When building houses made of wood, it was always necessary to take into account many technological features, but the main one is the inconstancy of the sizes of wooden building elements– creates problems not only at the stage of building a house, but also during its operation. One of the consequences of shrinkage - distortions between the logs of a log house - leads to the fact that already two to three years after the completion of construction it is necessary to think about how to insulate the corners of a house made of timber.
If earlier this problem was classified as “additional”, today its relevance has increased significantly, since the use of new types of lumber is often accompanied by errors when assembling corner joints.
This review examines several basic methods of sealing corners, knowledge of which will help protect your new home from premature destruction.
What is shrinkage wooden log house, why it happens, and what its consequences are, we discussed in our other articles. Let us recall here that any wooden structure in its life cycle passes several key “time marks” after which its internal geometry changes significantly.
These marks are:
- primary shrinkage (1-1.5 years after the frame is assembled);
- drying out the living period (after 1-2 heating seasons);
- wear of the seal (10-15 years after the last caulking).
After each of these periods, the sealing of the crown joints in a wooden house is broken and the “environmentally friendly” home turns into a drafty building.
In addition, the warm air inside the room has a higher pressure, therefore, if the insulating seams are broken, the effect of barometric exfiltration occurs, as a result of which a stable effect of cold floors is created in the house, even in cases where heating system working at full capacity.
Besides natural causes, the integrity of the inter-crown joints is greatly influenced by the assembly scheme of the log house.
There are usually three assembly options:
- laying in a bowl, associated with the Russian style of wooden architecture;
- claw assembly, popular in European and American countries.
Differences between chopping in a paw and in a bowl
Separately, we note that the design internal corners log house is not the only difference between the technologies for building houses from logs and timber. One of the ways to increase the reliability of wooden buildings is the so-called “Scandinavian felling”, in which more efficient closure of the crowns occurs thanks to a wedge lock between the crowns.
The difference between Russian and Scandinavian cutting
It is noteworthy that attempts to automate construction works only aggravate this problem. The figure below clearly shows how the machine-shaped bowls were deformed to such an extent that centimeter-long cracks appeared in the frame.
Gaps in a log house with machine-cut bowls
Considering all of the above, we can conclude that the construction wooden house- the process is continuous and requires periodic correction of the basic load-bearing structures and updating of the insulation.
Seal problem
Angle thermogram
Let us immediately emphasize that the problem of thermal insulation of crown joints is by no means new and has been successfully solved by builders over the past millennia. All modern techniques are simply a replacement for archaic ones building materials to their modern analogues.
Despite the fact that during shrinkage the entire frame is deformed, the main channel of heat loss is still the corner joints, so finishing the corners of the frame is often considered as a separately paid operation.
Let's consider what methods exist for insulating corners, and how you can sew up roof joints.
Re-caulking
The most ancient way to restore the heat-insulating properties of a house is to re-caulk all joints both outside and inside the building. The same material that was laid during the construction of the log house is used as insulation. Despite the enormous labor intensity, this method is the cheapest option for restoring the heat-insulating properties of a house.
More modern version caulking involves the use of jute ropes and ropes, which significantly speeds up the process, but reduces the reliability of holding the insulation in the gap.
Creating wedge joints
This method is applicable only at the construction stage. It consists in a more careful implementation of the joints between the crowns, the locks of which have a wedge-shaped configuration.
Scandinavian-Canadian wedge
The recess inside the log is filled with a sealant with a maximum service life (for example, mineral wool), and the edges are sheathed with a closing sealant.
Polymer sealing
Polymer sealing scheme
The most effective and fastest way to insulate houses made of profiled timber and logs is polymer sealing.
The peculiarity of this technology is that if it is performed correctly, you can forever forget about the consequences of shrinkage, since the seam is filled elastic sealant with a high adhesion coefficient.
When the logs shrink and shift, the new seal is deformed but not destroyed.
The only problem this method – high price sealant resistant to climatic factors.
As an alternative, a combined approach is used, when the main volume of the insulated gap is filled with ordinary (i.e., inexpensive) acrylic sealant, and the outer protective layer formed from a stable special composition.
Let us emphasize once again that shrinkage deformations primarily manifest themselves in corner joints, so re-insulation is often performed only for corners. This is much cheaper, but does not fit well into the design of a log or timber house.
In such cases, the repaired log house can be covered with cladding made of boards, the fixation of which must be carried out taking into account shrinkage displacements.
Wind protection of the facade
Sometimes the deformation of a log house is at such a stage that sealing the joints alone is not enough to normalize the heat balance of the house. In such cases, external wind protection is installed in the form of additional facade cladding.
This design uses the “ventilated facade” technology, and for exterior finishing a block house or clapboard is used.
Internal thermal insulation
Any sealant that can be used to seal seams in a wooden house is very critical to large differences humidity and temperature. Therefore, in baths and saunas, in addition to all the methods listed above, internal thermal and vapor insulation is installed, which can be made either in a standard multi-layer method or using a simplified technology - from penofol.
This approach not only extends the overall period of normal operation of the log house, but also increases the energy efficiency of the house.
The Master Srubov company will perform decorative and protective finishing of log and timber houses, including the installation of additional thermal insulation. Clarify the details of cooperation and calculate the cost necessary work You can use any method of communication published on the “Contacts” page.
The thermal insulation characteristics of timber with a cross section of 150x150 are not sufficient to ensure comfortable living in a house in cold weather. winter period. In this regard, the owners of such a building inevitably ask the question: how and with what to insulate the house? According to the rules of heating engineering, external insulation is much more effective than internal insulation. Therefore, first of all, you need to worry about choosing the optimal thermal insulation material for specific conditions, suitable for use outside the house, and find out all the nuances of installation.
Insulation of a house made of timber from the outside
Preparing the walls of the house
At the stage of preparation for external insulation of a wooden building, it is necessary to resolve several issues:
- which insulation is better;
- how to lay it correctly;
- how to prepare the walls of a house.
Regardless of which thermal insulation material is chosen, walls made of 150x150 timber need to be prepared. First of all, it is necessary to conduct a visual inspection and make sure that there are no signs of wood rotting, insects harmful to wood, or the need for additional fastening of timber and finishing elements of window and door openings.
The photo shows a house made of timber before insulation.
At the same time they decide whether the walls need caulking. If empty cracks are noticed, then they need to be filled with appropriate material before laying the insulation. Caulking walls is a simple, but labor-intensive process. Knowing the rules and tricks of this matter will greatly simplify its implementation.
What is wall caulking?
To eliminate gaps between beams, three materials are traditionally used:
- tow;
- jute;
- flax wool, etc.
Overview of materials for caulking
During their work, craftsmen use special wooden fixtures in the form of blades with a thin blade. But for self-execution An ordinary narrow spatula will do the job.
- laying stretched insulation;
- laying insulation into the set.
The first is optimal if the gaps are not wide, the second is suitable for deep and long gaps. When caulking, the stretched tow fibers are distributed along the crack in an even thin layer, while driving it into the gap with a spatula. The work must be done slowly and carefully, trying to seal the insulation as efficiently as possible. The tow is driven in layer by layer until the gap is filled.
Laying in a set is done as follows: bunches or balls of tow are formed from the tow, corresponding to the size of the gap, and driven into it using a spatula and a hammer. Regardless of the chosen caulking method, work begins from the bottom of the wall.
