Manufacturing of bindings. We make a window frame Blind sashes from rectangular bars

Making bindings

The bindings can be solid (in the form of a whole frame) and opening, with or without windows, and consist of only two sashes or two sashes and a transom.

Bindings are made from bars and slabs, often rectangular and less often square shape with selected folds (small quarters) for glass. The bars are connected to each other with eyes and spikes.

The bars are prepared like this. First, one side is planed, then with a thicknesser, marks are applied on the second and third sides and the fourth side is planed along them. After this, the second side is planed under the square and marks are made on it for planing the third side (Fig. 62).

Particularly strict requirements are placed on bindings, since even well-made bindings allow a lot of heat to escape from the room.

The edges of the bindings should fit as closely as possible to each other or to the quarters of the box. The tenon joints of the bars must also be tight. The nests for the hinges are cut out precisely so that the hinges fit tightly into them.

The folds of the bindings must be placed in the same plane so that the glass laid on them fits tightly to them. In this case, when glazing with single putty, there is no heat loss. When glazing with double putty, much less is required.

Blind bindings made of rectangular bars consist of an upper, lower, two side bars and two slabs (horizontal and vertical), which divide the binding into separate parts (Fig. 63). In nodes a and the willow bars are connected with tenons and lugs, and in node b - with a tenon and socket.

On the planed bars, marks are applied (Fig. 64) for tenons, eyes, sockets, folds, and the width of the cutting of the bars “on the miter” is determined in the places where they abut each other. Along the width of the bar, marks are applied using a square, along the length - using a thicknesser or comb - a piece of a bar with a cutout and filled with nails. It is customary to make eyelets in vertical bars, and spikes in horizontal bars.

Rice. 64. Making marks on the binding bars: a - marks; b - marking with a thicknesser; c - making marks with a comb; d - drawing marks along the square; 1 - risks for miter trimming; 2 - risks for filing tenons and eyes; 3 - risks for rebate sampling; 4 - pins; 5 - risk

The spikes and eyes are filed down according to the risks. A lot depends on the accuracy of the filing. For example, it is impossible to allow distortions or spikes that are thicker than the width of the eyes, as this can lead to splitting of the block. If the spikes are thinner than the eyes, the connection will be fragile.

When filing, the saw teeth should be near the notch, but the notch itself should not be affected. The saw should go from the mark to 74 of its thickness (approximately 0.1 mm). When filing tenons, the cutting line should go with outside, and when filing the eyes - from the inside (Fig. 65).

Having filed down the tenons and eyes on the sides of each tenon part, saw off the cheeks and hollow out unnecessary wood, removing chips no more than 5 mm thick. Then the nests, eyes, tenons are cleaned, folds are selected, and, if necessary, moldings. The width of the folds should correspond to the edge of the tenon and eye, and they themselves should be in the same plane and not require additional corrections (Fig. 66).

After selecting the folds, the width of the eyes and tenons becomes different, so they do not fit tightly together. To avoid this, the part of the wood protruding in the places of tenons and eyes is cut off “on a miter” at an angle of 45° (Fig. 67).

Rice. 67. Cutting the cheeks and trimming “on the mustache”: a - cutting the cheeks; b - miter trimming of the eye part; c - finished tenon part

If the spikes fit tightly into the eyes, they are cleaned a little with a chisel and chamfered. After assembly, the binding is checked for squareness with a square and a strip, applying them diagonally. The binding parts are marked, disassembled and reassembled, but with glue. Then the binding is checked with a square, secured in compression, holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm are drilled in the joints and dowels are hammered into them with glue. The bindings, removed from compression after a few hours, are dried for 2-3 days, then they are cleaned, the protruding pins are cut off, and the folds are adjusted, which must be strictly in the same plane.

On the outside of the lower beam of the frames or sashes, ebbs are installed to drain water from the walls. At the bottom of the ebb, select a teardrop groove, placing it 10 mm from the edge.

You can select a shallow groove in the block and install the ebb not with glue, but with thick oil paint, attaching it with screws. It is more durable and water does not penetrate through the gap.

