What makes a good compressor? How to assemble an electric air compressor yourself

Those who had the opportunity to compare painting by spraying and applying with a brush will, of course, give preference to the first. The difference is especially noticeable when applied relatively dark coatings for light materials. Paints, tinted varnishes, colored impregnations and wood stains, all of this looks much neater when sprayed with compressed air.

In addition, the source compressed air in any workshop, and in addition to work related to painting, blowing is very useful (for example, periodic blowing of a power tool, even without disassembling it, significantly increases its service life, especially during brick and concrete construction work, cleaning hard to reach places other mechanisms from dust), convenient inflation of automobiles, bicycle cameras, a source of low, but still rarefaction (for impregnation under a “conditional vacuum”, for example wood linseed oil during production musical instruments, deep painting of wood with stains, impregnation of finished transformer coils with varnish, this should probably also include improving the quality of stickers on templates from epoxy resin and fiberglass, which modelers love to do). The compressor is the basis for the device sandblasting, used both for cleaning materials and for decorative processing wood and especially glass. With sufficient pressure, and most importantly, performance, you can power a pneumatic tool with it, which is significantly more durable compared to an electric one.

So, we got the idea of usefulness. Of course, the easiest way is to choose a model suitable for your tasks; fortunately, the assortment in tool stores allows you to purchase one. But for some reasons, the main one of which is often cost, many take on self-production.

Below is the history of my efforts in this sense. The compressor was taken from a retired refrigerator, which narrows the range of possible tasks to small painting, “conditional vacuum” and careful blowing. However, by connecting several of the same type in parallel, you can increase productivity and expand responsibilities to large-scale painting and, probably, sandblasting. But turn it into handy tool quite simple - you just need to add a receiver, a little electrical and air piping and install everything on some kind of base. In addition, a refrigerator compressor, compared to a construction compressor, is miraculously good for its barely audible operation. At fine works where concentration is required, such as airbrushing, this is very important. In the rest, it's just nice.

What tool was used for the job? Actually, a vulgar set metalworking tools, welding inverter(good, but not necessary, you could do it with bolts), a gas torch for soldering tubes or a powerful electric soldering iron(and solder and flux for it), a smaller soldering iron and a set for rough electrical installation (pliers, screwdrivers). It is convenient if you have an electric tool - for cutting pieces of iron and drilling holes, construction hair dryer for working with thermal tube insulation, plus some idea of how to use all this, and of course a bit of patience and accuracy, where would we be without it. Yes, if we want beautiful, rust-free pieces of iron - sandpaper, metal paint, brushes, appropriate solvent.

To begin with, it’s worth finding the main components.

The stove from which he danced was a unit of the same name from an old domestic refrigerator - a compressor. With some luck, you can find one completely free of charge - ask your friends and acquaintances to see if such a broken rarity is gathering dust in the garage or country house, ask around at scrap metal collection points.

You will also need a receiver - a container for temporary storage of compressed air so that the compressor does not work continuously. Its volume is a kind of compromise; on the one hand, it would be nice to have more, on the other hand, I would still like some mobility. Adhering to the principle of “buy less,” look for some suitable vessel similar to a cylinder, in the same place as the compressor. You can dial the required volume from several. Small ones can be used gas cylinders(an option is to collect a few from tourist gas burners, of those larger ones, in places of decent tourist stops in all sorts of nature reserves, there are literally a bunch of them), a tank or several from broken ones blowtorches, fire extinguishers finally.

A few pieces of hardware for the base - a frame with a handle for easy carrying. Regular rolled metal, whatever you have on hand, you can probably find something in any scrap metal, fortunately, you need small pieces.

A little thin copper tube, as an option, tear off the coil from the back wall of the same refrigerator from which the compressor was “bitten” and cut off the wire “fins” from it. True, you often come across iron, not copper, however, it is also soldered with the appropriate fluxes.

Strapping.

For ready-made compressed air, it is necessary to provide a reducer that allows you to obtain a constant specified pressure at the outlet and a pressure gauge with which to control this same pressure. This is important for painting and airbrushing. You'll have to buy it.

A certain fitting at the outlet with a tap, so that it doesn’t whistle when the receiver is inflated, but you need to change the tool. We will connect a hose to it. Better is the “quick-release connector”, a snap-on type thing, expensive, but very convenient - you can operate it with one hand and you can use standard orange spring hoses. In addition, there is no need for a faucet - when disconnected, it instantly closes the compressor outlet. He only manages to utter a short angry PF.

