When bad weather is raging outside the windows or on a long winter evening, or perhaps just in moments of solitude, you want to settle down in a soft cozy armchair with your favorite book, drink a cup of sweet tea with a pleasant companion or have a romantic date with your lover. At such moments, a familiar and homely element of the interior such as a floor lamp, chandelier or lamp, but always with a beautiful lampshade, will come in very handy.

Usually, floor options placed near chairs, beds or soft sofa, and a lamp with a beautiful lampshade can be located above dining table or in the bedroom.

It’s quite easy to make a lampshade with your own hands, and you can be proud of its exclusivity, originality and style. Interiors with lampshades fill the atmosphere of the room with sensuality and romance, creating comfort and attractiveness.

The lampshade is easy to make from any available materials; textiles, paper and decorative items (beads, rhinestones, ribbons, etc.) are quite suitable for this.

You can improve or modernize an old lampshade using the power of your imagination and diligence. At the same time, the interior design will be filled with individualism and become truly homely. Various options We recommend that you look at the use of the lampshade in our photos.

Preparing the frame and base

First you need to decide for which lamps you need to make or update the lampshade. If it is for an old one, then the frame should be removed and freed from unnecessary parts; if it is missing, then you should buy a ready-made one at a construction supermarket.

It’s easy to make it yourself if you have pliers and wire on hand. The frame configuration may be different. It is most convenient to make a lampshade for the base in the shape of a cylinder or cone.

Choosing fabric for the lampshade

For the future product, you can use fabrics of different textures: light, hard or dense. Even wool is suitable, the main thing is the harmony of the combination with the entire interior design as a whole. For example, classic bedroom will do desktop version lampshade for a lamp, i.e. small size and white color corresponding to the style.

It is better to hide a frame made of ordinary wire behind an opaque material. For example, cotton, taffeta or dark silk.

An important point is the choice of fabric color, as it can be warm (yellow, orange, red, etc.) or cold (blue, green, etc.).

Auxiliary materials

Fabric lampshades can be created in a variety of ways. For example, a new lampshade that is fixed to the old one does not require any preparation for the main process. A self-made frame requires coating with paint and wrapping with cotton tape.

Iron, pencil, ruler, fabric, pins, threads to match the fabric, strong paper, universal glue - this is what you may need when working.

How to make a lampshade with your own hands using fabric

To make a lampshade with your own hands, they mainly use: linen, silk, denim and other fabrics.

During the production process, a whole piece or material cut into strips will be useful. Their width may vary. The prepared frame can be easily covered with a single-color fabric with a pattern.

However, it is necessary to immediately decide on the future location of the lampshade, because it must correspond to its surroundings, and not stand out as a black sheep.

Design professionals recommend using the frame of an old one to create a new lampshade model for a floor lamp. Although it is not at all difficult to build it with your own hands from stiff wire. To avoid fabric fires, you should use energy-saving light bulbs.

To create a masterpiece hanging lampshade on your own you need:

• Prepare the frame of the future product (use the design of an old lamp or make it yourself).
• Choose a suitable fabric, cut into even strips about 5 cm wide, in the amount of 25 pieces.
• Check the evenness of the edges of the strips.
• It is good to iron them using an iron.
• Wrap the edge of the ribbon around the top of the ring and secure (sew on).
• Take the ribbon down and wrap its edge around the ring at the bottom, then go back and wrap the top one.
• Wrap the rings until the ribbon runs out, then secure its edge.
• Take the next strip and continue wrapping.
• When the frame is completely covered with tapes, you need to prepare the belts for the edges.
• Take two small pieces of fabric of a different color and cut out 2 stripes certain size, iron them, bending them 2.5 cm inward along the edge of the tape.
• Fold the strip in half.
• Place double-sided tape on the frame rings and a fabric strip on top of it, making light cuts along the edge so that it lies as evenly as possible.
• Fold the other edge inside the base and also stick the tape.
• Decorate the upper and lower tiers of the frame with belts.

For edging, you can use crocheted ribbons or familiar ruffles.

The use of textile and plastic materials for lampshades

This manufacturing option is made from textile and plastic material to update a worn-out product or improve a new one:

• measure the diameters of the rings at the top and bottom, the height of the frame base, adding 2 cm to each edge for seams,
• take a thin plastic plate, rectangular or trapezoidal shape, cut off the excess to the right size, and use it as a basis for a fabric lampshade,
• cut the fabric according to the required parameters and fix it to the table surface with double-sided tape,
• glue the fabric to the plastic,
• use the resulting element to bend around the base and secure the edges with clamps,
• mark the location of the seams on the fabric,
• remove the paper clips and fasten along the basting with glue, press and leave to dry,
• glue the lampshade from the inside,
• glue the place where the rings join the frame,
• if the product is dry, remove the clamps,
• fasten paper tapes at the top and bottom so that one edge is below the location of the ring rim,
• fold the free edge inward and fix it with glue,
• take a fabric strip of a different color with a length equal to the height of the frame and a width of 5 cm, bend it in two, fold the edges and iron it,
• coat the inside of the tape with glue and fix it,
• use glue to fix the strip over the seam of the lampshade,
• prepare paper ribbons 5 cm wide,
• glue to the top and bottom edges of the lampshade, secure with clips,
• Glue a fabric strip on top of the paper.

The process of making this version of the lampshade with your own hands is completed.

Other manufacturing options

In addition to the above options, the following are used for manufacturing: paper, threads, various tubes, twine, yarn, etc.