Methods for caulking a wooden house
Video - How to caulk a house made of timber
Video - Caulking a house made of timber
The choice of material for external insulation of a house made of 150x150 timber
The modern market offers many solutions for insulating a wooden house. The choice largely depends on the climatic conditions of the region of residence. For southern latitudes, one insulation will be optimal, for northern latitudes, another. Therefore, when choosing a material, they are guided by its main characteristics:
- coefficient of thermal conductivity;
- compressive strength indicator;
- frost resistance;
- service life guaranteed by the manufacturer.
Main characteristics thermal insulation materials
For external insulation For houses made of 150x150 timber, the following thermal insulation materials are suitable:
- fibrous (glass wool, mineral wool, stone wool, basalt wool);
- sheet foam;
- foamed polyethylene;
- sprayed polyurethane foam;
- windproof boards Izoplat.
Comparison of insulation materials
Materials for home insulation
Mineral wool and its analogues
Mineral wool has excellent thermal insulation characteristics, but has one significant drawback: hygroscopicity. Since wet insulation is not capable of retaining heat efficiently, the use mineral wool in rolls or slabs requires steam and waterproofing of the walls and foundation of the house. This significantly increases the cost of its external insulation.
Mineral wool, roll
When choosing fibrous materials the following points must be taken into account:
- air humidity level in the region of residence;
- option for cladding the external walls of a building.
Mineral wool slabs
The second requirement is due to the fact that laying mineral wool and its analogues requires wall cladding using ventilated facade technology. Therefore, you won’t be able to save on finishing work. If there is any doubt that the mineral wool under the cladding will remain dry, it is better not to use this material.
Minvata. Technical characteristics of insulation
Styrofoam
There are many myths regarding this insulation. One of them convinces us that polystyrene foam releases styrene, which is harmful to humans, into the environment. All these claims have long been debunked by laboratory studies. The safety of polystyrene foam is confirmed by the sanitary and epidemiological conclusion 63.01.06.224.P.001216.04.03 dated April 7, 2003, Conclusion 01-188 dated 04/25/00 of the Research Institute of Hygiene and Health of Children and Adolescents of the Russian Academy of Medical Sciences, Conclusion No. 03/PM8 of the Moscow Research Institute of Hygiene. . F.F. Erisman. That's why this insulation can be safely used not only for external purposes, but also for internal insulation.
Styrofoam
When choosing polystyrene foam, it is important to pay attention to its density. The higher it is, the lower its thermal conductivity. There is an opinion that the density of polystyrene foam corresponds to the digital indicator of its brand. But this is only partly correct. For example, the density of C-25 foam varies between 15.1-25 kg/m3. The table of its characteristics will provide significant assistance in choosing a material.
Foam plastic PSB-S-25
For external insulation of a house made of 150x150 timber, you can use polystyrene foam of any brand. Manufacturers offer sheets of different thicknesses: 5 cm and 10 cm. When choosing a material, you need to take into account that for facade insulation it is better to buy PSB-S-35 foam plastic 5 cm thick than PSB-S-25 foam plastic 10 cm thick. The cost of these materials almost the same, but the thermal insulation effect will be more significant.
Comparative characteristics of polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam
Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS)
EPS has almost the same chemical composition as polystyrene foam, but has lower thermal conductivity, higher flexural strength, and lower water absorption. The significant difference in characteristics is due to the production methods of these materials.
EPPS can be operated in a temperature range of -50°C to +75°C
EPPS is ideal for external insulation of a house made of 150x150 timber. The only disadvantage of this material is its relatively high price. A 2 cm thick extruded polystyrene board is comparable in thermal conductivity to a 3 cm thick sheet of foam plastic and a 4 cm thick layer of mineral wool.
Expanded polystyrene "Technoplex"
Extruded polystyrene foam
Eps can be glued to the walls of a building, but you need to choose the right adhesive. For styrene-based materials (EPS and foam), the following compounds cannot be used:
- based on acetone and any solvents;
- petroleum toluene;
- water based;
- ethyl acetate.
- adhesive foam "TechnoNIKOL";
Adhesive foam "TechnoNIKOL"
- Ceresit CT 85;
- ALLFIX facade adhesive;
- BITUMAST;
- polyurethane adhesive Illbruck PU 010;
- "Insta-Stick universal-145345."
Foamed polyethylene
This material has long proven in practice its suitability for thermal insulation.
Foamed polyethylene
Foamed polyethylene has many advantages. Among them:
- low thermal conductivity coefficient;
- elasticity;
- a light weight;
- low cost.
When choosing this material, you should know that it comes in two types: LDPE (high pressure) and HDPE (low pressure). Products made of foamed polyethylene come with one-sided and double-sided foil.
Foamed polyethylene mats, duplicated, laminated with foil
The most popular are the following:
- "Vilatherm" - thermal insulation harness;
- “Thermopol” (available in the form of mats 1.5-4 cm thick);
- "Penofol" with one-sided and double-sided foil.
Types of penofol
Materials made from foamed polyethylene are advantageous in that they do not require a vapor and waterproofing layer. This is due to their absolute non-hygroscopicity. Therefore, when covering the external walls of a building with foamed polyethylene, you can save a lot.
Spray polyurethane foam
Sprayed polyurethane foam differs from the above materials not only in the installation method.
Spray insulation
It has many other advantages:
- extremely low thermal conductivity: 0.023 - 0.03 W/m*K (this is significantly lower than that of mineral wool and foam);
- environmentally friendly;
- does not require vapor and waterproofing;
- there is no need for additional fastening of the heat insulator, as the foam, when applied, firmly adheres to the wall;
- when applied, it forms a continuous layer, eliminating the possibility of the appearance of cold bridges.
Spraying of heat insulator
All this makes sprayed polyurethane foam the best material for external insulation of a house made of 150x150 timber. The only drawback of this method is its high cost. Spraying polyurethane foam requires not only special equipment and skills to work with it. Therefore, you will have to pay not only for the material, but also for the services of specialists.
Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the outside with polyurethane foam
Windproof boards Isoplat based on wood fiber
Scandinavian windproof boards are made from softwood fiber and are 100% natural thermal insulation material. No chemical binders, glue or resins are used in their production. In this case, a slab with a thickness of 12 mm is equal in thermal insulation to 44 mm of wood.
Windproof plate Izoplat
The main advantages of Izoplat windproof boards:
- Tightness. Due to their elasticity, the slabs fit tightly to the walls, and breaks in the windproof layer are excluded.
- Thermal insulation. It will not shrink during its entire service life and guarantees reliable insulation of the house throughout its service life. Coefficient. thermal conductivity of the material λ10 ≤ 0.045 W/mK
- Vapor permeability. The slab is a “breathable” material, due to which excess moisture leaves the house and mold and mildew do not form in the walls.
- Resistance to atmospheric moisture. The stove is impregnated with paraffin, due to which it is not afraid of any precipitation, dampness or temperature changes.
- Soundproofing. Windproof plate even minimum thickness will provide sound insulation of about -23 dB.
- Simple and quick installation. The size of the slabs is 2700x1200x12 mm, weight is only 9 kg.
- Guaranteed service life of more than 50 years. Actual use over 70 years.
- Eco-friendly and natural, 100% like wood itself.
A house covered with Isoplat slabs with partial installation of the facade.
