DIY hive bottom drawings. How to make a beehive with your own hands? Bee hive: drawings, instructions

Uliy Langstroth in the photo

IN last years In foreign countries with developed beekeeping, there has been a very clear tendency to consistently reduce the number of hive designs to two, which are the Langstroth and Dadan-Blatt hives. In this regard, in the coming years, bee hives of two designs will be introduced into production, meeting the requirements of intensive beekeeping - a two-frame with magazine extensions and a ten-frame with magazine extensions.

A double-hull hive consists of a detachable bottom, two brood bodies containing ten frames measuring 435x230 mm each, three magazine extensions, a roof cover, a roof and a feeder. The size of the magazine frame is 435x I45 mm. The foreign analogue of this type of hive in modern beekeeping is the Langstroth hive.

The ten-frame hive consists of a detachable bottom, two brood boxes, two magazines, a roof cover, a roof and a feeder. What size frames are in this bee hive? Each brood body contains ten nesting frames measuring 435x300 mm, each magazine contains ten frames measuring 435x145 mm. This hive is a complete analogue of the Dadan-Blatt hive.

The experience of many beekeeping farms and amateur beekeepers has shown that a 12-frame hive with an insulated main body (wall thickness 40-50 mm) is optimal for the entire territory of Russia, including the northern regions. This is the hive that is best for beginning beekeepers. It allows bees to overwinter in the wild, while they get the opportunity to make a cleansing flight much earlier than when overwintering indoors. It has great importance in areas with a short period of increasing the strength of families, where in the spring it is necessary to obtain strong families in a short time.

A hive with a unified main body can be equipped with one or more magazine extensions with half-frames or additional bodies. Speaking about which hive is best for bees, it is worth noting that characteristic feature The main body of the 12-frame design is the presence of a large sub-frame space with a height of 100-120 mm and a hinged door at the bottom of the rear wall. To prevent bees from entering the under-frame space, it is separated from the nest by a bronze mesh with 4.4 mm cells, framed at the edges with slats or metal strips.

As you can see in the photo, in this bee hive the mesh moves along grooves in the walls of the body or along guides made of slats:

The distance from the frames to the mesh is 15-20 mm, and from the mesh to the bottom 80-100 mm. At the bottom of the hive there is a retractable tray with sides, 40-50 mm high, covered inside with film. The rear door is equipped with two window locks.

In a bee hive of this design, it is convenient to treat insects from varroatosis with herbs - tansy, wormwood, without causing them such harm as when using chemical medications. Treatment is best carried out after pumping out honey, in early August, before or during feeding the bees for the winter. By this time, there is no drone brood, and the fading tansy becomes most effective for treating varroatosis. To do this, fill the tray at the bottom of the hive to the brim with finely chopped grass, having previously smeared the film with vegetable oil, and leave it for two to three days. Depending on the degree of damage to the bee colony by varroa, this procedure is repeated two or three times. After each time, the tray is cleaned of tansy and mites, and the contents are burned.

After autumn feeding bees and treatment for varroa, when preparing families for wintering, remove the net from the hive, clear the tray of debris and put them back in the hive. In the spring, at the first opportunity, carefully open the door, insert the mesh, take out the tray with the waste, lightly wipe the bottom of the hive and close the door (the procedure for cleaning the bottom instead of replacing it).

The increased sub-frame space improves the wintering conditions for bees (some beekeepers place hives on empty store extensions), it helps to avoid damage by wax moths. The back door of the main body allows you to ventilate the hive more often in hot summers, and, if necessary, insulate the space under the frame.

Double-hull structures are those bee hives that are suitable for keeping strong families, since insects develop better in them, swarm less and are more productive. Therefore, this type of hive is the most common in Central Russia. Hives of this system are used quite successfully in Siberia and Far East, where a large honey yield forces beekeepers to further increase its volume with housings or store extensions.

In double-hull hives, it is easier to assemble a nest for the winter using honeycombs from the second body. At the same time, the area of ​​the honeycombs in both buildings is slightly larger (540 dm2) compared to the hive described above.

The disadvantages of this design of hives in beekeeping include the fact that working with its buildings is physically difficult.

Speaking about the types of double-body hives, there are designs with two and three magazine extensions.

Double-hull hive with two magazine extensions. Its kit includes a detachable bottom, two housings containing 10 frames measuring 435x300 mm each, two ten-frame extensions, a roof liner, a roof and a feeder. The internal dimensions of the case and magazine extension are 450x375-380 mm, height, respectively, 330 and 165 mm. The thickness of the walls of the body, magazine and bottom is 35 mm, the walls of the roof liner are 25 mm. The design of the roof, roof cover, bottom and other parts is similar to the design of the corresponding parts of a double-hull hive.

To accommodate in early spring and in the fall of an average family, one building for 10 nesting frames is quite enough. At the same time, there is no need to reduce the nests of bee families in such hives (they are left to winter on 10 honeycombs) and use side insulation. To build up bees for honey collection and store honey for an average-sized family, 20 nesting combs, which fit into two buildings, and two store extensions are enough. However, all this applies only to families of average strength, which, of course, cannot suit the beekeeper.

In reality, most colonies, during normal development, quickly increase in strength and require a larger hive. Therefore, the number of stores in this case has to be increased. During wintering, it is better to leave such colonies in two buildings, when the upper building is occupied with food, and the club of bees is located under it in the lower building. The result is an artificially created sub-frame space that promotes better gas exchange and humidity levels. In the spring, depending on the condition of the family, the nest is either reduced to one building or left in two buildings, reducing the space in the upper building with insert boards and insulation.

The same fully applies to the two previous types of beehives. At the time of flowering of the gardens, usually both buildings are occupied by a family and it is necessary to either install a third building, or store extensions, or make layering to prevent swarming.

It is believed that modern design The hive of a multi-body system is most similar to a hollow. But it is purely external similarity. If in a hollow bees build a nest from top to bottom, then in risers it is the other way around - it is built up with bodies from bottom to top. The hollow has never known foundation, the placement of bodies at cross-sections, the division of the nest by frames into floors with interfloor gaps, the reduction and expansion of the nest. Regarding the verticality of the nest, it can be noted that the bee colony is a plastic organism. In summer, the direction of nest growth is not of fundamental importance.

With proper care, it develops well both in a hive and in a multi-hull hive.