DIY lampshade photo

Do-it-yourself original lamps and lampshades. Ideas, master classes

DIY lamps and lampshades. Ideas, master classes

Hi all!

Creating or decorating lamps and lampshades is not only an incredibly interesting activity, but also quite useful: it allows you not only to create a unique item, in full accordance with the interior of your home, but also to save a lot of money. It is enough to buy the simplest lamp for little money and decorate it to your liking. And there are a huge number of options for what and how to do, in the most different techniques, using a wide variety of materials.

I have selected ideas for creating and decorating lamps for you and me, I hope you can choose the right option for yourself :) Enjoy watching!

The lampshade is decorated using decoupage technique, the base of the lamp is made of books

The decor of the metal frame of the lampshade with feathers is very stylish :)

Quite often fabric or paper flowers are used to decorate lampshades; the result is very romantic :)

Flowers made of fabric with candle processing

Calico bundles are used as flowers here.

Twisted fabric flowers

Ready-made flowers are used here

The flower is made of a cotton strip of fabric, strung on one side and gathered into a bud

Spiral roses from newspapers

The bottom of the lampshade is decorated with spiral paper roses

Ikea lampshade decor with paper flowers

Lampshades made of lace and knitted napkins look very beautiful

The shape is given with glue

The balloon is inflated and lace napkins are applied to it using glue. After drying, the ball is pierced, deflated and removed.

Very nice option: a birdcage is used as the base of the lamp, the lampshade is decorated using decoupage technique with obsolescence.

Even an umbrella can be used for a chandelier :)

Even scraps of fabric scraps can be used: wrapped and tied in a knot. This option fits perfectly into the design country house or children's room.

Buttons

To make lamps, various glass containers - jars, bottles - are very often and successfully used. Below I have given a master class on making such a lamp.

A bottle as a lamp base - a similar master class is also given below

It’s a little more complicated here - at the bottom of the back side of the bottle there is a hole drilled through which the cord is inserted.

The lamp is made of figured metal sheet

The origami technique has been successfully used to create lampshades

Fabric strips glued to the base of the lampshade

Lampshade made from various retro leaves

Lampshade from a basket - why not? :)

The second life of a metal colander

Unnecessary forks and spoons have created a very interesting option chandeliers:)

A very nice solution: stretched onto a frame metal grid and beat the poultry house. I think for a children's room.

And here's more on the bird theme :)

Painting a lampshade with acrylic paints

Fine veneer lampshade

The base of the lamp is covered with sea shells

Knitted lampshades - they look very cozy :)

Decorate lampshades with memorable photos and slides

The flowers on this lamp are the bottoms of plastic bottles :)

Lampshades are covered with paper circles

Plant lampshade :) I think it’s still a little hot for the flower there :)

Lampshade made of laces

The decoupage technique is also used here.

Very interesting solution- wire as an art object :)

The lampshade is decorated with strips of fabric

Lamp made from branches

The lampshade is decorated with crumpled-squeezed coffee filters (muffin tins)

Glass vase lampshade

The base of the lampshade is made up of unwanted toy soldiers, glued on and painted. spray paint

Creative lampshade made from felt strips

Lampshade made from ping pong balls :)

Floral decor

And many, many more different ideas...

Master class on making a lamp from a can with a metal lid from Tom&Brit (bestofinteriors.com)

Punch holes with a nail to create a hole

Insert the cartridge

Paint it one color

Screw in the light bulb and insert it into the jar

The lamp is ready :)

Paper lamps from varrell.com

We need an image of a castle

Cutting out, cutting out windows, gluing

We place a battery-powered spotlight inside

Rope Chandelier by Sarah M. Dorsey (sarahmdorseydesigns.blogspot.com)

We will need a rope, Mod Podge glue (can be replaced with diluted PVA), a ball

To create the wavy shape, Sarah used wooden slats. Lay out the mold and coat it with glue to secure it.

After drying, place it on the ball and coat it generously with glue.

After drying, remove the lampshade from the ball and paint it with white spray paint - Sarah has four layers

A very beautiful lampshade made from granny squares from the author of the resource Aboutgoodness.com

We cover the lampshade with fabric

Fold the strip of fabric in half lengthwise and roll it into a roll.

Straighten slightly

Apply glue to the fold and glue it to the base

Master class on creating a base for a lampshade from Kiri (ilikethatlamp.com)

Required components

Wash the bottle thoroughly, disinfect and dry it

Cover with spray paint

Installation process

,

This is how a gin bottle turned into a base for a lampshade :)

As you can see, the matter is quite simple and very interesting. Give free rein to your imagination, create and let your home be beautiful and cozy!

Well, for those who still prefer to buy ready-made lighting fixtures, I recommend checking out a specialized online store Lampa.ua-, where a huge assortment of high-quality and stylish table lamps, chandeliers, sconces, accessories, etc. is presented. from the best manufacturers and at very flexible, pleasant prices :) By the way, according to Google statistics, this online store is the most popular among Ukrainian buyers :) Use it with pleasure!

I wish everyone good luck and a great mood!!

So, having figured out how a chandelier should be arranged correctly, we take on its main lighting and at the same time decorative elements: lampshade and shade. Reflectors are technologically simpler; their manufacture and fastening to the supporting structure of the chandelier does not cause any difficulties.

