How to make metal scaffolding with your own hands. The procedure for installing scaffolding from profile pipes and lumber

Scaffolding is one of the most popular structures, without which almost no construction can be completed. If you are building a house, cottage or country cottage, then do not rush to give money for ready product. In our material we will share the best instructions How to make a design yourself.

1. What is scaffolding: a brief educational program

In the very in a general sense scaffolding is a frame device made from components and sections, the parameters of which are standardized to international standards. They are designed to protect the activities of workers who are working on the construction or restoration of multi-story buildings.

1.1. Types of scaffolding

Scaffolding is made from metal and wood. Now let's figure out what modifications there are, depending on the type of connection of their components:

Wedges. They are indispensable when using massive materials and assemblies. This means you can be sure that they will not let you down even with the most extensive workload. Another significant advantage is the speed of dismantling.

Pin. They are especially loved by foremen for the speed of assembly/disassembly of the product. Based on the name, it is the pin that is the connection point.

Frame. They are relevant for finishing manipulations with plaster and paint. They differ from the others by a special frame, which is rigidly fixed with nodal fastenings to diagonal and horizontal posts. The cost won't hurt your wallet.

Clamps. They themselves are quite complex in execution: they are applicable to objects of increased importance. Issued in accordance with individual parameters premises. Literally every nuance is taken into account here.

Let's take a closer look at the installation methods for each type. scaffolding.

1.2. Device

The products have details such as:

• flooring lintels;
• spacers;
• enclosing element;
• stops;
• plank flooring;
• racks;
• stepladder (ladder).

2. Rules for installing wooden and metal scaffolding with your own hands

The first step begins with a well-designed drawing. Listen to advice professional builders: the width of the flooring should not exceed one meter; product height - six meters; the gap between the racks is in the range from two to two and a half meters. The standard level of lintels for the initial flooring is about half a meter from the ground.

For the next one, it is mounted at a height of 180 to 200 cm. And finally, for the third, it is installed at a height of 360-400 cm.

2.1. Wooden scaffolding: how to make it yourself

Do-it-yourself scaffolding from boards involves the following materials:

• boards 4-5 cm thick (for flooring and lintels);
• boards (width - from 10 cm, thickness - 5 cm) or timber with a special section (10*10 cm). They will be needed for processing thrust braces and racks;
• edged board “30” is useful when forming railings, couplers and spacers;
• screws and nails. The former are relevant when disassembling and assembling tall scaffolding, and the latter - at a break and for compact products.

Step No 1. Four posts are cut to the height of the scaffolding. In an area cleared of debris and foreign objects, they are laid out parallel to each other.

Step No 2. Then we securely fix with horizontal jumpers those of the racks on which you plan to place the flooring.

Step No 3. As a result, we have two “ladder” frames. Next, we mount them in a vertical position relative to each other. We strengthen with ties (horizontal and diagonal).

Step No 4. We prepare a strong flooring from bars. Then we securely mount it on the horizontal jumpers.

Step No 5. Now comes the turn of direct manipulation of the forests. They are connected at two side bevels.

Step No. 6. And only after this the railings and stairs are nailed. Ready!

2.2. Products made from profile pipes: detailed instructions

According to its principle this type forests are collected in a similar way. However, consider some nuances. They consist in the use of adapters, with the help of which an increase in product levels is achieved.

However, let's figure out what you need to buy to create one section:

1. Bolts with nuts and washers (ten pieces). They are very easy to fasten diagonal ties and then fix the base of the scaffold to the posts.
2. Profile pipe. You need to take about eight pieces of them. Material parameters: 25×25 mm or 35×35 mm. Provide an additional copy for installing railings. You will need one piece (up to two meters).
3. For the thrust bearings, buy four plates. Their material: metal. Thickness: two to three millimeters. Other parameters: 10×10 cm.
4. For racks and lintels, take eight segments: equally 1 and 1.5 meters, respectively.
5. Diagonal ties must be formed from four segments ( optimal length- about two meters) of a round pipe. It is best if its value does not exceed two centimeters.

