First, cut out a disk from a workpiece 18 mm thick on which the router will rest. Using a Forstner drill with a diameter of 20 mm, drill a recess 1-3 mm deep in the center of the disk, and then make it in the center through hole with a diameter of 10 mm. Paste into drilled hole threaded rod M1 0 and secure it with two nuts and washers, as shown in the figure. The length of the pin should ensure the vertical stroke of the router installed in the table is about 50 mm. Then attach a wooden adjustment wheel just above the middle of the stud using a nut and washer and a flange nut. Glue the flange nut to the stud using epoxy glue.
Finally, install the plywood bottom into the table, positioning it about 75mm from the bottom ends of the legs, insert the flange nut into it and screw the bottom end of the stud into it. Now, when the flywheel rotates, the entire structure will rise or fall relative to the flange nut fixed in the bottom. If you use a standard M10 stud with a thread pitch of 1.5 mm, when turning the wheel one turn, the amount of movement of the router will be 1.5 mm, half a turn - 0.75 mm, etc.
Every craftsman who works with wood knows how inconvenient it is and how many unnecessary actions have to be performed to set the desired cutter height when working with a hand router, or to replace one cutter with another. To do this, you even have to remove the router from the table.
In order to significantly facilitate this task, it was invented long ago special device, called a milling elevator, which is, in fact, the “third hand of the master”, which helps regulate this process.
Currently on sale a large number of a wide variety of milling elevator models. The best elevators are made in the USA and are quite expensive.
Not long ago, in one of the woodworking magazines, a design was shown homemade elevator, intended for hand router. This design will allow you to quite accurately adjust the height of the cutter, and make it yourself for good master will not be difficult. Besides there is detailed photo With detailed description the entire process of producing such a model.
First of all, you need to make a disk 18 mm thick, on which the router will be attached. Now, using a Forstner drill with a diameter of 20 mm, we drill a recess with a depth of 13 mm in the center of the disk, then a through hole with a diameter of 10 mm.
We install an M10 threaded rod into the hole we drilled and secure it with two nuts and washers. Select the length of the stud so that the vertical stroke of the router is about 5 cm. Just above the middle of the stud we install a flywheel for adjustment; for fastening we use a nut with a washer and a flange nut. We will attach the flange nut to the stud using epoxy glue.
Finally, install the plywood bottom into the table, positioning it about 75mm from the bottom ends of the legs, insert the flange nut into it and screw the bottom end of the stud into it. Now, when the flywheel rotates, the entire structure will rise or fall relative to the flange nut fixed in the bottom. If you use a standard M10 stud with a thread pitch of 1.5 mm, when turning the wheel one turn, the amount of movement of the router will be 1.5 mm, by half a turn - 0.75 mm, etc.
IKEA kitchens in the interior: practical and convenient
In kitchen design important role plays design kitchen set. For small rooms, custom-made kitchens are best suited, taking into account all the features and inconveniences of the room layout, but IKEA kitchens will not look good in the interior of a small room.
Residential complex Podkova
The Podkova residential complex is located in the Vsevolozhsk district. Its developer is “Russian Fairy Tale” together with “Arsenal-Real Estate” and “Polis Group”. Construction of this facility began in 2012. The complex will be built on the picturesque shore of the lake, just a couple of minutes walk from the Ocher River.
Accessories for hand router
Lift for a router made from a clamp
If you regularly use a router mounted on a router table, you know how difficult it is to adjust and adjust the height of the bit in the router. There are milling elevators for lifting the router, but they are usually quite expensive. So I created a simple homemade router lift from available materials. This lift saves a ton of time and I find that all adjustments with a router are much easier to make effortlessly using a lift mounted under the router table.
To make the elevator I took steel pipe 3/4 in diameter? (nipple length will depend on the size of your router) then made a miter coupler and a second 3/4 nipple? connected to a flange (nipple length will also depend on the size of your router table) as shown in the drawing below.
Then I did wooden base to support the router. I drilled a 3/4? hole in the base. This hole allows the base to slide smoothly over the nipple. The clamp is screwed to the base and serves as an adjustment mechanism. I then installed the router lift under the router table (see photo).