The Internet is full of pictures with really very beautiful homemade lamps. However, looking at them, ask yourself: how do you replace a light bulb? The answer is not always found in the primary sources. Methods for fastening lighting elements in lamps, allowing lamp replacement without the use of tools, will be discussed in the next article, but the technological methods described later in this are designed for the fact that the lampshade in this case either moves up, or is removed down, or you can simply climb into it hand.

Materials

In order of increasing complexity (and durability), lampshades and lampshades can be made with your own hands at home from paper, plastics, threads, and ready-made tubes various kinds, twine or yarn, framed with a fabric cover and stained glass. The last 2 are quite complex, but with a skillful approach to work, the lighting and decorative qualities can surpass expensive store-bought ones.

Making a paper lampshade is the easiest way: from materials other than paper, you will need threads and PVA glue, and from a tool - sewing needle, scissors and possibly a sharp utility knife. However, paper lampshades are fragile and therefore suitable mainly for chandeliers. But a damaged paper lampshade can be easily replaced with a new one.

You can make a paper lamp somewhat stronger in various ways. The simplest way is to make a lampshade-ball from paper strips, gluing them at the poles and among themselves, pos. 1 in Fig. However, the design in this case is uniform: sufficient strength of the product is ensured only and only by its spherical shape.

Paper lampshade elements

Another way is to strengthen the paper itself. He'll ask for a little additional material: copper enameled winding wire with a diameter of 0.25-0.4 mm or threads. In the first case, the lampshade will fit without additional reinforcement for a floor lamp, and in the second for overhead decorative elements you will need a solid supporting base, e.g. from plastic bottle. The lampshade paper is strengthened with wire as follows:

• On a sheet with a density of 90-140 g/m2. see the contours of the parts are drawn.
• Using a finely sharpened pencil or a mechanical one with a 0.6 mm rod, draw the lines of the rigidity grid. If the lampshade is glued together from several whole or slightly cut sheets, the grid lines should form a seamless pattern.
• Apply a thin layer of PVA glue with a brush.
• When the glue dries to the touch, apply veins - stiffeners - made of wire along the mesh.
• Lubricate the same PVA sheet with a density of 35-60 g/sq. cm, place it on the first one and gently smooth it with your fingers.
• A day later, the parts are cut out with scissors, glued together and painted. In this way you can even imitate the wings of rare species of butterflies, poses. 2; V in this case- Swallowtail Maak.

When using threads, both sheets are taken with a density of up to 60 g/m2. cm. Then, as said, you will need a supporting base, but you can even imitate the texture of rose petals, pos. 3.

Note: a paper lampshade, durable “almost like a real one,” can be made from papier-mâché. The technology, which is quite labor-intensive, is described below, see about lampshades for the kitchen.

Plastics

It’s easy to make a lampshade for a chandelier from disposable plastic cups, fastened with a stapler, see fig. Its lighting qualities are very good, but its appearance is frankly utilitarian. Therefore, it makes sense to use such lampshades in rooms with sufficient high requirements to the quality of lighting, but not to the ceremonial ones. The directional pattern (DP) of a lampshade made from cups is formed by a cardioid pattern.

Lampshade made from plastic glasses

Lampshade made from plastic spoons

A fan pattern with a wide opening, very soft light in the central spot and uniform illumination in the side zone allows you to achieve a lamp with a lampshade-cone (or pineapple?) from bitten plastic spoons on a base in the form of a PET bottle with a cut off bottom, see fig. Effective light softening is achieved by the spoons acting as translucent bowl-shaped reflectors. They are glued to the bottle and glued together with silicone, mounting or glue gun. Cyanoacrylate glue is also suitable, but it must be thick. Cheap “superglue” is very fluid, drips will spread everywhere and spoil the glossy surfaces of spoons.

You can also make good lampshades from bottles alone. For example, a sphere from their bottoms, fastened with a stapler, like stopper cups (see the figure for a mini-master class), will give a cardioid pattern; however, compared to the “established” one, it is noticeably distorted. But at the dacha or in utility rooms a chandelier made from bottoms will come in handy.

Lampshade made from bottle bottoms

Hedgehog lampshade made from plastic bottles

Romantic soft light, somewhat spotty, but within acceptable limits, will be provided by a globe lamp made of bottle “hedgehogs”; however, they look more like blooming sea anemones - sea anemones, see photo on the right. It’s not difficult to make the “hedgehogs” themselves: the bottoms of the bottles are cut off, the side walls are cut to the scar before narrowing into the neck, the strips are wrapped around the neck, glued with drops of glue and secured with thread or tape for reliability. However, to assemble the “hedgehogs” into a lampshade, you will need a transparent spherical base. It is made in the same way as a lampshade made from threads (see below), only the threads are white nylon or propylene no thicker than 20 gauge, and instead of PVA, colorless water-based acrylic varnish is used.

A lampshade made from leaves cut from bottles allows you to achieve very uniform illumination and is very decorative, see fig. It is assembled on a temporary spherical mandrel, see below.