Now let's get to work

• The first thing to start assembling scaffolding with your own hands from a profile pipe is: connecting the structure post to OSB sheet, which is the assembly shield. Clamps are ideal for this manipulation.
• Next, we securely attach the jumpers (horizontal) to the racks, and only then fix the adapters (from parts of pipes) into the upper ends of the racks (the optimal indentation is five centimeters). We use a welding machine.
• Afterwards, the finished device (tandem jumpers with stands) is first unfastened from the assembly board for the following manipulation: after changing the orientation (rotated by 90 degrees), it is returned to the structure: clamps are also useful for connecting to the board.
• Do not forget about such a necessary moment during installation as correct processing thin-walled pipes (for diagonal braces). For our purposes, we beat off their ends and middle with a hammer. Using a drill, we obtain spans for the bolts.
• Very carefully (in the center) screw the bolts into a pair of diagonal ties. Pre-measure the areas where the rack fixation points will be located.
• We join the racks with ties with nuts and bolts.
• Now let's deal with the railings and posts separately. We make a few holes on them with a drill.
• Thrust bearings (plates) are fastened to pieces of pipes. For this we use a welding machine.
• On final stage the structure is installed in a strictly vertical position. But it is necessary to provide thrust bearings. They are attached to the lower ends of the pipes.
• From the usual edged boards We make high-quality and solid flooring, which is placed above the side lintels. Experts recommend using lumber called “magpie” for these purposes.

Pay attention to the secrets that everyone who decides to assemble scaffolding themselves should know:

1. If you are faced with the task of increasing the length of the scaffolding, then you need to obey the following logic: we make holes in the existing sections (in the upper and lower parts). The bolts that will be located there will be the connecting link with the subsequent racks.
2. When you attach the ties, make sure to alternate: on scaffolding they are mounted on different sidewalls.
3. Not always, but when major renovation or large-scale construction, you may be faced with the need to add sections of the third tier (4.5 m). And then you cannot do without a profile pipe for a persistent mowing, which serves for the stability of the scaffolding. What you need to do: Create holes in the posts.
4. Metal corners(3*3 cm) will prevent the flooring from shifting. They are mounted in the area where the contact contacts the jumpers.

3. Universal dismantling scheme

This procedure has its own characteristics: the technology involves dismantling the structure from top to bottom in the reverse order of installation. However, do not forget that before the main manipulations you must:

• inspect the scaffolding flooring for the absence of any foreign objects: garbage, equipment, etc.;
• fence the site to avoid unforeseen situations;
• All exits to the balcony and window openings are tightly closed;
• make sure that the tools are in working order;
• a safety belt is required when the structure long time has not been used and there is a possibility that defects or traces of rust may form.

All types of products are dismantled tier by tier, section by section. Special attention Pay attention to the fastenings to the wall, which are disassembled according to a similar principle: remove the fastening hooks, which are located above the tier subjected to manipulation. When disassembling almost all scaffolding (except for the clamp variety), craftsmen advise removing the components of the tier and placing them on the ground.

So let's get started.

• First, take into account the strict sequence: fences - posts and fastening devices above the flooring of each tier - diagonal connections within the boundaries of this tier.
• Secondly, we move on to the flooring panel. It is not completely removed: one of the fragments will be useful for laying the tier under the one in question.
• Thirdly, at stairwells remove the railings, then the posts. And then - the boards of the platforms and stairs. And finally, it’s the turn of the tier frame: the crossbars (transverse and longitudinal) are removed.
• The wall mounts are disassembled. And the holes from them are rubbed with a special compound.

Throughout the entire process, you cannot do without ropes and blocks - reliable lifting devices. The elements obtained after dismantling must be inspected and packaged in order to store or transport scaffolding.

4. Video: making scaffolding yourself

Having mastered the technology of scaffolding installation, it’s time to put the acquired knowledge into practice. And if you are seriously wondering where, then the Stroika ru portal will come to the rescue here too. In our catalog you can always find and order high-quality products from reliable suppliers.

Photos and videos: www.google.ru.

During construction work outside and inside premises (if they contain high ceilings) scaffolding is often necessary - it is not necessary to make drawings of auxiliary structures with your own hands, but anyone can assemble them using a ready-made method.

Requirements for scaffolding for construction and repairs

Scaffolding is used very widely in construction and repair. Even ordinary DIY wall plaster without them it is not easy to carry out, and installation of a roof or wall siding becomes a very difficult task without auxiliary supporting structures. Of course, the mobility of stepladders or hastily knocked together trestle stools is higher, and their cost is noticeably lower.

