Instructions for installing flexible tiles: installation nuances, stages and cost of work. Technology for installing ceramic tiles on the roof Laying clay tiles

Among the variety of roofing materials, roofing from ceramic tiles. And although such a coating is quite expensive, its performance properties are fully justified financial expenses for the purchase of material. We will discuss what a roof covering is and how to properly install ceramic tiles in the article below.

Ceramic roofing dates back many hundreds of years before our existence. After all, it is based exclusively on clay, which in ancient centuries was almost the main building material. Today, tiles are also made from clay by pressing and firing high temperatures. And to strengthen finished products and giving it an attractive appearance, a glazing technique is used. That is, the surface of the tile is covered with a special glaze, which forms a protective glossy layer of the material and enhances its wear-resistant characteristics. The tiles are produced individually and sold on pallets.

Advantages of roofing material

A roof made of ceramic tiles is not only attractive and rich appearance Houses. In addition to aesthetics, this roofing material has a number of other advantages. These are:

Durability of the coating. In general, properly installed shingles can last up to 100 years or more;
Coating resistance to weather factors. The tiles are not afraid of rain, snow, wind, frost or sun rays;
Absolutely environmentally friendly material. Such coatings are made from exclusively natural components;
The possibility of installing a roof made of ceramic tiles on roofs of complex configurations. This is due to the small size of the coating fragments;
Good maintainability. If a section of the roof wears out, it can be easily replaced using required quantity fragments;
High level of noise absorption. Tiled roof and the residents under it are not afraid of the sound of rain on a stormy night.

Disadvantages of coverage

For tiles, just like any other roofing material, there are also some disadvantages. These are:

Large product weight. The final mass of the entire roof will weigh about several tons. Therefore, a reinforced rafter system is required under a tile roof.
Relative fragility of the coating. So, with very strong pinpoint mechanical impacts, the tiles can break. But this is extremely rare.
Some painstaking installation. Thus, small elements require a careful and balanced approach during installation and tile roofing, which increases the complexity of the process.

Important: High cost roofing material can also be attributed to its disadvantage. However, this is only at the discretion of the buyer.

Tip: Tile roofing is best suited for houses built on a reinforced foundation and built of stone or brick. It is worth remembering that tiles laid on wooden or foam block walls of a house will cause significant deformation and shrinkage.

Calculation work

In order for the installation of a roof made of ceramic tiles to proceed correctly and without interruptions, you first need to calculate the amount of material required. To do this, measure the length and width of each roof slope.

Then it's worth finding out usable area tiles. As a rule, it is indicated by the manufacturer. But it should be borne in mind that it may vary depending on the length of the overlap during installation. And that, in turn, changes depending on the slope angle of the slope. In particular, the picture looks like this:

For a slope with a slope angle of 25 degrees, the overlap is 100 mm;
For a slope with an angle of 35 degrees - an overlap of 75 mm;
For a slope with a slope angle of 45 degrees or more - 45 mm.

Thus, from the length of one tile you need to subtract the overlap you need in your case and then multiply the resulting value by the width of the tile. We get the useful area of one element.

It remains to convert the area of the slope and the area of the element in mm and divide the first value by the second. Let's get the number of tiles needed for one specific roof slope.

Important: the number of required tiles is calculated for each slope separately. Especially if there are turrets, triangular slopes, etc.

Advice: if the roof has a slope angle of less than 22 degrees, then it is advisable to protect it with a diffuse membrane. The required amount of material is calculated by multiplying the total area of the roof slopes by 1.4. The resulting value is rounded up.

Installation of tile roofing

Preparation

It is worth understanding that laying ceramic tiles requires thoroughness and leisure. The slightest mistake in carrying out the work and at the very least everything will have to be redone again. In the worst case, the roof will leak.

First perform preparatory work in the form of sheathing and roof waterproofing. The sequence of actions looks like this:

Along the rafter legs at the very bottom (20 cm from the edge) a drip line is attached, which will protect the tree from getting wet. It is fixed with self-tapping screws along its entire length with overlaps at the joints. The apron is tucked under the rafters.
Now two longitudinal beams are attached to the valleys on both sides of it. The ends are cut flush with the eaves overhang. The distance between the beams is approximately 10 cm.
The valleys are laid on top of the beams diffusion membrane inscription up. It will save the corners of the roofs from leaking. The membrane is trimmed along the eaves with a margin of 15 cm per hem.
Now lay a membrane on each slope before laying the tiles. The roll is rolled out over the rafters and gradually secured with a stapler. On triangular slopes, the membrane is attached with 5 cm overlaps on the opposite slope.
The membrane is attached to the drip using double-sided tape and pressed tightly.

