How to level a concrete ceiling in an apartment. Leveling the ceiling - how to level the ceiling using plaster, putty and drywall (110 photos)

Anyone can level the ceiling efficiently and quickly with their own hands. You just need to decide on the method and familiarize yourself with its basic technological features. Our recommendations and step-by-step algorithms- to help you.

The content of the article:

It is impossible to finish the ceiling without first leveling it. Any unevenness and potholes will be visible after whitewashing, painting and wallpapering, which will undoubtedly spoil appearance. Usually, surface leveling begins after dismantling the old coating and sealing cracks. Today, there are many methods to make the ceiling even. They differ in practicality, cost and complexity of implementation. All methods are divided into two types - dry and wet. Each of them has certain features, pros and cons.

Wet and dry ceiling leveling

The technology of wet (damp) ceiling leveling can be used on surfaces with uneven surfaces up to 5 cm deep. It consists of finishing the base construction mixtures.

There are several ways wet leveling ceiling:

1. Plastering. Performed with unevenness from two to five centimeters.
2. putty. It is carried out with unevenness up to two centimeters.

Dry leveling of the ceiling is used for unevenness with a depth of 5 cm. It can be carried out without damaging the wall finish, unlike wet methods.

Dry methods for leveling the ceiling include:

• Sheathing with plasterboard. Plasterboard sheets are an excellent option to level the coating and implement original design ideas. With their help you can make a figured or multi-level coating. Under this design you can hide wiring and pipes. The market offers many models with different performance characteristics. For example, leveling the ceiling with plasterboard can be done even in the bathroom and kitchen if you choose moisture-resistant sheets.
• Covering with PVC panels and siding. The main advantages of such materials are strength and durability. The materials are moisture resistant and suitable for finishing any room, although they look less aesthetically pleasing. Also, the disadvantages include relatively high cost. The materials line the ceiling and are finishing. As a rule, they do not require additional finishing.
• Installation tensile structures . This is one of the most original options ceiling leveling. They can be made of matte or glossy PVC ceiling, as well as tissue based. This method is more of a ceiling finishing that does not require preliminary leveling.

Features of leveling the ceiling with putty

The method of leveling the ceiling with putty is used to process floors that do not have significant differences. Putty differs from plaster in the size of the filler. Hers is small in size, no more than 1 thousand microns. That is why it is used to eliminate small defects on concrete, wood and other surfaces.

The main advantage of putty is that it can be used to achieve a perfectly smooth surface. In addition, this method is relatively inexpensive and durable. An additional advantage of putty is its environmental friendliness, artificial materials(expanded polystyrene, polyvinyl chloride, plastic) are not used in this case.

Only a primer is required to work deep penetration, starting and finishing putty. These are environmentally friendly materials that do not emit odors or chemicals. To level the ceiling with putty, you need spatulas, a roller and a drill with an attachment for stirring the compounds in the container.

The main disadvantage of leveling the ceiling with putty is the laboriousness of the work, since the putty layer must be very thin.

The surface can be puttied only after removing the old finishing layer and sealing the cracks. It is important to apply two layers of primer before work. This will contribute to better adhesion of the putty and ceiling covering. Before starting work, it is recommended to cover the ceiling with painting mesh or fiberglass using PVA glue. This will increase the strength of the surface and prevent future cracks.

1. Prepare the solution. Putty for treating large surfaces is sold dry. It must be diluted according to the instructions. It should be homogeneous, without lumps and have a consistency similar to thick sour cream.
2. Using a narrow spatula, apply a little mortar along the blade of a wide spatula and apply it to the ceiling. If you plan to apply several layers of putty, the thickness of the first should not exceed one centimeter.
3. After processing the coating, you need to wait until it dries completely. starting putty before proceeding with further work. Optimal temperature for speedy drying - +18 degrees.
4. Sand the surface with fine-grained paper.
5. Apply a second layer of finishing putty as thinly as possible.
6. After drying, we also sand and prime it.

Please note that it is better to use putty and primer from the same manufacturer, as they will combine better with each other.

How to level a ceiling with plaster

Leveling the ceiling with plaster is carried out if the differences are up to five centimeters. This is enough labor-intensive process, but you can’t do without it if the level differences are large. This usually happens in houses old building with curved floors. You can plaster a variety of surfaces - concrete, wood, as well as columns, beams and other metal structures.

Among the advantages this method When leveling the ceiling, one thing that can be highlighted is that the plaster does not “steal” the height of the room, like, for example, hanging systems. In addition, plaster, like putty, is an environmentally friendly material. The work requires tools such as a special spatula, a container for mixing the solution, a drill with a stirring attachment, a paint brush or roller.

The difficulty of performing the work and the main disadvantage of this method is that wet and dry mortar, if the work is carried out incorrectly, can fall off the ceiling and injure a person. In this case, it is important to carefully follow the instructions and pay attention to the preparatory stage of surface treatment.

