A good weed killer. Vinegar with salt: instructions, reviews

Hi all. Denis Povaga writes. We wrote this article together with the blog editors. I’ll start, and then I’ll hand over the keyboard to the editor. So…

The other day I declared war on weeds and all large perennial grass. I decided for myself that it's time to get rid of her once and for all. For this reason, I decided to publish a post on this topic, and as it turns out, I will share it below in the comments. First of all, I needed a trimmer. The electric one is old (its price is 700 rubles in total), but it does the job, so I don’t see the point in buying an expensive one. Then, I bought 2 drugs from Leroy Merlin, which act only on large weeds, such as dandelion, loach, plantain, and similar herbs... and at the same time, do not spoil small grass in the form of a lawn. But this is still worth checking. Fortunately, there is no lawn yet, I think in the near future, while construction is moving, just get rid of the grass and put the ground in order, and that will be good.

In general, I ran and mowed upper layer all large grass, and on the 3rd day mixed the drug. Let's take what we have in order...

Trimmer to mow the grass (by the way, if you mow often with a trimmer, the same dandelion, then it root system weakens and he dies. You can check this point... I will check it differently, with the help of a preparation that I spray on the third day after mowing...). Probably, this thing cannot be classified as a folk remedy)). Although…

2. For spraying, I bought it from Leroy - this is a siparator or whatever it’s called. Sprayer, for sure! It just swings like a pump, then onto your shoulder and wearing protective gloves and a mask, we walk around the area, pressing the button on the handle. The price is around 600 rubles for it. One of the simplest and cheapest. Just right for the home. Moreover, I took it for other purposes - treating wood (floor joists) from fungus and any mold.

3. And the drug itself - LINTUR. This is probably already herbicide. What a word...)) In fact, I’m not that experienced in these matters. But the seller said that this particular one is the strongest and most correct weed killer. But this is still worth checking, since the effect begins in 1-2 weeks. But now, 4 days after the treatment, I see that the new leaves of the dandelions are curling, as if they were sick. It is clear that something is destroying him. And this something is the effect of the drug. Just in case, after a month I think I’ll treat it with the same Lintur, and additionally, after another couple of weeks, I can try another weed control drug - BIS-300. I already grabbed this myself in the store, for my confidence (15 rubles each bag). According to the instructions, Lintur was diluted to 5 liters. The red flask was just full...

4. It’s a pity that I didn’t take a picture of what the grass was like before the mower. The dandelions were simply huge, the stem was thick, and there was a lot of all sorts of large-sized grass. But now, the leaves are new after treatment, after 3 days, you can notice that the leaf is curling... At least, it’s more obvious in real life!

But in the photo below, you can see the intensity of the grass. And I’ll say even more - before the trimmer, there was 5 times more of it. And it was taller. And below, this is also after treatment with the drug. The effect is not yet so noticeable. But if you look closely, you can already see how the leaves are weakening and the grass is dying. According to the manufacturer, the effect is noticeable within 1-2 weeks. Therefore, I will wait for the result and write in the comments.

By the way, here are the instructions for use, for those who need it... It’s all simple:

I hand over the keyboard and give the task to the blog editor. Thank you. Follow the comments, I will keep you updated.

Getting rid of weeds and grass is an integral dream of most gardeners. Indeed, almost immediately after planting seeds and seedlings, a difficult period of battle with weeds begins, which often grow faster and better than any crop planted on the site.

Summer is a fleeting and wonderful time, and no one naturally wants to spend time in the garden, pulling out and weeding the grass, so they were invented effective methods and tools that make life much easier. So what are these methods and how to apply them?

Today, there are two popular methods to combat harmful vegetation:

Mechanical,

Chemical.

The first method involves manually pulling out the weed along with the rhizome. However, there is no guarantee that the grass will not grow again with new strength. When treating the area, use garden tools, so as to pull out the grass by the roots and not leave it in the soil.

The chemical method involves the use of herbicides; with their help, you can completely clear the soil of grass and weeds. This effective method, but not very cheap.

The weed has high vitality and fertility; it grows everywhere - in the garden, in the field, in the vegetable garden. Can be carried by water, wind, or on the soles of shoes. Does not harm their seeds low temperature, and germination is maintained both after 3 and after 70 years.

They take moisture, nutrients, light from cultivated plants, and are also often carriers of various diseases and pests.

There are a great variety of weeds, and each type causes harm to cultivated plants in the garden.

How to get rid of dandelions? What herbicides can be used for dandelions, and what is the best treatment for dandelions?

Dandelion is very insidious, just one flower is enough for it to spread throughout land plot. Its seeds scatter over long distances and germinate on any piece of land. But it is very difficult to remove dandelion. This is all because of its powerful roots, which grow and can reach up to 30 cm, but in turn they are flimsy, which makes it difficult to completely remove them from the soil. From what remains, a new dandelion easily grows.

In the fight against dandelions, all means are good, so chemicals are used, and to be precise, herbicides. However, they kill and cultivated plants, but don’t despair, there are drugs with selective action. To combat dandelion, you can use ordinary vinegar as an herbicide. More effective fight with the weed will be, the higher the concentration of acetic acid. The percentage of acidity in table vinegar can be increased by evaporation.

It is necessary to use chemicals in the fall - at this time the dandelion prepares for winter and all the nutrients in the upper part move to the root. When poisoning occurs, herbicides enter the root of the plant.

Another effective method when fighting dandelion - salt. If you salt a flower with salt, then after a while a dark spot will form in this place, but you need to act precisely because... salt also kills cultivated plants.

Systematic mowing also helps in the fight against dandelion. Mow this plant regularly (every week) to the root and gradually it will lose its strength to constantly grow greenery and soon its roots will die.

Another effective way- this is cool boiling water. Boil a kettle and water methodically, trying to get to the center of the plant.

If you really don’t have the strength to fight the plant, specialized herbicides such as Lontrel, Tornado and Roundup will come to the rescue. With their help, defeating a dandelion is as easy as shelling pears; you just need to follow the instructions carefully.

