How to cover a wooden house with bricks and insulate brick walls from the outside and inside. The procedure for insulating a wooden house and lining it with bricks Options for insulating a wooden house lined with brick from the outside

One of the most common myths in construction is related to natural warmth. wooden houses. In fact, the energy-saving properties of wood, as a rule, are not enough, so houses made of timber are insulated, using one of the best ways insulation protection - brick lining.

Why does a wooden house need brick walls?

The main advertising ploy of companies building houses from timber is the postulate about “incredibly warm houses, in which our ancestors lived for centuries.” At the same time, no one mentions that such a house will be warm enough only with the constant operation of a Russian stove or other heating system of commensurate power. The heating technology of a wooden structure of this type does not stand up to any criticism either according to SanPiN or SNIP standards, while most of the shortcomings are quite obvious. For example, in a house made of even factory-made timber, it is impossible to completely seal the inter-crown seals, the only exception being laminated lumber. And if the house is completely free from blowing, then even the maximum possible thickness of the timber walls will not be enough to withstand the coldest five-day period in most regions beyond latitude 60° and close to it.

But the need for insulation is not the only drawback of houses made of timber. Wood needs constant care, without which the surface of the walls will become extremely unpresentable over time. Due to the mandatory use of impregnations and paint coatings, another myth about wooden houses disappears - their ability to self-regulate the humidity of the internal atmosphere. And even in the case of systematic maintenance of the building, it will greatly lose its aesthetics due to sunlight, wind and rainwater; deep restoration of the wood will have to be carried out every 7-10 years.

Brick lining is just one of the finishing methods that ensures the safety of the thermal protection belt. Often the choice in favor of this technology is made only because the view brick building impresses the owner more than others, or such cladding is required for reasons fire safety. Otherwise, brick lining does not provide any significant benefits: it is more expensive, more difficult to install than many other coatings, and requires a major preparatory base. But the option is interesting at least for its originality: the outside looks like a stone castle, the inside is natural, alive, and most importantly - warm wooden house.

Building design requirements

Brick cladding is one of the heaviest types of facade finishing. Moreover, even part of its mass cannot be transferred to a wooden house, but not due to excess permissible loads for a log house, but because the outer side of the wooden wall must remain ventilated. Thus, the building requires a sufficiently wide plinth projection to accommodate the cladding and, if necessary, thermal insulation, as well as the possibility of installing flexible connections.

As for the protrusion of the foundation, it must have a width of at least 110 mm, provided that facing bricks with minimum thickness 65 mm and ensuring a minimum permissible non-ventilated gap of 40 mm. The reinforcing frame must be positioned in such a way that the outer rods are located with protective layer 50-60 mm. It is allowed to install an L-shaped foundation with a vertical dimension of the canopy of at least 250 mm. If the requirements for the foundation were not provided for during the construction of the house, an opening is performed outer wall foundations with a trench around the perimeter, installation of a cushion, installation of formwork and reinforcement to a width of at least 150 mm and a depth of 500 mm. The reinforcement is reinforced with a mesh of 10 mm ribbed rods with a cell size of 200x200 mm. If there is no possibility of a rigid connection to the foundation of the house, you can cast standalone tape a width of 300 mm and a depth of at least 600 mm, while the reinforcement is performed with a rectangular frame made of 12 mm class II reinforcement.

The requirement for the implementation of flexible connections lies in the preparation of the wall surface. You should get rid of the old exterior wall decoration. In a situation where the house has already been in use for more than 10 years outdoors, removal is recommended paint coating, re-impregnation with a bioprotective agent and application of coating waterproofing. Additionally, we note the importance of waterproofing between the foundation and the cladding. For these purposes it is convenient to use aerated concrete blocks, thereby simulating a high base stone buildings and providing additional protection decorative crown.

Selection of materials

The brick lining of the house is remarkable, first of all, because it is a box in which another box is placed - the load-bearing frame of the building. For this reason, even if they are on different fairly stable foundations, the frame and the finishing will get along well with each other. In addition, the amount of indentation brick cladding is practically unlimited, and accordingly the quality of insulation can be ensured among the highest.