Before work it is necessary to prime the surface. The plaster must be securely attached to the coating. It is recommended to level the ceiling with a mesh before applying the solution. For differences of up to five centimeters, you can glue PVA paint, but for differences of five or more centimeters, it is advisable to secure the metal reinforcing mesh with special brackets.

• We install beacons in 30 cm increments. This is necessary for significant unevenness. Markings will help level the surface as efficiently as possible.
• Prepare the solution. It can be based on lime, gypsum or cement.
• Apply the mixture by spraying it onto the ceiling. The so-called “combing” method is used for large differences.
• After fixing the solution, level it with a second layer. Please note that when leveling the ceiling with cement, apply the next coating after 2 hours, when using gypsum mortar - after 20 minutes, with lime mortar - after the layer has acquired whiteness.
• We prime the coating and remove the beacons.
• We process corners and joints.
• If necessary, apply a final topcoat.

If the differences are up to five centimeters, then preliminary “combing” can be omitted. Simply apply the first layer using a ladle and trowel.

Rules for leveling the ceiling with plasterboard

Leveling the ceiling using plasterboard sheets is a simple and reliable technology. Unlike PVC panels and siding, drywall - environmentally friendly material. The undeniable advantage of this method is the absence of “dirty” wet processes. The only exception is when sealing seams with putty.

After installation of drywall there is practically no construction waste, except for scraps of material. In addition, the space between the base and suspended plasterboard ceilings can be used usefully, for example, for heat and sound insulation and laying communications. Drywall itself has good soundproofing properties, and also insulates the room and is a fireproof material.

Installation is like this suspended structure does not require special tools or skills. And the design of the future ceiling depends only on your imagination and abilities. With drywall you can bring almost any idea to life.

At the same time, leveling with plasterboard ceiling It also has its downsides. Finishing the ceiling with plasterboard will “take away” at least 8-10 cm of the height of the room, and possibly more, depending on the curvature of the ceiling. In addition, drywall is not resistant to direct exposure to water. If flooding occurs top floor, then the material can not only lose its shape and deform, but also collapse. After drying, the drywall will still remain deformed and will require replacement.

Before starting work, you need to prepare the surface. To do this, you need to clean off the old cladding, seal the cracks, get rid of stains of grease, rust, soot, mold, and prime the surface. To complete the work you will need gypsum boards, metal profiles, and fasteners. Give preference to galvanized parts, they are resistant to corrosion and will last longer.

We carry out the work according to the following instructions:

1. We make markings on the ceiling in places of future fastening with a pencil.
2. Using self-tapping screws, we fix the profiles to the ceiling.
3. We lay out wiring and communication lines. For convenience and safety, it is advisable to use a box.
4. Preparing drywall sheets for installation. We give them the desired shape and size.
5. We fix the details to metal profile self-tapping screws in increments of 15-20 cm.
6. We cover the seams between the sheets with sickle tape using PVA glue or starting putty.
7. After drying, we clean the joints and attach an abrasive mesh to the vibratory sander.
8. We prime the surface.

PVC panels and siding are attached using almost the same technology.

How to level a ceiling with plasterboard - watch the video:

In this article we will look at the method of leveling the ceiling with plaster and gypsum mixtures. It is optimal for old apartments with low and uneven ceilings, since it practically does not “remove” heights in comparison with suspended systems.

Preparing the base

Preparing the base is perhaps the dirtiest and dustiest part of the job when leveling the ceiling using plaster or gypsum mixtures. Where to start work, you ask, and we will answer you - first of all, you need to completely vacate the premises. If it is impossible to do this, cover all things with plastic wrap and seal them with tape, because dust and debris cannot be avoided in any way.

First we need:

• Sharp spatula;
• Bucket;
• washcloth;
• Respirator.

So, let's start repairing our ceiling:

Removing old paint

1. First, no matter how stupid it may sound, you should start with destruction. Namely, to remove traces of the latest repairs that have accumulated over the years (read). Remove all layers of whitewash, water-based and other types of paint from the ceiling with a spatula. To do this, you just need to rip everything off mechanically.

Tip: Alternatively, you can attach a long handle or stick to the spatula, which will give you the opportunity to work with both hands, which will make the task much easier.

• To make the task easier, you can use the so-called “ wet method». First, wet the ceiling with water using a roller, brush or spray bottle.. Let it soak thoroughly and rip it off without waiting for it to dry.

Tip: When removing layers of whitewash and plaster, the spatula must be sharp, so it is recommended to sharpen it from time to time.

There are several methods that have been proven over the years that can make our task much easier.:

• To soften old whitewash you can use hot water.
• Water-based paint will be much easier to remove using aqueous solution Yoda. To do this, dissolve one bottle per bucket (about 10 liters) and saturate the ceiling with this mixture using a roller or brush.
• Paints such as enamels or water-dispersed ones are not washed off with water. They have to be removed only mechanically (read further). You can also make your work easier by using a grinder or a drill with a wire attachment, however, this will increase the amount of dust to the point of impossibility.
  There are many products on the market for removing such paints. They are applied to the surface and after 15-20 minutes are removed with a spatula along with the paint.

