How to level a wood subfloor. Leveling a wooden floor without dismantling the boards

Wooden flooring has excellent characteristics, but they also deteriorate over time. To extend the life of a wooden floor, it is necessary to carry out preventive maintenance from time to time. renovation work. If things are really bad - the boards are sagging, there are cracks and deformations everywhere, then you will have to resort to leveling the coating.

Leveling a subfloor is not an easy task, but if you have certain knowledge, skills and materials, you can handle the job on your own without involving expensive craftsmen. The cost of a rough wooden floor depends on its characteristics and performance qualities, so today we will tell you how to make high-quality, durable, and most importantly, even floors with your own hands.

Often subfloors in wooden house leveled for laying laminate or other flooring. This procedure is one of the main ones in the installation process, and the final result depends on it. And it doesn’t matter whether you are going to lay laminate flooring, lay carpet or tile the floor - the surface must be flat. So, on a crooked floor in places where the floorboards bend, even the most durable linoleum Over time, it will crack or wear out, let alone the fancy laminate, which will soon begin to creak and become loose.

How to Level a Wooden Subfloor

There are several effective ways alignment of drafts wooden floors, the price of which is professional craftsmen It can be very intimidating, but if you do everything yourself, you can save a lot!

So, today there are four ways to level the floor:

• putty;
• self-leveling mixtures;
• laying plywood.

The choice of floor leveling method depends on the initial condition of the surface and the desired final result. Let's take a closer look at the features of each method and the work process.

Looping

Sanding is the most effective and most labor-intensive way to level rough wood floors. This method is relevant for those cases if you are not going to lay a new coating on top of the wood, but just want to open the floor with varnish or paint it.

Sanding can be carried out either manually or using mechanics. It is clear that if you have special equipment, then you do not need a manual scraper. Even if you don’t have a car, it makes sense to rent one, because the manual method is irrevocably outdated, as it takes a colossal amount of energy and time. Below we will look at the application of mechanical method scraping.

First of all, take care of safety precautions and get protective plastic glasses, vibration-absorbing gloves (can be replaced with thick mittens) and construction headphones, since the sanding machine is very noisy. Don't forget a respirator to protect your lungs from wood dust.

Progress:

Self-leveling mixtures

Self-leveling mixtures are suitable if you are going to lay laminate flooring. It makes no sense to cycle the surface for this, but to solve the problem with the help special mixtures possible in no time. Don’t be fooled by the name and think that all you have to do is pour the compound onto the floor and it will level out on its own. This labor-intensive process, which, however, results in an ideal base for laminate or tiling.

Progress:

Helpful Tips:

Carefully follow all proportions and rules written on the packaging.

During drying, the recommended thermal conditions must be maintained until the mixture has completely hardened.

If you pour too much water while mixing the solution, the floor may delaminate after drying. If you add too little liquid, the mixture will not be evenly distributed over the floor.

If you want to raise the level of a wooden floor, fill it in two layers, and the first layer should not be too thick.

Putty

Now you know how to level a subfloor for laying tiles and laminate flooring. Putty is not recommended for these purposes, but is ideal if you are going to cover the floor with carpet.

Today in construction stores you can find a lot of putty mixtures based on PVA glue and sawdust. This best option– reasonable cost, ease of use, large coverage area.

Progress:

Leveling the floor with plywood

Leveling rough wooden floors with plywood is the most popular method due to its speed, simplicity and cost-effectiveness.

Progress:

Helpful Hint: To save time and effort when installing a plywood floor, mark with chalk where the joints will be.

Leveling the subfloor in a wooden house with sheets of plywood is perfect for any finishing coating, be it laminate, tile or carpet.

Currently in use various technologies for leveling wooden floors.

How can I fix the surface of a plank floor?

Alignment method	Brief description of the technology
	Used as a base for finishing floor coverings. For minor unevenness, the work can be completed within one working day. If the difference in height is significant, then the repair time increases and additional special structures are required for leveling.
	It is used in cases of natural warping of boards due to violations of flooring technology. Allows you to completely restore the original appearance of the boards and does not require a topcoat.
	It can be performed without removing the boards, making it possible to level the floor both for subsequent flooring with slabs and for grinding and restoring the surface of the boards.
	The most complex process, used in case of significant damage to boards and joists.

pox plate

Leveling wooden floors using slabs in the future involves the use of various finishing coatings. And these are not only additional financial expenses, but also a waste of time. In addition, after leveling, instead of floors made of natural boards, the apartments have coatings made of artificial materials.

Why does the floor become uneven?

During operation, all mistakes made during floor laying appear.