To get maximum adjustment, be sure to set the router lift to its lowest position. The curved handle of the clamp makes it easy to adjust the router and move up and down the steel nipple. This makes it easy to adjust the router to any position you need.
Lift for a router from a spark plug key
The lift for the router is extremely important and useful device. It's fast and convenient way adjust the cutting height of the cutter.
Do-it-yourself elevator for a milling table: design and assembly
Correctly setting the cutting depth will not only create cutting accuracy, but will also simplify the adjustment of product joints.
I made the lift for the router from a regular spark plug wrench for a car and a nut of a suitable size. The nut must match external size spark plug wrench, and inner diameter nuts - according to the size of the bolt used.
Using nylon or other soft material, drive the nut into the bottom of the key. Handle on back side I made a spark plug wrench for ease of adjustment. A nylon retaining ring between the nut and the base of the router will help prevent spontaneous free rotation during operation.
This router lift can be used on various hand routers such as Hitachi, Festos, Mafells, Dewalt, as well as small Bosch models.
An essential requirement is that you need to consider the location of the bolt on the base of the hand router, its length and easy access during operation.
Note: The easiest way is to use a nut with a nylon insert inside the key.
Compiled by Patlakh V.V.
http://patlah.ru
© “Encyclopedia of Technologies and Methods” Patlakh V.V. 1993-2007
Make a lift for the router yourself, or buy a ready-made one? Let's answer this question.
When using a manual router installed in a stationary table, two questions arise:
- How to adjust the depth of immersion (extension) of a cutter.
- How to quickly change replacement tips.
Unscrewing the tool from the plate every time is too troublesome. In addition, a statically mounted router works in the workpiece only at a fixed depth.
This problem is solved by installing a suspension with adjustable height. And once you were able to make a full-fledged milling table, install an elevator own design It's not difficult at all. In addition, a self-made device is developed taking into account all the requirements of the master, even those that are not provided for by the factory device.
Why do you need a lift on the milling table, and is it possible to do without it?
This useful device called the third hand of the master. Those who have tried a milling cutter with a microlift are finding new applications for it:
- Maintaining a power tool is not difficult, as is quickly changing cutters.
- You can change the cutter reach height in a matter of seconds, and most importantly – safely.
- You can change the immersion depth “dynamically”, simultaneously with the movement of the workpiece on the table. This expands creativity.
- Due to the fact that you no longer regularly dismantle the tool for maintenance, the plate and its fasteners are subject to less wear.
Buy or make it yourself?
There is a wide choice of offers on the power tool market. Industrial microlifts look good and work without failures, but their cost is the same as that of a new router. True, the device is quite well equipped. The set includes rings for copy sleeves, and a very high quality mounting plate.
Industrial microlift for a router with a set of copy rings
All that remains is to electrify the device - and you can get a CNC machine. There is only one drawback, but it outweighs all the advantages - the price itself. Therefore, for periodic home use this is an unaffordable luxury. So our Kulibins make whatever they can. However, there is a lot to learn from them.
There are quite primitive lever-type designs
Homemade elevator design with a lever mechanism
This technique even allows the use of a “foot” drive. It is not suitable for precise reach settings, however, with the help of such a mechanism, you can raise the router to the working position with one movement, and just as easily lower it to change the attachment or service. This elevator has a fairly long stroke; it does not allow for adjustable milling. Materials for manufacturing are literally lying underfoot, the cost tends to zero.
Using a Screw Adjuster
Another example of a homemade elevator for a router
The design is more advanced and allows relatively precise adjustment of the reach. However, using such a microlift is inconvenient; to rotate the handle, you need to crawl under the table, and then make a control measurement of the height of the cutter. But reliability is high, and production does not require expensive materials. Such an elevator can be made “by eye” without using drawings.
The following flywheel design not only makes it possible to precisely adjust the reach in small increments within 50 mm, but is also quite convenient.
Lifting design with flywheel
It will take more time to make, but the result is worth it. The flywheel allows you to adjust the height of the cutter while simultaneously visually controlling it work surface. In principle, it is already possible to dynamically change the cutter offset.
The main advantage is the still low cost of components for manufacturing, with increased functionality. Instead of a flywheel, you can install a gear and a motor with a gearbox. But this will require additional costs.