Double-hull hive with three magazine extensions. Each body and extension of this type of hive can accommodate 10 frames. The dimensions of the nesting frames on the outside are 435x230 mm, the magazine frames are 435x145 mm. Frames are made in the same way as for a multi-body hive. total area nesting and store combs are approximately 620 dm2. This volume of the hive allows you to maintain strong bee colonies and mix about 36 kg of honey at a time only in store-bought extensions. The cases and magazine extensions are 450 mm long and 375 mm wide (more often they make 380, adding 5 mm for ease of maintenance). Case height 250 mm, extensions - 165 mm. The thickness of their walls is at least 35 mm. Each building has one upper entrance measuring 120x10 mm, equipped with a small landing board and a valve.

Look at the photo - the beehive kit, in addition to two bodies and three magazine extensions, includes a bottom, a roof cover, a feeder and a roof:

The detachable bottom is made of boards 35 mm thick. In its harness there is an oblong taphole measuring 250 x 10 mm. The lumen of the taphole can be reduced or closed completely with a valve. The bottom is equipped with a retractable metal mesh and a tray for collecting varroa mites. The mesh with the tray is placed through a hole in the rear wall, closed with a flat sleeve. The roof and roof structures of this modern bee hive are similar to those of the multi-body type. To make one hive, 0.22 m3 of boards are required.

The latest design of a multi-body bee hive (with photo)

A standard multi-body hive consists of four interchangeable bodies with a removable bottom. Each case contains 10 frames measuring 435 x 230 mm with extended side bars (37 mm), which interlock and allow you to avoid the need for dividers during transportation. The four-body hive has largest area honeycomb (672 dm2). Multi-body hives help to facilitate the beekeeper’s work and increase his productivity, since the beekeeper, when expanding or contracting nests, operates not with individual frames, but with entire buildings.

To increase the performance of bees during the honey harvest period, there is either a round one with a diameter of 25 mm on top of the front wall of each housing. or a flat, 150x10 mm diameter, taphole. The lower entrance is made only in the bottom trim and has a height of 20 mm; in length it can reach the width of the front wall. An insert is provided in this opening to reduce the tap hole.

As shown in the photo, this type of hive has a bottom design that provides increased space

It is necessary to place a mesh subframe (claw catcher) used in the fight against bee varroa. Arrival board on hinges. During transportation or carrying of hives, the lower entrance is completely covered with a landing board, which for this purpose is installed from a horizontal position to a vertical one. In nomadic beekeeping, the hive kit includes a ventilation frame, which, when transporting bees, is placed in the lid or mounted on the lid. The roof liner must have a height of at least 100 mm and a wall thickness of 25 mm. In the cold season, a pillow or straw mat is placed in the lid placed on the body, and when feeding the bees, a feeder is installed in it. For the passage of bees from the nest to the feeder with sugar syrup in wooden ceiling a corresponding hole is provided. In practice, the height of the roof liner is determined in such a way that the installed feeder can be well insulated in it. A magazine extension, if available, is also quite suitable for this purpose.

This newest hive design has ventilation holes in the front and rear walls of the roof, which are blocked on the inside by a metal mesh. The roof is covered on top roofing iron. To make one hive, 0.265 m3 of wood is required. Multi-body hive can be equipped with a large number of cases. Intensive technology involves constant changing of housings, so this work can only be carried out by hardy and physically strong people.

Practice shows that cases with 230 mm frames are more convenient for work. During the period of spring colony development, bees create more compact nests in such buildings, in which the queens sow almost the entire area of ​​the comb with eggs and it is easier for the bees to maintain a normal temperature on them.

The advantages of the multi-body hive design are:

• rapid development of bee colonies in spring;
• quick adjustment of frames with foundation;
• the ability to easily change the volume of the nest;
• satisfactory wintering in a nest close in shape to natural, with a large supply of food at the top and free space at the bottom.

Despite the undoubted advantages, the design of hives of this type also has disadvantages:

• extremely hard work with frames using intensive beekeeping technology;
• insufficient ventilation;
• lack of free space in the nest, forcing the beekeeper to remove part of the frames from it during inspections, which creates additional stress in the bee colony;
• difficulties in supporting two families;
• difficulties in monitoring the building frame and preparing the colony for swarming.

Technical difficulties include the fit of cases, especially without folds, difficulties during transportation for the same reasons, and instability.

Loungers come with 16 frames (loungers), 20 and 24 frames (rarely). During the period of growth and development of the family, the nest of the sunbed hive is expanded by placing the combs on the side in a horizontal direction. The volume of the nest in the hive-lounger design is regulated by a dividing board (diaphragm). These hives have a number of advantages over double-hulled hives. In the beds, bee colonies are cared for in the same way as in 12-frame hives, but the rearrangement of heavy extensions is not required. In addition, in spring and winter, this hive can contain two families, fenced off with a blank partition and having separate entrances.

Video: Types of hives

When making hives, boards 40-45 mm thick are used for the front and rear walls of the body and extension, and 30-35 mm for the side walls. Big size housings in a hive of this type make it possible to well insulate the nests of bee families from the sides in the spring-autumn period and for the winter. In the front wall of the body there are two tap holes - lower and upper (or two lower and two upper, shifted from the center). The bottom of the hive is permanent (tightly nailed to the walls of the body), made of boards at least 30 mm thick into tongue and groove. The landing board for bees is the edge of the bottom, protruding 35-50 mm beyond the front wall of the body. The hive kit also includes a ceiling, insert boards, a roof liner with a wall thickness of 25 mm and a roof, which is covered with roofing iron and equipped with ventilation holes.

The advantages of a hive-lounger, especially on a large number of frameworks include:

• the ability to build up greater strength in honey harvesting in bee colonies;
• the absence of work associated with rearranging the buildings, allowing physically weak and elderly people to serve the hives of this system;
• free access to any nest frame, simplifying control over the building frame and the condition of the family at any time;
• less swarming compared to hives of other systems;
• the ability to build a large number of combs on foundation;
• the ability to make layering directly in the hive, without searching for the queen bee;
• the ability to keep two families or a family and a nucleus in one hive in winter with mutual heating;
• the ability to keep two families with wormy queens in a hive, uniting them before honey collection.

Despite all the positive characteristics of hives of this type, the beds also have disadvantages:

• the 300 mm frame is small in height, as in the Dadanov hive, but installing a magazine extension greatly complicates maintenance;
• wintering, as in a 12-frame hive, is bad for the same reasons;
• spring development in horizontal hives it's getting worse than in narrow-high ones.

