How to make a light on a walk-behind tractor, because most models are not equipped with headlights? Motoblock (mini-tractor) is a mechanism that is designed for agricultural work (plowing, cultivation, watering, etc.). Many models can be used as a vehicle with mounted trailers. In this form, walk-behind tractors transport people and goods, which facilitates harvesting.
Electrical system of the unit
Medium and heavy walk-behind tractors are equipped with electric generator, which charges the battery and powers the headlight. The main function of the battery is to start the engine of a mini tractor using an electric starter. On medium and heavy walk-behind tractors it is possible to connect several headlights (main and rear for the trailer), direction indicators.
The power of the running generator is sufficient for the installation of additional electrical equipment, as well as stable simultaneous operation of all electrical appliances of the walk-behind tractor. Manufacturers have provided for the possibility additional installation electrical equipment and equip mini-tractors with generators with a power reserve of about 30%.
The capacity of the battery corresponds to the starting current of the electric starter. On most models of mini-tractors, generators are installed without electrical excitation. It will be replaced by constantly spinning magnets. Most often, manufacturers install single-phase generators that produce alternating current.
Self-installation of the headlight
If the unit is purchased without a lighting system, then do not be upset. You can install it yourself. Some manufacturers sell a lighting kit (headlight, wires and switch) separately, earning extra money on this option, realizing that most owners will use a walk-behind tractor as a vehicle. The engine has a special place for connecting the factory headlight. The cost of such a kit, depending on the manufacturer, ranges from 1800 to 5000 rubles. It would seem that this is little money compared to the price of a mini-tractor, but why spend it if lighting can be made from improvised means?
Let's consider in detail how to connect the headlight to the walk-behind tractor. The first step is to find the lighting element itself. Almost every owner of the unit has another mechanical means(car, moped, scooter, tractor) to which additional headlights are attached. If this is not the case, then a used headlight can be purchased at disassembly sites or in the automotive market to save money. If possible, it is best to purchase a new headlight, which can be matched in color to the color of the mini-tractor. For this, a headlight for a small motorcycle or scooter is suitable.
It is necessary to purchase both a toggle switch and the required length of electrical wire.
by the most convenient place The installation of the toggle switch (switch) of the headlight is the steering column near the gear lever.
Install and secure the switch. Next, we move on to installing the headlights. Find a place that is convenient for her. The front of the engine or steering column is best suited for mounting this equipment. Experts advise mounting the headlight on the steering column tube, because the one placed on the engine will become dirty when driving in the rain. Next, we stretch the wires. If there is a place on the walk-behind tractor to connect the factory headlight, then we connect the wires to it, but if it is absent, then it is most convenient to stretch the power from the oil pressure control lamp terminal. Next, we connect the wires to the switch, and from it we pull the cord to the headlight, using the body of the walk-behind tractor as a mass. We wind the wires with clamps or electrical tape to the steering column.
The question of how to make light on a walk-behind tractor has to be decided by everyone who purchased this unit without a standard headlight. Today, most models of domestic and foreign production are designed to work only during daylight hours. And those that have a built-in flashlight do not always provide high-quality lighting. The factory headlight illuminates a narrow sector in front of the car and quickly gets dirty. On sale are ready-made kits, which can be installed on the Neva, Plowman, Volgar, Forza and other domestic-made units. With average quality, such sets have a high cost. You can save a lot if you make a light on a walk-behind tractor with your own hands. With a headlight, the cultivator will become much more functional and more convenient to use. Consider the options for how to connect the headlight to the walk-behind tractor.
Using a generator
If the unit is equipped with its own generator, then the solution to the issue of arranging lighting is greatly simplified. You just need to install a flashlight and bring power to it.
To do this, you will need the following tools and devices:
- electric drill;
- soldering iron;
- set of screwdrivers;
- spanners;
- wire cutters;
- stationery knife;
- electrical cable;
- heat-shrink tubing;
- headlight, position and turning lights.
Installing the headlight on a walk-behind tractor using a standard generator is carried out in the following sequence:
- The bases of lighting devices are screwed to the body of the unit. It is advisable to put the headlight on the walk-behind tractor on a separate bracket located on the front part with an elevation of 100-120 cm above the ground.
- On the steering column we install the buttons for turning on the lamp, turning and side lights. You should choose devices of increased strength, in a moisture-proof design. Fixation is carried out with clamps or self-tapping screws for metal.
- The electrical cable is pulled into a corrugated tube. This must be done so that the wiring is protected from moisture, mechanical damage and rodents. The corrugated tube is attracted to the steering column and frame so that there is no sagging.
- The wires are connected to the generator and electrical equipment terminals. The engine is started and the lighting system is tested. After that, all twists and junctions are isolated.
When idling and at low speeds, the light dims. In order for the lighting to be constant, you need to use a voltage stabilizer or install a powerful generator.
These devices are compact, they can easily find a place on the body of the cultivator. To connect a non-standard one, you will need to make an additional bracket. It is assembled from a steel angle on the frame of the machine.
Battery lighting
You can make light on a walk-behind tractor without a generator by installing a 12 V battery. A battery from a motorcycle, moped or boat is taken as a power source. Don't waste your car battery. If you put a heavy power source on the cultivator, then you can solve several incidental problems - equip the unit with an electric starter and significantly weight its body. In addition, it would be useful to be able to illuminate the area at night without the engine running. This feature can be useful for a picnic or night fishing.
Installing the headlight on a walk-behind tractor using a battery is carried out in the following sequence:
- Arrangement of the frame for the power source. It is best to use a steel corner for this. The frame should be attached directly to the body frame of the cultivator. After lowering the battery into a niche, it is firmly fixed in it with steel bands.
- Attaching a lantern and auxiliary lights. The headlight on the walk-behind tractor is placed so that it illuminates the widest possible sector without blinding the operator and oncoming vehicles. It is better to choose devices with an adjustable glow angle.
- Location electric cable in the corrugation along the body of the unit. Installation and connection of control devices. Tester checking the correct assembly of the electrical system.
- Connecting the wire to the battery terminals, outputting the wire to the mounting box. Connecting wires to the switch, performing insulation of joints, joints and twists.
In order for the battery capacity to last for a long time, you need to insert into the lights LED lamp. They consume a small amount of energy, creating bright lighting.
If the battery is not located under the regular hood of the walk-behind tractor, then a separate casing must be made. To do this, you can take a piece of dense plastic, give it desired shape and screw to makeshift racks on the frame.
When deciding to install a battery, you should consider the issue of recharging it. This will require the purchase charger or installation on a motor cultivator of an electric generator.
Motoblocks of the MB type are the most widespread. In Russia, models produced since the beginning of the 80s, which are constantly being improved. A wheeled pedestrian-ride unit of traction class 0.1 with mounted and trailed implements is used to perform a wide range of work on household plots.
The presence of a large train of mounted and trailed implements and aggregates allows it to be used for loosening and plowing the land, hilling and digging up root crops, mowing and raking grass. Transportation of fertilizers and small cargoes, watering, crushing feed, drive circular saw, mixer mortars, generator, drilling shallow wells, as well as for clearing snow from roads and yards.
The use of a walk-behind tractor allows you to drastically reduce the proportion of heavy manual labor and, which is very important, save time.
The use of a walk-behind tractor is most effective in areas with a cultivated area of 6 ... 40 acres.
Before starting work with each new unit, the user of the walk-behind tractor must carefully read the instruction manual.
This section provides specifications aggregates and a number of useful tips based on personal experience users.
The engine includes the following main components and systems:
- cylinder block 1;
- gas distribution mechanism 2;
- crank mechanism 3;
— fuel supply system 4;
— ignition system 5;
— starting device 6;
— cooling system 7.
Components of the engine, left side view.
Engine assembly showing transverse and longitudinal sections
Engine DM-1D (longitudinal section along the axis of the crankshaft): 1 - compression ring; 2 - oil scraper ring; 3 - piston pin; 4 - retaining ring; 5 - connecting rod; 6 - stator; 7 — a bolt of fastening of a rod; 8 - bearing; 9 - clutch housing; 10 - bolt; 11 - starter drum; 12 - starter spring; 13 - washer; 14 - ratchet spring; 15 - support sleeve; 16 - ratchet; 17 - ring; 18 - ball; 19 - cover; 20 - key; 21 - cuff; 22 - starting cord; 23 - casing; 24 - flywheel; 25 - magnetic shoe; 26 - fan housing; 27 - head mounting bolt; 2S - head; 29 - gasket; 30 - piston; 31 - cylinder liner; 32 - cylinder block; 33 - block casing; 34 - crankshaft; 35 - camshaft gear; 36 - bearing; 37 - cuff; 38 - oil-spray gel; 39 - axis; 40 - centrifugal regulator; 41 - gasket: 42 - cylinder block cover; 43 - lever.