Option with car jack
Quite expensive, since at a minimum you need to purchase a jack.
LIFT FOR MILLER. ANYONE. WITH EXPLOSION DIAGRAM using the example of festool 1400 (ROUTER LIFT)
Diamond-shaped designs are ideal.
Application screw jack as a lift for a router, also possible
This microlift lift is reliable, and thanks to the handle located parallel to the tabletop, it is convenient and quite accurate.
Positioning the mount is quite simple. It is enough to install a strong shelf parallel to the tabletop.
An electric drive option is available.
Then, in general, you can install a foot pedal and free both hands. And if you add a programmer to all this, you have a homemade CNC router.
However, this goes beyond the concept of an economy class device.
Option from an advanced master
Since the possibilities of a craftsman are limitless, you can come across completely unexpected designs. This microlift is made using the very same router for which it is intended.
Original elevator design made by hand
The design involves not only precise adjustment of the reach, but also changing the angle of inclination of the router axis. With this potential, you can significantly expand your woodworking tasks.
The drive of the worm gear of the stud – the height regulator – was originally designed.
Gears (gears) are made using the tenon method " dovetail" This allows the gears to be moved outside the mechanism, eliminating the need for lubrication, and making adjustment smooth.
Material used – moisture resistant plywood 20-25 mm thick. The microlift is executed with such high quality - that I would like to suggest that the author organize industrial production.
Of course, such a design requires a preliminary drawing.
Assembly drawing in 3D for a microlift
Moreover, it was made using a three-dimensional modeling program. Making such a device is painstaking work. But the financial side of the issue is the cost of a sheet of plywood and a screw stud. When performing custom work, this design will quickly pay for itself.
The verdict on this topic is as follows: when using a homemade milling table, you cannot do without a microlift. Other designs, such as a quick-release plate for a router or a hinged table cover, are only suitable for servicing power tools. And for precise positioning of the cutter above the table, you need a microlift.
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Project from Victor Traveller. The milling table is shown in the first photo, but in this article we will not talk about it, but about its component - the milling elevator - it is mounted under the tabletop
The elevator material is plywood with a piece of laminated chipboard, a hairpin, several nuts of the appropriate size, and several self-tapping screws.
A small box is assembled from pieces of plywood. A plywood “cube” is mounted in it with a nut pressed into it and cylinders (a piece of wire) protruding from it on both sides.
The driver is made from a piece of laminated chipboard, into the center of which a driving nut and a handle are pressed. 
Bottom view of the support mechanism. In it we also see a nut with a washer. 
Now let's move on to the router itself (Interskol FM 32/1900E). It is fixed on the tabletop as standard (for example, I did it). A kind of rocker arm is attached to the wall. It is fixed to one wall with a pair of corners. The rocker itself is represented by a pair of parallel bars connected to each other by a smooth jumper (a piece of laminated parquet) with recessed screws. 
Another view from the front. Pay attention to the recess between the “legs” of the rocker arm (under the lower nut of the elevator box). 
We lift the rocker arm (together with the head of the router) and place a lift under its legs, placing them on the protrusions of the “cube”. In this case, the width of the legs corresponds to the gap between the inner surface of the box and the outer surface of the cube. 
That is, when the gate rotates, the cube does not rotate, but rises through rotation, raising the “yoke”. 
The advantage of this elevator is that it is moved beyond the plane of the router itself, closer to the user. (another closer photo) 
I'm thinking about making one myself.
In search of a worthy answer to the discomfort that arises when working with hand-held milling tools, owners of home carpentry eventually come to the need to purchase a convenient milling table.
VovroKsyu User FORUMHOUSE
I've been thinking about the table for a long time. Especially after manually performing the reservation 22 m of fence.
The purchase option can be expensive; the dimensions of a machine assembled in a production environment do not correspond to the size of a small home workshop. The optimal solution V in this case will self-assembly milling table.
Those who want to make their own milling machine will be found in the appropriate section of FORUMHOUSE.
How to make a milling table
A homemade milling table is the simplest. The main working unit in it is a manual milling machine. Work with hand power tools involves moving the working cutter along the surface of a stationary workpiece (which is not always convenient). Milling table for hand tools allows you to change the processing method and mill in a lightweight way: the hand tool is fixed on the work table, and the workpiece is easily fed to the cutter by hand.
