Arranging a summer house is a constant process. Either you build something or improve it. Moreover, furniture is constantly needed and tables are most in demand in the country. And put it in the garden, and near the house, and also in . We will tell you how to make a table for a summer house with your own hands in this article using the example of ready-made projects.
Homemade table from pallet boards
The material for this table was disassembled pallets. Naturally, you can use new boards. There is only one condition - they must be dry. You can buy dry ones (this costs more) or buy regular ones, put them somewhere in ventilated stacks and keep them for at least 4 months, or better yet, six months. In general, any furniture, including, is made from dry wood.
We are assembling a table for the street - to put it in a gazebo, so we will not glue the boards of the tabletop, but will fasten them from below, using planks. This is a very simple country table and very cheap.
Having disassembled the pallets, we get boards with individual colors and patterns. Having worked a little magic, rearranging them several dozen times in different ways, we achieve the required result. It turns out to be quite a nice tabletop.
Take the side parts of the pallet. We use them for the table frame. We first sand them with coarse sandpaper, then fine sand them to the required smoothness (grain 120 and 220).
We take the planks that remained unused and use them to fasten the tabletop. We place them in the place where the joints of the boards are located. We use two screws to fasten each board with a joint, and one for a solid one.
From the treated sidewalls and two boards (also sanded) we assemble the table frame. We fasten its parts with self-tapping screws at the end (two for each joint). The frame can be glued or also “planted” on self-tapping screws. Only they are long. For each, we pre-drill holes with a drill whose diameter is slightly smaller than the diameter of the screws.
We turn the assembled tabletop over and sand it. The procedure is the same - first use sandpaper with coarse grains, then with fine grains.
Next is installing the legs. We select four boards of the same size, check their length, and adjust if necessary. Then - sanding again. This is easier than sanding the legs that are already screwed on. We screw the sanded boards to the frame. These will be the legs. For each there are two self-tapping screws, fixed diagonally (look at the photo). For greater stability, we install jumpers at the bottom. You can leave about 10 cm from the floor to the lintels. We connect everything with self-tapping screws, so that the boards do not crack, we pre-drill holes.
After removing the dust, varnish again. In theory, the varnish should lie flat, but it depends on the wood, so another sanding/painting cycle may be needed. As a result, we get this homemade country table.
If you don’t like mismatched boards and traces of old nails, you can make the same design into boards. This table can be rectangular, or square. All sizes are arbitrary - please see the space available.
Country table made from leftover boards
This DIY garden table is assembled from the remains of boards of different types and sizes. Pine boards 25 mm thick and 50 mm wide were used for the tabletop frame, and 15*50 mm leftovers for the legs. We make the frame according to the dimensions you need. This table will stand on the veranda, which is small in width. So let's make it narrow - 60 cm, and length 140 cm. The height of the legs is 80 cm (everyone in the family is tall).
Immediately cut two long boards of 140 cm each. To make the tabletop width 60 cm, subtract twice the thickness of the board used - this is 5 cm. Short bars should be 60 cm - 5 cm = 55 cm. Fold the frame, following right angles, twist with self-tapping screws. We check whether the bars are folded correctly - we measure the diagonals, they should be the same.
We cut the boards into four 80 cm boards and attach them from the inside to the assembled frame. You can use 4 screws for each leg.
At approximately the middle of the height of the legs we attach the crossbars. This is a frame for a shelf. The shelf can be used for its intended purpose, and it also increases the rigidity of the structure. We fasten strictly at right angles, checking with a large square.
We put the frame on the floor and check whether it wobbles or not. If everything is done correctly, it should stand rigidly. Next, take sandpaper or a sander and sand.
Let's start assembling the tabletop. From finishing works There were boards of different types of wood left, some painted with stain. We alternate boards of different colors.
We fasten the tabletop boards with finishing nails, carefully finishing them off with a hammer. You can secure it to the shelf with regular nails or self-tapping screws. Then we smooth it out with a sander. Final stage- painting. Very unlucky with the choice of varnish. We bought it too dark and didn’t like the look. I'll have to sand it again and paint it a different color.
Wooden table with glued top
This design features L-shaped legs. They are assembled from boards of the same thickness. IN in this case 20 mm. In order for them to hold well, 5 self-tapping screws are needed. We pre-drill holes with a drill with a diameter 1-2 mm smaller than the diameter of the screws. Then, using a drill of a larger diameter, we drill recesses for the caps. Diameter can be matched to furniture plugs suitable color or make them from a wooden rod. Another option is to use wood putty, to which you add wood dust that remains after sanding. After drying and sanding, the marks will be difficult to find.
When assembling the legs, you must ensure that the angle is exactly 90°. You can choose timber as a pattern. First, coat the joint of the two parts of the leg with wood glue, then install the screws in the following sequence: first the two outer ones, then the middle one, and only then the other two. After the glue has dried, we sand the legs, varnish them and dry them.
It's time to make the tabletop. We assemble it from boards of the same thickness. We select the size as needed. You can use fragments different widths. It is only important that everything looks organic, and that the sides of the boards are smooth and fit together without gaps.
We coat the sides of the boards selected for the tabletop with glue, lay them on a flat surface (some kind of table) and tighten them with clamps. In this case, we got by with one, but preferably at least three. We tighten it so that there are no gaps in the resulting shield. Leave it for a day. Having removed the clamps, we get an almost finished tabletop. It still needs to be trimmed - to align the edges, and then sand it. You can trim with a jigsaw or regular hand saw. Using an angle grinder it is difficult to obtain straight line, but you can try. After sanding we get a beautiful tabletop.
Using the same technique, you can make an oval or round tabletop. You just need to draw the appropriate line and trim the glued boards along it.
To make the table look more attractive, we will make a frame. We take a thin strip, sand it with sandpaper and fasten it around the perimeter of the tabletop. You can also use finishing nails. Only we also first coat the planks with wood glue, and then with nails.
After the glue has dried, we sand the joint again with sandpaper.
Now you can attach the table legs. We assemble a table frame from four boards (there is no photo, but you can do it as in the previous paragraph). We attach it to the back side of the tabletop with glue, then install furniture confirmations through the tabletop. A preliminary hole with an extension for the cap is drilled for the confirmations. The holes for fasteners are masked in the same way as on the legs.
We attach the legs to the fixed frame. We place them inside the frame. You can attach it with regular self-tapping screws. That's it, we made a table for the garden with our own hands.