The Ukrainian hive-lounger differs from the usual one in that the frames of a standard size are placed vertically. The frames have wall dividers protruding dimensions 6 mm frames on the bottom bar. There are no shops provided. The undoubted advantage of the Ukrainian sunbed hive is its narrow, high frame, which allows the winter club of bees to rise upward without overcoming gaps in the food.

However, the disadvantages of this type of bee hive include:

• less durable attachment of honeycombs to the slats;
• poor alignment of the honeycombs at the bottom of the frames, the appearance of mold on them in winter;
• difficulties in inspecting and cleaning the bottom, involving the removal of honeycombs, causing stress and injury to the bees;
• poor pumping of honey in a standard honey extractor.

Many beekeepers find bed hives very cumbersome and prefer hives of other systems.

Alpine hive- this is a multi-body hive, but unlike traditional designs it has only one entrance and does not have dividing grids or holes for ventilation of the nest.

Although the external description is similar to the 4-body hive, R. Delon's version, the Alpine version is a fundamentally new design.

The model of the Alpine hive was a hollow, dry wooden trunk (hollow). Fresh air, enriched with oxygen, enters from below, and, heated by the bee club, rises upward. As a result of the vital activity of bees, the air is saturated with carbon dioxide, vapors and metabolic products and, already wet and heavy, descends down and leaves the hive.

In this case, the ceiling feeder plays a role air cushion and prevents the formation of condensation. At the same time, the 30 mm thick insulating roof above the ceiling protects the bees from overheating and cooling.

During honey harvest, when the height of the hive is more than 1.5 m, the microclimate in it is maintained by increasing the number of buildings, in accordance with the strength of the bee family. In this way, an approach to the ideal natural living conditions of bees is achieved. The Alpine hive provides favorable wintering, intensive early development and high performance bee families. In unfavorable years, the honey yield of an alpine hive is noticeably more contrasting compared to traditional hive systems.

For example, in 1988, at one of the apiaries in the Carpathians, honey production from each of the 50 Dadan-Blatt hives amounted to 2 kg, and from alpine hives - 22 kg. In each of the Alpine hives, the bees lined up honeycombs with three frames (24 frames), but in the Dadan-Blatt hives - none.

The Alpine hive turned out to be not only very productive, but also very convenient to work with, easy to manufacture and cheap. Compared to other systems, the manufacture of an Alpine hive uses 2-3 times less wood and does not use expensive tin-coated wire, because there is no need to reinforce the frames. R. Delon places the hives in blocks - four in one line, with a common bottom and common roof, as strong winds rage in the Alps. In addition, block placement allows you to place 100 beehives on an area of ​​0.4 hectares. In other words, the space is used approximately four times more economically. Another advantage of the Alpine hive is that the bodies are lightweight. The body with full comb weighs 16 kg, of which honey weighs approximately 11 kg.

A significant advantage of the Alpine hive is its frame. Their size corresponds to the maximum ability of bees to fill them with nectar, and at the same time they are strong enough not to break when the honey extractor operates at high speeds.

The hive is compact and during transportation allows it to optimally fill the volume of a trailer or platform. In the autumn-winter period, the Alpine hive does not need additional insulation with pillows and matting - it overwinters perfectly covered only with a plastic bag.

Designer R. Delon is pleased with his brainchild and almost independently maintains a thousand hives located in colonies in the Alps in a 120-kilometer zone. True, sometimes they don’t have time to pump out the honey in time and then they have to do this work in the winter.

Speaking about which hives are the best, it is worth considering another option - a combined sectional one.

How a sectional beehive works

A combined sectional hive consists of sections tightly adjacent to each other. This allows you to unlimitedly increase its volume in any plane, so it combines the advantages of vertical and horizontal hives.

How does a sectional hive work? Each section consists of a nesting body, one or two magazine extensions, a multifunctional basement store and a universal dividing partition. The universal housing has inner dimensions 450x315 mm, which allows you to use frames of three sizes - 435x300, 300x300 and 300x435 mm - in the amount of 8 or 12 pieces.

A distinctive feature of a combined sectional hive is a universal dividing partition located between the sections when connecting them into blocks. Using it correctly, you can solve a whole range of problems. You can insert a dividing grid, a perforated or blind partition, a bee eliminator, or glass into it.

The number of sections in a block depends on the task at hand. For example, a single-parent colony occupies at least three sections in the summer and winters in one. To preserve heat, sections for the winter are combined into blocks of three or four pieces.

For two-uterine housing, at least five sections are required. With a multi-family hive (the hive allows this possibility) - the number of sections is unlimited. The hive is easy to use and allows you to use any modern methods breeding and keeping bees.

Video: Hive designs various types

Wild bees can find and equip a home for themselves in the first hollow they come across. Their cultivated counterparts are more demanding about their place of residence, so you will have to build a comfortable hive for them, in which they will not only live, but also work for your benefit. By spending a small amount on materials and a couple of days on work, you will get safe home, which will more than pay for itself in the first season.

Types of hives

You can’t just take a couple of boards and build a hive with your own hands without a drawing; after all, this is not a dog kennel. First you must decide on the type. There are only two of them, and they will become the basis for further modifications, so to speak, basic models. We are talking about horizontal and vertical hives. The first is popularly called a sunbed, and the second is a riser. Both have pros and cons, so we can't say with certainty which design is better.

A vertical model can have two or three tiers, each of which can accommodate about ten frames. It is possible to increase capacity by installing additional stores or buildings.

dimensions of frame parts
stages of frame manufacturing fig. 1-4

The horizontal model is shaped like an elongated box. The initial volume can be increased using new housings that are mounted on the side.

We build a hive with our own hands according to drawings

Before starting construction, you need to think through everything to the smallest detail. Do not forget that bees are very delicate and demanding of their living conditions. They cannot tolerate drafts and sudden temperature changes, so their home must be well insulated. It is also worth considering the possibility of further expansion. Beekeeping is a very exciting process, so it is unlikely that you will limit yourself to one hive.

The design of a bee house should provide its inhabitants with protection from heat in summer and from cold in winter. For this purpose it should be possible additional insulation on the sides and on the ceiling.

drawing - do-it-yourself double-hull hive
drawing - typical beehive bed

blueprints
shop with frames

To build a hive with your own hands according to the drawings, you will need to purchase materials. First of all, these are, of course, boards. They must be well dried, and it is better if it is soft wood. The boards should not have knots or roughness, so they are sanded before starting work.