Bindings from bars with chamfered (Fig. 68) are made in this sequence. On prepared bars rectangular shape cause risks for tenons, eyes, sockets, folds and chamfers. The tenons and eyes are sawed down and the seams are selected, the wood is selected from the tenons and eyes, the nests are hollowed out and only after that the grooves are chamfered or the grooves are selected. The remaining work is performed in the same sequence as when assembling blind bindings. Bindings with a window (Fig. 69, a) are made like other bindings, and only an additional block is installed for the window. For the porch of the window, quarters are needed. If the windows open into the room, the quarters can be made overhead by attaching the slats with nails or screws (Fig. 69,b). If you need a window that opens outward, the folds in the binding are deepened with a chisel to fit the size of the window and an additional block is placed (Fig. 69, c).

The vents have smooth porch, with a quarter or overlay (Fig. 69, d), reducing blowing. The quarters are planed, and the overlay is filled from individual slats. The window is knitted on single spikes, but better on double spikes, which are also used in horizontal bars. Window dimensions and general form it is shown in Figure 69, d.

The vents, opening in different directions, have same sizes, and in one direction (inward) in summer binding should be less than in winter binding.

Casement sashes (Fig. 70) consist of two sashes or two sashes and a transom. They can be with or without windows. Flashings are installed on the lower bars of the sashes and on the transom. During production Special attention pay attention to the narthex device (Fig. 71), the accuracy of which determines the degree of ventilation. Flashings are additionally attached to the vestibules. The dimensions of the valves should be 10-15 mm larger than those indicated in the drawing, and one valve should be wider by the same amount. This is necessary to obtain a rebate that has a gap of 2 mm in the middle and 1 mm at the edges.

After gluing and drying, the sashes and transom are cleaned, the porches are planed, and then the grooves for the ebb. At the ends of the sashes, the ebb tides are cut "on a miter" at an angle of 45°, in the vestibule - at an angle of 60°, at the transom - at a right angle.

Lattice frames (Fig. 72) are used for glazing terraces and other structures. Allows the use of small glass sizes. Bindings can be solid or folding, with or without windows. When assembling, the slabs are first connected, onto which the strapping bars are then placed.

Quite a lot of heat escapes from the room through window openings, so serious attention must be paid to the manufacture of frames and their glazing.

Bars are prepared from wood blanks the desired shape and size, planing them with a jointer. They can be smooth or with selected grooves. Knots and other defects are drilled out or cut out with a chisel, giving the holes a round or diamond shape and sealing them with glue inserts.

Corner joints in bindings are made with two tenons. The slabs with straps and the bars of the vents are made with one tenon. To strengthen corner ties, in addition to glue, dowels are used at the rate of one dowel per connection.

To make these connections and folds, marks are made on the bars with a thicknesser or comb and tenons and eyes are filed along these marks, selecting folds. If necessary, cut the wood “on the miter” at the nodes for a tight connection, having previously marked the cutting lines along the square.

External sashes with a width of more than 700 mm and a height of more than 1800 mm are often fastened with metal angles from the side of the interglazed space, and sometimes from the outside. For summer bindings, the angles are placed indoors.

The sizes of bars and slabs of bindings vary different sections, which depends on the size of the binding sashes. With a sash width of 700 and a height of 1200 mm, the side rails should have a cross-section of 44 x 65 mm, and with a width of 700-800 mm and a height of 1200-1800 mm - 54 x 65 mm.

The total width of the narthex of two bars with a cross-section of 54 x 61 mm should be 110 mm, for narthexes in windows with an impost - up to 140 mm, for casements with overlay - 150 mm. It is customary to make the middle strapping bars 4 mm wider than the width of the side bars, which makes it possible to reduce the width of the middle rebate. The slabs in the bindings are made the same thickness as the strapping bars; The minimum width of pine slabs is 25mm. In large-sized bindings, the width of the slabs can be more than 30mm. For the manufacture of regular sized windows, take bars 44mm wide and 34 and 44mm thick, for overlaid windows - 51mm wide.

The shape of the bars and slabs can be simple or profiled.

However, in all cases they must have a 1:10 bevel that goes from the glass to front side bindings, which is necessary to drain condensate from the glass.

In addition, so that the sashes are tightly covered and easily opened, bevels are also made in the outer side edges of the sashes and vents.