Pressure switch. For the compressor to turn off, it turns on on its own, focusing on the pumping level of the receiver. You'll also have to fork out the cash.

Good wires for wiring electricity - a decent cross-section, double insulated (so that it can be carried safely through the pieces of iron, or in those places reinforced with a heat pipe), a reliable cord with a plug.

As if everything.

First photos.

Well, the frame with the handle is ready, His Majesty the compressor has been sanded off from rust and put in place, the receiver is as seen from a powder fire extinguisher. Consoles from a monstrously thick corner are welded to it, despite the “thinness” of the cylinder. Somewhat excuses my frivolity is a complete lack of experience in welding and some self-confidence. Yes, so the corners should be half as thin, and generally soldered. I remember I burned a fair amount of holes in the fire extinguisher, and then got tired of plastering them. And now, in the current “bottom” of the receiver there is a nut and bolt welded in - a faucet for draining condensate.

On the back of the fire extinguisher there is a pressure switch, and behind it is a standard relay for the compressor. The location of the nodes, among other things, is dictated by a convenient connection by an air tube - from the compressor to the receiver, with an outlet to the pressure switch.

On the other side. The wires are old pieces from the refrigerator, we don’t have time for them now.

Compressor relay. This piece of iron around it was taken and completely cut out from the refrigerator with its fasteners; here it is simply welded to a new place.

The piece of iron that holds the pressure switch is also from the refrigerator. It was somewhere down there, near the compressor. It turned out to be a designer mount.

Now we solder the tubes. The super task is retraction. Where there were big holes, I wound it copper wire. In order to solder a thin tube into a thick fire extinguisher pipe, we also had to “thicken” the end of the tube with several layers of wire. By the way, the tube passing through the plug is iron. Originally from a donor refrigerator. It’s okay, she’s soldered in like a sweetheart. The original miniature fire extinguisher pressure gauge is completely useless - it is designed for three times the pressure and has a scale graduation of the “many-little” type. It was a hassle to remove it, I left it for beauty.

Painting parts. IN different colour. Design, so to speak.

The compressor, by the way, with its sole is also welded to the frame to death.

The important part is the intake air filter. Soldered from a tiny tin can.

Household compressors for painting are available in large quantities in networks retail. Although it is worth saying that their price is quite high and depends on the manufacturer and its power.

Today we will tell you how to make a compressor for painting at home with your own hands. In this case, its price will not be significant, and instructions will also be provided in which you can look at photos and videos and do everything quickly and correctly.

We make it at home

First you need to do right choice compressor for painting. This will depend on the amount of work being done. If you use it for commercial purposes and make money from it, then it’s worth making it more powerful.

Attention: The higher the power of the compressor, the higher its price. But if you are painting cars or other small structures, then you should stick to the middle power range.

What is needed and how it works

We will be assembling an air compressor for painting, using a regular inner tube from a vehicle/auto as a basis.

For assembly homemade compressor we will need:

Vehicle/auto camera. It will play the role of a receiver in our unit.
A pump, it is better to use it with a device - a pressure gauge. His role will be to pump things up.
Repair kit.
Awl for comfortable work.

Now after preparing all the parts, we can start assembling the station:

The first step is to check whether the chamber allows air to pass through, whether there are any holes or pores in it. We pump it up. If during the process we discovered depressurization of our facility, then we can stick patches on the right places, or treat the raw condition with rubber.
The next step is to make a hole in the receiver. For these manipulations we will need an awl. Next, we put the nipple from the camera there, it will act as an outlet for the air stream when our device is operating.
We attach and glue the optional fitting. It was precisely for this purpose that we initially prepared our repair complex. Then we attach the fitting itself. To make sure that the air leaves the container normally, you just need to unscrew the nipple.
However, we will not touch the nipple itself installed on the chamber; its role will be to perform the function of a valve, as well as maintain the required level of pressure flow. To know the pressure volume, we have to spray the paint material onto the surface. If the enamel is applied to the metal in even layers, then our work is done correctly and at a high level.
A pressure gauge can also help us determine the pressure level. Even after turning on the airbrush, the pressure should also be uniform.

The process of assembling a homemade compressor for painting is relatively simple and does not require special knowledge and skills, but its comfort and convenience begins to be felt immediately. It is much easier to carry out paint work using an airbrush than using a balloon.