Nailed Isoplat plate
Rules for external insulation of a wooden house
The walls of a wooden house are built from a very hygroscopic material. Wood can absorb moisture and at the same time become deformed. Although construction timber has a low humidity coefficient, environmental influences inevitably change this indicator. Therefore, in wooden houses you can observe deformation of the walls. It is insignificant, but inevitably affects geometric shape window and door openings.
When externally insulating a house made of 150x150 timber, it is necessary to take into account that a ventilation gap is required through which moisture will escape from the wood. Thus, no harm will be caused to the walls. It is necessary to build a facing layer over the insulation laid on the outside of the building. That's why best technology insulation of a house made of timber - installation of a ventilated facade.
His circuit diagram includes installation of several layers of materials (direction from wall to street):
- wall;
- lathing (frame);
- heat insulator;
- vapor barrier membrane;
- ventilation gap;
- facing material.
Approximate diagram of a ventilation façade
Ventilated facade
Ventilated facade for a log or timber house
Regardless of what kind of insulation is used, it is necessary to follow the order of laying the materials and do not forget that there must be a gap of at least 1 cm wide between the heat insulator and the cladding.
Installation of a ventilated facade, installation of lathing and insulation
We make a ventilation façade with our own hands
Step 1: installation of spacers
To install spacer strips, use bars with a cross section of 20/20 mm or edged board 20-25 mm thick. To fasten wood, nails or wood screws are used. Optimal step- 60-80 cm.
Scheme of an insulated facade
Step 2: installation of vapor barrier membrane
Vapor barrier film is sold in rolls. Laying the canvases begins from the bottom of the wall and gradually moves upward. The vapor barrier is secured with a construction stapler with an overlap of 10-15 cm.
Step 3: installation of the sheathing
The same material is used as for the installation of the 1st tier: bars or boards, but the thickness of the lumber should be different: 5-10 cm and correspond to the thickness of the selected insulation. Boards (bars) are attached not horizontally, but vertically. It is important to take into account that the distance between the sheathing posts must correspond to the width of the insulation.
Installation of a ventilated façade frame
Example of fastening a wooden frame with corners
Step 4: laying insulation
Mineral wool sheets or foam sheets are placed in the space between the posts of the 2nd tier of the sheathing. They are attached to the wall of the house using plastic dowels with a wide dish-shaped cap.
Fixed insulation
Step 5: installation of windproof membrane
The windproof film is laid in the same way as the vapor barrier film. It is attached to the sheathing using counter-battens.
The diagram shows a windproof membrane and siding mounted on top of it
Installation of a ventilated facade with plastic siding
Step 6: installation of facing material
The following can be used as finishing material:
- metal or vinyl siding;
- facade cement-bonded panels;
- lining.
Brick-like facade panels
High-quality external insulation of a house made of 150x150 timber will provide a comfortable microclimate in residential premises and will reduce the cost of heating the building.
Video - How to insulate a house made of timber from the outside
Video - Insulating a house with mineral wool
Houses made of timber, due to their environmental friendliness, are a popular option for private construction. But although they heat up quickly enough and have good thermal insulation properties, insulation of a timber house is urgent need for most households.
Installation of insulation on the walls of a timber house
Differences between old and new technologies
Wooden construction in Rus' is a centuries-old tradition. For centuries, houses were built exclusively from log houses, from massive round and semicircular logs, the thickness of which was sufficient for good thermal insulation. Just like today, the tree dried out over time, and cracks appeared between the logs. But earlier there were other ideas about the beauty of the facade, so ordinary wood moss was used to caulk cracks. It landed in the cracks between the logs and over time reliably filled the entire space between them.
IN modern construction issues of economy come to the fore and force the use of timber, the thickness of which does not always meet the requirements of the developed standards. If the cross-section is insufficient, complete freezing occurs in winter, which means that the walls of the house are not able to retain heat. In addition, over time, the wood begins to dry out, causing heat loss to increase even more.
This is what a timber wall looks like after the wood has dried
Advantages and disadvantages of wall insulation in a log house
Thrifty owners are looking for ways to properly insulate a house made of timber so that they can spend less money on heating in winter. This can be done in two main ways: from the inside and from the outside, and external insulation is preferable for a number of reasons.
Features of insulation from the inside
With internal insulation, the positive effect of heat saving is offset by the disadvantages:
Part of the usable area is inevitably lost due to the installation of a frame under the insulation.
The thermal insulation layer hides the “living” wooden walls and the rooms lose their unique charm.
Due to external winter cooling of an unprotected wooden wall, the dew point moves into the internal insulation. Condensation occurs, mold appears, and it is difficult to control the condition of the wood.
What happens to the wall if the insulation is not properly insulated from the inside - in the video:
Insulation of walls from the outside: advantages and disadvantages of the method
Most often they resort to it, keeping in mind the obvious advantages compared to internal insulation:
The usable area of the internal space is preserved;
External work does not change the family's daily routine.
The facade of the house is reliably protected from sudden temperature changes, which extends the life of the building.
The correct selection of materials does not disturb the microclimate of the rooms (the house “breathes”).
You can design the façade to your liking or improve it appearance if the wood has darkened over time.
If the technology is followed, the wood will be additionally protected from damage.
Ease of monitoring the work of the construction team.
The main disadvantage of external insulation is the need to carry it out in good weather; in cold and damp weather there is no point in doing this.
Three main insulation methods
Any insulation of walls involves attaching a layer of insulation and structures holding it to it. Several methods have been developed for this purpose and each of them has its own advantages and implementation features.
The principle of wall insulation is the creation of an additional protective “pie”
Hinged ventilated facade
This technology itself was developed as a decoration for the facade of a house, but since the installation procedure involves attaching a layer of mineral wool or a similar material to the wall, this method can be considered as insulation.
Advantages of using ventilated facades:
Long service life (up to 50 years), excellent heat and sound insulation.
Easy to install.
Wide selection of facing materials in various colors.
The dew point moves outward.
Installation technology:
Pre-treatment of lumber is carried out with compounds that prevent rotting and make the tree unattractive to insects.
A sheathing is attached to the outside of the house, onto which a sheet of hydro- and wind protection is placed. Air circulates freely in the space between the sheathing slats, due to which condensation or moisture that appears in other ways will be removed from the insulation.
The sheathing is leveled with a plumb level.
Next, slats are placed on the sheathing, the distance between which should correspond to the width of the heat insulator. The height of the slats is selected accordingly - for middle zone In Russia it is recommended to use insulation with a thickness of at least 70 mm.
A feature of the ventilated facade is that a gap is left between the insulation and the cladding
Insulation mats are placed between the slats, secured with dowels.
Then bars with a thickness of at least 5 cm are additionally stuffed onto the slats so that there is always a gap between the insulation and the cladding.
Cladding (siding) is installed.
Laying insulation under siding.
There are practically no fundamental differences from the previous technology - insulation is also used here and a decorative coating is also used on the outside. But if the very name of the ventilated facade indicates the place of its use, then in any case the entire house is covered with siding.
Installation nuances taking into account the selected material:
The distance between the slats is set equal to the width of the mat if foam or sheet extruded polystyrene foam is selected.
The distance between the slats is set to 10–15 mm less than the width of the mat if mineral wool is used. This must be taken into account when calculating the amount of mineral wool.
According to the technology, wool slabs are mounted by surprise; polymer slabs are placed in cells, the joints are treated with polyurethane foam.
When using mineral wool, a waterproofing layer (diffuse membrane) is additionally installed on top. It is not needed when using fiberglass or polystyrene.