On the outer edges of the frames, transoms and windows, small quarters or folds are selected, into which the glass is then inserted. The size of these folds depends on the thickness of the strapping bars and slabs, as well as on whether the glass is coated with putty or closed with thin glazing beads wooden slats, smooth or grooved. The latter require wider folds. With a thickness of strapping bars of 54mm, the depth of the folds should be 14-15mm, and the width - 8-13mm, with a thickness of bars of 44mm, 13 and 10mm, respectively. Reducing the size of the folds is undesirable in order to avoid cold wind blowing through them. It is better to make the folds a little wider than narrower.

Blind binding

This blind binding is designed for three glasses (Fig. 44, a). It can be assembled from six rectangular bars of the same cross-section, although it is better to make the middle bars - the slabs - thinner.

Prepare two long and four short bars the right size(for example, Fig. 44, 6 shows four bars of the same size). The diagram for economical marking of bars is shown in Fig. 44, v. On each block you need to mark tenons, eyes, sockets and folds. At the ends of the long strapping bars, there are eyes, in the middle there are through or blind sockets for the spikes of the horizontal croaker, which has spikes at the ends, and in the middle there is a socket into which the spike of the vertical croaker will fit. The top bar has spikes at the ends, the bottom bar has lugs at the ends, and in the middle there are sockets for a vertical slab. Only spikes remain at the ends of the vertical croaker.

Secure the bars with markings in a workbench in a vertical position. Then use a fine-tooth saw to carefully cut down the tenons and lugs. This process was described in detail in the chapter "Making tenon joints".

Strict requirements are imposed on the accuracy of tenon joints. A slight misalignment of a tenon or eyelet will ruin the entire binding. A tenon that is thicker than the width of the socket or eye hole will split the block, and one that is thinner than necessary will create a weak connection. The corner connections of the bars, tenons and eyes must be made accurately, without additional cleaning with a chisel.

Having filed down the spikes and eyes, proceed to their further processing. Cut off the cheeks of the tenon parts and hollow out the wood in the tenons and lugs or sockets. Hammer exactly according to the markings and always on both sides, followed by trimming and cleaning individual rough spots. After removing all the roughness, use a folding tool or a zenzubel to select the folds, in in this case wide and deep (Fig. 44, d).

After selecting the folds, the width of the tenons and eyes on the binding bars remains different, which complicates their assembly or connection and requires trimming the cheeks. Therefore, it is better to make the spikes and eyes the same width by cutting off the protruding parts (Fig. 44, e). In order for the bars and slabs to fit tightly against each other, the protruding part of the bar must be cut off “on a mustache”. To do this, place a sharp chisel with the chamfer outward to the mark at an angle of 45° and hit it with a mallet (Fig. 44, e).

The folds are made with a width equal to one or two tenon thicknesses. In this case, the folds run along the edge of the tenon, which facilitates the connection of parts and does not require additional sawing and trimming.

Having prepared all the bars, proceed to assembling the binding dry. To make the tenons easier to fit into the eyes and not pinned, remove small chamfers with a chisel. Spikes that fit into the eyes tightly, with great effort, must be cleaned with a chisel. Make the nests in the bars equal to the width and thickness of the tenon.

All parts in the assemblies must be tightly adjacent to each other. However, when sawing, the edge still remains torn, and it has to be trimmed with a chisel. Leaks also occur in places where the cheeks of the tenon part adjoin the eye, because the shoulders do not always have straight line I started drinking. Therefore, they put a square on them and use a chisel to cut off part of the wood with a slant inward (undercut).

For a dry-assembled binding, be sure to check the accuracy of the joining of the parts and the squareness - with a square in the corners, with a strip diagonally. Please also ensure that the binding folds are at the same level or in the same plane. Then the glass fits more tightly.

After checking the binding, mark all the parts, disassemble and start gluing. First, assemble bars 3,4,5, insert them into bar 1, then insert bar 2 and put strap 1 on them (Fig. 44, g). The spikes and eyes must be coated with glue directly during assembly.

Place the assembled binding in the wedges, check with a square and a lath for squareness and compress with wedges at the knots until they fit tightly together. Then drill holes with a diameter of 10-12 mm in the corners (Fig. 44, h) and hammer dowels into them with glue. After this, the binding can be removed from the binding and left to dry for 2-3 days, and then cleaned by cutting off the protruding parts of the tenons and dowels with a chisel.