Of course, getting the full benefit from the brick lining of a house is only possible if it is arranged correctly, which largely depends on the materials chosen:

1. The foundation is the basis for the cladding; the rigidity and strength of the entire façade finish depends on it. Concrete with reduced water absorption should be used, that is, grade W6 or higher.
2. When installing waterproofing with a raised base, aerated concrete should be used; unlike cheaper foam concrete, it has extremely low water absorption and a tendency to capillary suction. If the insulation is made using roll materials, it is better to choose a film or membrane.
3. The choice of brick is completely free, it is only important that the predicted weight of the cladding matches bearing capacity foundation. Typically, 88 mm facing bricks are used; it is also possible to use porous ceramics and decorative blocks. In any case, the material should be hollow to reduce weight and improve heat-saving properties.
4. For facing masonry An ordinary mortar with a lime-cement binder of a strength grade of 200 or higher will do. It is prepared from a mixture of Portland cement M400 with fluff in equal proportions, using three times as much sifted sand as a filler. It would not be superfluous to use frost-resistant additives and superplasticizers.
5. The masonry must be reinforced using the belt method, best material for this purpose - hot-rolled steel wire 4-5 mm. You will also need plaster mesh for flexible connection of masonry to the frame. If the cladding is made of PCB, each seam is covered with fiberglass facade mesh to avoid spillage of the solution in the cavity.

Nuances of insulation and protective insulation

The list of materials should also have included glassine, which is used to wrap the log house before laying the masonry. However, this issue is worth separate consideration, because it relates rather to the field of thermal engineering.

Such a structure as a log house in a brick shell has its own specific characteristics of heat transfer and moisture accumulation. It is necessary to protect the tree from water accumulation by all means, otherwise its durability will be reduced significantly. The main source of moisture is air coming from the building through the cracks between the crowns. Glassine traps this air, but condensation does not fall out, because all surfaces are at a fairly high temperature. At the same time, the wood’s ability to independently regulate humidity is maintained, the possibility of moist warm air getting into the insulation or vent is eliminated, and blow-through of the walls is guaranteed to be eliminated. The most important condition- fasten with glue and only to the central part of the beam, leaving small folds between the crowns so that the vapor barrier can “play” as the wood shrinks.

You can insulate a house made of timber using any material, taking into account some shortcomings. So, when using mineral wool, you need to protect the insulation from rodents by carefully sealing all junctions, and also cover the outside of the material with a windproof membrane. You can also use extruded polystyrene foam boards, foam chips or any other bulk filler that is not subject to shrinkage. It is extremely important to pre-calculate the wall pie in a thermal conductivity and moisture accumulation calculator in order to prevent the dew point from shifting to the area where moist warm air may be located.

Order calculation

The good thing about brick lining is that by just slightly adjusting the width of the gap, you can greatly reduce the number of additional regular elements or almost completely avoid their production. To do this, you should determine the order of laying in advance, knowing the format of the brick used. This is done for each wall separately using the simplest technique. As an example, we can take the most complex element of the facade - the section of the wall between the outer and inner corners. Let's assume that the length of the log house wall in this place is 570 cm, and the height to the soffit is 420 cm. In this case, the foundation under the log house has a protrusion of at least 110 mm.

If clinker bricks of the 250x90x65 mm format are chosen for cladding, then to lay the starting row without trimming the stones you will need 22 whole elements with a seam thickness of 8 mm. The most attentive will notice that as a result, the length of the row is 32 mm less than required, which can be compensated by increasing the gap by 16 mm on one side and reducing it by the same value on the other. In the second row, dressing is performed, the pokes of the adjacent walls are taken from the total length of the row 196 mm, taking into account the seams. It will not be possible to lay out this row with whole stones, and the addition will be too small. In this case, you can make the thickness of the vertical seams in even rows 11 mm, coming out almost exactly in right size. If the length of the row turns out to be a little longer than necessary, you don’t have to trim the extension, just lay the brick with a spoon protrusion inside the gap.

Also knowing that the row height is 75 mm taking into account the seam, you can determine the number of rows of cladding, which in our case will be exactly 56 rows. If this value were not accurate, the discrepancy could be compensated for using aerated concrete blocks. They are easy to cut into custom size, slightly raise the base and bring out the final row exactly close to the soffit. By calculating all sections of the wall in this way, you can get the number of bricks in pieces, and by adding 4-5% for defects and damage, you can determine the final volume of the order.

Execution of façade cladding

It is advisable to lay the starting row of solid stones on a waterproofing substrate of 3-4 layers of roofing material or 1-2 layers of blind membrane insulation. The first row sets the dimensions and configuration of the entire cladding, so it should be aligned with special care and given sufficient time for grasping.

The laying of all other rows should begin from the corners and be aligned along the mooring cord. If, according to the layout diagram, there are extensions, they are placed in the central part of the row in a random location in the areas between two outer corners or are shifted close to the inner one.

When laying the cladding, several points need to be taken into account. The first and most important thing is to leave gaps for limited air circulation in that row, at the height of which the formation of a snow cap is guaranteed to be excluded. The holes need to be protected from rodents and debris; the neatest way to do this is to cut grooves in the brick with a grinder and insert small pieces of expanded metal mesh into them.