Attention: To the last tips we can add that you need to carefully ensure that streams of dust or liquid do not enter the vehicle’s camera in any way.

If these elements still make their way there, you will have to prepare the paint for the job again. At proper operation The compressor will serve for a long period of time, but if possible and desired, the air should be pumped in automatic mode, it is much more convenient and simpler.

We assemble the compressor with our own hands at a semi-professional level

It is possible to assemble such a unit, which in its properties will in no way be inferior to special compressors from leading developers. We will take a regular refrigerator as a basis.

To complete the work, you will need a number of spare parts and assemblies, namely: a receiver, a filter, various adapters, oil, switches and other parts, which we will get acquainted with later. Let's consider the operating principle of this unit.

To make the process much simpler, the engine of our unit will be a compressor from regular refrigerator, which was produced in the Soviet Union. An undoubted advantage is the presence of an injection unit relay. Domestic refrigerators have a higher pressure level than their foreign counterparts, which is an important advantage. After the block has been removed, it must be prepared for use; the corrosion layer must be cleaned.
For such work we use a corrosion converter so that oxidation reactions stop taking place. This is how we produced preparatory work motor.

Having done everything necessary preparatory activities, we can start changing the oil. After all, if you don’t lie too much, then there’s almost no refrigeration unit behind long years continuous operation has never undergone an oil change. This solution justifies itself, since during these works our mechanism is fully protected from external air.

To change the oil, we use semi-synthetic material. Its properties are no different from compressor oil and contains the additives we need.
The second step is to find three tubes on our compressor, two of them will be in an open state, the second in a sealed state. In the operation of our installation, the first two tubes will serve to pump air in different directions (it will enter and exit). To determine the move air masses, we need to turn on our injection unit to the network. Next, we carefully look at where the air is sucked in, and at what point it leaves our unit.
The tube, which is sealed, will act as an oil changer. From here we have to get rid of the closed part of it. For such work, we can take a regular needle file and make a cut around the circumference of the tube. Please ensure that pieces of chips and metal dust do not end up inside the injection unit.
Next, we break off the back part of the tube and drain the oil into a special container. This is done in order to determine the subsequent volume of the next pour. Using a syringe, we inject a small amount of new semi-synthetic oil.
When new oil is introduced, it is important to turn off the entire engine lubrication mechanism. We must pick up the screw, having previously wrapped it with tape, and screw it into a tube. It must be remembered that a small amount of semi-synthetic oil will sometimes leak out of the back of this tube. To avoid this, we need a special oil separator for work.
Once we have successfully completed the previous assembly steps, we can proceed to the next steps in creating our blower setup. The work begins with mounting the engine with the relay on a wooden bed. This must be done in such a way that it is like on the frame.
Such measures must be carried out, since the injection unit relay is very sensitive to its position in space. Actions must be precise, since correct settings the correct functioning of the compressor operating modes will depend in the future.

Air capacity

Where to get air capacity? For such purposes, we need a canister that is used in fire extinguishers. All this depends on the fact that they have high strength to the pressure exerted on them; they are ideal as a canopy.

So:

As a basis, we take a fire extinguisher under the brand name OU-10. It has a ten-liter air volume and high level strength to the tested pressure. We unscrew the locking mechanism, then install the transition device.
If you come across traces of rust, you need to get rid of it promptly. using a corrosion converter. We place the above liquid inside the can and begin to shake it.
After the rust has been removed and there are almost no traces left, we attach the crosspiece. During this work, we created two important spare parts for the future injection unit.

We carry out the assembly

To ensure that the parts do not interfere with each other, they must be immediately installed on the base. To make it, we take a board; the engine of the future injection unit and parts of the fire extinguisher will be attached there.

