How to make a brick oven with your own hands. DIY brick ovens: secrets of the craft

Today, numerous manufacturers of solid fuel heating equipment offer us a wide range of metal stoves and boilers, which is updated with more and more new models from year to year. But despite all their advantages, owners of non-gasified houses still have the honor of an ordinary brick stove - this is evidenced by numerous reviews on thematic forums. What is the reason for the truly popular love for this unit? Our article will not only answer this question, but will also introduce the reader to various types of stoves and the technology for constructing a brick type with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of a brick stove in the house

So, let's try to understand why an ancient heating device is often preferable to its modern high-tech counterparts. There are several reasons:

• The stove body is an excellent heat accumulator: Thanks to this property, a brick stove has to be heated much less often than a conventional steel or even cast iron one. Some varieties retain heat for up to 24 hours, while firewood needs to be added to the firebox of a metal stove every 4–6 hours.
• The ability to accumulate heat makes a brick stove more economical and less harmful to the environment than its metal “substitutes”. The fuel in it burns in an optimal mode - with the greatest heat transfer and almost complete decomposition of organic molecules into water and carbon dioxide. The excess heat generated in this case is absorbed by the brickwork and then gradually transferred to the room.
• The outer surface of the oven does not heat up to a high temperature.

Due to this, the thermal radiation generated by this unit is softer than that of hot steel stoves. In addition, upon contact with hot metal, the dust contained in the air burns, releasing harmful volatile substances (this can be recognized by the characteristic unpleasant smell). Of course, you can’t get poisoned by them, but they certainly cause harm to your health.

• A brick oven (this does not apply to stone ovens) emits steam when heated, and when it cools, it absorbs it again. This process is called furnace breathing. Thanks to him, relative humidity heated air always remains at a comfortable level - within 40–60%. When working with any other heating device, not equipped with a humidifier, the relative humidity in the room decreases, that is, the air becomes dry.

A steel stove has nowhere to put excess heat, so it has to be either heated frequently, adding small portions of fuel, or operated in smoldering mode. In the latter case, the operating time on one load of fuel increases, but it burns with incomplete heat transfer and with a large amount of carbon monoxide and other substances harmful to the environment - the so-called. heavy hydrocarbon radicals.

It is not difficult to verify this: a brick stove produces noticeable dark smoke only during kindling, while black smoke constantly pours out of the chimney of a steel stove in which the fuel is smoldering. Metal solid fuel long-burning heaters (full-fledged, and not so-called gas generator stoves that only imitate gas generation) do not have this drawback. But they are very expensive, have a complex design and require power supply, which a brick oven can easily do without.

What can be opposed to all of the above? A brick oven takes a long time to warm up a cooled room. Therefore, homeowners are recommended to acquire an additional steel convector, which will heat the air in a forced mode while the stove is heating.

It should also be taken into account that a brick oven is a rather massive structure that must be built together with the house. And this should ideally be done by an experienced master, who still needs to be found.

Application of brick kilns

The scope of use of stoves is not limited to their main functions - heating and cooking. Here are some other tasks this unit can solve:

1. Smoking meat and fish.
2. Melting of scrap metal (cupola furnace).
3. Hardening and cementing of metal parts (muffle furnaces).
4. Firing ceramic products.
5. Heating blanks in a forge workshop.
6. Maintaining the required temperature and humidity conditions in the bath.

But in poultry houses, greenhouses, greenhouses and livestock farms it is not recommended to build a brick oven: here it will have to breathe putrefactive fumes, which will lead to rapid deterioration.

Types of structures

The above diagram in various ovens may change. The most common options are Dutch, Swedish, Russian and bell-shaped.

Dutch

This scheme is called channel serial. Such a stove is very simple to manufacture and its design can easily be adjusted to any room, but its maximum efficiency is only 40%.

Swedish unit

A very good option for a heating and cooking stove.

A very successful option for a heating and cooking stove. Its design is called a chamber design. The chamber, the walls of which are washed by hot flue gases, is used as an oven. The duct convector is located behind the stove and occupies the entire space from floor to ceiling. This scheme has a number of advantages:

• Efficiency at 60%;
• in the oven on the side you can install a heat exchanger to heat water, which will be stored in a storage tank on the roof of the oven;
• gases enter the convector relatively cold (they burn out in the chamber part), so for its construction you can use building bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar;
• a convector with this shape heats the room to its entire height as evenly as possible;
• near the Swedish oven you can quickly warm up and dry yourself if you open the oven door.

Furnaces of this type are difficult to manufacture and require very quality materials and need a foundation.

Bell furnace

Self-regulating scheme: flue gases enter the chimney only after complete combustion under the hood.

This mechanism provides an efficiency of over 70%, but this furnace is quite complex to manufacture (the design involves high loads). Yes, and it can only be used for heating.

Russian stove-bed

The design of a Russian stove, like an English fireplace, is called flow-through. It does not have a convector.

The design of a Russian stove, like an English fireplace, is called flow-through. It does not have a convector. The owner of a Russian stove benefits from the following:

• Efficiency reaches 80%;
• the building has an interesting appearance;
• such dishes of ours become available for preparation national cuisine, which cannot be cooked except in a Russian oven.

You can fold a Russian stove yourself if you strictly follow the drawings. The slightest deviations can ruin the design.

General structure of the furnace, drawing

The design of the furnace is not particularly complex.

In the brick mass there is a chamber with a door in which fuel burns - a firebox (in the figure - positions 8 and 9). In its lower part there is a grate (item 7), on which fuel is placed and through which air enters the firebox. Under the grate there is another chamber, called an ash pan or ash pit, which is also closed by a door (positions 4 and 6). Through this door, air from outside enters the oven and through it, the ash that has fallen into it is removed from the ash pan.

Through the hole at the rear wall, the flue gases enter the hailo (pos. 11) - an inclined channel directed towards the front wall. The hailo ends with a narrowing - a nozzle. Next comes a U-shaped channel, called a gas convector (item 16).

The walls of the gas convector heat the air moving through a special channel inside the furnace. This channel is called an air convector (pos. 14). At its exit there is a door (pos. 18), which is closed in the summer.

The chimney contains the following elements:

• cleaning door (item 12): the smoke exhaust duct is cleaned through it;
• valve for adjusting the combustion mode (item 15);
• view (pos. 17): also a valve, through which, after kindling, when all carbon monoxide has already evaporated, block the chimney to retain heat.

The thermal insulation surrounding the chimney at the intersection of the attic floor and the roof is called cutting (pos. 23). At the intersection of the ceiling, the chimney walls are made thicker. This widening is called fluffing (pos. 21), it is also considered cutting.

After crossing the roof, the chimney has another widening - an otter (pos. 24). It prevents rain moisture from penetrating into the gap between the roof and the chimney.

Other positions:

• 1 and 2 - foundation with thermal and waterproofing;
• 3 - legs or trenches: a stove with such elements requires less brick, and besides, it has an additional heating surface from below;
• 5 - the beginning of a special air channel (vent), through which uniform heating of the room along the height is achieved;
• 10 - combustion chamber;
• 13 - bend of the air convector, called overflow or pass;
• 20 - furnace roof;
• 22 - attic floor.

Preparation for construction

Necessary materials, selection

When constructing a furnace, the following types of bricks are used:

1. Construction ceramic brick (red). They are laid out in the lowest rows - the so-called under combustion part(indicated in the diagram by oblique shading), as well as that part of the chimney in which temperatures below 80 degrees are observed.
2. Kiln ceramic brick. Also red, but compared to construction grade it is of higher quality (brand - M150) and withstands more high temperatures- up to 800 degrees. Externally, they can be distinguished by size: the dimensions of the stove are 230x114x40(65) mm, while those of the construction one are 250x125x65 mm. The fire (furnace) part of the furnace is laid out with stove bricks; in the diagram it is indicated by checkered shading.
3. Fireclay brick. The firebox is lined with this material from the inside. It can withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees, but its advantages are not limited to this. Fireclay brick combines high heat capacity (it is a very “capacious” heat accumulator) and equally high thermal conductivity.

Note! Face brick cannot be used in this case.

Due to the high thermal conductivity, it is impossible to lay out the fire part with fireclay bricks alone - the oven will heat up too much and cool down very quickly due to intense thermal radiation. Therefore, the outer surface must be lined with at least half a brick of oven brick.