But only solid-sized scaffolding will allow you not to be distracted by the constant movement of everything you need along the facade or wall being repaired. Saving time and effort, concentrating energy on repairs is the main benefit of scaffolding, homemade or purchased. Performance construction labor when using scaffolding, it increases several times - so their cost can be entered in the column “payment for speed and convenience of repairs.”

Any scaffolding structure must be reliable and durable - including taking into account the people, tools, construction and Supplies. If there is even the slightest doubt that the scaffolding cannot be assembled with the proper margin of stability, it is better to purchase a ready-made, branded product in a specialized store. Moreover, the choice of such goods is quite diverse.

Classification of scaffolding

The term “scaffolding” itself is associated with the historical experience of decorating facades with plaster, stucco and painting during the construction of palaces and other elite buildings. For plasterers and finishers, multi-meter “shelves” were erected from real logs and platforms. After the completion of the work, all this material was spent on firewood, leaving to descendants only its name and the principle of construction.

Modern options are based on a frame and are designed with reusable use in mind. Structurally, scaffolding can be made in the following options:

• Pin scaffolding is made of steel pipes, with welded bent fittings and socket locks. They are heavy and clumsy, requiring considerable time to assemble and move - but at the same time very durable. For example, stone or brickwork is best done with them. Pin scaffolding can be loaded with a large number of heavy building materials, they are very stable and durable;
• Frame scaffolding made of light aluminum and/or steel alloys - made of pipes and stiffeners with reliable fixation of the structure into a durable frame. May have wheels for moving on flat ground. Great for plastering or balcony siding– when the weight of building materials is small, and the work involves rapid movement along (up and down) the object being repaired;
• Wedge scaffolding is a kind of symbiosis of frame and pin structures, combining the advantages of both. They can withstand heavy loads and are still mobile. The fastening units are made in the form of flanges with slots, which allows you to create polygonal and broken lines along complex facades.
• Clamp scaffolding is a universal structure with low load capacity for repair and restoration of curved facades;
• Suspended - well-known “cradles”, with the help of which facade glass is washed and tile joints are sealed. A structure can also be suspended between two stationary scaffolds without support from the ground.

Suspended, clamp and wedge options are only available for purchase; their independent “production” is not recommended. Pin or frame scaffolding, the drawings of which are given below, can be assembled with your own hands if you have the appropriate carpentry and metalworking skills.

Scaffolding - do-it-yourself wood, step-by-step instructions

Wood is the easiest to process and at the same time inexpensive material- Creation wooden scaffolding fits into several repair stages, quite doable on your own. We will describe in detail how to make them from wooden beams, boards and slats.

How to make scaffolding with your own hands from wood - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Selecting and preparing wood

The work will require several types of wood. The load-bearing supports are made of timber measuring 10x10 cm (a smaller cross-section will not allow heavy construction work to be carried out from the scaffolding). Horizontal decking is made from thick boards (from 50 mm), stiffening ribs are made from boards from 25 mm thick. Fence slats with a thickness of 20 mm or more can be used. The wood for supports and platforms must be free of knots and cracks and must be treated special compounds to prevent rotting and mold.

Step 2: Planning the Frame

The end sides of wooden scaffolding must be made at a converging angle - this will significantly increase the stability of the structure and will not be an obstacle when repairing walls.

Besides, load-bearing supports It is advisable to choose solid 10x10 cm timber rather than composite ones - then the strength of the multi-storey structure will be higher. Minimum allowed width homemade scaffolding made of wood is 50 cm, their length can be 3-4 meters. The height limit is considered to be 6 meters, otherwise there is a high risk of the scaffold overturning during work. To work, you will need standard woodworking tools - saws and hacksaws, a plane, a drill and a screwdriver.

Step 3: Frame Construction

Two beams no more than 6 meters high are laid on a flat horizontal surface, the distance between them is equal to the planned length of the scaffolding. The other two are placed side by side in exactly the same way. The upper part of the beams should converge slightly upward for the stability of the entire structure. For a distance between supports of 4 meters along the length of the scaffolding at the bottom a convergence of 40-50 cm is enough up. That is, if the center-to-center distance between the support beams at the bottom is exactly four meters, then at the top it is set at 3.5-3.6 meters. The result is two symmetrical wooden trapezoids.

