In order to get high quality and beautiful green lawn, it is necessary to pay constant attention to it. When caring for a lawn, the most important operations are regular mowing, watering and fertilizing. Their untimely and incorrect implementation can lead to withering and overgrowing of the lawn, as well as to the appearance of weeds. In addition to basic lawn care operations, there are a number of activities that are carried out only when necessary, including aeration, mulching, soil piercing, debris removal and others.
Mowing is one of the main lawn care operations. The British say that to create a lawn you need to mow it regularly...for a hundred years. The haircut maintains his appearance and is good remedy weed control, since many of them do not tolerate haircuts. Thanks to shearing, plants form additional shoots at the soil surface and grow root system, ensuring the formation of dense turf. The lawn is mowed from mid-spring to mid-autumn, and the frequency of mowing depends on the types of grass used for the lawn, the weather and time of year.
To mow the lawn, you need to use a lawn mower with sharp blades so that you get a normal cut of the grass and it recovers faster and develops better. During the first mowing, set the lawn mower to the maximum cutting height and cut the seedlings at least 6-8 cm, since a low cut slows down the growth of grass and the formation of a lawn is slower. In general, in the first season of creating a lawn, it is not recommended to cut it too often and low, but rather let it develop and get stronger. The grass can grow up to 10-12 cm, and it needs to be cut to a height of 6-8 cm. The cutting height is reduced as the turf strengthens, but not lower than 4 cm on a simple lawn and not lower than 3 cm on a parterre lawn. Cutting lower weakens the plants. It is believed that frequent and high mowing is much better than rare and low mowing.
When mowing the lawn, you can cut no more than 3-4 cm of grass each time. If you miss the next mowing and the lawn is very overgrown, do not mow it at once. An overgrown lawn needs to be mowed in several stages and after a certain period of time, for example, after a few days. When the grass is cut off a few centimeters gradually, it grows back faster and easier.
When using a lawn mower, you must ensure that there are no foreign objects on the lawn that could damage it - stones, wires, etc. Mowing should be done when the soil and grass are dry so that the wheels of the lawn mower do not slip during operation and leave traces, and it itself did not become clogged with wet grass. If the grass on the lawn is flattened, it is lifted with a rake or broom. To ensure that the soil of the lawn is compacted evenly, it is recommended that subsequent mowing be done across the previous one or diagonally.
Mown grass is most often removed from the lawn so that a layer of felt from plant debris does not form on it, which not only looks unsightly, but also leads to grass rotting, especially in damp areas. At the same time, grass clippings left on the lawn return some of the grass to the soil. nutrients, enriches it with organic matter and serves as a kind of mulch. In hot and dry times, it is recommended to leave mowed grass on the lawn to reduce the evaporation of moisture from the soil and thereby make it easier for the grass to withstand drought. After 2-3 days, the mown grass should be removed from the lawn with a rake.
It is better to cut the grass around trees, bushes and other hard-to-reach places with special scissors or trimmers.
After mowing, it is necessary to trim the edges of the lawn so that its boundaries are clear and the shoots and roots of grass do not appear beyond their boundaries. You can use a trimmer, hoe or crescent-shaped shovel to trim your lawn. Often, to prevent the lawn from growing, it is bordered with a border.
The last lawn mowing has great importance for his wintering. The cutting should be carried out at the end of October or beginning of November so that the grass has time to grow 2-3 cm and be no lower than 6~8 cm. Grass that is too tall can freeze in the cold, and grass that is too short will need the missing oxygen.
Watering is a necessary step in lawn care. Moisture affects the growth and development of plants; due to its lack, lawn grass loses its properties and may die. The frequency of watering is affected by weather conditions and soil type. In general, in sunny, dry weather, the lawn, which grows in soil with a medium clay content, is watered once a week, if there has been no rain during this period. Water is especially necessary on light sandy soils with deep groundwater. On such soils, rainwater does not linger in the top layer, and the root system of lawn grasses located in it lacks moisture.