We use special threaded pins to install the engine on a wooden base. We insert the pins into the pre-made holes. Nuts will come in handy more than ever. You also need to drill a hole to mount the fire extinguisher. Other sheets are attached using self-tapping screws to our wooden base.
We place the receiver on a vertical level; we will need three sheets of plywood for such purposes. Makes a hole in one plywood for attaching a spray can. We attach other sheets with self-tapping screws. We glue them to the receiver sheet.
In advance, we hollow out a hole in the wood base for the receiver and its lower part. Finally, so that the installation can move, we will assemble ordinary wheels from ordinary furniture, which are attached to the base.
Once we have completed the above collection work, we need to ensure protective functions our installation from dust flow. For these purposes you will need gasoline filter, which usually plays the role of coarse filtering. Its task is to become an air intake in our blower installation.
Next we take the rubber hose and compressor tube. At the compressor inlet low level, it is important to remember this, i.e. We will not need to increase the contacting properties with the help of clamps.
Those. We have already made an inlet filtration system for our compressor. At the outlet of the installation we attach an oil separator, which will protect the device from the penetration of parts of the dust flow. We will also need a power filtration mechanism. Since the pressure level at the output of the system is high, here we will need vehicle clamps.
Now we have smoothly approached the oil separator filter. We put it into operation by connecting it to the input part of the gearbox. The gearbox serves for decoupling and the output part of the compressor, i.e. We screw the cross into the outlet part on the left, and on the right side we attach a pressure gauge (this is how we will monitor the pressure level). We attach a control relay to the top of the cross.
The control relay allows you to adjust the level of discharge pressure height, as well as, if necessary, turn off the power supply to the compressor.
With the help of these spare parts, we will turn on our injection unit if the pressure level is low and, on the contrary, turn it off if the parameters rise sharply.
To adjust the level of recommended compressor pressure, you need to use relay springs, there are two of them. The largest spring is used to create pressure at a low level, the small spring for maximum pressure, it also serves to regulate the shutdown of the installation.
PM5 were originally collected for water supply, they represent simple switches from two contacts. One contact in our version is designed to work in a network where the voltage is at a level of two hundred and twenty volts, while the other contact works to communicate with the injection unit.
We provide power through a toggle switch to connect to the second input with the injection unit. If our circuit already has a toggle switch, we have the right to quickly turn off the system.

It goes without saying that all contacts must be properly sealed and insulated. Now we can paint our compressor with peace of mind and start trying to paint with it.

We monitor the system pressure

Now that our installation is ready, it's time to check how it works or run some tests. We connect an airbrush or spray gun. Without touching the toggle switch itself, we connect our system to electrical energy.

We set the relay to the lowest possible pressure level and connect the injection unit to electricity. We look at the indicators and characteristics on the pressure gauge, monitor the level of supplied pressure. After we have found out that the relay turns off the compressor engine, we look at the contacts and their sealing properties.
To determine the tightness, use a regular soap solution. If the entire installation has successfully passed all tests, then we must necessarily remove air below the level to start the entire blower mechanism. If the pressure level reaches the required limits, the relay starts the compressor system itself. If everything works as expected, we can begin the colorful work.
To paint metal surfaces and foundations, initially there is no need to prepare the very foundation for the work. All we need to do is set the required pressure level on our injection unit.
Such tests give us a chance to measure the necessary technical characteristics that will allow layers of paint to be applied evenly. It is also necessary to remember that such painting work was carried out with a minimum of operation of the injection unit.

Instead of output

After completing all the above work and putting our injection unit into operation, we can sum up the first results. Thus, the process of assembling the compressor itself is not particularly difficult for all vehicle owners; special knowledge and skills are not required here.

It would be foolish not to say that the second type of compressor is much more complicated in terms of its assembly and the availability of the necessary spare parts and materials. However, due to the pressure in automatic mode and the special starting system of the entire injection unit, such a compressor is the most convenient and pleasant to use.
Also, you will not need to monitor the receiver. This installation can also be used for painting indoor gates or other surfaces.

Attention: It is not difficult to make a compressor for painting yourself; it is also important to do regular maintenance. Especially often they fail due to failure to change the oil. Therefore, monitor its quality first.

You now know how to choose a compressor for painting and can do everything yourself. Pay attention to the tightness of the joints and then the compressor will serve you for a long time.

A compressor can bring a lot of benefits to various fields life. Perhaps you need a device for quickly inflating car tires, or you have decided to take up airbrushing, but you don’t have the appropriate equipment, and you don’t want to buy it. You can solve this problem by making a compressor yourself. We will talk about how to do this and what is needed for this.

Make or buy

Before you learn how to make a compressor with your own hands, you need to understand how and what problems it can solve homemade version, and how to deal with them with a store-bought unit. In this regard, everything depends more on the direction for which you need a compressor. If you need it for simple tire inflation, then you can use a homemade one.

