In order to keep the apartment warm and comfortable during the cold season, it is necessary to install the batteries efficiently. An important stage is correct connection all elements. The norms and basic rules are prescribed in the legislation, and it would be useful to familiarize yourself with them. If you have the desire and opportunity, you can do the installation yourself.
Features and types of heating systems
How warm the apartment will be depends on what type of heating system is installed in the room.
They can be divided into 3 main types according to the connection diagram:
- single-pipe;
- two-pipe;
- collector
As for the one-pipe system, in this case the coolant flows through one pipe to all batteries, and ultimately returns through it after it has cooled. This option is the easiest to install, and for this reason it is used in all multi-storey buildings. However, there are also disadvantages, in particular, when moving to other radiators, the coolant cools down more and more, and accordingly, less heat enters the room. In addition, you cannot disconnect only one battery for repairs; in this case, you will have to shut off the entire riser.
At two-pipe system The coolant flows through one pipe, but separately to all batteries. In this situation, all radiators are heated evenly, and the cooled water goes through a separate pipe into the boiler, where it is heated again. If replacement is necessary, there is no need to disconnect the riser; it is enough to shut off only one battery, which simplifies the work compared to the previous option.
The system using a collector is used mainly in cottages and is much more complex. IN in this case go to each radiator individual pipes. System installation on our own is impossible, the work of specialists is required.
The batteries themselves, depending on the material of manufacture, can be:
- bimetallic;
- aluminum;
- cast iron;
- steel.
Bimetallic include elements made from various metals, and are often used in apartments. They have good heat transfer, are easy to install, but at the same time have quite high price. Working pressure – 35 atm.
Aluminum batteries also do not create installation problems and dissipate heat well. Due to pressure up to 18 atm, they are often installed in multi-storey buildings. Radiators are resistant to corrosion, but they cannot be installed with copper pipes, as the bases may react, leading to the destruction of both elements.
Cast iron batteries are most often used in old housing stock, where there are few floors, since their pressure reaches only 12 atm. They are installed quite rarely in apartments. Radiators have significant weight, which creates difficulties during installation; in addition, they heat up and cool down for a long time. Among the advantages are their strength and long service life.
Steel radiators are reasonably priced and suitable for apartment buildings. Among the disadvantages, consumers note a short service life - about 15-20 years. And also in this case there is no possibility to expand additional sections. Easy to install and can be installed with any pipes.
Depending on the material of manufacture, differences appear in the installation process of radiators. Due to their strength, cast iron heating elements are more resistant to mechanical stress; others require careful handling. Installation should be carried out exclusively on walls made of brick and concrete; if there is a plasterboard wall nearby, a special stand is required.
In modern models it is necessary to provide a Mayevsky tap.
Connection methods
SNiP prescribes the basic rules for installing heating radiators. The ability of the radiator to withstand pressure is important. The manufacturing material should not react with the pipes that are supplied to the product in order to avoid corrosion processes. The battery should be placed 10 centimeters below the protruding part of the window sill to release heat flow.
The distance between the floor and the bottom of the radiator should be more than 10 and less than 15 centimeters. This is a fundamental issue, otherwise the processes of uniform heat transfer will be disrupted. All sections must be connected evenly and have no significant differences in height.
In order for heat transfer to occur most efficiently, it is important to place the heating radiator correctly. Experts recommend placing it under windows in order to minimize heat loss through these areas. If there is an external cold wall, it is recommended to place additional devices on it.
In general, batteries in an apartment can be located in several ways:
- lateral location;
- lower;
- diagonal;
- sequential.
The most popular is the side arrangement of batteries. It is characterized by high heat transfer. The pipe through which it's hot water is introduced into the upper pipe, and discharge occurs from the lower one. In the case of bottom placement, both pipes are located at the bottom. The diagram is relevant if the pipes are located in the floor or under the baseboard.
Diagonal is used when the battery has a large number of sections, 12 or more. The coolant enters through the top pipe and exits from the bottom. Sequential is relevant when plumbing system has enough pressure to hot water passed through all batteries.
In cases where it is necessary to install an additional radiator, the coolant must first be removed from the system. After securing the brackets, the radiator is attached, the connections are secured with a special key. You need to install a Mayevsky tap on the free hole, and close all the others with a plug. Next, you should attach the battery itself and carefully align it. After this, the remaining elements are brought in and everything is connected into a single system, which must be absolutely sealed.
Substitution rules
There are times when radiators need replacement.
This can happen in two situations:
- battery failure;
- replacing old radiators with new ones.
In the event of a breakdown, it is necessary to notify the Housing Office and the Department of Economic Protection. Representatives of these organizations are required to visit the apartment, conduct an inspection and confirm that it is impossible to restore the old radiator and it needs to be replaced.
It may happen that during repairs or for other reasons, residents decided to replace old heating radiators with more modern ones. modern models. In this case, the owner must be ready to undergo approval measures. Without agreement management company and documents confirming this fact, batteries cannot be replaced.
Representatives of the above organization must take part in the work process, otherwise such actions threaten a number of problems.
