How to properly fill floors in a house. Pouring the floor in an apartment - all about the materials and technology for creating a perfectly flat floor. What mortar to fill the floors with.

Floors are poured in both utility and residential areas. In terms of cost, durability and strength, none of the other types of floors used in homes can be compared with poured ones. As for the filling technology, it is quite simple.

How to fill the floors in the house?

The process of pouring floors can be roughly divided into the following stages:

construction of a cushion of sand and crushed stone;
waterproofing device;
laying reinforcing mesh;
pouring concrete mortar and leveling;
surface grouting;
finishing.

Even a person with no experience can do it in the house, but it is advisable to invite an assistant. This way you can save money own time and strength.

Preparatory work is carried out as follows:

At the site where the pouring is supposed to be done, the soil is removed to a depth of 15-20 cm.
The bottom is leveled using a level and compacted well.

You can make a tamping tool at home. To do this, you will need a log 0.5 or 1 m long, which must be nailed to the board. A layer of sand 10 cm thick is poured onto the compacted bottom of the site, spilled with water, and compacted. Next, lay the same layer of crushed stone with a fraction of 40-50 mm and compact it again. To level the surface, it is also good to sprinkle a little crushed stone chips or sand on top of the crushed stone.

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Waterproofing floors and formwork construction

To create a waterproofing layer, roll materials, for example, polyethylene film, are used. To make the waterproofing more reliable, it is better to lay polyethylene in several layers. Its canvases must be spread overlapping, the edges must overlap each other by 15-20 cm. The edges of the film are wrapped on the walls to the height at which the filling is supposed to be done, and secured there.

If the area to be filled is large, the work is carried out using “cards”, i.e. rectangular areas of a certain size. The size of such areas is determined depending on the productivity of workers. Formwork is installed around the perimeter, for which damp, freshly sawn wood or laminated plywood is used. The dimensions of the formwork are calculated depending on how much working people can pour in one shift.

In order to evenly fill the floor in the house, its thickness must be the same everywhere.

To comply with this rule, guides are used, along which the upper boundary of the fill will be set. Pipes most often serve in this capacity. rectangular section: They can be purchased at construction markets. Also suitable edged boards and timber with smooth edges.

Before pouring the floors, it is better to lubricate the guides special means. Thanks to this treatment, the guides will be easier to separate from the hardened concrete, and the cement laitance will be more convenient to remove. If the product is unavailable, you can use used engine oil instead.

The guides are installed on special pins and brought to a horizontal position, for which a water level, an optical level, or a building level are used.

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Why do you need to reinforce the floor?

To properly fill the floor, it is necessary to perform reinforcement. This operation helps make the structure stronger and extends its service life. Fine mesh is used for reinforcement. In the building materials markets you can purchase special plastic products. It cannot be laid on the ground, as it will have no effect. The mesh must be raised by a third of the thickness of the screed; this is done using stands. They should be placed on cut-out asbestos cement sheets rectangles. If the mesh is soft, pins are stuck into the ground and pulled over them.

If it is expected that the concrete floor will be subject to increased loads, arrange reinforcement cage. It is performed by tying together metal rods whose thickness is 8-16 mm. In this case, the concrete mixture will need to be compacted more intensively.

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How to pour a concrete floor and level it?

Concrete is poured along exposed beacons.

When pouring the floor, you should try to avoid long breaks in work. When pouring floors for houses, the sites are not very large. If the volumes are large, it is better to rent a concrete mixer than to mix the solution yourself. It must be prepared from cement, crushed stone, sand and water, mixing them in proportions 1: 4: 2: 0.4. It is better to choose a cement grade of at least M400 or M500. In this case, sand must be taken without any impurities, dirt, or clay. To mix the solution you can use construction mixer or even a shovel if the volume of the batch is small.

The prepared concrete mixture is poured into a prepared map, fenced off with formwork, and leveled with a shovel. The movements should be stabbing: this allows the mass to be compacted and excess air trapped there to be removed from the concrete mixture. It is more convenient to use a deep vibrator for this. It is lowered into the concrete mixture in a checkerboard pattern. When laitance comes to the surface and the crushed stone moves down, the vibration must be transferred to another place.

Leveling procedures above the surface should be carried out using a rule, resting it on pre-installed guides. Then, using a trowel, a more thorough leveling is carried out. Movements should be semicircular, with a small amplitude.

The screed will need to be looked after: its surface must be moistened with water for three days. After this, it is covered with plastic film. This will make the concrete dry more uniformly. The screed should be protected from drafts and direct sunlight.

The need to create a concrete floor arises before finishing in residential and sanitary premises, as well as in garages, sheds, and places where increased load on the surface is expected. Until recently, its only drawback was low temperature, however, with the advent of the “warm floor” system, this problem was successfully solved.

Technology for pouring concrete floors - main stages

Waterproofing and thermal insulation of the base;
Reinforcement;
Arrangement of beacons;
Subfloor installation;
Filling the screed.

The cost of carrying out the entire complex of work depends on the thickness of the layer and the composition of the applied solution, as well as the complexity of the work. The most affordable option considered a cement-sand screed. Using reinforcing mesh will cost a little more. The most expensive option is the one in which a top hardened layer is applied; in comparison with a conventional floor, it is 30-40% more expensive.