1. Incorrectly set logs. When laying the floor, the outermost joists are first installed, and a rope is stretched between them, along which all the others are laid. If the outermost joists do not lie in the same plane, then the floor will have a slope.
2. The distance between the logs and their dimensions do not correspond to the actual loads. During operation, the most loaded areas sag, the deformation becomes irreversible, and large deflections appear on the floor plane.
3. Very wet or very dry boards were used during flooring. When humidity increases, the floor swells in places; when drying, the boards warp, and cracks appear between them. large gaps.
4. Lack of efficiency natural ventilation or improperly done waterproofing. In such conditions, lumber is affected by rot and loses its original load-bearing capacity, the floor surface sags. The most unpleasant situation is that to eliminate the problems it is necessary to completely change the flooring.

In all the described cases, leveling the floor is necessary, but before starting work, it is imperative to determine the cause of the appearance of unevenness and their nature; this knowledge will help in choosing the right methods.

Determination of the size and nature of floor unevenness

The choice of leveling technology is greatly influenced by the actual condition of the wooden floor. We have already mentioned that rotten boards or joists must be replaced; in this case, we are not talking about leveling, but about replacing the floor. The curvature of the floors must be determined according to three parameters.

1. Horizontally. To check, it is better to use a laser level; if you don’t have one, then a water level will do; in extreme cases, deviations can be checked with an ordinary bubble level. Set the beam laser level horizontally at a distance of approximately 10–15 cm from the floor level. Using an ordinary wooden ruler or tape measure, measure the distance from the floor plane to the laser beam. Do this around the perimeter of the room and in several places in the center. If the slope of the floor is more than a centimeter, then it can only be leveled with the help of additional logs or special stops. It's long and difficult.
2. By deflections. The long rule is to place it on the floor in several places; the deflections are revealed in the light. They can only be in a few metas of the room, below we will talk about possible option eliminating such problems without tearing off boards or using sheets.
3. According to the curvature of the surfaces of the boards. If boards that were too wet were used when laying the floor, they will certainly bend after drying. Apply a rule or level to them and use the light to find out approximately the amount of deflection; the leveling method will depend on its value.

Practical advice. When choosing a technology, always choose one that will preserve natural boards. Such floors are considered to be of the highest quality, constantly fashionable and environmentally friendly. Experienced builders recommend covering the natural floor with various modern materials only in cases where restoration of the original characteristics of the wooden floor is impossible for some reason.

We will consider several options for leveling wooden floors while preserving natural boards and restoring their original appearance. Technologies for experienced builders is not very difficult, but requires a certain skill and set special tools. Options for completely dismantling the boards to level them or replace them will not be considered; this is an extreme case and must be used in exceptional situations.

Alignment of logs

The method can be used when unevenness appears due to subsidence of fragile joists or those installed at a large distance. Moreover, they are made of slats no more than 5 cm thick, laid on a durable concrete base. To work, you will need a screwdriver and drill, large self-tapping screws with a diameter of 8 mm or more, a pen for drilling holes in wood (the diameter of the drill must correspond to the size of the screw heads) and a level. Joists and boards must be in good condition without signs of rotten damage.

Step 1. Find a place where the boards sag, determine the location of the lag. They are found by the heads of nails or screws.

Step 2. Using a drill with a diameter of approximately 5 mm, drill through hole in boards and joists all the way to the concrete base. Measure the distance from the top surface of the floorboards to the concrete base. Separately, find out the thickness of the boards and joists. This can be done after carefully inspecting the hole.

Step 3. Prepare the screws large diameter, decide on their length. The length of the screws should be 10–15 mm greater than the sum of the deflection, the thickness of the log and its distance from the concrete base. Using a grinder with an abrasive disc, cut the tip of the self-tapping screw to the required length. The flat, rather than sharp, end increases the area where the screw will rest on the concrete, which increases the stability of the floor after leveling. The fact that it has become blunt will not interfere with tightening; the hardware is installed in the prepared hole in the joists.

Step 4. Drill a hole in the floorboard with a feather. It should be located strictly in the middle of the log.

Important. While drilling, be careful to ensure that the joist remains intact. The strength of fixation of the self-tapping screw depends on this.

Step 5. Insert a large self-tapping screw into the hole and screw it until it touches the concrete base of the floor. As soon as the end rests on the concrete, unscrew the screw a little and screw it in again. After each repeated screwing in, the joists will rise slightly and the floor will be leveled.

Always monitor the position of the boards using a level. The distance between the screws on the joists, depending on the expected loads on the floor, is within 50–60 cm. After leveling, the holes are sealed and sanded. This leveling method is also suitable for preparing the base for laminate or flexible finishing floor coverings.

Leveling floors made of natural boards using sanding machines

As an example, let’s consider the most complex option – the floor is old, the surface is painted with oil paints, the unevenness of the boards is up to 3 mm. Checking the condition of the surface is determined by the method described above; the integrity of the lumber is beyond doubt. Simultaneously with leveling, the floor is renewed and becomes suitable for use without new coatings.