IN First of all, the parameters of the heating system of the whole house may change. Moreover, in order to install new radiator, it is necessary to block the entire riser, and this action can only be done by employees of the management company. If you do this yourself, the violator may face a considerable fine. But you also need to know temperature regime, which will directly affect how much heat the device will give off, and, accordingly, the favorable microclimate in the room.
After completing all the documents, you can purchase necessary elements and devices. Next, the installation date is agreed upon, in accordance with which the work is carried out. Our specialists will help you properly connect, configure and run your heating system.
Preparatory work
Before starting work on installing heating devices, you need to clarify the type of wiring by which the system is organized. This determines which parts and in what quantities will be required during the installation process. The work site should be prepared, as well as the necessary tools.
The first thing to start with is blocking the riser. If there are old batteries, they need to be disconnected, drained of all water, and then disconnected from the heating system.
If necessary, you should use a pump, which can be used to remove as much liquid as possible from the radiator.
When the coolant is removed, you should determine the places where the heating element will be attached. Next, the brackets are installed. You will need 2 or 3 of them to secure the top of the battery, as well as a pair to hold the bottom. The location of the brackets must be checked using a special level. After this, the site can be considered ready for work.
Installation
After preparatory work completed, you can start direct installation heating devices that need to be placed on brackets. If the installation of the brackets is done correctly, the rear wall of the radiator will fit closely to the supports and will be securely fixed to them. When installing the battery itself, you need to take into account that it is necessary to withstand a slight slope, which will be about 3 millimeters per 1 meter heating device.
The batteries are installed, pipes and fittings are connected to them, and all this is carefully secured. How well the work is carried out will determine how tight the system will be. Next, you can open the riser and fill it with water. This will allow you to check how tight the connections are.
When installing heating devices with your own hands, you need to pay attention Special attention installation of shut-off and control elements. The installation of a Mayevsky tap is mandatory, because it is he who will subsequently play the main role in bleeding air at the beginning of the heating season. The element should be located near the highest point.
When working with a one-pipe system, it is necessary to install a bypass, which has a valve, in contrast to a two-pipe system, when the connection occurs only with the discharge, which also has a valve. The bends are attached to the pipes using torque wrenches. Such keys are not included in the kit; when installing a radiator, specialists bring this tool with them. If the work is carried out independently, you will need to buy keys, since the work cannot be completed without them. This element ensures reliable tightening of fasteners.
Home / Radiators / How to install bimetallic radiator DIY heating
Every house or apartment needs heating. Sometimes the main heating element becomes outdated or deteriorates, and you have to replace it with a new one. The choice of heating equipment must be approached responsibly. Basically, modern radiators are made of materials such as aluminum and steel. Bimetallic radiators contain both metals. How to install a bimetallic radiator with your own hands? It’s not difficult, the main thing is to carefully follow all the instructions.
Advantages of bimetallic radiators
Bimetallic radiators are in great demand. They successfully replace old cast iron batteries and have attractive design and are economical. True, they are more expensive than aluminum batteries.
Bimetallic heating radiator
The peculiarity of this type of battery is the presence of two different metals in its composition. The core is made of steel (copper), and the body is made of aluminum.
The advantages of bimetallic radiators include:
- durability (can last more than 20 years);
- ability to withstand high pressure hot water (up to 30 atmospheres);
- strength, resistance to various mechanical influences (impacts, scratches);
- small center distance, which manifests itself in more efficient heating rooms:
- corrosion resistance;
- high heat transfer;
- stylish appearance.
Due to their advantages, bimetallic batteries are used both in private homes and in apartment buildings. central heating.
Some bimetallic radiators differ in price. In cheap models, when both metals are heated at the same time, noise occurs due to the fact that they expand differently. Expensive models are equipped with special polymer coating, which muffles this sound.
When purchasing a radiator, you will have to take into account the diameter of the supply pipes that will be connected to it.
Calculation of the number of required sections
In order for the radiator to fully warm the room in which it is installed and not to consume excessive amounts of thermal energy, it is necessary to calculate the optimal number of sections. To do this, you need to know the power of the device (it is indicated in its technical data sheet) and the area of the room (calculated by multiplying the length by its width).
Calculation of house area
The power of each battery section is measured in watts. In accordance with building codes, per 1 sq.m. you need 100 W of heating device power. This figure (100W) is divided by the power of one battery section. The resulting value is multiplied by the area of the room.
This is what the formula looks like:
- S*100/P
- S is the area of the room;
- P – power of one section.
For example, the parameters of a room are 5x4 meters. Its area is 20 sq.m. Let one battery section have a power of 250 W. It turns out: 20*100/250=8
This means that to heat this room you will need a battery with 8 sections. If the number is not a whole number (for example, 8.5), then it is necessary to round it to a larger value (to 9).
8 section battery
But in an apartment with uninsulated walls or ventilated window openings, the number of sections may not be enough for quality heating.
If more than 10 sections are needed to heat a room, it is recommended not to combine them into one radiator, but to install two separate batteries. This will make heating the room more efficient.