Lampshade made from homemade plastic leaves

The step-by-step master class in this case is also simple, but requires patience, accuracy, some additional tool and possibly material:

• We are preparing a soldering iron with a nickel-plated bronze tip (for dry soldering) at 40 W or with a regular copper tip at 25 W;
• If the tip is copper, you will also need Teflon (fluoroplastic) tape 0.06 mm wide, 60-80 mm wide;
• Cut out leaves from the bottle. From a lighting engineering point of view, pale green or light brown are better;
• Using a soldering iron tip (copper - through the film) slightly melt the edges of the leaves, otherwise they will look unnatural;
• Using the tip of the sting (copper also through the film) we “draw” the veins;
• Using the flat of the sting between the veins, with light touches, we slightly melt the surface so that it is, like real leaves, not completely smooth;
• Again, using the tip of the sting, going deeper, but without piercing, we bring out the central vein. It is convenient to do this on a soft, heat-resistant backing (calico or felt in several layers will do);
• We place a thread in the central vein and fuse it by “screwing” the side roll onto the hollow;
• If required, we form complex leaves by tying together threads of leaves;
• Having laid out the leaves on the film (now any kind), we impregnate the threads using a pipette acrylic varnish. Once it dries, the foliage is ready for assembly.

Manufacturing procedure New Year's decorations and lamps made from threads has been described many times in RuNet. For example - video:

Video: DIY twine/thread lampshade

Here we can only note that, firstly, you will need at least 100 m of thread for a medium-sized lampshade. Secondly, there is no point in using inflatable balls as mandrels: after 10-20 turns under pressure stretched threads the ball sticks out where it shouldn’t, and the result is something inconceivable. Thirdly, there is also no need to soak the threads in flour paste in advance: the product will turn out fragile and not moisture-resistant.

As a mandrel when making a lampshade from threads, it is best to use a tightly inflated chamber from a sports ball or a durable silicone beach ball, inflated from a pump through a nipple. The mandrel is lubricated several times with petroleum jelly (lanolin), carefully rubbing it with your hands. It won't harm the ball in any way; on the contrary, it will prolong his life.

Device for making a lampshade from threads

Next, the thread is wound onto the mandrel, continuously pulled through a simple device, see fig. This mini-impregnation bath, so that it does not accidentally crawl, tip over or spill glue on something, is secured on the table with tape; convenient double-sided. The glass is first pierced with a needle and thread, then PVA or acrylic varnish is poured and shaken, tightening as necessary. Usually the thread goes through the bath itself, because glue until it dries is a good lubricant.

When winding, do not forget to leave a window for entering the cable and cartridge - the strength of the cut thread ball drops sharply! A day later, after its completion, the air is released from the mandrel and pulled out through the same window. “Vase-green”, it sticks to the threads very rarely and weakly: you can tear it off by slightly pulling or pressing it with your finger, but the product remains intact.

Note: Instead of thread, you can use jute, sisal or propylene twine, but there is a lampshade for it best use, see below.

And where is all this going?

Ball lamps, see fig., are suitable for children's rooms, because... form an even soft light. The one on the left is made from paper cupcake wrappers - on a yarn ball base. Threads – propylene or thin colorless nylon; binder – acrylic varnish. White in the spool, after impregnation with varnish, such threads become almost transparent. The lampshade-ball made from cups (on the right) is not so interesting, because... The dishes are all the same, but it is also more difficult to tear it apart.

Chandelier lampshades for children's rooms

A hemispherical lampshade made from the same cups would be more suitable for the hallway, see fig. on right. At low lamp power (more precisely, its luminous flux) will give a bright spot below and acceptable illumination of the rest of the room, so you can use low-heating incandescent lamps of 15-30 W. The fact is that the resource of energy-saving lamps and LED lamps decreases sharply when switched on/off frequently. And a low-power incandescent lamp, especially in the hallway where the light is not constantly on, will not significantly increase electricity costs.

Chandelier lampshade in the hallway

A special case is the kitchen. The lighting requirements for it are set out in the previous article. But the lampshade in the kitchen quickly gets dirty, and the soot eats away firmly. Let us remember: bright light promotes condensation and bituminization of vapors of organic compounds. This is the deposition of soot; the lampshade is illuminated most brightly.

The simplest solution is a disposable paper lampshade. “Bump”, as in pos. 1 pic. below will give just the right type of lighting in the kitchen, but you will have to redo it quite often. It is better to mold a papier-mâché lampshade on a suitable frame, pos. 2. After varnishing with acrylic varnish, it can be carefully washed with a cloth and dishwashing detergent, and painted with a forge patina, it will look like forged self made and certainly not on some old newspapers.

Lampshades for kitchen lamps

But the lampshade for pos. 3 – juice straws glued to the bottle – an example of a bad solution. Such a lampshade will provide ideal light for the kitchen (the straws also work partly as light guides), but it will get dirty quickly, you can’t clean it properly, and the product is labor-intensive. Plastic reflectors for kitchen lamps for local lighting are best made from reusable plastic dishes, pos. 4, it is quite durable, inexpensive and easy to clean. Cups with handles and saucers, of course, are a matter of design decision, but bowls without a pattern are what you need.

How to make papier-mâché?

Papier-mâché is a useful material for many purposes, so let us recall the technology of its preparation and use:

• Old newspapers, or, better yet, the cheapest unglued writing paper are torn into shreds about the size of a thumbnail. You will need a lot of paper!
• Fill a suitable container with scraps to the top; say, a liter glass jar.
• Dilute 1/3-1/5 PVA by volume in boiling water.
• While the solution has not cooled, pour it into the paper pulp.
• Stir until the paper completely dissolves into fibers.
• Once the papier-mâché has cooled, pour it into a consumable container or use it immediately. Paper paste can be stored for up to 6 months. in the refrigerator in a tightly sealed container.
• Prepare the next portion in the same way.
• If the paper paste goes into use right away, you can add the next one to the stuck area of ​​the mandrel while the previous one is still wet and crumpled with your fingers. If you apply it dry, the product, when dry, may fall apart into “cakes”.
• The workpiece is ready for varnishing, painting, etc. after a week of drying at a temperature of at least 22 degrees. The air temperature around the workpiece must be the same on all sides! Dry on a radiator, convector, in direct sunlight or infrared emitter it is forbidden!

