Those who follow the changing fashion trends in the field of architecture and construction know that buildings built from environmentally friendly materials are now in trend. safe materials. These include houses built using half-timbered technology.
The method itself is by no means an innovation. Some houses in Europe built using this technology are more than five centuries old, which once again confirms the reliability of the design.
About construction technology
The basis of the building is a frame, which is assembled from wooden beams. Tenon joints make the structure strong, reliable and stable.
The wooden elements are arranged diagonally, horizontally and vertically - it looks like a lattice. The cells of the frame can be filled with almost any material - clay mixed with straw, or unbaked brick was used by architects hundreds of years ago, but now glazing the gaps is fashionable.
The ancient houses had thin walls and were quite cold in winter. With the use of modern eco-friendly solutions, this problem has been solved: the house pleases not only with its attractiveness, but also comfortable temperature inside.
This gives a lot of scope for home design: you just have to choose suitable material to fill the cells - contrasting or matching the beams.
Half-timbered buildings can be of various sizes: compact or two- or three-story house large area– the load-bearing capacity of the frame is sufficient for the construction of five floors.
Roofing pie
Standard roofing pie consists of insulation, waterproofing fabric and. Steam and wind protection can also be used.
Typically, developers strive to ensure that the project matches the original old house- that is, tiles are used as roofing. In addition to clay, on the roofs you can see cement-sand tiles, polymer-sand tiles, and others natural materials, For example, .
Tall, steep slopes, pointed shape - character traits half-timbered roofs, and all this to ensure that precipitation rolls off as quickly as possible. On steep slopes It is more difficult to install: each tile is additionally secured to the sheathing with special clamps or screws.
For the upper structure you can also use, or. By the way, when this type of construction was just emerging, there was a roof.
Transparent roof
Real Western European half-timbered timber is quite rare in our country. But high-tech houses with panoramic glazing. maybe part of the roof. Fans of this style will also like automatic shading using electrochromic or smart glasses.
Technologies for the production of glass products since the appearance of the first half-timbered houses have stepped far forward. And now the ultra-durable tempered one makes it possible to admire the stars without leaving own home, and if there is excess sunlight during the day, you can adjust the illumination by pressing a button.
The pitched roof is one of the most simple options roofing structures, the installation of which can be done with your own hands without any problems. You just need to study the main features of the technology and do everything in strict accordance with the instructions.
The design under consideration is attractive, primarily because it does not require a large number of building materials. Some serious skills and great experience They are also not needed to do this kind of work. The pitched roof has an extremely simple structure and is perfect for residential and outbuildings.
When choosing suitable angle the slope of the roof slope, it is necessary to take into account what material will be used in the future as the final roofing covering. So, if the owner chooses slate, it is best to build a slope at a slope of 35 degrees. In the case of a standing seam roof, the slope can be within 18-35 degrees.
It is better if a specialist develops the project for a pitched roof. This will greatly simplify your work home handyman. All he has to do is follow the instructions and be happy with the result.
The main material for making a pitched roof is natural wood. It is used to create sheathing, beams, rafters and other elements. As finishing coating Most often, slate and its more modern analogue called ondulin are used; tiles and other materials are often used.
Before you start installing a pitched roof on a house with your own hands, you need to calculate optimal slope roof slope.
As already noted, the main point that you need to focus on at this stage is what the finishing roofing material the owner decides to use. For example, metal tiles or the same slate retain precipitation differently than metal profiles. And all these points must be taken into account at the design and calculation stage roofing system.
It is recommended to choose a material that can independently clear itself of snow and rain in as little time as possible. a short time. It is strictly not recommended to neglect such a point as the rate of sediment removal. At one point, the roof may simply break or become severely deformed under the weight of the accumulated snow, so be as careful as possible.
In the case of using roofing felt and other rolled roofing materials, you can make minimum slope at 5-10 degrees. When using slate, it is recommended to increase the slope to 20 degrees. If the roof is covered with tiles, the minimum acceptable angle of inclination is 20-30 degrees, but it is better to aim for at least 35 degrees.
In addition to the type of finishing roofing, it is necessary to take into account the main features of the terrain in which the house is built. For example, if the building is located so that the wind can blow on its roof from all sides, the angle of inclination of the slope can be reduced. If the house is located among dense stands of tall trees, it is strongly recommended to equip steeper slopes, because Wind power alone is definitely not enough to remove all the snow.
Preparation of materials and equipment for roofing
The list of materials for the construction of a pitched roof includes the following items.
1. Wooden beams . Used for arrangement load-bearing structures. Most often, bars with a size of 150x150 mm are used; in some cases, the use of bars with a cross-section of 120x120 mm is allowed.
