Wooden floors in a house made of aerated concrete - practical advice. Prefabricated wooden floor in a house made of aerated concrete on wooden beams Monolithic interfloor floors

The advantages of installing wooden floors in a house made of aerated concrete include low load on the walls, affordable cost of building materials, the ability to implement complex and non-standard projects, no need for lifting equipment and ease of installation. The installation technology is considered simple, Special attention is paid to the correct distribution of the load on the blocks, the treatment of wood with fire retardants and antiseptics and the protection of the structure from external influences.

Material calculation

The approximate load on the timber and walls is 400 kg/m2 (if necessary, its exact value can be found by adding the weight of the structures and furniture). The cross-section of load-bearing lumber is selected taking into account the provision of deflection within 1/300 of the main span. Allowable length wooden beam is equal to 6 m; when choosing its size, you need to extend the aerated concrete partitions by at least 15 cm. The recommended spacing of the supports varies in the region of 60-100 cm, but no more. We recommend that you read others.

The standard scheme includes elements with a cross-section of 50×100 and above, located transversely to the main span, sheathed underneath with boards, steam, heat and waterproofing layers, and flooring that acts as a floor or protects the insulation from external influences. The calculation comes down to choosing a section and step load-bearing supports, in turn depending on the area of the room and the magnitude of the loads expected on the aerated concrete and the floor. It is easier to take the recommended sizes of wooden beams from the tables:

	Beam cross-section, mm
Span length, m	2	3	4	5	6
With a beam pitch of 60 cm and a default load of 400 kg/m2	75×100	75×200	100×200	150×200	150×225
The same, with a step of 1 m	75×150	100×175	125×200	150×225	175×250
With a step of 1 m and a calculated load on the wooden floor of 150 kg/m2		50×140	60×180	80×200	100×220
The same at 200 kg/m 2		50×160	70×180	100×200	140×220
-/- 250 kg/m 2		60×160	70×200	120×200	160×220
-/- 300 kg/m 2		70×160	80×200	120×220	200×220

It is easy to see that knowledge exact value weight loads allows you to save at least 20% on the purchase of wooden beams. The amount of remaining lumber is determined by taking into account the area of the premises and the size of the staircase opening (if any). When drawing up estimates, mandatory expenses include the costs of treating wood with antiseptics and fire retardants. The dimensions and type of insulation are selected based on the intended purpose of the structure: for overlap between floors, 10 cm is enough, the main task of the layer is to in this case is to ensure good sound insulation, preference is given to breathable fibrous materials. When laying it on the ground floor (floors on the ground), the minimum is 20 cm, when arranging the attic - 15-20.

DIY Installation Guide

For interfloor and attic floors work begins after laying the armored belt on top of aerated concrete blocks along the entire perimeter of the walls.

1. Preparation of the material. Elements of the required length are cut at an angle of 60-70° in the area where the aerated concrete is approached from the top side and wrapped with roofing felt or roofing felt.

2. Preparation. Between the future beam and outer wall pieces of insulation are laid and a gap is left for free air circulation.

3. Installation of supports, starting from the outermost elements according to the selected scheme. For fixing to an armored belt (U-shaped blocks or reinforced reinforced concrete tape) metal corners or studs treated with anti-corrosion compounds. This stage should not be carried out by yourself; level placement requires the strength of at least two people; the level of each support is carefully checked.

4. Fixing the vapor barrier taking into account the recommended overlap. This layer is mandatory when separating two floors or an attic; when assembling the floor of the first floor in a house made of aerated concrete, films or membranes are replaced with denser and more reliable roll waterproofing.

5. Installation of a roll-up that serves as a ceiling. TO bottom side beams are attached to boards with a thickness of 25 cm or sheet materials, for example, drywall. At this stage, you need to make a ventilation gap of 1-2 cm between them and the vapor barrier.

6. Placement of insulation between wooden elements. To determine the thickness of this layer, it is advisable to make a thermal engineering calculation; in the absence of data, the minimum is taken equal to 10 cm. Thermal insulation is laid without gaps, tightly adjacent to the beams; mineral wool slabs or mats with springy edges are best suited for these purposes; they are easy to use and preserve the ability of wood and aerated concrete blocks to pass air.

7. Protection of insulation from getting wet. Optimal characteristics in this case they have thin waterproofing membranes and films, roofing felt are used mainly in attics.

8. Covering with logs and laying the future floor. When laying interfloor ceilings, it can be made from tongue-and-groove boards, plywood or chipboard sheets, the final version depends on the type flooring. When arranging unused attics, in order to save money, this stage is skipped; laying over the beams of the bridges for moving is enough.