Sheathing device

Now, in order for the ceramic tiles that we started installing to be firmly fixed on the roof, we need to properly arrange the sheathing. Start with the bottom support beam. The actions are performed in this order:

The support beam for the bottom row of tiles is filled along the drip. And the remaining ventilation gap under the eaves is covered with a perforated mesh. This will protect the under-roof space from birds settling in it.
Now is the time to attach the second support beam at such a distance from the drip edge (supporting bottom beam) that part of the tile hangs over the drainage channel by 1/3 of its width. To do this, you will have to attach the tile and try on its length. We mark the place where the timber is attached and fix it.

Important: using a level you need to ensure the evenness of the timber.

Then top beam The lathing is nailed at a distance of 3 cm from the intersection of the counter-batten beam in the ridge area.
The sheathing provides support for the top and bottom of each row of shingles. Therefore, it is important to correctly calculate its step. To do this, you need to measure the distance from the outermost upper and lower support beam of the sheathing. We divide the value by the useful height of one tile. We get the number of support beams. We place them at a distance, equal to length one tile. We apply all the marks with a control cord, so that later it will be easier to correctly fix the beams.
Now the stuffed timber needs to be cut along the edge from top to bottom in one line so that it protrudes no more than 30 cm from the edge rafter leg.
Counter battens are also installed under the sheathing beams along the edge. Then the edge of the remaining membrane is folded over it and secured with a stapler.
And all that remains is to fill the front board along the timber covered with the membrane. The remainder of the membrane is cut off.

Along the eaves, fastenings for the gutter are installed in increments of 70 cm. The slope of the gutter must be at least 3 mm for each meter of its length along the slope. Therefore, it is necessary to number the curved fasteners before fixing them and then arrange them in the desired order.

Important: the edge of the gutter closest to the wall should be 1 cm higher than the farthest one. To do this, all fasteners must be correctly bent at a given angle using a bending bracket.

All fastenings are fixed with self-tapping screws. Then a pre-assembled gutter is installed on them. The ends of the gutter are covered with a plug tip. The drainage pipes are connected to the gutter in accordance with their instructions.

Now you need to attach a plastic apron to the lower edge of the overhang, which will go over the edge of the gutter and prevent water from getting onto the wall of the house.

Waterproofing device in the valley

In this place it is necessary to install increased lathing due to the heavy snow load in these places. The technology for laying tiles involves installing the valley gutter from the bottom up. It is fixed at the top with two self-tapping screws. The next section of the gutter is laid with an overlap on the lower fragment and is also fixed with self-tapping screws. The groove on both sides is fixed with special staples in increments of 20-30 cm. The joints are glued with sealing tape and rolled with an orlik.

Laying tiles

The first tile must be laid on the lower outermost beam of the overhang so that its outermost projection joins the front board. In this case, the supporting tenon of the tile is knocked down with a hammer.
Now we lay out a row of tiles and fix each of them with a self-tapping screw through the drilled hole.
Then we lay the column of roofing material, moving from bottom to top. Each tile is attached at the top with a self-tapping screw. You can also fix the tiles using special clamps, but this takes longer.

Important: all tiles are laid from right to left and from bottom to top according to the applied markings.

To lay the tiles in the valley, you should mark it with a cord so that the overlap of future elements on it is at least 8 cm. The tiles must be cut with a grinder at an angle.

Important: Avoid small triangles of tiles in valleys that are difficult to secure. To prevent this from happening, you can use half parts of the roof in the rows, shifted away from the valley. That is, in the valley there should be a large piece of tile cut at an angle.

The visible part of the valley, not covered with tiles, should be no more than 13-15 cm.

Tip: to lay a ceramic roof on a triangular roof slope, you need to mark the middle from its top to the base. Then the tiles are laid, moving to the sides from the center of the base of the triangle. The outer tiles are cut at an angle when laying.

Now we install the ridge beam and cover it with a membrane. The ends of the timber are covered decorative elements. The ridge beam is covered with ridge tiles fixed on special clamps. The corners of the roof slopes are also covered using the same principle.

Advice: since tiles on a pallet weigh about a ton, you should correctly distribute the load on the rafter system when lifting the roofing material to the top. And to do this, the raised covering is laid out in stacks of several pieces along the entire perimeter of the slope.

Installation of ceramic tiles is a complex process for a person without experience, requiring reinforcement of the roof truss structure. Ceramic tiles weigh ten times more than metal tiles, since their base is clay. Any mistakes when laying roofing material can lead to serious problems, so entrust all work to better for professionals. But if you are confident in yourself and your abilities, then first read the instructions for installing ceramic tiles given in this article.

