How to install double-glazed windows with your own hands. Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows: preparation of the window block and installation process, installation of the window sill

When taking measurements, you need to take into account the type of opening - without a quarter or with a quarter, as well as its features and other elements in the form of a window sill and.

In the first option, you need to measure the clean opening vertically and horizontally.

In the second, measure the horizontal distance between the quarters at the narrowest point, adding another 30 mm to the resulting figure. In the vertical plane, the net distance from the lower plane of the opening to its upper quarter is measured, which determines the height of the future glazing.

We carry out the necessary calculations

In order to place an order without a quarter, you need to not only measure the net distance between the surfaces of the window opening, but also calculate it optimal size in the following way.

To do this, subtract 50 mm from the vertical distance to obtain the required height, and 30 mm from the horizontal distance to calculate the width. These gaps allow for a 15mm layer of foam around the perimeter of the window and 35mm underneath.

To the measurements of the window sill and ebb, another 50 mm is added to allow for insertion into the wall.

As a result, before going to the store and ordering components, you need to know six sizes: the height and width of the glass unit, the length and width of the window sill, the length and width of the ebb.

Preparation of tools, materials and components

Tools you will need standard set home craftsman: screwdriver, level, hammer drill, set of hexagons, jigsaw, knife, pencil and tape measure.

The materials you need to purchase are: polyurethane foam, silicone, putty, screws or dowels, etc.

And, of course, the set of components for installing double-glazed windows: window profiles, handles, fasteners, window sills, ebbs, etc.

Removing the old window

1. In the case of blind window frames, first the glazing beads and the glass they hold are pulled out. In the case of unlocking sashes, they are simply removed from their hinges along with the glazing. In the case when the structures are many years old, and the frames in them are loose and “walk” diagonally to avoid unnecessary problems and for safety, it is advisable to remove the glazing from them in advance.
2. Next, in order to pull out the frame itself, using a regular hacksaw, it is sawed through in several places. In some cases, this work is done using a grinder with a circle on concrete.
3. Having divided the frame into several parts with the help of a crowbar, a chisel, a crowbar and a hammer, they are separated from the window opening, to which they have “grown” during operation. In some cases, when a frame made of high-quality wood is well preserved, it can be left alone. But ideally, it should be dismantled so that the new glazing can be attached directly to the wall.
4. Using the same technology, used windowsills are removed, especially if they are made of wood. In case of concrete structure it is crushed with a jackhammer; in its absence, you can get by with a crowbar and a sledgehammer. Again, if it is in good condition and there are no objective reasons to destroy it, this can be avoided. However, in this case, two things should be taken into account: firstly, plastic construction it is always warmer than concrete, so if there is a lack of heat, it is better to install it, and secondly, the old structure physically cannot ensure good contact with the new frame.
5. After dismantling the intermediate elements, the wall load-bearing surfaces of the opening are inspected, cleared of debris and, if necessary, repaired.

Preparing a new window

If a new window has opening sashes, it must be securely locked before installation so that it cannot accidentally open while manipulating it. It must be closed during foaming, sealing the cracks and fixing it in the frame, otherwise its plastic ribs can be bent in a semicircle by the foam expanding during the hardening process.

Before opening its doors, it is necessary to allow all fixing and insulating mixtures to dry completely.– at least 12 hours after completion of work.

Many beginners make the mistake of thinking that by removing the protective film from its surface immediately before starting work, they are preparing it for installation.

This is not true, because this protection is needed most of all in order to avoid possible damage or contamination of the transparent coating during installation. Therefore, this tape can be removed only after all finishing works involving puttying, painting or installation of slopes.

Window installation

1. This operation begins by drawing markings on its frame for future fastenings, which are installed on all four sides of the frame at intervals of 700 mm. For light single structures, large intervals are allowed, not exceeding one meter. The extreme fastener is mounted with an indentation from its corner in the region of 50-150 mm. In terms of fastenings, the exception is double-glazed windows with a stand profile; they do not require fixing elements from below.
2. Fasteners are installed on the frame according to the markings. They are connected to it so that the self-tapping screw passes through the metal located in the frame itself, the so-called bent metal channel. For this purpose, special metal screws with a diameter of 4 mm are selected. They are already equipped with a drill tip. You can, of course, use simple 5 mm self-tapping screws, but in this case you will have to do double work, first drilling a 4 mm diameter hole for them with a drill, and then screwing them in. They are approximately equal in cost, but they differ in metal thickness, so the plates are sold with a thickness of 1.1 to 1.5 mm, and suspensions from 0.5 to 1 mm.
3. At the intended mounting points of fasteners on window opening make indentations. This operation is not done by eye or approximately, but I apply a window frame already equipped with clamps to the installation site, and exactly along the perimeter of the fasteners a recess with a depth of 20 to 40 mm is knocked out, its “imprint” on the surface of the opening directly, but load-bearing material, be it stone or brick. The fixing elements will be immersed in these recesses flush with the opening.
4. The window is leveled in the opening, placing wooden chips under the frame where necessary. Such wedges can only be inserted opposite the transverse elements of the frame: under the horizontal planks at their intersection with the vertical ones and vice versa. Wedge installation procedure: two bottom and one top to adjust the bottom edge and horizon at the top. Next, two at the top to fix the frame up and down. And then all the remaining wedges from left to right, and of course on both the bottom and top sides of the frame. If there is an impost, it is also wedged in such a way that all vertical planks are strictly parallel to each other. Aligning the wedges takes up the lion's share of the time of the entire installation process. But this is exactly what the correct positioning of the frame in the window opening will depend on, both in the vertical and horizontal planes.
5. Fix the glass unit in the opening. Once the position of the window is adjusted as perfectly as possible, it can be secured. To do this, use either dowels or anchors. The second option is, of course, more expensive, but also more reliable. In principle, a dowel installed in concrete can support a weight of up to 60 kg, which is more than enough for a window. Dowels for fixing in concrete, hollow brick, shell rock or foam concrete are used with a cross-section from 6 to 8 mm and a length from 75 to 80 mm.
6. Finally, the gaps between the window opening and the frame installed in it are foamed so that there is not even the slightest void left between them. Foaming technology in the case of crevices larger than 20 mm involves carrying out this operation in several stages, with several layers of foam and breaks of 1-2 hours for each layer to dry. In this case, it will be possible to minimize the deformation of the foam during its expansion, and reduce its useless waste, since the protruding edges would still need to be cut off. In the case when work is carried out at temperatures less than 5 degrees Celsius, ordinary summer foam will not work; it is recommended to use a special type, winter or all-season.