It’s another matter if you are drawn to creativity. It doesn't have to be airbrushing to trip over imperfections. home option. The thing is that painting requires a uniform and uniform air flow. It should be free of debris and other small particles.

If these conditions are not met, grainy paintwork or other types of defects may result. This is what you should think about first when you see photos of homemade compressors.

To all of the above, you can also add heterogeneous stains and drips, which will be a problem even when painting a bicycle frame, let alone car parts.

Despite this, both types of compressors are designed pretty much the same when it comes to the basics. In any case, you need a reservoir in which the air is under high pressure. It can be generated by manual injection, or it can appear from mechanical action.

If the first option is cheaper to implement, then it is worth considering that the work will be much more difficult, because you will constantly need to monitor the pressure level inside the compressor.

If the compressor is equipped with additional automation, all you need to do is add oil or change it from time to time. The result of the operation of such a device will be a constant and uniform supply of air, which can play a very important role important role for you.

Preparation

Here we come to step by step instructions for assembling a compressor at home. If we talk about its advantages, then first of all it is worth remembering the volume of operation, because such a unit will work significantly quieter than the factory version. To do this, you will need to tightly connect all the components, but this work is worth the effort.

What can you make your own compressor from?

First, you will need something that can replace the receiver. A simple one works well for this. car camera. Next you will need to find a simple pump with a pressure gauge installed. It is needed to increase the air pressure inside the chamber. To this we add a simple awl, a repair kit for the wheel and a simple nipple for the camera.

First of all, you need to make sure that the chamber is still sealed and does not leak air. If it turns out that she cannot cope with her tasks, in conditions high blood pressure the consequences can be serious.

If during the inspection you find air leaks, then the chamber needs to be sealed, and this is best done using vulcanization.

Since our camera will serve as a receiver, we will need to make another hole in it, for which we will need a simple awl. You will need to glue the nipple into it, which I talked about earlier. It will be used to supply air inside the chamber.

For correct installation the pacifier is well suited to the belt kit, which is indicated in the list necessary details. Next, unscrew the nipple and check how the air moves.

A DIY mini compressor is made according to the same principle, you will just need to take a smaller chamber, which will require a lower power pump. Such an installation will have lower productivity, but will have a certain compactness.

Peculiarities

After everything that was done earlier, you need to install the release valve on the nipple that was originally on the camera. It is necessary to relieve pressure if it rises too high. In order to check the performance of the device not only by direct use, it would not be superfluous to install an additional pressure gauge.

Otherwise, if you are painting, you will need to first do a test run, then look at the uniformity of the enamel or plain paint, and only then start working. This is not very convenient, and can be quite expensive, depending on the price of materials.

It is important to know that when checking the pressure level with a pressure gauge, its needle should not twitch. If this happens, you need to check the entire structure, as this is a sign that the air flow is not uniform.

In fact, the idea of homemade compressors and the manufacture of one does not require any superpowers. Naturally, you will need direct hands, basic skills in working with different instruments, and the main thing is the desire to do all this. If you need a compressor for professional needs, then it is better to turn to ready-made solutions.

There are many reviews that homemade compressors work more reliably and are more durable. It is important to understand that this depends primarily on who made this unit, and the materials that were used to create it are no less important.

If you want to work in your garage or barn as a hobby, and you have enough free time to do it - why not.

DIY compressor photos

Recently, compressors have gained popularity among tinkerers. They are made on the basis of almost any engine, calculating the power of the base unit depending on the number of consumers. For home workshops, do-it-yourself compressor units are in demand.
Refrigerator compressors often remain operational after the refrigerator itself breaks down or becomes obsolete. They are low-power, but unpretentious in operation. And many masters make quite decent ones from them. homemade installations. Let's see how you can do this yourself.

Parts and materials

Required parts:

11 kg propane tank;
1/2" coupling with internal thread and plug;
Metal plates, width – 3-4 cm, thickness – 2-4 mm;
Two wheels with mounting platform;
Refrigeration compressor from a refrigerator;
1/4 inch adapter;
Brass check valve connector;
Copper pipe connector ¼ inch – 2 pcs;
Equipment for adjusting compressor pressure;
Bolts, screws, nuts, fumlenta.

Tools:

Welding inverter;
Screwdriver or drill;
Metal cutters with titanium coating;
A turbine or drill with abrasive attachments;
Metal brush;
Roller for copper tubes;
Adjustable wrenches, pliers.
Assembling the compressor
Step one - preparing the receiver
We rinse the empty liquefied propane cylinder thoroughly with water. It is very important to remove all remaining explosive gas mixtures in this way.