Installation rules

Remember the basic rules for installing ceramic tiles, which will simplify your work:

Installation is carried out from right - left, bottom - up
Before laying the slabs, they are lifted 5-6 pieces onto the roof and evenly distributed over it.
Compared with metal roofing for a roof made of ceramic tiles, it is necessary to strengthen the truss structure by 15-20 percent
The optimal roof slope for installing ceramic tiles is 50 degrees. Minimum slope- 11 degrees
The pitch of the lathing and counter-lattice is 30 centimeters
It is better to deliver tiles to the construction site immediately before the start of work
Ceramic tiles are transported by truck on pallets. The weight of one element is from 2 to 4 kilograms

Tile calculation

Use the table to determine the number of tiles. Useful width and length are the dimensions of the tiles. Measure the roof area and make the appropriate calculations.

Should I use ceramic tiles?

Many people have a question: “Is it necessary to cover the roof with ceramic tiles?” After all, it is difficult to install, and this process is labor-intensive, because you need to lay one element at a time. It is much easier and faster to cover the roof with ondulin or metal tiles. Let's try to answer this question.

Here are the benefits of ceramic tiles that make some home owners use them as a roofing material:

Ecological cleanliness. Ceramic tiles are made from clay according to all requirements. Thanks to firing at a temperature of 1000 degrees, the material acquires a brownish-red hue.
Duration of operation. Ceramic tiles can last up to 100 years! And no corrosion will occur. This material is durable and reliable, non-flammable and noise-absorbing
Uniqueness. A roof covered with ceramic tiles is radically different from others. But this, again, is a matter of taste
High resistance to ultraviolet radiation and precipitation
Easy to replace damaged roof sections

Flaws:

Heavy weight
High price
Difficulty of installation
Brittleness under high mechanical loads

Whether to use ceramic tiles or not is your choice. Compare all the advantages and disadvantages, compare them with other roofing materials and make the right choice!

Video about installation of ceramic tiles

The laying of ceramic tiles is justified by the outstanding technical and aesthetic qualities of the material, the reliability of which is confirmed by almost a century of operation. Created by sintering natural components, natural tiles withstand the entire range of atmospheric factors. However, in addition to the advantages, the coating, which is “difficult” in terms of price and weight, also has disadvantages, namely the labor-intensive installation of piece elements and the need to scrupulously follow technological requirements.

Preparatory stage and calculations

Installation of ceramic tiles can be divided into two standard stages. The first of them consists of careful preliminary calculations and thorough preparation, the second part of the work is direct installation.

How many tiles should I buy?

Bath roofing from natural tiles may have one, two, four or more slopes located under different angles. The tiles are installed with an overlap, the size of which depends on the steepness of the roof. The value obtained by subtracting the length required to form the overlap from the total length of the ceramic element is the useful length of the material. The usable width is indicated by the manufacturer in technical documents.

Based on the area obtained as a result of multiplying these “useful” parameters, the number of pieces required to equip one meter of roofing is calculated. But it is better to count the number of horizontal rows and vertical analogues, dividing the corresponding roof sizes by the usable width and length. All results obtained are rounded up with the expectation that entire ceramic parts will need to be trimmed.

Have you calculated? Now add another row of tiles to the result, as required when working with building ceramics, for “breaking” and trimming. Do not forget, using the same values, to calculate the number of additional parts for arranging the gables and ridge.

Calculation of material for waterproofing

Correct installation of natural tiles on roofs with a slope of up to 22º is carried out with the obligatory installation of a waterproofing layer. It is recommended to use rolled membrane material, laid with overlapping sheets of 10 cm, with overlaps along the lines of gable and pitched overhangs of 15 cm, with overlaps through protruding corners of 15-20 cm. The amount of material is calculated by multiplying the total area of the slopes by 1.4.

Note. To ensure ventilation, the waterproofing membrane is laid at a distance of 30 cm from the ridge line. The ridge will need to be equipped with a special insulating tape.

The inlet will need to be left in the chimney passage area and in the wall junction area if the bathhouse is attached to a residential building.

Calculations of rafter legs and sheathing

The approximate weight of natural tiles per 1 m² of roofing is 40 kg. You also need to add snow load, characteristic of a particular region. Therefore, the rafter system must be powerful enough. But for its construction it is not necessary to use thick timber, it is enough to shorten the installation step of the rafter legs. Optimal choice for the rafter leg - timber with rectangular cross-section with side sizes of 75 and 150 mm, maybe a little larger or smaller. It is recommended to install trusses every 90 cm, or even better after 60 cm.