We must not forget about the reinforcement, which is performed in every 4th or 5th row. For this, 2 pieces of wire are used, the length of which is 20-25 cm less than the wall section. The wire is recessed into the seam and the corners are tied with bent anchors. The lining is also attached to the beam with flexible connections, which are well suited for pieces of small plaster. steel mesh 15-20 cm wide.

They need to be bent at a right angle, nailed to the central part of the beam with one side, and walled up in the joint solution with the other. This assumes that the installation of insulation and the construction of brickwork are carried out in parallel, which means that the work should be planned for a sufficiently long warm and dry period.

Wood is a traditional building material from which residential buildings are built, in which people feel most comfortable. But no matter what wonderful properties: absorber-regulator of harmful substances and excess moisture– no matter what wood has, it is not a sufficient heat insulator. With a small thickness of enclosing structures, additional thermal insulation increases the coefficient of thermal resistance of the materials from which the walls of the building are constructed, which reduces heat loss, and therefore helps save energy resources.
Insulation outer wall from the facade from the point of view of maintaining normal temperature and humidity conditions in the premises of the house, it is the best option. In addition, since we are talking about wood - a relatively moisture-intensive material that is susceptible to rotting, fungus and other diseases caused by moisture, then from this point of view the scheme is considered the most appropriate external insulation followed by a protective and decorative screen - façade cladding. However, if the facades are already finished with facing brickwork, then you will have to insulate the premises from the inside.
Insulation of house walls from the inside has a number of disadvantages. Firstly, it creates the effect of a thermos with all that it implies, literally and figuratively words, from this consequences. Secondly, internal effective area premises. Thirdly, the heat-cold interface point in the thickness of the wall shifts inward, while the dew point is higher and closer to the actual air temperature in the premises of the house. In addition, fourthly, such a wall accumulates heat to a lesser extent, so the house warms up faster, but also cools down faster, for example, after the furnace is fired.
The thickness of the insulation layer depends on the thickness and material of the walls, the region of residence, and the required temperature in the premises. So for home permanent residence located in St. Petersburg or in the region, with walls made of timber 100-150 mm thick, the thickness of effective thermal insulation of the enclosing structures, so as not to heat the street and save energy resources, is 45-75 mm.
Unfortunately, the message does not indicate how thick the wall is timber house. Table 1 shows the results of calculating the thickness of the thermal insulation layer in the structure of the outer wall of a residential building made of 100 mm thick timber and 125 mm thick facing brickwork for insulation various materials. In the calculation it was assumed that interior decoration walls - cladding with eurolining 11 mm thick, while the cladding is made leaving an air gap between it and the vapor barrier layer of 30 mm.
Table 1.

	Name of insulation		Wall thickness, mm
			insulation	timber	brick	air gap	eurolining
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

Table 2 shows the results of calculating the thickness of the thermal insulation layer in the structure of the outer wall of a residential building made of 150 mm thick timber.
Table 2.

	Name of insulation		Wall thickness, mm
			insulation	timber	brick	air gap	eurolining
1.	Plates based on basalt wool “Rockwool LAIT BATTS”
2.	Plates based on glass fiber "URSA P-20"
3.	Polystyrene foam boards “URSA XPS N - III – I”
4.	Polystyrene foam boards PSB-S 25
5.	Extruded polystyrene foam "EXTRAPEN 35"
6.	Extruded polystyrene foam "PENOPLEX 35"

Notes. 1. The calculation was carried out provided that:

• city ​​– St. Petersburg;


• estimated indoor air temperature +20ºC.