Engine DM-1D (longitudinal section along the axis of the camshaft): 1 - exhaust valve; 2 - saddle; 3 - sleeve; 4 - spring; 5 - plate; 6 - pusher; 7 - sleeve; 8 - bolt; 9 - decompressor load; 10 - cam; 11 - sleeve; 12 - camshaft with decompressor; 75 - cylinder block cover; 14 - centrifugal regulator; 15 - ignition screen; 16 - inlet valve; 17 - sleeve; 18 - decompressor pusher.
The cylinder block is the basis in which and on which the remaining components and systems of the engine are mounted.
A detailed device of the crank mechanism, which converts the reciprocating motion of the crankshaft, is given. 
The device of the crank mechanism: 1 - crankshaft; 2 - flywheel key; 3 - bearing 60206; 4 - connecting rod cover; 5 - connecting rod; 6 - piston oil scraper ring; 7 - lower compression ring; 8 - top compression ring; 9 - retaining ring; 10 - piston pin; 11 - piston; 12 - oil spray gel; 13 - quotation washer; 14 - bolt; 15 - camshaft with a decompressor of the gas distribution mechanism.
The gas distribution mechanism (Fig. 10) ensures the timely entry of the fuel-air mixture into the engine cylinder and the release of exhaust gases.
Camshaft 8 with cams 10 and 11 is driven through a permanently meshed gear train from the crankshaft.
The required valve timing (intake, compression, power stroke, exhaust) is provided by matching the alignment marks (Fig. 9) on the gears of the camshaft and crankshaft, performed during engine assembly.
Features of carburetor adjustment are described in the engine diagnostics and repair section.
The DM-1 engines installed on the Cascade motoblocks, depending on their version, have design features, indicated in the note to section 1. One of the fundamental differences is the use of forced lubrication of a large connecting rod head to increase the engine's service life.
The operation of the device for forced lubrication of the connecting rod journal of the crankshaft with a large connecting rod head is illustrated in Fig. 23.
Rice. 23. Forced lubrication device: 1 - crankshaft; 2 - connecting rod; 3 - nipple; 4 - oil supply cable; 5 - crankshaft gear; 6 - shield; 7 - plug.
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Before assembling the engine, clean and flush the components and parts to be assembled. Lubricate the engine cylinder, pushers, piston with connecting rod, crankshaft journals with engine oil before installation.
Place the cylinder block in place. Insert the crankshaft into the cylinder block support bearing.
Using a mandrel (Fig. 24) with a tapered inner hole, insert a piston with a connecting rod into the cylinder. In the absence of a special mandrel for crimping the rings, when installing the piston, it is possible to use tin tape and pliers.
When installing the piston, it is necessary to ensure that the piston rings do not stick in the grooves of the piston, the compression rings are installed with the locks shifted by 180 degrees, the oil cleaning ring is shifted by 90 degrees with respect to the lock of the upper compression ring. Insert the lower head of the connecting rod onto the crankshaft journal, put on the connecting rod cover, sprayer oil, lock washer and tighten with a torque: first - 15 + 5 Nm, finally - 25 + 2 Nm. Bend the locking tabs of the lock washer.
Install the pushrods in the cylinder block (to prevent them from falling out, turn the cylinder block on the side wall).
Install the camshaft so that the mark on the crankshaft gear tooth is against the mark on the camshaft gear cavity.
Rice. 24. Mandrel for installing a piston with rings and a connecting rod in the cylinder: 1 - mandrel; 2 - piston; 3 - cylinder block.
Turn the crankshaft, while checking that the spray oil does not touch the wall of the cylinder block housing.
Check the ease of rotation of the centrifugal governor gear with weights on the axis of the cylinder block cover.
Install the gasket and cylinder block cover, while turning the crankshaft slightly so that the gear with weights engages with the camshaft gear. If necessary, tighten the regulator gear with a thin screwdriver.
Tighten the bolts (gradually) of the cylinder block cover. Final tightening torque (15…20) Nm.
Install the key on the crankshaft cone and put on the flywheel with the washer.
Using a technological nut (M18), pre-tighten with a torque (120 ... 130) Nm to fit the flywheel onto the crankshaft cone.
Before disassembling the engine, check the value of the axial play of the crankshaft, which should not exceed (1-1.5) mm. Increased play caused by worn bearings can be removed without dismantling the motor without replacing them. For this:
dismantle the pulley from the crankshaft, remove the bearing cover and settle it;
make from soft wire a ring corresponding to the diameter of the outer race of the bearing, and install it between the cover and the bearing without blocking the oil channel;
replace the cover
Disassembled at the crankshaft, check the absence of chipped gear teeth, wear of the neck and the absence of sagging on it aluminum alloy(which happens after the engine is jammed due to insufficient lubrication of the connection between the connecting rod and the crankshaft journal).
Remove sags by cleaning the neck with a file (until it slips) and then finishing the surface sandpaper and neck flush.
Inspect the keyway on the crankshaft cone. The flywheel key must fit into the groove without effort and have no lateral play.
The piston must not have carbon deposits on the bottom and in the grooves of the piston rings. Cracks of any nature on the piston, pin and connecting rod are unacceptable, such parts require replacement.
Gas distribution mechanism: 1 - valve; 2 - washer; 3 - valve spring; 4 - inlet valve plate. 5 - outlet valve plate. 6 - cracker; 7 - pusher; 8 - camshaft with decompressor; 9 - alignment mark of the camshaft gear; 10 - exhaust valve cam; 11 - intake valve cam.
During operation, the camshaft cams, plates fixing the spring on the valve stem are subject to wear at the gas distribution mechanism, loss of tightness of the working surfaces of valves and seats, deformation of the intake valve stem (usually as a result of installing a candle with a long skirt on the engine).
If there are signs of defects in the operation of the valves, dismantle the fuel tank, remove the cylinder head, muffler, carburetor and valve box.
Check the tightness of the contact between the valves and the seats, for which pour kerosene (or gasoline) on the valve heads. With serviceable parts, there should be no leakage of kerosene under the valve into the valve box.
Remove the defective valve by pressing the valve spring up with a screwdriver, turn the plate so that it comes out of the socket and releases the valve from the spring. Remove spring and valve.
In the case of fastening the valve spring with crackers, it is necessary, after pressing the valve spring upwards, to disengage and remove the crackers.
To reduce the degree of compression in the cylinder and the effort of turning the crankshaft when starting the engine, the camshaft is equipped with a decompressor
Silencer (1) with locknut (2)
To release exhaust gases, the engine is equipped with a muffler (Fig. 12), screwed into the cylinder block and locked with nut 2.
The fuel supply system is designed to prepare the fuel-air mixture, control the quality of its composition and the amount supplied. The main nodes included in this system and their arrangement are shown in Fig. 13. 
Rice. 13. Nodes of the fuel supply system: 1 - carburetor (KMB-5); 2 - gasket; 3 - branch pipe; 4 - washer; 5 - screw 6; 6 - screw 6; 7 - gasket; 8 - hose; 9 - fuel valve; 10 - nut 6; 11 - tank clamp; 12 - screw b; 13 - fuel tank; 14 — screw 1-4×13; 15 - cork; 16 - tank mounting bracket; 17 - valve box; 18 - gasket; 19 - tube; 20 - air filter cover; 21 - filter element; 22 - ring; 23 - branch pipe; 24 - sealing ring; 25 - bracket; 26 - ring; 27 - screw 6; 28 - nut M6; 29 - gasket
Appearance carburetor K45
Rice. 14. K45 carburetor: 1 - air pipe; 2 - body; 3 - drowner; 4 - idle jet; 5 - throttle stop screw; 6 - throttle lever; 7 - carburetor mounting flange; 8 - composition adjustment screw fuel mixture idle move; 9 - fuel inlet fitting with a filter; 10 - float chamber; 11 - throttle actuator lever; 12 - sludge drain plug; 13 - air damper screw with a spring; 14 - air damper lever.
The amount of the fuel-air mixture entering the combustion chamber of the engine is regulated by a throttle valve, in the lower part of the axis of which a lever 11 is attached, to which the regulator rod is attached. A lever with screw 5 of the throttle stop is welded to the upper part of the axle.
The air damper is controlled by lever 14. In closed position the air damper is held by the force of the spring and, when the engine is started, will open slightly at a certain angle under the influence of the pressure difference before and after the damper.
The spring force and the angle of the half-open damper are selected in such a way as to avoid excessive enrichment of the fuel mixture when starting a cold engine.
The fuel supply system is equipped with a centrifugal regulator (Fig. 15) to automatically maintain a constant crankshaft speed when the load changes.