2. Boards. The floor of the attic space is laid out from them. They are also used for rough finishing of attic walls. Placed on a horizontal beam.
3. Slate and special nails for fastening it. If using a different finish, select the appropriate fasteners.
4. Waterproofing material. Usually this is plastic film or roofing felt.
5. Insulation. A wide variety of materials can be used. The most commonly used are polystyrene foam and mineral wool.
7. Nails for fastening structural elements.
As for tools, you will need a regular home carpentry kit, which definitely includes an ax and a hammer. Additionally you will need hacksaw and construction stapler. Kit necessary tools may vary depending on the selected roofing covering. At this point, you will have to independently navigate the work itself.
The design of a pitched roof assumes the presence of the following elements: sheathing and counter-lattice. It is best to assemble them from bars with a section of 50x50 mm.
Guide to laying beams
The beams are fixed along the top of the wall at a distance of about 75-80 cm from each other. The role of the base for the beams is traditionally performed by the Mauerlat. In some situations, a seismic belt is used.
Reinforced concrete is used to make the seismic belt. It is made from monolithic design along the top edges of all walls of the house. The seismic belt follows the contour of the external walls. Design in mandatory becomes closed. It is used to increase the resistance to incoming wind loads.
To arrange the element in question, you must first secure the formwork. Its height should be slightly higher than the height of the future seismic belt. After installing the formwork, mandatory reinforcement is performed and concrete is poured directly.
Mauerlat is made of timber. Also fixed around the perimeter external wall Houses. Serves as a support under the rafters. Promotes uniform distribution of the main loads created by the roof.
After completing the fastening of all beams, it is necessary to fasten the rafters on top of them. They will serve as the base for the top point of the pitched roof. There should be exactly as many rafters as there are floor beams used. The result should be a kind of triangle with a right angle. After this, the inclined beams are fixed. To fix them to the seismic belt, anchors are used, and the beams are fastened to the mauerlat with nails.
The construction of the roof begins with the creation of a rafter base with a slope into the rear wall of the building. Finally, the finishing roofing material is laid. For maximum ease of movement, you can lay strong boards on the rafters, and then remove them immediately before laying the roofing material.
Thermal insulation work
Order independent device pitched roof largely depends on what specific roof covering will be used as finishing. However, regardless of this moment it is necessary to pay great attention to the issue of thermal insulation, as well as moisture and vapor protection. Moisture insulation will provide protection from the harmful effects of water, which will generally increase the service life of the system.
In the past, materials such as cement-bonded slag, as well as clay concrete and other similar materials were used to insulate the roof. However, nowadays we hardly hear about them. They have many weak qualities, including low moisture resistance, poor thermal insulation qualities, etc.
Today for insulation single-pitched roofs more advanced ones are used complex materials. They are distinguished by their relatively affordable cost, high efficiency and ease of installation.
Before proceeding with the installation of thermal insulation material, it is necessary to install waterproofing. If the thickness of the thermal insulation layer is less than the thickness of one rafter, moisture insulation must be laid over the rafters. If the thickness of the thermal insulation layer corresponds to a similar indicator for rafters, the film should be placed along the upper edges of the beams installed for the required elongation of the rafter legs.
The waterproofing is fixed across the slopes with an overlap of about 10 cm. Leave at least a 5 cm gap between the roof and the waterproofing; to create this, prepare bars with a cross-section of 5x5 cm in advance.
Unpack the insulation, wait 15-20 minutes, and then proceed to further work. You need to wait so that the thermal insulation has time to adapt to the surrounding conditions. Cut the insulation into pieces of the required size and lay it between the rafters.
The material is placed at random. When cutting, take into account the fact that the width of one slab should be approximately 2.5-3 cm greater than the distance between adjacent rafters. Be sure to maintain a small gap between the waterproofing material and the thermal insulation. To do this, use the previously mentioned blocks.
Proceed with attaching the vapor barrier material. It is placed at the bottom of the rafters and secured with galvanized flat head nails. A construction stapler and corresponding staples are also suitable for fastening. The vapor barrier material is laid with a 10-centimeter overlap. The joints must be secured with metallized adhesive tape.
Installation instructions for sheathing
The sheathing will hold the finishing roof covering in place. This structural element rests on the counter-lattice. The latter is attached to the rafters. Typically, bars with a cross-section of 5x5 cm are used to assemble the lathing. The counter-lattice is assembled from the same bars.