2. This calculation was performed using an engineering calculation method based on SNiP 23-02-2003, SP 23-101-2004, SNiP 23-01-99* (“energy-saving approach”). The calculated thermal conductivity coefficient of the insulation used in the calculation is taken for normal conditions at a temperature of +25ºC.
3. This calculation is advisory in nature. An official calculation can be made by an organization licensed to design building structures.
When located thermal insulation layer on the inside the enclosing structure, it is necessary to approach the choice of insulation material very carefully. First of all, you need to pay attention to the environmental friendliness of the insulation and its flammability. While various polystyrene foam insulation materials are normally harmless to human health, when burned they can release toxic substances. It is best to use heat-insulating board materials on a non-flammable basis to insulate the walls from the inside of the house, for example “URSA P-20”, “Rockwool LAIT BATTS” or the like, which will last for decades.
First of all, when wall insulation device it is necessary to mount a frame from metal profile or wooden blocks measuring approximately 50x50mm. If the thickness of the thermal insulation layer is more than 50 mm, then first horizontal frame elements are fixed to the wall, between which insulation boards are placed at random. Typically, thermal insulation with a width of 600 mm is used for insulation, so the distance between the horizontal frame elements should be 10-20 mm less than the width of the insulation boards. Then the vertical posts of the frame are mounted, and the internal space of the frame is also filled thermal insulation boards. At the same time, neither films nor roll materials for various purposes They are not pre-fixed to the walls.
So that the mineral wool insulation does not lose its thermal insulation properties When moisture has accumulated and has not “deteriorated” over time, it is necessary to ensure its protection from the penetration of moisture vapor from the room. For this purpose, vapor barrier films are used, which are represented in the country’s construction market in a wide range of quality and price. Vapor barrier material On the frame, as a rule, they are placed with horizontal stripes, sealing the joints of the panels with waterproof tape, and pre-fixed with a stapler. Subsequently, the vapor barrier is nailed onto vertical racks frame with counter slats, the thickness of which will provide the necessary air gap of 20-30 mm between the film and internal lining walls This gap is necessary so that moisture vapor trapped behind the cladding is ventilated outside.
Then they cover the walls along the frame with any piece or sheet materials. building materials, for example, eurolining or plasterboard sheets.
It should be noted that before constructing the frame and securing the insulation, all wooden structures must be treated with fire retardant and antiseptic compounds or some one combined agent to protect wood. Processing of wooden structures is carried out to obtain fire-resistant wood, in accordance with the requirements of GOST 16363-98 and to protect wooden structures from exposure various types biodestroyers: wood-damaging insects, mold, rot, fungus, as well as against the appearance of blue stains and blackening.
In conclusion, I would like to note once again that when insulation of external walls from the inside, the effect of a thermos is created and in order for moist air to escape outside the building, it is necessary to equip some kind of ventilation system or ventilate the premises of the house more often by opening window vents or transoms.

Added: 06/06/2012 18:47

Discussion of the issue on the forum:

Please tell me the technology for insulating a country house from the inside. I bought a house made of timber, the outside is lined with hollow bricks, and the inside walls are lined with clapboard. I haven’t removed the paneling yet, but I think there is no insulation behind it.

Facing wooden building brick is a common occurrence. Brickwork allows you to update and give an old house a completely respectable look. However, often at the stage of this event, many do not immediately think about insulation, but during wintering it turns out that a brick wall does not protect the house from the cold. Insulation of a wooden house lined with bricks not an easy task. Experts recommend thermal insulation of the building at the construction stage. facing works, but, unfortunately, not everyone listens to their opinion. How to insulate log house having brick facade? Let's look into this issue.

There are three ways to solve the problem:

1. Insulate the outside of the brickwork.
2. Insulate the space between the log and brick wall.
3. Make thermal insulation inside the house.

The first method is the most acceptable from the point of view of heat preservation and safety of the wooden structure. But at the same time, choosing this option, you will have to sacrifice the aesthetic characteristics of the house, since all the beauty of the brick cladding will be hidden. In addition, a lot of investment in new finishing will be required.

The remaining two options have significant disadvantages, which we will discuss in more detail.

Is it possible to install thermal insulation between walls?

Many experts do not recommend filling the space between the walls with any thermal insulation material. And that's why. When facing a residential building or bathhouse with brick, be sure to leave a technological gap of about 25 cm. It is necessary for ventilation of the wooden triple. If brickwork make it close to the wall, then after a certain period of time the wood will begin to rot, mold and mildew will appear on it, and it will all end in rotting of the wood.

This can also happen if the space is filled with insulation. Some, at their own peril and risk, resort to a similar method of thermal insulation, blowing foam insulation into the holes made in the brickwork. The material completely fills the empty cavities, depriving the wooden wall of any ventilation. We do not recommend insulating a house in this way, as this can lead to unpleasant, but very predictable consequences.

Disadvantages of internal insulation

Internal thermal insulation is also not the best option both for log and timber houses. This insulation has a number of disadvantages:

1. Moisture and steam formed inside the house have no outlet, and the effect of a thermos is created in the room.
2. The dew point moves towards the room, which leads to the formation of condensation on the internal walls.
3. The house will warm up faster, but also cool down faster.
4. The usable area of ​​the rooms is reduced.

As you can see, it is extremely undesirable to insulate a wooden house from the inside if it is lined with brick. Moisture will stagnate in the wood, which will lead to the appearance of mold and mildew, and as a result, wooden structures may rot.

Regardless of what material and method of insulation is chosen, it is necessary to make holes in the cladding through which air will pass and ventilate the walls. In addition, the house must have a good ventilation system.

Materials for external thermal insulation

In this case, the house can be insulated with any materials suitable for.

Insulate brick walls can be done using:

• polystyrene foam;
• mineral wool;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• polyurethane foam,
• thermal panels.

