This review is dedicated to those who do not like to throw away things that are still working. It seems that some nonsense has broken, but the thing has become partially functional and can no longer perform its main function. Buying new thing, and the broken one is put away until better times (the desire to repair it, come up with something)… This review is about how to turn a blender into almost a Dremel.
History: my mother-in-law had a Ufesa blender. Something like this. 
Served faithfully for several years, until one day she decided to cook with it mashed potatoes. But it was impossible to do this for this model of blender, since the adapter coupling from the motor to the blade shaft is made of plastic. Due to the temperature, this clutch simply turned and stopped transmitting rotation. The motor works, but the knives do not rotate. The nozzle is non-separable. 
The coupling was removed from the shaft and I went to repair shops looking for a replacement. As it turned out, they don’t make such spare parts, they don’t repair such faults, and in general they advised me to buy a new one, since this model is no longer produced. So a new blender appeared... And the broken one went to the bins to await its fate, where it could be adapted...
And then one day, wandering through the expanses of Aliexpress in the DIY sections, I came across these motor cartridges. This chuck allows you to clamp drills from 0.3 to 4 mm. 
Adapters for different shaft diameters were also sold there.
Bingo! The diameter of the motor shaft was measured and a cartridge with an adapter for a 5mm shaft was ordered.
After some time, I received an envelope with a cartridge, a key, a hexagon and an adapter. 
Now it was the patient's turn.
There is no fastening visible from the outside, so I had to start with the button. 
The button is held on by latches. In attempts to remove the button, the push rod of the button itself was broken. However, we will not need it in the future. 
Under the button there was a single fastening screw for Torx. 
The screw was unscrewed normally flat screwdriver and the cover is removed. Upon removal, it turned out that there were still two plastic loops at the outlet... 
The inclusion was carried out in this way. The button rod pressed on the spring-loaded contact, when closed, 220V was supplied to the control circuit and the motor turned on. 
This button is not very convenient when working with a Dremel; you need to keep it pressed constantly. Therefore, we will replace the button with a key switch.
Let's mark a hole for it. 
A hole is cut and the edges are processed. 
The button is desoldered from the board. 
and solder a switch on the wires. 
The final trigger mechanism. 
The motor itself can be pulled out of the clamping contacts without any problems. 
IMPORTANT Remember which side the motor is installed on. If you install the motor on the other side (rotating the motor 180 degrees around the axis of rotation), the contacts will change and the motor will rotate in the other direction.
If anyone needs such functionality, then it is enough to install a switching toggle switch that changes these contacts. 
Close-up of the output shaft. 
All that remains is to attach the adapter to the shaft. 
insert the sleeve with buttons. You don’t have to return this sleeve with the buttons to its place, then through the holes for the buttons there will be access to the screws securing the adapter to the shaft. But I thought it looked more aesthetically pleasing with closed holes. 
And place the cartridge itself on the adapter.
We close the case. 
Due to the shape of the body, such a Dremel cannot be mounted on a table, only held in your hands. However, I also have a regular Dremel with a clamp.
Runout test according to the method from the comments.
Let me end the story here. I'm planning to buy +30 Add to favorites I liked the review +134 +190
We decided to make squash caviar. The question arose: how to chop zucchini?
Blender too small and weak for such tasks, and the meat grinder is not able to grind into a homogeneous paste.
Small lumps remain, and the caviar turns out to be grainy. Therefore, I decided to make a large and powerful blender from a drill, which every homemade person has.
The design turned out to be so simple that it does not require any drawings and is literally done “on the knee”.
Materials and tools
- Drill. (every DIYer has one);
- PVC pipe 50 mm (plumbing store);
- PVC pipe plug 50 mm. (ibid.)
- Metal chrome tube with a diameter of 16 mm (magazine furniture fittings);
- Plastic dowels 14 and 8 mm. (building materials store);
- Self-tapping screws 16 mm with a wide head (ibid.);
- Screws M8 and M6. (ibid.);
- Blades for mounting knife (household goods);
- 50 mm clamp (ibid.);
- Empty tin can (trash can)
Making a blender
The blender consists of 3 nodes.1 - drive, 2 - housing, 3 - blade shaft.
Since the drive is an ordinary drill, we will consider the remaining 2 nodes.
