How drainage works. Drainage systems: design, principles of operation, installation

How the drainage system works and its types - Do-it-yourself drainage technology

The presence of groundwater at the construction site represents big problem, which requires a solution at the stage of erecting the foundations of the house. If at the beginning of excavation work water appears in the pit, it will be necessary to pump the water out with pumps from a specially constructed pit filled with crushed stone.

Groundwater may appear after construction is completed, which threatens flooding of basements and increased corrosion of foundation materials.

Flooding of the site also poses a danger to green spaces, because many types of trees and shrubs cannot develop normally if their roots are in waterlogged soil. The only means for draining the soil in all cases is to install a site drainage system.

How the drainage system works and types of drainage

The principle of operation of the drainage system is that artificial barriers are created along the path of groundwater movement from trenches filled with bulk materials - sand and crushed stone. Pipes with perforated walls, called drains, are laid at the bottom of the trenches with a certain slope. Groundwater entering such trenches is filtered through sand and crushed stone and accumulates in drainage pipes, and is then removed from the site by gravity.

There are several main types of drainage:

Surface drainage.
Deep drainage.
Formative drainage.
Wall drainage.

Surface drainage is carried out to protect the site from flooding by surface water. In this case, the depth of the trenches is no more than 50 cm.

When installing deep drainage, the depth of drains can reach several meters. Reservoir drainage is arranged in the presence of pressure groundwater, when the use of other drainage systems is not enough.

Formative drainage usually consists of a layer of sand up to 30cm thick, with strips of crushed stone spaced several meters apart, which can be laid under the entire building.

Wall drainage is used to protect basements and foundations from flooding.

The procedure for constructing a drainage system

To install drainage, first of all, establish at what level the groundwater is in relation to the depth of the foundations and to the soil surface. The exact elevation of groundwater can be determined using engineering surveys, but if this is not possible, then information can be obtained by interviewing neighbors, especially if their houses have basements.

If groundwater rises to less than 2.5 meters from the ground surface, then drainage must be performed.

Next, determine the place where you will discharge water from the drainage system. Of course, it is advisable to invite surveyors who can perform high-altitude surveys of the site and surrounding areas using precision instruments. But, if this is not possible, then the nearest bodies of water - a river, lake or ravines - can be a reference point. They are always the lowest points of the terrain.

Then determine what types of drainage need to be installed. If it is definitely established that the area is often and abundantly flooded with groundwater, then perform deep drainage to protect the garden and wall drainage for the foundations of the house.

If there are no ponds or ravines nearby to discharge water, make a water absorption well at least 3 meters deep. Cover the bottom of such a well with several layers of sand and crushed stone so that the water filters into the lower layers of the soil.

Drainage trench construction technology

The procedure for constructing a drainage trench is as follows:

First, fill the bottom with coarse sand in a 50mm thick layer.
Lay the drainage pipe with a slope of 0.002 (2 mm per 1 linear meter) in clay soils and 0.003 (3 mm per 1 linear meter) in sandy soils. If the lowest point of the drainage is located with a difference of several meters from the level of the site, then it is better to make a slope of up to 5-10mm per 1 linear meter. Wrap the drainage pipe with a special fabric - geotextile and cover it with a layer of washed gravel, fraction 10-20mm, 30-40cm thick.
Next, lay another layer of coarse sand 10-20cm thick. Top fill the entire structure with soil previously removed from the trench. Cover the top of the trench with a layer of turf to prevent silting of the drain.
Lay the pipes, as in a regular sewer, in straight lines, and install inspection and rotary wells at turns.

How to make wall drainage and garden protection

Wall drainage is designed to protect house foundations and basement walls from flooding.

When installing wall drainage, apply adhesive waterproofing on the wall using a “Drainiz” type material, which consists of a polymer waterproof and filtering geotextile layer.

Lay the drainage pipe around the perimeter of the house at a distance of at least 1 meter from the wall and not below the level of the base of the foundation. To ensure drainage, determine the lowest level of the well bottom at one of the corners of the house closest to the discharge point, and lay pipes from it, maintaining the required slope, to other corners of the house.

To protect the garden and vegetable garden, create a drainage system in the form of a “herringbone” plan with trenches laid to a depth of about 1 meter. Please note that one pipe can dry up to 15-20 m2 of area. The side pipes should have a diameter of 60-70mm, and the main collector pipe should be at least 100mm. Connect drainage pipes using fittings - tees and elbows, just like sewer pipes.

Materials for drainage systems

For drainage, use asbestos-cement, ceramic and polymer pipes. Make your own cuts in asbestos-cement and ceramic pipes. If you have to make cuts in asbestos-cement or ceramic pipes, then you need to know the following. Make the cuts 4-5mm wide, and the length of the cut should be half the diameter of the pipe, and they should be located alternating on both sides of the pipe every 50cm. Lay pipes with cuts so that the cuts are in a horizontal plane.

Modern manufacturers now offer big choice polyethylene, plastic and PVC pipes with ready-made perforation. When choosing pipes with ready-made perforation, you need to know that plastic pipes can be laid at a depth of no more than 1 meter, polyethylene pipes no more than 3 meters, PVC pipes have the greatest strength and can be used at great depths - up to 10 m.

Rotary, water intake and inspection wells for the drainage system should be made of reinforced concrete rings 600 mm high, the diameter of which should be from 400 to 700 mm. At the bottom of the wells, make concrete trays with a slope towards the general drain. Now on the construction market you can purchase ready-made PVC wells with a diameter of 315 mm and a depth of up to 3 m.

By following all these instructions, you will be able to make drainage with your own hands on your site.

Experienced builders and country residents know well that “excess” water on the site is bad. Excess water leads to flooding of the foundation and basement floor, washout of the foundation, flooding of beds, swamping of the area, etc. As a result, in spring, autumn and even summer you cannot walk around your summer cottage without rubber boots.

In this article we will look at:

How to arrange water drainage on the site.
How to make a budget storm drain with your own hands.
Drainage device. How to make inexpensive drainage and drain a wetland.

What kind of water interferes with the life of a developer and a country homeowner?

A whole book could be written about the types of surface and ground water, as well as drainage and storm sewer systems. Therefore, we will leave beyond the scope of this article a detailed listing of the types and causes of groundwater occurrence, and will concentrate on practice. But without minimal theoretical knowledge, taking on the independent arrangement of drainage and storm sewer systems is throwing money away.

The point is that even an improperly designed drainage system functions for the first few years. Then, due to clogging (silting) of a pipe wrapped in geotextile, which was placed in clayey, loamy, etc. soil, drainage stops working. But money has already been spent on drainage construction and, most importantly, drainage construction involves a large amount of excavation work involving equipment.

Therefore, simply digging up and relaying a drainage pipe 3-5 years after it was laid is difficult and costly. The site is already inhabited, done landscape design, a blind area has been equipped, a gazebo, a bathhouse, etc. have been installed.

You will have to rack your brains on how to redo the drainage so as not to ruin the entire area.

From here - drainage construction should always be based on geological soil survey data(which will help you find a waterproof layer in the form of clay at a depth of 1.5-2 m), hydrogeological surveys and clear knowledge of what kind of water leads to flooding of a house or waterlogging of an area.

Surface waters are seasonal in nature, associated with the period of snowmelt and abundance of rain. Groundwater is divided into three main groups:

Capillary water.
Ground water.
Verkhovodka.

Moreover, if surface water is not drained in time, when infiltrated (absorbed) into the ground it turns into underground water.

The volume of surface water usually exceeds the volume of groundwater.

Conclusion: surface runoff must be drained using storm drainage systems, and don’t try to do surface drainage!

Storm drainage is a system consisting of trays, pipes or ditches dug in the ground, discharging water from drains outside the site + competent organization of the relief on the personal territory. This will allow you to avoid stagnant zones on the site (lenses, pools), where water will accumulate, which simply has nowhere to go, and further waterlogging.

The main mistakes that are made when installing drainage yourself:

Failure to maintain the correct slope of laid drainage pipes. If we take an average, then the slope is maintained in the range from 0.005 to 0.007, i.e. 5-7 mm per 1 running meter of drainage pipe.

Using a drainage pipe in a geotextile wrap on “wrong” soil. To avoid siltation, pipes in geotextiles are used on soils consisting of clean medium- and coarse-grained sands.

Using cheaper crushed limestone instead of granite, which is washed away by water over time.
Saving on high-quality geotextiles, which must have certain hydraulic properties that affect the quality of drainage. This is an effective pore size of 175 microns, i.e. 0.175 mm, as well as transverse Kf, which should be at least 300 m/day (with a single pressure gradient).

Inexpensive do-it-yourself storm drain

The first thing that comes to mind in order to equip a budget option for storm drainage on a site is to lay special trays.

Trays can be made of concrete or plastic, but they are expensive. This makes our portal users look for more cheap options arrangement of storm drainage and drainage systems from the site.

Denis1235 FORUMHOUSE Member

I need to make an inexpensive storm drain, about 48 m long, along the edge of the fence, for drainage melt water, which come from a neighbor. The water must be drained into a ditch. I was wondering how to drain the water. At first it occurred to me to buy and install special trays, but then they would be left with “extra” grates, and I don’t need any special aesthetics for the storm drain. I decided to buy asbestos-cement pipes and saw them lengthwise with a grinder, thereby getting a homemade tray.

Despite the budgetary nature of this idea, the user was not attracted to the need to cut asbestos-cement pipes on his own. The second option is the opportunity to buy gutters (plastic or metal) and lay them on a prepared base in a concrete layer of about 100 mm.

Portal users dissuaded Denis1235 from this idea in favor of the first option, which is more durable.

Hooked on the idea of an inexpensive storm drain, but not wanting to deal with cutting pipes on my own, Denis1235 I found a factory that produces asbestos-cement pipes, where they will immediately cut them into pieces 2 m long (so that the 4-meter one does not crack during transportation) and ready-made trays will be delivered to the site. All that remains is to develop a scheme for laying the trays.