If it is necessary to pour a concrete floor on the ground, preparatory stage“zero” marking of the finished floor is made (the level at which the solution will be poured is noted). To do this, from the lowest point on doorway put 1 meter up and apply it to the walls using a level and ruler horizontal line. We set aside 1 meter down from this line and draw another horizontal line on all the walls of the room. This will be the finished floor level. We hammer nails into the corners and tighten the cord.

Filming upper layer soil to a depth of 35 cm below the mark. We compact the soil using improvised means or a vibrating machine.

If the building is on strip foundation, and distance from finishing level to the ground exceeds 35 cm, pour a layer of sand, after which we carry out compaction.

We produce bedding

We fill in gravel (5-10 cm) and water it with water, after which we compact it.
We arrange a layer of sand 10 cm thick, pour it with water and tamp it down.
We create a layer of crushed stone with a fraction of 40-50 mm (10 cm), which we carefully level and compact, and sprinkle sand or crushed stone chips on top.

Laying waterproofing on the floor

These can be roll materials, roofing felt, membranes or polyethylene film with a density index of 200 microns. After the material is spread over the entire surface of the base, the edges along the perimeter are brought to the “zero” mark and attached to the walls with tape. The joints are also taped.

To ensure the proper level of thermal insulation, expanded clay, extruded polystyrene foam, perlite, polystyrene foam, basalt wool required density or polyurethane.

In some cases, hydro- and thermal insulation can be carried out on a layer of “lean” concrete (a solution of liquid consistency) in order to eliminate the risk of damage to the insulating materials.

Concrete reinforcement for floors

Reinforcement is necessary in order to increase the strength of the floor. The reinforced base is able to withstand increased loads, as they are distributed evenly over the surface.

The reinforcing material can be plastic or metal mesh or a frame made of reinforcement (a more expensive option). Most often, a 10x10 cm reinforcing mesh is used, which is laid on “chairs” 2-3 cm high. This will allow it to fully demonstrate its functions.

Installation of beacons on the floor

Profiles can act as guides, metal pipes or wooden blocks. The guides are laid on concrete “buns”. The location of the “beacons” must correspond to the “zero” marking and be strictly horizontal. We knock down the formwork-frame made of wood. The height of the formwork is set to zero.

Pouring concrete solution

To ensure high strength characteristics, the solution is created on the basis of M400-M500 cement. Before we start pouring, we lay a damper tape along the walls and along the perimeter of the protruding structures of the building. This will prevent the mortar from sticking tightly to the wall surfaces.

We fill the floor with concrete, after it we level the mixture and compact it using a deep vibrator until cement “laitance” appears. Using the rule, we level the solution.

Over the next week, constantly moisten the surface. You can cover the base with film to prevent it from drying out and cracking the concrete. The floor will reach maximum strength in 4-5 weeks.

Creating a leveling screed

Often, when pouring a concrete floor, it is not possible to obtain a perfectly flat surface, so you have to apply a screed. The best option will use self-leveling compounds. Simply pour them onto the base and smooth them out using a special brush. Air bubbles are removed from the solution using a needle roller. This screed takes an average of 1 week to dry, after which you can begin laying the finishing material.

If you are faced with the question of installing a concrete floor on the floors, as opposed to pouring mortar on the ground, there is no need to backfill it. The rest of the work is carried out by analogy.

Seam cutting

In places where the concrete floor comes into contact with walls, columns and other structural elements buildings need to be insulated expansion joints. The depth of such seams is 1.3 times the thickness of the base.

After cutting, the seams are filled with a special sealant. This event carried out before cracks appear on the floor, but after the concrete has gained the necessary strength.

In this article we will look at the basic methods of creating a perfectly flat floor in an apartment. Preparatory and key stages are presented. I will explain which materials are most effective.

If you need to renovate your apartment with high quality and in a modern way, then you cannot do without replacing the flooring. In terms of price it is more profitable. And the appearance of the new coating is quite attractive.

A perfectly flat floor - why is it needed?

Even in a new building, there are differences in the floors. They can reach 10 cm. Today, panel slabs are laid in such a way that the ceiling between floors is smooth surface directed towards the ceiling, and lumpy - towards the floor. And on this side, without screeds, you can only lay linoleum. The parquet will be constantly deformed.

Thus, we fill the floor according to two main reasons:

Laying flooring.
Construction of a floor with water or electric heating.
Other floor insulation.

For your information

To get a perfectly even coating, we use cement filling. This operation is also called screeding. It is necessary before laying the topcoat. In this regard, many owners have a question about how to properly fill the floors in the apartment. This technology is not anything overly complicated. The main thing is to perform all operations correctly and step by step.

Mortars for perfect pouring - building mixtures or concrete? Choice

IN modern conditions Filling the floor screed with your own hands is quite feasible. And there is a large assortment of various Russian and foreign levelers on sale. These are innovative tools.

Their main specificity is that they are poured without much work with beacons and guides.

We breed them competently, using strict technology. They are affected by gravity and tension. And they are evenly distributed throughout work surface. Cover all uneven areas and bumps. This is the easiest way to fill the floors to obtain an even, seamless and shiny finish.

There is also a classic - the use of cement compositions. They cost less. But the filling technology is more complicated. What to choose and how to fill the floors in the premises, each owner decides for himself, based on his budget, goals and scope of work.