We overlap the adapter by 1/4 inch into the end hole of the cylinder. We scald it on all sides by welding and seal it with a screw.

We place the receiver on wheels and supports. To do this, we take pieces of metal plates, bend them at an angle and weld them onto the body from the bottom. We weld wheels with a mounting platform to the corners. We mount a support bracket in the front part of the receiver.

Step two - install the compressor
On top of the receiver we place mounting frames for the compressor made of metal plates. We check their position with a bubble level and scald them. We seat the compressor on the clamping bolts through rubber shock-absorbing pads. U of this type The compressor will use only one outlet through which air is pumped into the receiver. The remaining two, which suck in air, will remain untouched.

Step three - attach the check valve and adapter to the equipment
We select a metal cutter of suitable diameter and use a screwdriver or drill to make a hole in the housing for the coupling. If there are protruding shapes on the coupling body, grind them down with a drill (for this you can use a regular electric sandpaper or a grinder with grinding disc).

Place the coupling in the hole and weld it around the circumference. Its internal thread must match the pitch and diameter of the landing thread on the check valve.

We use brass check valve for small compressors. We plug the pressure release outlet with a suitable bolt, since the control assembly already has a release valve.

To install a pressure switch or pressure switch with all the control equipment, we mount another 1/4-inch adapter. We make a hole for it in the center of the receiver, not far from the compressor.

We tighten the check valve with a 1/2-inch adapter.

We connect the compressor cylinder outlet and the check valve with a copper tube. For this special tool We flare the ends of the copper tubes and connect them with brass threaded adapters. We tighten the connection with adjustable wrenches.

Step four - install the control equipment
The assembly of control equipment consists of a pressure switch (pressostat) with a control sensor, a safety valve or pressure relief valve, an adapter-coupling with external thread and several taps and pressure gauges.

First of all, we install the pressure switch. It must be slightly raised to the level of the compressor. We use an extension coupling with an external thread and screw the relay through the sealing tape.

Through the adapter we install a pressure regulation sensor with pressure gauges. We complete the assembly with a pressure relief valve and two taps for the hose outlets.

Step five - connect the electrical
Using a screwdriver, we disassemble the housing of the pressure switch, opening access to the contacts. We connect the 3-core cable to the contact group, and distribute each of the wires according to the connection diagram (including grounding).

Similarly, we connect the power cable, equipped with a plug for a power outlet. Screw the relay cover back into place.

Step six – revision and test run
For carrying compressor unit We attach a special handle to the compressor frame. We make it from scraps of profile square and round pipe. We attach it to the clamping bolts and paint it in the color of the compressor.

We connect the installation to a 220 V network and check its functionality. According to the author, to obtain a pressure of 90 psi or 6 atm, this compressor needs 10 minutes. Using an adjusting sensor, the activation of the compressor after a pressure drop is also regulated from a certain indicator displayed on the pressure gauge. In his case, the author configured the installation so that the compressor would turn on again from 60 psi or 4 atm.

The last operation left is an oil change. This is an important part Maintenance such installations, because they do not have an inspection window. And without oil, such machines can work for only a short time.
We unscrew the drain bolt at the bottom of the compressor and drain the waste into a bottle. Turning the compressor on its side, fill in a little clean oil and screw the plug back on. Now everything is in order, you can use our compressor unit!

In some cases, to perform various works you can't get by around the house without air compressor. If you have sufficient skills, as well as some initial components and parts, you can make such a unit yourself.

When do you need a compressor for household chores?

First of all, it will be needed by owners of individual vehicles. Painting a car, cleaning the interior and engine from dirt and dust, bringing the tire pressure to the required value is just a small list of operations that a homemade compressor can perform. The scope of application of the unit will increase sharply if pneumatic tools appear on the farm. For example, in the countryside, their use in many situations turns out to be more profitable than electric ones: there is no connection to a stationary power line, and designs based on the use of pneumatics often turn out to be more reliable.

Before you start making a home air compressor, you should make an initial technical task, in which the following requirements are clarified:

which overpressure air will be required;
from what and how the drive will be produced;
what components can be used to assemble the device;
how long will the compressor work non-stop;
what should be the minimum acceptable energy consumption;
Are the quality indicators of the energy carrier critical: its humidity and temperature.