Making a knife shaft
Since the knife shaft is the most labor-intensive, we’ll start with it.The most optimal solution, this is cut into one end of a rod with a diameter of 9 mm internal thread M6 to a depth of 20 mm. Unfortunately, not everyone has access to lathe(can be done without a lathe, but it’s troublesome), therefore there is a second, very technologically advanced option. At the end of a steel tube with a diameter of 10 mm. hammer in a plastic dowel with a diameter of 8 mm. And screw an M6 screw with knives into it. But I have never seen steel tubes with a diameter of 10 mm on sale anywhere. Therefore, those for whom the first and second options are unacceptable choose the third. This is using a 16 mm tube, which can be purchased at any furniture hardware store. You should buy the one with the thickest walls. Because they are different...
A 14 mm dowel is driven into one end of this tube. and the next dowel is hammered into this dowel 8 mm and into the dowel 8 mm. The M6 screw is screwed in. Since it is impossible to clamp a 16 mm tube directly into the chuck of an ordinary drill, we also hammer a 14 mm dowel into which an M8 screw is screwed into the opposite end. Leave 30 mm of protruding screw for clamping in the drill chuck, cut off the rest. Only in this option it is necessary to take into account that optimal length the knife shaft (without knives and the part that is clamped in the chuck) is 100 mm, and the length of the 14 mm dowel is 80 mm.
it makes sense to shorten the dowels to 50 mm.
We've sorted out the tube, now it's time to attach the knives. On an M6 screw with a wide flat head, we put 4 blades for the mounting knife, broken off to the required length, through washers (I used 2 washers between each knives). We arrange the knives crosswise and tighten them with a nut. We screw this screw with knives into the 8 mm dowel. It screws in quite tightly, but holds securely. So, the knife shaft is ready.
Case manufacturing
The body is made from PVC pipes 50 mm diameter, plugs for this pipe, and tin can. And another clamp.
We cut off the thickening from the pipe socket for rubber cuff because it won't be needed.
Next, take a suitable shallow empty tin can and drill a 1-2 mm hole in the center of the bottom. greater than the diameter of the knife shaft. We drill the same hole in the center of the plug. Along the perimeter of the can we drill several holes with a diameter of 10 - 12 mm to allow the ground mass to exit (Drilling holes in a tin can is much more convenient feather drills on wood). We combine the tin can with the plug and secure it with self-tapping screws.
We place a pipe on the plug and also secure it with self-tapping screws. To ensure that the pipe fits tightly onto the plug, several turns of electrical tape should be wound around the plug.
We measure the length of the knife shaft fixed in the chuck and adjust the body to this size. In the upper part we make 2 slots 30 mm deep.
Because the inner diameter The pipes are slightly larger than the diameter of the drill neck; we need a gasket, which we will make from the remainder of the same pipe. We cut a ring 20 mm high and cut out a 15 mm section from this ring. Glue the ring with inside extension cord so it doesn't get lost.
We glue it to one point so that it can be compressed. Next, we attach the extension to the neck of the drill (or simply measure it with a ruler, which is somewhat more accurate:), mark the location of the key hole on it, and drill it with a 20 mm drill.
The body is ready.
By the way, I forgot to write. If you don’t have a suitable empty tin can at home, you can replace it with any suitable lid, or use a plug for a 100 mm pipe. Which will look much more “branded” :)
We put the body on the drill, without securing it completely yet, insert the knife shaft into the previously spread cams, turn the body until the hole for the key on the body coincides with the socket on the chuck, tighten the shaft with a key, and finally secure the body with a clamp.
All. As they say, the design does not require adjustment and starts working immediately when turned on.
It also grinds potatoes into a homogeneous mass for hash browns, which previously had to be manually grated on a fine grater, because the meat grinder leaves lumps, apples for applesauce, crushes nuts for cookies, and much more.
P.S. Since I had a steel tube with a diameter of 10 mm, which I cut from another leaky heated towel rail before throwing it away, I used the second option when making the blade shaft.
How to make a blender with your hands
You, budget angle grinders, simply called an angle grinder, do not have adjustable electronic modules in their design, where the engine speed controller does not include smooth start. Owners of such grinders after a while begin to understand that their absence sharply reduces the functionality of the tool. Here the angle grinder is modified by installing homemade devices on its surface.