Characteristics of insulation

• Today it is very common. This is an inexpensive material that retains heat well, is easy to install, and holds its shape well.
• One of the best insulation materials is extruded polystyrene foam. It has minimal water absorption and low thermal conductivity. In addition, EPS is very durable, which is why it is often used for thermal insulation of blind areas and foundations.
• When insulating a facade with mineral wool, you need to take into account that for external thermal insulation only stone and basalt wool with a density of at least 80 kg/m3. Less dense material may lose its shape.
• Polyurethane foam is excellent for thermal insulation of a brick wall. It has low density, high thermal insulation characteristics and good adhesion. However, the material is not resistant to UV radiation, therefore, when insulating the facade, immediately after installation it must be covered with finishing.
• Thermal panels simultaneously perform the function of both heat insulation and finishing. They consist of several layers of PPU and EPS, and their front part made of clinker tiles, ceramics, porcelain stoneware or concrete. They have many advantages, but they are also quite expensive.

Methods of external insulation

• Insulation with polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene can be done in two ways: laying tile insulation in the cells of the frame or gluing the slabs directly to the wall. Detailed algorithm Actions for insulating an EPS house are described in the article. Thermal insulation with foam plastic is carried out in a similar way.
• performed by spraying using professional equipment.
• Installation of thermal panels is quite simple. Each element is provided with a “groove and tenon” type fastening. First, a starting profile is installed on which the elements are laid, joining them to each other. After final installation, the space between the wall and the panels is filled with foam.
• When laying mineral wool, installation of lathing is mandatory. The material strongly absorbs and accumulates moisture, which causes a decrease in its thermal insulation characteristics.
  The frame installation method allows you to make a ventilation hole between the wall and the insulation, as well as install a hydro- and vapor barrier layer on both sides of the insulation. Detailed Guide instructions for installing mineral wool can be found in the article.

Internal insulation with warm plaster

For a wooden house, sawdust plaster, which consists of cement, clay, sawdust and paper, is best suited. Air passes through it, which allows the tree to breathe.

The work is performed in the following sequence.

IN this material We will tell you how to line a wooden house with brick, in which cases it is worth covering it, how to insulate a house already lined with brick, the pros and cons of finishing such a structure, and we will provide step-by-step instructions for finishing.

For the construction of wooden houses http://arhdom.com it is best to take natural and durable materials. Favorable microclimate for interior spaces Wood creates a beautiful look, but on the other hand, a house made of brick is considered more reliable. Therefore, many people decide to simply use both materials.

Is it worth covering a wooden house with bricks?

This option is not often found, primarily due to the high cost of construction, but there are times when brick cladding is the most optimal solution. And so, in what cases is it worth covering a wooden house with bricks:

• If low-quality material was used to build the house, for example, timber natural humidity. Such material needs protection, as it quickly deteriorates and loses its attractiveness. appearance;
• If additional thermal insulation is required. In this case, the house is faced with brick, and insulation is laid between the walls;
• Brick cladding is often used for frame houses.

How to insulate a wooden house lined with brick

There are two options for insulating a wooden house lined with brick. The first is from the inside, using mineral wool, polystyrene foam or drywall. But there are a lot of disadvantages: the interior space of the house is eaten up, there is a high risk that the wood will become damp, polystyrene foam is not the most environmentally friendly safe material For internal insulation. When laying basalt insulation from the inside, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier on both sides. Then cover it with clapboard or imitation timber.

The second option is insulation from the outside. It is best to use mineral wool or basalt slabs, but due to their ability to absorb moisture, insulation will need to be laid on both sides vapor barrier film. As an option, you can use extruded polystyrene; it does not require vapor barrier and can last more than 50 years. Afterwards, the insulation is covered with decorative brick, siding or any other material.

But the most perfect option, this is the installation of insulation, even before the wooden house is covered with brick.

Finishing a wooden house with brick: pros and cons

Before finishing a wooden house with brick, you need to know the pros and cons. And so, from the positive points we can highlight:

• Additional insulation;
• Improving the appearance, provided that the appearance of the tree is damaged;
• Brick is best option when it is necessary to perform external finishing panel house or built from raw timber;
• Reduces the risk of fire;
• Reliable protection for wood from weather factors.

Now let's talk about the cons:

• Under a layer of brick, the wood will not “breathe” normally, which means it will be necessary to provide ventilation or lay a vapor barrier layer;
• Additional foundation costs. Brick is much heavier than wood and needs a reliable and strong foundation.

Finishing a wooden house with brick. Step-by-step instruction

When facing the facade, decorative brick is usually used; it has a more attractive appearance, but at the same time, silicate or clinker bricks can be used.