Experts do not recommend assembling the sheathing from knotty, low-quality boards. This is not the most reliable material. It may simply break under the pressure of snow. From use raw boards You should also abstain, because as the amount of moisture in the composition decreases, their size will change, due to which the structure will rapidly begin to loosen and noticeably weaken, and in the end it may even collapse.
Most often, slate is used to cover a pitched roof, so further stages of the technology will be discussed using its example. When working with other materials, do not forget to make the required changes to the order of their installation.
Corrugated sheets are laid on a transverse sheathing, assembled so that each sheet rests on 4 bars. The first block should be under the bottom lap, the next 2 bars are responsible for supporting the central part of the roofing sheet, and the last block supports the top part of the roofing element. The bars should be installed at approximately the same distance. For example, if a slate sheet has a length of 175, place the bars in increments of about 44 cm.
If you use a different finishing coating, changes will also have to be made to the design of the sheathing. For example, it is recommended to place ondulin on continuous sheathing, A roll materials And soft tiles They are best combined with a base made of plywood sheets. Be sure to follow the sheathing installation technology designed specifically for your roofing material. Otherwise, the service life and overall reliability of the roof may be significantly reduced.
Laying the final roofing covering
The process of installing a roofing covering will be considered using the example of the already mentioned slate. You can choose any suitable one for a single-pitched roofing structure material and lay it using the appropriate technology. Start installing the sheets on the leeward side. The upper elements of the flooring must overlap the lower ones. Most often, fastening begins with the fact that the starting sheet of slate is laid near the gable overhang, then 2 more sheets of the first row are laid, after which 2 sheets of the 2nd row and 1 sheet of the 1st are laid out, etc.
Make sure that the vertical overlap does not extend beyond 120-200 mm. The standard horizontal overlap is equal to one wave. The sheets should be laid so that the side parts of the slate of the top layer coincide as much as possible with the side parts of the sheets located below. Angles slate sheet need to be cut, otherwise distortions will form at the convergence points of the 4 sheets.
However, breaking off these corners is strictly not recommended. This can lead to a significant decrease in the strength of the material and the growth of cracks. As a result, the service life of the roof will be noticeably reduced. Corners can be cut circular saw or a hacksaw. The same tools are also used for cutting sheets. All sections must be painted over.
Thus, there is nothing overly complicated in the construction of a pitched roof. Follow the instructions, do not forget the main rules and everything will definitely work out. Good luck!
Video - Do-it-yourself installation of a pitched roof
In this article I want to tell you how a simple pitched roof is erected. Why did I call it simple? Simply because she roof truss consists only of rafters. No racks, struts, braces, etc. there is no. This type of roof is most often used in the construction of small garages, sometimes bathhouses, various extensions to the house, any outbuildings, etc.
In general, when you read in the literature or on the Internet about pitched roofs, you usually see the following statement - supposedly they are the cheapest, easiest to construct and reliable.
Regarding cheapness and simplicity, I absolutely agree, but as for reliability, I’m willing to bet.
Of course, maybe I live in the wrong climate zone, but in my practice I have never seen a roof with two or more slopes (for example, hip, hip, etc.) collapse on a private low-rise building. All the collapses that have ever occurred were on pitched roofs. They are almost always caused by snow loads plus the weight of people who work on the roof (for example, throwing off the same snow).
So why is this happening. I think everything is simple here. Often developers do not take a very serious and thoughtful approach to the construction of a pitched roof. Basically, one of three mistakes is made, or several at once:
An unacceptably small angle of inclination of the slope is made;
Boards with an inappropriate cross-section are used as rafters;
There is too much space between the rafters.
We will now look at how to avoid these mistakes using the example of building a pitched roof over a garage.
Let's say we have a box made of foam concrete blocks with a wall thickness of 30 cm. Its dimensions are shown in Fig. 1.
Picture 1
Having started laying blocks, we must already decide on the angle of inclination of the roof slope. What should you be guided by here?
I think many people know that for each roofing covering there is a minimum slope angle at which it can be used. These values are presented in Table 1, compiled on the basis of SNiP II-26-76* (“Roofs” - updated version 2010):
Table 1.
I am sure that some of you who have already studied similar tables on the Internet will be a little confused when you see such numbers. I want to tell them about the slight confusion that has arisen on various construction sites due to the banal inattention of their authors. Often, when compiling such a plate, they take numbers from the above-mentioned SNiP II-26-76 *, but do not notice that in this document angles are indicated in percentages (%), and not in degrees, as we are accustomed to measuring them from school. I will not explain now how to convert percentages to degrees. This information is available on the Internet (there are formulas, there are signs). In principle, we don’t need this.