How to make a garden table from wood with benches
For this table we used 38*89 mm boards (we unraveled them ourselves), but you can take standard sizes. A difference of millimeters will not greatly affect the results. In the photo below you can see what should happen.
To connect the parts, 16 cm long studs with washers and nuts (24 pieces) were used. All other connections are made with nails 80 mm long.
The parts are installed in place, drilled with a drill through hole. A stud is installed in it, washers are put on both sides and the nuts are tightened. Everything is catching up wrench. Why is this option convenient? For the winter you can disassemble it and take it to a barn or garage.
Making seats
According to the drawing, we cut the boards to the required size. Everything is needed in double quantities - for two seats. We sand the boards, pay special attention to the ends.
The short sections that we use to fasten the three boards of the seat along the edges are cut at an angle of 45°. First, we assemble the structure that is attached to the seat from below. We take a board about 160 cm long, and attach two short boards sawn at an angle to the end of it. You need to attach it so that this board is in the middle.
Then we attach the legs to the resulting structure (you can use nails). Then we add more boards cut at an angle and tighten everything with studs and bolts.
We attach the seat boards to the resulting structure. Since this is an outdoor table, there is no need to knock them together closely. Leave a gap between two adjacent ones of at least 5 mm. We nail it to the supports (which have been sawn down), two for each board.
We fasten the finished seats using four boards 160 cm long. We fasten each leg with hairpins (if you walk, you can put two hairpins, installing them diagonally or one above the other).
Assembling the table
The table is assembled according to a different principle. Please note that for the tabletop, the transverse boards along the edges are cut at 52°. We attach them at such a distance that the legs fit in. 2 nails for each board. You can use finishing ones, with small heads, or you can drive them deep and then mask the holes with putty.
Now we need to assemble the cross legs. We take two boards, cross them so that the distance between their ends is 64.5 cm. We outline the intersection with a pencil. At this point you will need to remove the wood to half the thickness of the board.
We make the same notch on the second board. If you fold them, they turn out to be in the same plane. We connect with four nails.
We make the second table leg in the same way. We are not assembling the table yet.
Installing the table
Now you need to attach the legs to the structure on which the benches are installed. We place them at an equal distance from the benches and fasten them with pins.
Now we install the tabletop. We also fasten it with pins. The last stage is painting. Here everyone does as he pleases.
Variations on a theme
According to this drawing, you can make separate benches and a table for a summer house or garden. The design is reliable and simple to implement.
DIY garden table: drawings
Since ancient times, round tables have been considered a symbol of equality and unification of all those present. The round table is easy to use and practical - there are no problems or questions about who will sit on the corner. Solid oak tables are luxurious pieces of furniture, but they are not always convenient for daily use.
A round table is usually made of oak or pine.
A great option is to make a folding round table with your own hands, which can be adjusted in size and folded from time to time so that it does not take up space in small room.
How to make a round table for your home?
To prepare the table shape, you need following materials and tools:
- ruler;
- pencil;
- scissors;
- glue;
- large compass;
- whatman.
The material from which the table will be made can be absolutely any. If you are new to this business, you can use coniferous wood, and if you have already dealt with wood and know how to work with extreme care and quality, use oak or mahogany.
Use PVA glue to connect several large sheets(whatman). Now, using a compass, draw a circle of the required size.
If you do not have a suitable compass, you can use any round element or make a compass from 2 bars or sticks, attaching a pencil to one of them and an awl (or any sharp object) to the other.
When you have an even drawing, trim off all the excess paper (don't throw it away, you'll need it later!). Fold the resulting circle in half 4 times so that the circle is divided into 8 small triangles. Now we retreat 5-6 cm from the bases of the triangles and connect the points with straight lines along the entire circumference.
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Share onA table is the second item after a stool that a novice amateur furniture maker should take on. Design simple table no more difficult than a stool; unassuming comfortable table for a summer cottage or for a picnic you can build it in half a day using a hacksaw, hammer and drill. But a table made using the same technology and slightly refined can look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensive one. However, the table also gives greater freedom of creative expression; it can be a significant and even key element of interior design; it is not for nothing that artisanal furniture makers are called carpenters, and not sofa makers, cabinet makers or nightstand makers. Having become proficient in carpentry, you will eventually be able to take on exclusive tables and other positions. right there.
This article discusses how to make tables from wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic advantages. In utilitarian products, it forgives beginners quite serious mistakes, but fine work woodworking requires high skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, it will be much easier to master glass, metal and plastic.
Tool and workshop
To make a table with your own hands, you need a separate living rooms production room: Woodworking is notoriously dusty. In addition, such good means of tinting and protecting wood as stains emit harmful fumes during the staining process; nitro varnishes too, although to a lesser extent. Therefore, home carpentry should be well ventilated, or better yet, with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and it will not be good for the car. Better to work in a barn; if it doesn’t exist yet, then you can build it, and it will be useful for a lot of things on the farm.
An ordinary carpenter's tool, on the left in the figure, will be enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better, if you get help modern achievements, right there:
- Rotary miter box, pos. 1, allows you to make cuts exactly to size and angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with the complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper, and the work will be more accurate. A miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
- Also versatile manual jigsaw with tilting shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
- Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, gives a beginner the opportunity in 5-15 minutes to obtain the surface of a wooden surface, which would take an experienced carpenter with sandpaper in hand at least an hour to achieve, and a tape one, pos. 5, also process ends quickly and efficiently; There are also belt sanders for grooves and recesses with a protruding working body. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other work, and quite expensive, so it’s better to rent them first. True, craftsmen still successfully brush with grinders, i.e. They artificially age the wood, but this is delicate work.
- It is also preferable at first to rent a manual wood router, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. They process shaped edges and select holes and grooves.
In general, a universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) of various modifications is very useful on the farm. It is compact, fits on the table, power supply – 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines a circular saw, a jointer, a wood lathe and a set of cutters. True, you can’t just turn the table legs on it; the reach of the tailstock caliper is too small. But the caliper itself is just steel round pipe, it is not difficult to lengthen it. The cutter stop remains standard, it is movable, the leg and the long support are sharpened in one setting.
How to choose a tree?
A wooden table can be made from any wood of average resistance to decay, except for the softest species: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailanthus. Domestic ones include:
The breeds are listed in order of availability. For example, timber harvesting of horse chestnut, plane tree and juniper is not carried out at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in southern regions, and juniper is endangered and protected. Industrial harvests of elm are almost entirely used for shoe lasts, weaving shuttles, etc., and rowan berries are used for weapon stocks; There is no full-fledged plastic replacement for them yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, and does not renew itself well, so its harvesting is strictly regulated, and its wood is expensive.