9. Decorative finishing ceiling. Large beams are sometimes left open, but such an interior will not be appropriate everywhere, in residential buildings the lower flooring is lined with clapboard, plaster or covered with tension structures.

The instructions given are suitable for installing floors of any configuration over aerated concrete with a density of at least 400 kg/m 3 and expanded clay concrete. The main risk area is the contact areas of wood, blocks and metal. Direct adjoining is avoided; insulation or insulation is provided in these areas of the walls. synthetic materials and gaps are left. TO mandatory conditions include choice correct wood: without large knots, cracks and weak areas and humidity not exceeding 15%. Glued or dried timber and ready-made I-beams have the necessary characteristics.

To ensure maximum operational reliability of the ceiling during its assembly, it is recommended:

Connect beams using screws rather than nails.
Take into account requirements fire safety and impregnate materials not only with antiseptics, but also with fire retardants. All elements are processed in advance; only dry timber is laid on the aerated concrete walls. To save money, you can carry out this stage yourself.
Carry out an accurate calculation of the thickness and coordinate the obtained data with the parameters of the armored belt. In order to prevent the formation of cold bridges in houses in these areas, thin layer thermal insulation, ideally protecting both of these structures. Laying mineral wool or foam plastic only on the side of the reinforced belt or ceiling is a violation; an exception is made only when used to increase load-bearing capacity U-shaped block walls.
Treat metal fasteners with anti-corrosion compounds.

Wooden beam floor is optimal only in low-rise buildings made of aerated concrete; for other options, the design is entrusted to specialists.

A building made of aerated concrete has its own design features, requiring increased attention during its arrangement. When making a floor in a house from aerated concrete, it is necessary to take into account that this material is quite light and mobile. Therefore, heavy beams are absolutely not suitable in such a house, and the best option is a wooden floor. Such a frame will place minimal load on the load-bearing walls, which guarantees the subsequent stability of the blocks and the absence of cracks on the walls.

Advantages of wooden flooring

In addition to light weight, it has a number of other positive characteristics:

Wood is a “breathable” material, which is very important for proper humidity and air circulation in the room, and even if only the ceilings are made from such raw materials, this will significantly improve the microclimate in the rooms.

Disadvantages of wood

Unfortunately, in addition to its advantages, wood also has disadvantages, which must also be taken into account when making aerated concrete floors in a house.

First of all, this material is fire hazardous, which dictates certain requirements to compliance with safety regulations in such a house.

The ceiling conducts sounds quite well, so during installation it is necessary to install additional sound insulation.

Wood is very susceptible to excessive moisture and does not like temperature changes, under the influence of which it changes its characteristics. This point should also be taken into account during construction.

Wood is not enough durable material Therefore, when making wooden floors for a house from aerated concrete, it is necessary to install a sufficient number of load-bearing elements.

Preparation for work on the manufacture of the floor frame

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare both the material for making the frame and the walls of the house. The fact is that aerated concrete is not a particularly strong material that does not tolerate compressive loads well, so it is necessary to mandatory reinforce.

This is especially important for interfloor frames, which include a wooden floor in an aerated concrete house with a basement. Such foundations bear not only the weight of the materials used in construction, but also the load from the furniture installed in the house and the people living in it. In this case, the floors experience both vertical and horizontal loads, which subsequently affect the aerated concrete walls.

Strengthening walls made of aerated concrete

Aerated concrete blocks, simply placed on a mortar or special glue, do not always withstand tensile loads, which is why walls are reinforced. Moreover, it is better to carry out this activity not only immediately before installing a wooden floor in a house made of aerated concrete, but also during the construction of walls every 4 rows of installed blocks. In addition, such a procedure will prevent the interaction of wooden beams with the block material.

Beams will subsequently be attached to the reinforcing belt using special anti-corrosion plates. In order to perform reinforcement, grooves measuring 12x12 mm are cut into the surface of the blocks, into which the reinforcement is placed. When used in walls, it is permissible to lay reinforcement in the seam gaps.

Wood processing

In addition to preparing the walls, it is necessary to compensate for all the shortcomings of wood raw materials. Before making a wooden floor in a house from aerated concrete, you need to treat the material with special impregnations that prevent rotting, the appearance of fungus and mold, and also reduce moisture absorption. All these products can be purchased at a building materials store or use old methods of antiseptic treatment. For example, use bitumen or mastic as waterproofing and antiseptic. It is also recommended to coat the material with agents that prevent the wood from burning.