Basic sizes

We offer universal sizes that are suitable for hives of any type and design. They assume a distance between the mediastinums of adjacent frames of 37.5 mm, and passages for bees - 12.5 mm. When installing an additional housing, the distance between the lower strips and the socket frames should be 10 mm. The gap from the back and front walls to the frames is 7.5 mm, and between the bottom and the bottom bar of the nesting frame is 20 mm.

stages of making a hive rice (1-4)
stages of making a hive Fig. 5-8

stages of making a hive Fig. 9-14
manufacturing

The roof can be made of boards 20 mm wide or a double layer of plywood. The important part is the strapping. Its size is 455x455 mm, and it is made from a board 15 mm wide. Along the perimeter of the trim, strips are attached, the purpose of which is to prevent the lid from sliding off. To protect against weather conditions, all parts are coated with oil.

The bottom is made in the form of a simple frame. Its size is adjusted to the size of the hive. Some models have a removable bottom, but this design has poor sealing.

horizontal hive type
vertical type

The walls are made of boards whose width is 20 mm. In addition to nails, for greater strength it is advisable to connect them with tongues and grooves.

An important component The bee's house is the diaphragm. It separates the nest from the rest of the space. It uses 10 mm plywood, along the perimeter of which the sides are fixed. The diaphragm should be easy to remove and attach. A different wood is used for the frames. Ideal option there will be birch or aspen. The approximate amount of material can be calculated using a do-it-yourself hive drawing.

As mentioned earlier, you are unlikely to limit yourself to one hive. Beekeeping is a very exciting activity, so you can make your own adjustments to the next model based on your personal experience.

Making hives is a simple but painstaking process. It requires patience, attention, diligence, and, of course, knowledge about making bee houses with your own hands from the apiary owner.

In order for the bees to be productive and not suffer from weather conditions, we need to provide them normal conditions existence.

Let's look together at whether it is possible to make comfortable sunbeds at home using drawings, what is the technology for their manufacture, what sizes they can be, and what equipment is needed for this.

Drawings for hives

There is a huge variety of houses for bees; they can be made from various materials and have different parameters, therefore, based on the specific situation, it is better to try to make it yourself. It is better to use drawings for hives that have already been tested by experienced beekeepers. By choosing it correctly, you can rest assured about the comfort of honey insects and the ease of using a mobile apiary, a couple of hives nearby country house or an apiary to obtain honey, wax and propolis in large quantities. When choosing a hive drawing, you need to consider the following factors:

• how many people will work in the apiary;
• features of relief and climatic conditions;
• the number of bee colonies at the moment and planned in the future.

The structure you make must be stable and reliable, it must have a constant temperature, since the wind and the amplitude of air temperatures, especially in spring, have a detrimental effect on insects.

When choosing a drawing, I take into account how many assistants the beekeeper will have. If the owner plans to work in the apiary without helpers, then he will have to tinker with multi-hull hives; it will be more convenient to use a hive-bed.

Experienced beekeepers prefer to install hives of different designs in the apiary, since each of them performs its own task.

Information for beginners

When choosing a drawing, first decide on the purpose of the hive.

• If you plan to breed queens and obtain royal jelly, make beehives - beds.
• To obtain honey and wax and intensively increase families, it is better to construct multi-hull hives that resemble a hollow tree.
• For those who have no experience in beekeeping, it is better to start with Dadan hives.

Making hive frames:

The frames of the 12 frame and 10 frame hives are the same. Taking into account the dimensions (43.5 cm / 30 cm), frames are knocked down from dry slats using a hammer and nails. Small holes are made in the slats located on the sides; for this it is better to use an awl. The wire is pulled and secured using pliers and an awl. In the last hole, the wire is carefully secured with a loop. Regardless of which hive the frame will be installed in - 10 frame, 12 frame, 24 frame, etc., it will have to be waxed, after which it is ready to be installed in the hive.

Making a 12 frame hive with your own hands

A 12 frame hive is similar to a 10 frame hive. For its manufacture, the same drawings, the same tools and equipment are used. The entrances are also similar to the 10 frame design.

Beekeepers are well aware that the most optimal hive option is the design of Charles Dadant, which has remained recognized and popular for centuries. Or rather, not the design itself, I am the result of the fruitful work of him, his successors and followers, for a long time engaged in improving the shape and size of the hive.

The Dadan design has 10 to 12 frames. Beginner beekeepers prefer to use it, since it is possible to combine a multi-hull hive and a hive - a lounger.

How to make a hive with 24 frames with your own hands

24 frame loungers are so called because their frames lie horizontally. They are easier to maintain, and problems with their installation can be resolved quickly.

1. The beds are convenient for double-parent families; their large sizes make the “houses” spacious.
2. The bees in the 24 frame hives are preparing for winter by producing more honey.
3. Such sun loungers are serviced faster than a regular riser.

You can grow in them large families, capable of providing honey for both the owner and themselves and the queen with good egg production.

The main disadvantage of the 24 frame design is its heavy weight and bulkiness.

Making 24 frame loungers with your own hands

The work of creating a hive consists of making an oblong box with a strong bottom and a removable top, the internal size of which should correspond to 16–24 frames. To work you will need:

• drawings (drawing of a beehive-lounger or diagram of the arrangement of an evidence-lounger).
• wood (pine, linden, aspen, etc.), plywood, slate, frames, etc.
• equipment: workbench or table specially equipped for these purposes, tools.

Using the drawings, the parts are cut out; for ease of design, all dimensions are strictly observed. The side walls are attached to the assembled bottom, after which the front and rear walls are installed. The walls are attached to the workpiece with nails, and tap holes are cut from below. A landing board and a valve are attached to the tapholes. The lid on top is attached to hinges and sheathed with roofing felt, tin, or covered with a fragment of a slate sheet. The ventilation holes are closed on the inside with mesh.

The finished product is opened with drying oil and painted. On the side, for ease of rearrangement, side handles are attached.

Making hives from modern materials

Today, lightweight, reliable and practical materials– polycarbonate, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, and others. Such hives differ from wooden structures; they have a number of advantages and disadvantages. You need to weigh the pros and cons, and settle on the material:

• reliable;
• durable;
• resistant to bad weather, precipitation and strong winds;
• affordable.

If you want to make a comfortable house for bees with your own hands from modern materials, try building a structure from plywood or foam plastic. This will be an economical and correct decision.