Covering a log house with siding
Polyurethane foam spraying method
The principle of this technology is clear to anyone who has seen how they work with polyurethane foam. The difference here is that the volumes of material required to create a thermal insulation cushion are much larger, therefore, for processing polyurethane foam, a spray gun using compressed air from the compressor. Advantages of the technology:
Easy to use and high speed application of thermal insulation mixture on large surfaces.
Excellent adhesion (cohesion) with most building materials, long-term preservation of properties.
Environmental friendliness, fire resistance and protection against rotting of the treated surface.
Spraying of insulation can be done on any prepared surface
Types of insulation
The choice of insulation for outdoor work is quite wide and each of them has distinctive features that must be taken into account when choosing:
Mineral wool
Available in three varieties - stone (basalt), glass and slag. All have similar properties: fire-resistant, non-flammable, chemical and biological resistance. Other advantages of the material include vapor permeability, environmental friendliness and high sound insulation.
The downside is that cotton wool attracts rodents and does not dry completely when wet.
It all depends on the skills of the builders, but usually insulating the outside of a house with mineral wool is easier to do using mats than rolls - the latter are not always convenient to deploy on vertical walls.
Laying mineral wool slabs in lathing
Slab styrenes (foam plastic, polyurethane foam)
Foam plastic is the most cheap option, lightweight and porous, with low hygroscopicity and excellent thermal insulation. The main disadvantages are considered to be flammability (releases toxins when burned), fragility and instability when exposed to ultraviolet radiation.
Extruded polystyrene foam
It has a special porous structure, tolerates low temperatures well and is unsuitable for microorganisms. The material is durable, easy to install (slabs), and does not absorb water. Disadvantages: Highly flammable and releases harmful toxins.
Polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam are similar in appearance
Ecological sprayed styrene (ecowool and polyurethane foam)
Such insulation materials are expensive due to the method of application; To process large surfaces, special installation and operational experience are required. For small areas complex shape(cracks near pipes, windows, between slabs) polyurethane insulation in cylinders is offered.
"Warm" plaster
A mixture of light granules of complex composition (glass, cement and hydrophobic additives), which is not flammable, is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation, protects the facade well from moisture and is easy to repair.
Preparing a wooden structure for plastering in the video:
Subtleties of insulating timber walls
Insulating a log house from the outside under siding cannot be started whenever you want - before this, the following conditions must be met:
Work on installing insulation can begin only after the log frame has completely shrunk - often this period can be one and a half to two years.
It is prohibited to carry out work if the façade has not been treated with an antiseptic. Ignoring this rule will lead to the appearance of fungus and rot.
Before insulating a house made of timber from the outside, it is necessary to prepare the facade: seal not only wide cracks, but also small cracks. To do this, you can use putty, polyurethane foam or similar materials.
Good thermal insulation of a log house requires careful selection of material and calculation of its quantity. It is necessary to consider how the thermal insulation material will be combined with the wood of the timber itself.
To choose the right insulation, you need to take into account the size of the building, the quality of the frame and seams.
Some insulation is installed without sheathing
Tools and materials for thermal insulation of buildings
To insulate a house without being distracted by searching for tools and materials, builders need to prepare the following:
bubble or laser building level, you can also use a plumb line;
tape measure, square or metal ruler;
hammer, construction knife or hacksaw, screwdriver;
facade dowels, tape, chalk, polyurethane foam, antiseptic;
dry slats, insulation;
vapor and waterproofing film;
material for final cladding.
sprayer for treating wood with protective compounds
Treating a wooden wall with an antiseptic
General progress of thermal insulation installation
All steps for insulating a house made of timber using any of the described methods are always schematically the same and are performed in the following sequence:
to ventilate the first layer of insulation, a sheathing of wooden planks is mounted on the wall;
a frame is placed on the sheathing to fix the insulating material
installation of insulation;
installation of additional sheathing and frame (if double insulation is used);
laying an additional layer of heat insulation;
fastening a diffusion membrane, which will provide water and wind protection.
installation facade finishing(lining, siding) with an air gap.
In general, the insulation of a house made of timber, carried out according to the rules, will make it possible to save on heating in the future. Despite the apparent simplicity of the entire process, there are enough a large number of pitfalls that will definitely come out during installation. As a result, if you do not have the proper qualifications, then it is better to order the work to be carried out by professionals, because supervising the construction site is much more pleasant than climbing the walls yourself.
Standard timber section for frame house– 150 x 150 mm or 200 x 150 mm, and this is often not enough to support comfortable temperature in the house in winter due to the thickness of the building walls. Therefore, it is necessary to insulate a log house from the outside, and there are quite a lot of such technologies, as well as modern thermal insulation materials. It is considered an axiom that external insulation is much more effective than internal insulation, and this is true - the dew point moves to a safe place, the amount of condensation decreases, the walls continue to “breathe”, but continue to retain and retain heat in the premises of the house.
Scheme of standard external insulation of working external surfaces of a house
Preparatory work on external walls
Before you start insulating a house made of timber from the outside, you should choose from a range of materials for thermal insulation the one that is optimally suited for a house of a particular design, select the technology for laying it and prepare the surfaces of the walls.
Preparation of wooden beam walls comes down to visual inspection in order to detect cracks, pockets of mold and rot, peeling of bark islands, defects in the installation and fastening of doors and windows, etc. Then the walls are caulked or cracks are sealed (if they are found) in another way, for example, they are puttied with a special compound, the walls are treated with an antiseptic and fire-retardant substances. Caulking of the external wall is carried out using one of three well-known special heat insulators, which have proven themselves better than others - tow, flax (flax batting) and jute.
Push the insulation into the cracks with a special wooden spatula with a narrow and thin blade. If you don’t have such a spatula, a metal construction spatula with a blade length of 60, 80 or 120 mm will do.
Caulking of timber walls
There are two ways to caulk the walls: insulating the walls of a log house from the outside, stretched, and laying it in a set.
Stretched thermal insulation of surfaces is done in the presence of narrow gaps, and in a set - wide ones. In the first case, the ventilation facade insulation is stretched along the crack in a thin layer and driven in with caulk and a hammer until the space is completely filled. Laying into a set is carried out by forming balls of insulation from a wooden house to the size of the gap, then tow or jute is driven into the gap in the same way. Thermal insulation of a wooden house always starts from the bottom row.
When choosing a thermal insulation material, we take into account its performance characteristics:
- Thermal conductivity coefficient;
- Compressive strength coefficient;
- Frost resistance;
- The service life indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.
You can choose from the following list:
- Fibrous inorganic insulation - glass wool, mineral wool, stone or basalt wool;
- Polystyrene foam in slabs and sheets of different densities;
- Extruded polystyrene foam (EPP);
- Foamed polyethylene (FPE);
- Sprayed polyurethane foam (PPU);
- Izoplat boards are windproof.
Types of thermal insulation materials for external insulation of a house made of timber
Mineral wool and substitutes
Mineral wool is an excellent thermal insulator, but it is hygroscopic, and this disadvantage makes it a highly specialized material. Or, when insulating a log house with mineral wool, it is necessary to create additional layers of steam and waterproofing materials, so using mineral wool is not a cheap pleasure. When choosing to insulate a log house from the outside with your own hands using mineral wool, you should take into account the average annual air humidity in the region and the building materials with which the house is lined on the outside. Another requirement for mineral wool is that the house must have a ventilated façade.