Why do you need a speed controller and soft start?
When power is applied to the grinder motor, sudden increase in speed from zero to ten thousand no more. Those who have worked with an angle grinder know well that it is sometimes difficult to hold it in the palm of your hand when starting, especially if it is installed.
It is precisely because of such abrupt increases in engine speed that the mechanics of the device burn out.
Also, during startup, a huge load is applied to the rotor winding and not the stator winding of the electric motor. Since a commutator motor is installed in the grinder, it starts working in the mode: the electromagnetic field is already “trying” to turn the rotor, but it remains motionless for a couple of months, since the force of inertia does not allow this to be done. As a result, the starting current in the motor coils sharply increases. Despite the fact that the manufacturer has invested a certain safety margin for the coils, taking into account overloads at start, sooner or later the insulation cannot withstand it, which leads to an interturn short circuit.
In addition to problems with starting, the absence causes some discomfort. Nettle, the grinder's speed regulator may come in handy at certain types works:
- when grinding, as it is also called, polishing any surfaces;
- for installing large diameter tools;
- for cutting certain materials.
Today, with brushes, there is a high probability of the wire jamming in any gap. If the spindle speed was high, then the angle grinder may simply be torn out of your hands.
If you connect a power (speed) regulator with a module to the angle grinder soft start, then the problems described above will disappear, the device will increase in size and the safety of its use will not increase.
Homemade regulator circuit
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One of the most popular schemes for an angle grinder engine with the ability to adjust the speed is presented below.
The basis of this regulator is the KR118PM1 microcircuit, and in addition triacs, which are the power part of the device. Using this circuit, you can make a power regulator yourself, even without special knowledge in radio electronics. The main thing is that you know how to use a soldering iron.
This block works like this.
- After pressing the unit start button electricity begins to flow, first of all, to the chip (DA1).
- The control capacitor begins to charge smoothly, but after a couple of weeks it reaches the required voltage. Therefore, the opening of thyristors in the microcircuit occurs with some delay. Similar to oil depends on the time it takes to fully charge the capacitor.
- Since triac VS1 is located in microcircuits that work under thyristors, it opens just as smoothly.
How to make a BLENDER with your own hands
alteration drills into the drive blender.
The processes described above occur in periods that become shorter each time. Therefore, the voltage supplied to the motor windings does not increase abruptly, but slowly, resulting in a smooth start of the angle grinder.
The time it takes for the electric motor to reach full speed depends on the capacitance of capacitor C2. The capacitor capacity of forty seven microfarads allows you to start the engine in two seconds. When the angle grinder is turned off, capacitor C1 is discharged using sixty kOhm resistor R1 for three seconds, after which this electronic module is again ready to start.
If resistor R1 is replaced with a variable one, then you will get a speed controller that will allow you to reduce engine speed.
It is important that triac VS1 has the following characteristics:
- the minimum current for which it is designed should be twenty five A;
- the triac must be designed for maximum voltage four hundred V.
This circuit and the regulators made according to it have been repeatedly tested by many craftsmen on grinders with power up to two thousand watts. It is worth noting that this device, thanks to the KR118PM1 microcircuit, is designed for power up to five thousand W. So he has a considerable margin of safety.
Ideally, to solder an angle grinder, you will need to draw printed circuit board, etch the contacts with acid and then tin them, and solder the radio components. But everything can be made simpler:
- solder all the parts of the circuit by weight, that is, leg to leg;
- Attach a radiator to the triac (can be made from sheet aluminum).
A regulator soldered in this way will occupy less space, and it can be easily placed in the body of the angle grinder.
How to connect a regulator to an angle grinder
To connect homemade regulator power does not require special knowledge, and any House master will cope with this task. The module is being installed into a break in one wire, through which power goes to the grinder. That is, one wire remains intact, and a regulator is soldered into the gap of the second.
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In the same way, you can connect a factory power regulator that costs about one ruble, which is often purchased by craftsmen in China.
If there is very little space in the grinder, then the regulator can be placed outside the instrument, as shown in the following photo.
Also, the regulator can be placed in a socket and used to reduce the speed not only of an angle grinder, but also of other electrical appliances (drill, sharpener, milling or wood cutting machine, etc.). This is done as follows.
- Purchase from an electrical store junction box(suitable with dimensions 65x65x50 mm).