Step 1. Removing old paint from the floor surface is one of the most difficult and unpleasant operations. Old paint can be removed in several ways:

• chemical There are various special implementations chemical substances. They cover old paint; to prevent too rapid evaporation, the floor should be covered with plastic film. After 10–15 minutes, the paint becomes soft and can be removed with a metal spatula. Disadvantages of this method: you only need to work in personal respiratory protection equipment and non-residential premises, the paint is not all removed due to the difference in thickness. In addition, the floor needs to be treated in small areas, their size should be such that after one soaking you can have time to remove the soft coating. Otherwise, the paint becomes hard again, and you have to start all over again;
• thermal. Special powerful construction hairdryer the layer of old paint is heated and, while it is hot, removed with a spatula. Quite difficult, long and smoky work. The method has more disadvantages than advantages;
• mechanical. To remove paint, special metal cutters with a particularly durable, coarse abrasive coating are used. Discs are fixed on cylindrical grinding wheels electric cars(Bulgarians). To reduce the amount of dust, a cover is put on the grinder, the device is connected to a powerful industrial vacuum cleaner. The most optimal, according to professionals, method for removing old paint.

Step 2. After removing the paint, vacuum the floor thoroughly, do not leave even the slightest residue, as it will clog the sanding wheels.

The floor is vacuumed after paint removal

Step 3. Sink the nail heads into the boards. To do this, use a metal punch and a hammer. If you don’t have a special finisher, you can make it yourself from a piece of reinforcement or wire rod. The length of the finisher is approximately 10 cm; too long is inconvenient to work with. The depth of penetration depends on the size of the floor unevenness and is determined by eye. If the nails are not pierced, their heads damage the sandpaper and Working wheel grinding machine. As a result, the quality of surface treatment deteriorates significantly, in some cases it is necessary to change the drive shaft. Besides, a large number of metal caps causes rapid wear of the abrasive paper, requiring frequent replacement, which increases the estimated cost of the work.

Another problem with protruding caps is that they cannot be puttied; in any case, they will have to be recessed, and after sanding, the surface of the boards can be damaged.

Step 4. Start sanding the floor. This can be done with a grinder or a grinder. In the first case, it is difficult to work, it will take a lot of time, and the premises will become dusty. In addition, the small size of the grinder disc cannot provide a flat surface. Inexperienced builders may leave marks after each pass, which will require additional time to remove. We strongly recommend using grinders. There is no need to buy units for one room; you can borrow or rent them.

You need to sand the floor with three types of sandpaper: coarse, medium and fine. The first is used to level the boards, the second performs final leveling and rough sanding, and the third is used for final finishing.

Step 5. Place some coarse sandpaper on your car. The floor boards need to be leveled in a diagonal direction, and the machine cannot be stopped in one place, it must constantly move.

Practical advice. Do not try to remove large uneven areas in one pass, this is very dangerous and may leave noticeable furrows. If the floor is very uneven, then you need to go over its entire surface several times until final leveling. Without diagonal sanding, waves will remain on the floor surface, remember this rule. As practice shows, leveling will require at least four passes of the machine over the entire area of ​​the room.

Step 6. Powerful vacuum cleaner remove dust from the surface, Special attention Pay attention to the corners around the perimeter of the room and the gaps between the boards. Inspect all the gaps; if you find hard dirt in them, remove it with a metal spatula or other flat object.

Step 7 Prepare putty for sealing genital cracks. You can buy it ready-made in a specialized store or make it yourself. The color of the putty can be a wood tone or contrasting. The second solution is currently considered fashionable style, this method is used to make expensive deck floors. Decide for yourself which option to choose; the leveling technology does not change.

Step 8 Carefully fill all cracks in the floor. Pack the material tightly with a small flat spatula. Do not smear the putty on the surface of the boards, but rather stuff it into the cracks. Remove excess and reuse.

Practical advice. There are several types of putty available: polymer, acrylic and oil. Polymer is the most expensive and of the highest quality; acrylic is suitable in all respects, but less wear-resistant. Oil paint takes a long time to dry and shrinks a lot. You will have to repeat the putty after the first drying.

If you don’t have factory putty, you can make it yourself. In stores there are special liquids for preparing putty mass. Add sawdust collected after leveling the floor with a machine. Never use PVA for putty. The fact is that the glue heated during sanding becomes soft and stretches, and hard-to-remove stripes appear on the floor. You can use wood varnishes; this putty can only be used to seal narrow cracks. It is not recommended to make putty based on drying oil or ordinary vegetable oil.

Step 9 Once the putty has completely dried, begin sanding the floor. The movements should be longitudinal, while alternately changing the sanding paper to a finer-grained one. Thanks to this technology, the surface will be as smooth and even as possible.

Due to its large dimensions, the grinding machine drum type cannot reach restricted areas, areas along walls will have to be sanded by hand. To make work easier, you can use a small surface grinder. Make sure that the quality of floor leveling is the same over the entire surface. Use the same sanding paper numbers as for the drum type machine.