Rice. Fig. 15. Elements of the centrifugal regulator (a) and the regulator gear in section (b): 1 - gear with weights; 2 - thrust lever of the regulator; 3 - lock; 4 - nut; 5 - bolt M5; 6 - regulator lever; 7 - thrust; S - spring; 9 - carburetor board; 10 - washer; 11 - spring washer; 12 - screw M6x12; 13 - washer; 14 - gear weights; 15 - pusher; 16 - axis
Gear 1 with weights is in constant engagement with the camshaft gear. L-shaped weights 14 are fixed on the gear with the help of axles 16 so that with one shoulder they rest against the pusher 15 associated with the lever 2 of the regulator rod.
The kinematic diagram of the engine control, illustrating the operation of the centrifugal regulator, is shown in fig. 16.
With an increase in the load on the engine and a decrease in the number of its revolutions, the centrifugal forces acting on the weights 2. and the force of action of the weights 2 on the pusher 3 decrease. And this, through the system of levers -/ and 5, will lead to a decrease in the tensile force of the spring 8. through thrust b turns the throttle valve 7 of the carburetor (in Fig. 16, the movements are shown by arrows) to increase fuel consumption. In this case, the engine speed increases almost to the previously set value.
Rice. 16. Kinematic scheme of engine control: 1 - gear wheel of the centrifugal regulator; 2 - weight; 3 - pusher; 4 - thrust lever of the regulator; 5 - regulator lever; 6 - thrust; 7 - throttle valve of the carburetor; 8 - spring; 9 - engine control lever; 10 - throttle cable
When using K45 carburetors in power systems for MB-2 motoblocks, individual parts included in the system, namely: tube 19 (Fig. 13) of the valve box, lever b (Fig. 15) of the regulator, rod 7. spring 8. fuel tank 13 and elements of its fastening are structurally changed. In addition, the board 9 of the carburetor has been improved and instead of the pipe 3 (Fig. 13), an adapter flange is installed.
Valve box 17 (Fig. 13) provides relief of excess pressure in the crankcase during the reverse stroke of the piston, while being discharged from. crankcase air through the tube 19 is supplied to the air filter.
Carburetor:
If there is no fuel supply to the cylinder (dry spark plug), check that there is enough fuel in the fuel tank, fuel flow from the fuel tank to the carburetor by removing the fuel hose from the carburetor inlet fitting (or, for the K45 carburetor, by pressing its booster until fuel leaks through drainage hole).
If fuel is not supplied to the carburetor, unscrew the fuel valve, disassemble it, clean the filter element from dirt, wash the parts in gasoline. Assemble the fuel cock, purge and reinstall.
When fuel enters the carburetor (and there is no supply to the cylinder), check the operation of the fuel valve and the cleanliness of the carburetor jets.
To check the KMB-5 carburetor, remove the carburetor from the engine, drain the gasoline from the float chamber. Supply air through the fuel supply fitting (Fig. 25) in the working position of the carburetor. Air must flow freely. Repeat the operation with the carburettor turned 180°. The passage of air through the fitting must stop. If these conditions are met, the fuel valve is OK.
Adjust the fuel level in the float chamber by bending or bending the adjusting tongue of the float. The fuel level is considered normal (30 ... 35) mm.
Rice. 25. KMB-5 carburetor: 1 - fuel supply fitting; 2 - upper case; 3 - throttle valve; 4 - small gas needle; 5 - air jet; 6 - lower case; 7 - air damper; S - screed fastening screw; 9 - full throttle needle; 10 - atomizer; 11 - float; 12 - fuel valve.
To purge the jets, unscrew the low and full throttle adjustment screws.
To flush the carburetor elements, unscrew the screws of the upper housing, remove the lower housing, flush the fuel valve with gasoline, clean and blow through the jets with a pump, check the integrity of the float. Wiping of carburetor parts with rags is not allowed.
After flushing and purging, dock the lower carburetor body to the upper one, paying attention to the atomizer tube, which should enter the hole in the upper body. Open the throttle and check the correct assembly, then tighten the screws securing the upper housing.
The carburetor installed after disassembly requires adjustment.
Adjust the carburetor on a warm engine in the following sequence.
Turn in the idle and full throttle adjustment screws (fig. 25) until they stop (without much effort), then turn them out 1.5 turns. Start the engine, warm it up for 10 minutes. Set the engine control lever to the minimum steady speed position without stopping the engine. Set the throttle stop screw to the minimum idle speed at which the engine runs stably, without interruption.
By adjusting the position of the idle screw, set the maximum idle speed, then adjust the minimum stable idle speed with the throttle stop screw.
Repeat the last two operations to achieve stable, trouble-free operation of the engine idling at the lowest possible speed.
Move the engine control lever to the GAS position. If engine misfire occurs, loosen the full throttle screw until stable operation is obtained, but no more than 2.5 turns.
Engine DM-1-01. mounted on MB-1D motoblocks. differs in that it uses a membrane-type carburetor model DM 1.08.100. External view of the carburetor DI1.08.100 is shown in fig. 22.
Rice. 22. Appearance of the carburetor DM1.08.100: 1 - full throttle screw; 2 - small gas screw; 3 - air damper lever; 4 - minimum speed screw; 5 - flange; 6 - dosing device; 7 - branch pipe; 8 - tide: 9 - hairpin; 10 - nut; 11 - inlet fitting; 12 - button.
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The ignition system provides timely sparking to ignite the fuel-air mixture in the engine combustion chamber
In MB-1 motoblocks and in MB-2 motoblocks manufactured before 04/01/96, an ignition system with an electronic magdino EM-1 was installed, a device and circuit diagram which are shown in Fig. 17, a and 17, b.
Rice. 17. Ignition system with electronic magdino EM-1 a - device; b - diagram: 1 - converter PMK-1; 2 - ignition screen; 3 - stator SMK-1; 4 - suppressive resistance; 5 - spark plug; b - washer; 7 - bolt; 8 - spring washer; 9 - sleeve; 10 - stop button; 11 - magnetic flywheel shoe.
When the crankshaft rotates with the flywheel attached to it, the magnetic shoe 11 of the flywheel periodically passes under the magnetic core of the stator 2, creating a magnetic field in it that induces an EMF in the stator winding 3. The voltage from the stator through a high-voltage wire and interference suppression resistance 4 is supplied to the spark plug 5, between the electrodes which generates an electric spark.
From 04/01/96, in the MB-2 "Neva" walk-behind tractors, an engine ignition circuit with an EM-2 electronic magdino is installed, the circuit of which is shown in fig. eighteen. Distinctive feature of this scheme, compared with the previous one, is that the stator and converter are structurally combined into one unit with potentially more
its high reliability due to the exclusion of external connecting wires between stator and converter. 
The starting device is used to start the engine of the walk-behind tractor. The main components and parts included in it are shown in Fig. 19 and 20.
Rice. nineteen. Ratchet mechanism starting device: 1 - flywheel; 2 - washer; 3 - clutch housing; 4 - ring; 5 - ball 10-100; 6 - ratchet; 7 - cover; 5 - protective casing; R - washer; 10 - spring washer; 11 - screw M4x14. 
Rice. 20. Starter: 1 - bracket; 2 - handle; 3 - cord; 4 - starter drum; 5 - starter spring; 6 - support sleeve; 7 - pr
supper; 8 - fan case; 9 - screw M6x12; 10 - spring washer: 11 - washer; 12 - spring washer; 13 - bolt M6x16.
The engine cooling system is air, forced. The function of the fan is performed by the flywheel 1 (Fig. 19), equipped with an impeller.
Air intake is carried out through housing 7 (Fig. 20) of the fan.
Further, the air flow is split between the surfaces of the cylinder block, finned for better cooling, and the screen b of the cylinder head (Fig. 8), as well as the screens shown in Fig. 21 
Screens of the cooling system: 1 - reflector; 2 - screen; 3 - spring washer; 4 - screw M6x10.
The use of oil recommended by the manufacturers of walk-behind tractors helps to minimize the occurrence of malfunctions during engine operation. Each user of a walk-behind tractor must remember that oil provides engine protection during operation in four ways:
1. LUBRICATION - lubrication of moving parts operating with minimal clearances in order to reduce friction between them and wear.
2. COOLING - acting as a coolant to ensure that pistons, connecting rods, and bearings operate at safe operating temperatures.
3. SEAL - providing a seal between the cylinder walls and the piston to achieve nominal compression and prevent the breakthrough of exhaust gases into the engine crankcase.
4. CLEANING - acting as a cleaning agent by holding in suspension combustion by-products such as soot and liquid sludge resulting from the oxidation of oil and fuel. When the oil is drained, they are removed from the engine.