Styrofoam hive

The size of the hive will depend on how many frames it will be designed for - 10, 12, 16, or 24. This number must be multiplied by 3.75 to obtain the desired width of the structure. To calculate the length, you need to add 1.4 cm to 10, 12, or another number corresponding to the number of frames.

The height of such multi-body foam structures is calculated as the sum of the height of the frame and folds.

To build multi-hull houses for bees from foam plastic, and they are made multi-hull due to their lightness and mobility, you first need to make a drawing indicating all the exact dimensions. You will need a saw, a felt-tip pen and a ruler to cut out sheets that match the dimensions of the drawing. Since the corners of the cut foam sheet can be sharp, they are sanded.

To connect parts it is better to use liquid nails and self-tapping screws. The bottom is made of galvanized materials that are resistant to corrosion, rotting and destruction. To prevent the light pitched roof of a foam or plywood structure from flying off from the wind, a stone or brick is placed on it. The entrances are installed as usual.

Plywood beehive

Financial resources do not always allow beginners to buy or order expensive, strong hives. Often they have to build structures with their own hands from simple materials, for example, plywood. The material is affordable, lightweight, reliable and environmentally friendly. Unfortunately, this design is short-lived and is unlikely to serve the owner for more than 8 years. But during this time, the beekeeper will probably acquire more solid and reliable hives than those made of plywood.

As with any hive made from another material, a plywood hive must have a bottom, side walls, a lid, an entrance, etc. You will need six small sheets of plywood, construction adhesive, screws, a drill and simple tools. You can focus on the dimensions 25/20/3 cm. The joints are glued together with glue or secured with self-tapping screws, the foam is fixed between the planks. Don't forget the hole for the entrance and the landing strip. To give plywood strength and durability, it can be painted acrylic paint.

Making your own “horned” hive

The half-frame design is popular among “weekend beekeepers” when a short time you need to do as much work as possible. They consider sunbeds to be heavy and uncomfortable, because servicing multi-hull structures alone requires a lot of time and effort.

Hives of the Lecina/Palivody system, or, as they are also called, “horned” hives, are an economical and easy-to-maintain option. Their manufacturing technology is different in that the designs do not have shield gluing, which often causes operational problems.

When making them yourself, stock up on a solid board, for assembly you will need screws, and the main tool will be a circular saw. The advantage of hives is considered to be a minimum of milling and joining.

It is convenient that the size of the hive is small - it can be made into 8 half-frames. Its small size is a big plus when transporting; it is convenient to transport it in a car trailer, or carry it under your arm.

For beginners, it is better to use drawings in their work. Dimensions of the bars: upper – 9.5 mm, and lower – about 7 mm. There is no need to use large sizes; the design is already quite strong and stable.

Advantages of this design:

1. The hive is always dry, which is important for the health of the bees.
2. The hive is light, about 20 kg, which is important for the elderly and beekeepers with bad backs.
3. The design is considered an economical option.
4. You can work with the bodies, and to detect the offspring, you just need to lift the body.
5. Bees in such hives overwinter well; the club gathers earlier than in other hives and disperses later.

By listening to the recommendations of experienced beekeepers, you can avoid unexpected moments and put into practice a piece of centuries-old experience. It must be remembered that keeping bees is not only an opportunity to make a considerable profit, but also a pleasant pastime, so you need to do it with pleasure and a good mood.

They are accustomed to hiding their homes in hollows or dense tree crowns. Therefore, in order for insects to acclimatize faster in new environment, experienced people are trying to create optimal conditions for bees to reproduce and create the most delicious food. In this article you will learn how to create a hive with your own hands, what are the best materials for bee housing and arrangement options.

Main design elements

Before you create a design sketch, you need to know what a bee hive is made of. This is due to the fact that the beekeeper is trying to create housing for insects that supports their biological needs. However, this design will not always be convenient for bees.
Mostly, All hive structures consist of a body, two compartments, a lid and a magazine. Outwardly, it looks like an elongated box with a dense roof and bottom.

The buildings consist of walls. Dimensions depend on the type of structure. There may be several of them. There are bee entrances on the walls.

The store may not be necessary, however, it is suitable for preservation when honey collection occurs. There is also a liner (another version of the magazine, but without recesses). It is located between the roof and the top. It serves as insulation. You can also install a bee feeder in the roof liner.

The bottom is located under the body and can be removable or non-removable. The first option allows you to properly care for the bees if they need medical attention. The non-removable one forms a ledge that serves as a landing platform.
Some beekeepers create a ceiling that will retain heat inside the hive. You can place it at the top of the nest above the frames.

The roof is the protection and main element of the hive. It is able to shelter insects from atmospheric phenomena. The roof can be flat or gable. The first allows you to transport the hive.

The frame is used to arrange honeycombs for bees. It consists of an upper and lower bar, as well as two side strips. The frames are equipped with dividers and are located in the bar on top.

How to choose materials and tools for creation

To create the hive, only natural and high-quality materials are used. In the following sections, you will be able to understand what is needed to build a nest, as well as learn the advantages and disadvantages of each material.

Most popular materials

The first and quite popular material for creating a hive is tree. It “breathes” well and releases steam outside. Basically, wood is chosen, such as, and. You can also take poplar or aspen. Wood has a low level of thermal conductivity, protecting bees in hot and cold weather.

Important! To make hives, choose a material that is free of rotten areas, knots and cracks.

The only drawback of this material is its ability to retain moisture that enters the hive.

Plywood hives are characterized as environmentally friendly and durable. They are quite heavy and can withstand transportation well. Plywood is superior to wood in terms of thermal insulation and dryness.
To do this, the plywood needs to be coated with special acrylic paint and the walls of the hive insulated with polystyrene foam.

In such hives, bees spend less energy on heating, because everything is created inside comfortable conditions for living and honey production.

Many beekeepers choose polystyrene foam because it is cheap and has a high level of thermal insulation. It is easy to work with and carry out repairs.
The only drawbacks of this material- low strength indicators and an unpleasant aftertaste of honey, since bees can taste polystyrene foam.

If you want to produce honey, but have a small amount of money available, then you can make a beehive from foam plastic. The design is quite lightweight, retains warmth in winter and keeps cool in summer.

The only drawback is painting the finished hive to protect the foam from weather conditions.
Polyurethane foam used for insulation of buildings. It has a low level of thermal conductivity, but this property will be useful for creating a hive. Polyurethane foam does not allow moisture to pass through, does not rot, does not react to solvents and protects the nest from microbes and fungi. The material is quite durable and mice will not be able to damage it.