Brief step-by-step instruction for finishing a wooden house with brick:

• Before covering a wooden house facing bricks the surface of the wall is cleaned of excess nails and other things, treated with an antiseptic against fungus and insects;
• A vapor barrier film is laid;
• The lathing is being carried out, the distance between the slats is slightly less than the width of the insulation (mineral wool);
• The insulation is laid and fixed using disc-shaped dowels;
• A vapor barrier film is again laid on the insulation;
• A gap of 2-4 cm is left between the insulation and the facing brick for ventilation;
• Plumb lines are thrown from the corners of the house, this way you can control the correct placement of the bricks. The horizontal laying position is controlled using a level;
• Between wooden wall and brickwork it is necessary to make a bond. For this you can use fittings or metal mesh. The reinforcement (mesh) is attached to wooden surface and should not protrude beyond the brickwork, the second end of the reinforcement is recessed into the brickwork;
• Laying is done in half a brick;
• In the lower and upper rows of installation, we leave gaps between the bricks for ventilation, 1-.05 cm wide. The distance between the vents should be no more than 4 m. Often such vents are made from hollow brick, laying on the edge. The holes are covered with a rodent mesh.

Based on materials from ArhDom.com

Building a house from one brick in our climate is not the most best idea: its thermal conductivity is too high, which is why the walls must be thick. But how to use it finishing material- this is already more economically justified: facing a house with bricks, with proper insulation, will help to save on heating and will give the building a “major” appearance. If the walls are made of foam blocks or other light and warm building blocks, then such finishing will also be windproof. Wooden houses are also covered with bricks, but in this case there are some peculiarities: it is necessary to ensure the removal of vapors from the wood, otherwise mold, mildew and expensive repairs with a complete overhaul of the finish will occur.

Which brick to use

Facing bricks are produced according to different technologies, thanks to which he has different characteristics and prices:

• Ceramic. Of all the finishing materials, it is the most inexpensive. One of the disadvantages is high hygroscopicity: 6-15% depending on the technology and batch. When water gets into the pores, it expands when it freezes, causing destruction and the brick begins to crumble. Even the special finishing one, in which in factories the bed (the part that ends up outside) is specially protected. The solution is to cover the wall with a hydrophobic compound after installation. Only those that do not form a vapor-proof film. When choosing, pay attention to this: excess moisture must be removed. Frost resistance of ceramic facing bricks is 25-75 cycles (how many times it can withstand freezing/freezing without deterioration). The higher this indicator, the higher the price. This is explained at great expense in production.
• Hyper-pressed or non-firing. This type of facing brick is produced not by firing, but by pressing. It no longer contains clay, but lime with various fillers and pigments. The possibility of using pigments allows you to obtain a wide color scheme. The front surface is often nonlinear, imitating wild stone. Looks decorative. But such nonlinearity threatens delamination: an uneven surface allows water to flow into the pores more abundantly and freezes in cold weather. This is treated in the same way as in the case of ceramics: hydrophobic impregnation. The frost resistance of high-quality unfired bricks is stated by manufacturers to be from 75 to 150 cycles.

  

• Clinker. This brick is also ceramic, but a special technology gives it very high strength and density. Denser material absorbs water much worse. This is good for use, but when laying it it leads to difficulties: in order for the wall not to “float”, it must be laid on a hard, low-plasticity mortar, and it is more difficult to work with. Another disadvantage that limits the wide distribution of a material with excellent characteristics is that it is expensive compared to previous materials: prices are 50-150% higher, depending on the manufacturer. Frost resistance of clinker is from 100 to 150 cycles. Clinker cladding of a house with bricks is not a cheap pleasure, but it is the most attractive in appearance.

  

• Silicate. The cheapest, but also the most “quickly perishable” of facing bricks: its frost resistance is 25-50 cycles. It conducts heat better. Not much, but still: the average thermal conductivity of ceramic is 0.16, silicate is 0.18. In addition, it is heavier: on average, the weight of ceramics is 2.4 kg, silicate of the same size is 3 kg. More weight requires a more powerful foundation and the price gain (silicate is cheaper) is not so great. If you consider that heating costs will also be higher, then the gain is questionable. It is advisable to cover the house with sand-lime brick in warm regions. In the northern regions this is completely unprofitable.

  

  Cladding the house from sand-lime brick- the most inexpensive, but, unfortunately, the most short-lived type of finishing

Choosing the type of brick is not everything. It is also necessary to pay attention to the size and shape of the holes. Solid finishing bricks are rarely used: they are more expensive and weigh more. On average, voids occupy about 28%, but they can be large and small. Given equal characteristics, give preference to bricks with small holes: the mortar will not flow into them. This will reduce the consumption of masonry mortar and increase the strength of the masonry.

If you decide to clad the house with hyper-pressed brick, it should be made no earlier than 15-20 days ago. During this time, it gains basic strength (about 80%) and can be transported and loaded without fear.