The high temperature at which air-cooled engines operate causes the oil to oxidize, burn the grease left on the hot cylinder surface, which is accompanied by an increase in exhaust smoke and the formation of carbon deposits. As a result of oil oxidation, tarry deposits form in the engine, which are the main cause of coking of piston rings and loose intake valves. This also leads to the formation of sludge, which makes it difficult to properly lubricate the engine.
Therefore, it is advisable to use oils together with detergents and antioxidant additives, which help to cleanse the engine of contaminants and prevent the formation of tar and varnish-like deposits. When using high-quality imported motor oils (classified as “SF, SG Motor Oils”), such as Briggs & Stratton SAE 30, no special additives are required: they already contain the necessary additives.
The correct choice of oil grade according to SAE classification is also important, depending on temperature. environment. The use of 10W30 multigrade oils in engines is not recommended. summer time at ambient temperatures above 5 C, as this can lead to increased oil consumption and engine damage. If such oils are used, the level in the engine must be checked more frequently. On the other hand, the use of summer oils (SAE 30) at air temperatures below 5°C will make engines difficult to start and may cause damage to the cylinder head due to insufficient lubrication.
Gasoline, like oil, is subject to oxidation during storage, which is accompanied by the deposition of gasoline resins in the carburetor. This can lead to engine malfunctions, among which the most common are clogged fuel passages and a loose intake port.
Possible malfunctions, their causes and methods of elimination are given in the table.
1. The engine does not start, the spark plug is dry No fuel supply: a) no fuel in the tank;
a) fill the tank;
b) the fuel valve is closed; b) open the valve
c) the hole in the fuel tank cap is clogged; c) clean the drain hole in the fuel tank cap;
d) clogging of the fuel supply system d) remove the fuel cock, drain the fuel from the tank, test the tank with clean gasoline, remove the connecting hose from the carburetor side, blow the hose and carburetor jets with a pump without disassembling the carburetor
2. Engine does not start, spark plug is wet1. Failure in the ignition system:
a) the presence of soot or oil on the spark plug electrodes; a) clean the spark plug electrodes, rinse with gasoline, dry;
b) the gap between the spark plug electrodes does not meet the technical requirements;
b) adjust the gap by bending the side electrode;
c) damage to the spark plug insulator or high-voltage wire;
c) replace the spark plug or high-voltage wire;
d) short circuit of the STOP button to ground; d) eliminate the short circuit;
e) contact failure in the spark plug socket; e) check the contact in the spark plug socket;
e) the gap between the starter and the magnetic shoe is broken
;f) adjust the gap in accordance with paragraph "Checking and adjusting the ignition system";
g) stator defect
g) replace the stator.
2. Air leakage through the joint seals:
- in the carburetor
- in the carburetor-cylinder,
- head and cylinder
Tighten the bolts of the indicated connections, check the integrity of the gasket between the head and the cylinder block, tighten the spark plug
3. Insufficient closing of the carburetor air damper Check the operation and serviceability of the drive, eliminate jamming
3. Recoil of the engine when starting Violation of the ignition timing due to: a) destruction of the flywheel key; a) check the condition of the flywheel key, replace if necessary:
b) incorrect pairing of the gears of the crankshaft and camshaft during assembly
b) perform shaft coupling in accordance with the requirements
4. The engine is difficult to start, the engine is unstable and does not develop sufficient power
Loss of compression: a) deposits on the working surfaces of the valves and / or seats of the cylinder block; intake valve deformation;
a) check the condition of the working surfaces of the parts in accordance with paragraph "Checking the technical condition of the gas distribution mechanism", replace defective parts;
b) piston ring wear
b) check the degree of wear of the piston rings in accordance with paragraph "Checking the technical condition of the crank mechanism", replace defective parts
5. When the engine is running, black smoke comes out of the muffler. oiling the electrodes of the candle, black carbon deposits on the candle) rich mixture;
b) the carburetor fuel valve is not tight; a) and b) check and adjust the carburetor in accordance with paragraph "Checking and adjusting the fuel supply system";
c) wear of the oil scraper ring of the piston;
d) clogged air filter
p), replace the piston rings;
d) clean or replace the air filter
6. When the engine is running, smoke comes out of the muffler light color, spark plug electrodes dry with white coating Lean mixture. Adjust carburetor.
7. During operation, the engine starts to pick up speed without turning the GAS control lever (the engine runs “out of order”) The fastening of the regulator lever with the regulator rod lever is loose Adjust the engine control drive in accordance with paragraph “Checking and adjusting the fuel supply system”
8. In the process of operation at wide open throttle, the engine starts to reduce speed and stops Engine overheating Stop the engine, do not start it until it is completely cool, check the oil level in the crankcase, cleanliness of the finned surfaces of the block and cylinder head
9. Engine jamming Lack of oil in the engine crankcase, nadir on the lower head of the connecting rod, destruction of the connecting rod and oil sprayer Disassemble the engine, check the details in accordance with paragraph "Checking the technical condition of the crank mechanism"
10. No rotation of the crankshaft during start Destruction of the ratchet or ratchet case
11. There is no return of the start cord Loose tightening of the screws securing the starter housing to the engine Adjust the position of the starter (by swinging by hand), ensuring the return of the cord, tighten the screws securing the starter
Breakage of the starter spring Replace (repair) the starter spring in accordance with paragraph "Repair of the starting device"
The V-belt drive for motoblocks of the MB-1 and MB-2 types performs the function of a transmission and a clutch mechanism and provides:
- transmission of torque from the crankshaft of the engine to the input shaft of the gearbox;
- disconnecting the engine from the gearbox during gear shifting and smoothly connecting them again, excluding sudden changes in the load on the engine;
- smooth starting of the walk-behind tractor and its stop without stopping the engine,
The V-belt drives of the MB-2 motoblocks (Fig. 28) and MB-1 (Fig. 29) are structurally different, which is caused by the use of various types of gearboxes in them
Rice. 28. V-belt transmission of the MB-2 motoblock: 1 - spring; 2 - strap; 3 - ring B20; 4 - washer; 5 — a pulley of an input shaft of a reducer; 6 - key; 7 - bolt M8-18-Ts; 8 - washer A8: P - washer 8T; 10 - nut 8-c; 11 - pulley casing; 12 - shield; 13 - bolt; 14 - washer; 15 - pulley tensioner; 16 - belt AX-1180; 17 - key; 18 - ring B25; 19 — a pulley of an output shaft of the engine; 20 - M8 bolt; 21 - bracket; 22 - sleeve; 23 - bracket; 24 - cotter pin 2×16: 25 - spring
The transmission is engaged by tensioning the belt with the tensioner pulley. As can be seen from fig. 28 and 29, the fundamental difference between them is the use of actually two V-belt gears in the MB-1 walk-behind tractor: one for turning on the forward gear, the other for the reverse gear, while in the MB-2 walk-behind tractor the reverse gear is turned on using a gearbox, and the need in the reverse belt is missing.
Rice. 29. V-belt transmission of the Motoblock MB-1: 1 - pulley of the forward tensioner; 2 - bracket; 3 - washer; 4 — a pulley of the tension device of a backing; 5 - spring; b - key; 7 — a pulley of an output shaft of the engine; 8 - spring; R - locking screw; 10 - bracket; 11 - key; 12 — draft of inclusion of a forward course; 13 - forward drive belt A-1210vn III; 14 - drive reverse belt 0-1400 I; 15 — a pulley of an input shaft of a reducer; 16 — draft of inclusion of a backing; 17 - pulley casing; 18 - shield; 19 - strap; 20 - spring; 21 - spring; 22 - bracket; 23 - bolt
Checking the belt tension with the clutch lever pressed is carried out with the shield 12 (Fig. 28) or 18 (Fig. 29) removed in accordance with Fig. thirty.
The gearbox is designed to transmit torque from the engine (through a V-belt transmission) to the wheels of the walk-behind tractor, change the gear ratio (speed) and change the direction of the walk-behind tractor (only for the MB-2 walk-behind tractor).
The MB-2 motoblock reducer assembly is shown in fig. 32.
Rice. 32. Gearbox motoblock MB-2.
