a variety of delicious and fresh dishes.

Since ancient times, heating and cooking stoves have been present in houses. They acted as the main component of any rural home. Nowadays, people living in private houses in the city also do not refuse to install this structure. It has not lost its functionality, so it is actively used by many.

Even if the house has a heating system running on gas or electricity, many people do not want to turn it on full power on autumn days when the house becomes cool. In this case, a stove will help ensure a comfortable microclimate in your home. It is enough to throw a few logs into the firebox and your home will quickly become warm.

If you decide to acquire this structure in your home, then the task of its construction must be approached with all seriousness, since the stove is built with the expectation that it will last for decades. It doesn’t matter whether you build a heating stove with your own hands or a stove with a stove. Therefore, if mistakes are made during the construction process, it will be extremely difficult to correct them later.

Speaking about stoves, we note that they are divided into structures for single and two-story houses. The main difference between them is the height. The structure being built may have a slab or be used only for heating. In the second case, the slab in it is like compound element absent. The height of a do-it-yourself oven depends on the number of rows in the design. Next, we will look in detail at how to build a stove with your own hands in a private house.

Materials for masonry

Calculation of materials is extremely important point when laying a stove with your own hands. In addition, the quality of the structure affects its service life. The stovetop oven we are looking at in this article typically measures 90 x 90 cm at the base. As for its height, the structure does not reach its highest point to ceiling first floor at 2.1 m.

Before you start building a stove with your own hands, need to purchase materials in sufficient quantities that will be used in its construction. During the work you will need:

red brick M150 in the amount of 1085 pcs.;
sand-lime brick for the construction of a firebox, 150 pcs. Instead, you can use fireclay;
sand - 80-100 buckets;
clay – 200 kg;
corner 50x50 mm and 40x40 mm;
steel wire 2 mm - 25 m;
metal sheet 4 mm 1.5 × 1.5 m;
roofing felt -3 m;
asbestos cord 5 mm - 10 m;
material for wall insulation.

The construction of the foundation also requires the preparation of appropriate materials:

sand;
cement;
fittings;
crushed stone;
boards for formwork.

In addition, to build a full-fledged stove with a stove with your own hands, which can be used for heating your home and cooking, you will need to purchase cast iron parts:

grate - 1 pc.;
hob with two burners - 1 piece;
valves - 3 pcs.;
two doors for the combustion chamber and the blower, 1 pc. each;
cleaning doors - 5 pcs.

After the materials have been prepared and the builder has them at his disposal necessary tools, you can move on to the active phase of work.

Foundation

Accepting the fact that the structure being built has a large mass, when constructing a foundation with your own hands deepen it no less than 80 cm. However, when maintaining foundation works The climatic features of the area of residence, as well as the depth of freezing, should be taken into account. You can find out about this from local builders. Taking into account all these points, a stove built with your own hands according to the chosen scheme will last a long time.

The pit for the foundation being constructed must have square shape. As for its dimensions, they should be 1.2 × 1.2 m. You can easily dig it with your own hands, using hand tools- a shovel.

After completion of the excavation work, the bottom of the pit is compacted. Then at the bottom a sand cushion is arranged, for which it is important to withstand optimal thickness layer equal to 10-15 cm. Next, crushed stone is poured in a layer of 15 cm, which after laying it needs to be compacted, and then install the formwork. This must be done with the expectation that it will pass through the entire thickness of the foundation.

Pouring the foundation for the future furnace is carried out in several stages. The first layers may consist of mortar, which is made from cement and pebbles. Upper layer need to be filled with concrete made from sand and cement. Taking into account the weight of the structure, the foundation must harden long time, at least three weeks. This is important, because otherwise a stove built with your own hands, even in accordance with the selected scheme, will not last long. A crack in the foundation will require repairs.

When the base of the oven with the stove has gained sufficient strength, the formwork is removed, and the upper part of the foundation is covered with waterproofing material– three layers of roofing material. The first brick laying with your own hands will be done further on it.

Compared to a fireplace, the design of a stove with your own hands is more complex. Therefore, the construction scheme must be strictly observed.

Due to the fact that the area of the foundation is larger than the base, markings should be made on the waterproofing. After this, you can proceed to laying the first row.

If used vertical diagram When laying rows, it must be remembered that the chimney channels should not be too narrow. Their minimum size- 13 × 13 centimeters.

The sequential layout scheme for a heating and cooking furnace assumes the following: already from the first rows of masonry, its layout should include a blower chamber. When laying the second row begins, a blower door is installed, which is wrapped with asbestos cord before being installed in the opening intended for it.

When installing the door, a wire is wound around it, which is clamped between two bricks. When it is completely framed with masonry, the wire is bent to the sides.

When they reach the fourth row of the furnace, holes are marked on it for the circulation of heated air. On the fifth stage, the firebox grate is laid. When constructing the firebox wall and its threshold, it is permissible to use sand-lime brick.

The combustion door is installed on the sixth row. It, just like the blower, is wrapped with asbestos cord.

From rows 6 to 10, special attention must be paid to the shape of the holes, which will ensure air movement inside the structure. The tenth row, if possible, must be fastened with a frame welded from a corner. On the 11th row, a hob is placed on a pre-laid asbestos pad.