Having cleaned the binding, proceed to installing the casting on the lower and middle bars of the outer binding. The shape of the tide can be different, but a semicircular or semicircular teardrop groove is always placed under them. rectangular section, placing it at a distance of 10mm from the outer edge. The length of the ebb is usually equal to the width of the binding (Fig. 44, i).

To fasten the ebb in the lower beam of the binding, at a distance of 10 mm from the fold, select a groove with a depth of up to 10 mm. The width of the groove should be equal to the thickness of the ebb, for which a ridge is left in the ebb, equal to length bottom block or groove made. Saw grooves in corner connections not recommended to avoid loosening them. If sometimes grooves are cut into the bars, then they are no more than 3 mm deep. The ebbs are installed with waterproof glue and additionally secured with nails, which are driven into the nodal joints and 1-2 in the middle of the ebb. The ends of the ebb in non-opening frames and transoms are left straight or cut off at an angle of 45° in the case of opening frames, and at 60° in the vestibule.

Binding with window

The vents can be arranged in any binding, regardless of the profile of the bars and slabs used. The window opening into the room in a winter frame must be larger than in a summer one, otherwise you won’t be able to open it.

When making a binding with a window, an additional socket of the appropriate shape is attached to the above-described binding. It is placed between the strapping block and the vertical slab (Fig. 45, a). The slab is made with a quarter for the window and a fold for the glass (Fig. 45, b).

To arrange a quarter for a window opening into the room (Fig. 45, c), overhead bars can be nailed or screwed to the previously selected folds. If the windows open outward, then choose deeper quarters from the bars and slabs, increasing the existing folds with a chisel. In this case, the overhead bars are not nailed down (Fig. 45, d).

The porch of the vents can be smooth (Fig. 45, d), as well as with a quarter or overlay, which are arranged to reduce airflow. The quarters and overlays are laid out along the bars of the window after its manufacture. The fusion can be arranged from the side where the hinges are attached (Fig. 45, e). The window is often made with a single spike, but it is also possible with a double one. The spikes are made on horizontal (longer) bars, and the eyes are made on vertical bars.

Casement bindings

Such bindings (Fig. 45, g) are made with or without a window. The sizes of the sashes and transoms can be very different. The figure shows a binding with moldings and two casts. One flashing is placed at the bottom of the transom, the other at the bottom of the sashes with the ends cut into a cone. Sash bindings are made in the following sequence. Plane the strapping bars under the square. Mark the places of tenons, eyes, folds and grooves. The tenons and eyes are filed down, the folds and grooves are selected, the wood from the tenons and eyes is selected, that is, the strapping bars are prepared. In the lower bar of the transom and the lower bars of the sashes, grooves for ebb tides are selected. Then the bars are assembled dry and all inaccuracies are corrected, checking diagonally and with a square.

The sashes are made 10-15mm higher than shown in the drawing. In addition, one sash is made 10-15mm wider. These allowances are needed to select the quarters of the vestibules between the sashes, as well as the sashes and the transom. Often, for this purpose, the height of the transom is increased. The narthexes are made with a zenzubel, securing the sash or transom in the side box of the workbench.

A gap of 2 mm is left at the vestibules for a layer of paint, otherwise the sashes will not close well after painting. The ends of the ebb tide at the transom are left at right angles; at the ends of the valves they are cut “on a miter” at an angle of 45°, and in the vestibule - at an angle of 60°.

The transom and sashes are assembled dry, checked, then disassembled, glued, placed in wedges, checked diagonally with a lath, and in the corners with a square. Then they compress, drill holes in the corners and place dowels on the glue. After drying, the castings are cleaned and installed on the glue.

The simplest window block

Real window profiles have very complex shape. They must be made in compliance exact dimensions, otherwise the window will not be airtight. Even ebb tides are quite difficult to manufacture. But you can make a simpler version of the window. It, of course, will not be as airtight as the factory one, but can be successfully used on balconies, in country houses, in attics, verandas, etc.

The described window consists of a box fixed in the opening, to which a frame with glass is attached. To make the box, you should choose boards with a section of 50 x 150mm. For the frame, you can use a beam with a section of 50 x 50mm. Linear dimensions starting materials selected based on the size of the window opening.

The box is made from well-dried planed boards. In the board you need to select a quarter 130mm long and 15mm deep so that a ridge is formed at the end. This ridge is necessary to seal the window. After this, the board must be marked in accordance with the dimensions of the future box and cut into four parts. The parts are fastened together using ordinary straight tenons with fixation dowels.