To perform most housework, 4...6 atm is enough, however, it should be noted that with prolonged use of the compressor, its moving parts heat up, which is why this characteristic Over time it can fall by 20...30%. Performance is determined only technical characteristics pneumatic tools. Consumption is usually minimal for drills, impact wrenches and dowels. mounting guns(up to 100...120 l/min). However, for an impact tool or grinding machines a flow rate of up to 350...400 l/min will be required. When performing external work (in particular, painting), more may be required. high values productivity, therefore it is necessary to provide a margin for this parameter of 20...30%. The same approach is necessary for assessing the power consumed by the unit.

Any compressor needs a receiver - a storage tank that maintains the air pressure required for stable operation tool limits. As the volume of the container increases, the functionality of the air compressor increases, although dimensions installations will increase. However, the volume cannot be less than 10 liters. It should be taken into account that for painting purposes the length of the pipelines (and, consequently, losses) will increase.

How to make a compressor, and in what order should the work be done?

Components of the future compressor

To make a compressor with your own hands, you will need:

Installation procedure

How to make a compressor? The following sequence of preparation and assembly of elements is recommended: inlet intake hose with pipe→pre-filter→final filter→rigid inlet tube to the compressor→compressor→oil change pipeline→output pipeline to the receiver→tee→receiver→RD relay with emergency safety valve →tee with pressure gauge→regulator with valve→combined outlet filter→hose with self-closing pneumatic socket.

On initial stage The compressor from the refrigerator needs to be prepared for installation. It is cleaned from the inside of dirt and impurities, painted, and the oil is drained (more than likely, this has not been done during the entire period of operation; however, there is no particular need for this for a refrigerator). The compressor already has a starting relay configured to its parameters, and it is not recommended to change it. The sealed hole at the bottom of the housing is designed to drain the oil. This hole is carefully opened (chip particles should not get inside), after which the old oil is removed using a syringe and the cavity is filled with fresh oil (any synthetic or semi-synthetic oil, the characteristics of which are almost constant, is suitable). It is necessary to fill in 30...40% more oil, taking into account the natural loss, for example, during continuous painting of large surfaces.

The next stage is preparing the air accumulator. The interior of the fire extinguisher body must be thoroughly cleaned using a rust converter. After this, a threaded hole is made in the lower part of the housing, which is plugged with a plug: it is necessary for periodic drainage of condensate. A tee is connected to the outlet hole. Possible problem– thread mismatch can be solved by re-cutting it. The opposite ends of the tee are connected safety valve(its parameters are selected taking into account needs) and a second tee, also equipped with a pressure gauge. The storage container must be painted.

The installation is completed by attaching the second tee of the oil-moisture separator filter to the outlet. This tee should be equipped with a manual valve and a resulting control pressure gauge. By connecting the outlet hose to the last one, the assembly process will be completed.

All that remains is to install all the assembled components on the frame. It is better to use aluminum corners or thick-sheet plywood for these purposes. It is recommended to install the compressor on top: this makes subsequent use of the unit easier. To avoid unnecessary noise and vibration, all components must be rigidly fixed to the frame, with the exception of the compressor itself: it must allow some vibrations. To do this, it is better not to dismantle the fasteners remaining on it, or, if they are missing, to install the compressor on spring compensators.

Adjustment and testing

The main test of a homemade compressor is to determine the possibility of effectively regulating the pressure that is created in assembled system. The easiest way to do this is to test paint a surface. In this case, the following is done sequentially:

Set the relay to 4…5 at.
Connect the compressor to the network.
The stability of the parameter is monitored using a pressure gauge. If the relay is operational, then if the pressure is exceeded, it will turn off the compressor; otherwise, open the relief valve and immediately turn off the unit.
Check the system for spontaneous bleeding of the energy carrier, for which you can use a regular soap solution.
When the pressure drops to a level below the minimum permissible, the relay should automatically turn on the compressor.
After painting any surface, it is necessary to check the quality of the paint applied to it - during an external inspection, no traces of moisture, foreign particles and dirt should be detected. If such defects do occur, you should additionally check the operation of the output filter - oil and water separator.

The operation of a self-assembled unit will be long-lasting and reliable if routine maintenance is carried out periodically. It comes down to replacing inlet filters, periodically purging all air ducts, and also changing the oil in the compressor.