Tubes

Lampshades and shades from sections of tubes are most often made for nightlights and lamps in the bedroom: due to round section they always have a significant refraction of light, which can be very intimate and romantic, but in most cases it is undesirable for permanent and working lighting. Lampshades made of translucent tubes also provide a rather dappled light, see figure; if you use pieces of thin transparent PVC hose, then the play of light will turn out to be very beautiful, but you don’t need to look at it for a long time, much less read or sew in such light.

Tube lampshade

Paper and others fibrous materials They refract light a little, but the tubes themselves are fragile. For example, it is better to make a lampshade made of newspaper tubes on a frame, see below: precisely because they wrinkle easily, thin paper tubes are an excellent material for weaving. As for the lighting properties, paper, especially clean paper, has excellent ones.

Lampshade on frame

Now let's move on to lampshades that are suitable anywhere, incl. and for table lamp, which can be pushed to the floor with an elbow. In addition, we will set the condition that the lampshade covering can be washed, cleaned, and changed at will. Therefore, we do not touch glass or solid hard plastic lampshades; Besides, you can’t make them at home yourself. That is, we will work on lampshades on a frame with soft lining.

About fabrics for lampshades

It is preferable to sew the decorative light cover of the lampshade from fabric with fleecy threads, i.e. natural. Due to diffraction on smooth synthetic threads, the light penetrating through such a lampshade may be hard. Choosing fabric for a lampshade by eye is not difficult: through the sample, turning it smoothly, look at some compact bright light source; preferably LED, because it gives the most coherent, i.e. ordered, light. The selection criterion is simple: the less observed under different angles The more visible the moiré fringes, the better the fabric.

About restoring the lampshade

The lampshade frame is quite labor-intensive and technologically complex, so first you need to look around the household to see if there is a lampshade from an old lamp lying around somewhere. Straightening it, repairing it and updating the lampshade with a new cover will be easier than making the frame from scratch.

Homemade tool for measuring large diameters

The discovered “basket” may turn out to be of a very elaborate shape, and to create patterns (see below) you will need to accurately measure its diameters in several places. In this case, a homemade caliper from 3 will help out wooden slats and a pair of drawing squares. Of course, it will not give the accuracy of a factory rod, but achievable (+/–1 mm) is enough for cutting and sewing work. And an idea of ​​the capabilities of such a tool is given in Fig.

The measurement procedure is a 2-step procedure: marks are made with a pencil on the sponges where they touch the object, and then the size is taken between the marks with a tape measure. In order for the movable sponge to glide more smoothly, and, accordingly, the measurement to be more accurate, you need to place a fluoroplastic film under the rubber bands holding it. To measure small diameters, the jaws are turned over with the squares facing out.

Constructing a pattern

Now we remove the necessary diameters: the lower and upper hoops (D1 and D11 in position 1 in the figure), the largest and smallest on the belts (D2, D6, D10), in places of kinks, i.e. where the curvature of the generatrix changes sign (D4, D8) and at kinks (D5). We take the others more or less evenly between the mandatory ones.

Constructing a lampshade pattern

The diameters of the pattern of 6 wedges will, taking into account the tightening of the fabric, be equal to half the measured diameters (item 2). If there are supposed to be more or fewer wedges of the finished sleeve, proportionally change the proportion of the diameter in the corresponding diameter of the pattern. But it’s too early to cut and sew.

There at pos. 2 it can be seen that the seaming allowance is not geometrically completely similar to the template. In knot I (kink inward) this is not so bad: you can sew on a drawstring sleeve and tighten the seam with a cord. If the decor of the lampshade involves ruffles, frills, scallops, etc., then perhaps this is how it should be: small folds will fall into place, and the cord will not be visible at a break in the contour.

However, on the shelf of the contour (node ​​II), whatever one may say, it is in no way possible to give an allowance so that the seam does not “run away”. In higher geometry it is proven why, but we don’t need to go into this jungle: we will simply cut the paper template according to “capricious” diameters at the kinks and shelves (item 3).

Sewing a cover

Now, how to sew a lampshade using our patterns? First, individual parts of the sleeve are sewn; in this case, bottom, middle and top. Then the widest adjacent part (here the middle) is sewn to the widest belt (bottom). Next, the 2 parts that are next in width are sewn together in the same way, etc. The point is that the shortest transverse seam (we have Seam 2) is sewn last. In this sample, after sewing the bottom to the middle, the top is sewn to them. The sewing of the cover is completed by trimming off the excess allowances, except for the lower and upper hems. The edges must be trimmed.

Frame covering

The next stage is placing the cover on the frame. This is where the machine can be put in the closet: the work is entirely manual. Step by step covering the lampshade frame with a cover is done as follows:

• The cover is turned inside out (it is probably clear that it was sewn from the inside out) and put on the frame;
• Wrap it inside and stitch the top flap;
• Pull and trim the fabric to the first bend (here D8). If there was no hoop in the original sample, it must be installed in advance, see below;
• Baste the fabric to the edges of the frame from top to bottom, alternately, and to the hoop at the bend;
• Repeat paragraphs. 3 and 4 to the next bend (now D5), and so on to the bottom hoop;
• Wrap and stitch the bottom flap.