Two batteries of 5 sections
Basic rules for installing batteries
Before you learn how to properly install a bimetallic heating radiator, you need to learn about important conditions, which are taken into account during its installation. Regardless of the type of battery, in order to ensure normal heat exchange and air circulation in the room, you should adhere to the following rules:
- The radiator should be located under window opening in the center. Its top grille should be located at a distance of 5-10 cm from the window sill.
- A distance of 8-10 cm must be maintained between the bottom of the heating element and the floor.
- The distance between the radiator and the wall should be 2-5 cm.
Distance between wall and radiator
All this will have to be taken into account not only when installing the battery, but also when purchasing it, since they come in different heights.
If reflective insulation is installed on the wall behind the radiator, the battery mounts that come with it will likely be short. You will need to purchase longer clamps.
The battery is installed clearly in a horizontal position. It is recommended to install batteries in the same place in each room of the house (apartment).
Battery installation
Installing a bimetallic radiator yourself
How to install a bimetallic radiator? Each battery comes with instructions from the manufacturer. Its installation must be carried out in accordance with these instructions.
The most reliable option is to entrust the installation of the battery to a qualified specialist, checking that he has a license for this type of work. If you wish, you can install the radiator yourself. To do this, you must follow the step-by-step instructions.
Battery installation by a technician
Before installation, the radiator is flushed. Do not use alkaline products or abrasive materials. They can damage the pipe surface and cause fluid to leak.
Preparatory stage
The battery should be installed in summer time of the year. Before starting work, you should make sure that there is no liquid in the pipes, or shut off its flow at the inlet and outlet of the heating system.
Battery installation in summer
First you need to dismantle the old radiator and prepare a place for installing a new one.
Be sure to check the completeness of the battery. Usually it is purchased in an already assembled state, but if this is not the case, then you need to assemble it yourself. Assembly takes place in accordance with the developer's instructions using a special radiator key.
Attention! Bimetallic radiators use both left-handed and right-handed threads.
Left-handed and right-handed thread
To prevent contamination of the valve intended for air outlet, a filter is placed on the supply pipe.
Radiator installation
The battery is installed according to next plan:
- Marking on the wall where to attach the brackets. They should be located between the battery sections.
- Fastening the brackets. The mounting method depends on the material of the wall surface on which the battery is installed. On a wall made of brick or reinforced concrete, the brackets are fastened with dowels or fixed cement mortar, and on a plasterboard surface - with double-sided fastening.
- Installing the radiator on fixed brackets. The correctness of its position is checked using building level.
- Connecting the battery to the pipes.
- Installation of a tap or thermostatic valve.
- Installation of an air valve (an automatic one is recommended, for example, a Mayevsky valve) in the upper part of the heating device.
Very important! The air valve is installed in mandatory, as gas formation occurs inside the battery.
Air valve for battery
Upon completion of installation, turn on the system. All taps open smoothly. Opening the valves too quickly can lead to hydrodynamic shock.
After opening the taps, you need to bleed the air through the Mayevsky tap. If you have to bleed air too often, this may indicate a malfunction - a leak in the battery or heating boiler.
If you cover the heating radiator with any decorative element– a screen, screen, curtain or box, this will lead to a decrease in heat transfer. And if sensors are installed on the battery that automatically regulate the heating strength, then they will respond to changes in temperature not in the room itself, but under the screen.
Temperature sensors for batteries
When operating the heating system, you must follow the following rules:
- Cleaning the battery twice a year - before and after the end of the heating season.
- You can completely drain the heating system for a maximum of 14 days.
- It is forbidden to suddenly open the shut-off valves.
- Do not paint the hole from which air is escaping.
Cleaning the Battery
Knowing how to install a bimetallic heating radiator with your own hands, you can save on paying for the services of a specialist. The main thing is to adhere to the rules for installing batteries and the developer’s instructions. If the battery is installed correctly and all necessary conditions are met during its operation, it will last a long time.
Photo gallery (13 photos)
gopb.ru
DIY installation of bimetallic heating radiators
Bimetallic radiators are rapidly gaining popularity among buyers. In terms of consumer characteristics, they are in many ways superior to cast iron ones, and are approximately on the same level as aluminum batteries. Wherein aluminum radiators not resistant to pressure changes in apartment buildings, and therefore for an apartment bimetallic devices are best choice. This article is devoted to installing bimetallic heating radiators with your own hands.
Bimetallic radiators are superior in performance to cast iron ones, and are approximately on the same level as aluminum batteries
Bimetallic batteries have a number of important advantages:
- long service life - approximately two decades;
- high level of heat transfer;
- resistance to hydrodynamic and mechanical influences;
- attractive appearance;
- anti-corrosion resistance;
- quick response if it is necessary to change the temperature, achieved through the use of channels with a small diameter.
The main disadvantage of bimetal is high price devices.
Installing a radiator with your own hands is quite possible, but it will require an understanding of their design features, and preferably some practical skills.
A bimetal heater includes two main elements: an aluminum body and a steel (or copper) core.
There are two types of radiators:
- completely bimetallic devices, where the core is pipes for transferring coolant that does not come into contact with the body material;
- partially bimetallic devices, where the internal channels are equipped with plates of a different metal.