Please note that the brick packaging should not be exposed to water during storage. This is especially true if you are planning to leave it for the winter.

How to cover a wooden house (timber, log, frame) with bricks

The most difficulties arise when finishing a wooden house with bricks: the materials have very different characteristics, and it is not easy to make a good bond out of them. The whole secret here is the need for a ventilation gap between the cladding and the insulation layer, which is usually placed on a wooden wall. A windproofing membrane is laid on top of the insulation. Required condition- it must be vapor-permeable (Izospan A, Izospan AS, Tyvek HouseRep, Megaizol SD, etc.). Only under such conditions will the room be normal humidity and rot and fungus will not develop between the cladding and the wooden wall.

Instead of windproofing, you can protect the surface of the insulation with fiberglass or fiberglass. With sufficient thickness wooden walls The thermal insulation layer is simply missing, the wind insulation and ventilation gap remain.

The ventilation gap must be at least 60 mm. It stretches from the very bottom of the wall - it starts after the base - and to the top. To ensure air flow, ventilation ducts are made in the first row through which air enters. Exit holes are installed under the roof in the eaves. The area of ​​ventilation holes is 75 cm2 for every 20 m2 of wall. The vents in the bottom row can be made in several ways:

• lay a brick with through holes on its side;
• partially fill the side seams with mortar (when laying the mortar, place a ruler, then remove it);
• make two or three holes and install gratings.

Regarding what kind of insulation to use. The most acceptable option is mineral wool in mats or rolls. The use of polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene is undesirable: they do not conduct steam. This will lead to the wood rotting, and indoor humidity will be higher than normal.

Another important point: You can cover a wooden house with bricks only after the main shrinkage of the frame has taken place. And this is at least 1.5-2 years. In this sense, it is easier with old wooden houses: the main processes have taken place in them.

Pros and cons of a wooden house lined with brick

The combination of materials so different in all characteristics is a complex and completely ambiguous matter. The positive aspects include:

There are enough negative points:

In general, this is not an ideal solution. If you are still planning your house, think a few times. Maybe it would be better to build them and then cover them with bricks. These materials coordinate much better and complement each other's qualities. It is worth covering a wooden house with bricks if the house is old, the wood has darkened, and it is necessary to give it a more attractive appearance.

Wall cladding technology

First the wood is processed protective impregnation for outdoor work. Then the sheathing is made of planed timber (also impregnated). The dimensions of the timber depend on the required thickness of the thermal insulation layer. Typically, for Central Russia, the thickness of basalt wool is about 50 mm, for more northern regions from 100 to 150 mm. But exactly everything is calculated depending on the thickness of the wall (made of timber or logs) and the brick chosen for cladding.

The insulation is laid very tightly, without gaps: the sheathing is padded taking into account its width. The distance between the bars should be a couple of centimeters less than the width of the insulation. This way the material will be laid with force. It will fit tightly to the sheathing, which will minimize the formation of cold bridges.

An example of brick cladding on the wall of a wooden and frame house

Lay on top of the insulation windproof membrane. It must be vapor permeable, and if the vapor permeability is one-sided, then moisture must be removed from the room. Fasten the membrane with staplers to the sheathing. Next, leave a gap for ventilation of at least 60 mm and install a wall made of facing bricks.

How to do it right

There are several subtleties that you need to know. The house is usually covered with half a brick. Without support, the wall turns out to be shaky, especially over large areas. To make it stand firmly, it is tied to a wooden wall. There are two ways:

Single dressings should be located over the entire surface of the wall. There are different recommendations - at a distance of about 50 cm from one another or 4 pieces per square meter.

If you are planning to cover a house with bricks with your own hands, problems may arise with the horizontality and verticality of the masonry. The following technique can help, allowing you to simultaneously control all directions:

• Long pins are driven horizontally into the corners of the house under the roof and above the base. They should protrude from the wall at a distance greater than the entire thickness of the finish.
• At one corner, a wire is tied to the upper pin at a distance corresponding to the outer edge of the masonry and lowered down, movably fixed to the lower nail.
• A plumb line is used to check and set its verticality and firmly fix it.
• Also, a vertical wire is tied at the same distance at the other end of the wall.
• A horizontal cord is tied between two stretched strings. It will serve as a guide during laying: it can be moved upward as the rows are laid. Just every time you need to check the horizontalness using a level.

All of the above applies to frame houses. They also require a ventilation gap. The situation is similar: on the outside there is a material that conducts moisture much worse than those located inside. In this case, only wire or strips of tin for bandaging are attached to the frame posts.

To reinforce or not

In general, reinforcement makes the wall stronger and more reliable. Therefore it is better to reinforce. But this complicates and slows down the laying, which leads to an increase in the cost of work (if craftsmen were hired).