The dimensions of fireclay bricks are the same as those of stove bricks. It is often recommended to determine its quality by color depth, but this method is only valid for those products for which the clay was mined in one place. If we compare fireclay clay from different deposits, the color does not always provide an objective characteristic: dark material may well be inferior in quality to light yellow.

A more reliable indicator of quality is the absence of pores and foreign particles visible to the eye, as well as a fine-grained structure (in the picture, a high-quality sample is on the left). When tapping metal object A high-quality fireclay brick should produce a loud and clear sound, and when dropped from a certain height it will break into large pieces. A low-quality one will respond with dull sounds when tapped, and when dropped, it will crumble into many small fragments.

Also, during the construction of the furnace, the following solutions are used:

1. Cement-sand: those parts of the furnace that consist of ordinary building bricks are laid on ordinary cement-sand mortar.
2. High-quality cement-sand: this solution, consisting of mountain sand and Portland cement grade M400 and higher, is used if the furnace is supposed to be fired irregularly. The point is that it's dried out clay mortar if it is not warmed up enough, it can become saturated with moisture and become limp again. That is why, in areas with temperatures below 200–250 degrees (in the diagram - oblique shading with filling), instead of clay, a high-quality cement-sand mortar based on mountain sand is used. We emphasize that this should be done only if the stove will often be idle during the cold season.
3. Clay solution. This solution also requires mountain sand. It is characterized by the absence of organic residues, due to which the seams would quickly crumble. But now it is not necessary to buy expensive mountain sand: excellent quality solutions are obtained using sand from ground ceramic or fireclay bricks.
4. High-quality clay is more expensive than sand, so they try to minimize its amount in the solution.

To determine the smallest required amount of this material, subject to the use of sand from ground bricks, proceed as follows:

• the clay is soaked for 24 hours, then mixed with water until it looks like plasticine or thick dough;
• dividing the clay into portions, prepare 5 variants of the solution: with the addition of 10% sand, 25, 50, 75 and 100% (by volume);
• after drying for 4 hours, each portion of the solution is rolled into a cylinder 30 cm long and 10–15 mm in diameter. Each cylinder must be wound around a blank with a diameter of 50 mm.

Let’s analyze the result: a solution without cracks or with small cracks in the very surface layer is suitable for any task; with a crack depth of 1–2 mm, the solution is considered suitable for masonry at a temperature of no more than 300 degrees; For deeper cracks, the solution is considered unsuitable.

Tool

In addition to the standard set of tools for masonry work, which includes:

• trowel;
• hammer-pick;
• grooves for seams;
• shovel for mortar.

The stove maker must have an ordering rack. It has a cross-section of 5x5 cm, staples for fastening at the seams and marks corresponding to the position of individual rows. By installing 4 rows in the corners, it will be easy to ensure the verticality of the masonry and the equality of the width of the seams between the rows.

Calculation of a simple heating device

The method for calculating a furnace is extremely complex and requires a lot of experience, but there is a simplified version proposed by I.V. Kuznetsov. It demonstrates a fairly accurate result, provided that the outside of the house is well insulated. For 1 m2 of furnace surface area, the following heat transfer values ​​are accepted:

• under normal conditions: 0.5 kW;
• at severe frosts when the stove is heated particularly intensively (no more than 2 weeks): 0.76 kW.

Thus, a furnace with a height of 2.5 m and dimensions in plan of 1.5x1.5 m, having a surface area of ​​17.5 m 2, will generate 8.5 kW in normal mode, and 13.3 kW of heat in intensive mode. This performance will be sufficient for a house with an area of ​​80–100 m2.

The calculation of the firebox is also very complicated, but today there is no need for it. Rather than designing and manufacturing a homemade firebox, it is better to purchase a ready-made one in a store: it is already designed according to all the rules and will cost less.

When choosing a firebox, consider the following:

1. The size of the firebox and the location of the fasteners must correspond to the standard size of the brick used.
2. For a stove that is used from time to time, you can purchase a welded sheet steel firebox; for constant use you need to buy only a cast iron firebox.
3. The depth of the ash pit (the lower narrowing of the firebox) should be one third of the height of the combustion chamber if the furnace will be fired with coal or peat most of the time, and one fifth if the main fuel is wood or pellets.

The cross-section of chimneys that meet standard requirements (straight vertical stroke, height of the head above the grate - from 4 to 12 m) is selected according to the recommendations specified in SNiP, depending on the power of the furnace:

• with heat transfer up to 3.5 kW: 140x140 mm;
• from 3.5 to 5.2 kW: 140x200 mm;
• from 5.2 to 7.2 kW: 140x270 mm;
• from 7.2 to 10.5 kW: 200x200 mm;
• from 10.5 to 14 kW: 200x270 mm.

It is impossible to accurately calculate the power of the stove, so sometimes there may be a discrepancy between the accepted cross-section of the chimney and the performance of the unit - the stove begins to smoke. In this case, it is enough to simply increase the height of the chimney by 0.25–0.5 m.

Empirical formulas have been developed to determine the number of bricks, but they give an error of up to 15%. The only way to make an accurate calculation manually is to simply count the bricks in order, which will only take about an hour. A more modern option is to model the furnace in one of the computer programs designed for this. The system itself will draw up a specification, which will indicate the exact number of whole bricks, as well as cut, shaped, etc.

Choosing a location, scheme

The method of installing the stove depends on the size of the house and the location of various rooms in it. Here is an option for a small country house:

In the cold season, such a stove will efficiently heat the entire building, and in the summer, with the window open, you can cook quite comfortably on it.

In a big house with permanent residence The oven can be positioned like this:

In this version, the fireplace stove installed in the living room is equipped with a purchased cast iron firebox with a door made of heat-resistant glass.

And thus a brick stove can be installed in an economy class home:

When considering the location of the furnace, you need to consider the following:

1. A structure containing more than 500 bricks must have its own foundation, which cannot be part of the foundation of the house.
2. The chimney should not come into contact with the attic floor beams or roof rafters. It should be taken into account that in the area where the attic floor intersects, it has a widening called fluff.
3. The minimum distance from the pipe to the roof ridge is 1.5 m.

There are exceptions to the first rule:

1. A hob with a low and wide body, equipped with a heating panel, can be installed without a foundation if the floor can withstand a load of at least 250 kg/m2.
2. In a house with a sectional strip foundation, a furnace with a volume of up to 1000 bricks can be erected at the intersection of the foundations interior walls(including T-shaped). Wherein minimum distance from the furnace foundation to the building foundation strips is 1.2 m.
3. A small Russian stove can be erected on a base made of wooden beams with a cross-section of 150x150 mm (the so-called guardianship), resting on the ground or rubble masonry of the building’s foundation.

Preparatory work consists of laying the foundation and laying thermal and waterproofing. If the furnace is equipped with trenches, a strip foundation is built under it, or a rubble foundation can be used. A conventional furnace (without trenches) is built on a monolithic reinforced concrete slab. On each side, the foundation must protrude beyond the outline of the stove by at least 50 mm.

The insulating “pie” is assembled in the following sequence:

• roofing material is laid on the foundation in 2 or 3 layers;
• 4–6 mm thick basalt cardboard or the same asbestos sheet is laid on top;
• then put a sheet roofing iron;
• All that's left to do is put it down last layer- basalt cardboard or felt impregnated with highly diluted masonry mortar.

Laying can only begin after upper layer will dry to the roofing iron.

Before starting masonry work, a fireproof covering must be built on the floor in front of the future furnace, which usually consists of a sheet of roofing iron laid on a lining of asbestos or basalt cardboard. One edge of the sheet is pressed against the first row of bricks, the rest are bent and nailed to the floor. The front edge of such a covering must be at least 300 mm away from the stove, while its side edges must extend beyond the stove by 150 mm on each side.

Step-by-step instruction

Laying rules in accordance with the order

The oven is placed in accordance with the order (see figure).