Now another note. Each manufacturer of any roofing covering (whether metal tiles, bitumen shingles, etc.) sets the minimum roof slope angle for its products. It is indicated in the installation instructions. For example, at different manufacturers metal tiles, you will be able to see numbers at 14°, 16°, etc. Often these numbers are higher than those determined by SNiP and indicated in Table 1.
But that's not all. All the numbers given above characterize the angle of inclination of the roof at which a given roofing covering will not have water overflow between adjacent elements under certain conditions. weather conditions. And these conditions in our country are very, very diverse. So snow loads differ significantly in different climatic zones. And wind patterns can generally differ within the same settlement, depending on the location of your building relative to others.
Snow loads affect the possible deflection of the rafter system, which changes the geometry of the roofing. In addition, when there is a large amount of snow, a so-called “snow bag” often forms on the roof (see Fig. 2):
Figure 2
Strong winds can also push rainwater through the joints of roofing elements.
I've looked through a lot in my time various sources, but I haven’t found a specific dependency anywhere minimum angle the slope of the roofing depends on the climatic conditions in the given region. As far as I understand, no one brought her out. Everyone uses values based on previous years of experience. I can say that for pitched roofs, in middle lane In Russia, it is usually not recommended to make the slope angle less than 20°. We will also start from this value.
So, let’s say in our garage (Fig. 1) we decided to make the slope angle equal to 20°. We will cover it with corrugated sheets. Now we need to decide how high the walls need to be laid out. IN in this case We make a low wall 2.4 meters high. This value is chosen individually in each case, depending on your personal preferences and the characteristics of your building. Height opposite wall determined by a simple formula:
N in = N n + B×tg α,
where H in is the height of the high wall;
H n – height of the low wall;
B – width of the building (garage);
α is the slope angle.
In our case, H in = 2.4 + 4.8 × tg 20° = 4.2 m (rounded up a little).
Now you can start laying the garage foot. Please note that near the high wall the last row not paved. Why will become clear later.
STEP 1: We begin the construction of the roof by installing the Mauerlat. We use 100x150 mm timber as a Mauerlat (Fig. 3). It is placed flush with internal walls. Notice how the sloping wall is laid out.
Figure 3
Also, instead of timber, you can use two 50x150 mm boards sewn together with nails. I wrote about such an example in the article about installing the Mauerlat. It describes several ways to attach the Mauerlat to the wall. In addition to them, I want to show you another one, which we sometimes use when building a roof on gas and foam concrete walls, when the customer does not want to make an armored belt (Fig. 4):
Figure 4
Here a reinforced roofing corner 90x90 is used. We attach it to the aerated concrete using two GB dowels with a diameter of 14 mm. They hold up great. We place such corners on the mauerlat approximately 80-100 cm apart.
Please note that roofing material must be placed under the Mauerlat so that there is no contact of wood with aerated concrete and metal. In all subsequent figures, the roofing material is simply not shown, but its presence is required.
STEP 2: We begin installing the rafters. To do this, first of all, we need to decide on their cross-section and the step between them. The program described in the article “Rafter system” will again help us with this. Calculation of rafters and floor beamsʺ ().
I want to clarify again. I am not the author of this program. But I always use it, in the absence of anything else (more or less understandable). I am completely confident in the strength of the roofs that we have already built. This confidence comes during the construction process, when you climb the rafters yourself and when you inspect the rafter system several years after the construction of the house (I have such opportunities).
The program is of course not ideal and sometimes you have to make some assumptions yourself. So don't judge harshly. The main thing is that all these assumptions work towards increasing the safety margin of rafters and beams.
Let's go back to our garage. Let’s take the Moscow region as an example. The sum of snow and wind loads will be 196 kg/m2. I described in detail where this figure comes from in the article (link above). I think there is no point in repeating myself. By the way, this is where I make one assumption in the calculation. In the program, when entering initial data, the value is requested only snow load(Fig.5). There are no columns for entering wind load at all. Therefore, I simply add it to the snow one, although I know that it acts in a different direction (the snow one is on top, the wind one is on the side).
Figure 5
We entered the pitch of the rafters at 0.5 meters. The result of the calculation (in the Strop.1 tab) is shown in Figure 6. Boards with a section of 50x200 mm were selected for the rafters. Of course, the step is too small, but where to go? If we take it equal to 0.6 meters, then this section does not pass the calculation. Of course, you can use, for example, 150x100 timber as rafters, then the minimum pitch will change. Here you can already improvise. I am used to working with boards with either a section of 50x150 or 50x200 mm.