Installation features

The specific characteristics of wood determine some design solutions in the manufacture of floors.

First of all, all load-bearing elements are reinforced with metal; for this, all connections in the ceilings are secured to each other with stainless steel plates. If the room area is large enough, you need to add additional elements type of columns or crossbars.

The thickness of the beams is calculated depending on the planned load plus 15-20% in reserve.

Depending on the width of the span used and the load on the wooden floor in a house made of aerated concrete, the distance between the load-bearing beams is calculated. In this case, the rule is observed: the larger the span, the more often it is necessary to install beams. This is necessary to prevent the beam from deflecting under its own and accompanying weight.

Installation of load-bearing beams

Installation of supporting beams is perhaps the most important work, on which the reliability and durability of the entire floor structure will subsequently depend.

In order to install the beams, special niches are cut out of their aerated concrete blocks into which the crossbars will be placed. The end of the beam is cut at an angle of 75 degrees, and the cut is treated with any available antiseptic. After this, the end of the crossbar is waterproofed using bitumen or mastic and wrapped with roofing felt.

The beam is placed in grooves on the walls, which also need to be thermally insulated mineral wool or polystyrene foam, this will prevent the wood from getting wet. In this case, a gap of 3 cm is maintained between the end of the crossbar and the walls of the niche.

After the final installation of the beam, the gaps in the grooves are filled with a special solution.

Very long crossbars, over 4.5 m, when bent, can destroy the lower part of the niche, so a 5 mm chamfer is made along the edge.

Arrangement of roll-up and laying of insulation

Wooden floor in a house made of aerated concrete (photo below) requires mandatory installation of hydro- and thermal insulation. Initially, cross members are made to secure the sheathing. As a rule, bars measuring 50x50 mm are used, on top of which boards made of boards are fixed.

The ceiling is covered along the bottom of the bars, with plasterboard or chipboard most often used. These materials are also lightweight, and subsequent processing of such a coating is most preferable for finishing work.

Mineral wool slabs or more are laid on top of the shields. modern insulation- expanded polystyrene, which performs a dual function - not only insulation, but also noise reduction.

Typically, the insulation thickness is about 10 cm, but when making a ceiling between the attic and the floor, as well as in the case of an unheated basement, the insulation height must be increased to 20 cm. If mineral wool is used, a vapor barrier is additionally installed to prevent moisture in the material and prevent condensation. If you use expanded polystyrene, this step can be skipped - such material itself is an excellent waterproofer.

Logs are laid on top of the insulation with an interval of 50-70 cm, and they are mounted on floorboard. At the same time, the gap between the insulation and the boards should not be filled with anything; it is needed for high-quality circulation, which will prevent the appearance of fungus and mold on the finished surface.

How to build a house from cinder blocks?

To build a house from cinder blocks, it is not necessary to contact professional builders, you can study the cinder block construction technique and do everything yourself. First, develop a project, calculate how much material you will need, and you can get to work.

Advantages and disadvantages

Before you start creating a project and building a house, you need to learn about the pros and cons of buildings made from cinder blocks.

Advantages of cinder block houses:

Saving Money. This material is much cheaper than brick and wood, especially if you produce it yourself.
A cinder block house does not require a massive foundation.
The material does not impose any special requirements for storage and transportation.
The construction is reliable and does not differ in quality from houses built from other materials.

But there is also two significant drawbacks:

The material is afraid of water, so you can build a house only in dry weather, and then plaster the walls well.
To ensure the required level of noise and heat insulation, it is necessary to responsibly select materials. If this stage of construction is not done correctly, moisture will seep into the cinder block.

Foundation for a cinder block house

Main requirements for the foundation: it must be high to protect the house from moisture, which cinder block is so afraid of, and well insulated. If the house is one-story and without reinforced concrete floors, then the foundation does not have to be super strong.

To build the foundation For cinder block house you will need: crushed stone, cement, gravel, reinforcement, sand, concrete mixer, cinder blocks, opata, level, hydro- and vapor barrier material.

This process is carried out in several stages:

Dig a trench and make a bed of sand and gravel about 50cm high.
Install the formwork and make a reinforced frame.
Prepare concrete mortar: mix 3 parts sand and crushed stone and 1 part cement. Fill the prepared structure with it.

Construction of the base, if provided, can begin after 7 days, and the construction of walls can only be done after complete drying (after approximately 1 month).