The timber sidewalls are screwed to the support beams with self-tapping screws. They will serve as supports for working decks, so they are mounted with inside. In general, wooden scaffolding self-made can have no more than three “assembly floors”, so there will be only four sidewalls made of timber. Three correspond to the levels of the scaffolding, and the bottom one serves for strength; it is fixed 20-30 cm from the ground.

Step 4: Making a volumetric frame

To connect the side trapezoids into solid scaffolding, you will need an assistant (or better yet, two). It is difficult to perform this operation alone, and the accuracy of the docking will certainly suffer. The side cross members are prepared in advance, and they will be different lengths. The fact is that sustainable scaffolding should be pyramidal in both width and length. The required convergence angle is small, otherwise an inconvenient gap will appear between the upper part of the scaffolding and the facade being repaired. Let's say, for a width of 1 meter, an upper clearance of 85-90 cm will be sufficient.

Having installed the wooden sides vertically and slightly tilting them towards each other, we fasten the side cross members with long self-tapping screws. The use of screws is preferable because after repair and construction work the scaffolding can be disassembled (partially or completely) and stored in a shed or garage.

Step 5: Final and Additional

All that remains is to nail the decking boards and fencing above each platform to the cross beams. On the sides of the scaffolding you can add additional crossbars that will serve as ladders. It is also useful to make a knot in the form of a retractable pin above each support for attaching the scaffolding to earthen soil– on flat surfaces it is removed, and the entire structure stands on the cuts of the end beams.

Building a house is a responsible undertaking that requires a thoughtful approach, materials, tools and equipment. It is among the latter that scaffolding can be considered. These structures serve to make it possible to do finishing work at high altitudes.

Scaffolding allows the following work to be carried out at a height of 4 to 10 meters:

• hem the gables,
• make siding,
• install a drain and so on.

In fact, finishing works more than enough. Moreover, scaffolding can be made higher than 10 meters, but there is one thing, such a design requires industrial capacities and relevant engineering knowledge. It is unlikely that you will be able to do it yourself in accordance with all standards.

Attention ! You must be aware that working on scaffolding involves risk. Therefore, their strength should not be doubted.

Many people decide to make scaffolding with their own hands because renting them is still a very expensive pleasure. Moreover, you have to pay a lot for delivery. Taking into account the fact that finishing work can last about several months, it is more profitable to build the structure yourself.

Choosing material

In principle, there are only two alternatives. You can make your own scaffolding from metal or wood. Moreover, each option has both its pros and cons.

Let's take as an example metal scaffolding. Making them with your own hands is not so easy. Moreover, this requires special equipment and materials that will most likely have to be purchased. But at the same time, a structure of this type has simply incredible stability and service life. It allows you to do the most complex work at a considerable height.

Advice ! After completing the work, metal scaffolding can be rented out. As a last resort, you can unwind them and put them in the garage.

If we rely on the experience of people who have encountered this issue, then the majority is inclined to believe that metal scaffolding can only be made if you have the necessary metal. The purchase turns out to be quite expensive. But if you want to make a business out of it, the costs must be worth it.

Making wooden scaffolding with your own hands is quite simple. In addition, after use they can be easily disassembled, and the boards, for example, can be burned in a fireplace or stove. In fact, it is a disposable building that is destroyed after one cycle of operation or given to a neighbor.

Of course, in terms of reliability, wooden scaffolding, which you can make with your own hands, is several times inferior to its metal counterpart. But they cost practically nothing. Moreover, on every summer cottage can be found suitable materials. Your main tools in this context will be a hammer and nails.

The main disadvantage of wooden scaffolding is its low strength and low stability. Of course, if everything is done well, then this design can be used. That's why it's so important to follow the instructions exactly.

Attention ! Do-it-yourself wooden scaffolding is quite difficult to preserve, since untreated wood easily rots.

Plastic - reality or fiction

Nowadays, more and more often, non-construction forums can see entire topics dedicated to plastic scaffolding. Of course, they exist and have a lot of important advantages over wooden and metal products. But it’s not possible to make them industrial conditions is not yet possible.