Fully bimetallic batteries are more durable in relation to both mechanical and hydrodynamic influences, and, accordingly, more durable.
Calculation of the number of sections
To calculate the required number of sections, it is necessary to take into account a number of factors. First of all, you need to know the battery power and the area of the room. There are also more complex calculation methods that take into account additional parameters (for example, non-standard ceiling heights, the number of windows and doors, the number external walls etc.).
Before installing the radiator, you need to calculate the number of sections
The simplest formula for calculating the number of sections looks like this:
number of sections = room area x 100/battery power.
Standard height The ceiling is considered to be 2 meters 70 centimeters.
If there is a 12 meter room and radiators with 180 watt sections, then the formula will look like this:
12 x 100/180 = 6.66.
We round the resulting value up and as a result we find out that 7 sections are needed to heat the room.
Installation of a bimetallic battery
Do-it-yourself installation of the heating device is carried out according to the instructions set out in the equipment passport.
Note! Installation of all components of the heating system is carried out in plastic packaging of the equipment and is not removed until the installation is completed.
Building regulations
Installation of bimetallic devices must be carried out in accordance with the instructions building codes and rules (SNiP). Specific requirements are set forth in Section 3.05.01-85.
Requirements for installing bimetallic radiators
At installation work You must adhere to the following parameters:
- The distance from the wall is 30-50 millimeters. If the device is too close to the wall, the back surface of the battery will not distribute properly thermal energy.
- Distances from the floor - 100 millimeters. If the radiator is installed lower, the efficiency of heat transfer will decrease, and the process of cleaning the floor under the radiator will be more difficult. Also, you should not place the radiator too high, since in this case the temperatures at the top and bottom of the room are too differentiated.
- The distance from the window sill is 80-120 millimeters. If you make the gap too small, the heat flow from the heating device will decrease.
Installation procedure
Installation work bimetallic batteries must be done in a certain sequence:
- mark places for installing brackets on the wall;
- We secure the brackets with dowels and cement mortar (if we are talking about reinforced concrete or brick wall) or double-sided fastening (if it is plasterboard partition);
- We place the battery strictly horizontally on the already installed brackets;
- connect the radiator to the pipes, install a faucet or thermostatic valve;
- We put the air valve at the top of the radiator.
Note! An air valve (preferably an automatic one) is required to be installed, since a small formation of gases occurs inside the device.
- Before starting work, you need to shut off the flow of coolant in the heating system at the inlet and outlet or make sure that there is no liquid in the pipeline.
- Even before installation, you need to check that the radiator is complete. It must be assembled. If this is not the case, take a radiator key and assemble the battery according to the manufacturer's instructions.
- The structure must be absolutely sealed, so abrasive materials cannot be used during assembly, as they destroy the material of the device.
- When tightening fasteners, do not forget that bimetallic devices use both left-handed and right-handed threads.
- When connecting sanitary fittings, it is extremely important to choose the right material. Typically, flax is used together with a heat-resistant sealant, FUM tape (fluoroplastic sealing material) or Tangit threads.
- Before starting installation work, you need to carefully plan the connection diagram. Batteries can be connected diagonally, sideways or downwards. IN single pipe system It is rational to install a bypass, that is, a pipe that will allow the system to function normally when the batteries are connected in series.
- After installation is complete, the system is turned on. This must be done by smoothly opening all the valves that previously blocked the path of the coolant. Opening the taps too sharply leads to clogging of the internal pipe section or hydrodynamic shocks.
- After opening the valves, it is necessary to bleed off excess air through an air vent (for example, a Mayevsky valve).
Note! Do not cover batteries with screens or place them in wall niches. This will sharply reduce the heat transfer of the equipment.
Correctly installed bimetallic heating radiators are the key to their long and trouble-free operation. If you have any doubts about your ability to install them yourself, it is better to contact a specialist.
klivent.biz
Do-it-yourself installation of bimetallic radiators
Updating the heating system in both a private home and own apartment impossible without replacing old cast iron batteries with more practical and modern devices.
One of good decisions Do-it-yourself installation of bimetallic radiators is considered. Their neat appearance will fit into any interior, and their high heat transfer rates will bring a long-awaited atmosphere of comfort.
The design of such a heating system is quite simple: the design consists of the radiators themselves and adjacent steel pipes, the connection areas of which are processed by spot welding.
Installation of bimetallic heating radiators does not require much destruction and is carried out quite carefully.
Basic rules for installing bimetallic radiators in the house
Any inept intervention in the heating system can have a detrimental effect on its further work and quality of space heating.
Therefore, before performing the main stages of work, you need to familiarize yourself with a number of rules and adhere to them in the future.
What does a novice craftsman need to remember when he decides to install a bimetallic radiator with his own hands?
- The optimal distance from the floor to the bottom of the radiator is at least 60-70 mm and no more than 100-120 mm to maintain high level heat exchange;
- The upper part of the radiator should be located at a distance of 50-60 mm from the edge of the window sill, in order to improve convection and facilitate the installation of equipment;
- It is recommended to place the radiator in the center of the window;
- The equipment is installed in a strictly horizontal position;
- Heating elements should be installed at the same level within each room.