Assembly is carried out as described above. IN finished product metal can be attached to the ends of the box window corners to give the structure additional strength.

The second stage will be assembling the sash with glass. It is made in the same way as a box, and the use of dowels and corners is mandatory so that the sash does not warp when open. The dimensions of the sash should be such that there is a gap of 1-2mm between it and the frame.

At the bottom of the trim bar, a matching groove was selected for the window frame, 20 mm wide and 15 mm high. There can be two or one upper grooves, depending on the number of glasses. Their width is 14mm, and their height is 10mm with the dimensions of the bar being 50 x 50mm. In this case, the glazing beads should be 10x10mm in size; glass thickness 4mm.

For the manufacture of profiles, a chisel, a mold, an electric planer or manual frezer. The profile is sawn into pieces. Then they are made tenon joints with a tenon length of at least 3 cm, the binding is assembled and glued. The glass is secured using glazing beads. After this, all that remains is to attach the hinges and other fittings and hang the sash. Finally, you can stick a seal around the perimeter of the rebate.

- This internal organization a blind frame, or opening sash, that divides the window into separate parts. Sometimes this name refers to the entire window structure, including frames, sashes, mullions and decorative strips. The height and width of the device mainly depends on the height of the room itself, as well as required quantity Sveta.

Today, two series of bindings for residential premises are produced. These are separate and paired structures, the thickness of the bars is 44 mm.

Window sash performs the following functions:

1. Ensuring certain indoor climate conditions.
2. Thermal insulation and air insulation.
3. Building lighting.
4. Decorative design.

Application area and materials

Lattice separating devices are used in roofing and terrace work. They are manufactured both in a folding form and with a built-in window.

Thanks to this device, it is possible to install small-sized double-glazed windows. IN civil engineering Mostly paired bindings are used. They consist of internal and external elements fastened together with tie screws.

In the manufacture of window frames, only the highest quality and durable dry bars are used. They can have a square or rectangular shape. The bars themselves are made from spruce, pine, larch and cedar. Through wooden blocks a lot of heat can escape from the room, so they must pass special treatment and have a flat surface.

Device

Main components:

1. Box.
2. Right vertical strapping bar.
3. Left vertical strapping bar.
4. Door with window.
5. Horizontal slab under the window.
6. Window.
7. Transom.
8. A loop.
9. The door has no window.
10. Horizontal impost.
11. Vertical impost.

A window consists of the following parts: a window sill, a movable part and a fixed part. The moving component includes the binding together with glass in its design. The fixed part includes window box, or frame.

In turn, the window frame can be common or separate. As for the window sill, it serves as a ceiling for the lower part of the window opening. With the help of a window sill board, the window inside the room takes on an aesthetic appearance.

The presence of a separating device in a window depends on the type of glazing. For example, a paired window has double glazing; accordingly, it will have two dividers (internal and external).

There are several types of paired window designs. These are windows with double and split devices that can open both outward and inward. The window separating element must meet many requirements. To prevent heat from escaping from the room, the vestibules of the structures must be tightly connected to each other.

Types and designs

According to their purpose, window frames can be:

Casements

There are simple casement structures with a window. They are used in modern residential and public spaces.

Deaf

They are used in low-rise residential buildings and in utility rooms. They consist of the following elements: a common strapping frame and slabs. The latter divide the frame clearance into individual elements square shape. The strength of the binding depends on the number of slabs in it.

Lifting

Such window designs do not take up additional space when opening, since all manipulations take place in the same plane. Thanks to their design, the doors move in a purely vertical direction. Lifting windows are mainly used in classic style decoration.

There are many various designs window frames. First of all, their design depends on architectural solutions developers and the taste of the owners themselves.

In some designs, glass is fastened using special beads. Glass can be strengthened using rubber gaskets and covered glazing beads. Window frames can be steel or wood.

Steel structures are made from bent profiles, rolling method. The glass is fastened using clamps. All reinforcing elements must be treated with lubricant.

The structures themselves are reinforced with bolts. Wooden bindings can be either single or double. They consist of a box with blind doors.

Installation and repair

The assembly of window frames is carried out manually.