Rice. 32. Gearbox motoblock MB-2: 1 - drain screw; 2 - bearing 180306; 3 - cuff; 4 - semiaxis right; 5 - axle cover. 6 - asterisk (right axle); 7 - spring; 8 - chain (49 links); 9 - screw holes for controlling oil levels; 10 - sleeve; 11 - block shaft sprocket; 12 - half of the body is right; 13 - sleeve; 14 - sprocket block sprocket; 15 - an asterisk of an intermediate shaft; 16 - sleeve; 17 - intermediate shaft; 18 - sleeve; 19 - input shaft; 20 - filler plug: 21 - switching shaft; 22 - switch fork; 23 - bearing 204; 24 - gear wheel; 25 - cuff; 26 - sleeve; 21 - gear wheel; 2S - block star; 29 - sleeve; 30 - gear wheel; 31 - gear wheel; 32 - block shaft; 33 - sleeve; 34 — half of the body left; 35 — a fork of separation of semiaxes; 36 - clutch semiaxes; 37 — semiaxis left; 38 - cuff; 39 - bearing 180306; 40 - gasket; 41 - lever; 42 - spring, 43 - screw; 44 - board. Kinematic diagram of the gearbox.
The detailed arrangement of the MB-2 reducer is shown in fig. 33 and 34.
Rice. 33. MB-2 gearbox housing.
Rice. 33. Gear housing MB-2: 1 - screw; 2 - gasket; 3 - plug; 4 - pin, 5 - board; 6 - washer; 7 - M6 bolt: 8 - gear selector spring; 9 - screw M6x34; 10 - nut M6; 11 - shift lever; 12 - ball handle; 13 - bolt MB; 14 - cover; 15 - gasket; 16 - bolt M6; 17 - plate; 18 - spring washer; 19 - washer A8; 20 - ring ST41-29.5-4; 21 - axle cover; 22 - gasket; 23 — half of the body left; 24 - gasket; 25 - half of the body is right; 26 - washer.
Halves 23 and 25 (Fig. 33) of the gearbox housing are cast from aluminum alloy and are bolted together through a seal 24. They have flanges for fastening bearing caps 14 and 21 with collars.
Rice. 34. Reducer MB-2, internal arrangement.
Rice. 34. Reducer MB-2, internal arrangement: 1 - block-shaft; 2 - sleeve, 3 - block sprocket; 4 - chain (25 links); 5 - connecting link; 6 - washer; 7 - sleeve; 8 - asterisk; 9 - washer; 10 - intermediate shaft; 11 - input shaft, 12 - gear shift shaft; 13, 14 - gear wheels; 15 - shift fork; 16 - bearing 204; 17 - cuff; 18 - spring; 19 - gear lever; 20 - sealing ring; 21 - washer; 22 - axis; 23 - spring; 24 — a fork of separation of semiaxes; 25 - bracket; 26 - screw M6x10; 27 - washer; 28 — a cable of separation of semiaxes; 29 - cuff; 30 - bearing 180306; 31 - thrust axis; 32 — semiaxis left; 33 — cotter pin 2×14; 34 - clutch semiaxes; 35 - sleeve; 36 - connecting link of the chain; 37 - chain (49 links); 38 - axle shaft right.
Note. In gearboxes of motoblocks of early release, instead of bushings pos. 2, 7, 35 bearings were installed: pos. 2 - bearing 300, pos. 7 - bearing 202, pos. 35 - bearing 304 GOST 833-75.
The gearboxes of the motoblocks MB-1 "Neva" (previously produced), MB-1D "Oka", MB-1 "Cascade" (except for its individual modifications) have the same design, shown in fig. 35.
The gearbox housing is steel, stamped, consists of two halves 2 and 22, fastened together through a sealing gasket with 3 bolts. Squares 8 and 23 are welded to each half of the body, forming the supporting frame of the walk-behind tractor.
Rice. 35. Reducer motor-block MB-1 (longitudinal section).
Rice. 35. Reducer motoblock MB-1 (longitudinal section): 1 - shift knob; 2 - half of the body is right; 3 - gasket; 4 - chain (34 links); 5 - cork; 6 - finger; 7 - bolt; 8 - right angle; 9 - second block of stars; 10 - bolt; 11 - finger; 12 - chain (30 links); 13 - third block of stars; 14 - finger; 15 - bearing; 16 - output shaft; 17 - bolt M6; 18 - cover; 19 - cuff; 20 - bearing; 21 - chain (28 links); 22 - half of the body, left; 23 - left square; 24 - chain (36 links); 25 - block of stars the first; 26 - chain (46 links); 27 - switching shaft (input shaft); 28 - cuff; 29 - bearing; 30 - bearing; 31 - asterisk (first gear); 32 - asterisk (second gear).
The internal device of a reducer is shown in fig. 36-40.
Rice. 36. Switching shaft.
Rice. 36. Switching shaft: 1 - switching handle; 2 - sealing ring; 3 - cotter pin; 4 - asterisk; 5 - washer: 6 - ring; 7 - switching shaft; 8 - switch cracker; 9 - sleeve; 10 - retainer spring; 11 - locking screw
Rice. 37. The first block of stars.
Rice. 37. Block of stars first: 1 - block of stars first; 2 - washer; 3 - bearing 942/15: 4 - sleeve; 5 - finger
Rice. 38. The second block of stars.
Rice. 38. Second block of stars: 1 - second block of stars; 2 - sleeve; 3 - bearing 941/20; 4 - finger; 5 - washer
Rice. 39. Third block of stars.
Rice. 39. Third block of stars: 1 - third block of stars; 2 - sleeve; 3 - bearing 941/20; 4 - finger; 5 - washer
Rice. 40. Output shaft.
Rice. 40. Output shaft: 1 - washer; 2 - output shaft; 3 - bushing
The torque from the input shaft 21 (Fig. 35) to the output shaft 16 of the gearbox is transmitted either from the left 31 or from the right 32 sprocket of the input shaft. This or that sprocket is engaged with the input shaft with the help of a cracker 8 (Fig. 36), moved along the axis of the shaft by the switch handle 1. With the recessed handle 1, the sprocket 31 is engaged, the first (lower) gear is engaged. When the handle / is extended to the end, the second (highest) gear is engaged.
The middle position of the shift knob 1 is neutral.
Reducers of motoblocks MB-1R "Neva". MB-1 "Cascade" models 6841-01, 6841-03, 6841-05 and 69412.69412-07 differ in the design of the output shaft installation. In these gearboxes, the output shaft is mounted in place of needle bearings on ball bearings. In accordance with this, the type of cuffs and the design of the covers covering them have been replaced.
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As a rule, with constant monitoring of the oil level in the gearbox and without sudden (impact) changes in the load on the walk-behind tractor, the gearbox serves for a long time and reliably. Possible malfunctions during its operation are given in the table.
Nature of the fault Possible reason Elimination method
1 Oil leakage on the output shaft Wear of the working edge of the cuff on the axle cover Remove the cover, replace the cuff
2. The mechanism for disengaging the semi-axes does not work), the adjustment of the drive is broken, change the tension of the cable for controlling the disengagement of the semi-axes.
b) failure of one of the elements of the drive for disengaging the semiaxes inside the gearbox
b) disassemble the gearbox, replace defective parts
3. No latching or spontaneous transmission shutdown
a) violation of the adjustment in the switching mechanism
A) loosen the screws securing the shift mechanism board, engage 1st gear, tighten the screws securing the board
b) breakage of the spring or wear of the latches of the switching mechanism board
b) replace defective parts, perform adjustments according to paragraph "a"
c) shift fork cheek wear
c) disassemble the gearbox, replace the shift fork
4. There is no kinematic connection inside the gearbox Breakage of welding of the gear with the block-shaft Dismantle the gearbox, replace the block-shaft
5. Jamming gearbox Open circuit. Dismantle the gearbox, replace the chain
To disassemble the gearbox, remove it from the walk-behind tractor, for which you need:
- remove the engine, steering column, traction, tension pulley with bracket and spring, pulley from the drive shaft of the gearbox;
- remove the wings, pin, steering rack from the carrier frame, unscrew the coupling bolts of the squares and remove them, disconnect the wheels. Before disassembly, clean the gearbox from dirt, drain the oil.
Remove the lever 41 (Fig. 32) gear change, spring 42 and board 44.
Turn off bolts of fastening of covers 14 and 21 (fig. 33) and take out them together with cuffs.
Unscrew the nuts of the coupling bolts of the halves of the gearbox housing, put the gearbox on the left half of the housing, using a thin screwdriver or a knife, carefully so as not to damage the gasket, unclip the halves of the gearbox housing, remove the right half.
Raise the intermediate shaft 10 (Fig. 34), remove the sprocket 8 from it and disengage it from the chain.
Remove the fork 15 from the shift shaft 12 together with the gears 15 and 14, the sprocket 3 together with the chain.
Remove block-shaft / together with chain 37 and right axle shaft 38.
The MB-1 walk-behind tractor gearbox is the basis on which other units and assemblies of the walk-behind tractor are mounted. Therefore, to repair the gearbox with disassembly, it is necessary to disassemble the walk-behind tractor, for which it is necessary to dismantle the engine, steering column, pan, brackets with forward and reverse belt pulleys, gearbox pulley, wheels.