Important. Remember that without electric machines it is impossible to obtain a flat floor of the required quality. Sanding the floor with wooden block not only very tedious, but also ineffective.

Step 10 Use a vacuum cleaner to carefully remove dust. If the room is large, it is recommended to repeat the cleaning the next day. During this time, the dust will settle from the air to the floor; repeated cleaning will prevent it from getting on the paintwork materials.

Finishing

Next, you can begin finishing the smooth and sanded floor. To improve adhesion to lumber and protect them from negative influence moisture, it is recommended to prime the surface. For these purposes, special compositions are used; the specific name of the materials does not matter; all have normal performance characteristics.

The primer performs another very important function - it lifts the smallest pile on the wood. If it is not applied, the floor surface will become rough after varnishing. The primer is applied with a roller, in hard to reach places use paint brush. After drying, you can continue working.

Step 1. Remove any raised lint from the boards. To do this, you need to use P120 sandpaper; larger grains will leave marks. It is recommended to sand the pile by hand, this will ensure the most high-quality execution works To control, you should periodically run your palm over the surface; the boards should be perfectly smooth. Start working from the farthest area and move towards the exit from the room.

Step 2. Remove dust with a vacuum cleaner and vacuum the room twice.

Step 3. Start covering the floor with varnish. For achievement High Quality You need at least two layers of varnish. The second is applied only after the first has completely dried.

Important. While applying varnish, close doors and windows and avoid drafts. They bring dust, which can only be removed from the floor surface by sanding. This means that all work will have to be repeated, which is expensive and time-consuming.

If you do everything correctly, the old floor will not only become smooth, but will also look stylish, taking into account modern requirements for the interior of premises. We will look at how to level a wooden floor using plywood or OSB in a separate article. Let’s say right away that such repairs do not ultimately allow us to have a finishing flooring made of natural boards, and this big drawback technologies.

Answers on questions

How to remove rotten boards?

If there are a lot of them, then everything can be solved simply - use a crowbar and a nail puller, try not to damage only the joists. And if there are only a few such boards, then the leaky ones should be dismantled very carefully. In order not to damage nearby ones, rotten ones should be cut in several places and removed in parts. Never rest the tool on normal boards, do not leave marks on them. As a last resort, you can use wooden spacers, but sometimes they also leave dents.

Is it possible to use a sanding machine to level a wooden floor?

It is possible, but not necessary for several reasons. Firstly, it removes a very large thickness of boards. Secondly, the machine leaves a wide and high untreated strip around the perimeter, remove manually its very difficult. Thirdly, modern grinding machines Using skins with different numbers, they perfectly perform two jobs at the same time. Fourthly, scraping machines dangerous units; a flying metal knife causes complex injuries. Fifthly, knives are often damaged by metal objects.

An old floor may have nails driven in not only above the joists; it is very difficult to notice them. Damaged knives need to be sharpened or replaced with new ones. For turning you will need a special machine; such work cannot be done manually. Search grinding machine or buying new knives is a waste of time and money.

Prices for popular sanding machines

scraping machine

Video - How to sand a wooden floor yourself

Over time, a wooden floor begins to crack and lose its smooth surface. Therefore, sooner or later, owners of houses with such floors face the question of covering them with new material. And to do this, as you know, you first need to make the base perfectly flat.

Of course, leveling a wooden floor is not so easy, but if you follow all the tips and recommendations, then every home craftsman can cope with this task.

General information

Wooden floors are those types of flooring that require constant maintenance, as the wood is susceptible to drying out, warping and cracking. Leveling the wooden covering allows you to eliminate various irregularities that could spoil the new covering in the future.

This applies to both solid flooring materials, such as parquet or laminate, and soft ones - carpet or linoleum.

Leveling floors with your own hands can be done in one of several ways:

• Cycling;
• Using putty and PVA glue;
• Plywood;
• Self-leveling mixture.

Determining the condition of the coating

To choose The right way leveling, it is necessary to determine the condition of the wooden floor.

This is done as follows:

• First you need to check the boards for resistance to rot and insect damage.. To do this, you should tear off one board and inspect its reverse side and the joist. If the board is dry and durable and has no signs of damage by insects, then the floor does not need to be replaced. If areas of decay or cracks are found, then low-quality boards will have to be replaced.
• Then you need to determine how much the floor has deviated from the horizontal. This procedure can be performed using a laser level.

If the floor has a lot of unevenness and deviations from the horizontal, then level it with a self-leveling mixture. If the floor is horizontal, but has surface defects, then they can be repaired with putty or sanded.

Leveling the floor

Leveling using scraping

Looping is one of the simplest and most labor-intensive. Most often it is used in cases where they do not want to cover the wood with other material. Therefore, scraping is especially popular when leveling floors in wooden houses.