If you do it yourself, then you need to lay rows with reinforcement approximately every 5th row. A special mesh with a cell size of 50-50 mm or two longitudinal reinforcement bars with a diameter of 6 mm are used as reinforcement. At the same time, the size of the seam, both with and without reinforcement, should be the same.

The brick cladding of a house was filmed “live”, the laying technique was “under the rod”. The seams turn out beautiful, but water flows into them, which is then absorbed by the brick. Therefore, the seams cannot be left in this form. They must be filled with mortar and embroidered in the same plane as the surface of the brick. Then the absorption of water during bad weather will be significantly reduced, and the “life” of brick wall cladding will increase significantly. The laying process itself is demonstrated correctly: the mortar is laid carefully, and any drops that fall on the surface are immediately wiped away.

Facing a house with bricks made of aerated concrete, foam concrete and gas silicate

Vapor permeability cellular concrete also higher than that of brick. That is, the situation is exactly the same: inside the room there is material that removes vapors better. Therefore, to ensure a normal microclimate in the room and a long service life, a ventilation gap between the brickwork and the wall and foam blocks is necessary.

If you line a house made of aerated concrete (foam concrete, aerated silicate) with bricks without a gap, its service life will decrease by about 60%: condensation will accumulate at the boundary of the two materials. At low temperatures frozen moisture will destroy the shell of the bubbles, gradually destroying the entire material and significantly worsening its characteristics.

Cladding options aerated concrete house bricks and their characteristics

Additional insulation materials are used very rarely; if they are still needed, all the rules are the same as for cladding a wooden house: basalt wool, protected by wind insulation.

The size of the ventilation gap is from 60 to 150 mm. Number of connections between two walls: at least 3 pieces per square meter of masonry, their cross section- not less than 5 mm 2 per 1 m 2. For connections, you can use screw or stainless steel nails with a length of at least 120 mm. They are driven not perpendicular to the wall, but at an angle of at least 45°. You can use galvanized strips with perforations, which are nailed on one side building blocks, and the second end is inserted into the brickwork, where it is bent at an angle. Note: connections should not be embedded in the masonry joints of the main wall. Only nailed to the front surface of the blocks.

The best cladding for walls made of aerated concrete and foam concrete is brick with a ventilation gap

Slag or slag-pouring house

Brick cladding in the case of buildings using slag is used more often when cracks spread along the walls. This happens mainly when the slag has exhausted its resource and began to crumble. On average, its service life is 50 years, it is reduced if the humidity of the walls is high.

Brick cladding of a cinder block (cinder block) house will only delay the inevitable: it will slow down the destruction, but will not stop it. The duration of the delay depends on the condition of the material and on measures taken. On average he is 8-15 years old. It is hardly possible to do without consulting a specialist: the cost of a mistake is too high.

In most cases, it is recommended to build a frame around the house, on which to transfer part of the load of the floor and roof, and carry out waterproofing work. One of which is the external protection of walls from precipitation using brick cladding. The brick is selected with the lowest water absorption. For greater protection, the masonry can be impregnated with a hydrophobic compound (but does not create a vapor-proof film). Penetrating hydrophobic impregnation of the main wall will not be superfluous. To do this, you can use impregnations such as “Penetron” and analogues. They will simultaneously strengthen the material and significantly reduce water saturation.

Watch the video about the practice of facing old buildings with bricks.

About choosing suppliers and prices

Prices for the same materials vary greatly depending on the region. To correctly assess the situation, you need to conduct your own market research: call or visit the largest suppliers, look at offers in the region online. During the call, you need to get technical data and find out prices. Then compare the characteristics of the brick and compare the prices.

What can I advise: do not buy materials that are too cheap. If the difference from the average market price is 15-20%, most likely these are the remnants of last year’s not-so-successful batch. For the rest, look at the ratio of price and declared characteristics.

Average prices in Moscow are as follows:

• silicate facing brick - 11-21 rubles/piece;
• ceramic facing - 18-35 rubles/piece (full-bodied 45-65 rubles/piece);
• hyperpressed non-firing - 25-31 rubles/piece;
• clinker - 27-40 rubles/piece.

After selecting several possible suppliers, look at their products in person. Smooth edges, uniform coloring, absence of cracks and any defects - this is what you should see.

About batch sizes. It is advisable to purchase the entire volume of material for cladding at once. This will help you save about 10-15%. Some suppliers offer large quantities to be delivered by dump trucks directly from the factory. This is cheaper and eliminates additional overload, which means less combat.

Another advantage of purchasing in bulk is that there will most likely be only one batch, which guarantees uniform coloring. In any case, facing a house with bricks is carried out from several packages at the same time. So even slightly different shades will not create color spots.

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