Before disassembling the gearbox, clean it of dirt, drain the oil.
Remove the rotating head from the shift knob by knocking out the pin holding it with a thin drift.
Unscrew the locking screw 11 (Fig. 36) and remove the sleeve 9 and the spring 10 of the latch from the shift shaft 7.
Unscrew the bolts 17 (Fig. 35) securing the housing halves, then the tie bolts 7 (2 pcs.) and 10.
Place the gearbox on the left half of the housing, using a thin screwdriver or a knife, carefully so as not to damage the gasket, separate the halves of the gearbox housing and remove the right half. Leave the shims of the tie bolts on the block sprockets.
To disassemble the gearshift mechanism, remove the retaining ring b from the shift shaft 7 (Fig. 36), ensuring free running of the sprockets 31.32 (Fig. 35). Remove the cotter pin 3 (Fig. 36) from the threaded part of the handle / switch, unscrew it (counterclockwise) from the cracker 8 and remove the handle and the cracker from the shaft.
The supporting frame of the MB-2 walk-behind tractor is formed by two squares 5 and 21 (Fig. 41). to which the gearbox, engine, steering and devices for connecting trailed and mounted implements and units are attached
Rice. 41. Carrier frame of the MB-2 walk-behind tractor.
Rice. 41. Carrier frame of the MB-2 walk-behind tractor: 1 - right wing; 2 - M6 bolt, 3 - M8 bolt; 4 - bolt M10; 5 - right angle, 6 - rack; 7 - kingpin; 8 - retainer; 9 - bracket; 10 - washer 10T; 11 - nut 10; 12 - limiter; 13 - left wing; 14 - washer A6; 15 - washer 6; 16 - nut 6; 17 - washer A10; 18 - nut 8; 19 - washer 8T; 20 - washer A8; 21 - left square; 22 - pin; 23 - M10 bolt.
The steering device of the MB-2 walk-behind tractor is shown in fig. 42. The steering column 1 is installed on the rack 6 (Fig. 41) of the carrier frame.
Rice. 42. Steering motoblock MB-2.
Rice. 42. Steering of the MB-2 walk-behind tractor: 1 - steering column; 2 - washer A12; 3 - bolt; 4 - cork; 5 - collar; 6 - wing nut; 7 — gas cable; 8 - washer; 9 - spring; 10 - chain; 11 - earring; 12 - body; 13 - axis; 14 - VMB screw; 15 - control lever for uncoupling the axle shafts; 16 — gas lever; 17 - handle; 18 - steering wheel; 19 - washer A8; 20 - cotter pin 2×16; 21 - washer A6; 22 - washer 6; 23 - nut 6; 24 - steering wheel; 25 - clutch control lever; 26 - guide; 27 - hairpin; 28 - thrust; 29 - collar.
The supporting frame of the MB-1 walk-behind tractor, unlike the MB-2 walk-behind tractor. formed by a pallet / (Fig. 43) together with angles 8 and 21 (Fig. 35), welded to the halves of the MB-1 gearbox housing, and bracket 7 fixed to these angles with bolts (Fig. 43).
Rice. 43. Elements of the supporting frame of the MB-1 walk-behind tractor.
Rice. 43. Elements of the supporting frame of the MB-1 walk-behind tractor: 1 - pallet; 2 - arc; 3 - bolt M8x30; 4 - bolt M8x18; 5 - washer; 6 - nut; 7 - bracket; 8 - bracket; 9 - kingpin; 10 - latch; 11 - limiter; 12 - bolt M10x70; 13 - pin; 14 - washer; 15 - nut.
The design of the steering control of the MB-1 walk-behind tractors is shown in fig. 44.
This design allows you to change the position of the steering only in the vertical plane, i.e. by the height of the handles.
Together with the walk-behind tractor, you have purchased a set of cutter-cultivators designed for loosening the soil. This operation is usually carried out in the spring when preparing the soil for sowing.
Specifications
Capture width (with 8 cutters), mm 1200
Soil processing depth, mmUp to 250
Productivity, ha/h 0.12
The number of mounted milling cutters must be at least four (to ensure the stability of the walk-behind tractor) and not more than eight (to prevent overloading of the gearbox parts). The cutters are located symmetrically with respect to the longitudinal axis of the motoblock, and, therefore, their number must be even (Fig. 45).
Eight cutters are used when working on light soils, on clay soils - four. Adjust the depth of processing by deepening the limiter 3 (Fig. 1), fixed with a latch in the bracket 4.
Rice. 45. Cutter-cultivator: 1 - cultivator, 2 - roller, 3 - extension.
For your site, depending on the quality and composition of the soil, empirically select the most successful ratio of the number of installed cutters and the depth of processing (the installation depth of the limiter) so that the walk-behind tractor moves evenly at a speed of about 1 km / h (15 m / min). At the same time, the second gear must be engaged on the walk-behind tractor and the nominal engine speed must be set.
The plow (Fig. 46) is used for plowing the land with turning over the layer, burying organic and mineral fertilizers.
As a rule, these types of work are carried out in the fall when preparing the land for planting next year.
Fig.46 Plow with regulator
Specifications
Capture width, mm Up to 180
Depth of processing, mm Up to 200
Operating speed, km/h Up to 3.6
Hourly productivity when plowing the soil at a working speed of 3 km/h, ha/h Not less than 0.05
Weight, kg 16
After attaching the plow to the walk-behind tractor:
Adjust its position so that the longitudinal axis of the plow regulator coincides with the longitudinal axis of the walk-behind tractor.
Make sure that the plow beam is always in a vertical position.
Use a load weighing up to 20 kg, putting it on the front pin of the walk-behind tractor.
When working with a plow, use the axle shaft extensions included in the walk-behind tractor kit and metal wheels with weights.
Okuchnik (Fig. 47) mounted two-row, designed for cutting furrows and inter-row processing of potatoes and other tilled crops.
The okuchnik is hung to the walk-behind tractor with the help of a hitch-regulator.
Rice. 47. Okuchnik with a regulator.
Specifications
Maximum base between hillers (row spacing), mm 700
Hilling depth, mm 80… 150
Dumps solution, mm:
Operating speed, km/h No more than 3.6
Hourly productivity when hilling plantings with a row spacing at an operating speed of 3 km/h, ha/h 0.15
Weight, kg 18
Root crop digger (Fig. 48) mounted, designed for mechanized digging of potato tubers and other root crops from the soil.
Specifications
Blade adjustment range, mm 270…400
Cutting edge width, mm 105
Hourly productivity with a working grip of 400 mm and a working speed of 3 km/h, ha/h 0.1
Weight, kg 6.4
Rice. 48. Root digger
When working with a digger:
Use a weight of 20 kg, hanging it on the front pin of the walk-behind tractor to balance the digger.
Before starting work, cut and remove the tops and grass from the site
When working with a digger, use metal wheels (lugs) complete with weights (up to 20 kg for each wheel).
In order not to damage the tubers with wheels, dig through the row.
Metal wheels with grunt hooks are designed to increase the traction of the walk-behind tractor due to greater adhesion to the soil. Two types of wheels are used with walk-behind tractors. Wide wheels (Fig. 49) are used to work with a plow, hillers, diggers and as transport vehicles in off-road conditions. It is recommended to use such wheels complete with a load of up to 20 kg per wheel.
Wheels for hilling are used to increase the clearance of the walk-behind tractor, which allows for the second and third hilling without damaging plants at their height up to 200 ... 250 mm.
Rice. 49. Metal wheels
Trolleys produced for walk-behind tractors (Fig. 51) are designed to transport agricultural products, implements, fertilizers, building materials weighing from 200 to 500 kg. As a rule, all bogies have a tipping body and are manufactured in various modifications, differing in the types and sizes of wheels, body size, brake system.
Rice. 51. Trolley for walk-behind tractor Specifications
Specifications
Load capacity, kg200250-500500
Body dimensions, mm:
length113015101600
width94011301200
depth250275330
Body capacity, m’0.250.470.6
Overturning angle, deg30…60
Track, mm100014001400
Ground clearance, mm280315275
All trolleys are equipped with a mechanical brake that requires checking before each ride and periodic maintenance to ensure safe operation carts.
The water pump is intended for pumping water from open reservoirs, tanks, wells, watering areas.
The centrifugal pump of the NTsV-1 type is most widely used with motoblocks of the MB type (Fig. 52).
Rice. 52. Pump NTsV-1.
Specifications
Water suction height, m6
Water lifting height, m35
Productivity, m3/h8
Weight, kg6
The pump is hung on the front pin of the walk-behind tractor. The pump is driven by a belt from the engine output shaft pulley. The pump has a funnel at the top for filling the system with water before turning it on.