As a rule, the window sill part has a standard length and width with the necessary margin, which is cut during the installation process to the measurements of a specific window opening. This procedure is performed using a jigsaw, grinder or hacksaw with small teeth.

Next, the already cut part is adjusted to the stand profile, simultaneously setting it strictly according to the level, using the same technology as the part itself window system. It is advisable to place the plugs on the window sill so that they fit into the opening in the wall. It is better to attach them with special glue, and not rely on silicone or acrylic, which are not intended for this.

Thus, in the end, the window sill element must be installed strictly level, so that a glass full of water can be placed on it without spilling it. It should not sag or bend in any place, even with strong hand pressure.

In some cases, the window sill is mounted with a slight slope, less than 3 degrees, towards the street, which is necessary so that the condensation that appears on the glass does not accumulate, but runs down the inclined window sill to the ground.

After completing the adjustment and fixing, you can fill the gap under the window sill with foam, and while it dries, about 12 hours, so that the foam does not lift it, you need to put something on it, for example, several bottles of water.

After about a day, when the foam has completely hardened, its protruding edge is cut off with a knife.

It happens that due to the unevenness of the window sill element, after its installation a gap forms between its upper plane and the glazing frame. It must be filled with silicone, which tends to turn black with mold over time, which will undoubtedly ruin the appearance of a snow-white window.

Therefore, it is better not to hide such a defect, but to try to prevent its occurrence at the installation stage. This is done very simply - screw the plates to the plastic profile before fixing it Z-shaped made of galvanized sheet. Moreover, such additional details make it easier to position the window sill.

Installation of slopes and platbands

1. Along the inner perimeter of the window, screws 95 mm long are mounted wooden slats. Using a square and a level, the position is also controlled.
2. The U-shaped starting profile is installed on the so-called bugs - very small self-tapping screws screwed directly into the frame. It is into this profile that the slopes will be inserted, so when installing it, special care is required in the operation of connecting its outer edges.
3. Fastens with a stapler F-profile. The groove of this profile corresponds to the groove of the previous one, and it is on them that the slopes will be held.
4. When the entire perimeter of the double-glazed window is equipped with two types of profiles, the slopes themselves are inserted into them.
5. At the final stage plastic slopes Platbands are installed sequentially: one top and two side. To join each other, their edges are cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

Adjusting fittings

The position of the valves is adjusted using hexagons located near the hinges. To do this, use either a hex bit on a screwdriver, screwdriver or miniature wrench. Thus, in the process of their rotation, they achieve this position window sashes, which would allow them to easily open and close without causing harm to other elements of the system.

It is also not considered normal for a slightly open sash to close on its own or, conversely, for a closed one to open.

They must remain in a constant position. Often, during the process of opening or closing, excessive friction with the locking hardware occurs, accompanied by corresponding sounds. To get rid of this, simply unscrew the screw that secures the corresponding fittings and move it up or down by 0.5-1 cm.

Installation of ebb tides

Usually ebb tides are attached to complete all installation work. It is better to mount them right under the window, so as to prevent water from leaking into the gap between it and the frame. However, sometimes this cannot be done, and the ebb is screwed directly to its frame using small metal screws with a cross-section of 4 mm and a length of 9 mm.

• Let's calculate the costs.
• Time and money spent on self-installation.

The technology for installing a window with your own hands involves two operations: dismantling the old glazing and installing a new one, which in time corresponds to approximately 30-90 minutes to remove the old glazing from the opening and about 2 hours to install a new double-glazed window of medium size, that is, up to 2x2 meters.

Thus, to replace the glazing in one window opening you will need to spend from 2.5 to 3.5 hours, which is quite a bit. After all, with such a pace of work, even in one day off you can independently change the glazing in several openings.

This time will not be wasted because by doing this work with your own hands you can be confident in the quality of the installation, and in addition, you can save a lot of money because the master will require payment from 2000 to 4000 rubles for each glazed opening.

Often, when ordering from a company that also provides installation services, the price for this procedure is charged as a percentage of 10 to 40% of the cost of the double-glazed windows themselves.

Is it worth installing windows yourself?

There are no difficulties in installing plastic profiles on your own, since they are almost ready for use, modular design, which does not require assembly of individual parts. To insert and secure it in a window opening, you do not need to have any special technical education or expensive equipment.

Please note that installation is carried out at your own responsibility. which means you need to measure, select and order all the components and materials yourself.

Accordingly, the supplier’s guarantee will only apply to the double-glazed windows and fittings, and the quality of the seams, their filling, the verticality and horizontality of all parts, as well as the actual operability of the window are solely the responsibility of the individual who installed it.

If the order was made from an installation organization, it provides a full guarantee on materials and installation quality from one to 5 years.