Removing plaster

1. The next step is to check the integrity of the plaster. All places where the plaster layer is loose or falling off must be eliminated with a spatula down to the base. Special attention It is worth paying attention to the seams between the panels and tapping them with a hammer to ensure reliability. After all, over time, all houses shrink, their panel ceiling “walks” a little and shifts, as a result of which the mortar in the joints begins to fall off. Tap the seams between the floor panels and, if necessary, remove the mortar

Sealing interpanel seams

1. Now you can proceed directly to repairing the ceiling. The first step before leveling the ceiling will be to seal the seams between the panels.

It's done like this:

• The seam between the panels is filled polyurethane foam and left until completely hardened.
• All seams should be treated with a primer to ensure high-quality adhesion of the mortar to the concrete surface of the panels.
• Seal the seam between the panels with Rotband.
• A sickle mesh is glued to the Rotband.
• Level the putty to the level of the panels and smooth it. Method of sealing interpanel seams (rusts)

It should be noted that the use of serpyanka for large and uneven seams does not exclude the appearance of cracks in the future (see). In this case, it would be better to use a plaster fiberglass mesh, gluing it in layers.

Getting ready for leveling

1. Now we need to measure the horizontal line of the ceiling and set the beacons. But if you are not concerned about how horizontal your ceiling is, and you just want to remove the differences between the panels, you can skip this step. Without installing beacons (when leveling only on a plane), the thickness of the layer is significantly reduced, which means that less materials will be consumed. True, most people, for some reason or because of pedantry, cannot come to terms with the idea that their ceiling will be sloping.

In this case, there are several options:

• If there is a large deviation from the horizontal, only suspended or suspended ceilings can save you.
• If the difference is within 5 centimeters, you can use plaster and install beacons.

Before installing beacons, you need to determine the lowest point of the ceiling:

• Using a tape measure, measure the distance from floor to ceiling in all corners of the room. Shortest distance and will turn out to be the lowest point of the ceiling.
• With help laser level or hydraulic level, it is necessary to mark the height of this point along the perimeter of the room. It will be easier to do this if you mark only the corners and use a tapping cord. To do this, stretch the cord between the marks and, slightly pulling it away from the wall, release it - you will get a clear and even line.
• Every 60-80 centimeters, screw into a line on two opposite walls self-tapping screws Stretch a construction line across the room and, pulling it tight, tie it to the heads of the screws. Such a landmark will greatly simplify our task of installing beacons.
• Next, glue the lighthouse profile to the ceiling using Fugenfüller or Rotband putty using the dot method in increments of 30 centimeters. This means applying putty dots to the ceiling and gluing the profile by lightly pressing. All beacons must be aligned along a fishing line stretched perpendicularly.
• The last thing that is required in preparation for applying plaster layers is to remove the putty protruding beyond the beacons and prime the entire ceiling.

Leveling with mixtures

1. When the base is ready, you can proceed directly to applying leveling layers of putty.

They have their own operating characteristics that need to be mentioned.:

• When mixing putty, do not make a larger batch than you can use in 20-25 minutes.
• After the putty is mixed and left for several minutes, do not add water or dry mixture to it. This has a very negative effect on the quality of its structure.
• Do not dry the ceiling in a draft.
• The layer applied at one time should not exceed permissible value(it is indicated on the bag).

After kneading, apply the mixture to the ceiling with a small spatula and lightly level it.

Tip: Before applying each layer, it is very important to let the previous one dry completely. After all, if the technology is violated, all our work may simply fall off over time, despite the price and quality of the putty.

Each layer should be tightened using the rule according to the installed beacons.

1. After the leveling layer has dried, it must be checked using a rule for the absence of unevenness. To do this, simply run the pressed rule along the surface of the ceiling - it should be completely adjacent. All protrusions can be removed using sandpaper, and the holes should be filled with putty.

Finishing the ceiling

1. The last stage will be gluing the mesh at the junction of the panels and finishing putty:

• When the leveling layer is ready, it needs to be treated with a primer.
• Before finishing the putty on the ceiling, it is worth gluing fiberglass in the places where the panels join (rusts) to avoid the appearance of cracks.
• Fiberglass is glued over the leveling layer by pressing it into a fresh layer of putty.
• After the putty has dried, carefully remove all protrusions with a spatula and sand the surface with sandpaper.
• All that remains is to apply two more layers of finished finishing putty “Acrylic-putz” or “Shitrok”. The process can be seen in more detail in the photo below.
• The final sanding will finish off all our dusty work on the ceiling.

Painting

Before painting, you should remove dust from the room and prime the ceiling. It is not necessary to use special primers for this purpose, just apply the first layer with well-diluted paint. The thinner you need to select is only the one specified by the manufacturer on the packaging.. You should not experiment: if the paint is water-based, then when diluting it you can only use water.