To construct the sheathing, you need to buy timber with dimensions of 50×50 mm; a rectangular analogue of 40×60 mm is also suitable.

Important. The laths laid along the eaves should be approximately 15-20 mm wider than the ordinary elements. This is necessary to form a uniform plane of the slope, because the previous elements overlap.

The number of rows of sheathing is equal to the number of horizontal rows of tiles plus one row running along the eaves.

How much fasteners will be required?

For fastening you need galvanized screws and special clamps. Fix ceramic coating elements in areas of high wind load. IN mandatory the bottom row is attached, running along the eaves line, the row along the pediment and the ridge. If the installation of a roof made of natural tiles is carried out on a steep roof with a slope of more than 50º, additionally ordinary elements are fixed in a checkerboard pattern. In this option, one fixed tile will hold the upper and lower “neighbors”.

An important stage of preparation is verification.

Before constructing the lathing for ceramic coating, in order to avoid annoying mistakes and distortions, the dimensions of the equipped rafter system need to be measured.

At this stage, you can adjust the direction of the horizontal slats by arranging them in a fan pattern. In such situations, the distances between the laths are increased towards the larger pediment.
Deviations in the vertical direction are eliminated using an identical fan method, by creating a slight backlash of the elements in the required direction.

Begin checking with diagonals along the slopes. If their sizes do not match, you need to measure each side of the pitched rectangle separately.

If roofing ceramics are installed on top of a waterproofing underlayment and insulation, the roof will need to be provided with two ventilation gaps. The first gap will be between the thermal insulation and the waterproofing membrane, the second between it and the coating. So natural ceramic tiles, wooden parts and the insulation will be freed from excess moisture, thanks to which they will serve for a long time.

The first ventilation gap can be formed either by installing the sheathing or by laying a 5 cm thick edged board along the ridge. waterproofing material diffusion film will be used in the formation of this ventilation duct not necessary.
The second gap for ventilation is provided by the installation of a counter-lattice.

The entire area is covered with waterproofing flooring. Laying the canvas begins from the bottom, moving towards the ridge. Lay in a horizontal direction with obligatory overlap and fastening the sheets together with a stapler or tape. You will also need to fix the flooring around the perimeter in increments of 20 cm.

Note. Between the slats, the flooring should sag slightly. Approximately 3 cm. Thanks to the sagging, the accumulated condensation and moisture will flow into peculiar recesses without lingering on the building materials.

Next, the sheathing under the tiles is installed according to the calculations described above. After installing this element of the roof structure, control measurements are taken again. Verified correct installation lathing in a plane. If deviations of more than 5 mm are detected, leveling is carried out by lining wooden elements under the poles.

Installation of ceramic elements

To ensure that laying natural tiles does not lead to destruction of the rafter system due to intensive movement along it, all the required material is lifted onto the roof at once. But you cannot place a heavy box of tiles on the rafters; you need to lay them out in stacks of 5 or 6 pieces, evenly distributing the batches over the roof.

The first step is to lay out rows along the ridge and cornice without fixation. If it is not possible to place only whole parts in a row, trimming the ceramic elements is done on the ground grinding tool with a disc for cutting stone.
Through the directions obtained as a result of the initial layout, the lines of the upcoming laying of vertical columns are marked with a dye cord. It is imperative to outline the pediment line and then lines every 3-5 vertical rows.
The laid out tiles are fixed as indicated in the installation instructions for natural tiles, attached to the product by the manufacturer. According to the rules, they start from the lower right corner of the roof, moving in a row to the left, then up.
Installation and fastening of additional parts for the ridge and gables is carried out. Before installing the shaped elements, it is installed on the ridge edged board, located edgewise. It should not come into contact with the ridge tiles. At the intersection points of the gable and ridge parts, they need to be adjusted to each other by trimming.

Experienced builders

Installing roofing ceramics is not an easy task. It is advisable to entrust it to professional performers. But even if installation is ordered, the owner needs to know the sequence and purpose of construction operations in order to promptly identify technological violations.

The use of modern ceramic tiles for roofing requires taking into account a number of requirements associated with the significant weight of the roofing material used. Despite all the undoubted advantages of this type of coating (such as reliability, durability and originality), installation of ceramic tiles can only be done on pre-reinforced rafter structures.

Due to heavy weight natural material laying ceramic tiles is allowed only on roofs whose inclination angle does not exceed values ranging from 12 to 50 degrees. At large angles of inclination, there is a need to strengthen the rafter system through the use of additional elements, increasing the rigidity of the entire structure as a whole.