Preparation steps before making a poured floor

For preparatory and main work we use the following arsenal:

Reiki. They are necessary for beacons.
Metal brush.
Container for working personnel.
Roller for priming.
Sidewalk scraper.
A small brush for applying primer to hard-to-reach or small areas.
Putty knife.
Needle type roller.
Drill with a nozzle for mixing the solution.
Primer.

You can fill the floors in your apartment correctly if you act strictly step by step. And the stages of work are as follows:

Surface preparation. Removing old coating, cleaning from dust and dirt.
Padding.
Waterproofing.
Thermal insulation.
Checking horizontality.

Preparing the base - leveling and waterproofing

It is necessary to fill the floors in the apartment step by step. This the most important condition to get the proper result.

The first step is preparing the base. We remove the old coating. We carry out a thorough cleaning. We eliminate dust and dirt. We use a vacuum cleaner. Degrease the surface with a simple soap mixture.

If you need to fill the floor in a room that does not have a threshold, we create one. For this we use slats. This prevents the leveling agent from leaking into adjacent rooms.

Important

Before the pouring process, it is important to remove outdated baseboards. And we must glue the wall-floor joints. For this there is good remedy– damper tape.

Next, the floor in the room is covered with a primer. Thanks to it, the floor adheres better to the base. Apply at least two layers of primer. Apply the second layer only after the first layer has completely dried. Priming continues while it is still absorbed by the base.

The primer enhances the strength of the surface and its adhesion to future materials.

When we work with classics (concrete-sand composition), we use a universal primer. In rooms of modest size, we apply it with a brush. IN large rooms– roller.

Before starting other work, the primer dries for about two hours.

The main work starts one day after this operation.

At this stage the level. We walk around the room with him. And we make horizontal marks on the walls. We will rely on them during the pouring process.

Concrete floor reinforcement

How to fill the floor in an apartment with a reinforced screed? This issue is especially relevant when working on the ground. His solution is the use of reinforcement. We use one of these options:

Special steel mesh.
Fibrin. It is fibrous plastic or metal. We add it to the working solution.

At the reinforcement stage, we install wiring and install heating technologies.

Nuances of floor structure reinforcement

We reinforce the concrete floor in the house so that the structure receives powerful protection from mechanical stress and strong vibrations. This also significantly increases the service life of the floor.

Motives for floor reinforcement:

Laying a floating screed according to the project.
Construction of a floor on the ground.
Compliance with certain building regulations in underfloor heating technologies.
The floor is used for industrial purposes and is subject to enormous loads.
The height of the concrete layer exceeds 5 cm.

If the floor structures are subject to serious loads, we give preference to metal reinforcement.

The rod diameter is affected by operating conditions and loads. Usually it is 0.6 - 1.2 cm. Cell parameters: 1 x 1 x 2 x 2 cm.

To fasten the mesh we use welding or binding wire. We often use ready-made meshes in our work. They are based on VR-1 wire and d 2-6 mm. The cell parameters are in the range of 5 x 5 - 2 x 2 cm.

When reinforcing using this method, we fill the floor in the apartment in stages and follow the following order:

The position of the mesh is in the very thickness of the concrete. This way the steel is protected from corrosion.
Thoroughly clean the base from debris and dirt.
Repairing cracks (if any). Their dust removal. Padding.
Priming the base in 2-3 cycles.
Waterproofing and sound insulation are installed.
Marking is made and a level is applied.
The mesh is placed on stands. This is how the material ends up in the thick of the concrete. We keep the overlap in one cell.
Connecting butt sections using tying wire.
Beacons are attached to the reinforcing layer. This cannot be done without metal U-like profiles.
The train is placed between the lighthouses. It is leveled by the rule.
After the concrete has cured, the guides are removed. The existing voids are filled with the mixture.
A protective film is spread over the screed. Lasts 5-7 days.

For your information

We use fiber material for surfaces located in alkaline environments, where temperature parameters do not exceed 200 degrees.

Creation of formwork. Working with Guides

We lay the concrete floor in parts - cards. These are the plots rectangular shape. Their parameters are determined by two factors:

Total surface area.
Possibility of filling the composition in one working cycle.

We place formwork along the perimeter of these areas to mark the finished floor. It is created from a 5 x 10 cm board. We pre-drill holes in the boards for reinforcing pins with a distance of 50 cm. We apply the formwork lines to the seam pattern.

We fill the floor in a new house along the guides. We can use them as:

metal profiles,
steel corners 5 x 5 x 0.3 cm,
profile pipe 4 x 2 x 0.2 cm.

We install the guides by welding to reinforcement posts with a diameter of 1.2 cm. To control the evenness, we use an optical level.

All areas where the surface is adjacent to the load-bearing components are covered with Izolon with a density of 4 mm. This is a damper tape based on polyethylene foam.

So we fill the floor in parts. Just before filling, we treat all profiles with engine oil. And we moisten the rough base with water.

Laying waterproofing

How to fill the floor in an apartment yourself if there are significant gaps in the base? The areas where walls meet floors are considered particularly vulnerable. Areas near communications are also considered weak. Here we lay waterproofing.

To do this, we use the following types of water protection:

Films and rolls. These are the most common types. This polymer membranes, consisting of many layers. They also have thermal insulating properties.
Liquid. These are great pore filling products. It turns out a thin water-repellent film
Mastics. These are adhesive plaster mixtures. Their bases are polymers, resins, liquid rubber. The mastic forms a powerful waterproof layer.
Powders. They use plasticizers and binders. They need to be diluted with water according to the instructions.