Each of the products is applied pointwise to the middle of the plant using a brush. The next day, the plants will be left with dark spots of burnt weeds. They should be dug up.

With this method of control, in order not to harm other plants on the site, the following rules must be followed:

Do not mow the grass for 7 days after treating the land plot with chemicals;

Apply the product pointwise, do not spray it and work with gloves;

For 2 days after treatment, do not water or rake the area so as not to spread the product around the entire perimeter. Try to keep pets away from this area of land.

Loaches in the garden, and how to get rid of loaches forever?

Loach (popularly birch) is a climbing perennial. The plant looks very cute and harmless, but it is very difficult to fight. Systematic work will help you get rid of the loach forever; fighting it takes a long time and is quite difficult. The root system of the loach is branched and can go deep into the ground up to 6 meters. The stem is highly branched and spreads along the ground, its length can reach up to 3 meters. The flowers are shaped like a gramophone trumpet and are soft white or slightly pinkish in color. Birch produces a lot of seeds that germinate easily from a depth of 20 cm.

An effective method of controlling birch is chemical. Plants should be treated with herbicides during the flowering period; at this stage, nutrients are actively supplied to the root system. The product must be applied to each bush separately, but resort to chemical method follows after the entire harvest has been harvested.

How to grow a birch tree in an empty area:

Dig up the soil and select roots;

Sow the dug up area of land with mustard;

Liming the soil in autumn period;

Mulching the soil. In the spring, cover the overgrown area with dark material - cardboard, roofing felt or even ordinary film. The soil heats up greatly and due to lack of sunlight, the weed is unable to germinate and dies.

If bindweed is already growing next to perennial crops, then the methods listed above are not suitable, and you must proceed as follows:

Constantly carry out weeding; if you systematically remove the above-ground part of the plant, the plant becomes depleted and dies;

Spot use of herbicides, apply the drug to the leaves of the weed using a sponge or brush;

Mulching the soil.

What other grass remedies are there to stop the grass from growing?

Another effective way to control grass is ammonium nitrate. Turns out, ammonium nitrate used not only as a fertilizer, but also as a weed control agent. Naturally, you will have to make the concentration “killer”; dilute 3 kg of saltpeter in a bucket of water and start processing the area.

This is quite safe method for humans, because saltpeter quickly disappears into the atmosphere in the form of ammonia, and a little liquid is needed, just moisten the leaves.

Green manure. To prevent grass from growing in the garden or garden plot they also sow rye. The plot is sown with rye after the harvest has been harvested. This green manure not only rids the soil of grass and weeds, but also fertilizes it and disinfects it. In the spring, it is embedded into the soil with a walk-behind tractor or a shovel.

In addition to rye, mustard, lupine, peas, and oil radish are sown on the site; they grow quickly and suppress the weed.

Corn flour. Corn flour contains a lot of gluten, and it prevents the germination of various seeds. You can sprinkle flour on the area where your crops have already sprouted. And the weed will not germinate for a long time.

Boiling water. Pour a kettle of hot water onto the top of the weed, being careful not to get it on good plants. The procedure must be repeated 2-3 times over several days, because this method does not always work the first time.

Also try pouring out the water in which the eggs were boiled (boiling water only). This will enhance the effect.

Vinegar spray. You need 2 tbsp. white vinegar, 3 tbsp. spoons of concentrated lemon juice, 30 ml alcohol, 2 teaspoons detergent. Dilute in a ratio of 50%-90% with water. And spray through a sprayer, carefully avoiding getting on the cultivated plants.

Folk way to get rid of grass on the site using salt and vinegar

Salt and vinegar kill all plants that come into contact with them. Therefore, this mixture should be used with caution. It also kills nutrients in the soil, so use the solution where there are no cultivated plants nearby.

Recipe for a solution of salt and vinegar: 3.8 liters of vinegar and 0.5 tbsp. salt, a few drops of any detergent (so that drops of the mixture stick to the weeds), mix everything thoroughly.

This mixture works best on a sunny, hot day when no rain is expected in the coming days. Spray the weeds in the morning, and by evening you will be pleased with the results.

Vinegar should be taken at 15%-20%; if the percentage is less, then re-processing will be required.

How to get rid of grass between paving slabs?

Grass growing between paving slabs spoils not only the quality of the area, but also the aesthetic appearance. So how do you get rid of it?

Salt. You can dissolve ½ tbsp. salt in hot water, pour into a spray bottle and treat the seams paving slabs. Any salt will do.

You can use dry salt; to do this, you need to first wet the weed with water, then sprinkle it with salt and wet it again.

You can also sprinkle a pinch of salt at the base of the weed, this will kill the weed.

Soda. To get rid of small grass, it will be enough to water them with a soda solution. For 5 l. water 2 tbsp. spoons of soda and 1 tbsp. spoon of soap. Repeat the procedure several times, maintaining a weekly interval.

Salt and vinegar. This method is also suitable for processing the seams of paving slabs that are overgrown with grass. Mixture composition: 1 liter of vinegar, 150 gr. Salts, 1 syringe liquid soap. Pour salt into a bottle, add vinegar and add soap. Shake the solution thoroughly and pour over the tile joints.

These are some simple ways to control weeds.

All of the methods described above are very effective in combating grass and weeds; they make it possible to maintain garden plot in perfect condition, which will significantly increase the yield or simply delight you with a beautiful and weed-free lawn.

Write below in the comments about your methods, and if you found the article useful, also join the discussion... Your opinion is very important. Thank you in advance!

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Use of chemicals

How else can you remove grass from the joints between paving slabs? To remove weeds, you can pour them into the space between the tiles. table salt or borax, treat with various compounds containing vinegar.

In very advanced cases they are used chemical substances, herbicides. One of them is Roundup, which has proven itself in the fight against weeds.

The use of salt, vinegar and chemicals can pose a significant threat to the soil, environment, useful plants garden or vegetable garden. With rain flows, undesirable chemicals entering cultural plantings will damage or even destroy them. It's also possible negative impact on the paving slabs themselves, they may be damaged by aggressive solutions.

Removing grass, scalding with boiling water and washing with high pressure are harmless, environmentally friendly clean ways weed control. The downside is that the effect is short-lived, forcing you to resort to them again and again.