The only drawback is flammability. But this can be corrected with an additional ventilation system.

Polycarbonate is characterized by strength, lightness and durability. The material is suitable for keeping insects, as it can withstand low and high temperatures and is not afraid of exposure to direct sun.
An optimal microclimate for bees will be maintained inside a nest made of this material.

List of Tools for Making a Bee House

To create a hive you will need the following tools:

• Axe
• Hacksaws of different sizes
• Hammer
• Drills
• Planer
• Bit
• Planer
• Marking tool
• Power tools
• Corner studs
• PVA glue"
• Nesting frame (can be borrowed from an experienced beekeeper).

How to make a beehive with your own hands

Now that you have chosen for yourself optimal material and collected everything necessary tools, let's get down to the most important thing. In the following sections you will learn how to assemble a bee hive from different materials.

Wood

To make a hive, choose wooden boards with humidity fluctuating around 15-16%. Depending on the number and size of the body, the amount of material is selected. It is better to take drawings from experienced beekeepers.

Important! Stick to the basic parameters of the main elements to simplify operation.

Housing for the hive

You will also need 4 cm thick boards to make the bottom and body. We make grooves in the boards to connect the walls of the body.

We produce planks measuring 18x4 mm.

We connect the boards into panels, lubricating the grooves with PVA glue. It is very important to press them tightly together so that no gaps form.
And so we make 4 walls. The body must be assembled in the form of panels, which can be connected using a tongue and groove casein glue. Dimensions of the rear and front walls are 605x320 mm. Side walls - 530x320 mm. We make grooves in the side walls 5 mm deep and 20 mm wide.

Important! Distance between grooves-450 mm.

Let's start creating the back and front walls. They should be assembled into temporary shields made of boards (thickness - 15mm). Wall dimensions - 675x500 mm. The dimensions of the outer side walls are 560x500 mm.

On permanent place The boards of the outer walls must be nailed individually to fit correctly into place. We fix the inner walls with glue, the corners must be fixed strictly straight. It is better to place the lower edge of the case horizontally.

Lower and upper trays

The bottom tray must be made according to the following dimensions - 1x25 cm, positioning it at least 5 cm from the right wall of the hive. The upper tray measures 1x10 cm and should be placed at a distance of 12 cm from the right wall of the hive. Its height is 3 cm below the edge of the upper bars of the frames.
Underframe space

It is necessary to make a wedge-shaped hole in the back wall at the bottom level to make it easier to fight varroatosis. It can be closed with a liner (dimensions 45x4 cm).

Using holes for trays, you enclose the inter-wall space of the hive with small corridors made of slats. Dimensions - 1.5x2 cm.

We will nail the first layer of flooring parallel to the front inner wall of the body. The length of the floor is 65 cm. The first board must be positioned so that it protrudes beyond the body by 1 cm. We make landing boards on this protrusion. Then we nail the remaining floor boards. After this, we turn the body upside down and lay a layer of cardboard and roofing felt. The next layer of the floor is boards.

External walls

After you have made the floor and nailed the inner walls, install the outer walls. We nail each front and rear from the bottom of the body. The ends should protrude 2 cm beyond the inner side walls. At this time, we lay insulation between the walls. Holes for the tray should be cut in the front board. There should be a hole in the back wall for underframe space.

Also, for stability, it is necessary to nail linings to the corner outer walls.

At the ends of the back and front walls, which protrude 2 cm beyond the lateral internal walls, it is necessary to fill 15 cm thick side outer boards. 4x2 cm strips should be nailed along the entire perimeter of the internal walls.

On the slats of the front and back sides of the hive, you should select folds (dimensions 1x1 cm) to install the frames. The planks must be placed tightly on the insulating material.
Insulation material

To fill the space between the walls you need to use moss. It should be more withered, since such moss will fill the voids well.

Foam plastic, insulation board, cotton wool, wool and tow are also used.

Since beekeepers often have to lift the roof and put it back, the product must be lightweight. For this you need a harness. It should be made 12 cm high from boards 15 cm thick.
Above the nest under the roof it is necessary to leave a free space of 24 cm in height. In this place we place a store for a half-frame and a heating pillow.

Pillow

The pillow is placed between the sides on the canvas so that it fits snugly against the walls of the side.

The pillow occupies 1 cm above the nest. Dimensions - 75x53. The thickness of the padding is 10 cm. You can also use moss, but it is best used to insulate the side walls.

Entrance for bees

Between the bottom and the lower edge of the body it is necessary to leave 1 cm for the passage of bees and ventilation in winter time.

Did you know? It is better to paint the hive white, as this color is better remembered by insects.

From foam plastic

To make a foam beehive you will need foam leaves, self-tapping screws (5 cm), fine-grit sandpaper, water-based paint, liquid nails, a paint roller, a ruler, a screwdriver (screwdriver), a utility knife and a circular saw.

Important! All hive objects are connected in the same way as wooden bases nests for bees.

The foam sheets should have the following dimensions - 3x5 cm. We prepare a design sketch on paper and transfer it to the foam using a marker and ruler.

We cut out the structure with a utility knife, saw or hacksaw. We clean the edges with sandpaper.
We fasten the side walls with overlaps (we cut out quarters at the joints and push the walls tightly into each other). We fix the elements with liquid nails.

To secure the result, use self-tapping screws around the perimeter.

Made from polyurethane

For the body you will need 8 metal plates. Four slabs will form the outer contour, and the remaining four will form the inner contour. Spacers must be installed between opposing inner plates. External tiles should be bolted together.

TO internal parties external tiles, you need to screw on metal plates that form recesses in the body for gripping.

The base and lid are made with grooves. The slabs will be inserted into them. Metal strips are placed along the edges and the parts are connected with bolts.

Holes should be drilled along the inner and outer perimeter of the body and cover. Threaded metal rods will be inserted into them during assembly.

Bolts should be screwed onto the rods, holding the entire structure firmly. Holes should be made in the lid for pouring the mixture and a valve with a plug. They will close this hole. Bottom and roof

For the roof you need 2 rectangular parts. One should have protruding sides along the edges, the other should have a protruding rectangular interior.

The bottom is rectangular frame with a metal mesh in the middle. It is made from individual polyurethane foam blocks. They can be fastened with bolts.