Walling

First, the corners are set so that the walls are perfectly even. One cinder block is placed in each corner, then it is leveled building level. Stretch the twine along which you will lay out the walls. Before starting work, prepare:

a mallet for hammering cinder blocks;
trowel for removing excess mortar on seams;
plasticizer (this material is added to the solution to increase its strength and ductility);
circular saw or hacksaw for cutting cinder blocks;
orders, plumb lines and spatulas.

Cinder block is laid using one of the traditional methods:

tychkovy (one stone);
spoon (half a stone);
one and a half stones;
two stones.

Important to remember, that laying cinder blocks can only be done at temperatures above 15 degrees. After preparatory work build the first row of blocks. The height of the seam should not be more than 1.5 cm, otherwise it will lead to deterioration thermal insulation properties. Do not fill cinder block voids with cement!

When erecting the first three rows, check the wall with a level as often as possible; it must be strictly vertical. Cinder blocks are laid offset by ½ block.

To avoid cracks and make the structure stronger, builders advise using reinforcement. To do this you will need fittings and electric cutters or wall chasers. Using electric cutters, recesses are made in cinder blocks, reinforcement is inserted into them and poured cement mortar. This procedure is repeated every fourth row.

Video of building a house from cinder blocks, masonry.

Once the walls are erected, you can begin building the roof. This process cannot be delayed for a long time, so as not to expose the cinder blocks to the harmful effects of precipitation. The same applies to external and internal finishing works.

How to insulate a house?

To make your home comfortable in cold weather, you need take care of the insulation of buildings And. Experts say that it is better to insulate a building from the outside, as this guarantees 70% of the effect; sometimes internal insulation is not even required.

Before internal insulation A vapor barrier layer is installed on the walls and ceiling of the building, after which you can use mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. Vapor barrier is not needed for finishing external walls.

If you want to save on insulation, then use polystyrene foam. This is the most cheap material, later it is plastered and painted. You can also buy polystyrene foam, which has low level water absorption, so there is no need to install a vapor barrier layer.

Insulation of walls with foam plastic and decorative works carried out in 5 stages:

The walls are being plastered.
Styrofoam is attached.
Reinforced mesh is being installed.
Work is underway to level and finishing walls
The building is being painted.

For painting it is better to choose acrylic or silicone plaster. And if you are not limited in finances, then for insulation it is better to purchase polyurethane foam - modern material, which is applied to walls by pouring or spraying. The result is a coating without seams; it does not allow cold air and moisture to pass through.

How to calculate the number of cinder blocks per house?

If you are building a house from cinder blocks, then first you need to calculate the amount of material. Those who produce themselves construction material, can make the missing amount at any time, it is only important to remember that the blocks will take time to become strong.

To calculate the number of cinder blocks you need to know the thickness of the wall. It may differ depending on the climatic conditions of the region where the house is being built. IN middle lane a thickness of 20-40 cm is sufficient, and in order for the house to retain heat in harsh winters, the size must be at least 60 cm.

When calculating remember basic construction terms: half a stone (20 cm), a stone (40 cm), one and a half stones (60 cm), two stones (80 cm).

Let's carry out calculations based on the most common parameters that are used when building a house from cinder blocks. For example, you need to build a 9x7 building, the height of the walls is 3 meters. The area of one cinder block is 0.08 m (0.4x0.2).

The first thing to do is calculate the number of blocks per 1 meter of wall. For this, 1/0.08 sq.m., it turns out 12.5 pieces. The wall will be built from two rows, so 12.5x2=25 cinder blocks. Now let’s calculate the area of the house: (9+9+7+7)x3=96 sq.m. 9 and 7 are the length of the walls, and 3 is the height. For each square meter you need 25 cinder blocks, which means for the construction of the entire house: 25x96 = 2400 pieces.

The calculations do not take into account openings, but this is not necessary. Cinder block is a fragile material, so you need to take it with a reserve.

House construction price

How much does it cost to build a cinder block house? You can build a house from cinder blocks with your own hands, but do not forget about developing the project. You can do this yourself or entrust it to professionals. The main thing is to take into account climatic conditions and soil characteristics, as well as the stability of the building.

The average cost of one cinder block is 35 rubles. For a 9x7 house you will need 2400 pieces, that is, this material will cost 84 thousand rubles. But this is only the construction of walls; we should also not forget about the construction of the foundation, roofing, sound and heat insulation, and finishing work.

Is it worth building?

Many of them are satisfied with the construction process, because the house can be built during the holidays. Save on the material itself and mortar, which costs half as much as brickwork. Houses made from this material look original, are warm in winter and cool in summer.