It is better to water at intervals of 3-5 days or when there are clear signs of a lack of moisture for the vegetation, for example, when the grass is withered and faded. Such watering will improve the development of the root system and the lawn will be able to remain without watering longer, maintaining its properties and appearance. It is necessary to take into account the fact that rapid drying of the earth can occur due to poor condition turf and lack of nutrients in it.
Watering is necessary after cutting, fertilizing and overseeding. After mowing, sufficient moisture speeds up the restoration of the lawn, it becomes bright green and fresh. Watering after fertilizing is necessary to dissolve nutrients in the water and, thereby, improve their absorption by plant roots. After sowing, watering promotes rapid swelling and germination of seeds.
In order to reduce the evaporation of moisture that occurs during the daytime, lawns should be watered in the evening. At night, water is well absorbed into the soil and absorbed by the roots located not only in its upper layers, but also in deeper ones. It is necessary to water the lawn abundantly, but at the same time prevent the formation of puddles on it. When watering, at least 10 liters of water per 1 m2 are spent.
There are many methods of watering: using a watering can, stationary ground and underground systems, systems with electronic control, etc. B Lately many irrigation systems consisting of sprinklers have appeared for various purposes, with the help of which you can carry out both jet and drip methods of watering lawns. The choice of a specific irrigation system does not depend on the terrain or your financial capabilities. It must be remembered that watering should be done by drip, and not by a stream from a hose, otherwise potholes will form on the lawn.
Fertilizing is the necessary regular application of mineral and organic fertilizers that have a positive effect on the development of lawn grasses. Top dressing helps compact and strengthen the grass cover, increases its resistance to trampling, drought, various diseases and the appearance of weeds. It is also needed to maintain a bright, uniform color of the lawn.
The frequency of fertilizing depends on the age of the lawn and its condition. Already formed lawns are fed at least twice - in spring and autumn, and young ones can be fed more often, depending on how the grasses develop. For better growth shoots and root systems, plants need nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and various microelements - boron, manganese, magnesium, etc. Their timely application will relieve the soil of a lack of nutrients. It is recommended to use complex mineral and organomineral fertilizers as top dressing.
In spring, it is necessary to apply fertilizers with a predominant nitrogen content, which stimulates the growth of shoots and leaves. They should also contain phosphorus and potassium, which are necessary for plants during this period. The lawn can be covered thin layer compost or rotted manure.
In the fall, when preparing the lawn for winter, it is recommended to apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers as top dressing, which stimulate root formation of grasses, strengthen cellular tissue and increase plant resistance to diseases and low temperatures. At this time of year, the percentage of nitrogen in fertilizers should be minimal to prevent rapid growth of lawn grass, because young shoots are highly susceptible to frost.
Fertilizing the lawn should be carried out after mowing in calm weather, evenly scattering fertilizers in the form of granules or powder by hand or introducing them into the soil using a seeder adapted for this purpose. After fertilizing, the lawn needs to be watered.
Mulching is covering the surface of the lawn with a fertile layer, which is used as rotted manure, peat, compost, leaf humus, crushed tree bark, etc. This activity is carried out with the aim of replenishing nutrients in the soil and increasing its fertile layer, reducing the evaporation of moisture from the soil, increasing the density of the grass, filling in any irregularities in the lawn. A layer of mulch at least 8 cm thick prevents the germination of weeds; to do this, it must be scattered over the damp soil surface in the spring.
Mulching is carried out in early autumn after mowing and clearing the lawn of mown grass. Mulch is evenly scattered over the surface of the lawn. Can be done special mixture for mulching, the composition of which depends on the type of soil on your site. We must remember that all components included in such a mixture must be dry and loose. If the soil is normal, the mulching mixture should consist of peat, sand and the soil itself (3x3x4). For sandy soils - from peat, fertile soil and sand (4x4x2). For clay soils - from sand, fertile soil and peat (5x3x2).