Adhere to the following rules:

1. The seams between the bricks in the arch of the firebox and the under-fire part can be up to 13 mm wide, in other cases - 3 mm. Deviations are allowed: upward - up to a width of 5 mm, downward - up to 2 mm.
2. It is impossible to bandage the seams between ceramic and fireclay masonry - these materials differ greatly in thermal expansion. For the same reason, seams in such areas, as well as around metal or concrete elements, are given a maximum thickness (5 mm).
3. The masonry must be carried out with bandaging of the seams, that is, each seam must overlap with the adjacent brick by at least a quarter of its (brick) length.
4. The laying of each row begins with corner bricks, the position of which is checked by level and plumb. So that verticality does not have to be checked every time, cords are pulled strictly vertically along the corners of the stove (to do this, you need to drive nails into the ceiling and into the seams between the bricks) and then use them to guide you.
5. Doors and dampers are fixed in the masonry using binding wire inserted into the seams, or using clamps made from a 25x2 mm steel strip. The second option is for the firebox door (especially its upper part), oven and fire dampers: here the wire will quickly burn out.

In fluff and otter, only the external size of the chimney increases, the internal cross-section remains unchanged. The thickness of the walls increases gradually, for which plates cut from brick are added to the masonry. The inner surface of the chimney must be plastered.

How to make a heating unit with your own hands

The construction of the furnace body begins with the sub-furnace part.

1. In the absence of sufficient experience, the rows should first be laid out without mortar and thoroughly leveled, and only then the row should be transferred to the mortar. Also, novice craftsmen are recommended to lay out the furnace section of the furnace in formwork.
2. After laying the 3rd row, a blower door is installed on it.
3. It must be level. To seal the gap between the brick and the frame, the latter is wrapped with asbestos cord.
4. Next, the fire part is laid out, for which stove and fireclay bricks are used.
5. Before laying, the blocks are cleaned from dust with a brush. Ceramic bricks need to be moistened by dipping them into a container of water, then shaken off. Wetting fireclay bricks is not only not required, but also not allowed. Many stove makers apply the solution by hand, since it is not easy to lay a thin layer 3 mm thick with a trowel. The brick must be placed correctly immediately, without adjusting or knocking. If it was not possible to do this the first time, the operation must be repeated, after first removing the mortar spread on the brick - it can no longer be used.
6. After laying several more rows, the ash pan chamber is covered with a grate. It should lie on fireclay bricks, in which the corresponding grooves are cut.
7. Install the combustion door in the same order in which the blower door was installed.
8. Lay out the rows of the combustion chamber. If a low stove is being built, then the row of bricks above the fire door must be moved back somewhat so that they are not overturned by the heavy cast iron sheet when it is opened.
9. The combustion chamber is covered with a hob or roof (in pure heating stoves). Slab onto the solution due to the significant difference in thermal expansion It cannot be laid between cast iron and clay - an asbestos cord must be placed under it.
10. Next, they continue laying the stove according to the order, creating a gas convector system. In order for soot to collect at the bottom of the gas convector, from where it is easily removed, the height of the lower interchannel transitions (flows) must be 30-50% greater than the upper ones (they are called passes). The edges of the passes need to be rounded.

Having completed the construction of the furnace body, they begin to construct the chimney.

Features of the formation of the arch

There are two types of vaults:

• flat: vaults of this type are laid from shaped bricks in the same way, but instead of a circle, a flat tray is used. A flat vault has one peculiarity: it must be perfectly symmetrical, otherwise it will crumble very soon. Therefore, even stove makers with sufficient experience build this part of the stove using purchased shaped bricks and the same pallets;
• semicircular (arched).

The latter are laid out using a pattern, also called a circle:

1. They begin by installing the outer support blocks on the mortar - thrust bearings, which are pre-cut according to the drawing of the vault, made in full size.
2. After the solution has dried, install the circle and lay out the wings of the vault.
3. The keystones are driven in with a log or a wooden hammer, having previously applied a thick layer of mortar to the installation site. At the same time, they monitor how the mortar is squeezed out of the masonry of the wings: if the masonry was completed without disturbances, this process will take place evenly throughout the entire vault.

The circle should be removed only after the solution has completely dried.

The angle between the axes of adjacent bricks in a semicircular vault should not exceed 17 degrees. With standard block sizes, the seam between them inside (on the firebox side) should be 2 mm wide, and outside - 13 mm.

Rules and nuances of operation

For a stove to be economical, it must be maintained in good condition. A crack only 2 mm wide in the valve area will provide heat loss of 10% due to the uncontrolled flow of air through it.

The stove also needs to be heated correctly. If the blower is very open, 15 to 20% of the heat can fly out into the chimney, and if the combustion door is open while the fuel is burning, then all 40%.

The wood used to heat the stove must be dry. To do this, they need to be prepared ahead of time. Wet firewood produces less heat, and in addition, due to the abundance of moisture in it, heat is formed in the chimney. a large number of acid condensate, which intensively destroys brick walls.

In order for the oven to heat up evenly, the thickness of the logs should be the same - about 8–10 cm.

Firewood is laid in rows or in a cage, so that there is a gap of 10 mm between them. There should be a distance of at least 20 mm from the top of the fuel fill to the top of the firebox; it’s even better if the firebox is 2/3 full.

The bulk of the fuel is ignited with a torch, paper, etc. It is prohibited to use acetone, kerosene or gasoline.

After kindling, you need to close the view so that the heat does not escape through the chimney.

When adjusting the draft during kindling, you need to be guided by the color of the flame. The optimal combustion mode is characterized by a yellow color of fire; if it turns white, the air is supplied in excess and a significant part of the heat is thrown into the chimney; The red color indicates a lack of air - the fuel does not burn completely, and a large amount of harmful substances is released into the atmosphere.

Cleaning (including soot removal)

Cleaning and repairing the stove is usually carried out in the summer, but in winter you will need to clean the chimney 2-3 times. Soot is an excellent heat insulator and if there is a large amount of it, the furnace will become less efficient.

Ash must be removed from the grate before each fire.

The draft in the furnace, and therefore its operating mode, is regulated by a viewer, a valve and a blower door. Therefore, the condition of these devices must be constantly monitored. Any faults or wear should be repaired or replaced immediately.

Video: how to fold a stove with your own hands

Whatever version of the brick stove you choose, it will only work effectively in a well-insulated house. Otherwise there will be no friendship between them.

Since ancient times, heating and cooking stoves have been present in houses. They acted as the main component of any rural home. Nowadays, people living in private houses in the city also do not refuse to install this structure. It has not lost its functionality, so it is actively used by many.

Even if the house has a heating system running on gas or electricity, many people do not want to turn it on at full power on autumn days when the house becomes cool. In this case, a stove will help ensure a comfortable microclimate in your home. It is enough to throw a few logs into the firebox and your home will quickly become warm.

If you decide to acquire this structure in your home, then the task of its construction must be approached with all seriousness, since the stove is built with the expectation that it will last for decades. It doesn’t matter whether you build a heating stove with your own hands or a stove with a stove. Therefore, if mistakes are made during the construction process, it will be extremely difficult to correct them later.

Speaking about stoves, we note that they are divided into structures for one- and two-story houses. The main difference between them is the height. The structure being built may have a slab or be used only for heating. In the second case, there is no slab as a component element. The height of a do-it-yourself oven depends on the number of rows in the design. Next, we will look in detail at how to build a stove with your own hands in a private house.

Materials for masonry

Calculation of materials is an extremely important point when laying a stove with your own hands. In addition, the quality of the structure affects its service life. The stovetop oven we are looking at in this article typically measures 90 x 90 cm at the base. As for its height, the structure does not reach its highest point to the ceiling of the first floor by 2.1 m.

Before you start building a stove with your own hands, need to purchase materials in sufficient quantities that will be used in its construction. During the work you will need:

• red brick M150 in the amount of 1085 pcs.;
• sand-lime brick for the construction of a firebox, 150 pcs. Instead, you can use fireclay;
• sand - 80-100 buckets;
• clay – 200 kg;
• corner 50x50 mm and 40x40 mm;
• steel wire 2 mm - 25 m;
• metal sheet 4 mm 1.5 × 1.5 m;
• roofing felt -3 m;
• asbestos cord 5 mm - 10 m;
• material for wall insulation.

The construction of the foundation also requires the preparation of appropriate materials:

• sand;
• cement;
• fittings;
• crushed stone;
• boards for formwork.