Attention ! Of course, if you have a 3-D printer, you can make your own plastic scaffolding.

Construction of different types of structures

Making wooden scaffolding

This simplest design, which you can do with your own hands in just a day. To ultimately get a strong and reliable structure, simply follow these instructions:

1. Take a board six meters long and place it against the wall.
2. Place a second board in parallel.
3. Fasten them together with crossbars. Make the second support in the same way.
4. Lay the flooring.
5. To provide increased rigidity take the brace boards. Use the ground as a support.
6. Increase level by level until you reach a sufficient height.

As you can see, making wooden scaffolding with your own hands is not so difficult, but there are many nuances that must be dealt with. Otherwise, the structure may not last for several days.

It is very important to make spans of optimal dimensions for the structure. The canon is considered to be a distance of two meters between risers. If necessary, it can be increased to two and a half. The width of the flooring is exactly one meter.

Another important nuance When constructing scaffolding, the question is which fasteners to use. Usually there are only two options: nails and screws. It is worth recognizing that both have their pros and cons.

Let's take self-tapping screws, for example. At first glance, these are ideal fasteners for making scaffolding with your own hands. But not everything is so simple. Their main disadvantage is excessive fragility.

Also, self-tapping screws, with which you can make scaffolding with your own hands, are quite susceptible to shock loads. Their cap just flies off. Naturally, this may lead to complete destruction of the structure.

That's why the best option In order to make scaffolding with your own hands you will need nails. Moreover, it is best to use 120 mm products. For better fixation, their tips are bent.

The main reason for the fragility of self-tapping screws is that they are made of hardened metal. This is why they often break under heavy loads. Nails are a completely different matter. They are based on soft metal. It may bend, but not break. That is why, if you want to make your own scaffolding, it is best to use them.

Unfortunately, despite their undeniable advantages, nails are not ideal. The main disadvantage of these fasteners is that it is impossible to carefully disassemble the structure. You'll have to break it. Naturally, the product cannot be used a second time.

Poet experienced builders I recommend it to all those who decide to make scaffolding with their own hands basic version fasten with self-tapping screws, and secure the final one with nails.

We make metal scaffolding with our own hands

First, we need to give one important clarification. In this option, the main structure is made of metal and the decking is made of wood. This optimal combination, allowing to achieve high performance qualities.

Attention ! Do-it-yourself scaffolding is not made exclusively from metal.

Aluminum can be used as a metal for the frame. It is lightweight, so installation should not be difficult. However, it is not able to withstand too much load and this must be taken into account. It is best for each span to have the following parameters:

• width - 100 cm;
• height - 150 cm;
• length from 165 to 200 cm.

This is the canon that will provide the building created with your own hands with the necessary stability.

When creating a structure made of metal, you need to be properly prepared, since here special meaning has quality materials, you will need:

• square profile,
• pipes for spacers,
• profile for connecting inserts,
• flooring boards,
• ladder,
• connecting elements.

Naturally, you won’t be able to limit yourself to materials alone; to create the intended project with your own hands, you will also need a number of tools, including:

• hacksaw for metal,
• drill,
• Bulgarian,
• welding machine.

With this toolkit you can build a metal auxiliary device with your own hands.

The construction of scaffolding with your own hands begins with compacting the earth where the product will stand. This will ensure increased reliability of the entire structure. Moreover, it won’t hurt to make a drainage system.

Attention ! Drainage is necessary element, if the finishing of facades will last for a long period of time.

Where the supports will stand, you must lay the boards with your own hands. This will provide greater stability. IN in this case no precaution will be unnecessary, since the slightest play can lead to the scaffolding collapsing, and you will not be able to do anything.

To make scaffolding from a profile pipe with your own hands, follow this algorithm:

To protect scaffolding from corrosion, you need to make a protective coating. All you need is anti-corrosion liquid and special paint.

Results

You can make scaffolding with your own hands. The complexity of the design directly depends on the material you choose, for example, plastic structures can only be done in industrial production conditions. The most simple option is a wooden structure.

All high-altitude work is characterized by increased complexity, and without special devices in this case it is definitely not possible. One of them is scaffolding. Their price is calculated in rubles/m², and even for the cheapest set (frame) it is about 140 - 145. Besides, where to put it then? Renting can also be expensive (from 55) if repairs or construction take a long time, which is what usually happens in practice.