However, if you have at least a couple of days off, hard work and the desire to save money, you can change the glazing yourself in own home, having completed this work no worse than the entire installation team. In this case, the team means the foreman who actually installs the window profile and his assistant who gives him the tools.

Thus, when independently conducting all you need to do is call someone, a relative, acquaintance or friend for help, and in the speed of glazing you can compete with professionals, and the cost of paying someone else’s labor will be zero.

Common mistakes

When non-professionals install a double-glazed window on their own for the first time, they often make a number of common mistakes, which, at first glance, may not be obvious and uncritical, but, ultimately, affect the service life and comfort of the window structure:

• The profile is installed with glazing beads on the street, which makes the house completely defenseless for unauthorized persons to enter. To do this, they just need to remove the glazing beads and simply pull the double-glazed windows out of the openings.
• Installation is carried out as is, that is, without checking and adjusting the level, which results in problems with the functioning of the structure.
• Foaming the cracks using a can of polyurethane foam, do not read the instructions for it, which say about its vulnerability to ultraviolet radiation. This means that in order for it to remain intact, the cracks with it must be covered with cladding.
• Fixing the structure simply by foaming the cracks without securing it in any way in the opening. Such a mistake in the case of an opening with a quarter can, in extreme cases, lead to cracking of the slopes, since the foam does not guarantee the immobility of the frame, which, when displaced, will break them. In the case of an opening without a quarter, the glass unit may, over time, under the influence of vibration or other factors, generally fall out onto the street.

• Not recommended for dismantling any wooden structures, and in particular old frame, use a metal cutter, as it is not suitable for this. Such a thin disc, rotating at a speed of 7000 revolutions per minute, can easily get stuck or deformed on the first knot, which is extremely dangerous for the operator and others. This is also true for a toothed disc on wood.
• So that one of the household members does not accidentally ruin the work If you accidentally open the sash at the foam hardening stage, it is best not to install the opening handle at this time; without it, even out of ignorance, it will be impossible to open it, and in the case of solid frames, this nuance is not at all relevant.

Today I will tell you how to install 8 plastic windows and an entrance door with your own hands in one day. To perform this work you will not need any special skills or expensive equipment. But, of course, there are many nuances that are definitely worth paying attention to. And of course there are several secrets on how to save money when ordering.

I used windows with optimal thermal characteristics with a four-chamber window profile and a double-glazed unit, as well as a reinforced entrance door. By the way, it was the door that made up almost half of the cost of the order. And the total costs amounted to 40 thousand rubles for the set and another 4.5 thousand rubles for delivery. How to buy windows at the same price is at the end of the article.

Let's get started!

2. We have a newly built aerated concrete house, in which we need to install 8 windows and one entrance door. First of all, we take all dimensions from the openings. As you remember, I made overhead quarters around the perimeter of the openings on three sides (a quarter is not needed at the bottom - the window sill will be there). For quarters I used standard ones aerated concrete blocks 5 cm thick, which were installed like all masonry on polyurethane foam. The recess of windows during installation should be at least 1/3 of the wall thickness. It is also worth noting that you should not try to make openings to fit standard window sizes - the technology for their production is automated and there is no difference in cost between standard size or a custom window. We calculate the final window dimensions taking into account the following factors. On the side and top from the frame to the wall there should be a gap of 1 to 2 centimeters on each side, which will be filled with polyurethane foam. At the bottom of all windows from the factory there is a 3-centimeter high stand profile, which is needed for convenient installation of the window sill. Plus, there should also be a gap of about 1 centimeter under the delivery profile for polyurethane foam. Total, roughly speaking from internal dimensions the opening needs to be subtracted 4 centimeters horizontally and 6 centimeters vertically. You shouldn’t get too carried away and push the frame into the opening without a gap, because... It will be extremely inconvenient to pour polyurethane foam into a gap of less than 5 mm.

3. It is important to know that opening sections greatly increase the cost of the construction of any window. Therefore, if the goal is to save money, you need to make the most of fixed, non-opening windows. In case of suburban one-story house there is no problem going outside to wash the windows, and for ventilation you can make an opening transom (due to the design features, it is several times cheaper than a tilt-and-turn mechanism, but at the same time its width should be significantly greater than its height, more precisely, its height cannot exceed 50 centimeters). The advantage of the blind section is also that you don’t lose effective area glazing. In my case, there are 5 blind windows measuring 60x60 cm, two blind panoramic windows 1.4x1.7 meters, one tilt-and-turn window 0.6x1.3 meters and an entrance door with partial glazing 0.9x2.3 meters. The above price includes the windows and door only (including hinges, handles and locks). Separately, I needed to purchase anchor plates, dowels, self-tapping screws, PSUL sealing tape, polyurethane foam, window sills and flashings for total amount 3.5 thousand rubles.

4. We will need: a screwdriver with a concrete drill, polyurethane foam with a gun, PSUL tape, fastening plates, dowels for aerated concrete and self-tapping screws. Also, the bubble level was not included in the frame. Once again I want to draw your attention to the fact that you cannot skimp on measuring instruments.

5. There are two ways to secure the window frame: through fastening with unpacking of double-glazed windows and using anchor plates. The first method requires more time and skills. In particular, you will need to carefully remove the glass unit from the frame and then install it in place. The glazing beads that hold it are usually fixed very firmly and in order not to scratch the edges you will need a special spatula and patience. Plus, if we are talking about installation with two hands, then with large windows the problem will be that the removed glass unit cannot be tilted, unlike the frame in which it is installed. In addition, through-mounting requires precise fixation when drilling and an assistant will definitely be required. Much easier installation carried out on mounting plates. Each such plate costs 10 rubles. They need to be installed at the rate of 1 plate for every 50 centimeters. The plate is installed by turning it in the groove of the frame and fixed using a self-tapping screw with a drill (to drill metal carcass inside the frame).