In addition, to build a full-fledged stove with a stove with your own hands, which can be used for heating your home and cooking, you will need to purchase cast iron parts:

• grate - 1 pc.;
• hob with two burners - 1 piece;
• valves - 3 pcs.;
• two doors for the combustion chamber and the blower, 1 pc. each;
• cleaning doors - 5 pcs.

After the materials have been prepared and the builder has them at his disposal necessary tools, you can move on to the active phase of work.

Foundation

Accepting the fact that the structure being built has a large mass, when constructing a foundation with your own hands deepen it no less than 80 cm. However, when maintaining foundation works The climatic features of the area of ​​residence, as well as the depth of freezing, should be taken into account. You can find out about this from local builders. Taking into account all these points, a stove built with your own hands according to the chosen scheme will last a long time.

The pit for the foundation being constructed must have square shape. As for its dimensions, they should be 1.2 × 1.2 m. You can easily dig it with your own hands, using a hand tool - a shovel.

After completion of the excavation work, the bottom of the pit is compacted. Then at the bottom a sand cushion is arranged, for which it is important to withstand optimal thickness layer equal to 10-15 cm. Next, crushed stone is poured in a layer of 15 cm, which after laying it needs to be compacted, and then install the formwork. This must be done with the expectation that it will pass through the entire thickness of the foundation.

Pouring the foundation for the future furnace is carried out in several stages. The first layers may consist of mortar, which is made from cement and pebbles. The top layer must be filled with concrete made from sand and cement. Taking into account the weight of the structure, the foundation must harden long time, at least three weeks. This is important, because otherwise a stove built with your own hands, even in accordance with the selected scheme, will not last long. A crack in the foundation will require repairs.

When the base of the oven with the stove has gained sufficient strength, the formwork is removed, and the upper part of the foundation is covered with waterproofing material– three layers of roofing material. The first brick laying with your own hands will be done further on it.

Compared to a fireplace, the design of a stove with your own hands is more complex. Therefore, the construction scheme must be strictly observed.

Due to the fact that the area of ​​the foundation is larger than the base, markings should be made on the waterproofing. After this, you can proceed to laying the first row.

If a vertical layout of rows is used, then it must be remembered that the chimney channels should not be too narrow. Their minimum size- 13 × 13 centimeters.

The sequential layout scheme for a heating and cooking furnace assumes the following: already from the first rows of masonry, its layout should include a blower chamber. When laying the second row begins, a blower door is installed, which is wrapped with asbestos cord before being installed in the opening intended for it.

When installing the door, a wire is wound around it, which is clamped between two bricks. When it is completely framed with masonry, the wire is bent to the sides.

When they reach the fourth row of the furnace, holes are marked on it for the circulation of heated air. On the fifth stage, the firebox grate is laid. When constructing the firebox wall and its threshold, it is permissible to use sand-lime brick.

The combustion door is installed on the sixth row. It, just like the blower, is wrapped with asbestos cord.

From 6 to 10 rows you need Special attention pay attention to the shape of the holes that will ensure air movement inside the structure. The tenth row, if possible, must be fastened with a frame welded from a corner. On the 11th row, a hob is placed on a pre-laid asbestos pad.

The corner is laid on the seventeenth row. The 18th row of masonry will lie on it, which will complete the framing of the chamber above the slab.

On the 19th-20th rows of masonry, drying chamber. On the 19th row, the cleaning door is installed.

Once again the metal corner is laid on the 24th row of masonry. On him a continuous row of bricks will be laid, which will become the ceiling of the dryer.

The cleaning door is installed on the 25th row.

On the 30th row, two valves are installed.

All subsequent rows up to the 38th are performed according to the scheme, and the next ones form part of the furnace that goes to the second floor. Note that this part of the furnace has a different numbering in order. Its laying is carried out according to the following scheme:

• The door installation is performed on the 2-3rd row. It is used for cleaning;
• installation of the chimney damper is carried out on the 27th row;
• the part of the stove installed on the second floor should have the shape of a wide chimney. It must be equipped with a valve and a chamber. It is gradually replaced by a narrow pipe, which begins at the level of the 32nd row.

An umbrella is placed on the top of the pipe, which prevents dust and moisture from getting inside it.

Furnace diagrams

Do-it-yourself stoves that are built in private homes can currently be divided into two groups:

• modern devices;
• outdated designs.

Building outdated structures with your own hands is not a problem. However, they have an imperfect design, so most often houses have stoves and stoves, which differ in their functionality.

If you decide to build a stove with a stove in your home or just a heating structure with your own hands, then you need to approach the task of choosing them with all seriousness. Familiarization with the advantages of furnaces of different designs will allow you to make right choice. If a private house already has a stove with an old-style stove, then in this case there is no need to build the structure from scratch. It is enough to remodel it and you will have equipment for heating and cooking at your disposal.

To avoid mistakes during the remodeling process, you should first read the video and various instructions how professionals do this work. It is also necessary to use drawings during work. By applying the knowledge gained, you will be able to get a good result upon completion of the work - you will have a stove with a stove, built with your own hands.

One of the common types of stoves is two-tier. If we talk about its structure, then we note that it consists of two designs- one stands on top of the other. Each part of this structure has dimensions of 165x51x238 cm. When the furnace is operating, the heat transfer in the lower part is 3200 kcal/h, and in the upper part - 2600 kcal/h.

When building such a structure with your own hands, the two structures are separated from each other by masonry made of bricks with voids. This allows you to reduce the weight of the stove and save during its construction a certain amount of material. The lining, which is used to fill the space between the upper and lower oven, also acts as a base for the first structure.

Both the upper and the lower ovens have exactly the same design. In the case under consideration, a ductless smoke circulation system is implemented. Once in the firebox, the gases move into the upper cap, which is equipped with a special nozzle. After the gases cool, they sink to the bottom to the level of the firebox. Then they go into the chimney through the underpass.

For a lower stove, the chimney runs through the top, so the heating surface is smaller. The upper structure includes a separate chimney. The process of laying it does not contain any difficult moments. The gas movement pattern is also simple. There is a door in the back wall through which the lower structure must be cleaned. Cleaning the upper structure must be done through the door located in the side wall. Either coal or anthracite can be used as fuel for a two-tier stove. Each of the pipes created in this furnace is additionally equipped with a valve.

A reinforced concrete slab is often used to cover the top of voids. This type of overlap provides stability, and in addition makes the furnace structure as a whole more stable. When performing masonry of such volume, errors must be excluded. Indeed, if they occur, repairs will be extremely difficult.

Great care should be taken in the design of the chimney located in the lower structure of the furnace. If there are leaks in the masonry, then in this case You may experience heat leakage from the wall, which separates the pipes on the second floor. Note that this will also happen when the smoke valves are closed.

Ovens with a stove or any other type can be combined into any array, regardless of whether they have a square or rectangular shape. The type of fuel also does not have special significance. For a country house, a stove built with your own hands can become ideal option heating

A stove of this design has dimensions of 102x102x238 cm. If we talk about its heat transfer during operation, it is 4200 kcal per hour.

One of its important parts, the firebox, has a greater height in the design of this stove. The symmetrical arrangement is also characteristic of its side openings, which serve to remove gas through the side chambers of the furnace walls located on the sides of the structure. Once there, the gas descends through the chambers, the connection of which is ensured by a special channel located under the firebox.

Gases enter the risers from each side chamber through the lower flaps. Then they rise into the side chambers located at the top. All together they form the top cap, which contains three U-shaped cavities.

The cavities are located parallel to each other. Once up, the gas will be retained in the middle and rear cavities of the cap, and after cooling, it will move to the front plane along the bottom. The front plane is connected to the top-type chimney. From there the gas will escape into the atmosphere.

The design of this furnace has three hoods: an upper one and 2 large chambers. If we talk about the type of fuel that can be used in the construction of this structure, we note that it can be anything. To lay out the walls of the firebox during the construction of the furnace, refractory bricks should be used.

A stove in the house is a good help in creating a comfortable microclimate with minimal costs. She can act as the main heating system for a home or used as an additional heat source. The construction of this structure does not have to be entrusted to a specialist. You can build a stove in your home yourself if you study all the nuances of building a stove. High-quality execution work will allow you to get a stove that will give off heat well and will last for decades.