Figure 6
By the way, in the figure, the distance between the supports (4.2 meters) is the internal width of our garage.
Having determined the cross-section, we mark the cuts of the rafters. We take a 50x200 mm board of suitable length and place it on the Mauerlat (see Fig. 7). It should hang from the walls with a margin (we got 53 cm), so that after the final trimming, the cornices will be 40-50 cm wide.
Figure 7
Now, using either a square or a tape measure with a small level, we mark the lower and upper cuts. In this case, we make the cut width equal to the width of the Mauerlat - 150 mm. The cutting depth will be 48 mm (see Fig. 8). Such exact values I am given a program in which I draw a three-dimensional model of the roof (Google SketchUp). In real work, of course, there won’t be such precision down to the millimeter, and it’s not really needed there.
In other articles, when considering roofs with large slope angles, such cuts are made not based on the width of the Mauerlat, but based on the maximum permissible depth of the cut. It is usually 1/3 of the height of the rafter section. Now we have 1/3 of 200 mm - this is 66 mm. We fit into this meaning. But making the width of the cut wider than the width of the Mauerlat makes absolutely no sense.
Figure 8
So, we have received a template according to which we make all subsequent rafters and install them (see Fig. 9):
Figure 9
The outer rafters do not touch the inclined walls. You can see this in the picture above. The gap is about 5 cm.
STEP 3: We make and install curtain rods (see Fig. 10):
Figure 10
We make them from boards of the same section as the rafters. Before installing the fillies, we roll out roofing felt on the inclined wall. It is not shown in the figure.
The sequence here is like this. First, we put the two outer fillies and pull the lace between them (see Fig. 11):
Figure 11
Then, in increments of about 0.8-1 m, we install the rest (see Fig. 12).
Figure 12
It is enough to secure the fillies with 2 nails (120 mm) driven into the end through the rafter. The extreme fillies can be secured with roofing corners directly to the inclined wall.
STEP 4: Install the end (wind) boards (see Fig. 13):
Figure 13
We use inch boards 25x200 mm.
Also, we need to lay the Mauerlat on high wall(see Fig. 14). This can be done either with aerated concrete or ordinary brick. Again, the wood must be separated from other material by a layer of roofing material.
Figure 14
STEP 5: We hem the cornices from the bottom. This is done depending on the final finishing of the roof. The cornices are either completely sewn up, or, as in our case, only the belts are sewn up for subsequent finishing with siding (see Fig. 15):
Figure 15
It is enough to use 25x100 mm boards as belts.
STEP 6: Now we make the sheathing (see Fig. 16):
Figure 16
The required cross-section of the sheathing boards can be determined in the program that is used to calculate rafters and beams (see Fig. 5). In our example, boards with a cross section of 25x100 mm are taken, their pitch is 350 mm. In the figure we see the inscription - ʺ Load bearing capacity sheathing is provided.
As a base for corrugated sheeting with which we want to cover this roof, in order to save money, you can use unedged inch boards. But you only need to take the so-called “second board” (see Fig. 17):
Figure 17
The price of such material is almost 2 times lower than edged material. There is just one very important note. Before laying the boards on the roof, be sure to remove the bark from them. Beetle larvae (bark beetles) often live under it, which first eat the bark and then proceed to the wood itself. It is quite difficult to get rid of them later. Some say it's completely impossible.
STEP 7: Well, the rafter system is ready. Now we cover the roof with corrugated sheeting and sheathe the eaves with siding (see Fig. 18):
Figure 18
Thus, we made an uninsulated pitched roof. It is clear that this design is only suitable for cold rooms. If we are going to heat the room, then the roof will need to be insulated. Let's see what additional work needs to be done for this.
We do the first five steps in the same way as described above. Then we install plugs for laying insulation (see Fig. 19). We make them from inch boards (25 mm thick board).
Figure 19
Now we lay the insulation. The bottom should be hemmed to the rafters vapor barrier film. It is not shown in the figure.
Every owner of a private house wants to arrange the surrounding area as comfortable and cozy as possible. One of the options for adding zest to the landscape is to install a gazebo for summer recreation, barbecue or barbecue.
In most cases, gazebos are made not from scrap materials, but with strict adherence to a certain style, which can be separate or repeat the style of the main structure. One of the universal trends is gazebos in half-timbered style, which in its design is comparable to any other styles.
The word half-timbered is of German origin and literally means “truss” or structure, which is made in the form of a frame. In other words, this frame houses, in which the frame itself is not sutured, but is at the same time decorative element, thanks to which the name of the whole style appeared.