The result is the following “pie”:

Soil base in the form of a bed.
A layer of sand or ASG about 5 cm thick.
Concrete about 7 cm.
Tray made of asbestos-cement pipe.

When installing such a storm drain, do not forget to lay metal mesh(for reinforcement) at the joints and leave a deformation gap (3-5 mm) between the trays.

Denis1235

As a result, I made a budget rain shower at the dacha. It took 2 days to dig the trench, another two days to pour concreting and install the route. I spent 10 thousand rubles on trays.

Practice has shown that the route “overwintered” well, did not crack and intercepts water from its neighbor, leaving the area dry. Also interesting is the option of rain (storm) sewerage for the portal user with the nickname yury_by.

yury_by FORUMHOUSE Member

Because The crisis doesn’t seem to be ending, then I started thinking about how to install a storm drain to drain rainwater away from the house. I want to solve the problem, save money, and do everything efficiently.

After some thought, the user decided to make a storm drain for water drainage based on flexible double-walled corrugated pipes (they cost 2 times less than “red” sewer pipes), which are used for laying power cables underground. But, because the depth of the drainage route is planned to be only 200-300 mm with a pipe diameter of 110 mm, yury_by I was afraid that the corrugated pipe might break in the winter if water got between the two layers.

Eventually yury_by I decided to take a budget “gray” pipe, which is used when installing internal sewerage. Although he had concerns that the pipes, which were not as rigid as the “red” ones, would break in the ground, practice has shown that nothing happened to them.

yury_by

If you step on the “gray” pipe, it turns into an oval, but there are no significant loads in the place where I buried it. The lawn has just been laid and there is foot traffic. Having laid the pipe in the trench and sprinkled it with soil, I made sure that they kept their shape and the storm drain was working.

The user liked the option of installing an inexpensive storm drain based on “gray” sewer pipes so much that he decided to repeat it. All the nuances of the process are clearly demonstrated by the following photographs.

We dig a hole to collect water.

Level the base.

We install a concrete ring.

The next stage is to fill the bottom of the well with gravel of fraction 5-20.

We cast a homemade well cover from concrete.

We paint the manhole cover.

We insert a drainage plastic “gray” sewer pipe into the well, maintaining a slope of 1 cm per 1 linear meter.

We spill the pipe with a mixture of sand and water so that there are no voids left between the walls of the trench and the pipe.

To prevent the pipe from floating, it can be pressed down with a brick or board.

We put the lid on, install the hatch and fill everything with soil.

This completes the production of the budget rain shower.

Construction of low-cost drainage and drainage of wetlands

Not everyone gets the “right” plots. In SNT or in new cuts, the land may be very swampy, or the developer may have a peat bog. To build a normal house for permanent residence on such land, and not a light summer cottage, is both difficult and expensive. There are two ways out of this situation - sell/exchange the plot or start draining and putting the plot in order.

In order not to deal with various expensive alterations in the future, users of our portal offer budget options for drainage and drainage of the territory based on car tires. This option allows you to save your family budget.

Yuri Podymakhin Member of FORUMHOUSE

Peat soil is characterized by a high groundwater level. On my site, the water is almost level with the surface, and after rain it does not go into the ground. To take away top water, it must be thrown outside the site. I didn’t spend money on buying special pipes for drainage, but made drainage from car tires.

The system is installed as follows: a ditch is dug, tires are placed in it, and the tires are covered with polyethylene on top so that the earth from above does not fall inside. Polyethylene can also be additionally pressed with pieces of slate that are “unnecessary” in the household. This will increase the overall rigidity of the structure. Water enters the “tire” pipeline and is then discharged outside the site.

But there are also “harder” places where much more needs to be done.

Seryoga567 FORUMHOUSE Member

I have a plot in SNT with a total area of 8 acres. There is a building on the site that I plan to complete and expand. The place is very low. Because drainage grooves for drainage in SNT they are in a deplorable state, where they are buried, littered or clogged, then the water does not go anywhere. The water level is so high that you can draw water from the well with a bucket, holding it by the handle. In the spring, the water in the dacha sits for a long time, the area actually turns into a swamp and, if it dries out, it is only in the summer when it is very hot. Drive drainage ditches no one wants to get in order, so everyone floats around. Therefore, I decided that it was useless to fight with my neighbors. You need to raise your site and find a way to dispose of all the “unnecessary” water from the site.

Land owners often face the problem of excess water after snow melts, rains, or due to high groundwater. Excess moisture is harmful not only to plant roots, but also leads to flooding of basements and even premature destruction of building foundations. Installing a drainage system will help cope with this problem. This is an engineering structure, thanks to which storm and groundwater are discharged outside the site.

The system includes point drainage systems and linear channels. The drainage system is a gravity flow system. Pipes (drains) are laid with a uniform slope (1–3 cm per meter of length). This is especially important for silty soils. The decline should go away from the house. Inspection wells are installed at pipe bends. They make the system easier to maintain. Straight sections are equipped with wells every 30–50 meters.

Layout of drains on the site according to the herringbone pattern

The drains on the site are laid out in a herringbone pattern. The diameter of the auxiliary pipes is 75 millimeters, the main pipe is 100 millimeters. The central pipe carries water outside the site.

Pipes should not be laid close to the house or fence. The distance from the foundation to the pipe is at least 1 meter.

Types of drainage

Drainage can be performed open or closed. The choice of drainage system depends on the climate and type of soil. The groundwater level is also important.

Open drainage is the simplest method of drainage. Water flows through ditches to a given place. Also applicable drainage trays with decorative grilles. The most important thing here is the slope. It should be 2-3 centimeters per meter of length.
The closed version is more common. These are branched drainage systems located in the ground. Pipes or crushed stone are placed at the bottom of the trench. Brushwood or large stones are also suitable for this. The main thing is that the material conducts water. To make the water decrease faster, the slope is 2–5 centimeters per meter of length.

Open system

A ditch is dug along the perimeter of the site and the house. The width should be 40–50 centimeters, the depth 50–60 centimeters. The slope is made towards the common water intake trench. For better water drainage, the walls of the ditch are beveled at an angle of 30 degrees.

This system has its own characteristics:

low cost;
completing the work does not take much time;
has an unaesthetic appearance;
with a large amount of water, it is necessary to increase the depth of the ditch, which increases the likelihood of falls and injuries;
Over time, the wall of such a ditch collapses.

Decorative trays extend the life of the drainage system and give a more aesthetic appearance

To increase service life, trays are used. They can be plastic or concrete. Decorative grilles increase safety. The appearance of the site also improves.

Modern drainage according to a linear scheme involves the use of special parts: channels, gutters and trays, which are installed in pre-prepared ditches dug to the water collection site with a slope. Grates are laid on top of such ditches.

Closed system

Pipe drainage carries water to the catchment well. Drainage drains are laid in trenches. Perforated pipes are filled with crushed stone and covered with geotextiles. Connecting to the collector, the water is discharged to the collection well.

Using a network of drainage pipes, excess soil moisture is drained into separately located drainage wells

The closed type is a drainage pit. A hole dug to a depth of 2 meters is filled with gravel. Excess moisture collects in it. Subsequently, the water gradually disappears into the soil.

Backfill drainage is similar to closed drainage, but the difference between them is that instead of pipes in in this case the trench is filled up to half with large crushed stone or broken bricks. The upper part of the trench is covered with a smaller fraction - small stone or gravel. Upper layer made from soil. Backfill drainage is now rarely used. On clay soils the system quickly fails. The filter media becomes silted and does not allow water to pass through.

Modern drainage systems

Modern industry offers new types of drainage systems. Synthetic materials are durable and lightweight. The versatility of the parts ensures ease of assembly.

Pipe and pipeless structures have been developed. Plastic devices are environmentally friendly. Pipes are sold with or without geotextile wrapping. The drainage kit includes two-layer drains and synthetic filters.

Systems without crushed stone

Instead of crushed stone they are used synthetic aggregates. The bottom of the trench is compacted and covered with sand. Pipes are laid taking into account the slope. The tecton is covered with layer-by-layer water-permeable material.

The thickness of the coating depends on the water permeability of the soil. Usually it is 100–300 millimeters. Geotextiles are laid on top and soil is filled. Soft drainage is more expensive, but more effective than crushed stone.

Geotextiles are used in drainage systems as a separating layer

Systems without pipes

Using new technologies, pipes can be replaced with a different design. Synthetic drainage mats are now being produced. This is a three-dimensional plastic mesh wrapped in geotextile. Lightweight products made of composite material are easy to install. Their advantage is protection against silting.

Even if the upper or lower layers of geotextile silt, the drainage grid itself will continue to work perfectly and drain groundwater

When the soil is highly moistened, there are enlarged systems. These are drainage tunnels and fields. Plastic elements are assembled into monumental structures. They can be used on large areas.

Softrock systems

The cassette consists of a perforated pipe and polystyrene foam filler. The structure is covered with durable woven mesh. The top layer is made of double geotextile. Special channels improve water flow. A drainage cassette is 35–60% more efficient than a system with crushed stone.

The flexible pipe in the case is 3 meters long. It is completely ready for installation. The softrock drainage system is located at a depth of 45 centimeters. After installation, they are covered with soil.

The softrock system uses expanded polystyrene instead of crushed stone

According to consumer reviews, the system is reliable and durable. Many installed it on their own. The time of year does not affect the production of work. The flexibility of the sections is especially noted, which makes it possible to bend around trees and buildings.