An installed bimetallic radiator must not be treated with metal coatings, since an additional layer of paint can disrupt the operation of the thermostat and reduce heat transfer rates by an average of 10%.
In addition, do not use abrasive substances to clean the device.
How to install a bimetallic radiator
Replacing old batteries with new bimetallic devices can be done on your own if you have sufficient knowledge for this work.
Installation of the heating system is carried out in several stages.
First, the technician must dismantle the old heating radiators and carefully prepare the work area: mark a place for installing a new heating device and drilling holes for the brackets.
The supporting part is fixed to the wall using dowels or sealed with cement mortar.
At this point, the installation of the bimetallic radiator is not yet completed. The equipment is equipped with shut-off valves and a jumper, and then the heating system pipelines are installed.
Each radiator is required to be equipped air valve. This part is necessary to remove excess air from the system.
During the process of filling the system with coolant, the stabilizing valve must be closed 2/3 to prevent water hammer.
Upon completion of installation of the bimetallic radiator, the first strength test of the structure is carried out. Do not forget to thoroughly clean the radiator and remove any remaining debris and dirt from the body.
As you operate the system, you must also follow a number of rules and adhere to some recommendations:
- The radiator is cleaned 1-2 times a year - at the beginning and during the heating season;
- Complete draining of the coolant from the heating system is permissible only for a period of no more than 2 weeks;
- Sudden opening of shut-off valves is prohibited;
- It is not permissible to paint the air outlet hole;
- It is advisable to equip some heating systems with special pumps or closed expansion tanks.
High-quality work on installing bimetallic radiators with your own hands and successfully carried out tests will be the key to a long and reliable operation the entire heating system.
A successful example of installing bimetallic radiators can be clearly seen in the video.
In our country, the average outdoor temperature during the cold season does not exceed 8°C. Consequently, all residential premises in private and apartment buildings must be heated. In most regions heating season lasts about 150 days or more. Therefore, the heating system must be reliable and not pose a threat of a possible accident during frosts outside.
The most important element of supplying heat to rooms are heating devices, which, based on the type of material, are divided into:
- steel;
- cast iron;
- bimetallic;
- aluminum.
In addition, sometimes you can find heating convectors made of finned copper pipes, which are most often used for hidden installation in the floors.
Bimetallic battery design
As practice has shown recent years, from the listed series of radiators, the most effective and reliable are bimetallic models. They have a clear advantage over other materials, which are:
- high corrosion resistance;
- wide range of operating temperatures and pressures;
- simple ability to change the heat transfer of the device by changing the number of assembled sections;
- low inertia during heating and cooling;
- a small amount of coolant required for filling;
- low weight, facilitating installation;
- affordable for most people.
It should also be noted that bimetallic radiators are easy to install. Thanks to the presence of standard fasteners, this process will not cause structural damage and will ensure high-quality fixation of heating equipment.
The design of bimetallic batteries consists of a set of sections. IN assembled form such a package consists of two horizontal pipes connected by vertical hollow ribs through which the coolant circulates.
To increase the heat transfer of the heating device, outside surface ribs and pipes are increased due to additional planes. The sections are connected to each other using hollow nipples with double-sided threads, provided that a sealing gasket is installed.
Core. To protect against corrosion, the inner surface of the sections is coated protective layer from aluminum alloy. Outdoor metal surface painted using thermal application technology of polymer powder paints. This gives the products a beautiful appearance and ensures their durability.
Before installing a bimetallic heating radiator with your own hands, you need to purchase a set of 4 special plugs. Two of them have internal thread½ inch, the third should have no hole, and another one should have an air release device. When purchasing a kit, you should pay attention to the direction of the threads - there should be two right and two left.
Calculation of the required number of sections
The number of sections of heating devices is determined depending on the heat losses through the building envelope. An accurate calculation can only be performed by a specialist with the appropriate education.
But enlarged standard indicators for standard buildings that accept required consumption heat based on 1 kW of thermal energy per 10 m 2 room. This figure provides a guaranteed reserve power reserve of the device by 10-15%.
The heat output of sections of bimetallic radiators in Watts is indicated in the product passport, which is included in each package. Therefore, to determine the number of sections required to heat a room, it is necessary to area in m2 multiplied by 100 and divided by the heat transfer of one section in W.
The resulting result is rounded up to the nearest whole number. A rough check is made from the condition that on average one section heats 1.2-1.4 m2. Performing calculations allows you to avoid purchasing unnecessary items and save money.
Choosing a location for installing batteries
When installing heating systems, at the first stage, heating devices are installed, equipped with shut-off and control valves, and after that the laying of pipes begins. Any battery can be installed temporarily and removed from its mounts while cutting the groove or performing other work.
Therefore, it is recommended to connect bimetallic heating radiators without removing the packaging polyethylene film, or by wrapping it yourself to protect it from dust, dirt and possible damage. The film can only be removed when conducting thermal tests of the heating system.