Note: Walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent toughness, the most openwork carving It doesn't hurt the nut. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.
At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. The countertop will be pine or oak; birch - on the legs of a pine table; in the countertop it warps a lot from spills. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.
For a pine tabletop made from boards, you can and even should use low-grade cheap boards - knotty, twisted ones. But, of course, without falling knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, traces of rot on black (ebony) wood may be whitish or yellowish.
Why is there substandard quality on the countertop? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished using a circular saw and jointer? And after skillful processing, they turn out to be layers of remarkable beauty, on the left in Fig. Manufacturers do not like such wood: the production cycle is delayed and waste increases. But for yourself, doing it yourself is not so scary compared to the result.
Wooden pot
Commercial pine has a clearly defined wood zonation in the form of annual growth rings; in other conifers and many hardwood she is there too. On the cut of the board, the rings form the so-called. hump in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in Fig. in the center, then when joining the shield for the tabletop (see below), the boards are oriented with their humps alternately up and down, from below in Fig. If the humps are directed towards the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with their humps in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the tabletop does not crack or warp.
Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue
A free way to protect wood from rotting is used motor oil, but for what you eat, this is not the best option. Impregnation with water-polymer emulsion (WPE) twice, with a break of 3-5 days, would be optimal; it will provide protection to the table for the entire duration of its life. Even birch plywood impregnated with EPE is suitable for furniture front panels: coated with varnish on top, it does not delaminate.
Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually going out of use: they are superior in all respects to water-based acrylic varnishes; In addition, they are safe to use. Also, glues, bone carpentry and BF-2 with alcohol are inferior to PVA; True, to obtain a high-quality seam, the latter requires applying glue to both surfaces, keeping them touch-free before joining and keeping them under pressure for 1-3 days, but in home production this is acceptable for yourself.
Wood for furniture can be tinted in advance and protected with stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. To tint the assembled units, you can use paints based on the same varnish and artistic (not painting!) dyes: oil in tubes for NC varnishes and acrylic water-based for the same varnish.
First, prepare the “painting”: take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it while continuously stirring thoroughly with a painting brush. The paint is stored in a tightly closed bottle and added to the varnish to the desired tone; A test for it is made on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by the complete drying of the varnish. Colored varnishes based on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the mixing rules oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.
First steps
The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If there are 1-2 brick pallets left from the construction site, then a table made from pallets will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.
From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, you get a garden table like a coffee table, on the left in Fig. If you have a pair in stock, you can make a wall-mounted work desk-rack out of them in literally half an hour, in the center and on the right. You can also weave chains for it yourself from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To fully raise the tabletop, small tools are placed on the shelf of a wall pallet.
With a little more work, a prefabricated cutting table for the dacha is made from one pallet, allowing you to move the summer-autumn harvesting campaign outside without littering with husks and without trampling on stalks. For the winter, this table is assembled into a compact package. The design is clear from Fig; Place a bucket under the hatch in the countertop.
The next in order of complexity is the well-known country trestle table, in common parlance a goat. Its structure of 40 mm boards is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right is a country folding table based on the same principle. It has articulated joints (M8-M12 bolts, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place marked in green, a stop boss is placed on nails between the crossbars of the table top. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it’s also suitable for going on a picnic. If this is not expected, or the trunk is larger, the table top can be made longer.
Finally, a gazebo table also does not require any special tools or skills, see fig. below. The material is the same magpie board and some inexpensive fasteners.
One step closer to art...
To advance in table building, you now need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. A table, in general, consists of a table top, its supporting frame, possibly with niches and/or mechanisms, or simply a plate - a base - legs, and the nodes that hold everything together. Let's go through them starting with the connections along with the legs, because... their fastening is the weakest point of the table.
Connections and legs
At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled using quick-drying glue that does not require curing: wood glue, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, to connect thin boards, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off heads are used, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries out, but the metal does not, and over time the connection becomes loose.
For dowels, use thin-layered wood that is stronger than both parts being connected, i.e. the hardest rocks. A pine table on birch legs can be connected with oak or beech dowels. There are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels on sale; Before use, the edges of the dowels are chamfered. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, eg. inserts in sliding tables.
The legs are attached to industrial tables with detachable drawers, see fig. on right. The item marked in yellow is the simplest, cheapest and worst. Buyers of Shiroptrebov Soviet furniture are well aware of its shortcomings and complete lack of advantages, let it remain there. Reliable, holds well, except for the legs, and the boards of the underframe, drawers with mortise jibs, “green” pos. They also require the least cost, but are quite labor-intensive, so they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. The drawbar with a shaped steel jib, at the top right in the figure, is even stronger; In this way, you can attach legs with a round head and any legs in general, but you need purchased shaped parts made of high-quality steel.
Note: The legs are attached to the round table as shown below in Fig.
Detachable legs are needed not only for ease of storage and transportation. IN small apartment with a narrow corridor, it is often simply impossible to push a table with legs into the living room, no matter how you turn it. Modern apartments more spacious, and in 1-story private houses the table can be brought in/out through the window, so in such cases the strength and durability of a table with tightly secured legs comes to the fore.
For tables on a rectangular base, the heads of the legs for blind fastening must also be rectangular, pos. 1 in Fig. By the way, the drawers can also be one-piece: then the legs have dowels that pass through a mortise wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with dogwood or boxwood wedges inserted across the grain of the jib wood. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that you can fight with these 200-year-old tables by grabbing the legs.
Enough quality tables on turned legs, simply assembled on dowels, pos. 2. For simpler tables, the legs are made of timber and fastened with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and lighter are the legs from a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. To prevent them from clinging to the floor, you need to put thrust bearings on them below or put the table on wheels.
Tabletop
The easiest, but not the cheapest, option is to order a countertop made of laminated chipboard (chipboard, laminate). Laminated chipboard for countertops is produced in the form of so-called. postforming - 3.6x1.2 m slabs 20-60 mm thick with a decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the lower edge has a drip tray, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is completely environmentally friendly, no matter what those who don’t want to forget the furniture, which stank of phenol for months, gossip about.
Postforming is well purchased by small furniture enterprises. They always have his waste; They will gladly cut your tabletop to size for you at an affordable price if the company has a jig cutting machine. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. The finished slab will be edged, i.e. will cover PVC end edging (edge). If you do the edging yourself (sometimes they ask for an absurd extra payment for edging), then keep in mind:
- The upper and lower flanges of the edging have different profiles, see on the left in Fig. Mix it up and there will always be a dirt edging on the table.