How the simplest frame of a table lamp or floor lamp is constructed can be seen in pos. 1 pic. The pendant for the chandelier is different in that the ring will be at the top, the extensions from it will go to the upper hoop, and then the ring will need additional holes for attaching the suspension.

Lampshade frame structure

The ring is cut out of well-soldered and fairly durable sheet metal (bronze, brass, galvanized steel 0.4-2 mm thick) or durable plastic from 1 mm. A computer disk is suitable; for the E10 cartridge, you will only need to drill holes in it for braces and fasteners. The main dimensions of the ring for the E27 cartridge with fastening with union shaped nuts (item 3) are given in item. 2. But making a ring for fastening in the gap between the body and the clamp of the cartridge with a skirt (item 4) is unacceptable! Such cartridges are attached only with a threaded fitting in the lid!

How the stretchers are attached to the ring is shown in pos. 5: their blanks are not bent completely with a hook, inserted into the mounting holes and carefully pressed with pliers. Then, if the ring is metal, solder it (see below). If it is plastic, fix it with drops of superglue or silicone.

Soldered assembly

Frame parts are made of plastic steel wire with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm or bicycle spokes. The latter are much stronger, do not rust and do not require painting, but they need to be bent carefully and they are less soldered. To solder the frame you will need:

• A soldering iron of at least 65 W (preferably 100-150 W).
• 6% solution of orthophosphoric acid. Sold for soldering in radio stores and construction stores. Phosphoric acid is also available as food supplement E338 in the form of needle-shaped, colorless, hygroscopic crystals.
• Flux paste (gel for soldering), always with borax.
• Thin, 0.15-0.35 mm, bare copper wire. You can take strands from an electrical wire.
• Solder POS-30 or POS-40. They are refractory (that’s why you need a powerful soldering iron), but much stronger than POS-61 and other low-melting ones.

Note: phosphoric acid of medium strength does not emit highly toxic and/or caustic fumes. But all the same, when working with it you need to take precautions - wear safety glasses and gloves (household latex ones will do).

The key procedures for assembling a soldered frame are shown in Fig.

Soldering steel parts

The brazed steel frame is assembled in stages as follows:

• The ends of the linear blanks are kept in acid for 3-4 minutes (item 1), and then rinsed in water (item 2). You need at least 1 liter of water, and it must be changed after 4-5 washes.
• If the soldering is in the middle or the part is bent, soak a clean white rag in acid and wrap it around the soldering area. Hold for about half a minute, then rinse the rag in acid, wrap it around the soldering area again, and so on until total time the effect of acid on metal will not reach the same 3-4 minutes. After acid treatment, the part is then washed under running water for 1-2 minutes.
• Without touching the treated areas with your bare fingers, the frame is completely assembled without soldering: the soldering areas are butted tightly, but not tightly, i.e. with gaps between turns of 1.5-2 mm, wrapped with copper wire, pos. 3 and 4, and apply 2-3 drops of flux paste to each joint. Soldering points on the cross parts of the parts are wrapped with 2-3 turns. copper wire crosswise and flux with 1-2 drops.
• Semi-dry, i.e. without a hanging drop of solder, use a soldering iron tip to heat the soldering areas until the flux spreads over all the cracks, pos. 5. There is no need to heat the flux until the flux boils and vapor appears. Also, the final result will be better if you heat the flux with a separate soldering iron with a dry bronze nickel-plated tip.
• Take a drop of solder, apply it to the soldering area (item 6) and heat until it flows everywhere, like flux before. The excess solder hanging below is carefully removed with a soldering iron tip. It is impossible to apply unmelted solder in the form of a flexible wire, and refractory solders are produced mainly in rods.

Fabric or twine?

Propylene packaging twine and paper tubes have good lighting properties. If the lampshade is made from woven twine or newspaper tubes, it will give an even, soft light, and complex cutting and sewing work will be eliminated. But the frame for a wicker lampshade must, firstly, have at least 10-12 ribs evenly spaced around the circumference.

Note: if the frame is of a simple shape, then only 3-4 ribs can be load-bearing (steel). Let the rest be made of straw; they are glued to the upper and lower hoops.

Secondly, to create rims at the top and bottom, respectively. The trains are either made double in height, with an interval of 2-3 cm, or strips of thin metal or hard plastic of the same width are attached to them. Headbands are needed for decorative reasons: a solid one is wrapped with twine or a tube, and if the headband is double, the weave can be made in a figure eight. All lateral surface braided like a basket.

Stained glass lampshade

Stained glass lampshades generate light flux mainly by refraction, so they are more suitable for the living room.

stained glass lampshades and lampshades

Stained glass fragments are made from rhinestones, faceted or cabochons. A stained glass lampshade is assembled on a heat-resistant frame (for example, a steel bucket) using the Tiffany technique. But compared to stained glass for a window or door, since the connections of the elements are not solid, but point-based, there are significant differences:

• Only strong, refractory solder is used, the same as for the lampshade frame, as well as flux with borax.
• Before soldering, the framing of rhinestones is made only from special copper foil - folia - 3-15 mm wide, depending on the width of the crystal rim.
• The protective film is removed from the foil immediately before applying it to the crystal; You cannot touch the outer (soldered) surface of the foil with bare hands!
• Also, you can’t put off soldering foil-wrapped rhinestones until tomorrow: the copper will have time to oxidize, and the joints will turn out to be fragile.
• Upon completion of soldering and thorough washing of flux residues (with a rag with alcohol; then with distilled water), the soldering is copper-plated by applying a thick blue solution of copper sulfate with a brush.
• The remaining vitriol is washed off under running water. You cannot rub with a brush or even cotton wool, because... The copper film on the solder is very thin.