Surface level and placement of beacons

Many owners are interested in how to fill the floor in an apartment efficiently and evenly? To do this, be sure to determine the level of the screed and install beacons (special slats).

Using a level, check the evenness of the base. We indicate the level of the intended coverage on the walls.

From plastered areas, remove the plaster 0.25 cm above this line. Using these notations we identify the highest point of the surface. This is a guarantee of proper filling.

Here the working algorithm is:

We measure 1 m up the wall, counting from the door threshold. We draw a line.
We draw a line around the perimeter of the room. We maintain its parallelism using a level.
The second parallel is drawn at a distance of 1 m under the control symbol.
We drive nails into the corners of the room on the bottom line and stretch the wire.

Thanks to the marks on the load-bearing components in new apartment It’s easier to place beacons. The distances between beacons correspond to the length of the rule. We apply the rule to level the mixture.

The final result depends on the placement of the slats. After all the work, the slats are removed. They leave recesses that can easily be filled with the same solution that was used for the screed.

With guidelines it is much easier to fill the screed. And so we get the necessary flat surface. We install beacons even for work on a small area.

Bedding question

Before making the working composition and pouring it onto the required area, you need to make a bedding. This is the so-called pillow. It consists of three layers.

The initial one is gravel. Density: 5 -10 cm. Water it with water and tamp it down. To control the thickness of the layer, be sure to drive pegs directly into the soil. We put them by level. Having slept and compacted this layer, we take them out.
The second one is sandy. Density -10 cm. We also adjust the thickness with pegs. We water the sand and compact it using a vibrating plate.
Shchebnevy. Thickness – 10 cm. We carefully level it and make it denser. There should be no sharp edges on the surface. Suitable crushed stone has a fraction of 4-5 cm. After compaction, sprinkle it a little with sand and tamp it again.

Horizontal level adjustable

Video guide for installing beacons

Creation of the working staff

This composition is not difficult to create. We dilute it in water strictly according to the instructions. Mix using a drill with a special attachment. This way we get a homogeneous composition.

A simple recipe for preparing a sand-cement mixture is as follows:

4 shares of perlite are used. Pour 2 parts of water on them.
Add water and cement one part at a time to the solution. Mix.
Add two parts of sand and 10 parts of water.
Mix the mixture until it reaches a plastic consistency.

This option is good for use in a new private home. It is also often used on the lower floors of buildings with many floors. In an apartment it is also justified if a small layer of fill is created.

Pouring process

How to fill the surface of an existing base more efficiently? If all measures for leveling have already been provided, then the process should be completed in one day. This is the key to uniform composition.

Filling begins from the far corner of the room. To level the layer, apply the rule. We evenly distribute the material within the boundaries of the fixed beacons.

Using a needle roller, remove air from the mixture. This way we exclude the occurrence of internal voids in it. Then we level the screed completely. We repeat the operations until the base is completely filled.

If you have some misunderstandings, you can watch a video of how to pour a floor screed with your own hands.

Floor work

How to pour concrete floors and when should it be done? It is important to know one specific thing here - bedding is not required.

First we study the floor slab. If there are cracks or chips on it, we fill them with a repair compound.

When working with wooden floors, we also repair them if necessary.

We provide any overlap with waterproofing - thick (200-300 microns) polyethylene film.

We put up beacons, fill the composition with a density of 10 cm. Further actions are identical to those for working with a floor on the ground. If there are any incomprehensible moments, you can watch a video of how floors in an apartment are poured over the ceilings.

Choosing a filling composition

The choice of screeding agent is a very important issue. And when deciding how and what to fill the floor in a new apartment, consider the following factors:

The cement-sand composition sets within an hour. After which it is problematic to level it. Here you need to work in a duet. One creates a mixture. The second one is to fill it and level it.
U ready-made compositions more liquid consistency. They spread out, aligning horizontally. This results in a smoother surface.
Concrete finally hardens in 4 weeks. And the composition in a couple of days.

After filling and leveling, protect the surface from the following influences:

temperature jumps,
ultraviolet,
air flows.

We cover it with film. This prevents the appearance of cracks in it.

To find out whether the screed is ready, we can use a special support component. If the screed has hardened thoroughly, remove the guide rails. We fill the voids with the composition.

We grind the concrete floor. After this operation, you can mount on the base flooring.

Floors filled with leveling mixtures can be loaded within 6-12 hours.

The type of planned floor covering dictates certain conditions. After installing the screed, some defects and sagging can be ignored if ceramic tiles are laid.

Advice

If you are planning laminate, parquet or linoleum, we use mixtures with a self-leveling effect. This way the surface will be perfectly smooth with a mirror reflection.

We prepare the mixtures strictly according to the instructions, pour them onto the floor. For leveling we use a special brush.

Then we treat the surface using a needle roller. This is a measure to eliminate air bubbles.

But even though the base is considered ready, I do not recommend placing furniture on it. This can be done in 5-7 days.

Working with wooden floors

When the house needs to be cleaned wooden floors and arrange concrete surfaces, you need to follow the following algorithm:

Dismantling old floors.
Leveling the site.
Making a pillow.
Installation of insulation.
Creating the composition and filling.

How to remove wooden floors and then pour screed, we consider in detail according to the indicated stages.

We dismantle old floors using a crowbar. We follow safety precautions.

Clean the surface of debris. Level the soil with a shovel.