Piercing the soil is necessary to maintain optimal water conditions and improve drainage of an already formed lawn. Piercing is done in spring and autumn in those places where water stagnates after snow melts and rains. It helps drain excess water into the deep layers of the soil and prevents the lawn from getting wet. It is especially important to pierce the soil in the fall, when the top layer is greatly enriched with moisture after frequent autumn rains. Heavy soil moisture can lead to the formation of a crust of ice on its surface during the first frost, which has a bad effect on the root system of plants during winter.
The lawn is pierced in dry weather to a depth of 10-25 cm. For this, ordinary garden forks are used.
Lawn aeration is carried out to maintain gas exchange in the soil and better penetration of oxygen to the root system of grasses. These processes are disrupted as the lawn is used and the soil underneath becomes compacted, thereby slowing down the growth of grasses.
To aerate the lawn, you can use garden forks, sticking them into the soil every 10-15 cm and rocking them a little. They also use a toothed and cutting aerator and new generation aerators that have steel knives of different shapes that loosen well upper layer soil. It is not necessary to treat the entire lawn; you can aerate mainly in heavily compacted areas.
Thinning not only improves the aeration of the topsoil, but also helps maintain the required density of lawn grass. This event is carried out when the lawn is heavily overgrown and consists of removing part of the plants. This will improve the nutrition, development and growth of the remaining grass. As a rule, thinning has to be done on a young lawn when the seed requirement is exceeded during sowing, or on a mature lawn when the grass growth is too active and uneven.
Thinning is carried out as needed, from mid-spring to mid-autumn; it cannot be combined with mowing the lawn. For thinning, an iron rake or a new generation aerator is used, and after that, fertilizing is applied and the treated area is watered.
Clearing debris is necessary throughout the season to maintain normal water-air conditions on the lawn. In the spring, it is carried out after the snow has melted, tidying up the surface of the lawn after winter and freeing it from dry leaves and shoots; in summer - after mowing, removing the mown grass; in the fall - freeing the lawn grass from fallen leaves. If you do not clear the surface of the lawn from grass, leaves and needles, a layer of felt will form on it, which does not transmit light, water and air well, which leads to the development of diseases. It is necessary to remove all objects from the lawn so that the grass underneath does not die.
The lawn is cleared of debris using ordinary garden or fan rake, broom. If the soil is damp, you need to wait until the top layer dries out. Comb the grass in two directions, then feed and water the lawn.
Overseeding is needed if there are areas on the lawn with burnt out, dead, sparse or overgrown grass, as well as if its surface has been damaged by a mole. Overseeding is usually carried out in April or September. Depending on the reasons why overseeding is necessary, it is done in two ways.
The lawn where the grass has become sparse must be loosened to a depth of 1-1.5 cm using a rake or aerator. Seeds for sowing must be mixed with fertile soil in a ratio of 1x2. Scatter the resulting mixture evenly over the entire lawn with your hands and water well.
If individual damaged areas appear on the lawn, the grass on them must be mowed and removed, and the soil must be loosened with a rake to a depth of no more than 15 cm and the surface leveled. After sowing the seeds, the areas should be compacted using a roller or a sheet of plywood and the entire lawn should be watered.
The sown areas should be watered regularly for two weeks.
Removing weeds and moss. Weeds and mosses that appear on the lawn often cause a lot of trouble. Weeds generally do not tolerate haircuts, as it prevents them from becoming seeded. If you regularly mow, fertilize and water the lawn, the grass will quickly grow, thicken and thereby suppress the development of weeds. Of course, some of them still appear and then they are fought with other methods - mechanical and chemical.
Mechanical method weed removal is a well-known weeding that is done manually or using special devices for pulling out weeds by the roots. Such devices can be purchased in specialized stores. After you have pulled out the weed by the roots, the turf around this area should be compacted, being careful not to damage the neighboring grasses.