A small surprise - about New Year's chandeliers and lampshades

New Year is coming, it's time to do Christmas decorations and holiday decorations. And - a New Year's chandelier. A chandelier? Yes. Remember how the festive mood drops if the overhead light is turned on in the room with the Christmas tree. No problem, but New Year's lighting must correspond to the spirit of the holiday. Let's put off lighting technology until serious days; nothing from the festive light will happen to us in a few evenings. It’s time for business, but it’s also time for fun.

New Year's chandeliers

Usually christmas chandelier– a Christmas wreath with light bulbs woven into it attached to the chandelier in the living room. But even an experienced electrician would not need to do electrical installation work at heights in the pre-holiday rush. And what if the Christmas tree is in the nursery, where the chandelier is made of paper? Then you can at least buy inexpensive plastic blanks for Christmas tree balls, a garland with colorless light bulbs, stuff them into the balls, and hang such a heap (on the left in the figure) where it is more convenient.

If the design of an “everyday” chandelier is suitable, you can screw candle lamps into it and decorate it with the same balls or, for example, painted pine cones, on the right there. Or you can try a little and make a New Year's jasmine chandelier with your own hands, as in the video below. New Year is New Year, no matter what you say.

What could be more interesting and original than a multifaceted lamp that you will make with your own hands?! The lamp itself is an indispensable attribute in every home, but it should be different in some way, shouldn’t it?!

The idea of ​​inspiration to build such beauty can come in a variety of ways. The main desire.

So, in order to get started directly, you will need:
PVA glue
Corrugated cardboard
Scissors
Cutter
Simple pencil
Ruler
Regular light bulb

Once you have purchased everything you need to make a multifaceted lamp, you can proceed directly to the work itself

From cardboard you need to start cutting strips of the thickness you want. But first make sketches with a pencil and a ruler to get fairly even stripes.

There should be a lot of strips so that it is enough for the lamp frame itself

Now, you can start gluing. This must be done very carefully so as not to get dirty with glue. Take one strip at a time and use them to create a square, gluing one after the other. You can come up with the shape of the lamp yourself. Squares can be fastened together in different ways.

It is important to remember that one layer should be smaller than the other.

So, you should get both the frame itself and the walls of your lamp.

After the frame is assembled. We need to do stable base lamps and bring light into our lamp.

To make the lamp base, you need to prepare 3-4 squares. To do this, cut required amount strips and glue them together.

The resulting squares should also be glued all together - this will be the base of the lamp

After this, it is worth bringing in the light. We will conduct it to the base of the lamp.

To do this, you need to take the cartridge and trace its outline on the bar, which, in fact, will hold it.

Cut a hole along the marked lines

It is necessary to glue the socket holder into the lamp.

That's all, the lamp is almost ready. There is no need to glue the light bulb inside the frame, since it will stick quite tightly anyway. The lamp frame can be painted in the color that suits your interior.

Making something with your own hands and then decorating your home is not a source of special pride? Homemade items allow you to unleash your creative potential and save a lot of money at the same time. AND self-production lamps are no exception. Today you can find various ways How to make a lighting device with your own hands. To do this, just type into the search bar “how to make a paper lamp with your own hands.” But you no longer need to do this, because in this article we will try to give the most complete answer to this question. Here we will touch on the most pliable material for a lamp - paper.

Our article will also help you understand whether you can cope with such work, and whether a paper lamp will suit your interior.

Paper - what could be simpler?

Light from a paper lamp

Lightness and airiness are what many associate paper with. Therefore, the paper lamp will also take on these properties, bringing with it to various interiors:

• unusualness;
• softening and smoothing out angularity;
• creating diffused and subdued light, giving the atmosphere romance and mystery.

Today, paper lighting fixtures are associated with Asia and the East. It was here that not only paper, but also products made from it first appeared: umbrellas, lanterns, etc. The East, as they say, is a delicate matter. This statement is perfectly brought to life with the help of paper and creativity, which is reborn into unique and unique lamps.
Despite the fact that China is considered the birthplace of paper, paper lighting fixtures can be safely made in different styles:

• Japanese;
• Chinese;
• pop art;
• eclecticism;
• country;
• vintage, etc.

Note! Only by making a lamp with your own hands will you be able to perfectly match it with the rest of the interior, emphasizing or connecting together all the directions of the design used.

Since working with paper is quite easy, and you can find it in almost unlimited quantities in the house, today there are a wide variety of options for assembling paper lamps. Let's look at the simplest and most popular of them.

Since paper was first made in China, it is logical to start with creating a Chinese-style lighting fixture.

Chinese style lamp

Many people prefer to make lamps from paper in the Chinese style, since in this case they can bring brightness, vibrant colors and a sense of celebration to the interior. All this can be achieved with a Chinese lamp.
Materials you will need:

• paper. It can be rice or regular. It is desirable that the sheets of paper be translucent, colored or white;

Note! For the closest possible resemblance to the original Chinese folk lamps, you should work with rice paper.