Proper care of sidewalk paths

Proper tile care has great importance, including to prevent the appearance of grass in cracks and crevices. Damaged tiles are a convenient place for growth. The grass, growing and taking root, contributes to the rapid destruction of paths made of or paving stones.

In winter, you only need to clear snow from the tiles with a wooden or special plastic shovel. It is unacceptable to use an iron shovel for these purposes - the top layer of the tile will be damaged. The cracks will only increase over time, providing conditions for grass to grow.

Do not subject to excessive loads (driving a heavy vehicle) that may cause ground subsidence.

Avoid treatment with chemical reagents, which cause crumbling and deformation of the tiles. The paths can be painted. An additional layer will protect the integrity of the coating.

Now you know how to deal with grass on paving slabs and prevent it reappearance. To do this, you do not need to spend a lot of effort and time; it is enough to systematically prevent the strong growth of weeds. At the same time, the service life of paths and platforms paved with paving stones or cast paving slabs will be extended.

Gardeners often approach the selection of seedlings extremely responsibly, trying to plan the planting with maximum accuracy to obtain from the plants maximum benefit. They take into account not only the climatic conditions in their region, but also lighting and soil characteristics. However, sometimes owners suburban areas I'm wondering what to water the tree with so that it dries out quickly. This method, of course, can hardly be considered humane, but sometimes there is simply no other way out.

For example, if there is an old tree on the site with a trunk diameter of more than 30 cm, but it cannot be cut down because there are other structures or plants nearby. The only way out in this situation is to dry the tree using special chemicals.

There are many ways to ensure that a tree on your site dries out quickly. However, the most common of them are those that involve the use of chemicals. preparations intended to destroy plants. And no matter how harmful these remedies may be, they nevertheless allow you to perform this work as quickly as possible.

More specifically, the following chemical methods of destroying trees are distinguished:

watering plant tissues with chemical compounds;
coating leaves with special preparations;
grafting that kills trees;
placing the drug in the ground next to the trunk;
complete destruction (including the stump);
applying a chemical to the bark.

Important information! Note that most of the chemicals described below affect the root system of trees. When choosing a specific composition in mandatory take into account the composition of the soil. There are products that act on the bark or living tissues of plants.

Ideally, the tree should be cut down altogether and the remaining stump properly treated. This way you can get rid of the tree as quickly as possible. Be that as it may, first let’s get acquainted with the most effective means and features of their use.

Popular chemicals for killing trees

If you intend to use chemicals, you must select the most suitable suitable option. Below is a list of the most effective (according to summer residents) chemical agents.

Sodium nitrate. As a rule, it is used to destroy stumps, but in our case it should be applied not only to the tree trunk, but also to the ground. To get the desired effect as quickly as possible, it is advisable to inject sodium nitrate into the hollow. In about a year, the tree will be completely dry - then it can be burned. And if you water the soil with this saltpeter, the tree will dry out only after a few years.
. It is very reminiscent of the previous remedy, but still somewhat different from it. For example, ammonium nitrate is made from urea, which is extremely dangerous for plants and can greatly accelerate the decomposition of wood. This contributes to the fact that the root system quickly transforms into good fertilizer. It is advisable to uproot the trunk, which is already clearly drying out or has dried out, and treat the exposed root system again with this chemical.
Picloram. A very effective product that is used for spraying or watering the soil to destroy plants. When exposed to picloram, the root system is inhibited, and the tree, as a result, dies.
"Mikado RK". Clopyralid and picloram are systemic substances
"Roundup", "Tornado". These herbicides are used more often than others if it is necessary to quickly destroy a tree. Effective for eliminating both deciduous and coniferous plantations.
Arsenal, Arbonal. These preparations are distinguished by the fact that they penetrate directly into the wood, so they are recommended for use in forest thinning. At the same time, these products are also actively used in agricultural plantations.

Note! A tree is still a living organism, which should be killed only in extreme cases. Don't get too carried away with this procedure.

Now, having familiarized yourself with the main chemicals, capable of quickly drying out wood, let’s consider which processing methods are most popular. Some of these methods involve the use of one or another of the drugs described above.

The main methods of destroying trees with chemicals

Let’s immediately say that there are many such methods, so we will consider only the most effective of them.

Method number 1. Application of chemicals to living tissue

The tree bark is an obstacle due to which herbicides cannot penetrate the vascular tissues of the plant. Therefore, in order for the product to reach its destination, make downward cuts on the surface of the trunk, but do not tear off the bark. Use a small ax for this. As a result, notches and cuts should be made along the entire circumference of the trunk.

Use the herbicide you have chosen after making the cuts - apply it to the wood tissue.

Note! Do not use herbicides in the spring because the sap that oozes from the cuts will prevent the chemical from absorbing.

Method number 2. Watering the soil with herbicides

Individual preparations can be used for uniform application to the soil surface. After rain or artificial watering, the herbicide will enter the root system. To concentrate the chemical in one place, you can resort to installing barriers in the ground (for example, concrete).

Note! This method is advisable to use in cases where it is necessary to destroy several or many trees at the same time.

Method No. 3. "Killer" injections

They are very close in their principle of action to method No. 1, and differ only in that they are used to introduce chemicals into tissues. special devices. Maximum efficiency methods is achieved if a targeted effect is applied around the circumference of the trunk in increments of 5-10 cm. Injections are made at a height of approximately 1 m from the ground. The method is used for trees whose trunk diameter exceeds 5 cm.

Step 1. First, prepare a drill, as well as a drill for it, the diameter of which is 5-10 mm.

Step 2. Make holes 4-5 cm deep as described above. It is important that the drill is at an angle of 45-50° relative to the ground surface when working.

Step 3. Take a simple pharmaceutical syringe, fill it with the product, active substance which is glyphosate (for example, “Ground”, “Tornado”, etc.), or, alternatively, pour the chemical directly into the holes. The concentration of glyphosate in the product must be at least 200 g/l.