The basic requirements for installing sectional batteries are given by the manufacturer in the technical data sheet of each model. However, there are also common prerequisites installation of bimetallic heating radiators:
- the middle of the radiator must coincide with the center of the window under which it is installed;
- the upper plane of the device must be positioned strictly horizontally;
- all batteries in the room must be at the same height;
- the distance from the back wall of the sections to the wall is not less than 30 mm and not more than 50 mm;
- the distance from the floor and window sill to the heating device should not be less than 100 mm.
The last condition does not define the high setting correctly. If you raise the bottom of the radiator to a height of more than 150 mm, then the possibility of insufficient heating of the lower space of the room is likely.
Self-installation of sectional heating batteries
Before installing the radiator, the surface of the wall that will be behind it must be plastered and puttied. After this, it is recommended to stick a sheet of foil insulation on it, corresponding to the size of the heating device.
During runtime finishing, the reflective surface can be covered with wallpaper, painted or tiled - the foil will still ensure the reflection of heat towards the living space.
Necessary tools and additional materials
To perform installation work on installing sectional bimetallic heating radiators, you must prepare:
- adjustable wrench;
- hammer drill or impact drill;
- Popov pipe wrench (ass);
- building level;
- tape measure and pencil;
- radiator wrench with 24 mm end blade;
- a set of end plugs with a plug and a Mayevsky tap;
- ball valve ½ inch with detachable connection, external and internal threads;
- faucet regulator for thermal head;
- radiator gaskets;
- combed flax (tow);
- plumbing silicone or investment paste.
Depending on the installation method, fastening elements can be wall-mounted or floor-mounted. In the first case, you need 4 of them, in the second - 2.
Repacking radiator sections
Before installing the battery in place, it is necessary to assemble the device with the estimated number of sections. The factory equipment includes sets of 10 elements. Therefore, in most cases, you will have to separate or add a few pieces. This is done using a special radiator key, the length of which is at least 8 sections, and the width of the end blade is 24 mm.
Look at the thread direction on one of the radiator end holes. Insert the key inside so that the key blade is in the joint area between the sections to be separated. Turn the key in the opposite direction from the thread direction. The moment the elements separate is usually accompanied by a click.
Adding the removed sections to another set is done in the reverse order.
Options for connecting the heating device to the distribution pipelines
After repacking is completed, plugs, shut-off valves and an air release valve are installed on the battery. The method of connecting a bimetallic heating radiator in an apartment is determined by the type of piping system, which can be:
- saddle;
- diagonal;
- one-sided.
In the first case, shut-off valves are installed on both sides of the device, in the holes of the lower plugs, and the Mayevsky valve is installed in the upper one, further along the coolant flow. The name of the second piping option determines the installation of fittings in the upper and lower plugs located diagonally on the radiator.
A one-way connection scheme is used for single-pipe vertical risers of multi-storey buildings. In this case, the taps are mounted at the top and bottom on one side of the battery.
Installation of a bimetallic radiator on the wall
After repacking the sections and installing shut-off and control valves, you can begin installing the heating device in its intended place. In this case, the procedure for doing it yourself is as follows:
- measure the distance from the bottom edge of the section to the center of the upper nipple connection and add 100-120 millimeters to this value;
- make a mark on the wall at the height of the measurement taken;
- draw a horizontal line passing through the mark you made earlier;
- on this line draw the position of the middle of the window;
- take a measurement between the nipples of the penultimate sections of the radiator at the edges, divide the result by two and set aside horizontal line in both directions from the center of the battery;
- measure the distance;
- from the obtained marks, vertically downwards, set aside the distance corresponding to the measurement between the centers of the section nipples (usually 500 or 300 mm);
- drill 4 holes according to the marks obtained, insert into them plastic stoppers and screw in the hanging fasteners;
- hang the radiator on the installed supports.
After this, you need to measure the distance from the battery to the wall and check the horizontal position of the upper plane of the device with a level. If necessary, the fasteners should be unscrewed or tightened, and horizontal installation adjust by bending the installed supports up or down.
Floor installation of heating radiators
This type of installation of radiators is used in the absence of a strong load-bearing wall. This happens when designing window openings to the level of the floor, display railings or covering the surface with plasterboard slabs with a significant distance (more than 200 mm) from the main walls.
Floor mounts are a metal support structure in the shape of the letter “H” with a lower transverse bar for screwing to the surface. They are manufactured in two versions:
- from steel angle;
- from bent profile pipes.
The easiest way to install a heating device without fixing it to the wall is as follows:
- take 2 fasteners and simply put them on the radiator from below;
- place the device together with fasteners at its installation site;
- ask an assistant to hold the battery and make marks on the floor through the holes in the bottom bar;
- remove the fasteners, drill holes and screw the support to the floor using dowels.
It is admitted that floor installation radiators are less reliable than mounted ones. But there are options that this will be the only Possible Solution providing space heating. An alternative can only be heated floors.
Video on the topic
All modern radiators are designed in such a way that any owner can connect them. This process must be carried out in compliance with the requirements of SNIP.
Connection methods
According to SNIP, the installation of heating batteries may include the following connection methods:
- Lateral.
- Lower.