• cartridge. It can be bought at the market or taken from an old chandelier;
• bulb. Since the lamp will be made of paper, unheated light bulbs should be chosen as a light source. It is best to opt for LED bulbs.

In addition to the materials themselves, you will also need some tools:

Chinese lantern diagram

• pencil and ruler;
• stationery knife;
• awl;
• a thread.

The lamp assembly will proceed as follows:

• make markings on back side paper. This way you can create a relief. To do chinese lantern, you need a diagram according to which the markings are made;
• bend the paper according to the markings so that in the right places receive accordion. Do not rush in this matter, since how smooth and beautiful the flashlight will turn out will depend on the accuracy of execution;
• we assemble the socket and the light bulb together;
• Make holes in the bottom with an awl and thread a thread through it;
• We wrap our paper lampshade around the socket. The edges of the paper sheet can be glued or simply placed on top of each other. The last option will help you quickly change light bulbs without damaging the lampshade.

Ready-made flashlights

The difficulty here can only arise in the correct folding of the base of the lampshade. As a result, you will get a beautiful and almost authentic Chinese lantern. To give it a more beautiful appearance, you can paint the lampshade with Chinese characters or stylized designs.

Lamp frame

In Japan, paper products are also very popular and widespread. Therefore, you can safely use Japanese motifs when creating a paper lamp. Paper (preferably rice paper) is also the main element here. But now it will be supplemented with bamboo sticks. Note! Bamboo grows in Japan, so this element will look great in the overall display of the lamp.
Here you will need the following list of materials for work:

• tracing paper (in the absence of rice sheets);
• ceramic cartridge with a small base;
• thread, preferably thick;
• stain;
• piece of MDF. Can be replaced with plywood;
• wire with switch and plug.

Tools you need to have on hand:

• PVA glue;
• sandpaper;

Finished Japanese paper lamp

• scissors;
• file;
• square;
• brush.

For the base we take plastic corners, bamboo/wooden slats or wire. We assemble the lamp base according to the following scheme:

• we clean the slats sandpaper and cut it to the height we need. This will be the height of the entire lamp;
• We make markings on the slats at the gluing points. They will help to make an even and beautiful frame;
• We coat the joints with glue and assemble the slats into a single structure. For durability corner connections should be knitted with thick thread. This will help strengthen the base and also give it decorative look. The frame itself can be round or square;
• MDF sheet will be used as a cover. We make a hole in the sheet for the cartridge;
• after that everything wooden elements the structures are covered with stain. You can apply varnish on top of it. Such protection will make the tree resistant to the negative effects of moisture and protect it from wood insects;
• Now all that remains is to attach it to the frame paper sheets. They can be left clean, but it is better to first apply a Japanese pattern or hieroglyph here. We simply glue the sheets to the frame.

This is a slightly more complex version of the lamp in terms of implementation. But it turns out to be more durable and of higher quality, which will have a positive effect on the service life of the lighting device.

Glass and paper

The easiest thing to make with your own hands is a glass lamp. This is a portable table lamp that is very quick and easy to make. To make such a lighting device you will need:

• a thin sheet of paper (you can print a specific pattern on it);
• round and tall glasses;
• wire with a thickness of 1-2 mm;
• candles-tablets.

The tools you will need are:

• scissors;
• PVA glue;
• pliers;
• stationery knife;
• scotch.

The algorithm of actions here is as follows:

Bent wire

• bend the wire using pliers so that it takes on the appearance shown in the photo. A candle-tablet will be placed on its lower part. The length of the wire should ultimately be slightly greater than the height of the glass. This will make it much more convenient to remove the candle from the container;

• The glass itself should be decorated with a sheet of paper on which the pattern you like is applied. Carefully glue the sheet to the glass. The top of the container can be decorated using plaster or polymer clay.

Ready glass

As you can see, this requires a minimum of effort and time, and as a result you will get beautiful lamp, perfect for a romantic dinner or just a quiet, relaxing evening of relaxation.

Paper straws

Probably the most original and unusual lighting device in our “paper” story there will be a lamp made of paper tubes. You can decorate any lamp with this lampshade:

• chandelier;
• table lamp;
• floor lamp;
• wall sconce.

Tube lampshade

Such a lampshade will provide a soft and subdued light, which will become a real highlight of any interior, made in any style. Here, as you might guess, the main and only elements of the entire structure will be paper tubes. They can be made from both newspapers and colored paper. The main thing to remember is that the appearance of the lampshade should complement the existing interior in the room.
The number of tubes depends on the size of the lamp on which it will be placed. The “pipe minimum” that should be wound is 100 pieces. The tubes are attached to each other using the same PVA glue, thus forming the required shape:

• round;
• oval;
• square;
• arbitrary.

First, the first row is laid out, and then the entire structure is built on it.

Note! The walls here need to be built in such a way that the lampshade expands towards the center. To do this, the diameter of the mold must be gradually increased, and after the middle - gradually reduced.

If desired, the resulting lampshade, after it has dried, can be painted with spray paint. The result is a solid product without flaws.
This is not a complete list possible options making a lamp from paper. But these are the most popular methods that are implemented easily and quickly.

Conclusion

As you can see, making a paper lamp with your own hands is quite simple. Not needed here expensive materials or a lot of time. If you strictly follow the instructions, you will be able to quickly complete the task, and your home will have a new, beautiful and, without unnecessary modesty, original lighting fixture.

Return