- The edging must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the slab. You can put a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm slab, but it will soon slide off.
- The groove for the edging ridge must be selected using a manual disk cutter; No one seems to have done it properly with a saw yet.
- Before installing the edging, apply to the surface of the end thin layer silicone sealant and the “sausage” is squeezed into the groove; in this case, the silicone will also act as a lubricant, without which the edge ridge may simply become wrinkled.
- The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows of the mallet, gradually moving along the contour. The tabletop should lie face up on the support; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately wiped off with a clean rag lightly moistened with table vinegar.
Plank tabletops are held together in plank frames with wedges and spacers - wedges. It’s quite possible to make the vamps yourself; You need 3-4 per tabletop. The boards (cheeks) of the weim are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. In Fig. for example, the process of making a round tabletop; The rectangular one is put together in the same way, only cutting it to size is easier. The shield is attached to the tabletop using glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are tongue-and-groove, dowels are not needed. When rallying on PVA, the next plot is kept until the applied glue comes off before installing it in the clamp.
Countertops are often assembled without rims on a plaza - a flat surface covered with plastic film. It will not be possible to assemble a good board panel on the plaza: either it will come out cracked, or the boards will stand on end when assembling it. But stacked tabletops from fragments are obtained in in capable hands simply wonderful. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. – tabletop made from sawing waste, tinted with stain. And at pos. 4-5 The base of the tabletop was the platform itself, made of thick plywood. The tile and its chips are glued with tile adhesive, then the depressions are filled with grout, the surface is varnished and the outline is outlined with a wooden strip edge.
Note: These examples do not illustrate all the possibilities of making inlaid artistic tabletops with your own hands.
Underframe
The table base with non-removable legs is a simple wooden frame, on the left in Fig. Niches and parts of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the tabletop is removable/extendable, or large operating loads are expected (for example, a work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffening ribs in the center. If the legs are attached with drawers, then the underframe is made integral with the tabletop to create a single power circuit, on the right in Fig.
Without frame
Tables without an underframe are also known, in which the tabletop and legs work in a single supporting system. Very durable, e.g. plywood table on the left in the figure; its connections are dowel. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. In mass production, the waste is not very large, but a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm or more will be used in one piece for large sidewalls, and another 1 piece for smaller ones. The table on the right is quite possible to make with your own hands: the load-bearing frame is prefabricated; connections - in a tenon with a tightening bolt and half a tree. However, the tabletop in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right corners.
... and we find ourselves in the kitchen
Exactly. The kitchen table is the next in order of complexity after the simplest country tables. It should already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average size; the width of the place for 1 eater/rider is 60-80 cm, depending on its corpulence, the width of the tabletop is at least 70 cm. The aesthetic appearance is very desirable, but is not decisive: suddenly you messed up with the decoration, that’s why the tablecloth. The countertop should be easy to clean, durable, and resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.
All these requirements will be satisfied by a table made of chipboard on metal legs; They are also sold separately in sets of 4 pieces, with fasteners, on the left in Fig. Factory-made table legs are usually equipped with height-adjustable heels. A table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the leg sockets with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% less than a completely purchased one, and in appearance it will not be inferior to it, on the right in Fig.
If you are not too lazy to put your hands to it, you can make steel legs with your own hands. It is not only cheaper, but also more durable option: the sockets of the branded legs are cast from rather fragile silumin; the fastenings weaken over time and need to be tightened. You can cut out the nests yourself from good steel, and weld the very legs into them.
In a larger kitchen, there may be room for a larger table. In such a case, follow up. rice. Rustic style kitchen table plans. This table is “rustic” not only in appearance: it does not have a single nail or metal fasteners at all. Just wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing this, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the tabletop, you will also have to assemble the panels for the sidewalls, but in this case the extra work is worth it.
Kruglyashi
Table with round table top appropriate in any room if it fits there. But a table top made of boards in this case is not the best option: due to the presence of sharp corners, without a frame, which is very complex and labor-intensive, it is susceptible to splitting. Composite countertops made from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free from this drawback; Unlike laminate roundels, they are decorative, stylish, unique and practically free.
There are even more sharp corners in a finely-set countertop, but here the “broom law” comes into play. Not the American Senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of complete oblivion about it at home, but that broom that is used to sweep away trash. As you know, it is impossible to break it (the broom, not the senator) when tied, but even a child will break it twig by twig. So here, thanks to the ease of distributing loads between small fragments, a table top assembled from them works like a solid slab, and after assembly you can cut it even “Zu”.
Note: The idea of the senator-broom, sorry, Broom, was brought to mind by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world famous as Mark Twain: “I assert, and I undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more imagination than a bull. But not the bull that moos in the pasture, but the one that supports the bridge.”
How to make a semi-folding round table is shown in the figure; On the right there are the tabletop dimensions and assembly order. And in Fig. Above on the right is a small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - a business table. Its feature is the minimum number of connections; assembly with glue. Any round piece will fit on the tabletop, from a cut tree stump to a cardboard one, made according to the method of making cardboard shelves, but the underframe must be durable, made of wood (two-hundred-piece board) or laminated chipboard.
Let's go further: to the living room
The table in the main room of the house should suit the whole house. At the same time, with the modern desire for laconic design (which also saves costs on living space), the table should, for the time being, not be conspicuous and occupy smaller place. Therefore, one of the most popular pieces of furniture these days has become a transforming table.
The simplest transformable table, which, despite all its transformations, remains a table and does not turn into a closet or bed - a table-bedside table; It is quite possible to make it yourself “from scratch”. There are 2 options that are most common here. On the left in Fig. – the table is unfoldable, it has a record ratio of occupied space in expanded and collapsed form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the tabletop wings lowered, it will serve as a bar. By lifting the wings one at a time, you can get a kitchen or everyday dining table, and when fully deployed (in the center), it will provide space for a fairly crowded banquet.
For a bachelor living in a small apartment, a folding table-bedside table, on the right in Fig. These are essentially 2 small round folding tables described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can have lunch with one folded one, because, unlike the previous option, there is somewhere to put your legs. And when you turn it around, spend a romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or intimate gatherings with friends.
All the above qualities are combined in transforming coffee and dining tables with a mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables, which are always tables, they mainly come down to 2 types: elevator (pantograph) and book. How they both work, see the video:
Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although a lot depends on the quality of execution. Book lovers are more popular because a book-like mechanism can still be made independently, but an elevator outside production conditions is unlikely.