For your information. IN European countries, such as Germany, Austria, Denmark and the Czech Republic, there are many half-timbered houses that are between 400 and 600 years old. This once again proves the strength similar design subject to compliance with assembly technology.
Building a house using half-timbered technology today is very expensive, since it requires a large amount of wood and the involvement of competent specialists, as a result the price of the building is very high. However, to build a gazebo you don’t need a lot of material and almost everyone can afford such a place to relax.
To build a half-timbered gazebo, laminated wood is usually used, which is durable and easy to process. Examples of such gazebos are shown in the photo in the article.
Unlike other types of material, wood is an environmentally friendly product and has a small specific gravity and the construction process takes significantly less time. It is usually used as a base, and the floor is lined with boards at some distance above the ground, which ensures ventilation of the space under the gazebo.
Half-timbered design features
At first glance, the half-timbered style seems as simple as possible, but if you plan to build such a gazebo with your own hands, you will have to study in detail the options for connecting wood together using locking joints.
The main feature of the style is the minimal use of fasteners in the form of nails, screws or metal corners. Of course, in modern version All these elements are used very actively, but the masters try to hide them as much as possible.
For your information. There are no instructions for assembling a frame for a gazebo in the half-timbered style; this is what gives the master the opportunity to show imagination and create his own, unique silhouette.
The basic design principles when creating a gazebo in the half-timbered style are:
- Clearly defined massive frame of the building made of wood, which can consist of connected bars vertically, horizontally or diagonally. The bars must be square or rectangular section. You can complement or dilute half-timbered wood with any other style, from minimalism to country style, and this is where its versatility lies.
- Color highlighting frame structure . The most common option is a dark brown frame on a light background. The style does not encourage the use of paints, since the wood is given the desired color through the use of stain and various types wood varnish.
Important. Modern half-timbered gazebos can break color stereotypes, depending on your preferences. A gazebo with a dark frame looks very massive and heavy, which is quite suitable for spacious suburban areas. For small areas, designers often use opposing colors, where light wood makes the pergola feel lighter and airier.
- Acceptable use natural stone or red brick for building a barbecue (see. ) or walls. For a dark brown frame, a light contrasting stone is used and vice versa. The use of red brick is recommended only when dark colors frame.
- The basis of the half-timbered style is wood, therefore the percentage of its use should be at least 80% of the total amount of materials.
The calling card of such gazebos is gable roof, for covering which natural or soft tiles are used.
Gazebo design elements
A half-timbered gazebo must have a wooden floor and the use of wooden furniture, for this you can use either ordinary wooden material or wicker furniture from rattan. Inner space the roof is not sewn up, since one of the style features is to emphasize the design of the floor trusses.
Also distinctive feature is the presence of diagonal struts in the corner joints of the frame logs. This element not only emphasizes the style, but also serves to ensure the stability of the frame itself. Half-timbered style modern design greatly blurs the requirements for its original version, so you can fantasize with colors and arrangement at your own discretion.
You can get a more complete idea of the style by watching the video in this article.
Despite their simple, uncomplicated design, pitched roofs are in demand and rational, especially for country house construction. Roofs with one slope are also widely used for arranging garages, adjoining buildings, and outbuildings. You will learn below how to build a pitched roof with your own hands step by step. Multi-slope roof options are complex in design, but a single-slope roof can be made with your own hands, since it is, in fact, a rectangle that is located in one plane and has no bends. By the way, you will need much less building materials for a single-slope building than any other; it will be more resistant to seasonal conditions (snow, wind, rain).
Construction of a garage with a pitched roof, photo:
Advantages of a pitched roof:
- light weight;
- relatively reasonable final cost;
- accessible, simple process installation;
- possibility of application various building materials(roofing, rafters);
- accessible arrangement drainage system, chimneys.
Photo of a chicken coop with a run for chickens Despite its simplicity, a pitched roof can be very creatively used in design solutions. The angle of its slope directly depends on the climatic characteristics of the region where you live. If you are accustomed to snowy winters, then the degree of slope should be greater (so that the snow slides off better), but if your house is located in a windy place, then the slope should be smaller. For the same reasons, the slope of the roof should be directed in the direction opposite to the facade, so that precipitation “goes” behind the house.
The pitched roof comes in ventilated and non-ventilated types. The first option is used for residential buildings, the slope varies from 8 to 25 degrees. In such cases, air exchange is ensured by the insulating layer and special openings located on the sides of the roof.
Annex – garage and shed The non-ventilated option is often installed in garages, sheds, and house extensions; their tilt angle is usually small - 3-6 degrees.