The question of how to build a brick stove for a house with your own hands continues to be relevant today, since comfort and warmth have always remained for humans important conditions for complete relaxation after a busy day at work. Therefore, recently more and more city residents are moving from panel high-rise buildings to private houses, where it is possible to create a comfortable environment at any time of the year.

Due to the demand for various models of furnaces, engineers continue to develop new options suitable for buildings with different areas. It should be noted that even when all the “blessings of civilization” are present in the house, a small cozy stove will never be superfluous and will help out in various situations. For example, it can be heated on cold spring or autumn evenings, when it is humid or it's raining without starting the heating system. Such a structure will help create an optimal balance of temperature and humidity in the house, which will be comfortable for a person. In addition, the oven will be an excellent assistant in cooking or drying vegetables, herbs and fruits.

Since there are a large number of different models of heating structures, you should choose stoves with the most accessible, easy-to-read diagrams for DIY installation, especially if you have little or even no experience in this craft. Naturally, it is necessary to take into account other factors that directly affect the efficiency of the stove - its power, dimensional parameters, functionality, and also the aesthetic appearance is also important. And in order to choose the right stove model, you need to consider the criteria that you need to focus on when determining the desired option.

How to choose the best oven option?

Choosing a furnace installation location

To ensure that the furnace is fireproof, efficient, and its power is used to its maximum possible extent, this structure must be installed correctly, taking into account some nuances.

• Firstly, it is decided how much area can be allocated for installing the stove.
• Then, you need to decide on a specific location:

— the stove is installed in the center of the room, dividing it into separate zones;

— built into the walls, between two or three rooms;

- erected near the wall, with a distance of 250÷300 mm from it, if you need to heat only one room. However, it must be taken into account that this option is the most losing, since most of the heat generated by the rear walls will not be fully used.

• Having chosen an approximate location, you need to immediately mark it, starting from the ceiling, using a plumb line, since the pipe must pass through the attic floor between the beams and rafters, and at a distance from them of at least 120÷150 mm.
• When allocating an area for the furnace, it is taken into account that for its foundation it is necessary to provide more space than its base, by 100–150 mm on each of its sides.
• To avoid any problems with regulatory organizations, when choosing an installation location, you need to take into account not only the recommendations presented above, but also the standards developed by specialists and specified in SNiP 41-01-2003.

Calculation of the required power and assessment of firewood consumption

A furnace will not be efficient and will not be able to heat your home if it is not powerful enough for a particular area. This also takes into account the winter temperatures of the region where the heated building is located, the number of windows and doors in it, the level of insulation of walls and floors, ceiling height and many other conditions.

For example, the higher the ceiling, the larger the volume of air will have to be heated, and the larger the glass area, the faster the heat will leave the house, which means you will have to choose a stove with increased power. Typically, for buildings with non-standard glazing and other parameters that do not fall under the average statistical level, calculations must be made by a specialist individually, based on the specific characteristics of the house.

But in general, you can rely on average values. Thus, for well-insulated houses with conventional glazing, with an area of ​​50 to 100 m², with a ceiling height of 2.5 to 2.7 m, the following thermal power standards per unit area (Wsp) are acceptable:

This value can be found out more accurately from your local construction organization. And for those who like to do their own calculations, we can recommend a more detailed and fairly accurate algorithm.

How to accurately calculate the required thermal power?

Each room is unique in its own way, and heating two seemingly equal rooms may require different amounts of thermal energy. The methodology for calculating the power of heating equipment is set out in a special publication on our portal dedicated to.

Having data for a specific region and the size of the heated area (S), the furnace power for it is calculated using the formula:

Wsum = S (m²) × Wsp (kW/m²)

For example, we can consider the power of the furnace for brick house, located in the central part of Russia and having an area 75 m².

Wsum = 75 × 0.14 = 10.5 kW

Typically, stove developers immediately indicate the thermal power of their designs. True, other units of measurement are often found - kilocalories per hour or megajoules. It’s not scary - they can be easily converted into watts and kilowatts:

In our case, for example, the calculated power in kilocalories will be equal to:

10500 × 0.86 = 9030 kcal/hour

Now you can calculate the efficiency of the future stove, which largely depends, among other things, on the quality and type of wood used as fuel. At the same time, we must not forget that usually brick wood-burning stoves are not characterized by high efficiency. It is usually estimated at around 70%. If there is data for a specific oven model, then a specific value is substituted.

Each type of solid fuel has its own calorific value - the amount of thermal energy that is released when burning 1 kilogram. It is clear that only bulk fuels - coal or - are usually measured in kilograms and tons, and firewood is usually measured in storage cubic meters. This indicator thus depends on the specific density of a particular type of wood. Indicators of energy potential (based on mass and storage volume) of the main types solid fuel are shown in the table.

Wood type	Average calorific value of dry firewood by mass, Qm (kW/kg)	Average calorific value of dry firewood by storage volume, Qv (kW/m³) (for coal and briquettes – kW/t)	The same applies to damp wood (which has not undergone at least a one-year drying cycle)
Firewood:
Beech	4.2	2200	1930
Oak	4.2	2100	1850
Ash	4.2	2100	1850
Rowan	4.2	2100	1850
Birch	4.3	1900	1670
Elm	4.1	1900	1670
Maple	4.1	1900	1670
Aspen	4.1	1750	1400
Alder	4.1	1500	1300
Willow (willow)	4.1	1400	1230
Poplar	4.1	1400	1230
Pine	4.4	1700	1500
Larch	4.4	1700	1500
Fir	4.4	1600	1400
Spruce	4.3	1400	1200
Coal and briquettes:
Anthracite	8.1	8100	-
Charcoal	8.6	8600	-
Coal	6.2	6200	-
Brown coal	4.2	4200	-
Fuel briquettes	5.6	5600	-
Peat briquettes	3.4	3400	-

The calorific value of undried firewood is shown for contrast - how much generated power is lost. Naturally, you should still rely on firewood that has gone through the necessary drying cycle.

Preparing firewood is a serious matter!

In order for the stove to live up to its purpose and serve as long as possible, it should be “fed” with the right fuel. About their main characteristics, rules of preparation, drying and storage - in a special publication on our portal.

The average daily weight consumption of fuel to ensure the necessary heat transfer is determined by the formula:

V(kg)= (Wsum /Qm) × 24 hours

To calculate volume - everything is the same, but instead of calorific value by mass Qm value is substituted Qv.

Knowing the daily consumption, it is easy to determine the weekly, monthly and even for the entire expected heating period - in order to have an idea of ​​the upcoming costs of purchasing or procuring the required amount of firewood.

For relax self-calculation, below is a convenient calculator, which already contains the necessary ratios. The calculation is carried out for dried wood.

Not a single village house can do without a stove, as it will both feed and heat. Today, gas mains have been installed in many villages, and it would seem that it is possible to switch to a more convenient heating method. However, many homeowners are in no hurry to abandon brick stoves, which provide a completely different, special warmth. In addition, in regions rich in forests, where there are no problems with firewood, it is possible to save on gas by having a brick stove in the house.

To find out how to fold, you need to study in detail the layout and masonry technology. Before you begin to study a specific option, you should consider several models, since there are compact and massive structures. You need to choose a stove that will take up less space in the house, but will have all the functions that are in demand in the household.

There are a lot of models of brick stoves. Experienced stove makers can make their own changes to finished projects, since they already know by heart where and how the internal channels through which smoke is removed should pass. Thanks to correct scheme their placement in the stove design, it will warm up evenly and release most of the heat into the room. It is better for novice craftsmen to strictly follow the already drawn up order schemes, without deviating a single step from them, since even one incorrectly placed brick can ruin all this rather labor-intensive work.

Types of brick kilns

Based on their functionality, stoves are divided into three main types - cooking, heating and. Choosing a suitable design, Firstly you need to decide what exactly will be required of her.

The hob has a cast iron panel for cooking food and heating water. Typically, such stoves are small in size and are popular for installation in small private homes and in the country. Of course, a cooking stove can, in addition to cooking food, also warm a small room.

The heating and cooking stove is a multifunctional massive structure

A heating and cooking stove can warm a house or country house with a large area, and its design sometimes includes a stove bench, and in addition to the stove, an oven, a tank for heating water and a niche for drying vegetables and fruits are built in.

Always compact. It does not include a hob and serves only to heat the premises. Such a structure can warm two rooms if it is placed between them, built into the wall.