A homemade milling table is the simplest wood processing. The main working unit in it is a manual milling machine. Working with hand-held power tools involves moving the working cutter along the surface of a stationary workpiece (which is not always convenient). A milling table for hand tools allows you to change the processing method and mill in a lightweight way: the hand tool is fixed on the work table, and the workpiece is easily fed to the cutter by hand.
A milling table for a manual router consists of basic and additional elements. Additional items are not required, but their use makes it possible to make the master’s heavy work as easy as possible, make the design of the device safer, and make the functionality closer to the capabilities of serial installations.
Universal milling table:main structural elements
The main elements of the milling table are indicated in the figure.
Aib User FORUMHOUSE, Moscow.
I really needed a mobile milling table. I welded the frame, painted and assembled the structure.
The dimensions of the milling table depend on the dimensions of the parts being processed, as well as on the height of the craftsman himself. The length and width should be slightly less than the tabletop, and the height of the bed is 850...900 mm, which corresponds to the most comfortable conditions for working while standing. The homemade legs can be made adjustable, which will allow you to compensate for uneven floors or change the height of the bed.
Tabletop for router
The dimensions of the tabletop depend on the size of the parts being processed.
dauto User FORUMHOUSE
In a home workshop, a small table of 500x500 mm is sufficient.
For processing relatively long parts (for profiling edges on door frames) you will need a tabletop of appropriate sizes. Let's look at the drawing:
For the manufacture of the frame, wood-based materials are most often used, which can effectively dampen vibrations. This could be a countertop made of chipboard, which is used in the manufacture kitchen furniture or a sheet of thick plywood. Here, for example, is a countertop made from chipboard scraps formed after installing a kitchen sink.
Krott64 User FORUMHOUSE
With this tabletop scrap, after some simple modifications, you can do some pretty decent things.
Some people make countertops from metal, others from edged boards, but, as practice shows, chipboard and plywood are always a priority.
Orfo74 User FORUMHOUSE
If I make it, it will be from laminated plywood (I have one like this on my trailer). I have already traveled hundreds of thousands of kilometers under the heat and below zero. Neither salt nor rain spoiled it. And it can still be used, but you need to assemble it either in 2 layers, or make the bottom out of simple plywood.
To make a countertop, you cannot use material that has defects on its surface (knotty boards, etc.).
Mounting plate for hand router
To the mounting plate using threaded connections a hand router is attached. Therefore, its production must be taken with full responsibility. The material from which the plate will be made must be strong enough so that the router does not tear out during operation (the consequences can be imagined). This can be a rectangle made of metal or plywood sheet (but metal is more reliable).
AlekX User FORUMHOUSE
A powerful car has a lot of dope. And if she gets thrown out of the table while working–it won't seem like much.
Dgusepe User FORUMHOUSE
The legs can be made of wood, but it is advisable to make the tabletop from 3 mm metal. For maximum cutter lift.
Lenght and width mounting plate must correspond to the dimensions of the sole of the hand router with which the power tool will be attached to the table.
Longitudinal workpiece stop
The longitudinal stop can be made from ordinary chipboard sheet or from edged boards. The stop must be made movable to ensure the possibility of adjusting the horizontal reach of the cutter. For more precise adjustment, you can attach measuring rulers to the sides of the tabletop.
The design of the locking mechanism, which allows you to secure the longitudinal stop in the required position, is extremely simple. It can consist of two slats with through longitudinal grooves and from two threaded fasteners with wings.
Instead of slats, you can use two metal corner, which will last longer and will not be deformed under the action of clamps.
To prevent dust and chips from interfering with work, it is advisable to equip the longitudinal stop with a dust collector, to which a chip extractor or a small carpenter's vacuum cleaner is connected.
The longitudinal stop can be made double, which significantly expands the functionality of the milling table.
Superkuzen User FORUMHOUSE
The monolithic stop makes it impossible to carry out a lot of operations performed on milling table, that is, makes the table of little functionality.