You should have 4 molds for the bars. In all bars you need to put a strip of metal along the inner perimeter, which will form folds. We lay a metal mesh on them and nail them with a stapler.

It is better to place the front bar lower in height to create a gap for the tray. After casting, we use a cutter to select grooves in the inner side walls for the bottom valve. We cut it out of polycarbonate. We also place the rear block lower in height in order to insert the valve into this gap. Preparation of polyurethane foam mixture

This material is obtained as a result of reactions of polyol and polyisoconate.

When pouring the mixture, you need to correctly calculate the total mass for the process. This can be done by calculating the volume of the hive part: multiply it by the width, thickness and length. The resulting amount must be multiplied by the coefficient technological losses(1.15) and the expected density of polyurethane foam (60 kg/m2).

After processing, we assemble the form. Internal slabs installed in the grooves of the base, and plastic corners should be placed inside the plates, which will serve as folds for the frames. The corners can be secured with thick thread.

We install and secure them with screws and internal strut braces. Then we install the outer plates and secure them with bolts, placing the top of the mold with grooves on the walls. We twist it all with metal rods.

In this mold, pour the polyurethane foam mixture into the holes, but not completely, as it expands. As soon as the foam begins to appear from the hole, the mold must be closed with a valve.

We fill the molds for the lid and bottom in the same way. After filling the mold for the lid, pour a small amount of gravel into it so that the lid holds steady in gusts of wind.

The mixture hardens within 30 minutes. After this, unscrew the bolts that hold the rods. Using a wooden block and a hammer, knock down the top of the mold.

After this, we unscrew the bolts on the edges of the form, doing this little by little so as not to deform the structure. So we go two circles over all the bolts, after which we remove the spacers.
Parts of the mold are cleaned of polyurethane foam particles, and excess along the edges of the body can be removed sharp knife. After which the structure is cleaned with fine-grained sandpaper.

Then we coat the product with façade acrylic paint to protect the hive from ultraviolet radiation. This coating will not be damaged by temperature changes.

Coloring occurs within a week after production, but not earlier than after 8 hours.

Arrangement of the hive

Now you should start building a hive for bees.

In the American method of raising bees in an apiary, 5 types of insect families are created: maternal, paternal, starter, incubator and nurturing families. For this method, you need to have a beehive with 24 frames, an entrance, two diaphragms that will move freely in the hive, one blind diaphragm with a rubber band, one diaphragm with a dividing grid. A feeder and pillows are also needed.
In the fall or spring we introduce a family with a good breeding queen. In the fall, they are fed with honey and treated for varroatosis and prevented with antinosema agents. in spring

One of the most important aspects proper breeding of bees - providing a dry and warm place to keep them. To do this, you can buy ready-made bee houses. However, the problem is that used bee hives can be contaminated, and new ones are quite expensive. Alternative option May be self-production hives.

Moreover, there is nothing particularly complicated about it. Almost any beekeeper, even a beginner, with a little effort and effort, can easily make a hive with his own hands. You just need to carefully study the drawings existing structures and choose the best one for your insects suitable option taking into account the climate zone and the expected size of the future family.

Types of hives

People have been engaged in beekeeping for several centuries, and during this time a large number of beehive designs for bees have been invented. However, the entire variety of species can be divided into the following 5 groups:

• single-hull;
• multi-body cassette;
• sunbed;
• Alpine;
• Asiatic.

The simplest do-it-yourself single-hull hive is an ordinary wooden box with a removable top cover, inside which frames for honey collection are installed.

In case of increasing the productivity of the bee colony, additional wooden cassettes with frames can be installed on top, above the box. For additional protection from precipitation, the box is sometimes covered with a gable roof.

Multihull The cassette design resembles a cabinet with drawers without a bottom, in which honey collecting frames are installed. Each such box has a separate entrance, and all retractable compartments are separated from each other. This option is very popular in the USA and Canada.

Bee hive "lounger"- This horizontal design into 2 or 3 combined compartments, the dimensions of which can be changed by moving the dividing partitions. Convenient for permanent installation, but takes up a lot of space.

Alpine the design is very similar to the multi-body cassette model. The main difference is the reduced size, the absence of dividing partitions between the compartments and the presence of one wide entrance.

Main feature Asian hives is the absence of honey collection frames. Instead, crosses or cross bars are installed inside. The accumulation of honeycombs occurs from top to bottom. They are very convenient and provide simple honey collection, but are not very productive.

In our climate zone, to set up a stationary apiary, hives with two compartments with 20 frames are often used. Often, beginners prefer to use hives with 12 frames, which are lighter and more convenient to use, but have less internal volume and interfere with the growth of the bee colony.

Materials for making hives

Initially, beekeepers collected honey from wild bees in the hollows of forest trees. Then someone came up with the idea of ​​making log decks and installing them near their home. The modern hive is simplified and, more importantly, easy option decks. Therefore wood is considered the best material for making bee hives. Bees feel very comfortable in wooden houses.

Linden is considered the best type of wood for making hives. It absorbs moisture less and contains virtually no wood resins.

However, the thermal insulation properties of this tree are low and hives made from linden must be additionally insulated for the winter. In addition, linden boards are more expensive than other, more common types of wood.

Hives made of pine and spruce are much cheaper and retain heat better. But the pine smell and ability to absorb moisture make hives made from these types of wood not comfortable enough. The main advantages of houses made of pine and spruce are low cost and good ability to retain heat.

Plywood

Easy to handle and durable material for bee houses, which, however, does not withstand moisture, and therefore its outer surface must be primed and painted.

To retain heat, the inner surface of the plywood hive is covered with polystyrene foam. Plywood structures are strong and lightweight, but require annual care to provide protection from moisture.

Expanded polystyrene and foam plastic

These materials have become quite widely used for the manufacture of hives in recent years. They are easy to process, and therefore making a hive from them is much easier than from any other material.

Constructions made of polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene are very light, dry and warm. Bees feel quite comfortable in such houses. The low cost of materials makes them accessible to most beekeepers.

The disadvantages include low strength and fragility of the structure, which requires very careful handling. In addition, polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene are afraid of exposure ultraviolet rays and are destroyed over time. Therefore, to protect from solar radiation, hives made of these materials must be painted.

Polyurethane

Another modern material, which does not rot, is moisture resistant, is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation, is easy to process, retains heat well and has a small specific gravity. Polyurethane is not damaged by mice, birds and insects. Hives made from it are light and comfortable. Disadvantages include its flammability, inability to pass air and high cost.