Herbicide "Ground"

For example: to dry a tree with a trunk diameter of 35 cm, you will need 35-40 ml of a product in which the concentration of glyphosate is 360 g/l.

Step 4. Seal the holes with earth to hide traces of injections, remove the shavings and see if the drug leaks out (the latter is good because it dries for a long time and is clearly visible on the bark). Soon enough the plant will begin to dry out.

Note! You can use other herbicides, but it is still better to give preference to preparations with glyphosate, since they are immediately inactivated by soil microflora after the root system dies.

Heavier herbicides based on sulfometuron-methyl or imazapyr, on the contrary, after the death of trees, penetrate into the soil and often kill plants located nearby. Although you can take care of the barriers described earlier.

Method number 4. Treatment of leaves with preparations

This method is very popular when destroying bushes whose height does not exceed 4 m. It can be used from the beginning of spring to the end of summer (more exact time depends on the specific herbicide). The effectiveness of the drugs is noticeably reduced if the weather is dry and hot, and the tree suffers from moisture deficiency.

If preparations are applied to the leaves of crops with large annual growth, this can lead to the appearance of excess growth (the only exception is certain extremely susceptible species). If you use this method, it is not necessary to impregnate the barrel with chemicals.

Method No. 5. Simultaneous destruction of trunk and stump

Here, first, the tree itself is removed using an ax or chainsaw, and then a chemical is produced. stump removal (more details on this at the end of the article). If you use this method, apply the herbicide only to a fresh stump. If the diameter of the trunk is large, treat only the outer edge of the stump (no more than 5-10 cm), including the cambium - the internal tissues of such trees are mostly already dead.

If the trunk diameter is less than 10 cm, apply the chemical to the entire cut surface. Apply the drug immediately after cutting the tree - this way the effectiveness will be maximum.

Method number 6. Processing tree bark

Measure 30-35 cm from the ground surface, make a mark on the trunk and treat the area below this mark with a chemical. It is advisable to hold the event in spring or summer. Before applying, mix the product with oil, then treat the bark until it is completely saturated. What is typical is that this method is applicable to all trees, regardless of what type they are and what size they are.

Greenhouse cleaning work begins with clearing debris and washing the structure. And the first stages are carried out even before the onset of frost. Read more about this in.

Below are some helpful tips to help you remove your unwanted tree.

Note! It is believed that with east side the root system grows to the height of the crown, while from the west it grows to ½ of this height. You can use this rule of thumb.

Alternative Methods

There are also several alternative ways, allowing the tree to dry out quickly. Let's look at the most effective, and therefore popular, ones. For the convenience of visitors, the information below is presented in table form.

Table. How else can you treat wood to make it dry?

Methods, illustrations	Description of actions
	It has long been known that salt destroys vegetation when it enters the soil. Therefore, salt can easily destroy the roots and the tree itself. It is advisable to use a salt solution if you are concerned that the vegetation near the tree may also be destroyed. Water the soil with the solution while it absorbs it. The salt concentration depends on the size of the tree (the larger it is, the more it should be).
	You can block the flow of moisture and oxygen to the roots - to do this, you just need to fill them with concrete to the very base of the trunk. After 2-4 weeks, the roots will die, and the tree itself, accordingly, will begin to dry out. This method is advisable if a path is planned to be built in place of the tree.

Hi all. Denis Povaga writes. We wrote this article together with the blog editors. I’ll start, and then I’ll hand over the keyboard to the editor. So…

In general, I went for a run and mowed the top layer of all the large grass, and on the 3rd day I mixed the preparation. Let's take what we have in order...

Trimmer to mow the grass (by the way, if you mow often with a trimmer, the same dandelion, its root system weakens and it dies. You can check this point... I will check it differently, with the help of a drug that I spray on the third day after mowing...). Probably, this thing cannot be classified as a folk remedy)). Although…

3. And the drug itself is LINTUR. This is probably already herbicide. What a word...)) In fact, I’m not that experienced in these matters. But the seller said that this particular one is the strongest and most correct weed killer. But this is still worth checking, since the effect begins in 1-2 weeks. But now, 4 days after the treatment, I see that the new leaves of the dandelions are curling, as if they were sick. It is clear that something is destroying him. And this something is the effect of the drug. Just in case, after a month I think I’ll treat it with the same Lintur, and additionally, after another couple of weeks, I can try another weed control drug - BIS-300. I already grabbed this myself in the store, for my confidence (15 rubles each bag). According to the instructions, Lintur was diluted to 5 liters. The red flask was just full...

By the way, here are the instructions for use, for those who need it... It’s all simple:

I hand over the keyboard and give the task to the blog editor. Thank you. Follow the comments, I will keep you updated.

Getting rid of grass and weeds in the garden once and for all

Summer is a fleeting and beautiful time, and no one naturally wants to spend time in the garden, pulling out and weeding the grass, so effective methods and means have been invented that make life much easier. So what are these methods and how to apply them?

Today, there are two popular methods to combat harmful vegetation:

Mechanical,

Chemical.

The first method involves manually pulling out the weed along with the rhizome. However, there is no guarantee that the grass will not grow again with renewed vigor. When cultivating the area, use gardening tools to pull out the grass by the roots and not leave them in the soil.

The chemical method involves the use of herbicides; with their help, you can completely clear the soil of grass and weeds. This is an effective method, but not very cheap.

The weed has high vitality and fertility; it grows everywhere - in the garden, in the field, in the vegetable garden. Can be carried by water, wind, or on the soles of shoes. Their seeds are not harmed by low temperatures, and germination is maintained both after 3 and 70 years.

They take moisture, nutrients, light from cultivated plants, and are also often carriers of various diseases and pests.

There are a great variety of weeds, and each type causes harm to cultivated plants in the garden.

How to get rid of dandelions? What herbicides can be used for dandelions, and what is the best treatment for dandelions?

Dandelion is very insidious; just one flower is enough for it to spread throughout the entire plot of land. Its seeds scatter over long distances and germinate on any piece of land. But it is very difficult to remove dandelion. This is all because of its powerful roots, which grow and can reach up to 30 cm, but in turn they are flimsy, which makes it difficult to completely remove them from the soil. From what remains, a new dandelion easily grows.