6. After this, PSUL tape is glued to the outside of the frame on all sides except the base - a pre-compressed sealing tape. It is used when installing a window in an opening with quarters. The purpose of the tape is to protect the polyurethane foam from ultraviolet radiation and, consequently, destruction. In the cold season, it is easier to install windows, because... the tape expands very slowly in the cold.

7. A six-meter roll of PSUL tape costs 140 rubles. When fixing the tape on outside It is preferable to step back 1-1.5 cm from the edge of the frame, especially if you have deep quarters. This should be done so that when pouring polyurethane foam between the frame and the wall, it does not get on the PSUL tape.

8. Now we move on to the window opening. Its geometric dimensions are ideal, and its base perfectly matches the horizon. This happens naturally when building with aerated concrete if you follow the technology and level each next row of masonry to zero. I started the installation with small blind windows and they differ from the others in that they will not have window sills. Therefore, we will not use the stand profile. To support the frame on the base of the opening I use a piece of laminate 7 mm thick.

9. Place the window and mark the location for the mounting holes. We drill and install special screw dowels for aerated concrete. It is worth paying special attention that you should not try to hammer them in with one blow, especially if they are located close to the edge of the block - there is a risk of breaking off a piece of the block. After this, we insert self-tapping screws through the mounting plates.

10. Our next task is to install the side window vertically. In the case of small windows this will not be difficult, because... there will be no skewing of the window diagonally and it is enough to take measurements at any point of the frame. After this, we tighten the screws on the fastening plates and remove the piece of laminate at the base. Any window must be fixed so firmly that it can be held in the opening solely by the mounting plates. Polyurethane foam is used primarily for filling voids and thermal insulation, and not for mechanically fixing the frame in the opening.

11. You will have to tinker with large windows. Each one weighs more than 80 kilograms and will not be easy to lift into the opening alone. I built a staircase from blocks and gradually raised the window 5 centimeters upward. I used 9 mounting plates for each window. 3 on each side, except the bottom. Here you need to pay closer attention to the verticality of the frame and apply a level in all corners. On large windows At the bottom there is a support profile in which the window sill will be installed. Directly below the support profile I also placed a laminate plate, which was removed immediately after fixing the anchor plates to the wall.

12. The tilt-and-turn window is 2 times smaller in size, but for it I decided to use 8 anchor plates, because an open sash will add load to the frame. On average, it takes about 30 minutes to install one window. And very serious mistake, which is accepted by the majority - protective film must be removed from the frame immediately after installation. Even if you installed the windows at the beginning of the renovation, the film must be removed immediately. If this is not done, then it will be more difficult to tear it off, and the plastic will burn out unevenly (this is important for the outside of the frame).

13. Let's move on to front door. This is a reinforced door with 3 hinges with a full frame around the perimeter. Opening inward is much more convenient than opening outward. But most people have a stereotype that the door should be opened outwards. When installing door frame the most important thing is to ensure a uniform fit around the perimeter. I used 10 anchor plates to secure the door. Special attention It is worth paying attention to the verticality of the side walls of the door frame in two planes. For reliability, the fixation of each anchor plate can be supplemented with a second self-tapping screw. As with windows, the door should be fully functional when held in place only by anchor plates. It should not warp when opened and it should fit snugly around the perimeter when closed.

14. Now we take a gun with polyurethane foam. The presence of a pistol is mandatory because it allows you to regulate the volume of foam output. There are nuances with foam that you definitely need to know. First, the foam is afraid of ultraviolet radiation and must be protected from sunlight. For this purpose, there is PSUL tape on the outside of the window; on the inside, it is necessary to plaster the slopes or, as an option, paint over it. As for applying foam, it absolutely cannot be trimmed. The shell that has formed on it protects the internal open cellular structure from moisture absorption and subsequent destruction. Therefore, the seam between the frame and the wall should be filled exactly to the extent that the excess does not protrude outward. It is important not to overdo it with deepening the gun nozzle, because... do not forget that on the outside we have PSUL tape and it should not come into contact with fresh foam. Approximately 5-10 minutes after filling the seams with foam, you should visually check its condition and, if necessary, carefully compact it (before it hardens, this is easy to do). If work is carried out at temperatures below +5 degrees, it is imperative to use special winter foam.

15. Next, install the fittings and check how the windows open. If the window opens poorly or jams, this is a sign that errors were made when installing the window. Most likely, the frame is not strictly vertical in all corners. This can be corrected by adjusting the hinges and lock.

16. Done! The windows and door should be left for a day until the foam completely hardens. And we move on to the finishing stage.

17. Let's take it plastic window sills 20 centimeters deep. In total, I need 3 window sills: two 140 cm and one 70 cm. A finished window sill 150 cm long cost me only 200 rubles. We cut off the excess using a jigsaw and install it under the frame in the stand profile. It is worth keeping in mind that the depth of the window sills into the frame is 2 centimeters; this is important when choosing the depth. Before installation, do not forget to remove the protective film around the perimeter. We install the window sill either strictly horizontally or with a slight (1 degree) slope from the window.

18. We cover the edges with special plates, which should be glued with superglue. As a support when setting the level, you can use cuttings from the window sill itself or wooden block. After this, we weigh the window sill from above so that the mounting foam does not lift it up. And fill the entire plane of the base with foam from below. Just as with window frames, you should control the expansion of the foam and prevent it from having to be cut with a knife. Just tamp it down until it hardens.

19. The final chord is the installation of low tides. We cut it to length, fix it to the window frame using self-tapping screws (after having coated the joint silicone sealant), fill the base with polyurethane foam and load it.