Plus - there are some problems with transporting forests, since personal transport is not suitable for these purposes. In the field of low-rise development (for the private sector) optimal solution- make them yourself.

There are opinions that it is better (and cheaper) to rent metal and wood scaffolding than to assemble it yourself. The main argument is that purchasing pipes will cost more. And such judgments are supported by economic calculations. Apparently, the authors of such comments live in city apartments and have a rather vague idea of ​​what it means to maintain their home in proper condition (both the facade and the premises, the height of which, as a rule, exceeds the standard). But the owner has to do this regularly.

Moreover, the combination of materials such as metal (skeleton) and boards (flooring at each level) is considered optimal. One of the advantages of wooden scaffolding is (the second is the low final cost) that the structure after completion of construction (repair) is easily disassembled, and the material is used for other economic purposes. But there is also a significant drawback - a limitation in carrying capacity.

That is, such a device can only carry out work such as facade decoration (painting, siding), ceiling treatment, plastering and a number of others. During the construction brickwork or when several people are at a height at the same time, wooden scaffolding is unsuitable. But the assembly of pipes and boards is universal in use.

The only difficulty is in making the right choice options for scaffolding and the method of fastening all structural elements. The costs of manufacturing such multi-level scaffolding are justified only if they can be disassembled and stored in a shed (on site or somewhere else) until next application. But spending money on a non-separable, welded model is irrational, and hardly anyone will do it. It is impossible not to take into account such factors as the complexity of manufacturing, the strength of the structure and its stability.

Brief description of types of scaffolding

Clamps. Plus - the ability to change the geometry of the skeleton along any of the axes. The downside is the difficulty of installing/dismantling the structure. In addition, if necessary, increase bearing capacity you will have to buy fastening elements. In this case, wire alone, especially rope, is not enough.

Wedges. They differ from all similar models in increased reliability and durability. But manufacturing costs are immeasurably higher (primarily for holders). For the private sector this is not the best option.

Pin. Plus – light weight with the ability to withstand significant loads; ease of assembly (albeit relative). Minus - high price; high blood pressure on the ground. To ensure sustainability, a number of additional measures need to be taken. In the private sector, such forests are usually not used. The main reason is the complexity of manufacturing. Needed here accurate calculations and a welding machine.

Frame. Plus, the weight of the structure is small, but with proper drawing and assembly, such scaffolding can “carry” a load of up to 200 kg/m². The height limit is 50 m for a private building of great importance does not have. It is this model in the field of individual development that is considered the best.

What you will need

It is pointless to designate the exact linear quantities of structural elements - they simply cannot exist. The dimensions of scaffolding are selected based on the specifics of the work being carried out, the availability of space for their installation, the number of craftsmen simultaneously at height, and a number of other parameters.

All numerical values ​​are in mm.

According to the material:

• Duralumin. It costs less than steel, but such scaffolding is only suitable for low structures used for finishing work. They are not suitable for masonry construction due to their low load-bearing capacity.
• Steel. Such scaffolding for the private sector is universal in application. The explanation is quite clear - high strength and reliability of the frame.

By section:

• Vertical racks. Profile pipe 30 x 30.
• Spacers (diagonal, horizontal). Round pipe 15.
• Inserts (supports for fencing and decking). Profile 25 x 25.

To ensure sufficient strength of scaffolding decks - not lower than forty.

• Length – from 1600 to 2000.
• Width – within 1000.
• Height – 1550.

Those home craftsmen who for some reason are not satisfied with the given dimensions can take the following drawings as a basis.

Fasteners

• Bolts + nuts + washers + screws - for fastening metal elements.
• Self-tapping screws (for metal) – for fixing the boards at the place of installation.

Main stages of production

Preparing parts. First the pipes are cut. Even if a drawing has been drawn up, there is no need to rush with the boards. After assembling the scaffolding skeleton, their dimensions will still have to be clarified. This will eliminate unnecessary work if you need to adjust pre-prepared flooring elements to the location. ends round pipes(about 80) are flattened so that you can then drill holes for fasteners. To facilitate such “pressing”, it is worth making an axial cut (metal cut) to the specified length.