In the fight against dandelions, all means are good, so chemicals are used, and to be precise, herbicides. However, they also kill cultivated plants, but don’t despair, there are drugs with selective action. To combat dandelion, you can use ordinary vinegar as an herbicide. The more effective weed control is, the higher the concentration of acetic acid. The percentage of acidity in table vinegar can be increased by evaporation.

Another effective method for combating dandelion is salt. If you salt a flower with salt, then after a while a dark spot will form in this place, but you need to act precisely because... salt also kills cultivated plants.

Another effective method is boiling water. Boil a kettle and water methodically, trying to get to the center of the plant.

Each of the products is applied pointwise to the middle of the plant using a brush. The next day, the plants will be left with dark spots of burnt weeds. They should be dug up.

With this method of control, in order not to harm other plants on the site, the following rules must be followed:

Do not mow the grass for 7 days after treating the land plot with chemicals;

Apply the product pointwise, do not spray it and work with gloves;

For 2 days after treatment, do not water or rake the area so as not to spread the product around the entire perimeter. Try to keep pets away from this area of land.

Loaches in the garden, and how to get rid of loaches forever?

An effective method of controlling birch is chemical. Plants should be treated with herbicides during the flowering period; at this stage, nutrients are actively supplied to the root system. The product must be applied to each bush separately, but the chemical method should be used after the entire crop has been harvested.

How to grow a birch tree in an empty area:

Dig up the soil and select roots;

Sow the dug up area of land with mustard;

Liming the soil in the autumn;

If bindweed is already growing next to perennial crops, then the methods listed above are not suitable, and you must proceed as follows:

Constantly carry out weeding; if you systematically remove the above-ground part of the plant, the plant becomes depleted and dies;

Spot use of herbicides, apply the drug to the leaves of the weed using a sponge or brush;

Mulching the soil.

What other grass remedies are there to stop the grass from growing?

Another effective way to control grass is ammonium nitrate. It turns out that ammonium nitrate is used not only as a fertilizer, but also as a weed control agent. Naturally, you will have to make the concentration “killer”; dilute 3 kg of saltpeter in a bucket of water and start processing the area.

This is a completely safe method for humans, because saltpeter quickly disappears into the atmosphere in the form of ammonia, and a little liquid is needed, just moisten the leaves.

Green manure. To prevent grass from growing in a garden plot, rye is also sown. The plot is sown with rye after the harvest has been harvested. This green manure not only rids the soil of grass and weeds, but also fertilizes it and disinfects it. In the spring, it is embedded into the soil with a walk-behind tractor or a shovel.

In addition to rye, mustard, lupine, peas, and oil radish are sown on the site; they grow quickly and suppress the weed.

Boiling water. Pour a kettle of hot water onto the top of the weed, being careful not to get on the good plants. The procedure must be repeated 2-3 times over several days, because this method does not always work the first time.

Also try pouring out the water in which the eggs were boiled (boiling water only). This will enhance the effect.

Vinegar spray. You need 2 tbsp. white vinegar, 3 tbsp. spoons of concentrated lemon juice, 30 ml of alcohol, 2 teaspoons of detergent. Dilute in a ratio of 50%-90% with water. And spray through a sprayer, carefully avoiding getting on the cultivated plants.

Folk way to get rid of grass on the site using salt and vinegar

Recipe for a solution of salt and vinegar: 3.8 liters of vinegar and 0.5 tbsp. salt, a few drops of any detergent (so that drops of the mixture stick to the weeds), mix everything thoroughly.

This mixture works best on a sunny, hot day when no rain is expected in the coming days. Spray the weeds in the morning, and by evening you will be pleased with the results.

Vinegar should be taken at 15%-20%; if the percentage is less, then re-processing will be required.

How to get rid of grass between paving slabs?

Grass growing between paving slabs spoils not only the quality of the area, but also the aesthetic appearance. So how do you get rid of it?

Salt. You can dissolve ½ tbsp. salt in hot water, pour into a spray bottle and treat the seams of paving slabs. Any salt will do.

You can use dry salt; to do this, you need to first wet the weed with water, then sprinkle it with salt and wet it again.

You can also sprinkle a pinch of salt at the base of the weed, this will kill the weed.

Salt and vinegar. This method is also suitable for processing the seams of paving slabs that are overgrown with grass. Mixture composition: 1 liter of vinegar, 150 gr. Salts, 1 syringe of liquid soap. Pour salt into a bottle, add vinegar and add soap. Shake the solution thoroughly and pour over the tile joints.

These are some simple ways to control weeds.

All of the methods described above are very effective in controlling grass and weeds; they make it possible to maintain your garden plot in perfect condition, which will significantly increase the yield or simply delight you with a beautiful and weed-free lawn.

Write below in the comments about your methods, and if you found the article useful, also join the discussion... Your opinion is very important. Thank you in advance!

Author of the publication

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Alina Comments: 2 Publications: 15 Registration: 06-03-2017

Most likely, it is the weeds that make it difficult to care for your summer cottage.

It turns out a strange pattern. Nobody specifically plants weeds, but they appear on their own and grow so “well” that sometimes it is difficult to even get rid of them.

And they don’t need weeding, and they don’t need fertilizing, they don’t even need watering. They grow, as they say, by leaps and bounds.

Yes, for many gardeners this is perhaps the most a big problem. But is everything so hopeless? Can be used quite successfully in fighting folk remedies from weeds.

Folk remedies for weeds

Salt. You can prevent the growth of weeds, for example, with salt. This method has been known for a long time and is considered quite successful.

The soil where weeds grow needs to be watered with a “vigorous” solution, or you can simply sprinkle the ground with salt. It will take 1.5 kg per square. And if this procedure is done early in the morning or before rain, then the work is reduced to a minimum, since nature itself will do the watering.

But this method has an important disadvantage. This is the impossibility of planting plants in this area for a long time. It is for this reason that it is recommended to use salt not in the garden itself, but, for example, on paths or paths.

Vinegar. It is considered a replacement herbicide and does an excellent job in controlling weeds. In addition, it is available in any kitchen. Prepare a solution for spraying.