Choosing the optimal location for the furnace

By selecting the desired model oven, you need to find a suitable place for it. The structure can be installed against a wall, in the middle of a room, or built into a wall. The choice of location will depend on the size of the stove structure and the desires of the home owner.

• Stove in the middle large room, can divide it into two different zones, for example, a kitchen and a dining room or living room. The hob will go into the kitchen, and a flat wall with well-made masonry will become designer decoration living room. Perhaps, immediately or over time, there will be a desire to add a wall to the stove and completely separate the two rooms - in this case, the partition should be insulated from the stove with non-combustible material. You can use asbestos sheets for this or install brickwork.
• It is not advisable to build a stove near external wall, since there it will quickly cool down.
• When installing a stove between two rooms, it must also be separated from the walls with heat-resistant materials.
• The proposed construction site must be carefully measured and be sure to take into account that the foundation should be 100 ÷ 120 mm larger than the base of the furnace. In addition to the base area, you need to calculate the height of the building so that it fits well into the room in all respects.
• To make it easier to work, you need to find an ordering diagram for the selected model.

Having decided on the model and installation location, you can purchase materials for construction and prepare tools.

Tools, building materials for laying a brick stove

Depending on the size of the furnace, it requires different amounts of materials and additional cast iron and steel parts, but the tools required for masonry are the same.

Tools

Of the tools and equipment for the construction of any furnace you will need:

The “goat” is a scaffold that will make it easier to work at height when the stove is raised above human height. They are convenient because the stove master can not only climb onto them, but also place a container with a solution next to him and even put the tools and building materials necessary for this stage of work.

“Goats” will be needed when laying the top rows

Another version of the stand, more compact, is the “tragus”. You need to have two such devices, because if you place them at a certain distance from each other and lay thick boards on top, you will get the same platform. Can also be used separately, as stairs.

You can get by with a couple of more compact trestles, making temporary plank flooring on them

The following set of tools will need to be prepared:

1. A pick will be needed to separate and trim the brick.

2. A broom made from sponge, for removing dried sand and pieces of mortar from the finished laid rows of masonry and mopping inside the masonry.

3. Corner - will help bring the corners inside and outside the oven exactly 90 degrees.

4. A plumb line is needed to check the verticality of the walls.

5. A kiln hammer is also required to separate bricks into pieces and chip off small protrusions of hardened mortar.

6. Pliers will be needed for biting, bending and straightening the wire.

7. A rubber hammer is necessary for tapping bricks in masonry if it is difficult for them to fit.

8. A chisel will also be needed for splitting bricks, as well as dismantling old masonry.

9. Trowel (trowel) different sizes- for applying the solution and removing excess excess.

10. The rule will be necessary to level the surface of the foundation.

11. A lead scriber is used for marking, especially in cases where it is planned to decorate the stove with tiles.

12. The knocker is a piece of pipe, which is also used for cutting tiles; instead of a hammer, it is used to hit a knife.

13. Wooden spatula - for mixing and grinding the solution.

14. Metal scriber rod for marking.

15. A level is needed to check the horizontality of the rows and the verticality of the walls.

16. A rasp is used to remove sagging and grind in lumps.

17. Jointing is necessary for neatness of the seams if the stove will not be plastered or finished with decorative tiles.

18. Container for mixing the solution.

19. A sieve that will help you make masonry mortar thin.

Construction materials

The amount of materials will depend on the chosen stove, and their list is almost always the same. For a purely heating type, you will not need a hob, oven cabinet, or water tank. But usually the standard set of cast iron and steel elements consists of the following items:

1. Blower door.

2. Door for fireboxes

3. Cleaning doors ovens.

4. Chimney damper.

5. A burner made of several rings.

6. Hob.

7. Grate.

From others metal elements you may need:

1. Oven.

2. Tank for water.

3. Metal corner 50 × 50 mm.

4. Metal strips 3 ÷ 4 mm thick.

5. Steel wire.

Directly for masonry you will need to purchase:

1. Red hardened brick.

2. Fireclay brick.

3. Ingredients for clay mortar or ready-made dry heat-resistant mixture for laying stoves.

4. For the foundation you will need cement, crushed stone, sand, formwork material and a sheet of roofing felt for waterproofing.

5. You will also need heat-resistant material for protective finishing of the walls of the house and a metal sheet or ceramic tile for the floor.

Prices for refractory bricks

Fire brick

Preparing a site for the construction of a stove

Usually the foundation for the furnace is poured simultaneously with the general foundation of the house, although it is not rigidly connected to it. However, it often happens that the furnace is erected in a finished building.

Further actions depend on what kind of floor is installed in the room.

• If the foundation is concrete and completely poured, according to the principle of a slab, and the structure of the stove is not designed to be too massive, then you can begin to lay the stove directly on the concrete floor, having first laid a sheet of roofing material under the masonry.
• If the foundation is strip or the floor is wooden, then you will have to build the foundation from scratch.

Foundation

The foundation must be deepened into the ground. To do this, a place for the stove is marked on the floor, and then the boards or thin concrete floor are removed.

• A pit is dug in the exposed soil, 400-500 mm deep.
• At the bottom of the pit, a “cushion” of 100 mm is made of sand, and then of the same thickness - from crushed stone, the layers are well compacted.
• Next, along the perimeter of the pit, formwork is installed for pouring concrete - it should rise above the main floor by 100 ÷ 120 mm
• The lower layer of the foundation, up to about half the height, may consist of crushed stone, sand and cement. It is poured, distributed in an even layer over the entire area, and left to harden.
• After the bottom layer has set well, you can pour the top layer, which will consist of a thinner solution. The space is filled with fully prepared concrete mortar and leveled using the rule, and the top formwork boards will serve as beacons for this. The foundation must dry well and gain the required strength. To do this, it must be moistened with water starting from the second day, which will improve the uniformity of ripening. cement mortar and will not allow cracks to form.

• Fully ready foundation(after 3 ÷ 4 weeks) it is covered with roofing felt to create a layer of waterproofing. Then markings are made on this surface - the shape of the stove base is drawn, along which the first row will be laid out.

Dry masonry

• Experienced craftsmen recommend that a novice stove maker take his time laying bricks on the mortar so as not to make mistakes. Especially if this work is being carried out for the first time, it is best to dry out the entire furnace structure.
• By carrying out this process carefully, with a constant eye on the existing diagram, you can understand the internal structure of the chimney channels and the structure of the firebox and vent.
• For dry masonry, you need to prepare auxiliary slats with a thickness of 5 mm, which will determine the distance between the bricks - during the main masonry it will be filled with mortar, forming seams.
• After the entire stove model up to the chimney pipe has been laid out, it is disassembled again, while the bricks of each row can be stacked separately, if there is enough space in the room for this, and numbered, indicating the row and the specific part in it. This is especially important if, when laying dry, the bricks were adjusted to the required size.
• It should immediately be noted that during the final laying, it is also better to first lay out each row dry again, for control, and then immediately fix it with mortar.
• In addition, you need to know that when laying bricks on the mortar, it is applied with a thickness of about 7 mm, then the brick is pressed and, if necessary, tapped with a rubber hammer. Excess mortar is immediately picked up with a trowel.
• Having laid two or three rows until the solution has set, the seams are decorated with jointing. If suddenly the solution is not wet enough, you can sprinkle it with a little water from a spray bottle.
• We must not forget that during laying, constant monitoring of the vertical and horizontal rows is necessary.

Knowing these nuances, you can proceed directly to the masonry.

The presented video shows a diagram of the construction of a compact heating stove, which is suitable even for a very small room. True, others additional functions it does not include:

Video: heating stove for small spaces

Compact "Swedish"

Convenient, versatile and fairly compact Swedish oven

It can be called the neatest and most compact stove, suitable for small spaces. This stove can be called a heating and cooking stove, since it has a high body with smoke exhaust channels located inside, which means that when it is fired, the walls will warm up well, releasing heat into the room. At the same time, the design also includes a hob.

The first picture shows a “Swede”, which has a wider pediment than in the second photo, since it is supplemented with an oven, and instead of cleaning windows there is a drying niche above the stove. This version of the stove is twice as wide as the second model.