Cinder block houses- These are reliable and durable buildings. Their construction will not require a lot of time and financial expenses, especially if you produce cinder blocks yourself. But in order for the building to last a long time, and to live in it comfortably, you need to choose the right materials for insulation and finishing.

Construction of houses from aerated blocks is very popular in Lately. This is due to the fact that aerated concrete blocks allow you to build a house quickly. The walls are warm, breathable, and it’s easy to get a smooth wall surface.

When determining the design of a house, the question arises as to what type of flooring is best for houses made of aerated concrete blocks. First we will give a brief overview possible options, and then we will focus on wooden interfloor floors in a house made of aerated concrete.

Which cover is better?

In a house made of aerated concrete you can arrange different kinds interfloor ceilings. The most common are floors made of prefabricated reinforced concrete panels, monolithic reinforced concrete and wooden beams.

Brief characteristics of reinforced concrete floors

Iron concrete floors have all the characteristics necessary for floors:

strength;
durability;
high load-bearing capacity;
good sound insulation;
high fire resistance and non-flammability.

But, at the same time, there are a number of disadvantages that need to be taken into account when choosing a reinforced concrete floor.

Precast concrete panel floor. In the case of precast reinforced concrete panels, it must be taken into account that the plan and configuration of the building do not always allow for the optimal selection of the panel the right size. Since the panels are produced only rectangular shape, then it is impossible for them to cover rounded areas and rooms with irregular geometric shape. Then there are areas that have to be sealed additionally monolithic reinforced concrete. Despite the fact that the installation of reinforced concrete panels themselves is a fairly quick process, it is the installation that may become a factor due to which it will be necessary to abandon prefabricated panels, since not all areas have the opportunity for a crane to arrive to install them.

Advantages:

quick installation.

Flaws:

restrictions on size and shape;
the need for an entrance for the crane during installation.

Monolithic concrete floor. Monolithic ceiling It is convenient in that its installation does not require large equipment and it can be made of any size and shape. But constructing a monolith is a very labor-intensive process. This is the production and installation of formwork, installation metal frame, preparing concrete and pouring it, caring for concrete during the hardening process. Moreover, when pouring concrete, it is necessary to comply with certain technological rules to ensure its uniform distribution throughout the mass of the slab, which significantly affects the quality of the product. Labor intensity, duration and a large number of so-called “wet processes” may make you think about looking for another option for the floor design.

Advantages:

the ability to make floors of any shape;
no large equipment needed.

Flaws:

high complexity and duration of the process;
wet process;
you need a large amount of water, and there may not yet be such volumes of it on the site;
the need to comply with technological regimes for preparing and laying concrete.

A significant disadvantage for concrete floors when choosing a floor material for a house made of aerated concrete blocks is its weight. Considering that aerated concrete is a porous material, it is more fragile than just concrete and brick. And, therefore, in houses made of aerated concrete it is preferable to use more lightweight design ceilings

Brief characteristics of wooden floors

Therefore, very often the choice is made on wooden floors. Wooden floors are lighter than concrete, cheaper, and can cover rooms of various configurations.

Manufacturing and installation of wooden floors is not complicated. To install such a ceiling, you do not need large equipment; you can use homemade winches and hand tools.

Advantages:

a light weight;
flexibility in configuration;
availability of assortment of wood;
not difficult installation.

Flaws:

flammability;
the need for antiseptic protection.

Wooden flooring: design and installation

The load-bearing element of a wooden floor is a beam. Basically, beams are made from solid wood or laminated veneer lumber. But it can be used for beams and logs of the appropriate diameter. Approximate Dimensions beam sections depending on the pitch of the beams and the overlapped span can be seen in the table.

Table of sections of wooden floor beams depending on the span and pitch of the beams, the estimated load on the floor is 400 kg/m2.

	Span, m
Beam spacing, m	2,0	2,5	3,0	4,0	4,5	5,0	6,0
	Beam cross-section, mm
0,6	75x100	75x150	75x200	100x200	100x200	125x200	150x225
1,0	75x150	100x150	100x175	125x200	150x200	150x225	175x250
	Log diameter, mm
1,0	110	130	140	170	190	200	230
0,6	130	150	170	210	230	240	270

Fastening the beam to the wall. During the construction of the wall, floor beams begin to be laid out at the design height. The beams are inserted into the wall at a distance of at least 12 centimeters. The end of the beam, which is inserted into the wall, must be covered with waterproofing material: wrapped in roofing felt, covered bitumen mastic or other sealant with antiseptic additives.