You need to take 2 tbsp. vinegar and water, a bag of lemon, 30 gr. alcohol, a couple of teaspoons of detergent. All this is mixed well and the weeds are sprayed.

But when spraying, you need to make sure that the solution does not get on the crops. The presence of alkali in the solution can destroy any plant.

Some folk remedies for weeds effectively help fight small plants. Particularly soda. Since this substance is alkaline, even weeds can be successfully destroyed.

The solution must be made concentrated in order to destroy the weed, as they say at the root. But cultivated plants must be at a distance of at least 20 cm.

But alcohol can be used about a month before planting crops. This procedure will help disinfect the soil and help prevent the growth of weeds. So for 2 acres of land you will need 11 liters of alcohol. Alcohol is diluted in a ratio of 1:10 and watered.

Some folk remedies for weeds are not always effective, but you still need to look for exactly the method that will help.

So, according to some gardeners, you can get rid of weeds with the help of feed grain, in particular corn. They claim that this product is able to stop the growth of weeds at the seed stage.

Germination is prevented by gluten, which contains a “contraceptive” agent. This method is best used in mid-summer, when several weedings have been completed and the crops are of a certain height for which growth blocking is no longer dangerous.

If we talk about organic products, you can use newspapers, sawdust, paper and cardboard. They are scattered between the beds in the autumn before frost begins in a layer of 10 to 15 cm.

Video - How to destroy weeds

Mechanical removal of weeds in the garden is very labor-intensive work and, moreover, often not very effective. After some time, plants appear in the beds again, depriving garden crops of the much needed nutrients. The thing is that even with the most thorough weeding, small roots still remain in the ground weeds, giving shoots. There is only one way out of this situation - to use a special chemical preparation designed to completely destroy unwanted plants in the garden or yard. This weed killer is called a herbicide and is sold in any specialty store. There is also a less effective, but also less harmful to the soil and cultivated plants, “folk” analogue of such preparations - ordinary vinegar with salt.

Classification

Currently, only two types of herbicides are used to control garden weeds:

Selective. Such products act selectively on one or another type of weed.
Non-selective. Herbicides of this variety, when applied to the ground, destroy all vegetation without exception.

Herbicides also differ according to their principle of action. A weed killer (instructions for using herbicides will be discussed below) can penetrate plant tissue:

through the leaves to the root;
through leaves and soil into all parts of the plant, including seeds;
only through the soil.

Recently, preparations have also been developed that destroy moss and saturate the soil with useful micro- and macroelements.

In addition, herbicides can be contact or systemic. The first type of preparations has a detrimental effect on weeds only in direct contact with their parts. Systemic herbicides, after contact with the leaves, penetrate into the tissues and spread throughout them, destroying all parts of the weed, including roots and stems.

The “folk” remedy, vinegar with salt, also classified as a herbicide, can be classified as a systemic one with general action.

Selective drugs

There are simply a huge number of herbicides of this type that cope well with weeds. Very often, summer residents use, for example, “Zenkor”, “Foxtrot”, “Eraser”, “Puma Super”, “Lazurit” to clean beds.

When using any weed killer on your site, you must follow the dosage specified in the instructions for use. At too high concentrations, these drugs may have Negative influence both on the soil and on cultivated plants.

Operating principle and use

Selective herbicides contain special substances that inhibit the development of plant tissues and cause their death. These could be, for example, ACC inhibitors. These substances prevent the formation of fat in plant tissues, as a result of which their cells stop growing. Selective herbicides may also contain various kinds elements that imitate plant hormones.

Any weed killer should, of course, be used correctly. Most often, areas are treated with herbicides by spraying. The solution can be poured, for example, into a spray bottle. It is advisable to treat weeds in calm weather, trying not to get on cultivated plants. The spraying time should be chosen so that there is no rain for 24 days after it.

Selective herbicide "2,4-D"

This drug is considered the most effective means selective action. It has been used to control weeds since 1940. To date, more than 22 herbicides have been created based on “2,4-D”, successfully used in agriculture. The main active ingredient of this drug is 2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid. It is a white crystalline substance. The herbicide “2,4-D” is moderately toxic and belongs to the second hazard class.

The growth of weeds after treatment with this drug stops within a few hours. The herbicide “2.4-D” is produced in the form of 50 and 61 percent solutions, as well as 70 and 72 percent concentrate. It is used mainly to control annual dicotyledonous weeds in wheat and corn crops.

The best herbicides for the garden

To treat beds with tomatoes, peas and potato plots, a preparation such as “Agritox” is very often used. This herbicide has a detrimental effect on weeds such as grass, nettle, shepherd's purse, cornflower, dandelion, wild radish, arrowhead, etc.

Cucumbers and other cucurbits can be sprayed with Halosulfuron or Bensulide. Linuron is perfect for carrots. Herbicide "Lazurit" is used for all types of vegetable crops.

The best weed killer for your lawn

The most popular product intended for treating lawns is the selective herbicide Lontrel-300D. This product is very effective in controlling both annual and perennial weeds. Using it, you can clear the lawn of such types of grass as sow thistle, Tatar molokan, knotweed, cornflower, coltsfoot, legumes, chamomile and, most importantly, the persistent dandelion. At the same time, it causes absolutely no harm to lawn grasses.

General drugs

Herbicides of this variety are usually used not for spraying beds, but to kill weeds in the yard, along the edges of the lawn, along paths, etc. You can also treat the soil with these preparations in early spring before planting crops. They are completely removed from the soil within about a month. The main active ingredient in general herbicides is most often ferrous sulfate.

Treatment with non-selective preparations is also usually carried out by spraying. Some herbicides, both selective and general, are available in dry form. They are either diluted with water or scattered around the area (on damp soil).

Herbicide "Roundal"

This is the most popular weed killer today. continuous action. It spreads through plant tissues within 5-10 days. Around the same time, the first signs of damage appear on their leaves. Weeds die about a month after spraying. It is best to treat plants with Roundal in sunny, warm weather. There is no need to mow the grass. The greater the vegetative activity of the weed, the faster Roundall will spread throughout its parts, and the faster it will die.