Tip: The painted ceiling should not be dried in a draft, as upper layer becomes crusty, but the bottom one remains wet and the plastic properties of the coating are destroyed.

We hope that after reading this article, you learned how to properly level the ceiling. Now doing ceiling repairs at home with your own hands will not be any problem.

Renovating any room (residential or office) always begins with finishing the ceiling. For this there are different ways, but no matter which one you choose, painting or wallpapering, etc., first of all, you need to do preparatory work. And the most labor-intensive of them is leveling the ceiling with your own hands.

Tools needed to level the ceiling

• Three types of metal spatulas different sizes, with a rubberized handle.
• Capacity for 15-20 liters, with high sides and straight walls. High sides will protect from excessive splashes when mixing, and straight walls will make it possible to remove the solution with a spatula without leaving any residue.
• Mixer for preparing the working solution.
• Paint brush and roller for applying primer.
• Construction sandpaper for final sanding of the ceiling surface for painting.

Before you begin the ceiling leveling procedure, you need to prepare the surface by clearing it of old paint, whitewash or other coating. And the more carefully this is done, the better the subsequent work will be done. finishing operations. The surface is usually cleaned with a special scraper or spatula. Dry paint can also be removed. But you can do this job much faster and with less effort if you generously moisten the surface of the ceiling with water and create a draft in the room. This will cause the old coating to begin to bubble and removing it will not be difficult. After its removal, the ceiling must be thoroughly washed.

On next stage you need to decide on the alignment method. The choice of material for the primer depends on this. They differ in purpose:

1. under water-based paint,
2. under putty or plaster,
3. suitable for all types - universal.

Preliminary stage (for critically uneven surfaces): ceiling plaster

Plastering the ceiling is a highly labor-intensive process. And although there are many different methods for eliminating uneven ceilings, leveling the ceiling with plaster is still relevant. And if the level difference approaches the 5 centimeter mark, then this is the only Possible Solution in obtaining quality repairs.

You can plaster any surface: concrete and wood, columns, beams and other structures made of steel. Before applying plaster to the ceiling, preparatory work should be carried out.

Preparation

Installation of beacons

Plastering work is usually carried out on beacons, the installation of which is the most critical moment. If they are installed correctly, you will end up with a perfectly even plastered surface. Therefore, it is important that all the technology for plastering the ceiling according to beacons is followed.

• This work must begin by leveling the room. A zero mark must be marked on the walls. A paint cord is used for this.
• The location of the point that is the lowest on the ceiling is determined. This is the site where the first lighthouse was installed.
• Under the beacons, every 300 mm over the entire surface, plaster marks are applied in small molds, on which they will be installed. This must be done in such a way that there are as few connections as possible, since these are where errors are most often made.
• It is not recommended to lay a layer of plaster on the ceiling more than 5 cm. Therefore, the height of the beacons should not exceed this value. To control them in the horizontal plane, a two-meter level will be required. It is carried out after the installation of all beacons is completed.

Plastering on beacons

When you are finished installing the beacons, you can begin finishing the ceiling with plaster using the following technology:

• Prepare a working solution - gypsum, cement or lime. It must be remembered that when using a gypsum-based solution, each subsequent layer is applied 20-25 minutes after applying the previous one; cement - no earlier than two hours; lime - only after the previous layer has turned white, without allowing it to dry completely.
• Apply an even layer of spray without leveling it.
• Several primer layers are distributed onto the spray, observing the time required to consolidate the applied solution. They must be leveled each time, and ensure that they do not exceed the level of the beacons, and also that they do not appear on the primed surface. various defects, such as shells or pits. The thickness of the covering layer of plaster depends on this.
• Remove beacons with stamps. This is done after the last primer layer has been distributed, and the solution used is applied to the places where they were located.
• Check the evenness of the plaster using a rule that is applied while changing direction. The irregularities identified in this case are cut off or, conversely, enlarged with an additional layer. At the same time it is necessary to seal internal corners and the junction between the ceiling and the wall. This work is done with a grater.
• In conclusion plastering works, apply a covering layer, which is carefully leveled, creating smooth surface.

If the difference in the ceiling level is less than 5 cm, you can level the ceilings with dry mixtures. It is advisable to use them for small volumes of work, in particular for filling potholes, when purchasing large quantity other materials are not beneficial in financially. The best of them is considered to be Rotband (made in Germany) - a universal mixture for plastering work, based on gypsum.

After completing the “rough” leveling with plaster, you can begin finishing leveling with putty.

Main stage: ceiling putty

To treat ceilings without significant differences, it is best to use ceiling leveling with putty. Putty differs from plaster in the size of the filler. Hers is small, not exceeding 1000 microns. Therefore, it is most suitable for eliminating small defects on wooden and other surfaces, such as cracks and other irregularities. This achieves perfect smoothness.

The putty is applied very thin layer. Before applying the putty, all layers of old plaster (if any) are removed from the ceiling down to the base. Small irregularities, as well as any bumps, are smoothed out with construction sandpaper or a joint float with a long handle. Then apply PVA glue or special staff you can attach a painting mesh. It is often called serpyanka because of its similarity to gauze. IN Lately You can buy self-adhesive serpyanka on sale.