This method comes in two types:

• Manual;
• Mechanical.

Manual floor scraping is too labor-intensive and almost always unjustified. The mechanical one is performed by a special scraping machine, which means it is of higher quality. Therefore, if you have a question about how to level the floors in a wooden house, then the best solution would be mechanical sanding, provided that the condition of the coating allows this procedure to be performed.

This operation is carried out as follows:

• Before leveling the floor in a wooden house, it is necessary to prepare the surface. To do this, you need to remove all the nails and buttons that could damage the sanding machine.
• Then all safety measures should be taken, i.e. wear a respirator that will protect against dust and wood dispersion, as well as thick gloves.
• After this, you can begin the scraping itself. You should start the operation from the corner and move in a snake from one wall to another, removing the first layer.
• Hard-to-reach places must be processed by hand scraping.
• It is quite possible that after this the floor surface will not be ideal; in this case, cracks and holes should be repaired using putty, which has a color similar to wood.
• When the putty has dried well, the floor should be sanded again.

Advice!
If a board is too damaged, it can be turned over to the other side.

After scraping work are completed, you should begin removing debris and dust. The surface must be thoroughly vacuumed and before varnishing, wiped with a cloth soaked in a degreaser.

Note!
Leveling can only be considered successful if the entire surface is smooth and free of any irregularities.

Leveling with PVA and putty

IN Lately Home owners are increasingly using the method of leveling floors using PVA glue and putty. This method is the most unusual and innovative. Using sawdust, putty and PVA, a mixture is made to cover the floor. After hardening, it becomes durable and difficult to work with.

Since the price for all components of such a coating is not at all high, it can be called budget solution. In this case, the result resembles chipboard slabs, with the only difference being that liquid putty can penetrate into the cracks. This type of leveling also combines floor insulation.

The work is carried out in several stages:

• First of all, beacon slats are placed on the floor according to the level, similar to beacons for screeds;
• Then the floor is filled with a prepared mixture of PVA and sawdust.
• If it is necessary to apply a thick layer of sawdust, the procedure should be performed in several stages. First, apply the first layer, then, after complete drying, you can apply the second layer. All subsequent layers are applied after the previous one has dried.
• Then all errors must be checked using a level. If any are detected, unevenness should be eliminated by applying additional putty material.

Advice!
To prevent sawdust from absorbing all the moisture from the PVA, you can pre-wet it.

Leveling with self-leveling mixture

If you want to cover the floor with a new material, and not just paint or varnish, then sanding will not work in this case. You will have to use another method of leveling the floor - a self-leveling mixture.

Today there are mixtures on the market that are intended exclusively for leveling wooden floors. They will allow even the most warped floor to find a perfectly flat and smooth surface. In this case, the thickness of the coating will be 0.5-2 cm.

Instructions for leveling the surface using this method are as follows:

• First you need to prepare the surface, i.e. fix all the boards so that they do not wobble. To do this, you can use screws or self-tapping screws. All nail heads must be driven below floor level.
• The next stage of preparation is to sand the surface and remove all remaining varnish or paint from it. If there are large gaps in the floor, they must be sealed using a self-leveling mixture of a thicker consistency than for pouring floors.
• Then the surface should be primed with a waterproof primer.
• After this, the level and thickness of the layer are determined and the bar is installed in doorway, equal in height to the thickness of the future coating.
• Then you need to lay it on the primed floor. reinforced mesh with an overlap of several centimeters. You can secure it using a construction stapler.
• Once the surface is prepared, you can prepare the mixture according to the directions on the package and pour it onto the reinforced floor. The resulting bubbles should be eliminated using a spiked roller. After this, the mixture must be leveled on the floor using a smooth rubber roller.

In the photo - removing bubbles with a roller

Note!
Excessive volume of water can simplify the process, but it will lead to delamination of the coating.

Leveling wood flooring with plywood

This method is extremely common and popular. If you follow the instructions, it will allow you to get a flat surface suitable for covering with any flooring material.

To level with plywood, you must perform the following steps:

• Self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws must be placed along the entire perimeter as beacons at a certain level. Then the floor should be divided into squares with sides of 200-300 mm and beacons should be placed in the corners.
• After the level is set, you need to lay the logs - plywood strips 3 cm wide, attaching them to the floor with self-tapping screws or glue.
• Then you need to cut the sheets into squares approximately 60x60 cm.
• The sheets must be attached to the joists with self-tapping screws, arranging them in a checkerboard pattern.

Advice!
Before installing plywood sheets, you need to pay attention to their ends.
If they delaminate, then the material is not suitable for installation.

Conclusion

Additional information on this topic can be obtained from the video in this article." width="640" height="480" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen">

Conclusion

As we see, modern technologies allow every homeowner to quickly and efficiently level a wooden floor. The main thing is to have at least minor skills in working with the tool and adhere to the instructions outlined above.