The mower assembled with a walk-behind tractor is designed for mowing grass in small and hard-to-reach areas (on the edges and clearings of forests, in places overgrown with bushes, on roadsides, fields, ditches, on slopes, lawns and household plots), inconvenient for other mechanical mowers .
Two types of mowers are produced: knife-type (Fig. 53) and rotary (Fig. 54).
Rice. 53. Knife mower
Rice. 54. Rotary mower
Specifications
Rice. 53Fig. 54
Type Knife Rotary
ModelKN-1,1KRN-1
Capture width, m1.10.8
Productivity, ha/h0.350.35
Operating speed, km/h2.5…52.5…4.5
Cutting height, mm40…7070
Weight, kg4035
V-belt drive from a pulley on the motor output shaft
A knife mower cuts grass lower than a rotary mower, but it requires a flat, clean area with sparse tall grass. The rotary mower, due to the use of retractable blades, is more unpretentious to the terrain and can be used both for mowing lawns and for mowing coarse stem grass and grass with increased vegetation yield.
The rake (Fig. 55) coupled with a walk-behind tractor is designed for raking dried and freshly cut grass into hay rolls.
Rice. 55. Trailer rake GP-2
Specifications
Capture width, m2
Working speed, km/h Up to 12
Wheel track, m1.2
Rake lifting Manual
Weight, kg125
Feed crusher (Fig. 56) is designed for grinding grain and root crops. It is used for the preparation of feed when keeping pets in private households.
Figure 56. Feed mill
Specifications
Productivity, kg/h
wheat300
Thickness of shavings for crushing root crops, mm2…4
Grinding module, mm, no more than 1.8
Weight, kg38
Woodworking attachment:
Designed for the processing of lumber during the construction and repair of rural and country houses, utility rooms in places where there is no electricity supply. It has a jointer and a circular saw for longitudinal and transverse cutting of wood (Fig. 57).
Rice. 57. Woodworking attachment PD-401
Specifications
Speed, rpm3000
Circular saw diameter, mm400
Thickness of the cut material, mm130
Planing width, mm200
Weight, kg60
Mixer (Fig. 58) is designed for the preparation of mortar or concrete. The drive is from a walk-behind tractor through a V-belt from the output shaft of the gearbox.
Rice. 58. Mixer
Specifications
Capacity, l35
Speed, rpm25
mixing time, min2
Dimensions1000x800x700
A snow blower (Fig. 59) of the auger type is designed to remove snow from backyards and walkways.
Rice. 59. Snowblower Specifications
Specifications
Nominal capture width, mm700
Depth of processing, mm250
Ejection of snow mass to the side, m8
Productivity with freshly fallen snow cover up to 20 cm, m2/h2500
Weight, kg55
Overall dimensions, mm790x730x780
while I was writing, another thought arose, now voltage stabilizers are widely used when I tested one sample that works from 110 to 280 volts and 230v at the output ....
you can even immediately from the asynchronous, all that it develops through the stabilizer is fed into the outlet, from the excess from the same outlet, charge the battery and through the inverter again into the outlet, I understand this is already a serious investment, but the power is also serious ... But the question is why they don’t So? Even so, they grind the rotor and glue the magnets ...
Igor (Cece) I would immediately start straightening and install a switching power supply, they operate in the range from 85 to 250 volts, but have you already charged the battery from the impulse?
Boris (Juwanna) All the same, an asynchronous motor and a generator are arranged a little differently. Just take the engine and spin it, it will give very little electricity. Buying a generator is expensive. They machine the rotor and glue the magnets precisely in order to get a generator from the engine. Well, the speed - for windmills they are in a very wide range, unlike a gas generator, for example. Therefore, there are slightly different requirements. And it won’t work out immediately to apply 230 volts to the outlet - there, depending on the load and wind strength, it will walk from 0 to how lucky, maybe over 1000 at certain conditions. Therefore, it is necessary to use special electronics, which does not allow the windmill to spin up strongly at a light load (when all consumers are turned off and the batteries are charged) and stabilizes the voltage on consumers. AND axial generators make it easier and cheaper - you can do without a turner at all and you need to buy less magnets, though if there are no special power requirements.
Igor (Cece) Besides voltage, frequency is also important.
Andrey (Frederik) "And the second is a re-sharpened rotor and magnets glued to it, I have seen articles, but this is not as widely used as axial generators are acceptable, what's the matter?"
Just the same, this is a fairly well-known and often used approach that gives good and predictable results. A significant advantage over axial shafts is a ready-made factory design and body.
Yura (Berdine) In order for an asynchronous to become a generator, you just need to collect capacitors! It's all in the link at the beginning! It's a good idea to straighten and apply to the pulse source and then to the battery. It's easier than ever, in my opinion!
Andrey (Frederik) "For an asynchronous to become a generator, you just need to dial the capacitors!"
The only question is at what speed it will give something ... and whether such speed is suitable for a windmill :) If everything were so simple, then no one would regrind the rotors and glue neodymium.
Yura (Berdine) judging by the articles that I read about asynchronous, then at different speeds you need a different capacitance of the capacitor, the larger the capacitance, the more the generator will spend on itself. Suppose if industrial generators were equipped complex systems, which, depending on the speed, changed the capacitance so that the voltage was suitable. (I even found a patent). It seems that no one has such experience ... it's interesting to try, I'll get out of town, there is a couple of asynchronous devices on the stash. what ranges does the power supply from the computer work in? to try with and without a load, and with an impulse load and some kind of ballast!
Andrey (Frederik) Read this thread:
http://vkontakte.ru/topic-16776359_23414748
especially Nikolay's answers (on the second page).
Yura (Berdine) Someone is disturbed by my last message if it is deleted for the second time in a row
Dmitry (Grazia) Read here http://snim.flybb.ru/topic8.html
Andrey (Frederik) "Someone can't see my last message if it is deleted for the second time in a row"
I did not delete, and other members do not have moderator rights. It's probably some kind of glitch. Maybe the contact's spam filter worked? Do I remember correctly that there were several references to something? I think I saw this message, but I vaguely remember.
Yura (Berdine) Looks like a spam filter or someone marked it as spam... There was a link to an article in the magazine DO IT YOURSELF how to make a 220 V generator set from a walk-behind tractor and an asynchronous
Sergey (Carolyn) I followed the link anti-spam blocked movement.
Yura (Berdine) Today I tried to spin an asynchronous circuit with a capacitor. At low speeds, the voltage is very small, until the nominal speed rises above 10 - 20 volts ... then there is a sharp jump to a little more than 200 volts and the engine noticeably rests. I connected the light bulb, it lights up in full heat, and it goes out, and it lights up again .. it’s not enough of my silets to turn the belt drive with such power. transmission 1k 10, i.e. at 1.5 rpm, the nominal speed is reached.
In general, a very low-speed induction motor has the right to become a generator that converts wind energy into electricity, while the rule must be strictly observed. TURNS MUST NOT BE LESS THAN RATED ... if you increase the load power above the allowable one, the capacitor is discharged, the magnetic field disappears and electricity is not generated, without any protections and other smart lotions, if you remove the load or reduce it below the nominal value, everything will work again on its own ... such a cool car .. this one asynchronous motor! So if anyone wants to make a gas generator for himself, then go ahead! simpler design and better output characteristics you will not find!
Dmitry (Grazia) Now fewer consumers require AC current. Is that a deep pump, machine .. Everything. And for deep pump("Baby", "Brook", etc.) you can get by with a small inverter. Oh yes, the fridge. Hand tool, modern washing machine, computer power supplies, chargers, microwave, inverter input (you need to cut off the bypass if it's a UPS) - all this works on direct current. Only for UKD (universal commutator motor of mixers, drills, etc.) and heaters (here it is not so critical) you need 220-240 V constant, and for devices with a bridge at the input (computer, economical light bulb) you need 310 V. If you use diode lighting and laptops (100-240V AC = 140-340V DC) can take 230V DC and save on the Big Inverter. After all, it is both a one-time investment and operating (its efficiency) costs. That is, the installation is 17 batteries 13.8 V 60 Ah (for example, cars or traction from electric cars). 13.8 kWh of buffer energy (dofiga). Pumping by the sun and/or wind directly or by a pulse converter with overcharge control.
Pluses - cheap, angry, pulls at the same time an iron, a heater, a microwave oven and an electric kettle (the inverter is in shock). At the same time, it is economical in terms of efficiency and cost. Simplicity of design, ease of troubleshooting. Short circuit protection by one circuit breaker 16A (or several-in several circuits). Electrical safety ( D.C. less dangerous). No ripple in lighting.
Cons - some consumers will require an inverter or refinement. It is impossible to protect the RCD network. The efficiency of the deep pump will decrease when using a simple inverter. The cost of maintaining or replacing such a chic battery.