Having completed preparatory stage, you need to prepare a solution for putty. To do this, 30 kg of dry putty mixture is poured with 12 liters of water and quickly mixed. Best to use for this construction mixer, equipped with a large whisk or drill, with a special stirrer. IN finished form The consistency of the mixture should resemble thick sour cream.

All further work must be completed promptly, since the prepared solution very quickly begins to set and harden. This is done as follows: using a narrow spatula, the solution is applied to a spatula with a wide blade. Then it is transferred to the ceiling surface and pressed tightly against it. There is no need to waste time smoothing out any stains that may arise. They are easily removed after hardening using a grout mesh. As soon as the last applied layer of putty has dried, the entire surface must be sanded. For this purpose, a special grout with a mesh is used, the minimum coarseness of which is 120 units.

So that the work performed differs high quality and delight you with the beauty of a flat and smooth surface, it is better to purchase all materials (primer, putty and paint) from one manufacturer.

Ceiling putty step by step

So, do-it-yourself ceiling putty can be divided into the following stages:

• Preparatory, during which cleaning is carried out concrete floor, which consists in removing all irregularities that are higher than two mm. For this, a hammer drill equipped with a special attachment is used.
• Ceiling primer with a composition that has deep penetrating properties. It is carried out paint brush or with a roller.
• Applying starting putty as a leveling layer. To do this, it is applied to the ceiling surface in a layer of 1 cm. According to consistency, ready solution The putty should be like thick sour cream. To obtain a smooth surface, a metal polisher is used.
• The final stage is finishing putty on the ceiling. It is recommended to apply it in two layers. If the room temperature is above 18º C and it is well ventilated, then it can be done four hours after applying the starting putty. Under other conditions, drying of the previous layer may take longer and the transition to the final stage will have to be postponed until the next day.
• If the conditions necessary for the putty layer to quickly harden are met in the room, then the very next day you can begin sanding the surface. It is advisable to use a vibration grinder for this.

Whatever method of leveling the ceiling you choose, do not forget that before painting, a layer of primer must be applied to the leveled surface, for which you can use the same paint that will be used for the main painting.

Putty application technique

Take two spatulas - one with a wide blade (in left hand). The prepared solution is applied to it. IN right hand– working spatula.

The mixture should be taken a little at a time, trying to distribute it in the center of the blade of the working spatula. It should be applied as follows so that it lies completely on the surface of the ceiling.

You need to move in such a way that the surface is even and smooth, then come back and redo it. ready plots it is forbidden.

To prevent streaks on them, the working spatula should be held at a slight angle to the ceiling surface. This will allow its middle part to level the putty over the surface. In this case, one edge moves along the untreated surface, and the other (the one that moved along the already treated area) will be in the air, which will provide a smooth surface without streaks or scratches.

The quality of puttying work largely depends on the correct choice of spatula. Its blade should be of medium hardness, since excessive softness causes excessive deflection of the spatula, and its side edges turn forward. As a result, stripes remain. Therefore, a standard spatula needs to be modified a little by sharpening the corners with a file. At the same time, the end of the blade will become somewhat oval. This will ensure convenience and safety in work, and the finished surface will be of excellent quality.

Video instructions for do-it-yourself ceiling putty

When starting a home renovation, the first thing to decide is the design of the ceiling. It can be arranged in different ways. But almost all options require first leveling the ceiling surface. To eliminate all unevenness and defects, there are several solutions. You will learn the best way to level the ceiling from this article.

Methods for leveling the ceiling

As can be seen from the photo of ceiling leveling, it can be done using:

Advantages of this method:

• Thanks to sheets of plasterboard, you can easily hide quite significant differences in ceiling level.
• GCRs are safe from an environmental point of view.
• Such suspended ceiling allows you to hide communications.
• Plasterboard sheets are easy to process and easy to use. This makes it possible to bring to life quite bold design ideas.

Flaws:

• The suspended structure eats up to 25 cm of the ceiling height.
• The need for power tools.
• This ceiling system requires significant investment.
• It is impossible to install such a ceiling yourself.

To finish the gypsum plasterboard ceiling you will need a level, tape measure, marker, profile, screws and a hammer drill - for mounting the frame, plasterboard and fasteners - for installing the gypsum plasterboard itself ceiling structure, putty and putty knife to seal the joints between the sheets.

Operating procedure

Examine the ceiling. Remove old crumbling plaster. Clean the surface from dust and apply two layers of antiseptic primer. Next you can start marking.

Using a level and marker, draw lines 0.3 m from the walls. Connect the opposite lines, the difference between the pitch and the width of the gypsum board should be no more than 0.2 m.

Following the markings, attach the guides one by one and drill holes at intervals of 0.15 m. Attach the profile using self-tapping screws. The preparations are complete.