After the autumn rains, water stood in the basement; it was necessary to provide high-quality drainage. I remembered the crushed stone and figured out in my mind how many resources needed to be poured into this project: time, work force, transport to transport this crushed stone, and then spread it further... I was looking for instructions on the Internet, came across Softrock, decided to take a risk and did not regret it. Easy, inexpensive, modern and smart: foam balls tucked into the belt. Indeed, everything is ingenious - simple
Valentinehttp://softrock.ru/o-nas/otzyvy/

The pipe there is the same as the 110 or 160 pipe, it is the same, the filtration element is only polystyrene foam, in bad soils sand and crushed stone can kill a lot and the area will turn into a swamp, but this pipe can be laid in a landscaped area, it will work out neatly. The main thing that year was to make 2 sections from the standard system: geotextiles, sand, crushed stone + pipe + crushed stone, geotextile soil, the second only softrock - in the first section the soil has not yet receded and the water is standing, but the softrock works faster. It has a surrounding layer of foam plastic, it is like insulation for drainage, and the diameter is stable 27 cm. Of course, everything depends on its purpose, the soft rock will simply go along the site, and if it does not carry the load on the road.
Drenazh2013https://www.forumhouse.ru/threads/195034/page-3

Modern and high-quality drainage, if you, like me, did not know how technology has advanced in this area, then look at soft rock, there is something to be surprised at. Very easy to install and requires no maintenance. No rubble or problems. External material It only lets water through, no need to clean it. No, it's really very convenient.
Cinderellahttps://www.otovarah.ru/forum/topic/4373-drenazh-softrok-softrock/

Drainage for storm water drainage

The façade, foundations, and area around the house suffer from precipitation. The drainage system for drainage of storm water includes:

roof gutters;
point storm water inlets;
storm drainage;
drainage system.

Gutters and pipes remove water from the roof. Stormwater inlets are installed under the drainpipe. They direct water through pipes into storm drains. Typically, two-layer polymer drains are used. They are laid in trenches at a slope of 2 centimeters by 1 meter.

Drainage system and storm sewerage

Rainwater must be removed from the building. To do this, drainage wells or storage tanks are installed in the drainage system. Rainwater is collected in a sealed reservoir. It can be used for irrigation or technical purposes.

The walls of the well are reinforced with concrete rings. The depth should be at the level of the filter layer of soil. Then the water will gradually go into the soil. If such layers lie deep, wells are drilled. It is necessary to take into account the groundwater level. At high levels, wells are ineffective.

Storm drainage for a country house should be installed simultaneously with the drainage system for a more correct calculation of water drainage

Installation of a drainage system: step-by-step technology

Before starting installation, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the site, note natural slopes, and determine the groundwater level. Mark the trenches on the ground according to the diagram. To do this, use pegs and cord.

Calculation and drainage diagram

The calculation consists of determining the upper and lower points of the system. The lowest point corresponds to the place of water discharge. The top one is selected 30 centimeters below the foundation. The slope angle is taken to be at least 1%.

You need to calculate the length of the entire trench. To do this, add up the distance from the well and the length of the trench around the house. One percent of this amount is equal to the difference between the upper and lower points. If the water intake point is higher, a drainage pump is needed.

The correct diagram of the drainage system will help you make it yourself

The drainage system diagram indicates:

location of buildings on the site;
water storage area;
main conductor;
drainage drains.

SNiP drainage system

When designing drainage systems to prevent or eliminate flooding of territories, the requirements of SNiP drainage 2.06.15–85, as well as SNiP 2.06.14–85 and SNiP II-52–74 must be met.

When designing, preference should be given to systems with gravity drainage. Drainage systems with forced pumping of water require additional justification.
Depending on the hydrogeological conditions, horizontal, vertical and combined drainages should be used.
The use of a drainage system should be justified by studying the water, and for the arid zone, the salt balance of groundwater.
Performing horizontal drainage using open trench and trenchless methods is determined by economic feasibility. In the case of installing open horizontal drainages at a depth of up to 4 m from the ground surface, the depth of soil freezing, as well as the possibility of their overgrowing, should be taken into account.
Open channels and trenches should be constructed in cases where drainage of large areas with one- and two-story low-density buildings is required. Their use is also possible to protect ground transport communications from flooding.
To secure the slopes of open drainage ditches and trenches, it is necessary to use concrete or reinforced concrete slabs or rock fill. Drainage holes must be provided in reinforced slopes.
In closed drainages, sand and gravel mixture, expanded clay, slag, polymer and other materials should be used as a filter and filter bedding.
Water should be drained through trenches or channels by gravity. Installation of water collection tanks with pumping stations pumping is advisable in cases where the topography of the protected territory has lower elevations than the water level in the nearest water body, where surface runoff from the protected territory should be diverted.
Discharge of water into storm sewers is permitted if the capacity of the storm sewer is determined taking into account the additional costs of water coming from the drainage system. In this case, back-up of the drainage system is not allowed.
Inspection wells should be installed at least every 50 m in straight sections of drainage, as well as in places of turns, intersections and changes in slope of drainage pipes. Inspection wells may be used in prefabricated reinforced concrete rings with a settling tank (at least 0.5 m deep) and concrete bottoms in accordance with GOST 8020–80. Inspection wells on reclamation drainages should be adopted in accordance with SNiP II-52–74.
The following pipes should be used: ceramic, asbestos-cement, concrete, reinforced concrete or polyvinyl chloride pipes, as well as pipe filters made of porous concrete or porous polymer concrete.
Concrete, reinforced concrete, asbestos-cement pipes, as well as pipe filters made of porous concrete should be used only in soils and water that are non-aggressive towards concrete.

Pipes for drainage system

Modern industry produces three types of pipes:

asbestos-cement;
ceramic;
polymer.

The first two types are now rarely used. They are expensive, heavy and short-lived. Diversity plastic pipes fills the market. Single and double-layer, flexible and rigid polymer pipes have many advantages.

Polymer pipes are most often used for drainage

Do-it-yourself drainage installation

You can install drainage on the site yourself. Any company can help you select pipes and fittings for them. To make a drainage system you will need the following tools and materials:

pipes made of asbestos cement or plastic, fittings;
wrenches, pipe cutting scissors;
filter non-woven material;
ready-made or manufactured manholes;
storm water inlets (catchment inlet), trays, gutters, gratings, sand traps;
gravel, sand;
level;
bayonet and shovel;
electric or pneumatic hammer drill;
wheelbarrow, buckets;
iron or wooden rammer;
individual protection means.

The construction of a deep drainage system occurs as follows:

Construction begins with the installation of a collector well, that is, a place where water will be collected from the entire system. It would be simple and rational to use a ready-made container made of durable polymer, although it is also possible to independently manufacture a well from reinforced concrete rings.
A prefabricated drainage well is needed so that excess water accumulates in it, which fills the drainage system to capacity
Next, trenches are prepared for laying drainage pipes. The trench is dug 20–30 cm deeper than the expected depth of the pipes to be laid, and it is necessary to maintain a slope of 0.5–0.7%.
The depth of the trench depends on the climatic conditions of the area where the drainage system is installed
If it is impossible to maintain the given slope, then this scheme will have to include an additional pump for the drainage structure of the site.
Sand cushions 10 cm thick are placed in the dug trenches, which are compacted very carefully.
Then the trench is lined with geotextile fabric so that its edges extend beyond the trench.
Gravel 10–20 cm thick is poured onto the fabric, on which the pipes will be laid.
We lay out the geotextile fabric so that it completely covers the entire area of the trench and continues to spread along the surface of the earth for another 20–30 centimeters
Inspection wells are installed at the turning points of the drainage structure pipeline. Wells are also installed on straight sections every 50 meters.
A plastic inspection drainage well is needed to easily check the drainage system and, if necessary, repair or clean it.
After the pipes are laid, washed gravel is poured on top of them in a layer of 10 to 20 cm and all this is wrapped in excess geotextile overlapping. You can secure the fabric with polyethylene twine.
A layer of washed gravel is poured onto the pipes and wrapped in excess geotextile
Geotextiles will act as a filter that does not allow soil particles to pass through and will prevent the gravel layer from silting.
Filling the trench: sand, then soil or crushed stone, and turf is laid on top. A sand cushion is needed to prevent pipe deformation during the off-season.
You can lay grass turf on top of the drainage trench or decorate it with stones

Video: laying drainage using perforated pipeline

Drainage system maintenance, cleaning

Maintenance consists of inspecting and cleaning the system. Regular inspection will help identify minor problems.

Basic methods of servicing drying and drainage systems:

Cleaning drainage (mechanical method). It can be carried out using different methods. The choice of any of them depends on where exactly the pipes are located and design features. If the drain is on the surface, it is best to choose a manual cleaning method. It can be carried out independently, without the involvement of qualified specialists. If we are talking about deep drainage, more effective methods will be required, which may involve excavation. In this case, you will need a pneumatic installation with a cleaning tool and a shaft. The second option involves the use of a special nozzle, which will remove deposits on the pipe walls and crush large inclusions. The system should be cleaned at least once every 3–4 years.
Flushing drainage (hydrodynamic method). Typically, the system is cleaned in sections using a hose and pump. Global cleaning of the system should be done once every 10–15 years. To do this, you need to provide access to each drain from both ends. On one side the pipe goes into a drainage well, and the other end is brought to the surface. To do this, even at the stage of laying the system, outlets are made and with the help of fittings the pipe is extended and taken to a certain place. During the flushing process, pumping equipment is connected to one or the other end of the pipe, and a stream of water is passed under pressure. This uses a compressor that will supply compressed air into the pipe. The system is cleaned by a flow of a mixture of air and water. The hydrodynamic method is different high efficiency - under this influence, sediments and debris are crushed, after which they are washed out of the drains with clean water.

Video: cleaning a drainage well with a drainage pump

Manholes require regular cleaning. They must always be closed. Pipes are cleaned of debris using a hydraulic method using high pressure. Mechanical cleaning with scrapers or brushes is unacceptable.

In order for the water drainage system from the site to work as efficiently and as long as possible, it is necessary to pay attention to its maintenance and repair.

The type of drainage system is determined by the characteristics of a particular site. Each owner chooses the most suitable option for him. Laying drainage can be done independently, with necessary calculations, compliance with sanitary standards and rules and recommendations of specialists. If properly maintained, the system can operate for more than 50 years.

Ground and storm water from the foundation will significantly increase the service life of the capital building, and country house building. An easy-to-use drainage system will protect underground concrete structures from gradual erosion, and basements from watering. But it is extremely important to prevent the destruction of the very foundation of the structure, right?

A well-designed drainage scheme around the house will help to build an efficient system for collecting and draining natural water. We invite you to familiarize yourself with carefully selected and verified information based on regulations and real experience of builders of low-rise buildings.