House with a pitched roof - choice of roofing material
Calculation of a schematic drawing of a future house begins with determining the required angle of inclination and suitable covering material for the roof. Most often, for such single-pitch structures, corrugated sheeting, metal profiles, roofing felt, tiles, slate, metal tiles or ondulin are used. Soft tile or roofing felt coating is optimal for very small slopes - from 5 to 10 degrees. Slate with corrugated sheets are more suitable for “average” inclination angles - from 20 to 30 degrees. Metal tiles require a slope of at least 35 degrees.
The choice of roofing material is determined by its ability to interact with precipitation and promptly remove it from the surface. For example, snow comes off much easier from slate, corrugated sheets, and tiles.
How to make a pitched roof?
To build a pitched roof with your own hands, you will need standard set construction tools, necessary building materials. Wood materials (lumber) must be of proper quality with a maximum humidity of 22%. It is recommended to pre-treat all wooden materials antiseptics(for example, from the “Drevotex” series).
In addition to everything, you should have fasteners in stock: crossbars, spacers, struts.
A crossbar is a horizontal part that acts as a support for load-bearing structures; it distributes the load of the rafters to other beams.
Spacers are a type of supports that are located in spans and provide greater stability to the entire structure.
Struts are beams that act as supports for the rafter system.
Single-pitch extension to house Shed roof, photo:
You must have:
- wooden beam with a section of 100×150 mm;
- laying boards (thickness minimum 5 cm);
- rafter nails;
- thermal insulation materials;
- waterproofing materials;
- construction tape;
- tools (axe, saw, hammer, special knife, plumb line, screwdriver, tape measure, stapler, level).
The rafter system will entirely depend on the size of the future house and the building material from which the walls were erected. The rafters are always installed on the mauerlat; if the building is small and the span length does not exceed 4.5 meters, then the diagram of the rafter system of a pitched roof will be extremely simple. It will consist of a main mauerlat beam and a rafter support. If the size of the structure is not small, and the span is more than 6 meters, then installing reinforcing rafter legs with your own hands is simply necessary.
Rafter system diagram The rafters must be installed according to building regulations so that after several years of operation the consequences do not appear. Do not forget about safety rules - install reliable, strong temporary boards on the rafters on which you will move during the construction process.
Photo of rafter installation The workflow includes the following steps:
- Laying cross rafters. They are attached to the Mauerlat. This is the basis - what the entire focus of the rafter system is on. The distance between the rafters is approximately 60-80 cm. Here you will need large nails (or anchors).
- A sheathing is attached to the rafters (it is made from wooden slats 50 by 50 cm), it provides rigidity, and the roofing material is laid directly on it. The sheathing is placed at a right angle.
- With help construction stapler waterproofing material is attached to the sheathing (ordinary polyethylene film suitable for these purposes). Fastening is done without tension, but with an overlap from bottom to top.
- The next step is thermal insulation (for example: mineral wool, fiberglass, balsat mats).
- Laying roofing material according to its individual characteristics.
DIY pitched roof
Let's look at the entire construction process step by step:
- Since the Mauerlat represents the support for the entire system, its main function is to ensure that the total weight of the roof is equally evenly distributed over the main load-bearing parts of the structure. For these purposes, you need to choose a beam of at least 10x10 cm, which is installed directly on load-bearing walls. There should be a layer of roofing material between the wall masonry and the timber. The greater the slope angle, the thicker the mauerlat beam should be.
Installing the Mauerlat with your own hands must be done responsibly; be sure to use a building level (horizontal requirements must be met). The installation of a pitched roof involves fastening the timber to the walls using anchor bolts, the distance between them should be about a meter and a half.
- Now comes the turn of laying the rafter boards. Make sure that the length of the board is more span roof by about half a meter.
The distance between these boards depends on the severity of the covering material; if sheet options are provided, then 150 cm will be quite enough. If you are going to lay slate or tiles with your own hands, then it is better to choose a step of 100-120 cm. It is best to lay the board with the end up. This will give additional strength to the entire structure. Rafters for a shed roof must be embedded in the Mauerlat beam along the entire length. When you mark the places for insertion with a pencil (recommended for novice builders), make sure that the future groove is slightly wider than the thickness of the board. The inclination of the groove cut is responsible for the degree of inclination.
- One of the most important stages is the installation of rafters in grooves.
All boards must be installed the same way, at the same slope. For your convenience, it will be better to initially place two rafters at the beginning and end of the wall, and then stretch a string between them. This way, you will get an accurate reference point, and the process itself will go much easier. To fasten timber and rafters, use large nails (12 cm or more). The end of the rafter board (legs is a construction term) is fixed on one side to the edge of the wall, and the other is secured to a vertical beam. All rafter legs must be the same in degree of slope, height, direction.