Making a pillow. We use crushed stone with a fraction of 2-4 cm. We form a layer of 5 cm. We compact it.

To compensate thermal expansion throughout the screed, we arrange the perimeter of the room with foam sheets. Polystyrene foam is also a permanent formwork here. The thickness of one sheet is 20-50 cm.

The crushed stone layer is covered with a sand layer with a density of 10 cm.

We organize insulation using extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of at least 5 cm. Sheet parameters: 120 x 60 cm.

When laying, their locks are fastened, creating a monolithic surface. This material It is moisture resistant, so we do not waterproof it.

Sheets are laid using a level. Add sand in the required areas. Again, check the evenness of the sheet positions.

We work in two cycles. We put up formwork from boards. The composition elements and their proportions are as follows:

Cement: 1 share,

Sand: 2 shares,

Granite screening: 3 shares.

If all elements are dry, the first one is sent to the concrete mixer. granite screening, next is sand, last is cement. Mix everything thoroughly. Then add water.

If the sand is wet, pour water into the bucket to fill half its volume. Next comes cement. Mix it thoroughly. Add sand, then sifting. Finally, add water to obtain the mixture of the required consistency.

The mixture is neither liquid nor very thick.

Apply the resulting composition and level it using the rule. The density of the screed is 4-5 cm.

After pouring, the composition needs two days to harden.

Then we prepare the second half of the room. Operations are identical

We align the fresh screed in density with the previous screed

After complete pouring, the concrete hardens for 2 days. Then you get this result:

For your information

The screed will be completely strengthened in a month. During this period, we water it twice a day from a watering can. On the created base you can install warm floors or floor coverings.

Nuances of self-leveling floor

Self-leveling floor - also known as liquid floor - is a special composition. It is created on the basis of polymer elements. Before it hardens, it is a very liquid product. It is very easy to pour directly onto the prepared base. The liquid is quickly and without our intervention evenly distributed throughout the entire base, covering any defects.

There are these types of self-leveling floors:

Cement-acrylic.
Polyurethane.
Epoxy.

The cement-acrylic type is usually used in industrial facilities.

The advantages of this type:

Powerful resistance to moisture and wear.
Acceptable price.
No preparatory operations are required before pouring.
Service life – 30 years.
The presence of cracks does not affect the integrity of the surface in any way.

Huge labor costs.
The coating has no elasticity.

Polyurethane types

We use them more in residential premises. Their advantages:

Powerful resistance to moisture.
Good elasticity.
Solid resistance to heavy loads and wear.
Fast hardening.
Service life – 40 years.
Antimicrobial action.

Dangerous odor before complete hardening - risk of poisoning.
A significant expense is a huge financial outlay.

Epoxy look

It allows you to achieve masterpiece design results. Its advantages:

Resistance to mechanical damage.
Easy to clean.
Transparency. You can arrange a composition under such a floor, then fill everything with the composition. Details on how to fill such a liquid floor in this video:

Conclusion

How to fill the floor in an apartment? How to do this at home? How to achieve a perfectly smooth coating? These and related issues can be resolved by strictly observing necessary steps and work technologies.

Floors in ordinary apartment are not always distinguished by their smooth surface and beauty. The time comes when residents do not want to put up with this condition and think about repairs. It's not necessary to hire professional builders, because you can do everything yourself no less efficiently.

A perfectly flat floor - why is it needed?

Filling the floor in an apartment will create a perfectly level base for modern floor coverings. All of them are designed specifically for this surface quality, otherwise there will be no beauty or comfort, only money will be thrown away. Even the slightest irregularities lead after some time to the appearance of cracks and deformation. decorative material on the floor.

Even the most quality material will begin to lose its properties and change geometry. Gaps, bends, and dips form - you will have to spend money again, replacing the coating that has become unusable with a new one. And this can be repeated endlessly until an absolutely even base has been made. finishing coat. But you only need to properly fill the floor once, and you can forget about problems with the floor for many decades.

In general, floor filling is required in mandatory perform in two cases. The first is when the flooring needs to be replaced. It doesn’t matter what you use – laminate, parquet, linoleum – whatever, but a flat base is the key to its long service life. And the second case is when you are going to install a heated floor system or insulate it in another way.

Mortars for perfect pouring - building mixtures or concrete?

You should start pouring the floor in an apartment not by thinking about how to do it, but by deciding what to fill it with. There are quite a lot of materials, and it is important to choose the one that is most suitable. There are enough factors influencing the choice: the price of the material, the operating conditions of the floor, the finishing coating. By the way, the use of some innovative compositions makes it possible to create such beautiful quality surfaces, that you can do without a topcoat.

The traditional and cheapest material has been and remains concrete. The preference for concrete is explained not only by its low cost, but also by its good mechanical properties. It is resistant to wear and is difficult to damage, even subjected to strong mechanical stress. The components of concrete are of natural origin, so it is environmentally friendly. He is not afraid of moisture, heat, frost. Quick hardening makes it easier to work with. A significant disadvantage is that concrete floors are cold; a warm coating is required in residential areas.

Two technologies will help make a concrete floor warmer. The first is to use expanded clay. A heat-insulating cushion is made from it, which is filled with concrete on top. All the advantages of a concrete floor are preserved, and it itself becomes much warmer. The second way to make a warm cement floor is to use cement-sand mortar. Sand, unlike expanded clay, is not laid separately, but mixed with cement. The screed is warmer than concrete, but hardens for a long time.