We will tell you in detail about the types of drainage systems, the features of their design, and the specifics of operation. We will give reasons in favor of choosing a certain type of drainage. The useful information presented to your attention is supplemented with photos, diagrams and video instructions.

When designing a drainage system, the goals that are planned to be achieved are first determined. They may consist of draining the entire area, protecting the foundation and basement of the house from excess moisture.

From existing systems There are two main types of drainage - open and deep (closed). The first can be used for agricultural needs, for drainage from cultivated areas. Closed drainage is used to drain water in dacha and cottage areas, to protect buildings from the negative effects of high groundwater levels.

The organization of a drainage system is necessary when the groundwater level is high, which is especially evident during the flood period. Drainage to protect from underground water aggression concrete foundation and reduce the hydraulic load

Combined drainage systems are also used. They are often supplemented with storm sewer lines designed for recycling atmospheric water. Provided they are properly designed, they can significantly save on the construction of each system separately.

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The first and main sign that site owners need to arrange drainage is stagnation of water during the snowmelt period. This means that the underlying soils have low filtration capacity, i.e. do not allow water to pass through well or not at all

Drainage is necessary in areas with pronounced signs of soil erosion: cracks that appear during the dry period. This is a manifestation of soil erosion by groundwater, ultimately leading to destruction

Collection and drainage of water is required if, during the period of snowmelt and heavy rainfall, groundwater rises to the level of utility lines.

Drainage systems are constructed in areas with a characteristic slope. But in this case they are needed for a balanced distribution of water and retention of it on elevated areas

Flooding of the area during snowmelt

Erosion and erosion of soil under the foundation

Water at the level of utility lines

Suburban plot with slope

#1: Open drainage device

Open drainage is the simplest and most economical method of draining water, which can be used subject to the following conditions:

the underlying soil layer is clayey, poorly permeable to water, which is why the fertile layer, located 20–30 cm from the surface of the earth, is waterlogged;
the site is located in a lowland into which rainwater naturally flows during periods of heavy rainfall;
there is no natural slope in the terrain of the site to ensure the movement of excess water towards the street.

Open drainage is arranged in areas with high groundwater level, the elevation of which is most often determined by the location of the land plot in a lowland or the clayey composition of the soil, which does not allow or very weakly allows water to pass into the underlying layers.

A drainage system designed to drain excess groundwater works perfectly in tandem with a storm drain, whose job is to collect and drain precipitation (+)

Planning a drainage scheme is best done at the design stage of a house. This will allow you to tie up the work and place the rainwater inlet under the gutters before installing the blind area.

Open drainage is considered the simplest and does not require drawing up a diagram. It consists of trenches 0.5 m wide and 0.6-0.7 m deep. The sides of the trench are positioned at an angle of 30°. They encircle the perimeter of the territory and direct wastewater into a ditch or pit, into a storm drain.

Areas sloping towards the street are easier to drain. To do this, a drainage ditch is dug in front of the house, across the slope, which will retain water from the garden. Then they dig a ditch, it will direct the wastewater towards the street, into the ditch.

If the site has a slope in the opposite direction from the road, then a transverse drainage ditch is dug in front of the fence facade and another longitudinal one is made to the end of the site.

The disadvantage of such drainage is its low aesthetics and the need to regularly clean the gutters from silt and dirt that periodically accumulate in them. This type of drainage is not recommended for installation under road surface, as it leads to soil subsidence and deformation of the canvas

The length of lines for water drainage, the number of wells and sand collectors depends on the area of the site, its topography, and the intensity of precipitation in a particular area.

Drainage ditches can be strengthened from erosion using reinforced concrete slabs, stone paving, turf with crushed stone bottom

If the site is considered more or less flat, and its level of swampiness is not too high, then you can get by with the installation of a simple drainage system.

Along the foundation of the fence, in the lowest place of the site, they dig a ditch 0.5 m wide, 2-3 m long and 1 m deep. Although such a drainage system will protect against high groundwater levels, it will also cope well with precipitation.

To prevent the edges of the ditch from collapsing, it is filled with rubble, broken glass and brick. Having filled it, they dig the next one, it is also filled and compacted tightly. The excavated soil is used to fill low-lying areas on the territory

Over time, this simple drainage system may become ineffective due to gradual silting. To prevent this from happening, it can be protected with a geo-textile. It is laid on the ground, and after filling the ditch, the drainage layer is overlapped with it. From above, to hide the ditch, it is sprinkled with a layer of fertile soil.

#2: Construction of an effective storm drain

Storm drainage is necessary for the accumulation and removal from the site of water falling in the form of precipitation. It is equipped with point and linear drainage devices.

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Storm sewer systems are designed to collect atmospheric water and prevent its penetration into the soil and then into the underlying soils

Based on the type of water intake devices, storm sewer systems are divided into point and linear. The former are built in areas with organized drainage, the latter - with unorganized

Linear water intakes have a much larger collection area than point ones. They are installed next to houses with unorganized drainage and on areas paved with a waterproof coating

In linear storm drains, water is both collected and transported through a network of channels covered with metal or plastic grating. In point systems, water is drained through a system of pipes laid in the ground

Storm sewer with point water intake

Point storm drainage channels

Linear water intakes

Structure of trays with gratings

The first type of water collectors is installed under the risers of an organized drainage system. The second type of water collectors is located under the slopes of roofs with unorganized drainage.

Water entering the catch basin moves through an open or closed pipeline. It is diverted either to a common catchment well or to a collector well, from which it is transferred to a centralized sewer network or drainage ditch.

A storm inlet is a container for collecting water, equipped with outlets for connecting pipes of a linear drainage system. The devices are made of durable plastic or cast iron (+)

Elements of a storm system with point drainage basins also include drains, ladders, and dampers. Some manufacturers provide the possibility of connecting storm water inlets to roof gutters, as well as to underground drainage systems.

In addition, ready production models provide sand traps and garbage containers to simplify system maintenance.

The device with installed decorative grille should be located 3-5 mm lower than the level of the path or ground

This is a system of drainage gutters made of plastic or concrete, which are installed on the site in those places where water accumulation is most likely, but extremely undesirable.

For a drainage well, choose the most distant place from the house, well, or cellar. If there is a natural or artificial reservoir nearby, then water can be drained into it

When designing with linear water intakes, the first step is to plan the placement of a catchment or collector well. Next, determine the location of the rotary and inspection wells. Their placement will depend on the placement of stormwater inlets, gutters and closed sewer branches.

To prevent water from the street from entering the yard, gutters are installed along the line of gates leading into the yard, garage doors, and also in the area of the gate. When choosing system elements that will be installed on the roadway, the future load on them is taken into account.

To prevent moisture from getting inside the building, the slope of the coating in the garage is made towards the water intake grille. This way, when washing a car or thawing snow on a vehicle, water will flow into the gutter.

Drainage trays must be installed on the porch, around the pool. They are also installed along blind areas, garden paths, lined with facing material sites

To give the storm drain a neat look, use special trays made of polymer concrete, plastic, which are closed with metal or plastic grilles. When entering the house, use a special tray to clean shoes.

The grate for the gutter installed near the pool is chosen to be plastic, white to avoid burns on a hot summer day.

For intensive use, drainage trays are mounted on concrete base. The higher the load class roadway, the thicker the concrete base should be (+)

The gutters and water intake points are connected to the drainage tank. Inspection wells are provided at the junctions of gutters and pipes. They are designed to facilitate access to the system and clean it from possible clogging.

Inspection wells are made mainly of plastic. In order to obtain the required depth, their design provides for the possibility of extension using special extension elements.

The placement, slope and length of storm sewer pipes - all these characteristics are very individual and depend on many conditions on the site

A wide range of system elements allows you to design the most rationally, which will be optimal from a technical and financial point of view.

The main elements of linear drainage are gutters made of concrete, polymer concrete, plastic, point receivers, sand traps, gratings (+)

#3: Construction of closed drainage options

Underground, closed drainage is used if the installation of an open system will take up too much space on the land plot or it absolutely does not fit into the landscape picture of the area. The conditions for constructing a closed drainage system are similar to those for organizing a network of open drainage ditches and ditches.

Closed drainage schemes are used to protect the foundation, basements from the impact of groundwater and increasing their service life. By analogy with open ones, they are used to drain suburban areas from excess groundwater.

It is imperative to organize underground drainage on the site if:

it is located in a lowland, wetland area;
there is a natural pond near the buildings;

Underground drainage can be divided into two types:

wall drainage;
trench (stratal) drainage.

Both types of underground drainage are carried out at the construction stage of the building. If it was decided to begin the problem of drainage after the construction of the house, then a trench ring system is used. There are also limitations to the use of trench drainage. It can be used if the house does not have a basement.

The fact is that, after filling the pit with sand or soil, it creates a looser environment between the bedrock and the foundation. As a result, high water penetrates into this environment and then even the presence of a clay castle does not protect the building from moisture.

Therefore, if the house has a basement floor, for effective drainage it is best to install wall drainage. It is used for drainage to drain groundwater directly from the foundation of a building, to protect basements, cellars, and ground floors from flooding.

Trees and shrubs should not be planted near the drain. The distance to the planted tree can be at least two meters and to the bush at least one meter

The wall one limits the rise in water level, preventing it from rising above the line where the drainage pipes are located - drains. It is believed that a drainage pipe 1 m long is capable of draining an area of about 10-20 m2.

When installing wall drainage, the pipe is laid around the perimeter of the building. The depth of the drains cannot be lower than the base of the foundation slab or the base of the foundation. If the foundation is very deep, then laying the pipe slightly above its base is allowed (+)

The distance from the drainage pipe to the foundation depends on the location. They are laid in each corner (or through one corner) of the building, as well as in places where pipes turn and connect.

Inspection wells are also located in places where there is a large difference in the level of the site and when the pipes are long - the distance between the wells should be no more than 40 meters.