- If you have a large house and the distance between spans exceeds 4-4.5 meters, then it is necessary to install additional support beams (struts) under each rafter. Using this construction method The entire roof and rafter system as a whole will be strengthened.
- Boards are laid step by step on the rafters, and on them vapor barrier material. It is placed across the rafters. There is no need to stretch the film, but the strips should overlap (10-15 cm). Where the fragments will be joined, for reliability it is better to use construction tape (glue the strips together).
- We lay the insulation on the waterproofing film. There should be no cracks or gaps during installation. The thickness of the insulation should be at least 20 cm. Next comes the waterproofing layer, but there should be some space between it and the insulation. To ensure a gap, small wooden blocks between them. The waterproofing layer is attached using a construction stapler.
- The sheathing is laid on the resulting “pie”. As mentioned above, for its manufacture, slats or bars 50 by 50 are used, they are mounted across the rafter boards. Arrange it any way you like – as a continuous sheet or with intervals.
Roof sheathing with a continuous sheet, photo After the sheathing, the final roofing covering is laid, its installation is carried out according to individual construction features.
High-quality laid, secured rafters do not bend under a weight of 70-100 kg. If this fact is discovered during installation, then it is necessary to strengthen the frame.
The technology for laying layers of the “pie” may vary due to certain circumstances and have some additions. Sometimes, for greater reliability, the waterproofing layer is re-laid on top of the insulation. This will not make things worse, but in all cases you should pay attention Special attention fastening.
Nail the film to wooden elements construction is best done using nails with a flat head or a construction stapler, the step frequency should be 15-20 cm.
One of the most important points is to secure the edges waterproofing material. It is placed under the roof overhang, the remaining length must be at least 20 cm, after which it is nailed from below or, again, passed with a stapler.
It's best to take wooden slats and tack it with the appropriate nails (in increments of 10-15 cm) - this is the so-called “folk” method of arranging a pitched roof. This way, you will be sure that air currents will not penetrate under the waterproofing film and will not cause large-scale damage during the onset of strong winds.
Errors in fastening the edges of the garage roof, photo In the photo above, the edges (overhang) of the roof were not securely fastened. In case of strong wind, the metal profile sheet along with waterproofing film like a light rag, it was easily thrown aside.
Shed roof - extension to the house
Garage as an extension For garages, sheds, bathhouses, gazebos, this type of roof is most convenient. The shed roof structure provides a number of advantages for so-called auxiliary buildings.
Fastening rafter frame to the wall of the house If we look at the extension step by step, it will become clear that its roof is adjacent to the wall of a residential building. Thus, its rafter system is installed separately from the house. The lower ends of the rafters are located on the facade wall of the extension, but the upper ends are attached to the building itself. Here it is very important to ensure proper connection between the rafter frame of the extension and the main wall of the house. It is also undesirable to use too rigid fastenings, because the rate of shrinkage of the house and the attached structure may be different. Because of this difference, wall cracks may then form.
In this case, it will be most convenient to lay the beams on a timber frame, which is adjacent to the house (attached to the wall). And fill the space (seam) between the timber and the wall with polyurethane sealant. Roofing material must be laid on the roof of the extension with an overlap, and also placed at the joint under the covering of the house. This must be done so that later precipitation does not leak through the joint. Typically, similar roofing material is used on the roof of the house and extension - for aesthetic reasons.
If you decide to build a shed with a pitched roof, then the arrangement of the roofing system will not differ significantly from the step-by-step construction method described above.
It happens that sheds are built from timber. In such cases, the top of the log house acts as a mauerlat. Otherwise, there are no significant differences in the truss system of pitched roofs different buildings not available.
Video on how to quickly make a simple winter corral for horses:
A pitched garage roof is made using a similar method.
If the walls of the garage are built of brick, then the edges of the beams and rafters are embedded in niches equipped for this purpose. They are made in the walls in advance and discussed at the stages of building design. It is recommended to wrap wooden fragments waterproofing coating before delving into these niches. In this case, the rafter interval is 60-70 cm. The front wall of the garage is high. From it there is a slope down to the rear of the building, entrance gate are located in it. The roof should protrude 30-40 cm from the wall, forming a small overhang.
Taking into account the above information, it becomes clear that this roofing option is practical, functional, and structurally simple. A do-it-yourself pitched roof can withstand powerful wind and snow loads. Such a roof will be warm, thanks to small area for air penetration. If you did everything correctly, then it will serve you faithfully for decades.