- Diagonal.
The first method is the most common. It involves connecting the inlet and outlet pipes to the same side of the radiator. The inlet pipe is connected to the fitting located at the top, and the outlet pipe is connected to the lower fitting.
This connection method requires a large center distance, that is, the distance between two fittings. If it is small, the sections at the other end of the battery will not heat up well. When installing a radiator with a large number of sections, in order to avoid the problem of poor heating of the last sections, you need to use a water flow extension.
The lower connection involves connecting the inlet pipe to the lower fitting located at one end of the radiator, and the outlet pipe to the lower fitting located at the opposite end.
There are radiators in which both fittings are located in the bottom and are vertical. In this case, always make the bottom connection. It is not recommended to do this, because heat transfer is reduced by 5-15%.
The diagonal method is the most advantageous type of connection. This installation of the heating battery allows for minimal losses. It involves connecting the inlet pipe to the fitting located at the top and connecting the outlet pipe to the fitting located on the lower contour of the other end.
The connection can also be:
- Consistent.
- Parallel.
In the first case, the batteries are connected so that the outlet pipe of one of them is the inlet pipe for the other. As a result, a closed system is formed, and in the absence of a bypass, repairing one of the radiators will require shutting down the entire system. is a tube that connects the inlet and outlet pipes near each radiator. When water is supplied to the working battery, the bypass does not create any obstacles. If it is necessary to repair any radiator, they shut off the shut-off valves themselves and the water moves through the bypass.
Read also: Calculation of heating radiators
A parallel connection consists of diverting separate pipes for each heating device from the main pipe.
Connection diagram
Any connection method can be used in a one- and two-pipe heating system. 
In the first type, the batteries are installed so that they form a single chain through which water flows from top to bottom. It is not profitable to install such a heating system in a private house, since the first radiators will heat up very well, but the rest will heat up poorly. This occurs due to the flow of cooled coolant to the last devices.
A two-pipe system is more profitable, since hot water comes from one riser, and cooled water flows into the other. This type of heating network piping is carried out in all private houses, because it allows you to maintain a constant specified thermal regime and makes it possible to control this regime.
Installation Rules
Installation must comply with the following rules:
- The position of the radiator should always be horizontal without any distortions.
- The top grille and the window sill should be separated by 5-10 cm. This space is necessary for the movement of heated air, as well as maintaining high heat transfer.
- The bottom panel and the floor should be separated by 8-12 cm.
- The distance between the rear wall of the radiator and the wall should be 2-5 cm. This norm should also be maintained if reflective thermal insulation is installed behind the radiator.
- Tighten the valve with a force of no more than 12 kg. Since it is very difficult to determine such a force by feel, it is recommended to use a torque wrench. It will allow you to properly tighten all the valves without over-tightening or under-tightening.
Installation features
The sequence is simple:
- Removing the old radiator.
- Determining the location of the mounts for the new battery and making markings.
- Fixing the brackets.
- Preparing and hanging the radiator.
- Installation of shut-off valves.
- Connecting pipes.
Removing the old radiator and fixing the mount
If the heating system is being created in a new house, then you immediately need to start marking the places where the brackets will be fixed. If the housing is old, you will have to dismantle it.
Read also: Heating element for heating radiators
It is easy to do when there is a shut-off valve (ball or shut-off valve) on the inlet and outlet pipes. They are blocked and the battery is unscrewed. If they are not there, you need to shut off the riser and drain the water.
It happens that they shut off and drain water from the wrong riser. Then, when cutting pipes (if you plan to replace them) or while unscrewing nuts, you may encounter difficulties. The first situation can be dangerous, since the pipe is cut with a grinder connected to the mains. Contact of water with electricity results in tragic consequences. Therefore, before cutting, it is worth making a hole in the outlet pipe with an autogenous gun. 
You need to stock up on a container to collect water.
If you install a new radiator, you need to change the position of the suitable pipes. They should be opposite the contours. They are placed at an angle. In this case, the inlet pipe is tilted towards the radiator, and the outlet pipe - away from it. The distance between them near the radiator should be less than near the riser. This will allow air to flow in and out of the radiator easily. The airiness of the battery will be minimal.
The brackets are usually fixed with bolts secured in dowels. Holes are drilled in the wall for them. The brackets are:
- Wall-mounted.
- Floor-standing.
Most of the wall ones cannot change the height. There are those that consist of a base, a moving part and a bolt. By rotating the bolt, you can raise the moving part up or down. The curved end of the bracket should be positioned so that it fits between the battery sections (when installing sectional batteries). Panel radiators have special fastenings, and these are where the brackets should go.
Floor brackets can also be fixed or movable.
Wall brackets are positioned so that they are on the same horizontal line. Check horizontality with a level.
Radiator preparation
In many ways, this process concerns bimetallic and aluminum sectional radiators. They are designed so that two vertical holes have a right-hand thread, and the other two have a left-hand thread.
Installing heating radiators with your own hands is a decision that should be taken seriously: not every person can do it. At the very least, it is imperative to prepare for such a process. Usually, if you just look at the situation amateurishly, you can end up with negative emergency consequences.