In an inspection well, the pipe cannot be solid; it breaks. This is done so that if the pipeline becomes clogged, it remains possible to flush it using a high-pressure hose

The entire system closes to the last well. It should be located in the lowest place. The water then flows into a regular sewer or open reservoir. If it is not possible to drain water from the house by gravity, then pumping equipment is installed and it is forcibly pumped out.

To ensure gravity drainage of water, the pipes are laid to the side of the collecting manifold. The slope should be two centimeters per meter of drainage pipeline. The depth of the pipe must be greater than the freezing depth of the soil.

The pipe is covered with drainage material - gravel, small crushed stone or sand. The minimum layer that will ensure the flow of water into the drain is 0.2 m

To save on geocomposite materials and prevent them from mixing with the soil, geotextiles are used. It freely passes water to the drains and at the same time retains particles that lead to siltation. The pipe itself must also be wrapped in plastic before backfilling. protective material. Some drain models are produced with ready-made geotextile filters.

You can increase the efficiency of wall drainage using profiled polymer membrane, which can be two or three layers. One of its layers is a polyethylene film with formed protrusions, the second layer of the membrane is geotextile fabric.

The three-layer membrane is equipped with an additional layer of smooth polyethylene film. The membrane helps filter water from the soil while also serving as a waterproofing layer for the building's foundation.

Closed trench-type drainage protects the structure from flooding and moisture. It is a filter layer that is poured into a trench at a distance of 1.5-3 m from the wall of the house.

It is better that the depth of the drain be 0.5 m deeper than the base of the foundation - this way the water will not exert pressure on it from below. Between the trench with drainage and the foundation of the house there remains a layer of clay soil, which serves as a so-called clay castle.

As with the installation of a wall drainage system, drains are laid on a layer of gravel or small crushed stone. Both the pipes and the gravel layer are protected from clogging by geotextiles.

#4: Construction of wall drainage step by step

In order to get a clear idea of the process of installing drainage around a country house, let's look at an example. The area shown in it required the installation of a groundwater drainage system, because Under the soil-vegetative layer lie loams and sandy loams, which are extremely poorly permeable to water due to their low filtration capacity.

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To install drainage, we develop a trench around the house. Since the work was carried out with a mini-excavator, we retreated 1.2 m from the walls so as not to damage the building. If you save manually, you can do it closer. The bottom of the excavation is 20-30 cm below the foundation

The branches of the trench formed around the house must have a slope towards the common trench intended for the pipe for draining collected water to the collector well

Cover the bottom of the trench with sand. We compact it and form a slope of 2-3 cm per linear meter. We direct the slope towards the common trench, the bottom of which is also filled and tamped. In the case of communications crossing the trench, take into account that the drainage pipes must pass below them

We prepare drains, perforated polymer pipes, for installation in the trench. We wrap them in geotextile, which will prevent clogging of the system and filter groundwater

We cover the compacted bottom of the trench with a second layer of geotextile, pour gravel on it and lay drains

We lay channels for draining water from storm sewers and the drainage system in one trench. It is permissible to divert the water collected from them into one collector and use common inspection wells

Having wrapped the gravel backfill together with the drainage pipe with a second layer of geotectile, we fill the trench with quarry sand. We do not use the soil dumped during the development of the trench; sand will better allow water to pass through for collection by drainage

The efficiency of the drainage system and its reliability depend not only on the correctness of the system design, but also on the quality of the materials used. Special attention It is worth paying attention to HDPE drainage pipes with geotextiles. These system elements must be installed in compliance with the technical process rules.

Basic materials for drainage

The materials used to create a drainage system include:

perforated pipes;
drainage pumps;
geotextiles;
drainage membranes.

To create an effective drainage system on the site, you need to learn more about each specified material.

What geotextiles are needed for the drainage system

Geotextiles are needed to ensure the stability of the entire system and prevent subsidence of the soil in the trench. This material is also a filter that helps prevent silting of the drainage pipe.

The best material for use in a drainage system is one that is made from virgin raw materials. It is worth noting that a feature of high-quality geotextiles is its snow-white color.

For the drainage system, it is worth choosing thermally bonded geotextiles, since needle-punched ones do not have the necessary hygroscopic characteristics. This is due to the fact that the second named type of geotextile quickly becomes clogged with soil.

Geotextiles can be replaced with drainage mats made from geocomposite. But when purchasing them, it is worth remembering that they need to be wrapped in geofabric.

Geotextile laying process

When laying geotextiles in drainage ditches, the following rules must be observed:

The bottom and walls of the ditches must have a flat surface. It is also worth remembering that there should be no debris at the bottom.
Some types of the described material are sensitive to ultraviolet radiation. Because of this, you should not remove the wrapper before starting work.
If the geotextile was damaged during installation, it is worth replacing the used piece of material with a new one.
When laying, avoid the formation of folds and waves. But at the same time, you also need to make sure that the fabric is not stretched, as this can lead to its rupture.

When laying material on large area it needs to be fixed.
To prevent damage to the material, it should be backfilled immediately after placement in the trench.
After backfilling the drainage material over the geotextile is completed, it is necessary to roll up the edges of the material. In this case, the overlap of the edges should be about 20 cm. This will provide protection from contamination of the drainage material.
On last stage It is necessary to lay soil on the edges of the geotextile and compact it.

When purchasing drainage pipes and geotextiles, you should not choose the cheapest products, as they may be of poor quality.

Drainage membranes

The membranes are usually made of polyethylene and have a pimpled structure. It is worth noting that membranes made from primary raw materials are more durable. If such products are made from recycled polyethylene, they can withstand a load approximately 2 times lower than material made from virgin polyethylene.

Membranes are designed to perform the following functions:

protection of the waterproofing layer from mechanical damage;
protection of waterproofing of building foundations;
distribution of the load that arises from the backfill soil pressure, as well as from groundwater pressure;
filtering groundwater and redirecting it into pipes;
protection of the waterproofing layer on the roof in use.

Thus, the described membranes are used in industrial and civil engineering, when creating cottages, as well as during the creation of roads.

Types of drainage pumps and their areas of application

Pumps are divided into two main types:

submersible;
superficial.

Submersible pumps are completely submersible in water. They are more powerful, as they are often used to lift water from a well. Such units are compact and do not create noise during operation. The disadvantages of such products include the difficulty of repair, as well as the need to remove the pump from the ground for maintenance. Surface pumps are located at some distance from the water, and the water is pumped using a hose.

Drainage pumps can be used in everyday life, as well as in industry and construction. For example, they are often used in areas for pumping water from drainage wells. The pump can be installed in the well permanently or immersed in it only when necessary. The second option for using a pump is used only if a small amount of water accumulates in the area.

Pipe design features

Almost all drainage pipes have a perforated surface. Thanks to this, the walls can be thin, but still remain rigid. At the same time, large-diameter pipes can be lightweight, making the creation of a drainage system easier.

The described pipes may have one or two layers. Single-layer ones have corrugated inner and outer surfaces. Such products are characterized by good flexibility, so they are often used to organize drainage on the site. Double-layer pipes have a smooth inner surface, so debris does not get stuck in the drainage system.

Double-layer pipes have greater rigidity, so they can be laid at a depth of up to 6 meters. If single-layer structures are used, they are used at a depth of 2 meters. When connecting the described elements, the same fittings are used that are used for PVC pipes. It is worth remembering that adhesive tape is not suitable for attaching such products, as it does not hold the materials securely.

The principle of operation of the drainage system

If the site is located in a wetland or near a body of water, then a drainage system should be installed around the entire site. This will drain water away from the foundation of the house and make the land suitable for planting crops.

The operating principle of the drainage system is as follows:

surface and groundwater enter perforated pipes and are discharged into the sewerage system;
After entering the sewer, the water is discharged into a drainage well.

There are a few things to keep in mind while working:

The efficiency of drainage depends on the correctly selected pipe diameter. If there is a lot of water in the area, you should choose the largest pipes.
Drainage pipes with perforations, the diameter of which is 110 mm, are capable of collecting moisture from the ground within a radius of about 5 meters. This figure should be taken into account when drawing up a plan for the sewerage system.
In order for water to be removed more efficiently, it is necessary to lay the entire drainage system on a slope. The drainage well should be located below all other elements of the system.
During installation, it is necessary to cover perforated pipes.

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How the drainage system works and types of drainage

There are several main types of drainage:

Surface drainage.
Deep drainage.
Reservoir drainage.
Wall drainage.

Surface drainage is carried out to protect the site from flooding by surface water. In this case, the depth of the trenches is no more than 50 cm.

Formative drainage usually consists of a layer of sand up to 30cm thick, with strips of crushed stone spaced several meters apart, which can be laid under the entire building.

Wall drainage is used to protect basements and foundations from flooding.

The procedure for constructing a drainage system

To install drainage, first of all, establish at what level the groundwater is in relation to the depth of the foundations and to the soil surface. The exact level of groundwater can be determined using engineering surveys, but if this is not possible, then information can be obtained by interviewing neighbors, especially if their houses have basements.

If groundwater rises to less than 2.5 meters from the ground surface, then drainage must be performed.

Drainage trench construction technology

The procedure for constructing a drainage trench is as follows:

First, fill the bottom with coarse sand in a 50mm thick layer.
Lay the drainage pipe with a slope of 0.002 (2 mm per 1 linear meter) in clay soils and 0.003 (3 mm per 1 linear meter) in sandy soils. If the lowest point of the drainage is located with a difference of several meters from the level of the site, then it is better to make a slope of up to 5-10mm per 1 linear meter. Wrap the drainage pipe with a special fabric - geotextile and cover it with a layer of washed gravel, fraction 10-20mm, 30-40cm thick.
Next, lay another layer of coarse sand 10-20cm thick. Top fill the entire structure with soil previously removed from the trench. Cover the top of the trench with a layer of turf to prevent silting of the drain.
Lay the pipes, as in a regular sewer, in straight lines, and install inspection and rotary wells at turns.

How to make wall drainage and garden protection

Wall drainage is designed to protect house foundations and basement walls from flooding.

When installing wall drainage, apply adhesive waterproofing on the wall using a “Drainiz” type material, which consists of a polymer waterproof and filtering geotextile layer.