- You should also buy an outdoor socket small sizes and a power cable with an electrical plug.
- In the side wall distribution box drill a hole to insert a variable resistor regulator into it.
- Factory regulator board or homemade device located inside the distribution box. All protruding parts in the box that interfere with installation can be cut off.
- The socket should be secured to the cover of the distribution box, having first pulled the wires inside the latter.
- In the picture above you can see that the wires network cable touch the radiator, which heats up during operation. That's why it's wearing a PVC tube. But it’s better if you drill a hole for the network cable in a different place to prevent it from coming into contact with the radiator.
The regulator is connected as described above - at a break in one of the wires of the power cable.
On the following photos shows what a finished outlet will look like, having a built-in speed controller for an angle grinder, which can also be used for other electrical appliances.
Instead of a junction box, you can use any plastic case suitable size. You can also make the box yourself by gluing pieces of plastic together with a glue gun.
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From time to time, even the strongest and most independent woman who does not like to cook wants to feel like a real cook.
Inspiration for culinary feats can strike a woman at any time; the lack of a mixer should not prevent her from achieving them.
As a rule, such a desire is not limited to simple scrambled eggs; you definitely want something like that. For example, make a mind-blowing bizet, but, as luck would have it, there was no mixer at hand, without which it is simply impossible to beat the egg whites properly. A sudden creative impulse should not be suppressed simply by the lack of a mixer. Homemade mixers can be for the kitchen, children's or construction.
If you have a whisk, then a regular drill can save the situation.
Homemade kitchen mixer
Quite by ourselves. For this you will need:
- First of all, you need to get a motor. It must be powerful enough to handle egg white, we won’t talk about products with a harder consistency for now. A suitable motor can be obtained from an old cassette player, for example.
- Tin. Everything is simpler here, you can cut a piece from a can of any drink.
- Plastic lid from a jar.
- A pair of plastic cups.
- You will also need a switch.
- The power supply is selected depending on the power of the motor.
- And of course, all this will be done using a regular screwdriver.
One of the motor options
Capacity and drive
It's time to take action. We start with a glass in which we need to make a small hole. To do this, heat the metal end of the screwdriver using matches or a lighter, then use the heated tip to make a hole right in the center of the bottom of the cup.
Next, place the motor in the center of the glass and trace its edges with a marker, thus marking where it will be located. While the engine is moved to the side and manipulations with the glass continue. That is, it is clear that the mixer body is assembled first.
Now you need to cut a hole along the lines marked with a marker. stationery knife at the bottom of the glass in which the motor will be placed. The motor should fit snugly in the hole and not fall out of it, so the size of the hole should be slightly smaller than the motor.
This motor will be more than enough
Power and communications
Now you need to prepare a place for the switch and wiring. If the power supply has two wires, then one is attached to the switch and the other to the motor. Then the switch and gearbox are connected to each other using a piece of copper wire.
This creates a kind of mixer body. In order not to worry that the structure will fall apart, you can secure the motor and switch with superglue.
Screw
Let's move on to the second step. A tin can is needed to make a screw. To do this, fold a thin piece cut from a jar into a ring, and wrap a second similar piece in the middle of the resulting ring, so that you end up with a figure resembling a butterfly. We received the screw, now we attach a silicone nozzle to it with glue, which will be put on the pin.
For now, set the tin aside until the glue dries. Let's return again to the body with the motor. Place the glass cut side down. Here you will need a second glass, in which a hole has already been made in advance using a screwdriver. It needs to be installed on top of the motor. The result is a design in the form of a cup on a stand. In the center of the cup there is a pin, about a centimeter long, pre-glued to the motor.
During this time, the glue on the screw should have completely dried. We attach it to the pin. Done, now you can try. Place in a glass with a screw necessary ingredients, cover plastic cover to mix without splashing, and turn on the mixer.
Homemade doll mixer
Every child enters the age when he wants to be like an adult, necessary, responsible, to do the same things as adults; girls during this period more often copy the behavior of their mothers, and boys of their fathers. The child shows interest in household chores, including trying to help parents in the kitchen. However, not everyone household appliances Children are allowed. For example, a mixer is not a safe toy at all and improper use can lead to tragic consequences.