Installation of heating radiators
If you live in an apartment multi-storey building, then it is best to call specialists for this, since there is a risk of flooding not only your apartment. In a private house, you can try to install and install homemade batteries heating with your own hands - however, to do this you need to understand the main points of installation.
Preliminary preparation
First, you need to decide what type of wiring was used to install the heating system. Those who arranged it should know this - one-pipe or two-pipe wiring.
And before you start installing heating radiators with your own hands, you also need to find out which heating circuit is single-pipe or double-pipe.
After all, the choice of parts and their quantity will depend on the wiring diagram of your heating system, photos of the diagrams below.
What you need for installation
Depending on what design features has a heating system, the number and list of parts required for installation will depend. For example, if it is single-pipe heating, then a bypass will be required. In case of problems, it will be possible to turn off only the device that has this element, and there will be no need to shut down the entire system - this is especially true in winter situations, when it is not very convenient to turn off the heating in cold weather.
The number of parts for installation is also determined by the connection diagram and type of radiators. Couplings, adapters, angles and nipples are selected according to the diagram.
Also, installing a heating battery yourself will require shut-off valves. You need to select the type of radiator fittings; you should not get carried away with complex ball valves with the so-called “American” valves, which require professional knowledge. And it will be difficult to ensure tightness without much experience in this area. To connect heating radiators to the pipeline with your own hands, you will need bends that will correspond to the dimensions of the radiator and threaded pipes. A sleeve will also be screwed onto the leads - after twisting, it is inserted into the battery. It is worth noting that when you buy cast iron batteries heating, then before installation you need to check whether the brackets match the material of the wall on which they will be mounted.
To be able to bleed air from the battery, you need to install a Mayevsky tap on it. As a rule, it is included in the factory configuration, but if not, then buy it.
Calculating the location
Those who are planning to install a heating radiator with their own hands should take into account that the sections of pipes that lead to the devices must be placed with a slope (slight) - in the direction of movement of the coolant. If the gasket is strictly horizontal or there is a skew in the installation, then air will concentrate in the batteries made of cast iron and steel. You will have to regularly blow it out manually so that the heat transfer does not decrease.
It is better if the central axis of the battery coincides with the axis that goes through the center of the window.
Deviations can be no more than 2 cm, such that will not be determined visually. But such a recommendation does not apply to strict requirements.
Installing heating radiators with your own hands involves following several strict rules:
- The components for supplying heating radiators must be placed so that the slope is 0.005; it is recommended to increase it to 0.01. So, 1 m of the pipeline will have to slope towards the circulation - and by at least 0.5 cm. The angle of inclination must be determined by the length of the pipe sections that are installed.
- There should be 6-10 cm or more from the floor surface to the radiator.
- From the lower outline of the window sill to the upper outline of the battery - 5-10 cm.
- From the plane of the wall to the battery - 3-5 cm.
- Be sure to follow horizontal and vertical directions.
To increase the performance of the radiator, you can install a specialized shield made of special heat-reflecting material before installation. Or you can simply take and cover the surface of the wall with a composition that has similar characteristics.
Marking radiators with brackets
Due to the fact that the batteries have sectional principle devices, this allows you to accurately determine the number of sections that will be needed to heat a room that has specific conditions. Information on how to correctly calculate this amount must be studied in advance - even before purchasing radiators. If you follow the installation rules, then 1 square meter of radiator heating surface area will be equipped with 1 bracket.
A heating battery with your own hands should be marked taking into account the following nuances:
- We mark the mounting points of the brackets taking into account the rules given above.
- Before drilling holes, all distances must be checked again.
- Dowels are inserted into the drilled holes, and fasteners are then screwed into them.
If you have done the markings correctly, then the radiator should fit snugly on all the supports that are installed and rest firmly on each of them.
Tools and materials
You will need torque wrenches with dimensions - they will allow you to follow the torque with high accuracy. And since the coolant will flow through the system under pressure, if the tightness is insufficient, a jet will appear from the connection point.
If the tightening is done excessively, it will cause thread failure.
That is why it is necessary to thoroughly study and follow the instructions for each device - this is where the torque values will be indicated. You will also need sealant, tow with oil paint or sealing tape.
Radiator installation process
Before starting work on installing heating radiators, you need to completely shut off the circuit and drain the water from the system (a pump will help completely remove any remaining water). Let's carefully check the level of the battery, which is hung on supports vertically and horizontally.
So, we unscrew all the plugs from the device. We connect a bypass with a valve (only a one-pipe circuit requires this). For a two-pipe system, only a squeegee with a valve connected to it is used. Using threaded fittings, we connect the radiator to the heating system, and in order to seal the joints, we use tow or another type of sealant.
A bypass is required to turn off the heating device without shutting down the entire system. The valve serves to regulate the circulation of the coolant. The bypass is installed between the supply pipe and the return pipe with taps.
It is worth noting that the packaging film should not be removed from aluminum, steel and bimetallic devices until installation is completed.
After installation, pressure testing will be required. But this can be done by a specialist - because he has not only experience, but also a special apparatus.