Installation of bindings occurs in two stages:

1. Pre-assembly. It consists of adjusting the tenons, trimming the corners and removing various braces. Initially, slabs and mullions are assembled, after which they are connected to a longitudinal beam. Next, a second block is hammered onto the tenons. In progress pre-assembly, the binding structure does not need to be clamped in clamps.
2. Final assembly. The finished device is crimped with glue and, after checking for squareness, fixed at the corners. After the glue has dried, it is necessary to remove all protruding areas of the dowels with a chisel. Next, the sashes are clamped with the clamping screw of the workbench. The sanded structure and sashes are attached to the outer sash, sanding down the outer edges.

The work of assembling the box takes place on a workbench, or a frame. Initially, it is necessary to assemble the inner frame, and then the outer one. The connecting surfaces of both frames need to be oiled and after that they can be nailed together, pressing them against each other.

Over time, the components of the separating device may dry out, rot, and succumb to deformation. In this case, there is a need to repair the window frame.

Repair

Elements:

1. Installing a new gasket.
2. Replacing the sash trim bar.
3. Replacing glazing beads..
4. Replacement tide.
5. Attachment of the top bar of the window.
6. Sticking the slats after drying the window trim.
7. Replacement of hinges and window handles.
8. Strengthening the window frame with angles.

During the repair process, it is necessary to remove the structure from the sash hinges and pull out the glass. All rotten ends are cut off until strong wood appears. All old drain parts are replaced with new ones. In the old bars it is necessary to make holes for the eyes. After this, all parts need to be fastened with waterproof glue, followed by installation of the dowel.

When the binding dries, you need to remove its distortion. If a gap has formed on the ledge of the device, then all the hinges of the sash must be removed and a strip should be glued onto them. In turn, the bar should be thicker than the gap itself, about 2 mm. After dismantling, the hinges need to be hung back and the structure attached in place.

If boxes need repairs, then it is first necessary to make blanks of a certain length. Then, the rotten areas are sawed off using a hacksaw and cleared of various debris.

Places freed from boxes should be treated with an antiseptic. When using new wood, it also needs to be coated with an antiseptic and dried thoroughly.

New plots are connected to old ones, half a tree. The ends of the inserted vertical bars should be adjacent to the horizontal ends on a layer of putty. The putty, in turn, protects the joints from moisture that can form when water drains from the windows.

Coloring

After dismantling separate structures, they always need painting. Initially, all surfaces to be painted must be wiped with a damp cloth and dried.

When painting corners, you first need to apply the paint with the end of the brush, and then you should shade it over the bars. To prevent stained windows, paper is glued along the bars with special glue.

You can also use a polymer adhesive film.

The painting process takes place in several steps:

1. Applying paint to surfaces facing the inside of the building. Such manipulations should be carried out with the windows closed.
2. Painting joint surfaces.
3. Painting of external surfaces.

Window sashes in kitchen areas are most often painted in White color. To obtain good result, painting needs to be done several times. The interval between the first and subsequent staining should be two days. At correct application paint, the surface should be smooth, shiny and without smudges.

Painting of window dividing structures should be done with a flute (brush with different widths). When applying the first layer, the paint must be rubbed across the grain. At the same time, you need to ensure that the paint is applied evenly, otherwise the windows will not open well.

The covers can be a whole frame, divided by slabs into several parts (glasses), of two sashes or two sashes and a transom. Frames and sashes can be with or without windows. Sometimes the windows are replaced by an opening transom. Many people prefer to make frames that open.

Wood for making bindings must be dry, from coniferous species. Very durable bindings are made of oak wood, but it is very difficult to process.

Bindings consist of bars and slabs, most often rectangular in shape and less often square with selected folds (quarters) of small size

for glass. The bars and slabs are connected to each other using spikes and eyes or spikes and sockets.

The bars are prepared like this. First, one side of the block is planed, then the marks are made using a thicknesser ( fine lines) on the second and third sides, and the fourth side is planed along them. After this, the second side is planed under the square and marks are made on it for planing the third side (Fig. 3).

Blind bindings made of rectangular bars

They consist of an upper, lower and two vertical bars and two slabs (horizontal and vertical), which divide the binding into separate parts or glass (Fig. 4). In nodes 1 and 3, the bars are connected using double tenons and eyes, and in node 2 with a tenon and socket. To do this, marks are first made on the planed bars using a thicknesser or comb for tenons, eyes, sockets, folds, and the width of the cutting of the bars at the miter joints is determined. Along the width of the bar, marks are applied using a square. It is customary to make eyelets on vertical bars, and spikes on horizontal bars (Fig. 5).