Choose optimal material The table will help:
| Styrofoam | Polyurethane foam | Mineral wool | XPS plate |
| Cellular | Cellular and porous | Fibrous structure | Sealed cellular material |
| High moisture resistance | High moisture resistance | High moisture resistance | High moisture resistance |
| Light weight | Light weight | Light weight | Light weight |
| Density - medium | Density - low | Density - medium | Density - high |
| Compressive strength - low | Compressive strength - average | Compressive strength - high | |
| Eco-friendly material | Eco-friendly material, but at temperatures ≥ 500C it evaporates CO2 and CO3 | Eco-friendly material | Eco-friendly material |
| Limited suitability for mechanical stress | |||
| Destroys quickly over time | Takes a long time to break down | Durable material | Durable material |
| Destroyed under the sun | Doesn't break down under the sun | Doesn't break down under the sun | Doesn't break down under the sun |
Comparison of materials by thermal conductivity
Foam insulation
Polystyrene foam is selected based on its density - high density means low thermal conductivity. The table below will help you correctly navigate the characteristics of polystyrene foam when insulating a wooden house:
A log house can be insulated with any foam with a standard sheet or slab thickness of 5 or 10 cm.
Insulation of a log house with polystyrene foam
Insulation with extruded polystyrene foam (EPS)
Before you insulate a house made of timber with EPS, think about exceeding the estimate - this thermal insulation material costs much more than polystyrene foam and mineral wool.
EPS is attached to the walls with glue, which should not contain acetone, toluene, water, ethyl acetate and all derivatives of these substances. Therefore, when using this insulation, it is recommended to buy the following glue:
- Adhesive foam brand "TechnoNIKOL";
- Glue “Ceresit” CT-85;
- Adhesive façade composition"Allfix"
- Glue "Bitumast";
- Glue “Illbruck PU-010” based on polyurethane;
- Adhesive composition "Insta-Stick Universal-145345".
Attaching EPS to wood with glue
Foamed polyethylene NPE
The advantages of NPE over other thermal insulation materials are as follows:
- Low thermal conductivity coefficient;
- The elasticity and elasticity of the material allows it to be laid on uneven surfaces;
- Light weight and low cost.
Foamed polyethylene is produced as high-pressure insulation (HDPE) and low-pressure insulation (LDPE), the material is foiled with an aluminum layer on one or both sides. In individual construction, the following brands of NPE are most often practiced:
- Insulating harness “Vilaterm”;
- Rolled heat insulator in the form of “Thermopol” mats. Mat thickness - 1.5-4 cm;
- Roll insulation "Penofol". Has a foil layer on one or both sides.
Foamed polyethylene for log house
When insulating a house with a layer of foamed polyethylene, there is no need to install additional layers of vapor and waterproofing, and this is also a distinctive feature of the material - NPE is non-hygroscopic. And the low cost of rolls of foamed polyethylene provides a good opportunity to save the family budget without losing the quality of work on insulating the house outside.
Izoplat – windproof boards
The manufacturer is Finland, and everyone there knows about frost. Izoplat is made from fibers coniferous trees, without synthetic and harmful additives and additives. Standard sizes products - thickness 12 mm, length - 2700 mm and width - 1200 mm; in terms of heat retention properties, such a 12 mm thick plate is equal to a 44 mm layer of pure wood.
Positive qualities of Izoplat insulation:
- Hermetic surface and elasticity, which is why windproof boards cover the walls of the house very tightly;
- Thermal conductivity coefficient of Izoplat insulation: λ10 ≤ 0.045 W/m K;
- Good vapor permeability allows the building wall to breathe, therefore minimizing the possibility of mold and other fungal diseases;
- High moisture resistance due to impregnation of the boards with paraffin;
- Noise insulation – 23 dB. For comparison: a three-chamber PVC window has a sound insulation of 47 dB;
- With dimensions of 2700 x 1200 x 12 mm and a weight of one plate of 9 kg, quick and easy installation on walls is ensured;
- Guaranteed service life - ≥ 50-70 years;
- Absolutely environmentally friendly, since the material is natural.
Insulation of external walls of a wooden house with Izoplatom
Basics of insulating a timber house
Wood is a hygroscopic material, so the surface of the walls can be deformed to a fairly large depth. Although profiled laminated veneer lumber is impregnated with moisture-repellent substances, the material absorbs moisture, although in small quantities, but sufficient to cause wall deformations. First of all, deformations manifest themselves in distortions of windows and doors, which have to be additionally insulated or reinstalled.
When insulating a house with Isoplat, you need to create a ventilation gap so that excess moisture comes out of the wood and does not deform it. Then a thermal insulation layer of slabs with decorative cladding made of siding, lining and other similar materials. Therefore, a ventilated facade for timber construction is mandatory.
Scheme of insulation of a timber house "Izoplatom" Methods of attaching "Izoplat" slabs to a wooden surface
The ventilation façade scheme consists of the following layers:
- Wall surface;
- Wooden or metal sheathing;
- Insulation layer;
- Vapor barrier;
- Ventilation gap;
- Decorative protective cladding.
Regardless of the insulation material, be sure to observe the correct layer-by-layer fastening of building materials. And lastly: between the layer of any insulation and the layer of decorative cladding it is necessary to leave an air gap of ≈ 10 mm.
Do-it-yourself decorative plaster from ordinary brick putty How to make artificial stone on the wall with your own hands?
With the onset of winter cold, many private and country estates made of brick and concrete become completely unsuitable not only for permanent residence, but even for spending traditional weekends or holidays. But many would like to relax away from the noisy metropolis, gain energy and strength for the upcoming everyday life. And only the inadequacy of the houses prevents this from happening.
A similar problem will never arise if you take care in advance about preparing and insulating your home for the winter season.
To prevent warm air from escaping from a country house during frosts, owners can use an intelligent control system or, at the design stage, think about building a “thermos house” that retains precious heat, or carry out a set of insulation works, both external and external. High-quality and scrupulous execution, the use of modern thermal insulation materials guarantee insulation of the walls from the inside at the proper level and the creation of a comfortable, and most importantly, healthy microclimate in all rooms.
When performing thermal insulation work, special attention should be paid to insulating the corners of the house, otherwise you will have to face problems in the future with their freezing and a decrease in the air temperature in the house.
Reasons for freezing corners in the house
Among the most common reasons for freezing of the corners of wooden and brick houses, there are two main ones: construction defects and the laws of physics.
It is known that each corner of a building represents a so-called geometric bridge of cold. Using insufficient quantities mortar, poor quality and voids in concrete will sooner or later lead to freezing of the corner space in the house. And thanks to the condensation that forms on the bridge due to the huge difference between street and room temperature, mold and moisture appear when low temperatures ah turning into ice crystals. It seems that a completely logical solution to this problem would be to lay thermal insulation material along the entire perimeter of the room. However, such thermal insulation equally insulates the wall surface not only from cold, but also from heat.
insulation work plan 
insulating the wall from the inside using polyurethane foam 
scheme for insulating the walls of a wooden house 
insulation of walls from inside a wooden house
Widespread insulation can worsen an already deplorable situation, because the dew point will move to the inner surface of the wall, which will lead to its complete freezing. The thermal insulation layer in this case will only hold back the flow warm air indoors, preventing contact with the wall and increasing the formation of moisture on it. After some time, the thermal insulation material will first become unusable, then the wall will begin to collapse and the cold bridge will increase.
Corners in the house freeze: what to do?