You can get out of this situation so that the child remains happy and the parents calm. Namely, build your own mixer for him. For this you will need:
- Plastic tube.
- Electric motor.
- Any two wires.
- Batteries or portable power supply.
- USB cable
- Small switch.
Making such a simple device will not be difficult, and the child will be satisfied not only with the result, but also with the assembly process itself. And an adult will enjoy creating something with his own hands from available materials; you can feel like the host of the “Crazy Hands” program.
So, we start by gluing the switch using a silicone gun or superglue to the motor. Next, take a USB cable, cut off one side of it to free the wiring, and remove the rubberized base from the wiring by about two centimeters. There should be two wires. We connect one to the motor, the other to the switch. After which, the switch and the motor are connected to each other copper wire. It is better to secure the wires with a soldering iron, but if you don’t have one at hand, you can simply tighten them properly.
Children love it when something is made especially for them; they will appreciate this more than the most expensive toy.
Now it’s time for the drinking straw, cut it into two pieces 6 centimeters long. Glue them together well lengthwise. A motor is attached to the lower part of the connected tubes. While the glue dries, take hold of the stirring element. To do this you will need a simple lollipop stick. A quarter of the stick needs to be bent in such a way that the letter “G” is formed from the stick. Using the straight tip, attach the stick to the pin at the base of the mixer. Ready. We connect the USB cable to a portable battery or any other energy source and press the switch. This miniature mixer will cope with mixing tea or eggs, and the child’s delight will know no bounds.
DIY construction mixer
The repair process is very labor-intensive and sometimes you can’t keep track of everything. For example, you need to mix concrete mortar, everything has already been purchased and ready, when suddenly it turns out that the construction mixer is out of order or is not there at all. What to do in such a situation? Run to the store? But extra expenses cannot always be foreseen and there may simply not be funds for such a purchase. You can get out of this situation by making a concrete mixer yourself. For this mixer you will need:
- Drill.
- Hairpin 8, 40 cm long.
- Four metal plates.
- Nuts and washers.
So, the work begins with the hairpin. It needs to be sharpened in such a way that it is convenient to screw on the nut. On the other hand, you need to grind down the pin for the triangle. This is necessary in order to properly attach it to the drill.
Next we get to work on the plates. Using an 8 mm drill, you need to make one more hole from the edge on each. Now you can proceed to assembling the mixer. A nut, a washer, and then a plate are installed along the length of the stud. The distance should be at least three centimeters. The top and bottom plates need to be bent according to the principle of blades.
It should look something like this
The second end of the pin is attached to the drill, that's it, the construction mixer is ready. However, this type of homemade construction mixers Only a small volume of mortars will handle.
Such a mixer will not cope with large volumes of work.
For mixing more liquid substances, e.g. paint will do and this option
For large quantity solution, you will need a concrete mixer, which you can also make yourself, but this will require much more time and materials, so it will be easier to borrow from friends or use rental services. Moreover, such a device brings more benefits when it is completely independent than when it requires constant supervision. In this case, it is better to choose the gravitational method of mixing the solution.
An example of a self-made concrete mixer
The main thing to remember is that when assembling any mixer, you must follow safety precautions, and if you do not have confidence in your abilities, then it is better not to take on such painstaking work, but to go to the store and buy a decent product.
Typically, we throw away kitchen appliances that are no longer functional. Take, for example, a blender that is past its expiration date; there's really no other way for him other than to be trashed. However, don't throw away that broken blender!
This DIY project is for you if you think that throwing away broken equipment is a waste. In the video below you will learn how to use an old blender and repurpose it to become a decent drill or even an engraver!
The blender motor is powerful enough to handle light drilling and engraving jobs, so instead of throwing away your blender, why not repurpose it so you can still use it for your future projects? Watch the video of Evgeniy Budilov and how he successfully converted his old kitchen blender into another useful tool.
Don't throw away your blender! Repurposing old products at home is one way to save money, in addition to reducing waste in environment and gives you additional tool for home use.
The video below shows how you can turn an unwanted blender into a mini electric drill or engraver. Thank you very much creator of the video “Evgeniy Budilov”.
In this video you will see how an old blender can make a decent engraver, drill or hand drill machine. As shown, the motor is powerful enough to handle wood, plastic and soft metal. RPM figures are nothing short of good... Budilov