Requirements for hive design

The main requirements for the design of bee hives are that they must provide a dry, well-ventilated and warm environment for the bees. During development own design differing from the standard options, some features should be taken into account. As practical experience shows, design dimensions must provide the following:

• the width of the top bar on the frame is 25 mm;
• between the axes of adjacent frames there should be 37.5 mm;
• the width of streets or passages for bees is 12.5 mm;
• between the side slats of the frames and the walls of the hive no more than 7.5 mm;
• from the top of the frame to the lower body and from the lower bar to the upper body there should be no less than 8 and no more than 10 mm;
• the distance from the bottom bar of the frame to the bottom of the hive body is within 20-40 mm.

These insects are especially good at distinguishing yellow, orange and blue shades, as well as White color. The roof must be painted white to reduce its heating by the sun's rays. Before painting, the surface is treated with drying oil or primer.

When using thin walls for the winter, they are insulated with reed or straw mats. You can use other insulation materials, but this option with mats is the cheapest. Compliance with these conditions will ensure the normal development of the bee colony and simple maintenance of the hive.

One of the simplest and, at the same time, effective designs for making beehives with your own hands is the “horned” hive. This model got its name due to the presence of connecting pins protruding from the corners of the body. It was invented by Mikhail Polivoda, who decided to develop a multi-tiered sectional hive that was as easy to manufacture as possible.

Each individual section consists of 4 boards, 155 wide and 22 mm thick, knocked together in a frame. To connect the sections to each other, 22x27 mm bars are fixed in the corner parts of the body, protruding 22 mm in the upper part and not reaching the edge by 17 mm in the lower part.

When the housings are stacked on top of each other, these bars connect them, creating a strong monolithic structure. The remaining gap between the bars is intended to allow disassembly using a chisel or other tool. The internal dimensions of the case are 450x300 mm.

The tightness of the joints between the connected bodies is ensured by the selection of end folds along the edges of the boards. In order to simplify the work, instead of folds inside the body, you can nail parallel bars on which the shoulders of the body frame will rest. In this case, the structure will become somewhat heavier, and the internal dimensions will be determined by the distance between these bars.

The quality of board processing is not critical. The main condition is the absence of strong roughness. The same can be said about the thickness of the board. It is important that only the internal dimensions are maintained.

The bottom is made of metal mesh with a 3x3 or 4x4 mm cell, stretched over a frame body made of boards 100 mm wide. On one of the narrow sides there is a wide taphole with a height of 22 mm. A lid with a continuous layer of boards is used as a ceiling.

In winter, for insulation, it is covered with polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam glued to a sheet of tin. After manufacturing, all sections must be primed and painted with colored paints.

The working capacity of such a “horned” hive is designed for the installation of 8 Dadan or magazine frames. The structure, assembled from several sections, is installed on a wooden platform slightly raised above the ground. The wall thickness of 25 mm provides additional insulation in the winter season.

Advantages of a “horned” hive

Most beekeepers admit that Mikhail Polivoda developed a very simple and successful design, noting that:

• making a beehive has become easier;
• any dry wood can be used as a material;
• Even wood waste can be used as bars;
• production does not require complex tools;
• the weight of the case is light, which makes it possible to move it to a new location without much difficulty;
• you can use store-bought frames or make them yourself;
• the design is inexpensive and accessible even to novice beekeepers.

As a result, the solution is practical and very comfortable to use.

Instructions for making and assembling a classic hive

Thanks to its simple and understandable design, the Dadanovsky hive was considered a classic option until recently. Its design consists of:

• several housings for installing frames;
• two stores;
• ceiling;
• liner;
• roofs;
• insert board;
• 10 or 12 frames.

Mandatory additional accessories included in the kit include a feeder, a drinking bowl and entrance barriers in the form of conical wooden plugs.

Before you make a hive with your own hands, you need to select and purchase the necessary materials, for which you can use dry linden, aspen, pine or spruce boards 30-40 mm thick, and for the lid and roof liner - 15 mm thick. The surface of the boards must be carefully processed on at least one side and at the ends. At any wooden part No more than 3 knots are allowed.

The material you can use is polystyrene foam, foam grade no lower than 40, or polyurethane. To assemble the structure, you need PVA glue or other waterproof glue with a strength of at least 20 kg/cm 2, as well as nails with a length of 10, 40 and 60 mm. The roof is covered with a layer of roofing felt or other waterproofing material. At the final stage you will need drying oil, paints and brushes.

Manufacturing of the body and magazine

For the manufacture of cases and magazines, existing boards are cut into lengths of 530 and 340 mm. Along the long ends of the boards, tongues and ridges with a width of 15 mm are selected. Shields are assembled from the prepared sections using a tongue-and-groove adhesive joint. To create the possibility of hanging frames, a fold of 11 mm wide and 20 mm deep is selected in the front and rear walls.

Along the inner edge of the side walls, it is necessary to remove a fold 16 mm wide and 10 mm deep, and along the outer side, remove a chamfer of 5x5 mm. Thanks to the presence of this fold, the magazine will be installed on the body, and the chamfer will ensure reliable removal of moisture from the walls during rain.

A fold of 24 mm wide and 10 mm high is made along the lower edge of the body and magazine. The dimensions of the shield for the side wall are 490x340 mm. IN corner connections they fit into the folds of the front and back walls.

Making a roof

The roof structure consists of a roof and a retaining frame. The roof is assembled from boards 10-15 mm thick or plywood 8-10 mm thick is used. For waterproofing, it is covered with two layers of roofing felt or waterproofing material. It is even better to use sheet aluminum or galvanized iron.

To hold the roof in a fixed position, strappings are nailed around the perimeter wooden slats 20x20 mm. It is necessary to drill ventilation holes in the end walls and cover them with a metal mesh with a 3x3 mm mesh.

Bottom assembly

The bottom of Dadanovsky hives is detachable. The shield is assembled from boards 40 mm thick with glue into a 10x20 mm tongue and groove. The outer strapping is made from a wooden block when connected into a tenon. A fold is selected along the top edge to allow installation of a magazine. The dimensions of the bottom must correspond to the dimensions of the body.

Finally

As you can see, the technology for making beehives with your own hands is not so complicated and is quite accessible. To do this, you just need to have some carpentry and joinery skills, as well as desire. As a result, you will save a decent amount, which can be used for other important things.

Return