Preparing the base

After strengthening the rafter system and immediately before laying ceramic tiles, you will have to perform a number of standard operations related to the arrangement of the so-called “roofing pie”.

The list of these measures traditionally includes the following standard operations:

preparing waterproofing to protect the entire structure from moisture and avoid fungal infection of the wood;
arrangement thermal insulation coating, which additionally protects the roof from heat leaks through “cold bridges”;
covering a layer of vapor barrier, thanks to which the roof will be reliably protected from condensation.

Waterproofing protection is required at roof slope angles up to 22 degrees. When calculating material requirements (taking into account all necessary allowances) total area stingrays should simply be multiplied by 1.4.

To fix the waterproofing layer on the rafter beams, you can use a special stapler used for fastening rolled materials. In this case, the amount of overlap of each subsequent layer on the previous one should be at least 10–15 cm.

To avoid heat loss through roof structure under the waterproofing it will be necessary to lay a layer of insulation, which can be used mineral wool or foam plates. When forming this layer of “roofing cake”, it will be necessary to provide ventilation gaps created artificially. Such gaps can be formed in the spaces between thermal insulation and waterproofing (by building up the sheathing elements) or by installing the so-called counter-lattice.

When preparing the sheathing itself, you should always remember that it is on it that the tile blanks will be laid in the future, so the distance between the individual beams should be selected taking into account the size of the tile sheet.

When arranging the roof, one should not lose sight of the issue of its vapor barrier, since the presence of condensation in the area of the insulation significantly reduces the effectiveness of thermal protection. To reliably protect the heat-insulating layer from destruction by condensate, an overlap will be sufficient vapor barrier film within 10‒15 cm.

Before the beginning installation work first of all, you will need to lift all the prepared tiles onto the roof; however, due to the large weight of the material, it will definitely be necessary outside help. Upon completion of lifting the tile sheets, they should be laid out in small stacks (3-4 sheets each) evenly over the roof surface, which avoids deformation of the sheathing under the weight of the temporarily stored material.

In accordance with generally accepted rules, tile sheets are laid on all roof slopes simultaneously, alternating every two to three rows.

One-sided laying of sheets on any of the pitched structures can lead to uneven distribution of loads on the foundation elements, which creates a risk of damage to the latter.

The construction instructions for the installation of natural tiles contain standard requirements for the order of their installation, carried out in the direction from the roof overhang to its ridge and from left to right. This procedure involves the formation of the bottom row of tiles, laid out along the roof eaves, without securing it to the rafter base (sheathing). This technique allows you to adjust the position of the elements of the cornice strip when laying the next row.

When forming individual parts roofing We advise you to pay attention to the following details:

To fix the first and second rows, it is best to use special galvanized screws.
Do not forget to leave a small ventilation gap (about 1.5-2 cm) in the area of the eaves overhang, which is used to ventilate the under-roof spaces.
To securely fasten the cornice and ridge rows of tiles, it is advisable to provide several additional attachment points for them.

Connection to chimneys

Even at the stage of placing the waterproofing, the material used is carefully trimmed and placed on the chimney wall adjacent to the laying plane. After this, you can mount it on the wall in any way convenient for you.

Directly near the chimney, the tiles are laid with a small gap (about 2-3 cm). To obtain a reliable connection, you can use a special corrugated tape made of aluminum or copper, painted to match the color of the tiles. In this case, using a piece of tape of the required length, the front part pipes (with a slight overlap), after which the same operations are repeated for its sides.

Experts believe that to protect the back of the pipe, it would be more reliable to use two strips at once, combined into one with a slight overlap. Reinforcing the protective layer on the back side of the chimney will allow you to get a very reliable connection, eliminating the possibility of rain moisture and snow getting inside the structure.

More details about the installation procedure below:

Arrangement of the roof ridge

When installing a tile covering in the area of the roof ridge, the main attention should be paid to the correct placement of the material in the area where ridge beam. To design the ridge zone, special tile blanks (slats) are used, which allow the upper edge of the roof to be rounded, thereby ensuring reliable connection of all covering elements.

Individual ridge zone blanks are fixed to the sheathing elements using screws (self-tapping screws) of a suitable size.

The position of each ridge strip is selected in such a way that there is a gap of approximately half a centimeter between it and the sheets of tiles being laid.

Note that such ridge blanks must be mounted on top of a special sealing tape, which allows the formation of a small gap necessary for ventilation of the under-roof spaces. In this case, each individual rail is attached to the supporting structure using a small bracket included in the ridge covering kit. Upon completion of their installation, special additional elements are installed to cover the end part of the ridge.