For more information on this topic, watch the video in this article.

Restoring an old plank floor is much easier and cheaper than complete replacement coverings. Of course, both the joists and the boards must be strong enough for this, and the damaged areas must not be too large. There are several ways to level a wooden floor, depending on the degree of deformation.

To choose the right alignment method, you first need to accurately assess the extent of the damage. To do this, you need to walk over the entire surface, carefully examine every centimeter of the floor, remove 1-2 boards and inspect the joists. If rotten or bug-eaten areas are visible, serious repairs will be required, with replacement of damaged parts. If the logs and boards are in good condition, without cracks or rot, the floor does not bend or creak under load, and the only defects are peeling paint and a wavy surface, repair costs will be minimal.

Small cracks or squeaks are also not a problem, since such defects are not difficult to eliminate. If the gaps between the boards are wider than 10 mm or there is a noticeable slope of the floor, the wooden surface will have to be covered with sheet material, such as chipboard.

So, if the damage is minimal, the easiest way to level the floor is to treat it with a sanding machine. If you couldn’t rent a machine, you can use an electric planer.

Step 1. Surface preparation

All unnecessary items are removed from the premises, baseboards are removed, and trash is carefully swept away. The protruding nail heads are hammered in using a hammer so that they are recessed into the boards by a few millimeters. Areas of the floor that are loosely adjacent to the joists are additionally reinforced with self-tapping screws.

Step 2. Looping

When working with a sanding machine, you will need headphones and a respirator. Start working from the corner, slowly moving along the wall. Having reached the second corner, they turn the machine around and move in the opposite direction, treating the floor surface in narrow stripes.

Step 3. Seal the cracks

After removing the top layer of wood, all the cracks and cracks in the floor become clearly visible. To seal them, use acrylic putty of the appropriate shade, which is carefully applied and leveled with a metal or rubber spatula.

Step 4. Final floor treatment

After waiting for the putty to dry, the boards are scraped again, then the floor is vacuumed and primed. If the primer is absorbed very quickly, another coat should be applied to properly close the pores of the wood. After this, the boards can be painted or sealed with wood varnish.

In the case where the floor has wavy unevenness due to the deformation of the boards, but is strictly horizontal, it can be leveled using sheet covering - plywood, chipboard, cement-bonded particle boards or gypsum fiber board. Fiberboard is not suitable for these purposes, since over time it takes the form of a base.

Comparison table of sheet materials for flooring

Name	Characteristics	Thickness
Moisture-resistant plywood	High strength, thermal insulation properties, suitable for any finishing coating	From 4 to 24 mm
Cement particle boards (CPS)	Durability, environmental friendliness, non-flammability	From 10 to 32 mm
Chipboard	High strength, sound and heat insulating properties, ease of processing	From 6 to 28 mm
Gypsum fiber boards	Suitable for any coating, has a perfectly flat surface, heat-insulating properties	From 10 to 12.5 mm
OSB	High strength, durability, suitable for any coating	9 mm

To work you will need:

• screwdriver;
• jigsaw;
• self-tapping screws;
• primer;
• acrylic sealant or putty;
• any sheet material for flooring.

Step 1. Preparing the base

The baseboards are removed, the peeling paint is removed from the floor surface, the protruding nails are hammered in, and the cracks and recesses in the boards are filled with putty. Then the debris and dust are removed and the floor is primed.

Step 2. Cutting and adjusting the material

Size chipboard sheet is 250x185 cm, plywood is 125x125 cm, so for convenience the sheets are cut into several parts. Optimal for installation are squares of 60x60 cm; they are less affected by thermal expansion, since the number of damper joints increases. The material is cut with a hacksaw with fine teeth or a jigsaw; so that during cutting chipboard edges did not crumble, you need to stick it along the cut line masking tape. Cutting plywood should be done as carefully as possible to avoid torn edges.

An important point: if, when cutting a plywood sheet, its edges delaminate, the material is not suitable for laying on the floor.

So, the sheets cut into squares are brought into the room, laid out on the floor and adjusted to the size of the base. They cut out the material to fit the existing protrusions or niches, cut off the outer sheets to move the seams, leave technological gaps around the perimeter of the room and damper seams between the squares themselves. To avoid mixing up the elements during installation, immediately after fitting each square must be numbered.

Step 3. Laying the coating

When using waterproof plywood, you can immediately begin laying, but chipboard must be pre-treated with drying oil or covered with 2 layers of primer. The first sheet is laid from the corner, leaving a gap of 1-1.5 cm between the edge and the walls. The length of the screws for fastening should be three times the thickness of the material. Screw in screws in places where the material is in close contact with the board, that is, in the upper part of the wave. If the waves run along each board, you can use sheets with a thickness of 8-10 mm, but if the distance between the waves is more than 20 cm, the recommended thickness is from 16 mm.