• Preparation of “horizontals”. Before using them in the frame assembly, inserts from the profile should be welded to each pipe in the places indicated in the drawing.
• Preparation of “verticals”. To ensure greater stability of the racks, a so-called mounting heel is welded on one end of each. Although it can be made removable - plate + profile section.
• Drilling holes in structural elements. Particular attention is paid to vertical and horizontal (racks, lintels). Mismatches will lead to distortions. Therefore, the part will definitely have to be changed, and this is an irrational use of materials.
• Setting up racks. The main thing at this stage is to ensure that they correspond to the vertical plane. The slightest distortion will significantly complicate the further assembly of scaffolding and will sharply reduce its load-bearing capacity. And it’s unlikely to make them more comfortable to work with. That is why all horizontal ties must be extremely identical (in length).
• Strengthening the structure. For this, diagonal spacers are used. The peculiarity of their fastening is symmetry. If this condition is met, then the entire load on the scaffolding will be distributed more evenly over the entire area.
• Making stairs. The practice of using homemade scaffolding shows that portable models are preferable to stationary ones. For efficient work(in relation to the private sector) one removable staircase is quite enough. It is small in size and can be easily removed and installed in another place if necessary. The material is the same - pipe.
• Construction of scaffolding. The boards are stacked in last resort, after final adjustment to size. They are attached to welded inserts with self-tapping screws.

To ensure maximum stability of scaffolding it is necessary:

• prepare “shoes” with the help of which the structure is leveled at the installation site. It’s easy to make them from boards with your own hands; preferably several pieces and different thicknesses. In the future, this will simplify the process of adjusting the position of the scaffolding relative to the ground;
• treat the soil in the area where they are planned to be used. It is leveled (if necessary) and compacted. This ensures that during the work there will be no shrinkage of the soil (under load) and distortion of the scaffolding.
• Most often, one section is not enough. In this case, more is done - two, three. To connect them into a single assembly, it is necessary to prepare adapters. The same profile (30 x 30) is suitable, which is cut into pieces of 100 and welded to the racks. To fix the sections, you can use U-shaped metal earrings. To make the connection as reliable as possible, you should also take a pipe for them, but with a slightly smaller cross-section (25 x 25) or diameter.

If you carefully look at the manufacturing process, it turns out that there is nothing complicated in assembling scaffolding. The main thing is correct calculation and accuracy.

Before you make scaffolding with your own hands, evaluate all the advantages and disadvantages of this structure. Although such homemade auxiliary structures at a construction site help save money, their safety and practicality remain in question. In our article we will tell you how to make wooden scaffolding and carry out comparative analysis traditional inventory forests and these structures.

In the photo, do-it-yourself scaffolding

Construction methods

By making temporary structures yourself, you can build several types of auxiliary products, which will differ both in purpose and in the materials used for production. Depending on the area of ​​use, homemade scaffolding is divided into:

• structures for repair and finishing work with a small load on the flooring;
• Products for masonry work with high load capacity.

Depending on the materials, handmade woods are:

• metal;
• wooden.

We will consider the manufacturing process of each type of scaffolding separately. But in any case, the greatest attention must be paid to the safety of auxiliary structures. If the scaffolding manufacturing process was carried out according to all the rules, then there is no doubt about the reliability and functionality of the scaffolding. Before you make scaffolding with your own hands, you need to study the regulatory documentation, because this type of temporary structures must necessarily comply with GOSTs and SNiPs.

Of course, you can buy homemade scaffolding, but this way you cannot be 100% sure of the quality of the materials used to assemble the scaffolding, their reliability and compliance with the requirements of current regulatory documents.

DIY scaffolding made of wood

The most important thing in the manufacture of wooden scaffolding is maintaining the verticality of the rack elements or the required angle of inclination when making low structures from boards. In any case, when making scaffolding from boards with your own hands, you must adhere to this rule. This is the only way you can be sure of the stability and safety of the structure.

In the photo, do-it-yourself scaffolding from boards

To make vertical load-bearing elements of such structures, it is better to take boards 4 cm thick. But when using 100x100 mm timber, the structure will be much stronger and more reliable. To ensure that the product is stable and cannot accidentally fold during operation, it is better to use double diagonal braces in each span. It is better to mount diagonals so that they are fixed to several racks and to the walls of the object at once.