The problem of insulating walls from the inside, and subsequently freezing of corners, can be solved with the help of thermal insulation of the facade, reliable insulation of internal surfaces and high-quality sealing of seams.
Internal wall insulation
Insulation of walls from the inside is used in rare cases (when there is a government ban settlement to replace the facade of the house or behind the wall there is an elevator shaft, unheated room or a deformation beam between houses; this form of insulation can also be included in the initial project, for example, additional insulation in frame or wooden houses). Internal wall insulation most often does not lead to the desired results. Therefore, if you nevertheless decide to insulate the walls from the inside, then you need to do it correctly, following the technology and using the materials intended for this. Materials for internal insulation are selected with the lowest vapor permeability and moisture absorption in order to avoid condensation closer to the inner edge of the wall. It is desirable that when installing the insulation there are no seams or joints.
Such common materials as mineral wool, cork, warm plaster, drywall (it is used only at the final stage of work), etc. do not fall under these criteria.
insulation of walls with penoplex inside the house 
thermal insulation with penofol
So, how to insulate walls from the inside? We recommend using the following materials:
1) Polyurethane foam (you will need to use formwork, fill the wall in parts, then install a polyethylene film as an insulating layer, then build an additional one, which will be plastered).
2) Expanded polystyrene or penoplex (the joints of the sheets must be coated with sealant, they should be secured with a uniform small layer of mortar)
3) Construction of a second internal wall with an air gap and a layer of insulation (it is possible to use underfloor heating elements, but this method will be expensive and will significantly reduce the usable area of the room).
External insulation
To insulate walls from the inside, you can use “warm” plaster, containing tiny polystyrene foam granules instead of regular sand. " Warm plaster» is distinguished by visual lightness, good speed of application and setting, high level vapor permeability and excellent thermal insulation properties: a 50 mm layer of plaster is equivalent to double brick masonry. All these obvious advantages guarantee normal condensation and a healthy microclimate in the house.
Specialized liquid products - suspensions based on synthetic rubber or acrylic polymers - also have excellent thermal insulation characteristics, anti-corrosion and anti-fungal effects. Applying several layers of such insulation to wood or concrete successfully replaces a 10 cm layer of mineral wool. Externally resembling paint, the suspension also effectively reflects thermal radiation. The outer side of the wall is first treated with mortar using a roller, and then covered with a finishing coating.
Worthy alternative option The walls will be insulated using thermal panels.
Insulation of corners
Technology of the process of insulation of corners of brick, concrete and wooden houses To avoid freezing, it includes several actions:
- First of all, the walls are cleaned of plaster, wallpaper and other decorative coatings. If cracks cannot be identified visually, then the surface is tapped with a hammer: if voids are detected, the sound will be dull. We prepare all freezing corners, joints between floors, open cracks in concrete by making grooves with a cross-section of no more than 20x20 mm, and detect other defects that can lead to freezing. The corner is thoroughly dried.
- If mold is present, the surface is treated with antifungal compounds. If the mold damage is extensive, it is recommended to use blowtorch or carefully mill the surface.
- Treatment of identified voids with a special heat-insulating material, for example, liquid foam or, which guarantees the appearance of moisture on the inner surface of the walls.
- The remaining foam is removed from the wall. The corner is plastered.
The best time to insulate the walls from the inside of a building is the warm season, otherwise it will be quite difficult to get rid of mold on the walls and dampness in the room.
How to prevent corners in the house from freezing?
To prevent corners from freezing, it is enough to resort to some architectural changes. For example, round or bevel corners in a house. You can significantly insulate the walls inside using pilasters on the outer corners of the building. To prevent the appearance of condensation, you can use non-standard and interesting design solutions: under the ceiling in the corner, fix a plasterboard box with decorative lighting from traditional incandescent lamps. The outgoing light flux will not only illuminate the room, but also heat the surrounding air, thereby preventing the appearance of moisture and mold.
If your house is made of logs, then at the time of its construction you should carefully fasten the crown logs in the corners with a cut lock using thermal insulation materials. Such measures will reliably protect wooden house from freezing corners.
If you have experienced the purchase or sale of apartments, then you have noticed that buyers do not really like corner apartments or rooms. What is this connected with? Although it is much easier to ventilate such an apartment in summer, the view from the windows opens on two or even three sides.
But there is one significant drawback. Very often, with the arrival of frost, residents of corner apartments suffer from insufficient heat. If the temperature outside is around zero, and heating season has not yet begun, uncomfortable conditions are being created inside such an apartment. It appears, the windows fog up, the floor becomes cold, and the bed becomes damp.
The main reason for this is the presence of three walls that have access to the outside and are therefore most susceptible to low temperatures. In winter, even with central heating, the situation only gets worse.
The walls can freeze completely, especially in the corners, interior decoration will begin to fall off, mold and mildew will appear. Staying in such an apartment will not only be uncomfortable, but also unsafe, especially for children. After all, they are most susceptible to the occurrence of diseases caused by.
What to do in such a situation? Many people try to install additional heating radiators, but this, most often, does not solve the problem or solves it, but not completely. Dampness moves to the ceiling, forming places where mold accumulates.
What is the right thing to do in such a situation? The best solution is that you need to try to insulate the walls. How can I do that? How to do it? We'll try to figure it out now. What is the best way to insulate the walls of an apartment from the inside? First, let's look at what types exist.
Today, the market for thermal insulation materials is extensive, represented by various products. All of them are divided according to the place of their installation: outside the wall or inside the room.
Each of them has both disadvantages and advantages. When installing any of them, you must strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions.
When buying a heat insulator, you should pay attention to the following parameters:
- heat conductivity;
- air permeability;
- waterproofing properties;
- environmental Safety;
- fire resistance;
- operating time.
Using high-quality material, you can insulate a corner without any problems. What is the best insulation for walls inside an apartment? What is the best way to insulate walls from the inside?
Minvata
This heat insulator is the most popular; it is made from basalt fiber. It has excellent thermal insulation properties, allows good ventilation air, but does not tolerate excess moisture well. This material has a high degree of fire safety and does not emit toxic substances when exposed to direct fire.
When installing mineral wool, special guides are used, and the installation process itself does not require special effort, because light material and elastic. Is it possible to insulate walls with it? But over time, these qualities can cause it to lose its shape.
The environmental component is also ambiguous - the material emits a small amount of harmful gases. Some people do not use it because of the significant weight gained during installation of the structure.
Polystyrene foam insulation
The name speaks about the process of its creation. That is, the material is created by foaming polystyrene under high pressure. The price of such material is quite affordable, it is easy to assemble and install, which makes it a popular heat insulator.
It has good thermal insulation properties, it is environmentally friendly and safe. It can be used for both interior and exterior work. It can be mounted on walls made of any material.
The process is quite simple and not labor-intensive. The advantages include its huge service life. But of course there are also disadvantages.
So, due to poor water permeability, condensation can accumulate on wooden walls, which leads to their destruction, and it is also highly flammable. The insulation of a concrete wall from the inside can be carried out perfectly using this material.
Extruded polystyrene foam
This material is the most popular insulation. It is elastic and easy to process. The disadvantages include the difficulty in joining sheets.
There is a material on sale in which the edge is made in the form of protrusions, which makes it much easier installation work.
has good moisture resistance, it is lightweight, convenient for installation work.
Use of polystyrene foam
This is an excellent material for insulating apartment walls. It contains more than 95% gas, so it is an excellent heat insulator.