The chemical method of removing weeds is the most effective and is most often used before planting lawn grass. It consists of treating weeds located in the area chosen for the lawn, or on an already formed lawn, with selective herbicides. Lawn herbicides act on broad-leaved plants without harming cereal grasses. Most herbicides come in the form of a concentrated liquid that must be diluted with water. Chemicals are sprayed using a sprayer or watered with a watering can with a fine nozzle so that the splashes do not fall on neighboring plants. The substance travels through the leaves and stems to the roots of plants. Herbicides do not decompose immediately and remain effective for several days. If it is necessary to sow seeds in the treated area, this should be done no earlier than after 2-3 weeks. Mowing is carried out no earlier than 3-4 days after the application of herbicides, so that they have time to reach the root system of the weeds. After mowing, weed leaves do not absorb the herbicide, so weed control during this period is useless.
When using herbicides, you must comply with the requirements specified in the instructions, and in no case increase the doses specified therein. It is not recommended to use the chemical in windy conditions, as splashes of the product will scatter throughout the entire area; Herbicides should be applied in good weather so that they are not washed away by rain.
Let's give an example of the action of the most common drug - Roundup. It destroys weeds such as sow thistle, dandelion, wheatgrass, coltsfoot, nettle, plantain, etc. Roundup is absorbed by the leaves of these plants and penetrates to the roots, causing the weeds to die. In the soil, the drug quickly decomposes and is not absorbed by the roots of other plants.
Mosses often appear on the lawn in the spring, at first hardly visible on its surface. But pretty soon they grow, forming large yellowish spots among the lawn grass. Unlike weeds, which develop on the lawn after seeding, moss germination is caused by various reasons, including: lack of nutrients in the soil, deterioration of the turf due to diseases and various pests, poor drainage, lack of necessary aeration, lack of light, very low mowing. All these negative phenomena weaken the turf, the grass becomes sparse and makes room for moss.
If a lack of nutrients is detected, the surface of the lawn must be mulched with humus and fertilized in the form of mineral fertilizers. To prevent moss from appearing on your lawn, water it regularly and check drainage system, and if necessary, pierce the soil. Do not mow the grass too low - this weakens it and makes it easier for moss to grow.
To combat moss, it is recommended to use a solution of iron sulfate. They treat the lawn in the spring, immediately after the snow melts, 40-80 g per 1 m2. After this procedure, after 8-10 days the moss turns black and dies, and it is collected from the lawn with a rake.
If the lawn is heavily infested with mosses, selective herbicides and lawn mixtures that include ammonium sulfate, ferrous sulfate and delimed sand are also used.
After you have created a beautiful lawn on personal plot, you need to pay close attention to lawn care. The main lawn care activities will be:
- regular haircut (2-3 times a week).
If necessary, you need to carry out a number of additional measures to keep your lawn in excellent condition:
Overseeding lawn grass,
Lawn mowing- the most important event lawn care. Lawn mowing is necessary to give your lawn a beautiful appearance. Mowing the lawn removes weeds. Some of the weeds that are present in lawns do not tolerate mowing, so with regular mowing of the lawn, this part of the weeds dies, which gives your lawn a unique look. Thanks to mowing, the root system of your lawn grows, plants produce additional shoots, thanks to which your lawn takes on the appearance of a uniform canvas.
Lawn mowing period:
Lawn mowing should begin in mid-spring and finish by mid-autumn. The frequency of mowing the lawn depends on the types of grass that were used to create the lawn. The last mowing of the lawn should be done at the end of October - beginning of November, and it is necessary that the grass has time to grow 3 centimeters and be at least 6-7 centimeters, since grass that is too tall will freeze in the frost, and grass that is too short will need oxygen due to lack of which in the spring your lawn may take on the appearance of a yellowed canvas.
To mow the lawn, you must use a lawn mower with very sharp blades. A good lawn mower allows you to get a good cut of the grass, which allows the green cover to quickly recover and develop well.