Makes it easier to fill the floor construction compounds, sold in stores ready to eat. To prepare them for pouring, you do not need a concrete mixer; it is enough to have a drill mixer. You don’t have to worry about the ratio of components; you just need to mix it with water. They are used for the subfloor and for the finishing layer. Unlike cement-sand mixtures, their thickness without loss of strength is not 30–60 mm, but only 5–10 mm, and 0.5 mm is sufficient for a finishing surface. The composition of the mixtures includes modifiers to impart plasticity, as well as various fillers that improve quality.

The easiest material to use are. They are simply poured onto the prepared base and form an exceptionally even layer. They are produced on the basis of cement with modifiers and mineral fillers, and are mainly used under tile coverings. Polymer self-leveling floors are environmentally friendly, resistant to mechanical damage, fire and water, and easy to clean. Wide range available color solutions, you can apply a drawing. An excellent material for finished floors.

Compliance with technology is the key to a high-quality surface

The filling of the floor in the apartment is carried out upon completion of the main repair work on the walls, ceiling, and communications. After pouring, the floor covering is laid and decorative finishing walls and ceiling. The floors are poured separately in each room, which makes the job easier. When working, you should adhere to the required technology, then the result will not disappoint.

You need to select a tool:

and two-meter construction;
10m tape measure;
spatulas of various lengths;
rollers different sizes, including needle-shaped;
drill with mixer attachment;
beacons.

We follow the sequence of work:

1. Prepare the base: remove the old coating, remove dust and dirt. Treat with a degreasing solvent.
2. We carry out waterproofing. We fill the existing cracks with hermetic compounds and pre-prime them for good adhesion. For waterproofing, traditional roll materials are used: polyethylene film, roofing felt, as well as modern ones.
3. Setting the level. The floor height must be level throughout the entire area. By using building level We put marks on the walls.
4. Laying the beacons. They are attached to the base with plaster, aligned in all directions according to the marks on the walls.
5. Do the filling. Application various materials introduces some features into the technology, which will be discussed below.

If all technological processes done correctly, with proper patience and accuracy, the poured floor will turn out smooth, strong and beautiful.

Preparing the base - leveling and waterproofing

After dismantling the old floor (you should also remove the baseboards and doors), we begin cleaning the base. We use brushes, a scraper, and a vacuum cleaner. We completely remove all crumbling substances, glue residues, and dust. After cleaning, we degrease using a solvent or ordinary soapy water. We putty thin layer existing cracks and crevices. For puttying we use solutions with glue or resin.

For better adhesion, coat the base with a primer. IN small spaces this can be done with a brush, or with a roller for a larger area. If you plan to install a floor with cement-sand pouring, we use any universal primer; for mixtures and poured floors, you should select a special primer. On a porous and dry surface, apply a second layer of primer, but first let the previous one dry.

If we level the floor surface using several layers, before pouring each next one we prime the previous one.

If the base has large gaps, be sure to carry out waterproofing. Depending on the content of the main water-repellent component, waterproofing can be polymer, bitumen or with mineral components. They are produced in different ways:

1. Rolled - the usual polyethylene film and roofing felt. Modern polymer membranes, consisting of several layers, have not only water-repellent, but also heat-insulating properties.
2. Mastics – plastic compositions made of resins, polymers, liquid rubber. The mastic layer has excellent water resistance.
3. Liquid – penetrate deep into pores and have varying degrees of viscosity. A thin water-repellent film is formed.
4. Dry - they are a powder that is diluted with water. Contains binders and plasticizers.

Should not be used for roll waterproofing. It does not adhere well to it, and over time cracks appear on its surface.

Let's install beacons - the process will be easier

First, we apply marks on all walls using a hydraulic level or, if available, a laser at a height of about a meter. We measure the distance from them to the floor. Need to find a place with shortest distance, which is the highest point. This is where the fill layer will be the thinnest. We evaluate the difference in the distance from the marks to the floor. If the difference is more than 40 mm, the floor should be leveled.

We use a starting leveler, choosing it according to the required thickness of the fill. If the differences are significant, you will have to fill it several times. To fill a thick layer, we use solutions with a low weight. Cement-sand and others based on sand are not suitable; we use those based on expanded clay.

We continue to mark up. We put marks on the walls along the perimeter, which should be placed at the same height as the highest point. We connect these marks by drawing solid lines with a pencil. They serve as landmarks along which we install beacons. Aluminum can be used as them. T-profile. We place the lighthouses on gypsum or sand-cement mortar. If necessary, level it by placing pieces of broken brick. We check the correct installation with a level, not only along the beacons, but also across them. Further work carry out after the solution has dried.

Getting ready to pour - mix the solution according to a simple recipe

Large volumes are best filled with concrete or cement-sand mixture. If you need to raise floors up to 5 cm, it is better to use concrete. A perfectly even layer is unlikely to be achieved; you will need - special compounds. If there is a good, dense base, you can use not concrete, but cement-sand mixture. To prevent cracks from appearing on a cement-sand floor, we add fibrin, a fibrous material, to the mixture. A plastic or metal mesh will also strengthen the screed.