The distance between the screws should not exceed 20 cm; The holes for fasteners are first expanded at the top with a drill of a larger diameter so that the heads of the screws are hidden in the thickness of the material. A gap of up to 10 mm is left between adjacent sheets of plywood; the rows are laid with the seams offset by half the sheet. If necessary, you can install a second layer of coating, covering it with whole sheets bottom seams. Both layers are fastened together with self-tapping screws.

Step 4: Finishing

When rough coating laid, the joints between the sheets and the recesses from the screws are covered with acrylic putty or sealant on the same base. Next, use a level to check that the floor is horizontal and that there are no unevennesses. Rough areas are treated sandpaper or sanding attachment, remove dust from the surface, prime. After this, the base is completely ready for laying the finishing coating.

Video - leveling the floor with plywood

If, in addition to the wavy surface, the floor has a noticeable slope, another leveling method is used - attaching plywood to joists. This way you can even out differences from 3 to 10 cm in height and prepare a reliable base for any coating. Beams, strong boards, and strips of plywood up to 4 cm wide are used as lags. The preparation of the base is carried out as standard: everything unnecessary is taken out of the room, the baseboards are removed, the old coating is cleaned, and defects are repaired.

Step 1. Marking the floor level

From the highest point of the base, a mark is projected onto the wall using a level gauge. Step back upward a distance equal to the thickness of the coating and put another mark. Now, using a water level, marks are placed at this height along the entire perimeter and connected in one line. This is the floor level.

Step 2. Installation of logs

If there is a risk of the base becoming damp, a waterproofing film is placed on top of the boards; in other cases, the logs are attached directly to the wooden surface. The beams can be installed both along and across the boards.

The logs are laid flat in parallel rows at a distance of no more than half a meter and fastened with nails. Then, using a level and wooden blocks different thicknesses Each lag is aligned horizontally. To prevent the linings from moving, they are glued together. When all the logs are level, the nails are driven in completely, securely securing the beams to the wooden floor.

The thinner the plywood, the less distance between lags; in places where increased load on the floor is expected, cross members made of beams of a smaller cross-section are additionally attached between the joists.

Step 3. Laying plywood

Sheets of plywood are cut into squares and laid out on joists for fitting. On each square it is necessary to immediately mark the places for fasteners so that during installation you do not drill extra holes. If the material lies neatly and evenly, there are no unnecessary gaps, you can attach it to the joists. Start with the outermost square and gradually move along the row. The screws need to be slightly recessed into the plywood so that the caps are 1-2 millimeters below the surface. Be sure to watch the joints - they should not match anywhere.

Step 4. Installation of ventilation holes

To extend the life of the wooden base, it is necessary to make small holes in the floor for ventilation. In opposite corners of the room, preferably under heating batteries, determine the location for the ventilation grilles and make neat cutouts in the plywood. Install on top ventilation grille, covering the joints with glue or sealant.

Step 4. Finishing the floor

The finished coating is checked with a building level, all joints and fastening points are inspected. If no defects are observed, the seams and recesses from the screws are covered with putty, then the surface is sanded and dust-free. Finally, apply the primer mixture and allow the base to dry.

Dry mixture for floor screed

During the work you will need:

• kneading container;
• construction mixer;
• fiberglass mesh;
• primer;
• putty knife;
• putty;
• polyethylene film;
• stapler

Step 1: Preparing the floor

The boards are cleaned of old paint, greasy stains, debris and dust, the baseboards are removed and thin planks are laid in their place so that mortar does not get into the gaps. The gaps between the floor and the boards, as well as small cracks and recesses, are filled with putty, and the entire surface is primed.

Waterproofing and reinforcement

Lay on the floor plastic film, secure the joints of the overlapping strips with tape, and lay a fiberglass mesh on top for reinforcement. To prevent the mesh from moving and floating up when pouring the mixture, it is fastened to the floor with staplers. In this case, it is very important to hammer in the staples so that the mesh is not pressed tightly against the base. It should be in the thickness of the solution, and not under it, otherwise there is no point in laying it.

Step 3. Pouring the mixture

The dry mixture is poured into a container with clean water, observing the proportions indicated on the package, and stir for a minute construction mixer. Ready composition must be applied and leveled within 15 minutes until the solution begins to harden. The mixture is poured onto the floor and leveled with a wide notched spatula over the entire surface.

Step 4: Finishing

4 hours after applying the screed, the boards along the walls can be carefully pulled out and the joints can be sanded. After this, the surface is ready for any finishing coating.

Sometimes, to level a plank floor, a cement-sand screed up to 7 cm thick is used. But in this case, both the floor itself and the ceilings must be very durable, in excellent condition, which is rare for an old floor.