At first lawn mowing the lawn mower needs to be adjusted and the maximum cutting height for the lawn should be not lower than 6-8 centimeters. With a lower grass cut (below 6 centimeters), grass growth will be slowed down, and therefore the subsequent development of the lawn will be slower. In the first season of establishing a lawn, try not to mow the lawn too often and low - you need to give the lawn time to develop. When the lawn grass grows to 10-12 centimeters, take a lawn mower and cut the grass to a height of 6-8 centimeters.
The cutting height of the lawn depends on the type of lawn and can be not lower than 4 centimeters on simple lawn and not below 3 centimeters on ground lawn . If you mow the lawn below 3 centimeters, this can lead to weakening of the plants - it is better to mow frequently and high than to mow the lawn sparsely and very low.
When mowing the lawn, it is best to cut the grass gradually - cut no more than 4 centimeters each time. The fact is that with a gradual and small cut, the grass recovers much faster and easier. Conduct haircut strongly overgrown lawn The best way is to do it step by step - after a few days, cutting off no more than 4 centimeters of grass each time.
Mowing with a lawn mower must be carried out on a lawn freed from various debris: stones, sticks, hills left for moles; lawn mowing should be carried out only in dry weather. If the lawn grass is very flattened, it needs to be lifted rake.
The mown grass must be removed from the lawn after two to three days with a rake.
To avoid the lawn from growing, it must be separated with a special border.
Watering the lawn - An important step in caring for a newly created lawn.
Regularity of lawn watering depends on weather conditions and the type of soil in which it grows. If there is some clay in the soil, and the weather outside is dry and sunny, then the lawn should be watered once a week, as clay helps retain moisture in the soil. If the soil is light sandy and the groundwater table is deep (precipitation in the form of rain does not linger on such soils), then watering the lawn must be done after 3-5 days.
It is better to water the lawn after mowing (to speed up the restoration of the lawn), fertilizing (watering promotes better dissolution and absorption of applied fertilizers by the lawn) or overseeding the lawn grass (watering is necessary for the speedy germination of seeds).
Time to water the lawn - you need to water the lawn abundantly, but without forming puddles, and in the evening. It is best to use a system consisting of sprinklers allowing for drip irrigation, which will prevent the formation of puddles and washouts on your lawn.
Lawn feeding- an important event lawn care. The application of fertilizers affects the development of the lawn, as it helps strengthen it and increases the lawn’s resistance to drought and diseases. Regular fertilization of the lawn with fertilizers helps maintain a uniform color of the lawn.
How often should you feed your lawn?
The frequency of fertilizing the lawn depends on the age of the lawn itself and its condition:
Young lawns are fed as the grass cover of the lawn develops,
It is especially important to puncture the lawn soil in the autumn, when regular rains cause puddles to form on the soil.
The lawn must be pierced in dry weather using a pitchfork or a special cultivator attachment. The depth of piercing is carried out to a depth of 15-25 centimeters.
Lawn aeration necessary for better penetration of oxygen to the roots of the lawn. Due to severe soil compaction, lawn development slows down.
Overseeding lawn grass- necessary if you notice areas on the lawn damaged by moles or areas with dead, sparse grass. Overseeding
WATERING should only be carried out as needed. Remember that excess moisture is often more dangerous than its lack. Even in dry conditions hot weather You should not water your lawn more than 2-3 times a week. The lawn should dry well from one watering to the next. However, watering must be abundant (at least 15 l/m2) in order to completely saturate the soil with water.
After laying a new finished lawn, watering should begin immediately. From installation to watering, no more than 1 hour should pass on a sunny day and no more than 2 hours on cloudy weather. The lawn should be watered evenly over the entire area at the rate of 10-20 l/sq. m. depending on the moisture content of the lawn and the soil underneath it. Pay special attention to watering the edges of the covered area and areas located in open, sunny places. It is very important. We can say that a liter of water poured onto the lawn in the first hour after laying is more beneficial than five liters a few hours later.