Solutions for cement based You can buy them ready-made, or you can cook them yourself. Perlite is used as a filler for concrete. To prepare it, dry mix 4 parts perlite, 2 parts sand and 1 cement. Add water and knead until plastic. A mixture of cement and sand is prepared as follows: mix 3 parts sand with one part cement, add water and mix well again. The concrete layer will become smoother if you add polypropylene fiber to it - 50 g per 100 kg of concrete.

Store-bought solutions are very easy to prepare; you just need to follow the instructions. Filling with any materials is best done together. The fact is that they set quickly enough, and delay can lead to the fact that the cement mortar cannot be leveled. Knead in small portions so that it does not lose its plasticity while we work with it. A separate room should be filled over the course of one day so that the filling is uniform.

For pouring, a solid and dense base is required - a pillow. To make a warm floor, expanded clay is used, which is filled and leveled, and concrete is poured on top. It is possible to use crushed stone, gravel, coarse sand. But their heavy weight should be taken into account, so use is only possible on the ground floor without basement. If you need to raise the floor a lot, it is better to make a thick pad rather than lift it with concrete.

Filling with various solutions - technology features

We start filling from the far corner. Pour the mixture between the beacons and level with a rule or spatula, distributing it evenly. We go over the surface with a needle roller to remove air from the solution, which leads to the formation of voids. After this, we finally level the screed. Having used one portion of the solution, mix the second and repeat the procedure until we have filled the entire room.

Ready-made self-leveling compounds of a more liquid consistency. They spread absolutely smoothly on their own. . The sandy one sets within an hour, but it is not yet strong. For concrete it will take about a month until it finally hardens, for cement-sand mortar – two days. All this time, the concrete should be looked after - protected from sun rays, temperature changes, drafts. To prevent cracks from appearing, cover with film or moisten periodically.

If cracks or irregularities do appear on the surface, finishing We use ready-made self-filling mixtures. Cracks, as well as places where beacons were removed, if used wooden slats, seal with a mixture similar to that used earlier. To prepare a solution from dry powders, carefully monitor the amount of water. If you add more, the mixture will not harden. Pour the mixture over the surface and wait for it to dry completely.

Installing a flat floor in an apartment is not a complicated process at all. Compliance with technology, correct selection leveler, following the manufacturer’s recommendations will allow you to create a beautiful and even floor.

More recently, wooden floors in private housing construction were the best option sexual base. But with the advent of the “warm floor” heating system, the situation changed dramatically. It turned out that it was easier to fill concrete base, install an electric or water version of a heated floor in it, and you can reap the fruits of your labor. Firstly, a concrete floor is much stronger than a wooden one. Secondly, with him less problems when it comes to device and repair. True, it belongs to the category of cold bases, but the heated floor system put everything in its place. Concrete covering in the kitchen, bathroom and toilet - required condition Today. But developers also use it in residential premises. So the question of how to properly pour concrete floors is very relevant today, so we will analyze it in detail.

Let's start with the fact that pouring a concrete floor is carried out using two technologies. They differ from each other in the base on which the concrete solution is poured. Usually this is soil or concrete slab ceilings Floors are made on the ground only on the first floor, and the slab can be installed at any height.

Concrete floor slab is a ready-made solid foundation, which can withstand heavy loads. She has no problems with strength. But they exist with the evenness of such a base, which has to be brought to an ideal state before laying the floor covering.

Let's look at both options.

How to pour a concrete floor over the ground

Typically, this stage of construction of a private house begins after pouring the foundation, raising the walls and installing the roof. We draw your attention to the fact that such a floor can only be erected in a house where there is no basement. The first step is to remove the soft and loose soil layer from the ground, on which no structure can stand for long. Excavation- it’s a labor-intensive task, so it will take 2-3 days, and nothing will help except shovels. How deep should the pit be dug? 40–50 centimeters, but not deeper. You will immediately know that you have reached the desired level, because the soil will become dense and hard.

There is no need to compact the bottom of the pit, but it is worth leveling. Then you need to decide zero level, along which the concrete solution will be poured. The easiest way is to install a laser level in the middle of the room at the bottom of the pit and set the contour along the base of the foundation. For convenience, outline this outline with chalk.

Then you need to backfill the pit with two building materials- sand and crushed stone. First, sand is poured in a layer of 15 centimeters, it must be leveled and compacted using water. Then the same layer is filled with crushed stone and compacted. The resulting cushion is necessary in order to properly pour the concrete floor on the ground. Now let’s move on to a very important issue, which concerns the comfort of living in a private home and saving money. Today, the requirements for thermal insulation of all building elements without exception are given Special attention. And the floor is no exception, since it is through it that up to 30% of the heat escapes.

This means you will have to insulate it. To do this, it is better to use bulk insulation, for example, expanded clay or fine perlite river sand. But before filling them in, it is recommended to lay a waterproofing layer on the crushed stone layer. roll material. It can be roofing felt, roofing felt or thick polyethylene film.

Installation of beacons

There are several conditions that must be observed when installing waterproofing:

The crushed stone backfill must be done so that the sharp edges of the stones do not cut the waterproofing material. Therefore, it is recommended to make a small layer of sand on top of the crushed stone.
Stripes waterproofing material overlapped at least 10 centimeters relative to the edges. The joint of the strips must be covered with construction tape to ensure complete sealing of the surface.
The waterproofing layer should also cover the vertical surfaces of the foundation plinth, thereby creating a barrier between the concrete floor and the foundation so that there is no pressure on one another.