Alexander (Wandusia) Hello everyone! HELL is not excited under load, neither active nor inductive .... but no one tried to start it with a connected electrode boiler? I didn't find anything on the net about this. Turned HELL 200 rpm (engine 4.5 kW 1400 rpm) capacity 3 pcs. 100 mf each) untwisted without load, gave out 80 volts, picked up 3 irons of 1 kw, for example. dropped to 60 volts but there is a generation! the irons got hot ... the voltage dropped most likely because the speed dropped, he turned the 400 watt EMotor ... with a load even at 2800 rpm - zero .. I tried to connect 1 nak lamp. 25 watts was also not excited ... with a connected transformer, it’s also zero ... one of these days I’ll make the electrodes and check it myself. Putting a starter is unreliable. it’s reluctant to bother with electronics ... otherwise it will be great to help with heating water ...
Sergey (Carolyn) Yura, if you increase the load power above the allowable one, the capacitor is discharged, the magnetic field disappears and electricity is not generated, without any protection and other smart lotions,
I completely agree in technology this phenomenon is called "rollover" of an asynchronous generator
Sergey (Carolyn) Alexander, I have a question: according to what scheme were the capacitors connected?
They can be connected in several ways:
1. star (motor)-star (capacitors)
2. triangle (d) - triangle (k)
3. star (d) - triangle (k)
or others.
You can also pick up capacitors in the same way as for the operation of the engine in single-phase mode
I've tried it this way and it works great...
Tags: How to make a light on a walk-behind tractor without a generator
DC generator for head light on a Chinese walk-behind tractor
Help with LIGHT(Minsk) | Topic Author: Rafil
The light works like that, it shines, both far and near, but it is almost invisible at night, but if you rev very hard (when you drive, or just on the spot), then the light lights up strongly, explain what's the matter? why does the light work so well only when you're on a lot of gas?
Alexey (Nivedita) Fuck the switch! change
Rafil (Laelius) And if I change the light, will it shine well? like Jupiter?
Alexey (Nivedita) as it burns in Minsk, it will continue to burn. In Minsk, it goes directly from the generator. Because of this, the more revolutions, the stronger the generator rotates, respectively, the brighter the light
Alexey (Nivedita) read your problem again. You're all right in my opinion! That's the way it should be. Small turns - the light shines weaker, large - stronger. Alternating current. And if at all you have a dim light at low levels that you can’t fucking see, then change it.
Rafil (Laelius) So it's clear if it's completely dark outside, at high speeds, but I'll try to change everything exactly, thanks :)))
Alexander (Aasera)
Kolya (Maxwell) Look at the generator!!!
Kolya (Maxwell) boys help me in Minsk, the light works current when at full throttle until you can’t fucking see
Azamat (Mandie) Look at the generator! I have such crap: I stopped pulling ... what to do?
Anatoly (Michael) Look at the cylinder, rings. If the compression is normal, then look at the clutch discs. First of all, I changed the spark plug!
Azamat (Mandie) Yes, the compression is very good! in short, I changed the seals, THE PISTON IS NEW, I.E. AND RINGS, as soon as everything changed, it stopped pulling (((thanks in advance
Anatoly (Michael) What seals did you change?
Anatoly (Michael) And try to twist the air (mixture). By the way, did you fill the cylinder with oil after we changed the piston from the ring?
Zamir (Zomer) - did a run-in))
Dmitry (Anemone) in my Minsk when the speed is high the light flashes what to do so that it does not flash
Evgeny (Bassett) or for me, for example, the light blinked a little at speed. There is a taillight on the taillight. The size and stop signal, I changed the wires, that is, I got the size on top and the stop signal on the bottom. You can try to change the bulbs in places.
Dmitry (Anemone) okay, I'll try.......
Dmitry (Anemone) Please help me. I bought a kart with an engine from Minsk, the gears change badly. Tell me how to set them up?
Ivan (Bhagavan) I bought a new generator in Minsk, but neither the light nor the size nor the stop is working and the signal is silent, what could be the reason?
Aug 13, 2012 - electric current for light without battery? .... For the system to work without a battery, you need a "Generator alternating current with excitement .... In principle, we have already done it ourselves, with grief in half ..... we will finish it, lay it out!
Generator to walk-behind tractor part 1 - YouTube
Generator for walk-behind tractor part 1 ... Direct current generator for head light for Chinese walk-behind tractor - Duration: 3:17. ... How to install a generator on ...
Despite the rich equipment of modern walk-behind tractors, not every one of them is equipped with such a useful option as lighting devices. Fortunately, solving this problem is quite simple if you put the headlight on the walk-behind tractor with your own hands. Moreover, this does not require special skills and extensive experience.
Headlight for walk-behind tractor - self-production
Many owners of walk-behind tractors use headlights from domestic and imported cars to install on their units. This method is the simplest, but it should be remembered that the old headlight on the walk-behind tractor will not emit bright enough light and will last no more than a few months.
It is much better to make lighting for an agricultural machine with your own hands. This does not require you to buy expensive materials and equipment. You will need the same old headlight, the stuffing of which you will later replace with new parts.
The order of work is as follows:
- Remove the existing glass surface and other elements from the old headlight that are attached to the base with plastic clips;
- Next, make a plaster cast based on the headlight frame. For this purpose, for the time being liquid material pour inside the base of the headlight around its entire perimeter. After the final drying of the gypsum mass, it must be carefully removed;
- Apply 3 layers of fiberglass to the impression. Between each of the tiers there should be a layer epoxy resin. Place the blank in vacuum conditions and wait at least a day - during this time the cast will completely harden. After that, align the workpiece so that even the slightest chips do not remain on it;
- Start making glass for homemade headlights. To do this, preheat the oven to 190 ° C, make a stand of 8 rails fastened together and fix a sheet of fiberglass in it. Before putting the mold in the oven, do not forget to remove the protective film from the material, otherwise it will be covered with dust particles;
- As soon as the material sags in the stand, take it out of the oven and apply it to the workpiece made earlier. The product must be placed and kept under full vacuum until it hardens.
After hardening, the manufactured headlight will need to be carefully sanded, degreased and dried. Then 1-2 halogen lamps are placed inside it or LED Strip Light. The installation of the headlight on the walk-behind tractor is carried out after a thorough check lighting device. To put the headlight on the walk-behind tractor, be sure to use a reliable frame and at least 4 fasteners.
Connecting the headlight to the motoblock generator
Installing a light on a walk-behind tractor with your own hands is quite simple if you use a regular electric generator of an agricultural machine for this. Especially for this, many manufacturers of equipment produce walk-behind tractors with generators, the power reserve of which is slightly increased especially for lighting installation. Thus, the power of the node is quite sufficient for uninterrupted power supply of lighting devices and sound signal.
To install the headlights on the walk-behind tractor, and connect them to the generator, you need to proceed in this order:
- Connect the generator with a wire to the switch, which must be fixed near the steering wheel or in another place convenient for the operator;
- Separate the wiring from the switch and connect it to the headlight, then check the operation of the lighting device;
- Then disconnect the wires and place them in a tight corrugation that protects the wiring from moisture and mechanical damage.
If the alternator has sufficient power reserve, the headlight will shine uninterruptedly and brightly. If the power of the unit is insufficient, then the headlight will flash every time the engine goes into low speed operation. In this case, it is best to change the regular motoblock generator to a unit from MTZ tractors. It should be remembered that for the installation of a new generator in the construction of a walk-behind tractor, it will be necessary to weld additional support frames, and a lighting coil must be used to connect the node.
After connecting, regularly check the integrity of the wiring contacts, otherwise, if moisture gets on them, short circuit in the electrical network of the walk-behind tractor.
How to make light on a walk-behind tractor without a generator?
There is another way that allows you to connect the light on a walk-behind tractor without a generator. It will need a 12-volt battery and LED strip. It is not necessary to buy a new battery - an old gel cell from an electric scooter is quite suitable for work.
In addition to materials, you will need to decide in advance on the place of installation of the battery. Since it has small dimensions, it is best to place it between the motor and the gearbox of the walk-behind tractor. The next work plan is as follows:
- From a steel corner, make a mount that will match the size of the battery used;
- Position and fix the mount on the frame of the unit;
- Install inside the mount battery, fix it with a steel plate and two bolts;
- From the battery to the switch and headlight, lay the wiring. Fix the connection points with soldering and insulate with tape. The video will help you to get acquainted with the connection of the headlight on a walk-behind tractor without a generator in more detail.
The light of a battery-powered headlight is quite intense and bright. However, this method has one significant disadvantage - the battery capacity will last no more than a few hours of continuous operation, after which the power source will need to be charged.