Homemade wooden scaffolding has one undeniable advantage– scaffolding material can be used for other purposes after the structure is dismantled. But do not forget that renting scaffolding will allow you to save your money and time, and also get the most durable, stable and safe structure that fully complies with all the requirements of regulatory documentation.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling wooden scaffolding

The attached drawings for DIY wooden scaffolding will help you better understand the process. We carry out the work in this order:

We have already figured out how to make scaffolding with our own hands from wood, all that remains is to calculate the consumption of materials. Of course, in each specific case, the calculation must be carried out taking into account the dimensions of the temporary structure. To give you an idea of ​​the amount of materials, we will give a calculation for a structure with dimensions of 300x200x40 cm. So, you will need 6 meters of edged boards with a cross-section of 20x4 cm to assemble the working flooring, as well as 36 m of timber with a cross-section of 150x100 mm for the manufacture of support posts. We can then calculate the total cost of homemade scaffolding based on the price of one cubic meter wood

A video on how to build scaffolding with your own hands will help you better understand the assembly process.

In the photo, do-it-yourself scaffolding made of wood

DIY scaffolding made from pipes

To execute this type auxiliary structures with your own hands, you must use steel pipes diameter 4-6 cm with large thickness walls. To connect tubular elements into one structure, you can use clamp fasteners. Detailed drawings for do-it-yourself scaffolding made from pipes can be found on the Internet.

Typically, homemade temporary steel structures are no more than 6-8 m high, since difficulties arise in purchasing and delivering a long pipe to the installation site. Insignificant height is, perhaps, the main disadvantage of self-made metal scaffolding. If you need to do work at height, it is much easier to buy or rent ready-made factory scaffolding.

DIY scaffolding drawings

Making scaffolding with your own hands is justified only when constructing a small country house, dacha or cottage. For professional developers and large construction companies it is most advisable to purchase ready-made kits auxiliary equipment, which will be durable, reliable and safe, and most importantly, can be reused.

You can also weld metal scaffolding with your own hands rather than fasten it with clamps. However, in this case you lose. Firstly, the structure cannot be disassembled for storage or for transportation to a new location. Secondly, the resulting rigid scaffolding structure cannot be adjusted to the characteristics of the object under construction: it is impossible to change the height of the flooring or change the pitch of the posts.

But if you are going to make frame scaffolding with your own hands, then welding may be needed to make frame structural elements. You can also find drawings online that explain how to make your own pin scaffolding.

What to choose?

To understand what is better, do-it-yourself scaffolding or ready-made traditional temporary structures, you need to know the features of the object under construction and the purpose of the scaffolding. If it is necessary to erect a large structure, a large team of workers will work, and significant loads on the flooring are expected, then it is much better and safer to use a factory set of auxiliary structures. Moreover, scaffolding for rent also allows you to save money, just like structures made by yourself.

DIY scaffolding from pallets

Do-it-yourself scaffolding: advantages

• Saving. A set of ready-made scaffolding costs at least 150 rubles. behind square meter equipment. Homemade scaffolding will cost much less, especially if you have the materials to make them.
• If you require temporary structures for disposable during construction own home, then hand-made scaffolding for a dacha will be the best option.
• You can make stronger scaffolding with your own hands from a profile pipe. However, this is only justified if you have the materials. It is not profitable to specifically buy a pipe and make scaffolding out of it, especially since you can always rent such equipment.
• Another opportunity to save money could be the purchase of ready-made homemade scaffolding. For example, there are reviews that do-it-yourself Armenian scaffolding is distinguished by its reasonable price and excellent quality.

Disadvantages of homemade scaffolding:

From the proposed photos you can understand how to make scaffolding with your own hands. But let's list all the disadvantages of such auxiliary structures:

• Factory scaffolding can be assembled and dismantled in a couple of hours. The homemade scaffolding can take a whole day to assemble.
• Difficulties in constructing scaffolding with your own hands are not in their favor. In traditional steel structures, all components are calculated and thought out to the smallest detail. In addition, attached detailed instructions assemblies.
• The weight of wooden homemade scaffolding is much greater than that of prefabricated steel structures.

How to make scaffolding with your own hands (video):

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