After installing the waterproofing, the insulation is backfilled. For this you can use not only bulk materials, but also tile and roll. Expanded clay or perlite - optimal and very convenient option. Here it is important to distribute it evenly over the entire area of the future floor. By the way, the thickness of the backfill can vary from 10 to 15 centimeters, which depends on the depth of the pit. Now you can upload concrete screed, but you will first have to install a reinforcing frame made of metal reinforcement.

Please note that the reinforcement frame must be located in the body of the screed, so it will have to be raised slightly. To do this, they used to use improvised materials, for example, brick. Today, manufacturers offer ready-made stands made of metal or plastic. This is very convenient because some designs have bolted alignment mechanisms.

So, everything is ready, and you can pour the screed. If the volume concrete works large enough, we recommend purchasing ready-mixed concrete right at the factory, from where it will be delivered to you in a special mixer by car. If the volume is small, then you can prepare the solution yourself. However, you can’t do it without an ordinary concrete mixer, so rent one - such a service is offered on the market today.

Preparing the solution

You can stir the solution using a drill and a special attachment.

To prepare concrete, you need to purchase cement grade M400 or M500. Pour it into the drum of a concrete mixer, add water and start stirring until cement laitance forms on the surface of the solution. Now add sand and crushed stone in small portions. Let the drum rotate until the solution turns into a homogeneous mass. Then dump it directly on the floor and level it over the entire area.

Eat classic recipe concrete mortar:

One volume of cement.
Three volumes of sand.
Four volumes of crushed stone.
Half a volume of water.

If you purchased cement of a lower grade, you will have to increase its volume while reducing the content of fillers. So the cost of the concrete solution will be the same even if you change the ingredients.

Leveling a concrete floor

When leveling the floor, it is important to ensure that it is horizontal.

So, the concrete floor is poured. But this is not enough to lay the flooring well. After all, such a floor is not considered level and requires additional leveling with a thin screed. To do this, you can use a standard screed mortar based on cement and sand, or fill the base with a self-leveling floor based on cement or polymer.

If you prefer the first option, then you need to install guide elements on the floor base - special beacons made of aluminum or galvanized steel. They are attached to the floor with plaster slides and must be aligned horizontally in the same plane. After which the screed is poured, leveling the solution according to the rule established for lighthouses. After the solution has hardened, which usually takes one day, the guides are dismantled and their installation sites are sealed with the same concrete mortar. At this point, the work on creating a concrete floor poured over the ground is considered completed.

There are some restrictions that do not allow pouring the floor on the ground:

Proximity of level groundwater. If their depth is less than 4 meters, then it is better to give preference to another flooring technology in a private house.
If the soil is mobile, this is also a serious limitation.
You can use this option for installing a concrete floor only in a house that will be heated in winter. If this is not adhered to, the floor will freeze, which will lead to cracks and a broken base.

How to properly build a floor on a floor slab

Expanded clay screed

A concrete hollow-core floor slab is a solid floor base that will still have to be leveled. This can only be done with a screed. let `s talk about cement-sand screed and about the liquid analogue.

The technology for pouring a regular screed was described above, so we will not consider it in detail, but will only make some additions. In any case, the slab will have to be insulated. To do this, the concrete base is covered with waterproofing, then insulation is laid over it, insulation is poured or poured, a reinforced frame is installed, and a screed is made along the beacons. This is exactly what a multi-layer cake should look like. You should not throw out a single layer from its structure - everything will immediately lose its meaning.

The self-leveling floor is poured using a special technology. To do this, first of all, beacons are installed on the floor in the form of self-tapping screws, which are screwed into dowels in the holes in the floor. The distance between them is 1 meter. They are aligned along the contour that was previously applied to the walls laser level. Instead of self-tapping screws, you can use special beacons on legs, which are called “pin” - they are easier to dismantle. Next stage- preparation of the base. Here you will have to repair all defects with a solution and treat the surface with a primer. At the same time, choose low-strength solutions. It is better to prime the floor in 2 layers and sprinkle the last layer with sand at the rate of 150 g per square meter.

Now the mixture is prepared, for which the material is poured into a container with water, which is kneaded until a homogeneous mass is formed. The proportional ratio of the mixture to water is determined by the instructions that you will find on the package. Now you can safely upload ready solution and distribute it over the area. And although the mixture is self-leveling, it still needs help, so use special tool in the form of a brush with a long handle. When one area is completely filled, it will need to be finished by rolling it with a needle roller to squeeze out the remaining air from the body of the screed. Please note that this work is best done by two people - one prepares the mixture, and the second pours it on the floor. The fact is that self-leveling floors harden quickly, so it is not recommended to prepare a large volume at a time.

Floor insulation

If the area of the room is large enough, then it must be divided into several sections by laying metal guides. Let's return to the lighthouses. They will definitely need to be dismantled. The easiest way is with pin beacons, which are simply removed immediately after pouring. The screws will have to be unscrewed, and the places where they are attached will have to be filled with the mixture.

And one more point that must be paid attention to. This is insulation of the joints of walls and floors. It will be necessary to treat the joints with epoxy mortar, which is poured into grooves previously made on the wall parallel to the floor base. The groove size is 5 millimeters in depth and width. After which a damper tape is laid along the joint.

Conclusion on the topic

Here are two technologies that are used to fill the floor in a private home. This process, of course, is not easy, but if you take into account all the nuances that we told you about, the result should please you. So take them into account and get to work.

Ruslan Vasiliev