There should be a small air gap around the beam; the beam should not sit rigidly. To do this, they also make a bevel at the end of the beam at an angle of 60-80 degrees. Polystyrene insulation is installed between the end of the beam and the outer part of the wall.

If it is necessary to lengthen the beams, this is done in the form of a lock: the beams are connected to each other with an overlap of 0.5 to 1.0 m and fastened with bolts. It is advisable to place the joints of the beams above internal wall or other support.

Floor structure design. To provide heat and sound insulation to the floor, sound and heat insulation is laid between the beams. For this purpose, a groove is made in the lower part of the beams, for securing which cranial bars with a section size of 50x50 mm are nailed along the bottom of the beams. Insulation materials should fit snugly against the bars. The bottom of the beams is lined with plywood, OSB board, or plasterboard.

Logs are laid on top of the beams, and a subfloor is laid on top of them. To improve sound insulation, special noise and vibration absorbing pads can be laid under the subfloor and under the joists.

To improve sound insulation and to reduce the possibility of ceiling sagging due to the impact of gravity on the floor top floor, there is an option to install the floor and ceiling using separated beams. The main idea of this method is to separate the floor structure and make different ones for the floor of the upper floor and for the ceiling of the lower floor. load-bearing beams. To do this, the floor is laid on the main supporting beams.

The floor beams are laid directly on the wall with an armored belt. Between them in the middle are mounted ceiling beams, which are attached to the wall with brackets.

Ceiling beams are installed with the same pitch as the load-bearing beams, so the distance between adjacent beams will be 0.3 or 0.5 meters, respectively. The ceiling beams will not bear large loads; their main task is to support suspended ceiling and a pie from soundproofing materials. Therefore, according to calculations, ceiling beams can be installed with a smaller cross-section. To place sound insulation, ceiling beams are placed 10-12 cm below the load-bearing ones. In this way, the floor and ceiling are not connected to each other and possible deflections and sounds from the floor structure are not transmitted to the ceiling structure.

Construction of a monolithic belt of an aerated concrete house: why is it important

In houses made of aerated concrete blocks, floor beams are laid along a monolithic belt. Monolithic belt in houses made of aerated concrete blocks is mandatory structural element. It helps to evenly distribute the load from the floor beams onto the wall, which helps ensure that the aerated concrete in the places where the beams are placed is not overloaded and does not crack. The monolithic belt must be solid and placed around the entire perimeter of the building. This belt has important for aerated concrete houses. In addition to distributing the load from the floor, it also serves to generally preserve the integrity and stability of the house structure, protects against possible destruction and deformation due to possible soil shrinkage and slight movements of the foundation. Therefore, special attention is paid to the construction of a monolithic belt.

There are special U-shaped gas blocks for constructing a monolithic belt.

Reinforcement is placed inside this block - 2-4 rods with a diameter of 8-12 mm.

The bottom row of rods is placed on special spacers so that a protective layer made of concrete.

If there are no ready-made narrow blocks, then they can be cut from standard ones; aerated concrete cuts well. You can also make a U-block yourself by cutting out the inside of the block with a handsaw.

The frame is made from reinforcement.

Important! The reinforcement is not welded, but twisted using wire.

At junction points, it is advisable to avoid right angles by bending the reinforcement in an arc.

You can attach embedded parts (rods) to it, to which the floor beams will be attached. WITH outside walls monolithic belt insulated with polystyrene. The cavity of the U-shaped block is then filled with concrete.

and filled with concrete

Since special blocks are expensive or may not be available for sale, a monolithic belt can be made as an ordinary concrete belt with a metal frame.

In order to external wall The place of its installation was not visually visible. The installation of the reinforced belt is carried out as follows: we install aerated concrete blocks 100 mm thick along the outer wall. Then, to avoid the formation of cold bridges, we lay 50 mm polystyrene. WITH inside We put formwork on the walls wooden shield, we place an armored belt in the resulting space.

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Aerated concrete blocks are rightfully considered the most innovative material for the construction of cottages, dachas and houses. The blocks themselves do not weigh much compared to bricks, have good geometry, and are placed on glue for cellular blocks, which is why the construction load-bearing structures doesn't take up large quantity time.

But aerated concrete also has a minus - due to its low strength, when pressure is applied to it from floors, the walls can crack. For this reason, when constructing floors in such houses, an armored belt is required. Next we will talk about wooden floors in a house made of aerated concrete.