20. Done! Don’t forget to remove the protective film from the frames, window sills and ebbs. There is nothing complicated about installing windows and you can handle this amount of work alone. By doing this work with my own hands, I saved more than 15 thousand rubles on installation.

Now comes the fun part. The Chertanovo office of the Okna Rosta company decided that there should be a discount on windows not only for me, but for all readers of my blog. Therefore, we made an exclusive promotion for ordering plastic windows. The minimum discount of 33% is relevant for everyone who is ready to independently measure and install plastic windows.

All the details are here -

Today, PVC windows have become very common, and along with them, those companies that install them have gained wide popularity.

However, installing PVC windows with your own hands does not present any particular difficulties, so you should not be afraid of such work.

Step-by-step instructions for installing windows

The whole process consists of several actions that require a sequence of execution:

1. Dismantling old windows.
2. Preparatory activities for installing a new window.
3. Installation of the stand profile.
4. Attaching the mounting hardware to the frame of the new window.
5. Creation of special recesses for these fasteners in the wall.
6. Direct installation of the window and its alignment.
7. PVC fastening.
8. Filling all seams with polyurethane foam.
9. Window sill installation and leveling.
10. Fastening slopes.
11. Adjusting window fittings.
12. Low tide installation.

It must be said that many of these stages are preparatory, so the whole process can be divided into the following types works:

1. Preliminary measurements of all parameters.
2. Preparing to install the opening.
3. Do-it-yourself preparation of PVC windows.
4. Direct installation.

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Measurements and calculations

Before purchasing a product, you should carefully measure its required parameters. In this case, you need to take into account one characteristic of the opening:

• has a quarter;
• does not have a quarter.

A quarter is a special detail of a block, concrete or other structure, which serves to reduce heat loss.

If there is no quarter, then the window is made 5 cm shorter in length and 3 cm shorter in width. This is explained by the fact that in in this case it is necessary to leave gaps - 1.5 cm on each side, and 3.5 cm at the bottom for the window sill.

It must also be said that in various documentation (standards) there are 2 cm, not 1.5 cm.

As for the opening that has a quarter, then PVC windows are ordered into it, which are 3 cm wider than the width of the opening itself. But the length in this case should remain the same.

In order for all measurements to be correct and the window to fit in the future, they must be carried out at the narrowest point.

There are subtleties when choosing the size of the ebb and window sill. In most cases, windows are installed by removing them a third deep into the opening, that is, not in the center. However, installing windows yourself allows you to make a choice in this regard. Accordingly, the window sill is chosen based on the result obtained.

You just need to say that both ebb and window sills should be 5 cm larger than what was obtained as a result of the measurements.

As for the width of the window sill, it should overlap the window on each side by 2 cm. When calculating, the minimum margin can be considered 8 cm, but it is better to make 15 cm, so that later these cutouts can be redone if the first attempt is unsuccessful.

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Making a window opening

So, when all the calculations are completed and the dimensions of all components are known, you can begin to prepare the place where the product will be installed.

First you need to start removing the old window. This can be done different ways. If you are dealing with an old wooden window, then it is better to do this:

1. First, remove all the glass, for which you need to remove the glazing beads or nails holding them in place.
2. Then remove any nails or glazing beads that are holding the frame itself.
3. Remove frame.

Why do you need to remove glass? The fact is that old windows were very often simply nailed to the window sill through the frame. During the process of dismantling the fixed window, the glass could simply crack and fall out of its place, which is unsafe. After the old window frame is dismantled, the entire niche must be cleaned of dirt, dust and paint residues.

It should be noted: foam adheres best to fresh wood, so old layer it is necessary to remove, which can be done with a plane, sandpaper or a grinder with a grinding wheel.

Of course, this should only be done in wooden niches.

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The process of preparing a new window

It must be said right away that some professional workers who have already installed more than a dozen PVC windows with their own hands do this without disassembling them. Concerning independent work, it is better to adhere to the following recommendations.

It is necessary to free the frame from the sashes. To do this, remove the pin, which is located in the upper loop. It can be removed with pliers and a screwdriver by carefully picking it up and pushing it out. After removing the pin, the sash can be easily removed from the bottom hinge. If the window does not have sashes, then it is necessary to remove the glass from it, which can be done by removing all the glazing beads. You can use a knife or spatula for this. It is inserted into the gap between it and the frame and moved to the side with a smooth movement.

It must be said that such procedures need to be performed only in the case of large products. If it is possible not to violate the integrity of the new window, then it is better not to do this.

WITH outside The protective film must be removed from the frame so that this does not cause any difficulties later.

Then you need to apply markings, that is, mark the places where the product is attached to the niche, regardless of which method is chosen (we will talk about them a little further). It is recommended to adhere to a step of 0.4 m. Minimum distance there should be at least 15 cm from the attachment point to the corner.

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Installation methods for PVC windows

It must be said right away that the choice of method should not be based on such product parameters as the number of sashes and chambers in a double-glazed window. The installation method should be chosen based on the dimensions of the product and depend only on the material from which the walls are made.

So, PVC installation windows can be done in one of two ways:

• on anchor bolts or dowels;
• using special fastening fittings.

Anchors and dowels secure the frame to the wall. In this case, in the case of both anchor bolts and dowels, holes of appropriate sizes are drilled.

Installation using these fasteners is good when it comes to concrete, block or brick walls.

As for fastening fittings, they are usually used in the case of wooden walls. But it should be noted that this is an optional rule.

The bottom line is that the plates are pressed into the profile and installed against the wall. Such plates themselves are attached using ordinary self-tapping screws.

If you want to install plates on brick or concrete walls, then it is best to pre-cut openings of appropriate sizes in them. This will help avoid unnecessary work associated with subsequent leveling of slopes.