Materials for drainage systems

Modern manufacturers now offer a large selection of polyethylene, plastic and PVC pipes with ready-made perforations. When choosing pipes with ready-made perforation, you need to know that plastic pipes can be laid at a depth of no more than 1 meter, polyethylene pipes no more than 3 meters, PVC pipes have the greatest strength and can be used at great depths - up to 10 m.

By following all these instructions, you will be able to make drainage with your own hands on your site.

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Features and principle of operation of drainage pipes with perforation

Perforated drainage pipes are the basis of deep drainage.

Thanks to the use of precisely such pipes that remove well excess moisture from the soil, you can maintain the required water balance.

At the same time, the territory of the site and the house will be protected from negative influence waterlogging, which occurs during heavy rainfall and high groundwater levels.

Perforated pipe is a high-performance product that today is most often made from plastic, namely HDPE and PVC.

Plastic is distinguished by the highest quality and durability, reliability and affordable price, which has led the material to a leading position in the ranking.

It has successfully replaced ceramics and asbestos cement and has become the material of choice for all modern developers and construction companies.

Such pipes are the best option for installing a drainage system in a private house or cottage.

They will provide excellent drainage of water from the territory and will deliver excess moisture to special tanks, ditches or artificially created wells.

Features and principle of operation of drainage pipes without perforation

This material can be used absolutely everywhere, since it has the highest technical and quality characteristics.

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Prerequisites for organizing drainage

Drainage is an expensive system, even if you don’t have to pay for the services of specialists and the owner of the site is ready to do all the work himself. Therefore, you should figure out how much it is needed at all.

The need for a system cannot be determined by eye, because groundwater may lie close to the surface, which becomes a real problem only during floods or heavy rains.

Many areas are located in lowlands. Waterlogged soil causes roots to rot, which creates many difficulties when caring for your garden.

Plants are often affected by fungal diseases and are “eaten” by mold. Some crops do not take root in wet soil, and the crop rots on the vine.

Dense clay soils do not absorb water well. This leads to frequent flooding of underground parts of buildings. Due to the high degree of mineralization, flood and atmospheric waters negatively affect buildings: they destroy building materials and provoke corrosion.

Even high-quality waterproofing is not able to 100% prevent basements, foundations, and plinths from getting wet. As a result, buildings last much less than they could.

You can determine whether drainage is needed on a site based on several signs:

Terrain. Areas located in lowlands and on steep slopes, need a drainage system. Otherwise, fertile soils may be washed away or flooded during rains and floods.
Puddles. Flat terrain is convenient for construction, but puddles can appear on it and remain for a long time. This is a clear sign that water is poorly absorbed into the soil. A drainage system should be installed throughout the site.
Rotting of the root system of plants. If excess liquid remains in gardens, flower beds and lawns, the plants become damp and become sick.
Moisture-loving plants. If one or more species of moisture-loving plants grow on the site, this clearly indicates waterlogging of the soil.
Flooding of basements and cellars. An obvious “symptom” of the need for drainage is flooding of foundations and underground building structures.
Hydrogeological studies and observations. If experts have determined that the site has a high groundwater level, or similar conclusions can be reached during excavation work, care should be taken about soil drainage.

Proper laying of drainage pipes on the site is the only way to inexpensively and effectively get rid of excess water.

If you contact a specialized company, the system will cost significantly more. It is better to understand the features of drainage arrangement and do everything yourself.

The principle of the drainage system

Soil drainage on the site can be closed immersed in the ground, and open, which is a network of open grooves.

In the first case, the system is designed to drain groundwater if it floods the area. In the second, drainage ensures a decrease in soil moisture during the flood and rainy season.

Both types of systems can be designed and installed in-house.

Depending on whether it is necessary to collect moisture from the entire site or only from certain zones, drainage is installed with linear and point water intakes.

Systems of the first type require careful design; when installing them, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the laying technology and the slope angle of the drainage pipes.

IN linear options, the need arises if you need to drain areas around buildings, paths, entrances, improve the local area or remove excess moisture from the garden.

Such drains are shallow ditches into which water flows and then moves to special receiving tanks, storm drains, or to a discharge point off-site.

Point water collectors It is also imperative to accurately calculate and design in advance. They serve to collect water locally, but are connected to a similar linear system of ditches or pipes.

Through the indicated drainage channels, the collected water is discharged in the same way into a collector well and then into an absorption well, drainage ditch or pond. Therefore, work on installing systems with point water intakes is not much different from systems with linear options.

Open systems They are very simple to implement and cheap, but they spoil the landscape with an unaesthetic appearance. Another disadvantage is that the walls of the ditches have to be constantly adjusted, because they crumble under the influence of moisture, and the system ceases to perform its functions (water stagnates at the bottom of the trenches and does not move to the discharge point).

To solve the problem of crumbling ditch walls, you can use the crushed stone filling method: coarse material is placed on the bottom, and fine material is placed on top, after which the entire drainage pad is covered with turf.

This option allows you not to trim or strengthen the walls of the trenches, but it is suitable for areas with relatively low humidity, because The capacity of the ditch is greatly reduced.

The use of polymer and concrete trays in the construction of open drainage greatly facilitates and speeds up the work. In order to improve the landscape and protect systems from clogging, such open systems covered with cast iron grates.

For arrangement closed system special perforated pipes are used - drains, laid to the depth of the foundation. They are placed in pre-formed ditches and covered with material with excellent filtering properties, gravel, small crushed stone or GPS. To monitor the operation of the system and carry out periodic cleaning, inspection wells are installed in the corners of the building.

When determining how to properly lay a drainage pipe to protect plants from excess moisture, you can use average values. As a rule, the optimal depth is 0.6-1.5 m.

Moreover, for flower beds, lawns, beds, it does not exceed 0.9 m, and to protect the rhizomes of trees, you need to dig the deepest trenches, especially if the site is located on peat soils.

Types and parameters for choosing drainage pipes

From all materials for making pipes the most popular polymers. Their undeniable advantages are durability, resistance to chemicals and smooth internal walls to which dirt does not stick. Stormwater and groundwater flow into the pipeline and move freely to the reservoirs by gravity.

Drainage system assembled from modern materials, can serve up to half a century. The main thing is to install it correctly, carry out technical inspections on time and not ignore the need for repairs.

Another advantage of polymers is their relatively low cost, because the finished drainage is inexpensive, practical and durable.

Perfect solution - pipe covered with geotextile. The outer material filters water, trapping dirt. Thanks to this, the pipelines do not become silted.

Alternative to drainage pipes - ordinary sewer. You can easily make drainage from them yourself - to do this, just drill holes in the products and wrap them with geotextile fabric on top.

If a local drainage system is required, you can get by with pipes with a diameter of 100-200 mm, and if you need to remove moisture from a large area or there is too much water, it is better to choose products with a diameter of 300-400 mm. The optimal choice is special drainage pipe with filter casing.

Pipeline laying technology

When arranging drainage, the topography of the site is of fundamental importance. The system must be built so that there are no problems with the outflow of liquid into the ditches. If there are no results of geodetic research, you should draw up a diagram yourself, marking on it the places where rainwater drains.

When creating a diagram, you need to be careful, because mistakes will result in ineffective drainage. Based on the finished drawing, they outline how to lay and tilt the drainage pipe and where to install the catch basins. After checking the data, they mark the area and begin work.

The pipeline is led to a drainage well. If it is long and located on a flat area, inspection wells are installed at each 50 m section. They are also needed in places where the pipeline turns and bends, where the slope changes.

You can also build a drainage well with your own hands. It consists of a bottom, a shaft with a neck and a hatch. The dimensions of the well must be large enough so that a person can go down into it and clean it of silt. If it is not possible to equip a large well, then it should be equipped in such a way that you can wash the walls with a hose and scoop out the dirt.

Concrete, plastic, and brick can be used as materials for making wells.

The strongest and most durable structures are made of reinforced concrete well rings. They have a large diameter and are easy to maintain. The downside is that it is difficult to install due to its large mass. As a rule, it is necessary to attract assistants or use special equipment.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

When developing a scheme and during the construction of drainage, some difficulties may arise. To prevent them from becoming an obstacle to the quality drainage of water from the site, check out the useful video materials.

Features of the arrangement of the drainage system on the site:

How to arrange drainage in a dacha using improvised means:

Features of arranging drainage in the garden:

Design of a drainage well made of polymers:

How to properly lay drainage pipes:

Laying a drainage pipe with your own hands will require time and effort, but the costs will only be for materials. Don't skimp on them: buy good quality pipes and wells. Efficient system drainage system will protect crops, houses, and outbuildings from moisture and will last for many years. The main thing is not to forget to inspect and clean wells and drains in a timely manner.

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The reliability and efficiency of the drainage sewer system directly depends on both the correctly drawn up project and the choice of its elements. Perforated drainage pipes must be laid in accordance with the technical procedure and connected accordingly.

Almost all perforated HDPE drainage pipes have a corrugated surface. This design allows for small wall thicknesses without loss of rigidity. Therefore, even large-diameter products have relatively low weight. This greatly simplifies installation when it is necessary to organize drainage of the area.

Photo: perforated pipe from manufacturer Ruvinil

Pipes for drainage systems equipped with perforations are available in two-layer and single-layer types. For the former, the internal surface is made smooth in order to facilitate the movement of debris (sand, earth particles, etc.) that enters the sewer system. This reduces the likelihood of the pipe becoming clogged.

In single-layer pipes, both surfaces (internal and external) are corrugated. This design option allows for greater flexibility, so single-wall structures are excellent for organizing drainage in an area near the house.

Due to their greater rigidity, double-layer pipes for drainage systems can be laid to a depth of up to six meters. For single-layer structures, the limit is two meters.

When connecting elements of the drainage system, the same fittings are used as for conventional PVC pipes. Despite the fact that the sewerage system is considered non-pressure, it is not recommended to use adhesive tape to fasten pipes, as some “masters” suggest. The reliability of such fastening is rather doubtful.