Advantages and disadvantages compared to floor slabs

Wooden beams boast of being lightweight and easy to install. There is a misconception that light wooden floors do not require a reinforcing layer. This is fundamentally wrong.
Important! For aerated concrete walls Regardless of the type of ceiling, an armored belt is always required!

In the case of wooden floors, its construction will distribute the load from the beams along the entire perimeter of the walls and prevent cracking of aerated concrete from point loads.

The advantages of wooden beams are:

Environmentally friendly, since wood is a renewable natural material.
Small mass.
Low thermal conductivity compared to concrete structures.
Low price compared to other types of floors.
Large assortment to choose from.
Easy to install beams.

Wood also has its downsides:

Fragility. Sooner or later even the most good overlaps may begin to rot.
Low strength - wood will not be able to withstand as much weight as a concrete floor could.
Flammability ( natural materials are highly flammable).

Important! Despite such significant negative qualities, wood is still chosen much more often, and here's why: special compounds for impregnation of wood will be able to extend its service life, protect it from rotting and ignition. And low strength is eradicated by using more beams and reducing the laying step.

Now let's look at concrete floors and their disadvantages:

The first and most significant disadvantage is the high cost of concrete flooring. Not only are the floors themselves expensive, but their installation and transportation also requires special equipment (a crane). So you will have to pay a certain amount of money for installation. Wooden floors do not have this disadvantage - you can install them yourself. If the beams are small, then two or three people will be enough. The heavier and more massive they are, the more people will have to be involved.
High weight. We have already said that installation will require special equipment. You will also need a more expensive foundation.

Types of beams, advantages and disadvantages of each type

To build floors between floors of a building, I usually use only three types of wooden beams:

Whole.
Glued.
I-beams.

Let's figure out which of them are most suitable specifically for each design, highlight the disadvantages and advantages of each type.

Made from solid timber

Beams from solid timber They are distinguished by their strength, but are inferior in terms of the maximum possible length. To prevent the beam from bending over time, It is recommended not to install it longer than 5 meters. That is, timber floors are suitable only for small houses.

One of the significant disadvantages is that without proper treatment, floors may begin to rot and become moldy over time. The risk of fire should not be excluded.

Attention! For large structures, experts recommend using floors made from other types of beams.

From laminated veneer lumber

Beams made of laminated veneer lumber have one undeniable advantage - their length without bending can reach 12 meters.

Glued beams have the following advantages:

Particular strength.
Ability to cover spans up to 12 meters.
Small mass.
Longer service life.
Do not deform over time.
Relatively fireproof compared to conventional timber.

However, such material costs much more.

Wooden I-beams

I-beams considered one of the most durable and reliable due to the profile shape, because they consist of several layers, each of which is protected by various impregnations.

The advantages of I-beams include:

High strength and rigidity due to its shape.
No deflections.
Quiet operation - structures do not creak when pressure is applied to them, unlike other types of floors.
The material does not crack or dry out over time.
Easy to install.

Calculation of the required cross-section depending on the span length and loads, laying pitch

The number of beams, their dimensions, and installation pitch depend directly on the area of the room and the expected loads. Most experts believe that the optimal load on floors is 0.4 tons per square meter area (400 kg/m2). This load includes the weight of the beam itself, the mass of the rough and finishing coating floors above and ceilings below, insulation, communications, as well as furniture and people.

Advice! The best cross-section for rectangular wooden beams is considered to have a height to width ratio of 1.4:1.

The cross-section also depends on what kind of wood the floors are made of. Now let's give average recommended values for a laying step of 60 cm:

If the span is 2 meters, then minimum section should be 7.5 by 10 cm.
With a span length of 2 and a half meters, the beam should have dimensions of 7.5 by 15 cm.
If the span is three meters, then it is customary to use beams 7.5 by 20 cm.
With a beam length of 4 and 4.5 m, it is customary to use them with a section of 10 by 20 cm.
To build a five-meter floor, crossbars with a section of 125 by 200 mm are used.
The six-meter ceiling is made of beams measuring 15 by 20 cm.

If the step increases, then the size of the beam section should also be increased.
Here is a table of sections of wooden floor beams depending on the span and installation pitch, with a load of 400 kg/m2:

span (m)/ installation pitch (m)
0,6	75x100	75x150	75x200	100x200	100x200	125x200	150x225
1,0	75x150	100x150	100x175	125x200	150x200	150x225	175x250

If you do not plan to load the floors (in case non-residential attic for storing light items), then lower load values from 150 to 350 kg/m2 are permissible. Here are the values for an installation pitch of 60 cm:

Loads, kg/linear m	Section of beams with span length, m
Loads, kg/linear m
150
200
250
350

Also, for example, you can replace one beam with a section of 100x200 with two boards 50x200, sewn together with bolts or nails every meter. They do this for various reasons:

beams with the required cross-section are not available for sale;
boards with a smaller cross-section weigh lighter, so they can be lifted to the top alone and fastened there.