It is distinguished by its low cost, excellent waterproofing, and fire safety. Polystyrene foam is used at any temperature, being an environmentally friendly material.
Application of keramoizol
This is a relatively new material. It is sold in containers of various sizes, as it is a liquid material. Has excellent thermal insulation properties. Keramoizol is a durable, waterproof and vapor-tight product.
During installation, several layers are applied, and for better thermal insulation- six. The layers are laid perpendicular to each other. This material has proven itself only from the best side. Its only and main disadvantage is its high price.
Penoizol insulation
Thermal insulation material - penoizol is a type of polyurethane and is used in the form of foam. The advantage is the quick installation of the material in a brick building., forming a layer required thickness heat insulator, no seams or joints.
Excellent thermal insulation and waterproofing properties, the material is non-flammable and environmentally friendly. But perhaps its main advantage is the low cost of work, almost two times less than when using conventional materials.
Using Astratek
Asstratek is a suspension; solid particles are represented by various polymers. To apply to the wall, use a spray gun or install it manually paint brush. Excellent insulation, just one centimeter of layer is similar to fifty centimeters of a mineral wool slab.
Doesn't pick up inner space premises, forms a smooth, homogeneous surface that requires minimal processing for applying cladding. The main limiting factor for large-scale application is its high cost.
How to insulate the walls in an apartment from the inside? It's up to you to decide.
How to insulate walls in a panel and monolithic house?
How to insulate walls from the inside? How to insulate concrete wall from the inside? How to do this correctly? To insulate a wall from the inside, consider step by step instructions insulation of walls and partitions in panel house from the inside.
Algorithm of actions:
- First you need to prepare the walls. To do this, you need to remove furniture, clean the walls from finishing material to plaster. Therefore, this procedure should be combined with renovation work in your apartment;
- next must be done. It is best to use special polymers, but you can also use regular plastic film. It is applied directly to the walls, the places where the strips are fastened are glued. To do this, use construction tape;
- Next we install the sheathing; you can use both wooden and metal guides. In the first case, the tree must be treated with antiseptics and fire-fighting solutions. When installing the sheathing, the step size must be selected depending on the insulation, so as not to form gaps and voids;
- then we directly lay the heat insulator, that is, we insulate the walls. It should fit into the openings between the sheathing. Many materials are designed in such a way that during installation they straighten out and fill the entire form, this significantly reduces installation time;
- installation . By installing it, we protect our insulation from wet steam, which is always present in the apartment. Under no circumstances should these measures be neglected, as moisture will begin to accumulate in the insulation. As a result of this, the product will lose its properties, and all your work will be lost.
The vapor barrier film is laid without gaps or omissions, the joints and cracks are treated with sealants;
- installation . It is necessary to choose a material suitable for installation in residential premises. When installing sheets, it is important to follow the instructions, and then you should do the necessary procedures for installing facing materials.
How to insulate the walls of an apartment from the inside? You can insulate a corner apartment in a panel or monolithic house by following these six steps.
Installing insulation on brick walls
How to insulate brick walls inside an apartment with your own hands? Corner walls in a brick house you can insulate it using the same method as in a panel house. Therefore, we will analyze the work of installing material made from polystyrene.
Insulating a wall in an apartment from the inside:
- clean the walls down to the plaster. If it is missing, then it should be applied. After this, the walls must be leveled, cracks repaired and then treated with a primer;
- you need to prepare the glue according to the manufacturer's recommendations and apply it to the walls that you will insulate. In the beginning, you can use a regular spatula. You need to apply glue to the walls, then take a notched trowel and go around the entire perimeter again. This is done in order to create an uneven surface of the glue. This promotes better adhesion of the insulation;
- how to insulate a wall in a corner apartment from the inside? Next, we take sheets of thermal insulation and begin installing them on the walls. First of all, the very bottom row is laid. We apply the polystyrene sheet tightly and press it through; you do not need to use dowels or other fastening materials. When installing, use a level and carefully join the edges so that no gaps form; if necessary, cut the sheets. The next row is installed so that the junction of the two sheets is in the middle bottom sheet. This will give greater durability to the entire structure.
Watch the surface of the insulation so that unevenness does not form, because when final finishing this will bring additional difficulties.
- After you have installed the thermal insulation, you can begin finishing work. If you plan to cover the walls with plasterboard, then no additional work on the insulation is required. If you plan to cover it with a layer of plaster, putty, wallpaper, or paint, then you need to treat it with a primer, then install a mesh of reinforcing fiber. After this, you can begin to apply layers of plaster or putty.
By following these steps, you can insulate corner room from the inside.
Insulation of walls using the “electric floor” method
How to insulate a wall in an apartment from the inside according to this method? Insulation of the apartment from the inside is carried out as follows. First of all, you need to attach the “” sheets to the wall using fastening materials.
After this, we connect the sheets to electrical network apartments. At the very severe frost turn on the system and warm up the walls until they are completely dry. After this, we lay thermal insulation to prevent heat loss. Then you can start tiling the walls.
So, if you decide to insulate the walls of a corner apartment, you need to choose a material based on the type of walls and the price range of the heat insulator. Then it is important to consider the method of installation and subsequent cladding.
You should also pay attention to the following aspects:
- installing insulation reduces the volume of the room;
- poorly performed work can lead to mold;
- For comfortable life ventilation must be installed.
By strictly adhering to the rules, you can insulate your apartment and create comfort in it. Insulating the walls of an apartment from the inside is a fairly simple process.
And the inside (you can insulate the front, back, end wall) is carried out according to the instructions. An insulated corner apartment is great because you can enjoy comfort.
One of the frequently asked questions by most of us, especially the owners of an apartment in a panel house, is how to insulate a corner room in a panel house.
Insulation panel house outside - necessary measure, since living in cold apartment does not add comfort and is fraught with health problems. And, most of all, this applies to end (corner) apartments in panel high-rise buildings. Over time, cracks form at interfloor joints, through which water easily penetrates into the wall and is absorbed. In winter, the water accumulated in the walls freezes and begins to attack the wall from the inside, making the living space cold and, moreover, damp.
Getting rid of freezing corners
This problem can be solved positively if you know how to insulate a panel house from the outside and, in particular, an apartment. 
Let's consider how and with what panel houses are insulated. There are several schemes and methods of insulation using various materials.
The question of how to insulate corners in a panel house is especially acute. The corner room, due to its design specifics, has not one in common with the street, but two, which significantly increases heat loss. In addition, such rooms contain two windows, one on each of the existing external walls. This fact is remarkable only in terms of illumination, but in terms of heat retention - so-so.
Residents of such apartments are trying to solve the problem by increasing the number of heating devices in room. But, as everyday experience shows, problems often arise with freezing of corners between external walls and, as a result, condensation appears on the wall and the consequences are not long in coming:
- the wallpaper is coming off;
- previously painted walls water-based paint, become covered with stains, and the enamel peels off in patches;
- the plaster is destroyed, which will lead to damage to the main wall;
- fungus appears, which looks unsightly and is harmful to health.
The conclusion suggests itself - high-quality insulation of the corner room is necessary and it is better not to limit yourself to just improving the corners.
You can insulate a corner room:
- outside;
- from the inside.
If insulation is not available from the outside, the issue is considered internal thermal insulation. Condensation is an obvious “bottleneck” of internal insulation, therefore, it is necessary to protect the main wall from water vapor.