Very often, builders use both methods at once when installing windows, which is also acceptable.

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Installation technology

Window installation begins with inserting a prepared frame or the entire window into the niche. Before this, it is necessary to lay bars or plastic corners. They will help ensure the required minimum clearance.

The frame is aligned vertically and horizontally, as well as relative to the center of the niche. This is easy to do by moving these very corners.

Spacer wedges or angles are best placed under the frame mounting points.

This will give it additional rigidity and thereby protect it from deformation at the time of fastening.

Since the installation of PVC windows may differ in the fastening devices used, the installation technology will also be different. And the differences begin with the next step:

1. If the opening is made of wood, then further installation involves screwing a self-tapping screw through a pre-drilled hole in the frame. The self-tapping screw is not screwed in completely, but only so as to slightly “bait” it.
2. On concrete or brick walls, marks are placed through the same holes. Then the frame is removed, and holes for anchor bolts or dowels are drilled at the marks. The frame is then installed in its original place and secured with anchors, but not completely.
3. In the case when fastening is carried out using anchor plates, they simply need to be bent so that they touch both the opening and the frame in the right place.

After preliminary installation, you need to check the verticality and horizontality of the installed frame again. This can be done using a conventional construction hydraulic level or a plumb line.

After checking, the frame is completely secured. At the same time, the anchors are not tightened too much. The final tightening time is determined by the moment when the head of the anchor is aligned with the plane of the frame. Some builders even recommend leaving 1 mm.

Then you should attach all the window parts dismantled at the preparatory stage, that is, glass or sashes. After installation they should be adjusted.

All gaps between the window and the opening are filled with foam. A situation often arises when the window is so smaller than the opening that there is a gap between them that is larger than necessary. If this gap does not exceed 4 cm, then it can be completely filled with polyurethane foam. If the gap is from 4 to 7 cm, then it is recommended to fill it with polystyrene foam, securing it with polyurethane foam.

When the gap is more than 7 cm (except as specified below), it is required to fill it with boards, bricks or other similar materials. Cement mortar will also work.

The ebb is installed on foam. Additionally, it is attached with self-tapping screws to this profile, if it was used, or to wooden blocks.

The ebb tide is installed with an inclination away from the window.

After the foam has dried, you can begin installing the window sill. It starts under the “clover” by 2 cm. It must be said that window sills are not installed strictly horizontally. This is done to prevent moisture from accumulating on their surface. In order to create a slope of the window sill, it is also installed on polyurethane foam.

After all installation steps have been completed, the window should not be touched for another 16-20 hours. This is necessary in order not to violate the integrity of all gaps, that is, not to displace the product relative to its original position.

Nowadays, the trend of replacing old wooden windows with plastic ones is becoming more and more common. Such windows have a number of advantages that significantly distinguish them from their competitors. As a rule, window installation is carried out with the help of specialists who will cope with the task in a matter of hours. However, fast does not always mean good. Sometimes, in a hurry, craftsmen forget about various little things that they later have to finish on their own. To avoid such “professional” installation, you can install plastic windows yourself. The main thing is to write down a clear action plan and follow all its points.

Window measurements

The first step is to measure the width and height of the window opening. Width is the distance between the internal parts of the wall - the slopes. Height – distance between upper slope and a window sill. Based on the obtained dimensions, you can calculate the size of the window. You need to subtract 3 cm from the resulting width (1.5 cm of gap on each side). You need to subtract 5 cm from the height (1.5 cm for the gap at the top and 3.5 cm for installing the window sill).

The size of the window sill and external ebb is calculated taking into account a gap of 5-10 cm. During installation, both the window sill and ebb are “recessed” into the window opening. The width of the window sill should be such that it does not overlap the heating radiator by more than 1/3. Measurements of slopes are carried out immediately after the installation of windows, since it is quite difficult to determine their size in advance.

Material selection

The selection of plastic windows is carried out according to several criteria at once. First, you need to decide on the principle of fastening the frame. It comes in two types:

• through the frame in the packaging plane;
• using pre-installed support reinforcement.

The first installation option is considered more reliable, but at the same time more complex. The principle is to unpack the window. The glass is removed from the frame. The frame is then inserted into the opening and secured to the wall using anchors. Double-glazed windows are reinserted into the finished frame. This method allows you to strengthen window design, however, during installation the risk of damaging the glass increases.

The second method is to install the windows without first unpacking them. In this case, metal plates are pre-attached to the window frame, with the help of which the window is mounted in the opening. This method is quite simple, but the reliability is significantly lower compared to the first option.

Another criterion when choosing plastic windows is the quality of the material. First, pay attention to the reinforcing profile, which serves as the basis of any window. It must be made exclusively of galvanized steel. If the window is made using a different metal, then later it will become covered with rust and red streaks will appear on the window.

No less important is the choice of the double-glazed window itself. For unheated premises You can choose a single-chamber package; for an apartment, house or office it is better to give the premises to two- or three-chamber models. The glass itself can be either plain or with infrared coating. Infrared glass, by the way, will be an excellent solution for windows facing east. Infrared rays can reflect heat, so even on the hottest summer days the room will be comfortable.

Preparatory work before installation

Before installing a new window, you need to dismantle the old one. This is done in stages. First from window frame remove the glass, having first used a chisel to pry the glazing beads that hold it in place. If this is not done during installation, the glass may break and injure you. Next you need to cut the frame. This can be done using regular saw, and with the use of an angle grinder. However, it is worth remembering that the grinder can only be used if there is diamond blade or disc for concrete. To avoid injury, it is strictly forbidden to use discs on wood and metal. Having cut the frame into pieces, you can begin to dismantle it, armed with a hammer drill, crowbar or nail puller.