Drainage fittings

Almost all pipes for drainage systems are equipped with filter elements. There is a certain limitation regarding their shelf life. For example, perforated drainage pipes with geotextiles installed in the filter can be stored in a warehouse for up to one year.

For material based on coconut fibers, this period is limited to six months.

The site may be located in a wetland, wet lowland or near a reservoir, that is, in places that do not meet the accepted standard. In this case, a drainage system is installed around the house and site.

This solution will provide reliable protection to the foundation, and will also prevent rain and groundwater from accumulating in the surrounding area.

The operating principle of the drainage system is as follows:

surface and groundwater enter the sewerage system through perforated holes in a pipe buried in the soil;
along it they are diverted to a place of accumulation or disposal (for example, a drainage or collector well).

Those who are planning to make a drainage system with their own hands need to pay attention to the following points:

from the right choice the diameter of the pipe determines the efficiency of drainage;
a perforated drainage pipe with a diameter of 110 mm collects water within a radius of five meters (this should be taken into account when planning a drainage system);
to drain groundwater, it is necessary to maintain a slope towards the septic tank or drainage well;
when connecting all elements of the system, you should adhere to the technology of this process;
It is imperative that pipes are sprinkled when they are laid, and we must also not forget about the drainage layer.

The correct installation of drainage pipe around the house is shown in the figure.

Symbols shown in the figure:

A – bulk soil or turf;
B – waterproof layer (a polyethylene film can play this role);
C – thermal insulation layer, recommended thickness 100mm;
D – slope angle, usually one centimeter per meter (towards the storage well);
E – filler;
F – waterproofing coating building basement;
G, K – drainage layer;
H – storm sewer;
J – drainage system pipe;
L – hole in the base of the foundation.

Theoretically, it is possible to organize a drainage system without a ditch, but its efficiency will be low, so we will not consider this option.

When the main drainage system passes under a road surface intended for heavy vehicle traffic, GOST specifies that the laying depth must be at least a meter. In this case, a “cushion” of at least 50 mm thickness is created under the pipe. The composition of the leveling layer (cushion) can be made of sand or crushed stone with a fraction size of up to 32 mm.

Pipes with thin walls are laid in places where they will not be subject to high loads, that is, near the house or in the area adjacent to it.

Crushed stone and sand are used as coating, layer thickness from 50mm. Its purpose is to protect the drainage line from mechanical damage and, at the same time, not prevent groundwater from entering the system.

A prerequisite is to equip it with geotextiles or geofabric, which act as a filter that does not allow debris to enter the system. It may cause clogging. A pipe is wrapped with geofabric, or a filter casing is placed on the bottom and walls of the ditch.

It is recommended to use a pipeline with a diameter of 110 mm; this is the best option for organizing drainage in the area near the house. Despite the fact that the price for double perforated pipes is higher than for single ones, it is better to buy them for the drainage system. In this case, there is less risk of clogging.

To ensure high efficiency in removing water from the soil, it is necessary to install a separate well, the lid of which is best made with a lattice. It will be supplied with water from a storm sewer. In this case, you don’t have to worry about filling the septic tank.

The drainage system must be independent of the stormwater system, otherwise there is a high risk of flooding the building foundation with water. In this case, the large diameter of a double (smooth-walled) drainage pipe will not save the situation.

As a rule, storm and drainage sewers are laid side by side, maintaining the same slope angle. Each of them can be directed into a common well if a reverse-acting valve is installed on its inlet pipe. It will prevent water from entering the drainage system.

The design of such a valve is shown in the figure.

Check valve diagram

A – valve that opens under the influence of the incoming flow;
B – valve spring;
C – working flow (in our case, water from storm or drainage sewers).

It is advisable to drain water from collector wells into the municipal storm sewer system. If this is not possible, water can be supplied to an open drain, or drained onto a specially prepared layer of crushed stone, where it will be absorbed by the soil.

Laying a collector well

There are many options for recycling water accumulated by drainage and storm wells; examples of implementation are a separate topic.

Perforated drainage pipes require periodic maintenance, which consists of removing debris. In addition, it will be necessary to clean the collector well from the accumulation of silt. Then check the correct position of the check valve.

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Drainage pipes: what they are and how they work

They are also called drains. They perform the functions of receiving and discharging water, which are so necessary and important for draining the area. A system of interconnected drains is called drainage.

The principle of their operation is simple and clear, so land owners most often make the drainage system on their own. Drains are laid along or around the site (building) with a slope of 1% (1 cm per meter) towards any drainage basin (ditch, collector well, pit, canal, reservoir) or the lowest point of the area. Gravel, sand and soil are poured on top.

Drains can be drainage (suction) and collecting. There are holes on the walls of the drainage pipes located in in a certain order. It is through the walls and connection points that water enters the drains and is transferred to collectors (drainage wells), and from there through collecting cavities it is discharged beyond the boundaries of the drained area. In this way, a sufficiently thick, dry, stable piece of land is formed.

Types of drainage pipes

In the modern world, with the advent of new technologies, the requirements for drainage systems are constantly growing. The use of outdated schemes and materials is impractical and difficult.

Asbestos-cement pipes, as well as ceramic ones, are already a thing of the past. They have been replaced by plastic drainage materials - lightweight, comfortable, flexible, non-corrosive, reliable, safe and durable. They can withstand high temperature fluctuations (-70 to +50°C) and are easy to install, so you can easily install them yourself. For their manufacture use:

Viniplast or UPVC (unplasticized polyvinyl chloride);
polyethylene HDPE and PVC (low and high density).

Where are drainage pipes used?

Drainage pipes have found application not only in everyday life for draining excess groundwater from foundations and plinths and constructing drainage wells, but also in civil and industrial construction (land reclamation, laying highways). For each case, it is necessary to correctly select the dimensions and manufacturing technology of the elements.

Dimensions

When choosing drainage pipes, it is important to correctly determine their size. The performance of the entire system depends on the diameter of the drains. For domestic needs, materials Ø 200 mm will be sufficient, and to drain a large volume of water, pipes Ø 300–400 mm will be needed. The most common are elements with a diameter of 110 mm.

To accurately determine the size, you need to consider:

soil texture;
level of soil freezing and moisture;
planned volumes of drainage;
pipe laying depth (for each diameter there is a maximum permissible depth);
trench width. It should be 40 cm larger than the diameter of the pipe.

Drains with a diameter of over 300–400 mm are considered industrial; in everyday life they are used to build wells. The drainage system does not always consist of elements of the same diameter; in this case, a reducer (adapter) will be needed for the connection.

Design Features

The main difference between a drain and a regular pipe is the presence of perforation (partial or complete). With full perforation, 1.3 mm holes are located every 60° around the circumference cross section. Partial perforation provides three slotted holes in the upper part of the shell. Holes are made between the corrugations (stiffeners) which ensure the rigidity and durability of the system.

To create shallow drainage, where materials are laid to a shallow depth, single-layer corrugated drains with a stiffness class of 2–4 kN/m² are perfect.

Double-layer drains, which have high strength and stiffness class, are usually used to solve more global problems, requiring deep laying. In places with a high probability of clogging (sand, small grains of soil), drains with a filter layer or special filter material are used.

Types of drainage pipes

To create a drainage system, you can use the following types:

ceramic;
asbestos-cement;
polymer.

The first two types are used less and less over the years. This is due to their high cost and short service life.

Polymer pipes have a number of advantages, the main ones being the low cost of layout and operation, long service life and the ability to make a drainage system yourself.

Perforated pipes

Almost all polymer pipes have a corrugated surface and thin walls. Therefore, drainage products even of large diameter have little weight, which facilitates the organization of drainage in general.

Can I make the perforation myself? It is possible, but not advisable, unless you are an expert in strength materials and higher mathematics. Factory perforation is thought out to the smallest detail and has ideal geometry. If made in a makeshift manner, it will be unreliable - the slightest mistake can affect the operation of the entire system and lead to the formation of a swamp instead of reclamation.

The holes are made in the form of narrow and long slits to minimize the entry of debris into the pipes. The number of such slots per circle is almost the same for all manufacturers:

360° - the holes are located generally around the entire circumference. Such perforation is used in heavily flooded areas with approximately equal amounts of groundwater and precipitation;
240° - the lower segment in 1/3 of the perimeter of the section circle remains unperforated. These pipes have proven to work well as drainage bases in areas with heterogeneous soil or natural slope;
180° - commonly called half, it is used in areas where one type of water exceeds another (for example, there is much more melt water than ground water or vice versa) or as an application to storm drains;
120° - an infrequently used configuration, used for low-volume surface drainage.

The main advantage of perforated pipes is that they work over the entire surface. This guarantees efficient drainage, clean channels and drains.

Pipes in geotextiles

Geotextile is a braid for perforated elements that protects the holes from clogging. Drains in such a braid are well suited for loamy and sandy soils. For household drainage pipes, geotextiles with a density of 100–200 g/m² are used, although it can also be denser - up to 600 g/m².

The higher the density, the higher the price, so geotextile fabric should be selected rationally so as not to unnecessarily increase the cost of drainage work. Except drainage geotextile Other varieties are also available: road and needle-punched, so if you buy this material separately, pay attention to its purpose.

Key functions of geotextile braid:

reinforcement - strengthening the bearing capacity of the base;
surface protection - preventing (or limiting) damage to the working part of the pipe;
drainage - collection and removal of precipitation and groundwater;
filtration of impurities - retention of sand and soil (anti-suffusion screen).

Ceramic pipes

Produced from lamellar clay with possible additives. There are perforated ceramic pipes with a corrugated outer surface (grooves increase absorption properties).

According to GOST standards, three types of pipes are produced: cylindrical, hexagonal or octagonal. All varieties have a geometrically regular cross-sectional shape:

inner contour - circle;
the outer contour is a polygon or circle.

Ceramic pipes do not have sockets. In drainage systems they are connected to each other using couplings and clamps.

HDPE pipes

HDPE is probably the best pipe for modern drainage systems. They are characterized by an increased service life (50 years), strength (withstands freezing of water), and elasticity. A wide variety of connecting elements and fittings are produced for plastic pipes, so they can be used to build a system of any length and configuration. Such drains are the basis of underground drainage.