How the book-table unfolds is shown step by step in Fig. on right. To make it yourself, you need to know that the key unit is the damping-balancing elastic link. Quite expensive branded designs use very softly operating gas dampers (gas lifts), but for an amateur it is better to opt for a spring damper, and not because gas lift is much more expensive.
The fact is that the gas lift must be coordinated within fairly narrow limits with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the tabletop, underframe and the dead weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened/loosened; as a last resort, replace it. In general, an unsuccessful homemade transforming table with gas lifts can rarely be “brought to fruition,” but a spring table almost always does. If you still decide to suffer with a homemade acrobat table, in Fig. – drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.
Without the availability of drilling, turning and metal milling machines or access to them, most parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $50-$60. A factory-made transforming coffee table rarely costs less than $200, so even in this situation the savings are significant.
The transforming table is made to fit the mechanism. One of the most popular are Mazetti transformation mechanisms, due to their good quality at a moderate price for this class of products. In addition, Mazetti mechanisms are produced in a supporting frame (inset in the center in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. Other pos. in Fig. show the structure and dimensions of the table for this mechanism.
For a strong feast
Whatever you say, a normal family with children, friends and relatives cannot do without crowded gatherings at the table, and here a transforming table will not always help out. However, we will leave more or less full banquet tables for the living room, as they say, for later: these are products of a higher order of complexity; primarily due to the sliding mechanism.
By the way, the good old “sliders” with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the tabletop halves (item 1 in the figure) are quite convenient and reliable when properly executed; in addition, you can make them yourself, but such a process requires a special detailed description. Modern mechanisms extension with telescopic guides for full extension, pos. 2, allow you to use not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the table capacity by 6-10 people, respectively, but they are quite expensive, and their installation requires a description no less voluminous.
There are banquet tables with folding inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when moving apart/sliding the halves of the tabletop, the inserts lift, unfold and put in place or put back into the underframe, a very complex mechanism, but it manual options available for making at home.
As for banquet tables with retractable individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in computer desk, then they cannot be called popular: by leaning forward (and how can this be avoided if the house has no servants?), we will get the board back into the table, and our portion of the treat will be used for festive clothes.
But let's not talk about sad things. Let us remember that the table is not always moved apart, and you can use an extension, but a solid table is in any case more reliable. Therefore, in the series of pictures below there is a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and see how it looks “alive” on the left in the picture. at first.
In addition
You often want to paint a table, or any furniture, in more than just stripes or paint it artistically. To protect the drawing from external influences and to ensure the possibility of renewing the varnish if necessary, the paint should not be applied, but rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by rubbing paint in layers is called glazing. So in conclusion, we offer a master class on glazing wood.
Video: master class on wood glazing
The one that is most memorable is the poorly designed dining table. One that is too low or too high, one that does not have enough legroom underneath, one that has too little space. To help you design a table that will be remembered only for its attractive appearance, we will provide basic standards here.
TABLE HEIGHT. Distance from the floor to the top surface of the cover. Usually it is 68–76 cm.
SPACE ABOVE LEGS. The distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the drawer is the vertical space for the legs. The minimum distance is 60 cm.
KNEEL ROOM. The distance from the edge of the table to the leg is the space for your knees when the chair is pulled up to the table. The minimum distance is from 36 to 40 cm, the optimal distance is 36–46 cm.
SPACE ABOVE HIPS. The distance from the seat to the lower edge of the drawer is the vertical space for the hips when a person sits on this chair, pushed towards the table. Minimum – 15 cm.
ELBOW ROOM. Side space on the table for each person sitting. The minimum is 60 cm, but 75 cm is much better.
HAND DEPTH. Front space on the table for each person seated. Less than 30 cm will not be enough, and more than 45 cm will be too much.
SPACE FOR A CHAIR. The distance from the edge of the tabletop to the wall is sufficient to move the chair away when getting up from the table. Architects claim that a minimum of 90 cm is needed, and 110 cm would be the best option.
Table with king belt
When you hear the word "table", don't you think of a flat panel with four legs? Don't you think of just such a table as the one pictured here? Yes, this design is the most original of the original ones. In the simplest version, the table - a typical design - consists of only three types of parts: legs, drawers and a lid (table top). The legs and tsar belt form a strong, yet open, support structure. In a structural sense, many tables are tsar tables, although we rarely call them that. Much more often they are called by their functional purpose or location: dining table, kitchen table, bedside table, desk. As you look further through the book, you will come across the original designs of different tables, and many of them will return to this “basic” table. This type of table can usually be found in the kitchen or dining room. Its massiveness creates the impression of strength. Although the legs are quite massive, the chiseled profile visually reduces their massiveness. In addition, the reasonable dimensions of the legs make them ideal for strong carpentry joints. Despite the simplicity of the design of a table with a tsar belt, many variations are possible. The table can be round, square, oval, rectangular. Its legs can be square, turned, tapered or carved. Even the drawers can influence the appearance of the table.
Design options
For example, a round table with the same turned legs as the base table looks completely different. The square tsar belt with the round lid gives it this distinct look. Despite the elegant cabriole legs of the table in the Queen Anne style, the massive drawers make it a work desk. The cut-out drawers at the third table make a significant visual and practical difference, making the table appear lighter and taller and creating more hip room for the occupant.
Country style table
This table is called by different names - country style table, retro style table, bar table - and presented in different ways. Furniture researchers usually describe it as a simple, low, oblong table on a massive base with turned legs and legs. This characterizes it quite accurately: a table with a drawstring belt and legs. Legs, especially those as strong as in the picture, significantly increase the durability and rigidity of the structure. With intensive daily use, the legs can increase the service life of the table by years. The terms "country" and "bar" are definitely associated with the 17th-18th centuries, when such tables were widely used in hotels, taverns and bars in rural areas and towns. Surviving examples of such tables actually have massive legs - although they are heavily worn out by many feet. The table shown here is equipped with one middle leg instead of two longitudinal ones, to make it more comfortable to sit at the table. However, many early tables had pro-legs around the perimeter. The design is simple. The drawbars and legs are cut into the legs with spikes and reinforced with wedges, dowels, etc. The table cover is a wide panel “at the tip”.
Design options
The easiest way to change the design of a table is to change the legs. Our “original” table has round legs - turned - and the shape of the turning can be changed endlessly. Just remember that you will need a flat, rectangular surface for the frame-to-leg joints. On a country-style table, you can also change the legs - depending on the appearance,
and by their configuration, as shown in the figure below.