This is also a “Swedish”, but of a slightly different design

The ordering diagram shown below almost completely corresponds to the stove in the presented photo, with some exceptions: instead of two windows for cleaning, there is a niche above the hob, a slightly different location of the pipe - on the other side of the structure, and consistent roundness of the corners. When laid in this order, the stove will look something like this.

The structure is laid out based on the ordering diagram:

Layout diagram for laying a compact heating and cooking "Swedish"

Although this diagram shows that they begin to lay out the blower chamber from the first row, after all It’s worth laying it out in a continuous plane and only from the second row can you start working on the blower chamber. But, in order not to create confusion, the description will go exactly according to the diagram, and the first continuous row can be called “zero”.

• So, the formation of the blower chamber begins from the first row.
• A blower door is installed on the second row. The door is secured with wire and temporarily supported with bricks until it is lined with masonry on all sides.

• From the fourth row, two chambers for cleaning begin to be removed and doors are also installed on them.
• A grate is laid on the fifth row.

• The firebox door is also secured with wire to the sixth row, and is also temporarily supported by bricks mounted on the grate, and Also, if necessary, a support is also placed on the front side of the door.

• On the seventh row, the beginning of the vertical smoke exhaust channels is laid.
• On the ninth row, the firebox door is covered with a brick, the wire of which is secured and tucked into the seams between the rows.
• On the eleventh row, a hob is placed on the left opening, and strips of asbestos are placed under its edges. The front lower edge of the cooking chamber is framed by a steel angle.
• From the twelfth to the sixteenth row the cooking chamber is displayed.
• On the seventeenth row, metal strips are laid, and its upper edge is formed with a corner.
• The next two rows are laid solid, leaving only three smoke exhaust channels.
• On the twentieth row, another door is installed, and cleaning chamber and a niche for drying.
• At 22- ohm row, the chamber door is covered with masonry.
• On the 23rd row, the chamber is completely blocked, and at its end a hole is left that will continue the smoke exhaust channel.
• On 24- ohm a row of metal strips cover the drying niche.
• At 25- ohm install the cleaning chamber door.
• At 27- ohm the door is covered with masonry.
• At 28- ohm The entire chamber is completely blocked.
• At 30- ohm In a row, two valves are installed on the smoke exhaust channels. First, the frame of this part is laid on the mortar, and then the valve is inserted into it.

• From 31st to 35th th a row is laid out a segment.
• From the 35th to the 38th, the construction of the pipe fluff begins.
• Next comes the laying of the pipe, which already has your own numbering. From the first to the 26th row, the shape of the pipe does not change, you just need to very carefully monitor the evenness and internal cleanliness (from solution residues) of the smoke exhaust channels. This part of the pipe is called the riser.
• On the third row, another door is placed on the cleaning chamber.
• At 27- ohm Another chimney valve is installed in a row.
• At 29- ohm they expand the pipe by one row, and by 30- ohm it is brought into its initial form.
• Starting from the 31st row, the narrowest part of the pipe is laid out, which is discharged through the roof.

When a chimney passes through the attic floor, it must be insulated from it with flammable materials - this could be asbestos, mineral wool or expanded clay, poured into a box located around the entire perimeter of the pipe.

The hole in the roof through which the pipe passes must be closed after construction. waterproofing material, which is applied both to the pipe and to the roof.

Installation of other oven elements

As mentioned above, there may be other elements built into the stove, so it is worth considering how some of them are installed.

Oven

If the design includes an oven, it is most often installed on the same level as the firebox or hob. This is important for its rapid and uniform heating.

• Metal corners are first installed in the place where it will be installed - they will become reliable supports for the cabinet.

• Next, the oven is wrapped with asbestos cord - this material is heat-resistant and will help the thin metal of the cabinet last longer.

Video: technology for laying an efficient stove with an oven

Prices for masonry mixtures and special-purpose adhesives

Masonry mixtures and special-purpose adhesives

Hot water tank

The water heating tank can be installed in different ways. Sometimes it is built into the structure of the furnace, in other cases it is placed on top. The main thing is that it is located next to the smoke exhaust duct, from which the water will receive the necessary thermal energy. In this case, you need to provide a hole for filling the tank with water and a tap from which it can be taken. It is advisable to make the water tank from a stainless alloy, otherwise very soon yellow water will come out of it, unsuitable for water procedures.

Another option for installing this water heating element is to install it at the same level as the hob, above the firebox, when it will only heat up from below. In this case, it is best to place a cast iron or thick steel plate under the tank, otherwise its bottom will burn out very quickly. The container in this installation option is not embedded in the walls of the oven.

The disadvantage of this setup is that less space remains for hob, or the firebox will have to be made deeper, which means the overall dimensions of the stove will increase, which is not always possible in tight spaces.

When choosing a stove model for your home, you need to think through everything in advance - what functions should be implemented in it, its size and design. Based on this, it is worth choosing a building design with an ordering scheme.

It should be noted that laying a stove is a real art, and not even every experienced craftsman always succeeds perfectly. Therefore, if you do not have any skills in this work, then it is better to invite a specialist who will help you do everything correctly.

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The oven is rude and the source of a fair amount of confusion. The fact is that “rude” or “rude” is not an established term. In Western and, partly, in South Slavic languages, rude is either simply a house heating and cooking stove, or a wood-burning stove for summer kitchen for 150-200 bricks. Well, according to A search on the RuNet brings up Dutch, Swedish, bath (!), bell-type (!!) stoves, etc. You can even find statements that say that somewhere there was once an outstanding designer of stoves, Grub.

In fact, a stove with a rough, or simply rough, is a compact heating and cooking stove with a heating panel, separate from the stove according to the heat cycle, but combined technologically, i.e. they are built together (see also below). Hence the conclusion that there cannot be a bell housing - heating shields for stoves are always ducted. A do-it-yourself rough oven is easier to build than a channel furnace of equal thermal power with a single thermal cycle, requires less materials and weighs less. However, its thermal efficiency (analogous to the efficiency for furnaces) is lower. Therefore, rude buildings are built in seasonally inhabited premises or small houses with good thermal insulation, where some excess fuel consumption in absolute and monetary terms does not impact the budget.

Note: a heating and cooking unit made of brick for 12 kW of heat requires up to 1200 bricks; the same power without a hob – 1200-1350, – 1800-2000, – 2500-3500 bricks.

Varieties

A do-it-yourself stove can be built with a shield built into the body (structure) of the stove, and then in appearance it is indistinguishable from the stove, pos. 1 in Fig. The slab grinder is compact, least material-intensive, lightest, and requires a minimum amount of additional construction work, but its thermal power is limited to 10-12 kW, and then with great strain. Therefore, rough slabs are installed mostly in seasonal dachas (spring-autumn) with occasional trips there in winter, hunting lodges, etc. An important advantage of a rough slab is that it can be built without a foundation directly on the floor, if it load bearing capacity not less than 500 kgf/sq. m.

A rough structure with an attached shield (item 2) is structurally more complex and heavier, although a simplified foundation (see below) is also suitable for it, but its thermal power is potentially greater. A wood-burning grub with an attached shield can develop up to 16-18 kW; on coal - up to 20-22 kW. Current circuit flue gases in rough form with a shield is given in pos. 3; This is how the popular Galanka stove was built. However, you need to know that there is no point in building a furnace with more than 3 revolutions: such a furnace with a single cycle will be simpler and cheaper. In addition, during construction it will be necessary to pay special attention to some of the features of rough stoves, the consideration of which is devoted to a significant part of the article.

Note: wood burning can also be done with a stove bench, see below. It is not advisable to heat such a stove with coal; the stove will overheat.

Why is it rude - rude

Visually, a rough stove can be distinguished from a stove with a later added shield due to the integrity of the structure (item 4), but in essence they are one and the same. The calculation of a heat-efficient furnace is very complex and requires quite deep knowledge of heating engineering, and the development of a furnace design based on its results also requires a solid practical experience. It is much easier to design and build a grub because its combustion (fire) part and the shield are calculated separately and then “molded” together according to the pairing rules building structures taking into account the requirements of heating engineering. Naturally, the thermal efficiency of the resulting device will be lower, because the interaction of the thermal cycles of the fire part and the shield is not taken into account, and it is by taking it into account that it is possible to increase the efficiency of a single cycle furnace. That's why, If you live in an area with a harsh climate, a rude stove may only make sense for you as a seasonal stove for temporary use.