Video - Leveling a wooden floor

Video - How to level a wooden floor in an old house

When renovating private houses and apartments, it is usually necessary to create a new flooring. In this case, the problem often arises of carrying out additional work to eliminate unevenness and defects in the foundation. The article will tell you how much it costs and how to properly level a wooden floor with your own hands without tearing off the boards.

If the old floor is crooked and unattractive, the coating needs to be replaced. Before doing this, experts recommend leveling it. Why do this?

The quality of installation of any facing product depends on the degree of evenness of the base.

Soft coverings (such as carpet, linoleum) allow for small differences in height. But if possible, it is better to eliminate all defects. Hard materials (such as laminate, parquet) require a perfectly flat base. The slightest irregularities lead to the fact that the structure cannot withstand the load, swells, and quickly wears out. If the differences are large, then laying the parquet will not be possible, then we will insulate it.

Over time, even high-quality wood covering deteriorates: holes and cracks form in it, the structure rots and bends.
Leveling the subfloor allows you to achieve the following:

1. no changes when walking around the apartment;
2. aesthetic appearance final finishing;
3. security normal conditions operation of the finished floor, thereby extending its service life.

Ways to create a level floor

Exist different ways creating smooth linoleum or parquet. Each of them has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. To understand which option is better to choose, you should consider the characteristics of each.

Craftsmen offer the following methods for leveling an old sagging floor without dismantling the structure itself:

To understand what is the best way to level, it is necessary to divide all unevenness into significant (from 2 to 10 centimeters) and insignificant (from 0.5 to 1 centimeter). If the differences are small, you can get by with putty, sanding, or flooring sheet material(Fibreboard, chipboard, OSB, plywood). Significant defects are eliminated cement mortar or laying sheet products on joists.

Leveling the surface with plywood

The easiest method to implement is the one that does not require lags. The work is not difficult. It is carried out according to a pre-designed scheme.

The algorithm for how to level a floor with plywood is described below and on the forum:

1. Install bosses around the perimeter of the walls.
2. Lay out the plywood sheets with a gap of 0.3 to 0.8 centimeters. The indentation is made to prevent bending when thermal expansion, movements of the material.
3. Secure the sheets with self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws at the top point of each product. To simplify the work, experts advise making holes in the plywood in advance.
4. Putty the space between the slabs.

Sometimes logs are additionally used. They are installed along the walls using jumpers and screws. It turns out strip support. The material is spread on top and attached to the joists.

When working with plywood and joists, it is important to remember the following:

• Communication can be hidden under the material;
• before use, purchased sheets must be acclimatized (kept in the room where installation is planned for several days);
• preferably in plywood floor make small holes for ventilation;
• logs increase the floor level to 10 centimeters;
• plywood is allowed to be used as a final covering.

Leveling with liquid self-leveling compounds

Mixtures for creating self-leveling floors can have different composition(polymer, epoxy, methyl methacrylate). The coating is frost-resistant, plastic, and able to withstand temperature changes. Therefore, it is suitable for finishing unglazed balconies and loggias.

Below is how to align correctly:

Wet floor screed

Stores sell ready-made screed solutions. But they are expensive. Therefore, it is better to cook it yourself. To do this, sand, water, gravel and cement are mixed in a certain proportion. The kneading should be tight.

Instructions on how to level with a wet screed are presented below:

• clean the base from dirt;
• cover existing irregularities with cement;
• install beacons;
• pour the prepared solution into the cells between the beacons;
• smooth out the mixture;
• pour wet sawdust on top;
• let the screed dry.

Benefits wet screed are waterproof, high strength. Since the layer is small in thickness, the filling does not particularly affect the height of the room. The disadvantages are that it requires a lot of labor. The solution takes a very long time to dry. The resulting floor is characterized by low sound and heat insulation.

Putty for leveling the floor

To work you will need a mixture of PVA glue and sawdust. You will also need a grinding device. Before you start puttingty, you need to prepare the room: remove furniture, clean the floor.

There are some subtleties of work that you need to know about in order to level it efficiently:

• The composition must be applied so that it rises above wooden surface. After all, shrinkage occurs during drying.
• You cannot putty when sub-zero temperature. In this case, the solution loses its elasticity.
• The humidity of the treated board should not exceed 12%.
• The putty should be applied carefully using a spatula.

Scraping and instructions for its use

Sanding is done if you plan to cover the boards with varnish or paint.

Can be done manually and mechanically. The first option is the most time-consuming and complex. Therefore, it is better to use a special machine. You should work in protective gloves, headphones and a respirator.

Instructions for scraping:

If wooden base became smooth without deformation, it is considered that the scraping was successful.

Thus, there are different ways to level the floor yourself wooden floors. The choice depends on the degree of damage, material finishing, apartment owner's budget. Minor defects are eliminated by puttying, sanding, or using sheets of plywood or fiberboard. Big changes removed using a wet screed or self-leveling mixtures. Watch a video on the topic below.

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