For cultivating the soil before planting garden crops(vegetables, potatoes, melons, oilseeds, etc.), as well as for the complete destruction of grass along paths, hedges or in the yard, the drug "Roundal" is diluted in a proportion of 80-120 ml per liter of water. Spraying or watering is carried out at the rate of 5 liters per 100 m2.

Herbicide "Tornado"

This is another popular drug, also often used by summer residents. This herbicide is usually sold in bottles. The manufacturer recommends spraying with a product diluted in three liters of water. However experienced summer residents It is advised to use the Tornado herbicide a little differently. To avoid touching other plants, the drug should be diluted in a bucket. The treatment is carried out using a broom, carefully “lubricating” the weeds with the solution.

Best remedy: vinegar with salt

Of course, store-bought herbicides are effective and easy to use. However, such funds are usually quite expensive. In addition, most summer residents prefer to use any chemicals in the garden as rarely as possible.

Therefore, many owners of suburban areas try to replace purchased herbicides with “folk” remedies. Acetic acid is usually used as the simplest and safest. For spraying beds, a 5% solution is most often used.

To treat your yard, you can also use a more effective “folk” weed killer – vinegar and salt. Prepare such a herbicide as follows:

3.8 liters of vinegar 9% is poured into the bucket;
half a glass of salt is poured there;
add a little liquid soap;
everything is thoroughly mixed.

Use vinegar weed killer in the same way as chemicals. Spraying should be carried out as carefully as possible. Drops from the spray bottle should not be allowed to fall on crop plants. Best time for processing - early morning.

Typically, white vinegar is used to kill weeds. You can also take apple one. Summer residents who decide to use this “folk” herbicide should be aware that in large quantities it can leach nutrients from the soil.

“Folk” weed killer: reviews

Many summer residents use vinegar to remove unwanted plants in their yards and beds. However, reviews about it online are quite contradictory. What do they say about this weed killer? Vinegar and salt have no effect on chemical composition soil has no harmful effects, since it very quickly decomposes into carbon dioxide and water, some believe. According to others, the splitting process takes a long time, and the use of vinegar can negatively affect plant productivity. But in any case, maximum care should be taken during processing. Don't pour vinegar on the ground. Processing is carried out strictly on the leaves.

Of course, vinegar causes some harm to the soil in any case. However, the same “Tornado” and “Rwandal” can hardly be considered harmless. They cost much more, but the effect of their use is almost the same.

What is the best remedy for weeds is, of course, up to the owners of the dacha plot to decide. Some people prefer store-bought chemicals, while others may prefer “folk” vinegar. In any case, the use of herbicides helps save time on mechanical weeding. However, of course, such compositions should be used “wisely”. Otherwise, along with the weeds, you can “free” the garden from cultivated plants.

The word “weed” is painfully familiar to most summer residents (in the lower back, tired from endless

weeding

). And of course, I want to get rid of these “enemies” forever. Moreover, preferably - without unnecessary work. Well, let's look for ways...

The handsome dandelion is a nasty weed. Photo by the author I must say right away: my list does not pretend to be considered exhaustive. Moreover, the weed control methods collected in it are very different - some of them are “lazy”, and there are also those that require effort. Some methods have many opponents. But my deepest conviction: to choose, you need to know. You cannot blindly rely on other people’s opinions and experience - you should search and select what is right for you and for you the best way works.

Therefore, I invite everyone to the discussion: share your experience, confirm or refute the effectiveness of the described methods and methods, complement and expand my list!

Method 1 - traditional

Today many argue with the fact that the soil needs to be dug. We will not argue - this is not what we are talking about now, not about methods of cultivating the land. For those interested in this issue, I recommend reading the article To dig or not to dig? That is the question... and numerous comments to it. And to combat perennial rhizomatous weeds, digging and plowing remain one of the most effective methods.

Yes, that's enough labor-intensive process, and it has its drawbacks. But, let’s say, I have a plot on which two years ago nothing grew except wheatgrass, nettles and gooseberry. How can you quickly reclaim the land from them without digging if its entire top layer consists entirely of roots? I haven't found the answer to this question yet. So I dig, carefully selecting the roots by hand.

Digging is a way to control weeds. Photo by the author There exist here different variants . For example, digging with a pitchfork rather than a shovel means there is much less chance of damaging the rhizome and cutting it into pieces, from which new weeds will then grow.

You can plow virgin soil using a cultivator, walk-behind tractor or tractor (if you have one). In this case, it will be more difficult to select the roots, but from experience I will say: such treatment helps literally in a year or two to get rid of wormwood, burdock and similar plants with a very powerful and deep root system - you will have a hard time uprooting them with a shovel.

Method 2 - chemical

I myself do not like this method and never use it. But perhaps for some situations it turns out to be the only acceptable one, although I would not recommend using it in the garden under any circumstances - poison, which is herbicides, is poison. In addition, these drugs have practically no effect on some plants (for example, Sosnovsky's hogweed).

Sosnovsky's hogweed is a weed that is resistant even to herbicides. Photo by the author They say, however, that a new generation herbicide has appeared - Agrokiller, capable of destroying even such “monsters”. But I am always tormented by the question: what will happen to the soil into which the drug gets in? with insects or other living creatures that may accidentally stumble upon the treated plant?..

If you want to learn more about the chemical method of weed control, our publications will help you understand this difficult issue:

How to wisely use herbicides in your garden
Roundup for weeds
Roundup - clones with different names

Method 3 - biological

In order to live and develop, plants (both cultivated and weeds) need light. In the dark, vital processes in plant tissues slow down or even stop altogether. Over time, this can destroy not only the shoots, but also the root system, which does not receive the nutrition it needs.

Covering the soil with any dense opaque material(black film or mulching agrofibre; cardboard; roofing felt; boards and so on), we deprive the weeds of the conditions they need for life, and they die. True, you will have to be patient: sometimes one season is not enough for this. In addition, on the surface of such a shelter (especially nonwoven fabric) a layer of soil gradually accumulates, into which the seeds fall - and everything starts all over again.