According to the risks, the wood for tenons and lugs is sawn through. Much depends on the accuracy of the filing: distortions and thicker tenons than the width of the eyes are possible, which can lead to splitting of the bars. If the tenons are thinner than the eye hole, the connection will be weak. When filing down tenons and eyes, you must adhere to following rules: The saw should go near the risk, but the risk itself should not be touched. Therefore, it is customary to guide the saw, i.e., its teeth, when filing, near the mark at a distance of approximately 0.1 mm from it. When filing tenons, the cutting line should go from the outside of the tenon, and when filing lugs, from the inside (Fig. 6). Having filed down the tenons and eyes on the sides of each tenon part, saw off the cheeks and hollow out unnecessary wood between the tenons, removing chips no more than 5 mm thick. The cheeks at the eyes are not cut down, but wood is selected in two cuts, that is, between the outer and middle cuts. Then the nests, eyes and tenons are cleaned, the folds are selected, and, if necessary, the moldings. The width of the folds should correspond to the edge of the tenon and eye, and they themselves should be in the same plane and not require additional corrections (Fig. 7).

After selecting the folds, the width of the eyes and tenons becomes different, and they do not fit tightly together. To avoid this, the part of the wood protruding in the places of the tenons and eyes is cut off “on a miter” at an angle of 45 o (Fig. 8).

If the spikes fit tightly into the eyes, they are cleaned a little with a chisel and chamfered. After assembly, the binding is checked for squareness using a square and a strip, applying it diagonally.

After checking the binding parts, they are marked, disassembled and reassembled, but with glue. Then the binding is checked with a square, secured in compression, holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm are drilled in the joints, places where the tenons and eyes are located, and dowels are hammered into them with glue.

The bindings, taken out after a few hours, are dried for two or three days, then the protruding dowels are cut off and cleaned. The folds must be strictly in the same plane. If this is not the case, then they have to be cleaned with a sharp chisel.

On the outside of the lower beam of the frames or sashes, ebbs (protruding bars) are installed to drain water from the walls. At the bottom of the ebb, select a groove - a teardrop, placing it 10 mm from the edge. The ebb tide is placed not on glue (it will quickly collapse from water), but on oil paint by attaching it with screws or gluing epoxy glue. This is more durable, and through the gap between the ebb and the binding bar, rain or snow water flowing from the windows will not get onto the frame and walls.

First, rectangular bars are planed, marks are made for tenons, eyes, sockets, folds and chamfers. The tenons and eyes are sawed down and the folds are taken out, the wood from the tenons and eyes is taken out, the nests are hollowed out and only after that they are chamfered or the grooves are taken (Fig. 9). The remaining work is performed in the same sequence as when assembling blind bindings.

Bindings with a window (Fig. 10) are usually made, and only for the window, quarters are selected in the bars and an additional bar is installed. If the windows open into the room, the quarters can be made overhead by attaching the slats with nails or screws. If you need a window that opens outward, the folds in the binding are deepened with a chisel to the size of the window and an additional block is placed.

The vents have a smooth rebate with a quarter or overlay, which reduces airflow. The quarters are planed, and the overlay is filled from individual slats. The window is knitted on single spikes, which are also arranged in horizontal bars.

The windows that open in different directions have the same dimensions, and those that open in one direction (inward) in a summer binding should be smaller than in a winter one.

Casement bindings

They consist of two sashes or two sashes and a transom. They can be with or without windows. Flashings are installed on the lower bars of the sashes and on the transom. In such bindings, special attention should be paid to the design of the rebate, the accuracy of which determines the degree of ventilation (Fig. 11). Flashings are additionally attached to the vestibules. To obtain a rebate, the sashes are made 10-15 mm larger than the dimensions between the quarters in the box. One sash is made wider by the same amount. This is necessary to obtain a rebate, which has a gap of 2 mm in the middle and 1 mm at the edges (given per layer of paint). At the ends of the sashes, the ebb tides are cut at an angle of 45 o, in the vestibule - at an angle of 60 o, at the transom - at a right angle.

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