The corner is laid on the seventeenth row. The 18th row of masonry will lie on it, which will complete the framing of the chamber above the slab.

On the 19th-20th rows of masonry, drying chamber. On the 19th row, the cleaning door is installed.

Again metal corner laid on the 24th row of masonry. On him a continuous row of bricks will be laid, which will become the ceiling of the dryer.

The cleaning door is installed on the 25th row.

On the 30th row, two valves are installed.

All subsequent rows up to the 38th are performed according to the scheme, and the next ones form part of the furnace that goes to the second floor. Note that this part of the furnace has a different numbering in order. Its laying is carried out according to the following scheme:

The door installation is performed on the 2-3rd row. It is used for cleaning;
installation of the chimney damper is carried out on the 27th row;
the part of the stove installed on the second floor should have the shape of a wide chimney. It must be equipped with a valve and a chamber. It is gradually replaced by a narrow pipe, which begins at the level of the 32nd row.

An umbrella is placed on the top of the pipe, which prevents dust and moisture from getting inside it.

Furnace diagrams

Do-it-yourself stoves that are built in private homes can currently be divided into two groups:

modern devices;
outdated designs.

Building outdated structures with your own hands is not a problem. However, they have an imperfect design, so most often houses have stoves and stoves, which differ in their functionality.

If you decide to build a stove with a stove in your home or just a heating structure with your own hands, then you need to approach the task of choosing them with all seriousness. Familiarization with the advantages of furnaces of different designs will allow you to make right choice. If a private house already has a stove with an old-style stove, then in this case there is no need to build the structure from scratch. It is enough to remodel it and you will have equipment for heating and cooking at your disposal.

To avoid mistakes during the remodeling process, you should first read the video and various instructions how professionals do this work. It is also necessary to use drawings during work. By applying the acquired knowledge, you can get good result upon completion of the work, you will have a stove with a stove, built with your own hands.

One of the common types of stoves is two-tier. If we talk about its structure, then we note that it consists of two designs- one stands on top of the other. Each part of this structure has dimensions of 165x51x238 cm. When the furnace is operating, the heat transfer in the lower part is 3200 kcal/h, and in the upper part - 2600 kcal/h.

When building such a structure with your own hands, the two structures are separated from each other by masonry made of bricks with voids. This allows you to reduce the weight of the stove and save during its construction a certain amount of material. The lining, which is used to fill the space between the upper and lower oven, also acts as a base for the first structure.

Both the upper and the lower ovens have exactly the same design. In the case under consideration, a ductless smoke circulation system is implemented. Once in the firebox, the gases move into the upper cap, which is equipped with a special nozzle. After the gases cool, they sink to the bottom to the level of the firebox. Then they go into the chimney through the underpass.

For a lower stove, the chimney runs through the top, so the heating surface is smaller. The upper structure includes a separate chimney. The process of its laying does not contain difficult moments. The gas movement pattern is also simple. There is a door in the back wall through which the lower structure must be cleaned. Cleaning the upper structure must be done through the door located in the side wall. The fuel for a two-tier stove can be used either coal, or anthracite. Each of the pipes created in this furnace is additionally equipped with a valve.

A reinforced concrete slab is often used to cover the top of voids. This type of overlap provides stability, and in addition makes the furnace structure as a whole more stable. When performing masonry of such volume, errors must be excluded. Indeed, if they occur, repairs will be extremely difficult.

Great care should be taken in the design of the chimney located in the lower structure of the furnace. If there are leaks in the masonry, then in this case You may experience heat leakage from the wall, which separates the pipes on the second floor. Note that this will also happen when the smoke valves are closed.

Ovens with a stove or any other type can be combined into any array, regardless of whether they have a square or rectangular shape. The type of fuel also does not have special significance. For country house a stove built with your own hands can become ideal option heating

A stove of this design has dimensions of 102x102x238 cm. If we talk about its heat transfer during operation, it is 4200 kcal per hour.

One of its important parts, the firebox, has a greater height in the design of this stove. The symmetrical arrangement is also characteristic of its side openings, which serve to remove gas through the side chambers of the furnace walls located on the sides of the structure. Once there, the gas descends through the chambers, the connection of which is ensured by a special channel located under the firebox.

Gases enter the risers from each side chamber through the lower flaps. Then they rise into the side chambers located at the top. All together they form the top cap, which contains three U-shaped cavities.

The cavities are located parallel to each other. Once up, the gas will be retained in the middle and rear cavities of the cap, and after cooling, it will move to the front plane along the bottom. WITH chimney The front plane is connected by a push-on type. From there the gas will escape into the atmosphere.

The design of this furnace has three hoods: an upper one and 2 large chambers. If we talk about the type of fuel that can be used in the construction of this structure, we note that it can be anything. To lay out the walls of the firebox during the construction of the furnace, refractory bricks should be used.

Stove in the house - good help in creating a comfortable microclimate with minimal costs. She can act as the main heating system for a home or used as an additional heat source. The construction of this structure does not have to be entrusted to a specialist. You can build a stove in your home yourself if you study all the nuances of building a stove. High-quality execution work will allow you to get a stove that will give off heat well and will last for decades.