They have good throughput, are multifunctional, therefore they are successfully used in private, civil and industrial construction. HDPE can be perforated on all sides, only on top or with alternating rows of holes and a smooth surface.

The principle of operation and the process of laying them is the same as for other types of pipes.

Experienced builders advise using corrugated HDPE pipes for greater efficiency, laying them in crushed stone.

Polypropylene pipes

Polypropylene drains are very popular because of their properties:

long service life and high stability;
ability to withstand high loads and strong pressure in the system;
ease of transportation and assembly;
good self-cleaning due to smooth walls inside;
resistance to clogging and flooding.

To connect them, thermal welding (soldering iron) is required, but PP pipes connected in this way form a monolithic structure. And this is their main advantage.

In a word, drainage polypropylene materials are an impeccable ratio of price and quality.

Pipes with coconut winding

Coconut fiber is a type of filter material. This harness has its pros and cons:

100% natural composition;
high resistance to deformation, rotting and mold;
elasticity;
excellent moisture permeability;
reliable protection against clogging;
the ability to standardize (bring together) the drainage system with stormwater and sewerage.

The only disadvantage worth noting is the considerable price. However, taking into account the many positive qualities and the period for which the system will be laid in the ground, it is worth paying the most serious attention to drainage materials with coconut coating.

PVC pipes

Made from polyvinyl chloride. Like all drainage materials, they are used to drain the area, drain water from the upper layers of roads, and protect buildings from excessive moisture. They are used mainly for deep drainage, since such modifications, according to the standards, have a good laying depth (up to 10 m from the surface) and have:

high strength;
resistance to various chemical elements;
good warranty from the manufacturer.

The only drawback is that these products are very sensitive to shocks in cold weather and can be deformed, so transporting them in cold weather is difficult; it must be done very carefully to avoid losses.

Pipes with expanded polystyrene

Drainage pipes filled with expanded polystyrene are suitable for a wide range of applications. This is an excellent alternative to other types polymer materials, which are recommended to be laid in crushed stone. Crushed stone is not needed here unless it is part of the support structure.

When choosing, you should consider:

the length of the entire drainage system and its throughput;
ground water level;
catchment area;
expected water pressure into and out of the system;
soil type and permeability.

An undoubted advantage of such pipes is that their length can be easily reduced using available wire, a clamp or rope.

Chrysotile cement pipes

Chrysotile is white asbestos, environmentally friendly without any toxic or harmful impurities. It is not dangerous to human health, so pipes made from it are used when setting up a wide variety of pipelines, including drainage systems.

A distinctive feature of such products is the penetration of water not through holes in the walls, but through pores. They can be used in any soil: cohesive, non-cohesive, acidic and alkaline, with high mineralization.

excellent water permeability;
long service life (over 25 years);
high strength: withstand high pressure (up to 5.8 MPa) and strong mechanical stress;
increased laying depth;
simple and clear connections;
affordable prices and optimal level of cross-country ability.

Disadvantages: transportation, movement and assembly of large diameter pipes requires special construction equipment, which makes installation expensive

Drainage pipe manufacturers

The construction market offers a huge range of imported and domestic drainage products. Among our manufacturers, the most famous companies are Ruvinil, Nashorn, Politek, KamaPolymer LLC and others. Polieco, Uponor, Wavin and Rehau products are popular among foreign suppliers.

Pipes for drainage "Perfokor"

Perforated polyethylene products. Designed for the assembly of high-quality drainage systems. They have increased resistance to aggressive atmospheric conditions due to the double wall, white inside (smooth) and black outside (corrugated). The rigidity of the rings ranges from SN4 (in 50-meter coils) to SN8 (in 6-meter sections).

They are produced in Russia according to the standards prescribed in technical specifications 2248–004–73011750–2007. For different diameters it is possible to use a wide range of Korsis shaped parts (bends, tees, couplings, adapters, plastic wells), and drains Ø 110–160 mm are perfectly connected without the use of O-rings using ECOPAL couplings.

Korsis drainage pipes

Specialized for the installation of storm drains and non-pressure sewerage. Made from polyethylene High Quality according to the standards of technical specifications 2248–001–73011750–2005, they have a double wall - black corrugated on the outside and white smooth on the inside (or yellow for contours PR-2 and PR-3).

Corsys shaped components are used to connect the system. Moreover, elements of large diameter (from 250 mm to 1200 mm) are produced with an already welded socket, so only one sealing ring is used during assembly. Pipes of smaller diameter are connected with a Korsis coupling and two rubber O-ring seals.

The main manufacturer is the POLIPLASTIC group, which has its own facilities in many regions of Russia, Kazakhstan, Belarus and Ukraine.

Pragma drainage pipes

This is a development by PipiLife for the needs of storm, municipal and industrial drainage, for drainage during road construction. The material is a special type of polypropylene (PP-b), which is slightly vulnerable to impacts and can withstand powerful drains and large temperature differences (-60°C to +100°C). This is where Pragma drains compare favorably with PVC pipes.

The high ring stiffness of 8 kN/m² makes them indispensable in particularly difficult laying conditions. The undoubted advantages of Pragma materials: they are easy to install, easy to cut and seamlessly connect with each other, with HDPE and PVC pipes, smooth-walled sewer lines, as well as with polymer and concrete wells. Assembly and installation do not require the use of heavy construction equipment, which allows saving on construction and installation work.

Softrock drainage pipes

Produced using technology from the foreign company SoftRock. Areas of application: closed drainage of septic tank, land plot, basement, foundation, roof drainage. They quickly gained popularity. The main advantage is that working with them is simple and fast. The SoftRock drainage system consists of a flexible perforated pipe with polystyrene foam filling Russian production(“cube”) or imported (“hedgehog”). The SoftRock design eliminates the need for crushed stone and increases the efficiency of the drainage system by 20–50%.

Video: installation of the Softrock drainage system

Pipes for storm drainage

Storm drain pipes will help drain melt and rainwater away from the building. They, together with gutters, trays and storm inlets, form above-ground or underground storm drainage systems and ensure the safety and durability of the structure. Requirements for materials: strength, resistance to solar and mechanical influences, sedimentary reagents, temperature changes.

For the construction of drains, cast iron, polymer or reinforced concrete pipes are used (laying under roads). It is important to choose the correct diameter so that the storm drains do not overflow. For private houses, sewer pipes Ø 100 mm are used.

Drainage pipes for drainage of groundwater

They are the basis of drainage systems. They collect water and remove it off site. They help cope with high soil moisture, dampness in cellars, the appearance of mold and frost, the formation of puddles and ice on paved surfaces, and prevent rotting of the root system of plants.

Waterproofing (foundation, walls) is not always effective. An effective drainage system is needed. When choosing its design, first determine the type of soil and only then start purchasing material. To ensure that the drainage network operates smoothly, drains are placed at a specially calculated depth. To do this, two conditions must be met:

lay pipes below the ground freezing level;
lay at least 50 cm deeper than the bottom mark of the base of buildings (near which drainage is carried out).

For deep installation, use pipes with increased strength (double-sided pipe).

Table: drainage for different soils

Do-it-yourself drainage pipe installation

A large accumulation of groundwater can cause irreparable damage, for example, flooding the foundation, as a result of which a house built seemingly for centuries will shrink. There will be a distortion of the roof, walls, doors and windows. Excessive humidity will affect the health of those living in the house, because in the most damp places Mold and mildew will constantly form. You can avoid all this by installing even the simplest, but high-quality drainage system.

Ditch preparation:
- First, all the ditches and the location for the collector well into which groundwater will be discharged are marked. There must be a slope towards the water intake, otherwise the water will stagnate in the pipes. If the surface of the site is uneven, then ditches are dug according to the relief. On a flat surface, the slope is created artificially;
- the number of trenches depends on the type of soil and the degree of its moisture. On clay soils, drains are laid more often. The depth of the ditches depends on the type of drainage, but not less than 0.5 m, the width increases as they approach the catchment area (well);
- When the trenches are dug, the bottom is prepared for laying materials. They create a shock-absorbing cushion - a 10-centimeter layer of granular sand and on top the same layer of crushed stone, on which drains are placed in a geotextile winding (for other types of drains, geotextiles are laid in such a way that when backfilling they cover the pipes).
Pipe laying and system assembly. The drainage is laid out in ditches and connected to each other using shaped products(crosses, tees, couplings), forming a single network. After laying the pipes and assembling the system, you need to make a control check of the slope using an ordinary household cord stretched along the line of passage of the elements. At turning points and where the slope angle changes, inspection wells with covers must be installed to clean the entire system.
Connecting drainage elements to each other. The most important thing when connecting is good sealing:
- one of the most simple ways- landing PVC pipes for glue: the grease-free surface of the joint with a smaller diameter is coated with glue, the elements are connected, and the joint is once again treated with moisture-resistant glue;
- You can use heat welding (only for polypropylene types): the joints are heated, the pipes are joined and left to cool. Molten polypropylene, when solidified, provides good tightness;
- Small diameter elements can be connected with compressor fittings and turnbuckles. The quality of the connection is not inferior in strength to welding.
Perform backfilling. After checking the operation of the system, it is backfilled (if the system closed type). For better water permeability, the pipes are sprinkled with gravel or crushed stone, covered with geotextiles, and then with a layer of sand (10–15 cm). The soil is poured on top above the soil level. Precipitation will pass, snow will fall, and over time the earth mounds will settle and become level with the surface of the site. The open drainage system is decorated with crushed stone of different sizes. If last layer decorate with marble chips and plant plants along the edges of the ditches, you will get a unique landscape design.

Video: do-it-yourself open drainage from pipes and scrap iron

Cleaning drainage pipes

A clogged drainage system is not able to fully perform its functions, so it is important to periodically clean it to get rid of limescale build-up inside.

Mechanical method

Apply different methods depending on the location of the system. If it lies on the surface, then you can clean it manually yourself. For deep drainage, you will need a pneumatic installation with a cleaning roller and a special attachment for crushing large build-ups. Cleaning should be done every 3-4 years.