Video

The rules for installing ceramic tiles are discussed in more detail below:

If you've ever looked at a good-quality clay tile roof, you've probably wondered: what holds all the shards together? Don't they fly off for an hour? How many people do you need to install natural tiles at such a height, and is it really possible for just one or two people to do it? And do skill and experience play a big role in such a process?

Such questions always arise for those who decide on this beautiful and centuries-old roofing covering. After all, with fragile modern analogues everything is more or less clear: cut, stick, secure with a self-tapping screw - and everything is ready. What to do with such heavy weight elements as ceramic tiles, what to fasten them with and how to ensure the safety of people below?

Yes, of course, from century to century roofing masters passed on and improved their experience, but they also baked shards individually and by hand. And modern manufacturers have not only established large-scale production, but also completely changed the approach to installing tiles, for which they have shown ingenuity and added special accessories.

Where to start then? We will now try to illustrate the entire process in as much detail as possible.

Let's start with the most important thing - design. In addition to the shingles themselves, you will need waterproofing substrates, an eaves overhang and a ridge with a valley:

Think in advance which of these elements you will need, how many tiles will be used for the slopes (calculate by area, and for 1 square meter the consumption is usually 9-15 shards).

And also decide right at this stage whether you will use in the future attic space as residential, because the structure of the roofing pie itself depends on this:

Stage II. Assembling the rafter system

Competent and high-quality installation is one of the most important conditions durability of tile roofing. Let's look at its main stages. Let's start with the preparatory work.

Before laying the tiles, be sure to check the geometry of the rafter structure, measure the diagonals and compare their lengths. Any unevenness must be leveled out because tile locks have an extremely small range of motion.

Those. You will not be able to correct defects using the roofing itself, unlike a soft roof, which can go around any radius.

Therefore, arm yourself with a two-meter strip or cord and check all planes. The deviation should not be more than 5 mm along a length of 2 m. Now, for convenience, arrange the tiles in stacks of five or six pieces on opposite slopes to create a uniform load on the rafters.

If you have decided on roofing pie, proceed to installing the rafter system. Optimal step rafters - up to 75 cm, because natural tiles have quite a significant weight.

The sheathing is the base on which the tiles rest, so it is important to correctly calculate the sheathing pitch so that you get a whole number of tiles on the roof. Therefore, using a level, make sure that the beam is located strictly on a horizontal surface. Are you using parallel bars? conifers, without passing knots and wane. For rafters that are installed in increments:

no more than 75 cm, take bars with a section of 30 by 50 mm;
exceed 90 cm, bars 40 by 50 mm are needed;
if the rafter pitch reaches 110 cm, then the bars should measure 40 by 60 mm or 50 by 50.

To make the correct marking of the rows, a marking cord is used. It is pulled according to the marks made.

Consider especially carefully the location of the counter-lattice where the attic window will be located:

Now start installation cornice strip or dripper, whose task is to remove condensate and prevent wooden structures from getting wet.

Installing drip pipes is generally the simplest of all installations:

Stage III. Installation of waterproofing and sheathing

Once the base is ready, proceed to the waterproofing device:

Step 1. Nail the bars on both sides of the valley to the rafter legs.
Step 2. Place on top of the counter-lattice waterproofing membrane, necessarily with the inscription and the front surface facing up.
Step 3. Trim it along the edge of the eaves overhang with a margin of at least 15 cm. Lay it starting from the right bottom corner, and fix it with a stapler, aligning it with the drip. Double-sided tape will help you with this.

Here's what it looks like in practice:

Now nail the counter-lattice directly to the rafters, on top of the membrane, at intervals of approximately 30 cm. Cover the ventilation gap under the eaves with perforated ventilation tape.

To find out the optimal position of the bottom support sheathing, you need to try on the shingles from the bottom row and the gutter bracket. The support sheathing beam should be fixed at a distance of 32 to 39 cm from the bottom edge:

At this stage, it is very important to properly waterproof the gable overhangs:

By the way, to make the gable overhangs look beautiful, special side tiles are attached to them.

You can also resort to traditional way, arranging the pediment with carved boards, which are also called piers. They just need to be treated with an antiseptic and protected with a metal apron.

Stage IV. Gutter installation

Now install the gutter on the pre-mounted mount. Attach a clamp to the wall of the building drainpipe and assemble the elbows with connecting elements.

Cover the ends of the gutter on the gables with a universal cap so that the gutter does not interfere with the installation of the lower gable tiles.