The next step is to remove the old window sill and flashing. If they are wooden, then the same principle is used for dismantling as for the frame. The window sill or ebb needs to be cut into several parts and pulled out one by one. With a concrete window sill, things are somewhat more complicated. It can only be removed by first breaking it into pieces using a jackhammer.

Having gotten rid of the old window, you can start finishing preparatory work. The window opening must be thoroughly cleaned of construction dust and debris generated during the dismantling process. This can be done using a regular vacuum cleaner. It is also worth removing the remnants of old insulation and polyurethane foam.

After all the work carried out, the surface of the window opening must be treated with a primer. Next, a so-called stand profile is installed at the bottom of the future window, to which the glass unit itself will be attached in the future. The profile is secured using polyurethane foam.

Window installation

If to install plastic window If the method of unpacking the glass unit was chosen, the process will proceed as follows. The first step is to remove the glass from the window frame. To do this, carefully remove one by one all the glazing beads that hold the glass in place. Then the glass is smoothly removed from the frame at a slight angle. After unpacking the double-glazed window, it is better to immediately remove the glass to another room so as not to damage it during installation of the frame.

To begin with, the window frame must be installed on pre-prepared wooden wedges. This is necessary so that the frame initially takes the desired position and does not move during installation.

Armed with a drill, holes are made in the frame for anchors (three holes on each side). After drilling all the holes, you should make sure that the frame has not moved. To do this, you can use a plumb line and laser level. It is better not to use a traditional bubble level, as it does not provide the most accurate measurements.

After making sure that all indicators are normal, you can attach the window with anchors. To do this, using a hammer drill at the level of the holes already existing in the frame, you need to make similar holes in the wall, at least 6 cm deep. Next, the anchors are fastened, starting from the bottom row. After each anchor is attached, the evenness of the window is rechecked.

At the stage of mounting the window frame, the ebb and flow is installed. It is attached to the stand profile, which was pre-installed under the frame. The edges of the ebb need to be “recessed” a little into the wall, after making holes in it. At the end of installation, all existing joints and cracks on the outside of the window are sealed with sealant.

Having completed all the above manipulations, glass can be inserted into the frame.

Installation of a plastic window without unpacking is carried out according to a similar principle. The only difference in this process is that the package in this case is not disassembled, but mounted completely. The window structure is fastened without the use of anchors, but with the help of special plates.

Just as in the first case, the double-glazed window is installed on a pre-prepared support profile and wooden wedges. The window is then leveled and checked with a level. TO window profile plates are screwed with self-tapping screws durable metal. They can be linear or U-shaped. The distance between the plates should not exceed 7 cm.

The plates have so-called tails with holes for anchors. During installation, the tails must be bent and pressed tightly against the wall. A dowel is inserted into the existing hole and mounted into the wall using a drill. In this case, the anchors are fastened from bottom to top. At each stage of screwing in the dowels, the window undergoes a leveling check.

Window sill installation

Installation of a metal-plastic window sill begins with cutting it. The shape of the window sill should be such that it easily fits into the side openings and at the same time is in close contact with the lining profile. Between the side walls window box and the window sill you need to leave a small gap (about 1 cm) which will later be closed by slopes.

Having placed the window sill in the desired way, you can begin to fasten it. To do this, several wooden wedges are inserted under the window sill, which will protect it from moving. Then the space formed under it is filled with polyurethane foam or cement mortar. In this case, you need to put some kind of weight on the window sill itself to create a slight slope. This manipulation is necessary to drain condensate.

When the foam or mortar has hardened, the window sill is attached to the window frame. This is done using self-tapping screws on the inside.

Slopes

Design of slopes is the final stage of installation metal-plastic windows. They can be made either using drywall or using PVC panels.

Drywall slopes are beneficial in cases where the surface of the inside of the window opening cannot be leveled. Such slopes are made as follows:

• a special L-shaped profile is attached along the edge of the window frame;
• the inside of the profile is filled with sealant;
• pre-prepared strips of drywall are inserted into the grooves of the profile;
• the empty space between the wall and the drywall is filled with mineral wool;
• The places where the slopes come into contact with the wall are lubricated with glue.

Slopes made of PVC panels are somewhat easier to install, but they should only be used on perfectly flat surfaces. This is done like this:

• strips of the required size are cut from PVC panels;
• with help liquid nails the workpieces are attached to the working surface;
• the ends and joints between the slopes are closed with special plastic corners.

Plastic windows deservedly enjoy a reputation for functional, reliable, durable and aesthetic designs. They are becoming more and more popular and are confidently replacing the wooden windows that are familiar to many people.

Plastic windows have gained a reputation as strong, durable and reliable structures.

To their additional benefits It can be attributed to the fact that, with a strong desire, almost anyone can install plastic windows on their own. And this is a big plus, because... For installation, specialists ask quite a lot of money. In addition, having figured out how to install a plastic window, you will independently control the entire process and will be able to do everything in accordance with technology.

How to determine the size of a future plastic window

Before ordering plastic windows, you need to figure out what exactly the design should be. And this one begins preparatory stage from taking measurements. At independent execution measurements House master should know that there are window openings without a quarter and with it. The procedure for measuring the openings of two different types will also vary.

The quarter option involves taking measurements in the following order. First you need to measure the opening between the quarters at the narrowest point and add 3-4 cm to the resulting value. This will be the width of the structure. Additionally, make sure that the specified width of the future plastic window exceeds the largest distance between the vertical quarters. To determine the height of the future window, measure the distance between the bottom plane of the opening and the top horizontal quarter. This way you will determine the amount you need.