Screw the plasterboard sheets to the frame using special fasteners. Go over all joints with putty. All that's left is the finishing touches.

Plaster

Plaster is an excellent choice for smoothing out crooked and uneven flat ceiling with differences of up to 5 cm. It can be:

• cement;
• plaster;
• polymer.

If you decide to level the ceiling with plaster, then you will need:

• Scrapers, brush, chisel, sponge or rags - to remove the old layer.
• Primer mixture, roller or brush - to apply it.
• Building level, tape measure, marker - for marking lines.
• Container, drill with a special attachment - to prepare the mixture.
• Plaster, beacons, spatula, rule.
• Sandpaper.

Stages of work:

Prepare the ceiling. Clean it of old coating and dirt. Apply two coats of primer and install reinforcing mesh if the ceiling is wooden. Next, you can begin installing the beacons.

The first step is to decide on the thickness of the plaster. To do this, using a level, calculate the size of the ceiling collapse and add to it the thickness of the beacon (6-10 mm).

Mark this point on opposite walls at a distance of 0.3 m from the corners of the room. Screw in the screws and pull the thread through. Underneath it you need to screw a couple of screws into the ceiling 0.15 m from the walls. Moreover, they should barely touch the thread.

Then step back 0.8 m and tie the thread again, simultaneously screwing in the next two screws. Thus, it is necessary to mark the entire ceiling surface. Next, prepare the mixture and cut the beacons.

Apply a little plaster between each pair of screws, lean the beacon against it and press it so that it is level with them. Take a break for about 12 hours - the mixture holding the beacons should dry out.

Prepare the plaster. Scoop some of the solution onto a spatula and begin applying a thin layer to the ceiling. Next, apply the main leveling layer.

Take the rule and run it between the beacons several times. There should be no plaster left on the blade. Wait for the composition to set and remove the beacons. Fill the resulting grooves with plaster.

The next step is to align the corners and wall space.

After the coating has dried, you need to apply finishing layer. Optimal thickness covers – 1 mm. Then all that remains is to sand everything down with sandpaper.

Putty

Leveling the ceiling with putty is appropriate if you need to remove small differences, up to 20 mm, and hide minor defects in the form of cracks.

Leveling the ceiling with your own hands is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. The main thing is to choose the right method.

Photo of the ceiling leveling process

It's no secret that there are many ways to create a flat ceiling in rooms for various purposes. Many of them require certain skills from the master, a specific tool, are extended over time, or, conversely, will be possible even for inexperienced “homemade” ones to perform in the shortest possible time.

Today we will try to touch on the most popular options and find out how to best level the ceiling in a typical home. The author of this article’s many years of experience in finishing work will help us with this.

General characteristics of the work

Ceiling leveling work involves certain conditions, which are almost always the same:

• Quite a lot of debris falls on the floor, which complicates work in residential areas. If you have to work in such conditions, we cover the furniture and parquet with a layer polyethylene film to simplify the cleaning task in the future.

• Working under the ceiling always results in stiff arms and neck, especially if you take up the task out of habit. It is very important to choose the right support (horse trestles, table, stepladder) - its height should be enough to easily reach the surface, but at the same time you should not rest your head on the ceiling - ideally, there should be about 30 centimeters from your head to it.

• When making repairs at a sufficient height, you constantly have to climb to the height and descend back. Make sure you have comfortable spot to store the tool (it should not lie underfoot on the sawhorses), for example, a separate platform or installer’s belt can be used to minimize the number of movements. Also organize comfortable staircase so as not to overstrain the leg muscles and knee joints.

• Constantly falling debris on your head, both small and small, is unpleasant and can sometimes lead to undesirable consequences and even injuries. Work in a headgear, sometimes supplementing them with goggles and a mask.

Here are some simple tips to make your job easier. Now let's move on to materials and alignment methods.

It won’t be possible to focus too much on the editing, since then the article will turn out to be very voluminous and inconvenient to read, but we will try to focus on the most important details.

Types of finishing

Stretch ceiling

Let's start with perhaps the most difficult one, in terms of self-made option – . Today it is difficult to find a person who has not met them at least once.

These synthetic products entered our everyday life relatively recently, but they already firmly occupy a leading position and are not going to give them up.

Interesting to know! Having appeared, ceilings made of PVC and fabrics initially became the property of only wealthy consumers - they frankly could not put a price on them. But today this type coverage is available to every person with an average income. The cost of one square meter including installation work does not exceed 300 rubles. Even lining PVC panels will cost a little more.

Such events are quite predictable - the material itself is inexpensive, and innovations always skim the “cream” from the consumer market. But we are of little interest to this; let’s pay attention to the properties of such a coating, some of which can be considered both pros and cons.