Table with drawer and drawer
The name “table with a tsar belt” refers not to the style, but to the design. This type of table is the basis for kitchen, library, desks etc. Even for a workbench. A drawer or two increases the functionality of the desk since the tools that are used when using it can be stored in these drawers. In some cases it is enough small box, while others require the largest possible one. There are only a couple of ways to include such a box in the design. The simplest approach is to simply cut out a drawer opening in the drawer frame. For a relatively small box and a fairly massive drawer, it is quite suitable. If the opening turns out to be so large that it creates a danger of destruction of the board, then it is better to replace the drawer with box bars. The bars can be rotated 90° so that their width matches the thickness of the leg. Tenon joints provide rigidity. A design with two bars - supraglottic and subgular - is preferable, since the upper bar will prevent the legs from moving inward.
Design options
Installing a drawer in a round table is quite possible. But if the drawer belt has a square or rectangular shape, then you must be prepared that access to the inside of the box will be limited. If the drawer belt is rounded, then the front panel of the drawer should be made in such a way (for example, a layered bent or block-glued structure) so that its shape matches the shape of the drawer.
An alternative to a table with a leg in each corner is a table with one central leg. Its tabletop is attached to a central post mounted on low legs that diverge to the sides. Here, drawers are not structurally required, but some single-support tables have them. At first glance, a table without legs and drawers gives unlimited legroom. However, while it does have plenty of knee and hip room, its "creepy" legs tend to get in the way of the sitter's feet. This is the price of stability: the projection of the tabletop should not exceed the support area by more than 15 cm. A little more and you risk knocking over the table by leaning on the edge. Critical to this design is the strength of the center post and its connection to the base or legs. The table shown here has an oval tabletop and - in accordance with the major and minor axis of the oval - two pairs of legs different lengths. The legs are connected to the racks that taper downwards, and the racks are connected to the tabletop brackets with double tenons into the lugs. These intermediate assemblies are in turn glued onto a square core lath to form a central support that flares upward.
The pedestal table appeared in the 18th century as a small coffee table with a three-legged base. To make a dining table, carpenters combined two single-legged tables or placed an oblong tabletop on two three-legged supports. Modern models range from simple utilitarian to multi-post. The structural advantage of multi-post supports is their increased resistance to tilting. Although the support area may be noticeably smaller than the projection of the table top, a large table with this type of support can be quite stable due to the mass of the support.
Place a wide board on the trestle and you have a table. This is the ancestor of the trestle table, which is perhaps the very first type of table. Since ancient times, its form has been significantly improved, but it remains an easy-to-make collapsible table. Its elementary form remains a panel or sheet of plywood on free-standing trestles. And when the trestles are no longer free-standing, that's when the assembly becomes a table, because they must be connected to each other, to the tabletop, or both. In the table shown here, each half of the trestle consists of a fairly wide stand, embedded at the bottom into the leg, and at the top into the tabletop bracket. The wider the trestles, the better the table resists swaying from side to side. There is a long, massive rod embedded in the racks. The tabletop is attached with screws to the trestles, and the structure becomes one whole. Although there is enough space for your feet under the tabletop, you should not forget about the footrest so that when sitting at the table you do not get bumps on your shins. Also, the ends of the tabletop should protrude beyond the trestle by 35–45 cm to provide sufficient space for those sitting there. Many trestle tables are designed to be collapsible. Common methods of fastening parts collapsible table are shown on the next page.
Design options
Thinking about the shape of the trestle posts and legs is the easiest way to change the appearance of this table. Several examples are shown here. The original sawhorses were similar to sawhorses, and the X-shape was quite popular in medieval Europe. Pennsylvania Germans and other Germanic settlers brought this form to America, and it is still often found around picnic tables. Today the most common is the H-shape. Shakers (sectarian shakers), who made many trestle tables, usually used graceful legs with “high rise”
The familiar dining table can be expanded with an additional cover board. Then regular table for a family can be increased to receive guests. At first glance, it may not be noticeable that this standard table with a drawstring belt, cut into two parts and reconnected using special runners. The runners can be bought ready-made or made together with the table. Each table cover must be at least 60 cm - the optimal space for one seated person.
Design options
The design of an extendable table can vary, as usual, by changing the legs and drawers. The shape of the drawers and table top has virtually no effect on the overall design. If we are talking about a table with drawers, then with the sliding version they work as usual. As the extension range increases, it may be necessary to add an additional leg to support the middle section. And don’t forget about the importance of small details - for example, attaching drawers to the table top
Extendable table on one support
A table with a single support is a basic form of table that has some advantages over a table with a tsar belt. If you need a folding table, do not forget to consider this form. Such a table can easily have a sliding, folding, or hinged lid, which will expand it. The most common option is a sliding lid with an insert section. As shown on the next page, the lid is divided into two and its halves are connected by special sliding runners. Thus, these two lid panels can be pulled apart and an additional board inserted between them. What to do with the support is a key question for the master. For the table to be stable, the size of the lid and the support area must be close. In the example shown, the support is vertically divided into two parts, each of which is attached to a corresponding cover panel. When the lid is pulled apart, the support also separates.
Design options
The basic form has a support that separates when the table is extended. This is not the only option. If a relatively small expansion, say 30–40 cm, is acceptable, then extendable table It can also be done on a non-split support. Another option is to make a table on two supports. A table with a support for each sliding half can expand by 90–120 cm.
When choosing one of the types of folding tables, one of the most interesting designs is a system with retractable sections. It is easy to make and use. There is nothing unusual about the basic structure of the table. The only difference from the usual underframe made of drawers and legs is the presence of slots in the end drawers. The difference lies on top of the drawer and legs. Instead of attaching the table top to the drawer belt, its side sections, attached to long tapered runners, are laid on the drawer leg assembly. The runners correspond to the slots in the drawers. The existing central board separating the side sections is secured with screws to the frames. The table cover is placed on top of the central board and side sections, but is not firmly secured. When unfolding the table, the side section simply slides out from under the lid. The skids have stops that prevent the section from being pulled out too far. When pulled out, the lid will tilt slightly at first, but when fully unfolded it will be flush with the side section. Since the pull-out sections are part of the design, you won’t have to search through closets and storage rooms for them when you need to lay out the table before guests arrive. You simply pull out a section or two – even if the table is already set.