And connect the straight elements of the gutter with a connecting element and close with inner side using clamps that are attached to the additional sheathing:

Stage V. Working with the valley

Lay the valleys starting from the eaves overhang, from bottom to top. After laying, it can be trimmed by 3-4 cm to prevent the groove at the top from slipping.

If you need to pick Exact size valley, then you are guided by this simple principle:

if the length of the valley is no more than 4 meters, the width of each half should be 20 cm, and when unfolded, about 55 cm.
if the valley is long enough, more than 4 meters, then in the unfolded state the steel sheet should be at least 66 cm wide.

Secure the valley to the sheathing with two screws. Trim the tabs on both sides for a tight fit, secure with self-tapping screws, and seal their joint with sealing tape.

At each edge of the valley groove, install a self-adhesive foam rubber strip with water-repellent impregnation.

On both sides of the valley, along the entire eaves overhang, an overhang aero-element is attached, which should not extend into the valley further than 10 cm from the edge of the groove, otherwise it will trap debris, fallen leaves and snow melting there.

Make sure that the visible part of the valley is at least 13 and 15 cm. The fact is that if the groove is completely covered with tiles, then rainwater will accumulate in it.

Stage VI. Laying tiles on slopes

So, now that everything is ready, try on the gable tiles on the gable overhang, which should lie with a gap of 1 cm from the front board.

On the sheathing, mark the left edge of the pediment tiles, and to the left of it, mark the position of future columns after 90 cm, at the rate of 30 cm per column.

Using string, apply these markings to the sheathing. Now lay out the lower first row of tiles freely, while carefully checking the position of every third tile using the previously made marks.

The support spike, which will rest on the front board, needs to be knocked down with a hammer, as in this photo master class:

Now fasten each tile of the bottom row with a self-tapping screw through the holes drilled in the ridge, and lay out the first column of gable tiles along the previously marked vertical line. At the same time, fasten each tile at the top with two screws.

After this, lay the tiles on the slope, from bottom to top, along the vertical markings applied to the sheathing:

To walk on a tile roof, all you need is a harness—you can step on it anywhere. Laying and marking tiles on hipped and hip roofs start from the middle of the slope. To do this, you will need to find the middle of the triangle: simply lay out a vertical row of tiles from the very top, right in the center, and now lay the bottom row.

After this, mark the vertical rows where you can, and lay the tiles from bottom to top, in rows, starting from the middle of the slope towards the ridges.

Stage VII. Fixing tiles using different methods

Now let's talk about fastening the tiles. Up to 60 degrees, most of the tiles do not need to be fastened at all; only the bottom row on the overhang, the top ridge rows and the side gable rows must be fixed.

They also fasten all the trimmed tiles, which are usually located on the valley, ridges and adjacent to the walls, roof windows and hatches. In regions with strong winds, shards are additionally secured with wire.

But groove tiles, which are also called castle tiles, are produced separately. It has the largest area and profiled shape, and this tile differs from others in the presence of locks.

The locks consist of two edges, top and side, which overlap the adjacent ones, snap into place and ensure reliable tightness of the coating. In addition, at the bottom, such tiles have protrusions that, during installation, cling to the sheathing bars.

The most popular models of such tiles are double S-shaped, Dutch and S-shaped Marseilles. Most of them have sliding locks, so the shingle periods can be made as wide or as narrow as possible. Thanks to the presence of such sliding locks, the tiles fit perfectly into the existing spacing of the bars, and there is no need to trim them:

In addition, basically all tiles today are produced with two manufactured holes for screws. They are not end-to-end, it is worth noting.

Therefore, if you decide to fasten the tiles, then these holes need to be drilled with a 6 mm drill and fixed at the top to the sheathing using two anti-corrosion screws 4.5 by 50 mm, and at the bottom with anti-wind clamps.

Also, if the slope has a length of more than 4.5 m, additional ventilation tiles must be installed on it. This is placed in the third row, in increments of 1 meter. If the slope is more than 7 m, then the ventilation tiles are laid in two rows:

Ventilation tiles are also needed where chimneys or skylights, because they create obstacles to air circulation under cover.

Stage VIII. Window bypass and waterproofing of junctions

There, natural shingles go around the skylights, you will most likely need half shingles (unless you timed everything perfectly). Place it next to the others and try to close the joints as much as possible.

We have prepared for you a detailed master class on waterproofing the junctions of natural tiles with windows and chimney pipes, so that you can understand all the intricacies of such work:

Here is another example of how to “fit” a window into a tiled roof:

Stage IX. Trimming tiles for valley joints

To correctly lay the tiles in the valley, use a string on the groove to mark the hanging line so that the overlap of the tiles on the groove is 8-10 cm. After this, cut the tiles at an angle along the marked line. Just don't use small, triangular pieces of shingles that are difficult to secure.