• Having opted for PVC sheets, you can safely count on big choice colors and shades to choose the option for the desired style. They come in matte, semi-matte and glossy - each option has its own visual effects.
• If you like natural fabrics, then know that they are not so natural. The fabric threads are impregnated chemical compounds for resistance to moisture and dirt, and themselves, for the most part, are polyester. Such canvases are not distinguished by a variety of colors, but a creative approach allows you to apply real paintings to them.
• Both of these options react differently to water ingress.
• PVC ceilings are completely impermeable to liquids and can serve as excellent protection against flooding from above in rooms where such a risk occurs: bathrooms, kitchens, places where water and sewer pipes pass.

Interesting to know! Stretch PVC ceiling is able to withstand a very large mass in one space square meter. All the water that gets from above will accumulate at one point, forming one huge mound. The liquid can subsequently be drained through a partially dismantled corner or through a hole for a lamp. Just remember to turn off the power to the room first.

• However, this same property does not allow steam to pass through the coating, which disrupts the natural microclimate in the room. Therefore, especially damp places good ventilation must be provided.
• Fabric ceilings, on the contrary, allow water to pass through and do not interfere with gas exchange.
• But the greatest advantage detailed solution is the absence of dirty work and high installation speed.

What is the difficulty of installation if it is done so quickly? Having a specialized tool is the problem. Nobody will buy heat gun for a one-time job, and it’s not always possible to find one for rent.

Plus, don’t forget about the experience that professionals have. In fact, leveling the canvas without practice is not so easy, especially if we are talking about a soldered two-color ceiling, where the unevenness of the seam will be very noticeable.

Our conclusion. An excellent inexpensive solution for installing in already occupied apartments and houses. Yes, there are situations when the canvas bursts from sharp objects or on its own (from excessive structural tension or manufacturing defects), but this does not happen so often, and mainly with cheap Chinese products. For example, a Belgian canvas with good quality It won't cost much more. And yes, always get quality certificates from the installation company and discuss the conditions in detail warranty service by filling out the relevant documents.

Plaster

One of the most common mistakes among ordinary people is the belief that putty can be used to level out significant differences on the walls and ceiling. Sometimes it comes to the point that clients begin to make complaints about poor-quality puttying, they say, you are such amateurs, you cannot correct the work of the plasterers. Funny. Although, when you come across this in practice, it’s no laughing matter.

The maximum that finely ground putty is capable of is a layer of about 5 mm, and then only when applied layer-by-layer. This material is not intended for these purposes.

Its main task is to create a smooth and even surface for subsequent processing (paint, wallpaper). If you try to apply the mixture too thickly, then with a high degree of probability it will soon crack.

The work is not much different from plastering, except that it is not necessary to install beacons, but rather go through the ceiling with a wide spatula or rule, filling small irregularities as tightly as possible, after which the leveling of the ceiling for painting can be considered ready.

What are we leading to? When applying putty, you don’t need to be guided by a level - just make sure that the entire surface looks even in general, sanding off the dried layers and applying new ones if necessary

Frame ceilings

IN separate group we removed all the ceilings on frames. Their essence is very similar and involves the installation of a separately leveled base made of slats, beams or metal profiles.

All frame ceilings can be divided into suspended and suspended:

1. The first ones are mounted on the sheathing, directly nailed to the ceiling;
2. The second ones are installed on the frame, receding from the base at some distance, and resting on suspension systems.

Drywall

So, let's figure out what modern engineering offers us to level the ceiling today. And we will start with the most common option - plasterboard ceilings. Along with describing the materials, let's look at the properties frame structures.

This material is very versatile and suitable for various purposes. For example, probably many of you did not know that it can serve quality basis for tiles.

There are modifications of the product that can be used in dry, damp and even fire hazardous areas. Separately, it is worth mentioning gypsum fiber sheets, which are very durable and endure much better. negative impacts, although outwardly they are not much different from drywall.

• The most important advantage of such cladding is the ability to level the bases with any height differences - from the smallest to the very large.
• Under such a ceiling you can hide various communications: water supply, sewerage, ventilation system pipes, electrical wiring.
• Installation does not require technical education - just a little spatial thinking skills, knowledge of basic requirements and technology, as well as the ability to hold the tool firmly in your hands.
• As already mentioned, this base is suitable for many types of finishes. The cardboard layer of the material has excellent adhesion.
• Among the disadvantages, it can be noted that, like any suspension system, such ceiling alignment takes up some space. Hence, a certain limitation is imposed on the height of the room.

To assemble the frame for drywall, special galvanized steel profiles are used, which can serve perfectly both in dry conditions and outdoors. The fastening system is very well thought out and may seem complicated only at first glance.

Here are the basic elements required to assemble the base in 95% of cases:

• PNP profile– it is also a guide, with an end section of 27x28 mm. The length of this element may vary, but the most commonly sold options are 3 meters - this feature applies to all profiles.

• PP profile– main, load-bearing, longitudinal (call it what you want). Its cross-section is 27x60 mm. It is inserted into the guide and fastened to it with special LN screws or options with a press washer - whichever is more convenient for you.

• Direct suspension– this element is successfully used in strengthening and leveling any frames.