Design options
The system with retractable sections is compatible with any type of table support, provided that drawers are available. Thus, a trestle table or a two-legged table (as in the picture on the right), equipped with drawers, can have pull-out sections to increase the number of seats. However, the system is not well suited for countertops with shapes other than rectilinear. When folded, the side section is retracted under the lid and its edges remain (or should remain) visible. If the shape is different from the shape of the lid, then the table will probably look quite strange when folded. For example, a semicircular side section located under a square or rectangular lid will create a gap between the lid and the drawers.
Double-support table with extensions
sections
A table with a sliding folding lid (tabletop) is relatively rare. Despite its low prevalence, this is an excellent system. The table has one additional section - a duplicate of the “main” lid; this section is connected to the lid using hinges and, when folded, lies on the main section (lid). To unfold the table, the “double” tabletop is moved to its extreme position (up to half of the underframe), and then the additional section is folded back onto the underframe. The upper edges of the drawers should be covered with felt or felt to facilitate the sliding of the lid. Making a sliding mechanism is not difficult. Each runner has a ridge that fits into a groove in its guide. The disadvantage is that during periods of high humidity the ridges may become stuck in the grooves. Basic option usually configured as a side table. When unfolded, the edges of the tabletop are quite far from the tabletop, which creates sufficient space for people to sit under the table. The Y-shape of the legs will provide sufficient space for the legs of those sitting at the ends of the table.
Design options
When folded, this table looks like a somewhat strange dining table. To limit the overhang of the tabletop over the underframe (ensuring stability), the size of the base part should be close to the size of the folded tabletop. Therefore, a folding tabletop should be used on a type of table that does not look strange with a small tabletop overhang. Good options Such applications include the side table (as a basic one), the side table (shown here) and other tables and tables for special purposes. When folded, these tables can be placed close to the wall. Folding tops are commonly used in traditional card tables, but without a sliding mechanism. Nevertheless sliding mechanism will do here too.
A table with a folding board (or boards) is practically a “generic” name for all tables in which sections of the tabletop are connected to each other by hinges. It is a common species and has been present throughout American history. In any style of furniture, from William and Mary style to modern, you will find a table with a folding board. This table has folding boards as part of the design. When not in use, they can be lowered into a vertical position, saving space in the room. There are many ways to keep the folding sections in the raised position. The example shown here uses retractable holders - you lift the board and slide out the support brackets from underneath it (much like drawer). For some other support systems, see a table with swivel frame supports, a table with swivel legs, a book table, and several card tables. The main thing to think about for this type of table is the width of the folding boards, which can be optimally supported by retractable or swivel/hinge arms. Make the folding boards relatively narrow - say, no wider than 38 cm. For wider sections, see options with swivel frame supports or swivel legs. A long folding board, like the example shown here, will require more than one bracket. By the way, this example was produced in the 20th century interesting name, which applies to a relatively long, utilitarian table with hinged tops. This name, which can be translated as “suffering,” creates in the conscious mind a picture of a large table laid out,” laden with food for hungry seasonal agricultural workers during the harvest season. Regardless of what we call it now, the people who sat at such a table in 1840 or 1880 probably called it a clapper table or a folding table.
Design options
While a basic dining table is quite long and relatively narrow, with a rectangular top with sharp corners, a drop-board table can be of almost any size, proportion and shape. The table top (tabletop) may have folding boards of a round or slightly rounded shape. On a shortened or square base, you can install a round, square or oval tabletop. You can round the corners of the folding sections or make their outer edges curved.
Book table is the Russian name for a table with rotating frame supports, which are hinged to the frame-leg-leg assembly. The support post is connected to the rotating post by an upper and lower crossbar. The entire support can be rotated so that the raised folding section (board) can be placed on it. The swivel support became the predecessor of the swivel leg. It contains many structural elements that reflect the state of carpentry in the 16th century when it appeared. But like any well-made frame, it is structurally rigid and makes an excellent support for a folding board. Although the first such tables usually had two frame supports (one for each folding board), there were often tables with one folding board and one swivel support, and it happened the other way around - there were several leviathans with 12 swivel supports. When folded, tables were usually very narrow and saved significant space. A large table with two swivel legs on each folding board can be made so that the legs swivel both towards each other and away from each other. If they turn towards each other, then when the folding boards are lowered, the supporting posts of the frames will be located next to the main legs, visually making them more massive. When rotated away from each other, the support posts will be positioned side by side, creating the appearance of a table with six legs. The first tables were usually made in the Baroque style, with a complex turned profile of the legs. However, the example shown is completely modern in style.
Design options
A significant advantage of the book-table is the ability to support very large additional sections. Reliable support under the folding board makes the table very stable even with one section raised. Thus, it is difficult to make a very narrow table with wide folding boards. When folded, the table takes up very little space. When unfolded, it has a huge tabletop
This table can justifiably be called a table with folding boards, but the swivel leg sets it apart from others of its kind. The swivel leg is a descendant of the frame swivel support (see page 158). If the swivel support is attached to the table frame, consisting of a drawer, legs and a leg, then the swivel leg is attached only to the drawer. The result is a lighter appearance. It is the size rather than the assembly of the swivel leg that characterizes this table. The tabletop diameter of only 107 cm will be quite comfortable for four. The swivel leg is used in card tables with small folding tabletops. During the Queen Anne period, a smaller version of the table shown here was called a "breakfast table" and was used both for actual breakfast and for games and tea parties. Larger tables will likely need additional swivel legs to provide better support for the tip boards. A hinge joint—essentially a wooden hinge—makes a swivel leg feasible. A fancier version than shown here makes the connection look like a metal loop.
Design options
The design of a rotating table leg with folding boards appeared in the first half of the 18th century. Although we chose a Queen Anne style table as the “basic” one, the swivel leg was used in tables different styles. The profile of the leg will generally be an indicator of style. Chippendale style swing leg tables often have cabriole designs, but always with a claw-and-ball finish. Square shaped legs are also used in Chippendale tables. During the federal
Hepplewhite style tables had tapering legs, as shown here, and Sheraton style tables had turned, often embossed, legs.
The unfolded folding boards transform
rectangular table to square
The advantage of a table with a frame swivel support over a table with a swivel leg is the stability created by the additional legs. When the folding boards are raised, they are supported by additional legs. A table with swing legs also has this advantage over a table with swing legs, but also has one advantage over a table with frame swing legs. Like the swing leg table, this table has an additional leg for each folding board. But only a narrow crossbar connects the leg to the table. These crossbars are placed in a cage of two guides installed between the longitudinal drawers, and are pulled out through the cutouts in the drawers. The leg is attached to the crossbars. Raise the folding board, extend the leg and lower the board onto it. You have a leg under the folding board and still have four legs under the stationary table top. This structure can support very wide folding boards.