Types of floors

Nowadays, only three types of floors are mainly used:

Beam - consists of beams.
Ribbed - beams laid on an edge.
Beam-ribbed.

The first option is standard; it is for this that the section dimensions were described. Ribbed and beam-ribbed floors are practically not used at present due to the increased work time and complexity of the design, so we will not dwell on them.

Installation work

The main stage is, of course, the installation of beams. He means competent preparation still at the construction stage of the first floor.

At first the wood should be pre-treated with a fire-fighting compound, as well as with an anti-rotting liquid(this must be done with the entire crossbar). This must be done immediately after purchase. If the material will lie for some time before laying, it needs to be rearranged: a row of beams, then 3-4 bars across, then the next row. This will allow the board to ventilate and dry out. This will prevent mold from appearing.

The part of the beam embedded in the wall should also be coated:

Bitumen or primer.
Ruberoid, roofing felt or glassine.
Liquid waterproofing agent consisting of bitumen.
Linocrom.

This is done due to the fact that wood in contact with concrete and blocks can absorb moisture and begin to rot over time.

Reference. For aerated concrete, the content is considered normal operating humidity 3-5%. No matter how dry the blocks may seem, direct contact of wood with this material is unacceptable.

The beam must be sealed in load-bearing wall at least 12 cm. The ends are cut at an angle of 70 degrees to ensure moisture removal.

Attention! Cut off the end of the beam waterproofing material no need. Otherwise, access to moisture evaporation will be blocked. It is required to leave a small air gap between the end of the beam and the wall.

Beams are laid on a reinforced surface (to enhance the strength of the structure). Instead of an armored belt, some manufacturers in small houses allow support on aerated concrete with a 6x60 mm metal strip backing.

The beams are fastened to the reinforced belt in houses made of gas silicate using anchor bolts.

To insulate the street side, insulation can be placed in front of the beam. As a rule, the outer ends of the beams are insulated from the outside with expanded polystyrene.

Filling the voids between the laid beams is done with gas blocks. Gaps of 2–3 cm are left between the gas silicate and the timber. They are tightly packed with mineral wool, thus preventing the formation of condensation and dampening of the beams.

Don't forget to consider the placement of the stairs to the second floor, since the opening must be provided immediately:

Well, that's all, the floors are ready. Now you can begin the subsequent finishing.

Post-installation finishing

Once the construction of the floor is completed, it is recommended to wait before starting to produce finishing work so that the beams shrink. It is recommended to “hide” the ceilings behind a fine finish before the onset of cold weather so that they are not exposed to humid weather conditions.

It is also necessary to make a roof. If this cannot be accomplished before winter, then the entire structure should be covered with film or awning material, including the windows, so that moisture does not enter the building. But it is still recommended to leave small through gaps so that there is an optimal level of humidity inside the room.

Now directly to the post-installation finishing. First, a rough ceiling is made from the bottom of the ceiling. It can also be made from plywood if, for example, a suspended ceiling is to be erected in the future.

Important! You should start from the bottom of the beam, since insulation is usually placed between the ceiling and the floor, which also acts as sound insulation.

After installing the ceiling, insulation and vapor barrier (if necessary) are placed on top. For example, if the upper and lower floors will be constantly heated, then insulation is not necessary. But it should be noted that insulation also works as sound insulation. If the second floor is an attic, then you definitely need to insulate it - otherwise the heat will escape.

After laying the insulation, you can lay the subfloor (it will help in the further construction of the building, since you will not have to install scaffolding).

Finishing must be done after windows appear in the house and it shrinks.

Wooden interfloor ceilings- one of the most optimal solutions. After all, wooden beams are strong, lightweight and at the same time cheap. They are easy to install and do not put unnecessary pressure on the walls. Main, make the calculations correctly and be sure to process the wooden structure.

To increase the strength of the structure, you can use metal I-beams instead of wood. In this case, you will need a crane for installation. And metal costs more than wood. And if you are ready for such expenses, then isn’t it easier to opt for hollow core slabs ceilings? Since the main advantage of overlapping with wooden beams in aerated concrete house- cost savings.