In the case when a plastic window is installed in an opening without the above-mentioned quarter, to determine the appropriate size, you simply need to subtract 5 cm from the height, and 3 cm from the width.

Additionally, determine what size the window sill and flashing should be if you plan to replace them. There should be no complications with this operation, you just need to consider the following important factors.

When determining the width of the ebb, future thermal insulation or cladding must be taken into account. According to standards, the ebb should protrude from the vertical wall by 5-10 cm. The width of the window sill is calculated taking into account its future functional purpose. For example, if you want to install potted flowers on it, it is better to order a wider design. In most cases, when selecting a window sill, the calculation is carried out so that the free part of this element covers the heating radiators.

The length of the window sill should be 8-10 cm greater than the width of the opening. The edges must be recessed into the slope cavity by at least 5 cm.

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Ordering a window and preparing for work

On next stage It is necessary to send the obtained measurements to a company specializing in the production of plastic windows. By the way, if you don’t want to waste time on measurements or doubt that you can do everything correctly, order this service from the same company. Most companies offer it free of charge, provided that the window is ordered from them.

In addition to the window size, you need to determine the following parameters:

1. The number of cameras in a double-glazed window.
2. Number of cameras in the window profile.
3. Availability of fittings and necessary fasteners.

The consultant will tell you in detail about the features of each option. You can prepare in advance. So, if winters in your region are not very cold, and the street outside the window is not very noisy, a window with two glasses and a profile 60 mm wide will be quite sufficient. Next, focus on the climate and environment.

For self-installation plastic window you will need the following:

To install windows you will need: a hammer, a drill, a screwdriver, building level etc.

1. A gun for polyurethane foam and the foam itself.
2. Drill with variable speed control and perforation mode.
3. Small ax and hammer.
4. Metal scissors.
5. A sharp knife, a stationery knife will do.
6. Building level.
7. Chisel.
8. Sander.
9. Nail puller.
10. Jigsaw. If you don't have one, you can use a hacksaw with fine teeth.
11. Putty knife.

Additional materials you can buy:

1. Multi-purpose construction adhesive.
2. Wooden beam with a total length of 150-200 cm and dimensions of 2x4 cm.
3. Dowels.
4. Plastic corners and panels made of the same material.
5. Self-tapping screws different sizes. Typically used are 6x40, 2x16, 2x80.
6. Solvents.
7. Mix for plaster.
8. Silicate glue.

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Do-it-yourself dismantling of an old window

Actually initial stage To replace windows, it is necessary to dismantle the old window structure.

If there are already windows installed in the room, then before you begin installing a new window, you need to get rid of the existing structure. If you don’t plan to install the old window anywhere in the future, you don’t have to try to be careful, but caution won’t hurt. Do everything possible to avoid getting hurt or dropping the window outside. The last rule is especially relevant for apartments in multi-storey buildings, because a window could fall on someone or damage someone else's property. And even in a private house, cleaning glass will not give you any pleasure.

First, remove the opening windows and sashes. Remove all glass from the structure, first removing the retaining beads. Take a grinder with a concrete wheel or a hacksaw. Using the tool, make cuts along the horizontal and vertical elements of the window frame.

Using available tools - a pry bar, a crowbar, or a hammer - remove the product from the opening. In some cases, when the owner wants to preserve the old window, the structure can be removed without deformation or damage. But this will require much more time and certain skills.

At this stage, both the external ebb and the window sill are dismantled. At the end, the window opening is thoroughly cleaned of dust and all kinds of construction debris.

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Step-by-step instructions for installing a plastic window

Gradually you have come to the main stage of the work - installing a new window. This work requires careful and consistent implementation of a whole list of various activities.

First, the window is prepared for further installation. At this stage, you need to attach mounting plates to the end of the top and sides of the frame. In the future, it is thanks to them that the structure will be held in the required position. Quite often, installers replace plates with hangers, which are usually used when installing various plasterboard structures. But when installing a plastic window, it is much more advisable to use plates. They are stronger than pendants.

The planks must be securely fixed to the end of the frame. When installing, the fasteners will need to fit into the body metal profile block. And this should be done in such a way that the glass unit does not deform. Fastening is done using self-tapping screws. Select the diameter of these products taking into account the size of the window. Standard-sized structures are usually installed using self-tapping screws with a diameter of 4 mm. For larger blocks (from 2x2 m), it is best to use larger self-tapping screws - 5-6 mm in diameter.

Attaching the anchor strips to the end of the frame should be done so that they are installed in increments of 6-8 cm at a distance of 10-15 cm from the corners of the product.

After this, you need to correctly position the prepared window structure. At a superficial glance, this procedure may seem quite simple, but take it seriously. It is best to enlist the help of an assistant at this stage. One of you will support the block, and the other will level it.

Place the block in the opening and adjust its position using pre-prepared wedges. It is important to position the block strictly vertically and horizontally. At this stage, follow the recommendations:

1. Wedge the module not only from below, but also from the sides.
2. Make sure that all vertical frame elements are in the same plane.
3. If there is an impost, place wedges under it as well.

Check that the unit is installed evenly using a level. If there are the slightest deviations, correct them. And only after that proceed to fixing the module. To do this using anchor bolts or dowels, secure the anchor plates to the opening cavity. It is important that the elements are attached strictly to the enclosing structures. To do this, it may be necessary to remove a layer of plaster where the anchor plates are attached.

After you securely fix the module, seal the seams using foam specially designed for this job. It is important that the material is intended specifically for the installation of plastic windows. Carefully read the instructions and make sure that it can be used at the humidity and temperature where the module is installed.

Before applying foam, moisten the joint surface with water. If you need to fill an area wider than 3 cm, do it in 2 stages with a half-hour break.

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