By covering the soil with dense, opaque material, we will make life more difficult for weeds. Photo by the author However, you should be very careful when choosing material for mulching the soil. So, under the black film the earth can overheat; roofing material is capable of releasing resins, the harmlessness of which is questionable - and so on. It is important to understand and take into account such nuances.

A good alternative to synthetic cover is organic mulch. Just pour it in a thick layer (5-10 cm minimum). Sawdust, mown grass, and tree bark are also suitable - oh different types We have already talked about mulch; more details about its use are described in the articles Successful views mulch for the garden and 6 popular options for autumn mulch for every taste. And in the next video you will see how you can combine materials: in this case it's cardboard plus tree bark.

Method 4 - replacement

Where do weeds appear? That's right - where there is free, empty land. On the soil occupied by plantings, there are usually few weeds, and these are often annuals, which are much easier to deal with. What is the conclusion?

There should be no empty spaces! Part of the problem is solved by mulch, which was mentioned just above. But there are other options. For example: a garden bed becomes vacant after early greenery or harvesting of onions - we sow it with green manure or re-sow fast-growing vegetables in summer.

Phacelia is an excellent green manure and weed killer. Photo by the author Compacted plantings are also a solution to the problem. Of course, compaction must be done wisely so that the plants are not crowded and the harvest does not suffer. But with the right approach, you can beautiful beds get it and get rid of the weeds - they simply won’t have room to grow.

Details of this method and its visual demonstration can be found in our publication Weeds: a video about a replacement method of control.

Method 5 - alcoholic

The birthplace of this method is America, where it was first tested in the 30s of the last century. Its essence is extremely simple: about a month before the start of sowing, the soil is treated with a 6% solution ethyl alcohol(in our conditions this is 150 g of regular vodka per bucket of water). Alcohol stimulates seed germination, and the weeds sprout together, after which they are carefully weeded out. They claim that the effect of this treatment lasts even for more than one season! I don’t know, I haven’t tried it myself yet. Maybe someone checked? Tell us about your impressions!

Method 6 - fiery

Another exotic method is a domestic invention. Many have noticed that in beds where slow-growing crops are sown (parsley, carrots or dill, for example), weeds appear much earlier than the cultivated crops germinate. Our summer residents have figured out how to quickly destroy these sprouts: they take a blowtorch and walk along the bed, treating it with a sliding flame. The most important thing here is not to linger in one place, otherwise you can burn everything, including the sown vegetables. After treatment, the soil must be cooled by watering it with water. I blowtorch I don’t know how to use it, so I don’t plan to try this method in practice...

Method 7 - exhausting

A plant, as we know, has a root system and aboveground part are interdependent: if one is damaged, the other may also suffer. So, if we carefully cut off all the leaves and shoots at the very surface of the soil, then in order to grow new ones, the plant will be forced to use up its reserve vitality and nutrients from its roots. What will happen if we carry out this procedure regularly? Most likely, one day there will come a time when the reserves simply run out and the plant dies.

Agree, it sounds very convincing. And for many types of weeds this method is effective. But not for everyone - which also needs to be understood. However, there is probably no universal way to control weeds. Meanwhile, such processing takes noticeably less effort and time than digging, and for this reason alone deserves attention.

According to my observations, it will not be possible to completely eliminate weeds by “shaving” - the place of those who cannot withstand the execution is simply taken by more hardy species. But if you are quite happy with turf between rows or under trees in the garden, this method is probably better suited than others.

It’s not so easy to get rid of the ubiquitous dreaminess. Photo by the author Me on old dacha This method was able to significantly reduce the number of snot. I regularly plucked its shoots by hand (it was not possible to use a tool - the weed lived in viburnum thickets) and used the plucked grass as mulch. Perhaps another two years - and the whining would have been over... But I left and the experiment was interrupted. But with hogweed, already mentioned in this article, similar method it is completely useless to fight - it grows back even after repeated mowing.

For those species that can be depleted by mowing, the most important thing is not to disturb the roots. Therefore, it is advisable to use a flat cutter or a sickle - a hoe (hoe) will be less convenient here.

Method 8 - preventive

We often sow weeds in our garden beds with our own hands. This happens if you use fresh manure (it often contains many seeds of harmful weeds). This happens if you put mature herbs with seeds into the compost and then apply fertilizer that is not properly matured. In the right compost heap the temperature is usually high, and the seeds caught in it “burn” and lose their germination. But on the surface and along the edges the raw material may not be heated enough.

Exit - avoid everything that can cause problems. Use only rotted manure; form compost correctly and mow the grass in a timely manner, preventing it from setting seeds.

Method 9 - psychological

Finally - partly as a joke, but partly seriously - one little advice. Many have probably heard the popular phrase: “If you can’t change the situation, change your attitude towards it.” It's about the same with weeds. No, I don’t encourage you to put up with the “jungle” in your garden. But I think that in the struggle to keep the garden clean, we sometimes get too carried away and try to achieve the ideal. And if you allow yourself and your dacha some imperfection, and stop worrying about the fact that “over there, the grass has come out at the fence again,” you can save a lot of effort and nerves.

For example, I have a friend who is not allowed to live peacefully by weeds in the rows and on the sides of her beds. She spends a lot of time and effort to get rid of them - but they grow again and again... How could it be otherwise - nature does not tolerate emptiness... There is no end in sight to this confrontation, because it will still not be possible to get rid of the grass completely. Is such perseverance necessary, is the result worth the effort and nerves? I'm not sure…

The cuff is a weed, but how beautiful... Photo by the author By the way, many weeds (which are often “politically correct” called wild plants) have very valuable properties: they can be used to control garden pests, used as medicinal raw materials and even food product. And some are simply beautiful. But this, however, is a topic for a completely different conversation - if you are interested in it, take a look at our publications:

What benefits can weeds bring?
Spring vitamins K country table and for future use
“Song of praise” to weeds...

Tell us, how do you manage to get rid of weeds in your garden beds and flower beds? What methods do you use? Which ones have you tried but rejected, and why? I really look forward to your comments and opinions on this burning topic.

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