To move a column and provide high-quality fastening, you will need half shingles. Approximate consumption – 1 piece for 2 rows:

For convenience, first number the cut tiles and remove them from the sheathing. To cut tiles, we advise you to take an angular cutting saw, with a power of 2 kW and a diamond blade with a diameter of 22.23 cm, which is specially designed for dry cutting of heavy concrete. Protect your eyes with goggles or your face with a respirator.

By the way, accuracy will be achieved on a water-cooled machine. Wash the cut tiles with water to remove dust and let them dry. Since you will not cover the cut edges with anything, cover them with cold engobe to match the color of the roof - this is sold immediately with the tiles.

To properly secure the cut tiles to the ridges, take special clamps from of stainless steel. These clamps come in two types:

anti-wind, which attract the tiles to the sheathing;
universal, which support the tiles in weight.

The wire fastener is screwed to a nail, which is driven into the nearest lath. And sometimes the wire is used so thick that it itself is driven directly into the sheathing instead of a nail.

Stage X. Installation of ridge tiles

To install a natural tile roof ridge, follow our detailed master classes. Here's how to install a ridge on a ceramic tile roof:

If under such a roof you will be residential attic, then use the aero element, which has the largest cross-section for ventilation - this is “Figarol”. If in the under-roof space there is only cold attic, then ventilation will be provided by any other aero element.

To install ridge shingles, bend the beam holders so that when installing the beam, the distance from the top edge of the beam to the top edge of the rafter matches what you previously measured.

Trim the tiles so that the gap remains 2-3 cm. Fasten the trimmed tiles to the sheathing with corrosion-resistant screws 4.5 and 50 mm, or directly to the ridge using copper wire. Special stainless steel clamps are also suitable.

You will need to place one holder at the end and the beginning. After this, tighten the lace and install the intermediate fastener directly along it.

Stage XI. Fixing the spine tiles

Ridge structure hip roof start with the installation of the spinal bars. To calculate their height, you need to lay two ridge tiles on top of the rows. Start measuring from the narrow end. The spine block should be lower than the ridge tile so that it rests on the waves nearby. Leave at least 1 cm between the spine bar and the inner surface of the ridge tiles.

Now be careful! Metal fastenings The spine beam needs to be bent and installed at the beginning and end of the spine. Mark the intermediate brackets along the lace in increments of no more than 60 cm.

Install the backbone beam directly into the mount and secure with nails or self-tapping screws. To ensure ventilation of the roof, cut the tiles on the ridges diagonally with a gap of 1-3 cm from the ridge beam and secure them with clamps, which are secured with screws on the opposite side:

On a triangular slope, mark the middle of the slope on the lowest and highest sheathing, and from this mark, to the right and left towards the ridges, lay out the bottom row. Lay out all the following rows as well, starting from the center.

For ventilation of the under-roof space you can use roll material"Figarol". Roll it along the axial tape for the backbone beam and secure it with a regular construction stapler, in increments of 30 cm.

Remove the protective tapes from the rubber strips, press the material on the sides with a roller (just do not press the central part). At the top of the hip, “Figarol” is laid with an overlap on another slope.

Start installing the initial spine tiles with a slight protrusion, and secure with two screws with plastic washers through drilled holes in the upper and middle parts of the tiles.

All upper spine tiles must be trimmed at the top of the hip along the joint line. Simply lay the hip tiles on top, and their outline should be marked on the ridge tiles so that they are cut 6 cm above this line. And finally, the finishing work. Lay out the ridge tiles on the ridge in the same pattern as on the hip, the only thing is that the tiles that go to the valley need to be trimmed on both sides.

To create a beautiful roof spine, use starter spine shingles. It should be installed with a small allowance and secured with galvanized screws 5x70 or 5x100 mm.

Stage XI. Additional roofing elements

pay attention to proper organization eaves overhang, which must correspond to all technical requirements: collect water and provide air access to the under-roof space for high-quality roof ventilation. And also not to be devoid of aesthetic appeal.

Additionally, a ventilation tape and a cornice aero element are installed here:

On finishing stage the ends of the slopes are covered with a protective strip made of steel sheet. Further along the length of the rafters, at the edge of the eaves overhang, an aero-element against birds is fixed, if the rafters are less than 8 meters, and a rigid profile with perforation, if the rafters are longer than 8 meters. At the same time, it supports the bottom row of tiles.

As you have already seen, old and modern technologies They combine perfectly with each other and allow you to build houses without losing the spirit of their history, while taking only the best from centuries of experience.