• Single-level connectors - they are also “crabs”. Required for installing jumpers under the seams of sheets. They are designed in such a way that they snap into the PP profile from above, and the free “ears” are bent and secured with self-tapping screws.

• In some rooms (with the length of all walls more than 3 meters) it is impossible to do without a PP profile extension.

Advice! Due to the fact that there are quite a lot of profile manufacturers today, we recommend that you always purchase products as a set from one company, since, despite the standardized sizes, they often differ and do not quite fit the arches to each other.

In general, such frames can also be hemmed, fixed directly to the floors, and they are perfect for different materials, such as: plastic, MDF, lining.

Our conclusion. Great option for any decoration, especially when creating beautiful figured structures on ceilings of sufficient height. Otherwise, we advise you to stop at suspended ceilings, or plaster them.

Lining, MDF and PVC panels

When considering these materials, we will not say anything about their structure, but will only talk about their properties. So, what do we get by covering the ceilings in a room with these materials?

Let's start with lining, as the most noble representative of panels:

• First of all, this material is environmentally friendly and looks very beautiful. It is used mainly when creating eco-style interiors, but sometimes the lining fits perfectly into modern designs, filling the rooms not only with warmth and comfort, but also pleasant aroma forests.
• The material copes well with sound and heat insulation; above it, like over any other frame ceiling, you can additionally place a layer of insulation.
• The properties of the coating directly depend on the type of wood used - some not very cheap options cope well even with humidity.
• The disadvantages of wooden ceilings are as follows: in most cases, they are afraid of water, wood-boring insects, mold and fire. However, when correct processing all these disadvantages can be minimized.

MDF also has a core made of natural wood. Small fibers are impregnated with an adhesive and formed by pressing in special machines.

The material does not require additional processing; it is laminated panels of standardized sizes with a classic tongue-and-groove connection. The outer film most often imitates the texture and color of some type of wood.

Among the shortcomings of the materials, we will immediately highlight the fear of moisture - the panels swell, the film peels off, and low resistance to mechanical stress, although this is not so important for the ceiling. In general, we recommend using only in rooms with low humidity and no temperature changes - the best candidates are corridors, storage rooms, well-waterproofed balconies and loggias

Essentially the same as the options just discussed. The color of this material can be any.

Manufacturers quite reliably imitate many materials - wood, or even tiles. But still, the budgetary nature of the material is very noticeable and upon closer examination, any imitation will be revealed even by an inexperienced eye.

The material is impervious to moisture and can withstand a decent temperature range, but it is worth noting that when overcooled it becomes more fragile. In general, the fragility of plastic is its Achilles heel. It is not uncommon for the surface of the material to break through even with minor efforts. However, we return again to the fact that we are talking about the ceiling.

Plastic is good choice when covering bathrooms, where the available ventilation is often insufficient. Being in such conditions, he will not be afraid of either mold or steam. At the same time, its appearance is very pleasant.

Slat ceilings

Continuing the topic of frame structures, we smoothly move on to the next participant in our review -. Let us immediately clarify that we will be talking about aluminum options.

Wooden models are not much different from simple clapboard cladding, except that they have a slightly different installation method and a more original appearance.

Externally, such ceilings are not much different from those lined with plastic lining, but the structural differences are more than enough.

Let's start with the material itself:

• The slats are rolled from aluminum and are a thin and flexible profile that is sold in coils. This property means that the material is excellent for curved surfaces, as shown in the photo above.

• As a frame, a special profile is used under it, called a traverse, comb, tire or stringer. Its essence is that on the lower part there are contact connections into which the slats are snapped into by reciprocal grooves.

• Along the edges the surface is framed with a guide baguette. The entire structure is supported on suspensions - straight or adjustable, with the structure lowered low.

This ceiling option cannot be called budget, but that’s understandable - non-ferrous metals are always in price. The ceiling itself looks very solid and is not afraid of changes in temperature and humidity, so feel free to purchase it for bathrooms, kitchens, or even for a canopy or gazebo on the street.

Cassette ceilings

Let’s finish our material about ways to level the ceiling. Most often they can be seen in offices, offices and various public buildings.

They are used quite rarely at home, but in some situations it is more than justified. A particular advantage of such systems is the quick disassembly of the necessary areas to access the above-ceiling space, where various communications can pass. This same property means easy replacement individual elements if damaged. Otherwise, all the advantages of suspended ceilings remain.

Such systems are produced in kits along with all the mounting hardware - the most renowned manufacturer is the Armstrong company. Installation is not much different from those already discussed slatted ceilings, but still has some features that are determined by the instructions.

In such ceilings you can place special lamps and even ceiling air conditioners. The only requirement for this decision The ceilings are of sufficient height. You will probably find a model to your liking, and you can carry out the work yourself.

To summarize, let's say that leveling ceilings with your own hands, no matter how difficult it may seem, is still possible. The main thing in this matter is desire, strict adherence to technical recommendations, compliance with technology and compliance with all safety requirements. This is the only way the work will be exciting and the result will be of high quality.

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