The milling table can serve as a small jointer, if an adjustable difference between the working planes is organized between the two halves of the longitudinal stop. This design allows you to move one half of the stop relative to the other, setting one stop flush with the cutter using thin wooden plates. Adjustment plates are placed under the non-working surface of the stop.
Manual milling machine
From technical characteristics hand tools (power, number of revolutions per minute, etc.) will directly depend on the performance of the milling table. You should choose a router for a milling table based on the expected load. The additional functionality of the machine will be an additional advantage for the master. If you don’t yet have a manual milling cutter, then choose a tool with an adjustable cutter rotation speed and the ability to set the processing depth (plunge-beam milling machines). Very easy to use machines with spindle lock (for easy replacement cutting tool), as well as devices with soft start and quick stop of the spindle.
We looked at the main elements of a milling table, which will allow the owner to perform the simplest milling operations. In order to expand the functionality of the device, make it universal and increase operational safety, it is necessary to ensure that additional accessories. Let's look at the most common of them.
Longitudinal guide for movable milling carriage
Using a longitudinal guide built into the surface of the table top, you can attach a variety of devices to the milling table: an angular stop with a protractor, a perpendicular stop, etc.
The longitudinal guide may have different designs, but most often it is an aluminum C-shaped profile into which bolts and wing nuts are inserted. This design allows you to quickly install the device you need at the moment on the milling table.
By the way, with the help C-profile You can also attach a longitudinal adjustable stop to the tabletop.
Vertical clamp
The upper clamp increases safety when working with a homemade router and increases processing accuracy. Its fastening can be implemented using the type of clamps for a movable carriage.
If you are planning to make a milling table with your own hands, a video about setting up a universal carpentry workshop for personal use will help you with this.
Lift for router
The vertical reach of the cutter very often has to be adjusted. To make this adjustment, there is a milling elevator– an adjustable stop that allows you to maintain the milling machine at a given height and, if necessary, quickly change this height.
It is advisable to use a milling elevator in conjunction with milling machines submersible type. Their design initially has guides for adjusting the reach of the cutter (unlike machines with a fixed motor).
Lift lift for homemade router may have different designs.
Car jack lift
You can use an old car jack to create a lifting mechanism.
leon42 User FORUMHOUSE
The elevator can be made from a car jack: there is a shelf under the router, and we attach the jack to the shelf. We turn the jack - the router rises or lowers.
For convenience, the jack handle can be moved out of the side wall of the bed. This will make adjustments much easier.
Threaded rod lift
Blackk User FORUMHOUSE
The angle with the threaded rod is screwed to the protrusion on the router, to which the measuring pin is normally attached. The corner for the threaded rod is threaded. By rotating the pin, we seem to screw into the corner and pull the entire router up along the guides. Accordingly, when rotating backwards, we lower the router.
The mechanism consists of a wooden wedge (item 1), in which a through hole is drilled for a screw (item 2). Thanks to metal plates (item 3), attached to the sides of the wedge and having threaded holes, the wedge moves in a horizontal plane, raising or lowering the milling machine. The handle of the lifting mechanism is brought to lateral surface beds. To reduce the load during lifting, the router is equipped with a homemade roller (item 4).
Turning the router table on and off
All necessary equipment for the electrical part of the milling table is already provided in the design of the milling machine. The only thing you can add to what you already have is electrical diagram– this is a remote switch and an emergency shutdown button (after all, no one has yet canceled the safety rules during operation).
You can use a very ordinary switch for the router. As for the possibility of quick shutdown: it can be realized by installing an emergency button with a locking mechanism on the table (in which the unlocking is carried out by turning).
Table assembly
Basic and auxiliary elements milling table we have listed. Each master can determine the order of assembling the device for himself. The only point to pay attention to is the manufacture and installation of the mounting plate.
After a plate of a suitable size is cut from a steel (or plywood) sheet, it is necessary to drill holes in it for attaching the milling machine, a hole for the cutter (its diameter must correspond to the diameter of the hole in the base of the router) and mounting holes (for attaching the plate to the tabletop) .
What tools should you have in your carpentry or furniture workshop? And a video about the design of a homemade milling table and the features of power carpentry tools will help you find answers to questions regarding equipment that is extremely rarely used in a small home workshop.