Today two solutions are known:
- the use of insulation characterized by low vapor permeability;
- protection of insulation directly with a vapor barrier film;
Who can carry out thermal insulation outside
Insulation panel walls it is better to leave it in the hands of highly professional specialists who have sufficient experience, perform work in accordance with SNiP and observing the sequence of technological operations
.Coordination with the relevant authorities to allow insulation of the external walls of a panel house is not required if the building is not of historical value.
At the same time, no matter what kind of insulation you use, the material must correspond certain requirements, among which:
- high degree of thermal conductivity;
- moisture absorption;
- airtightness;
- Fire safety;
- environmental friendliness;
- long service life.
Important: insulation for temperate climate should be of sufficient thickness - from 8 cm.
Seam insulation
The need for thermal insulation of seams in accordance with technology will eliminate the occurrence of drafts, fungus, and heat losses. 
The main prerequisite for carrying out the work is a fairly long service life of the house - twenty years or more, as a result of which shrinkage and shifting of structural elements occurred.
As a result:
- joint filler has peeled off or cracked;
- there is a decrease in room temperature during severe frosts;
- damage to the plaster layer, peeling of wallpaper and other finishing materials occurs;
- constant humidity is fixed at the joint;
- the occurrence of mold;
- visual signs of seam failure from the outside.
Interpanel seam design
A panel seam is a joint between external building envelopes and is classified into a seam formed at the junction of two or three slabs.
The last type of seam requires an enhanced technological procedure, since it is the most vulnerable.
Today, insulation of seams directly in panel houses is carried out polymer materials, which significantly increased the service life of the coating.
The choice of insulation is influenced by the following factors:
- climate zone;
- number of storeys;
- the year the building was erected and its purpose;
- availability of major repairs.
Among the widely used insulation materials:
- polyurethane foam (polyurethane-based sealant);
- Vilaterm filler;
- mineral wool and other soft insulating fibers.
Also, completely sealing the seam is a common method of thermal insulation. Plastic solutions that penetrate deeply into structural cavities are used as fillers, and sand, expanded clay, and fine gravel are considered as fillers. 
All work is carried out on a leveled and thoroughly cleaned surface, and the materials used are slab-type insulation materials with a very high strength coefficient.
How experts carry out thermal insulation of a panel house from the outside
Insulation of facades is usually carried out by builders-climbers, it is advisable to contact trusted specialists, the cost varies depending on the number of floors, it is really necessary to coordinate with neighbors. 
The technological process according to which the external walls of a panel house are insulated affects the following points:
- cleaning the surface of the panels from dirt and falling away facing materials;
- sealing visually visible cracks;
- applying a layer of adhesive substance;
- installation of foam sheets;
- fastening them to the wall surface with dowels.
After the glue has hardened, protective profiles and elements are installed, and then the formation of the outer decorative layer begins. For thermal insulation in a panel house 2-3 room apartment takes at least a week.
As you can see, if you approach the question of how to insulate walls in a panel house thoughtfully and consistently, then there will be no problems.
Users often ask: how to insulate a corner apartment in a panel house yourself? If the insulation of the outside of a panel house is carried out on the ground floor and you are confident in your abilities, then everything is quite possible.
Painting the walls of a panel house
The insulation of the walls of a panel house will be incomplete and incomplete if the walls are not painted; as a result, your house or apartment will stand out in an original way from others. At the same time, painting the walls is the final stage in wall insulation and acrylic paint is used for this procedure. 
The painting procedure is as follows:
- the paint is mixed until smooth and tinted in a spacious container for better capture of a portion of paint;
- painted with a roller, which is dipped into a tray with paint, movements are made in one direction;
- the paint is applied in a thin layer to avoid smudges and sagging;
- in hard-to-reach places use a narrow paint brush;
- The paint is applied in 2-3 layers, each subsequent one only after the previous one has dried.
How much will it cost to insulate a corner apartment?
Insulation panel houses the pleasure is not cheap; the number of floors directly affects the overall cost. For residents of the 1st and 2nd floors, this procedure will cost less, somewhere around 200–220 UAH/sq.m. m of processed facade area, already from the 3rd floor - price 220–270 UAH (including materials). It is allowed to insulate not the entire facade, but only one room, at your discretion. In general, to insulate a 2-room apartment S - 48 sq. m (S facade - 28 sq. m) will cost 6.5–7.5 thousand UAH, and a three-room apartment will cost 56 sq. m. m (S facade - 37 sq. m) - 8.6-10 thousand UAH.
Conclusion
Insulating the walls of a panel house from the outside is the best thing that can be done in such a situation for further comfortable living. Successful combination Using conventional building materials with innovative technologies will provide reliable results.
External insulation is more effective than internal insulation, and the original usable area of the apartment will be preserved. There is also no need for external thermal insulation reinstall heating, engineering systems, electrical wiring. It should be noted that thermal insulation on the outside significantly increases the cost of the apartment, a kind of investment in the future.
Wooden house construction has not lost its relevance over many hundreds of years of human life. This is due to the benefits it contains. But in order for housing from this wonderful ecological pure material was warm, comfortable and cozy for living, it is necessary to comply with all the canons of technology during the construction process.
The most vulnerable place in a building made of wood, and in particular timber, is the corners of the house. If they are not performed correctly, then such a house loses significant amount heat due to cracks and blowing in the corners, as evidenced by frequent complaints from owners.
Warm corner technology
Let's look at how to insulate the corners of a timber house. To prevent the corners of a house from being blown through, a technological solution called a “warm corner” is used in wooden housing construction. It is a corner connection of two beams, when a groove is cut in one, and a tenon corresponding to the size of the groove is cut in the other. The tight fit of the tenon into the groove ensures the tightness of the connection. The tenon and groove are located closer to the inner edge of the beam. In the process of erecting walls, builders observe alternating joints of log corners with bandaging. On even-numbered crowns a timber with a tenon is laid, on odd-numbered ones - with a groove. Additionally, such a connection is sealed with jute fiber, which is most preferable for sealing the corners of a wooden house compared to moss, linen tow or linen batting.
There are other types of warm corner cutting. They were called "semi" dovetail" and "dovetail". In this case, the tenon is shaped like half or a whole (for partitions inside the house) tail of a swallow, and the groove is a recess corresponding in shape and size. Moreover, the groove and the recess correspond to each other as much as possible in size.
Advantages of the “warm corner” technology
- Reliability and high structural strength
- Savings due to the lack of additional fasteners
- Quick house assembly
- No blowing or drafts in the room
Additional methods for insulating corners
The question of how to insulate the corners of a house made of timber, which has been in use for some time, is very often asked to specialists in wooden house construction. In this regard, in addition to the “warm corner” technology, it is recommended to use methods such as filling the joints with inter-crown sealant, such as elastomeric foam or other silicone and acrylic sealants.
In addition, it additionally makes sense to arrange decorative corner trims from cladding boards, having previously provided a nest in the ceiling to avoid their damage if the house shrinks during operation. Tow treated with an antiseptic is placed under the platbands.
Finnish builders have developed a technology for corner connections of timber walls, called the “labyrinth cup”, which also provides good protection corners from blowing. In such a connection, the beam is sawn out from all four sides, which leads to a tighter connection due to the displacement of the edges of the beam relative to each other and forms a labyrinth for air flow. To prevent the formation of cracks during operation, the beams are fastened with metal staples.