Design options
Here are two very different tables with retractable legs, each of which has excellent stability thanks to the additional leg (or legs) when unfolded. When the card table is folded and placed against the wall, the additional leg is not noticeable. By unfolding the gaming table and extending the additional leg, you will have support at each corner of the tabletop. Perfect. Extendable legs are also a great addition to a long table with folding boards. If you make two extendable legs for each board, the table will not lose stability when someone leans too hard on it.
The table-chair owes its appearance to medieval practicality. In the Middle Ages, dwellings were small and drafty. Any furniture was expensive, everything was done hand tools. And if a piece of furniture could perform more than one function, well, so much the better. The table-chair is clearly universal. With the lid down, it's a table. With the lid raised there is a seat. And as with most universal things, its functionality is far from perfect. With the development of the furniture industry, the table-chair became more advanced in design and elegant in appearance. The product shown here has legs and armrests attached to the sides of the seat with tenon-to-socket joints. The pronounced end of the shoe-shaped legs makes the chair more stable and the armrests more comfortable. The chair even has an under-seat drawer for more sophisticated storage than a box with a lid. The table top is attached with a dovetail mortise.
A circle is a geometrically ideal figure that has special meaning for humans throughout the history of civilization: the circle was used in all spheres of life, from the occult sciences to diplomacy, not to mention its practical application(vivid examples are a wheel, a potter's wheel, etc.). Many expressions mentioning the circle have become common nouns:
- In the circle of friends - where they will not betray or deceive;
- All-round defense or mutual responsibility - joint protection of common interests;
- The Knights of the Round Table, whose devotion and unity went down in history - and where the expression “sit at the round table” came from (that is, to find mutual understanding, to come to a common decision through discussion).
Features of the dining round table
Psychologists have noticed that dinner at a round table takes place in a cozy, calm atmosphere, and conversations at such a table acquire special confidentiality - here you cannot sit at the head of the table or in a place of honor for guests, at a round table everyone is equal and everyone can see other participants in the meal (which important for comfortable communication).
Unfortunately, the layout of many kitchens rarely allows the owners to enjoy breakfast or lunch around the table - from the point of view optimal use space, such a table is very difficult to place in a small room. However, if the kitchen in your apartment or house is spacious enough, we recommend getting such a table: a round dining table is not just a piece of furniture in the house, it is a symbol of a large and friendly family where peace and mutual understanding reign.
How to make a round wooden table so that it becomes a family heirloom
With all the variety of models offered on the furniture market today, it is always much more pleasant and, importantly, cheaper to make a round table with your own hands. Firstly, you can vary the height and diameter of the tabletop. Secondly, depending on the style of the kitchen, you can give the table a corresponding design. Thirdly - furniture self-made always individual, in contrast to the impersonal factory “stamping”. Making such a table is quite simple if you thoughtfully and scrupulously study all the stages of its manufacture, diligently completing all the steps - from the first to the last.
Materials and tools
To make a round kitchen table from chipboard that has all the qualities of a classic dining table, you need to choose suitable material for its tabletop and other structural elements. The most optimal choice here would be laminated chipboard (25 mm thick) and wood for making legs (120x50 mm timber or 60x60mm timber). The timber may have other dimensions, but preferably at least 50 mm. Instead of laminated chipboard, you can use 35 mm thick birch plywood - thanks to this you can significantly increase color scheme painting the table, but the cost of the table will also increase significantly.
Also, we will need the following tools: an electric jigsaw, a drill or screwdriver, a grinder (or sanding attachment to the drill).
For fastening materials, you will need wood screws and confirmations (it is advisable to purchase a multi-stage drill for holes for them along with confirmations).
To decorate the end sections of finished parts, you need to purchase a special edging tape, and for parts made from lumber, you need to buy wood tinting to match the color of the chipboard and varnish for the finishing coating of these parts.
Now you can compose detail drawing, specifying the reasoning:
- Usually, optimal height kitchen tables - from 750 to 800 mm: when drawing up a drawing, you need to take into account all the vertical parameters of the table design that make up this figure - legs, connecting structure, tabletop thickness.
- Tabletop dimensions – personal choice masters: before making a round dining table, you need to assess the size of the room where it will stand.
Option 1. Round dining table, which is easy to make even for a beginner
Materials:
- For the tabletop: square birch plywood or chipboard 1500x1500 mm.
- For the connecting ring: a square with a side of 1280mm of the same material.
- For the table legs you need 4 bars 120x50x750 mm. and 2 planks measuring 1110x120x25 made of tabletop material.
- We cut out grooves in the planks for a cross-shaped connection (Fig. 2). We connect the planks groove to groove.
- Using confirmations, we connect the legs with the slats, as shown in Fig. 3.
- We attach the finished pairs of legs to the connecting ring, also using confirmations (in Fig. 1, 2).
That's it, the process is completed - you can enjoy the well-deserved comfort at the round dining table!
If the size of your kitchen does not allow you to place even a small round table there, and your dream is to dine at just such a table, do not be discouraged. Making a folding round table yourself is almost as simple: it will take a little more material and several additional fasteners.
Folding round table - one base, several options
A folding round table, made according to the principle of a book table, is the best option for a medium-sized kitchen.
By folding one semicircular wing, it can be placed along the wall, and if necessary, you can move it to the center of the room and sit behind it with the whole large group.
Knowing the principles of connection wooden parts, from diagram No. 4 above, you can easily understand the entire design of the folding round table. All dimensions are indicated - you just need to decipher some symbols.
1 and 2 – tabletop, with part 1 being static and part 2 being movable;
3 – legs of a round folding table, attached to the bars of crossbars 4,5 and 6 using metal furniture corners (end, flat - 2 for each leg);
Moreover, the crossbar 5 cuts into the crossbar 4 exactly in the middle, and the crossbar 6, together with the leg, serves as a support for the folding part of the round table and moves on a simple hinge made of an ordinary bolt (the turning point is marked with a cross).
7 – removable decorative strip, attached using wooden dowels to the end part of the folding “wing”.
8 – stopper of the movable leg.
It remains to add that the procedure for making a table remains the same: cutting, fitting parts, assembly, finishing. Your dream is fulfilled with my own hands, congratulations!