Firebox, shield and chimney

The main differences from a solid fuel stove are a more powerful firebox and the absence of a pass (smoke tooth) in the firebox. The tooth traps hot gases under the hob, which in a summer stove allows you to reduce fuel consumption for cooking. In the rough it is not needed, because excess heat will be used for heating.

A rough stove should have a more powerful firebox because the shield provides additional resistance to the flow of flue gases. A chimney with increased draft will not help here: the gases in the shield will immediately expand and cool. Their thermal energy will turn into a mechanical one, which will successfully fly out into the pipe. Figuratively speaking, a firebox with a chimney in a stove with a shield works on the push-pull principle, and “push” here is the firebox more power. This explains the special requirements for the firebox and stove fittings, see below.

Shields

Depending on the purpose of rough heating shields, they are made of different types. Diagrams of heating panels for furnaces are shown in Fig. below; The fuel part is shown conditionally everywhere.

1. Sequential stroke with short vertical channels. The least material-intensive and easiest to build. The resistance to gas flow is greatest. The compactness and thermal efficiency of the stove are average. The most commonly used scheme;
2. Sequential stroke with horizontal channels. The dimensions and weight of the oven are the same as before. case, but building a shield with horizontal channels is much more difficult. Gas flow resistance approx. 1.5 times less. As a result, the thermal efficiency of the furnace is higher. It is possible to install a bed, i.e. the upper channel does not heat up much;
3. Sequential stroke with long vertical channels. Thermal efficiency is the same as that of a shield with horizontal channels, the technological complexity is the same as that of a shield with short vertical channels. It occupies the smallest area, but requires a lot of materials and a good foundation (see below) due to the high specific pressure on the support. The best option for a home heating stove for 2-3 rooms, see below;
4. Parallel move. Highest thermal efficiency, lowest weight per unit of thermal power. The occupied area and technological complexity are the greatest. Can be used with a reduced power firebox. Optimal for adding to an existing slab without altering it.

Note: There are also shields of a series-parallel circuit or chessboard. The most complex, but also the lightest, have the least resistance to the flow of gases. Only possible variant for rough in a house with a heated attic, see below.

Special requirements

We repeat: the advantages are simple - compactness and the ability to build in an existing house without major construction work. But it is not so easy to place a more powerful firebox in a furnace structure of generally the same dimensions; from excessive heat load it will quickly become unusable. If special requirements are not met:

• Furnace foundation.
• Masonry mortars.
• Methods of laying the structure of the furnace.
• The choice and methods of installing stove fittings.

Foundation

The design of the foundation for the rough is shown in Fig. Crushed stone cushion without sand bedding before pouring it is leveled to the horizon. Pouring mortar M150 – cement M300 and sand 1:2. The gap between the rubble foundation and the flooring is 30-40 mm. Don't forget to support the cut joists! Leaving their ends hanging is a common but serious mistake. The dimensions of the foundation in plan should protrude onto the contour of the furnace by at least 100-150 mm.

Note: the brick bed on the foundation under the furnace is laid out with bandaging in the rows and between the rows in the same way as the first 2 rows of masonry for the furnace structure, see below.

Solutions

To fold the rough, 3 types of solutions are used, see fig. below. The bed on the foundation and the chimney are laid out on lime mortar as it combines sufficient heat and moisture resistance, but the rubble must be laid only on a completely moisture-resistant cement-sand mortar. It is highly advisable to use mountain or ravine sand with rough grains for clay mortar. Ordinary clay - purchased from the oven, guaranteed fat content and, most importantly, purity. Self-excavated clay, brought to the required fat content with sand, is of little use for coarse masonry.

Masonry

For rough masonry, stove bricks and, if the order (see below) is provided for, fireclay bricks are used; red worker fit highest quality– light red color (fully annealed), without burn marks, distortion and swelling. Dry molded brick is absolutely unsuitable. The masonry of the structure is roughly carried out following the trail. rules:

• If you are an inexperienced stove maker, each row of masonry is first laid out dry; detected defects in cutting/chipping bricks are eliminated.
• Before laying on the mortar, each brick is soaked until the release of air bubbles stops. You can’t dump all the bricks into a barrel indiscriminately!
• A 5 mm layer of mortar is applied to the bed and the base of the brick being laid.
• The brick being laid is laid with a smooth movement, slightly tilted, and moved towards the previous one so that there are no air bubbles left in the seam.
• The brick is pressed until the seam comes together to 3 mm; You can't knock!
• Between fireclay and ordinary masonry, the initial seam is 8-10 mm; after pressing – 6 mm.
• The seam between bricks and metal embedded parts (see below) is 10 mm.
• Excess mortar squeezed out of the seam is removed with a trowel (trowel).
• The recesses in the seams found after removing the excess mortar are filled with the mortar by pressing without lateral movements, but not by mashing!

Those who prefer to learn visually can watch a video tutorial on laying heating and cooking stoves below:

Video: laying a heating and cooking stove

Accessories

Fittings and grates for roughing require cast iron; doors and latches - with an installation skirt and holes in it for diagonal wire whiskers. Welded steel or cast iron fittings with eyes for straight lugs (laid along the corresponding furnace wall) are unsuitable in this case. However, install the doors/latches as in Fig. on the right, in the rough it is impossible; This is not according to stove rules at all. For a Dutch country house with 2.5 bricks in plan, which is heated once or twice a season, it may be fine, but not for a rough one.

It is necessary, firstly, to crimp the mustache (galvanized wire 2-3 mm) with a twist so that it does not move. Press not too tightly at first, place it at the desired angle (at least 12 mm should remain from the far end of the mustache to the inside of the masonry). Then tighten carefully and shake the door/latch slightly. Didn't leave? Good. Then, secondly, you need to tightly wrap the skirt with asbestos cord (or basalt fiber), and only now put it in place. You can also watch the following videos about installing accessories into the oven.

Video: installing the oven door

Video: grates and stove

Design examples

The figure below shows the order of a simple rough wood for a seasonal dacha or temporarily inhabited house. A special feature is the minimal use of fireclay bricks (highlighted by textured filling), which, generally speaking, is difficult to do without in rough wood, and a niche above the hob. In cold weather, it speeds up cooking, and, if it is already warm enough outside, it prevents the stove from overheating the room while cooking.

On the trail. rice. – the arrangement of a single-burner coarse stove is also compact and light, but more complicated, with combined system channels. This is an option more suitable for a hunting lodge or a summer cottage where weekends are spent in winter.

Next in Fig. – arrangement of the house heating and cooking system with switching to winter and summer operation (two-way). This stove is quite complex, but quite economical both in winter and summer. Option for a permanently inhabited cottage or one-room house.

On the trail. rice. – order and drawings of a heating stove (firebox door can be glass) for a house of 2-3 rooms. In a 2-room apartment, this rug is placed in a wall, and in a 3-room apartment, the front faces the living room and the rear opens into 2 rooms adjacent to it; the partition between them is located on the back side (back) of the stove. Agree, 650 bricks for a heating stove for a 3-room house is not much.

Now - in Fig. Below is a rough diagram and order of the stove bench: a cooking area in the kitchen/hallway with a bathroom; bed - in the living room. This is already a very complex design for an experienced stove maker. For heating in warm weather, the bed is covered with a feather bed, etc., so that the room does not overheat, but then the windows in the kitchen/hallway will have to be kept wide open, because... switching to summer speed is not provided.

And finally - rough, so to speak, aerobatics, see fig. below: for a house with a heated attic, where an additional panel with staggered channels is located (in the inset below on the right). This stove can also be a fireplace stove if the firebox door is made of glass. It is 2-way; ZLH in the drawings is a summer valve.

About chimneys

The chimney for the rough must satisfy all fire safety regulations. Here it is only necessary to note that best chimney for coarse - sandwich, because it also does not require additional capital construction work.

Finally

If this is your first oven (which is quite possible), do not rush to build, model it on the table first. Suddenly you have a little extra money - you can buy a set for modeling stoves with layout diagrams and plastic bricks to scale, they sell these. No – bricks can also be cut to scale from foam plastic. Then it is convenient to imitate masonry seams using strips of thick paper or thin cardboard, depending on the selected scale.

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