MOWING should be carried out as often as possible. Mowing the lawn once a week is usually sufficient, but parterre lawns and golf courses are mowed daily. Optimal height mowing - 4-6 cm. In hot periods (and always in shaded places!) the mowing height should be slightly increased and the frequency reduced. Do not remove more than 1/3 of the grass height in one mowing. It is very important to ensure that the mower blades are always sharp.
LAWN CARE INSTRUCTIONS BY SEASON
January February
In winter, there is a great danger of the lawn freezing. With the first frost, the grasses enter a period of winter dormancy. The lawn should no longer be disturbed. Lawn grass is more susceptible to freezing than other grasses natural structures. If the grass cover is subjected to stress in winter, then maintaining it in perfect condition is out of the question. In the spring, with the beginning of the growing season, such a lawn looks deplorable.
Places that have been stressed become brown. Lawn mowing is postponed indefinitely because... its natural recovery will take a long time. In this case, damage to plant tissue becomes a source of various diseases. This weakens the plants.B winter time It is not recommended to walk on the lawn until there is sufficient snow cover. If the lawn is not exposed to stress in winter, then low temperatures and unfavorable climatic conditions will not harm it.
During the winter months and early spring there is usually a stable snow cover. If there is a good layer of snow 20-25 cm high on your site, it will protect lawn grasses from freezing and will be a good source of moisture in early spring. With thinner snow cover and very low temperatures air, especially in regions with strong winds, it is recommended to artificially increase the thickness of snow in the area - “snow retention”. To do this, install small shields on the lawn perpendicular to the prevailing wind direction, or distribute the snow over the area after clearing the paths.
Some owners country houses They set up skating rinks on the lawn in winter. Experts do not recommend doing this, because... the threat of freezing of lawn grass increases. The quality of the lawn is deteriorating sharply, because... In addition to leaves and shoots, the top layer of soil also freezes, damaging the root system, the main part of which is concentrated in this layer of soil.
In winter and early spring, during thaws, an ice crust forms on the surface of the snow cover. Its long-term preservation negatively affects the air exchange of plants, which inhibits the development of lawn grasses due to lack of oxygen. It is necessary to destroy the snow crust with a roller or rake.
March
During snow melting, do not allow the area to become waterlogged for a long time, and avoid the formation of puddles by pricking wet areas with a plain or hollow-toothed fork. It is recommended to carry out drainage works in the fall. Minimize all movements on damp lawns, as... there is a high possibility of the formation of ruts, tracks and potholes (especially on young lawns).
April
With the onset of stable positive temperatures, plants should be fertilized in the spring with complex fertilizers with a predominance of nitrogen. This nutrient, combined with phosphorus, potassium and microelements, will ensure the speedy regrowth and restoration of the lawn after winter. The fertilizer application rate is usually indicated on the packages.
The prepared fertilizer should be evenly scattered over the melting snow on the lawn.
After the top layer of soil dries out, it becomes necessary to “comb” the lawn or ferticulate, i.e. removing dry and rotten leaves and shoots, as well as felt formed during the autumn-winter period. To do this, it is recommended to use an ordinary rake and move along and across the area, combing out the felt or ferticulator, adjusting it so that it only “scratches” the soil. It is enough to carry out ferticulation in one direction. These measures also ensure loosening of the lawn surface, which creates favorable conditions for air exchange in the root layer of the soil and prevents the occurrence of various diseases.
After this, overseeding is recommended on thinned lawns. To do this, it is recommended to mix the seeds with soil at the rate of one part seeds and two parts fertile soil. At the same time, reduce the seed sowing rate by 40-50% of the recommended rate for clean sowing. Then spread the mixture evenly over the surface of the lawn and water the entire area.
If you did not have time to fertilize while the snow was melting, then this can be done after the above operations.
May
At this time of year, it may be necessary to mow the lawn for the first time, so when the grass grows to a height of 8-10 cm, mow at a height of 5-6 cm, always with a lawn mower with a grass catcher. Don't leave plant debris on the surface - this can lead to rot, and don't mow too low - allow the lawn to recover after winter.
Prepare your irrigation system for infrequent rainfall.
In damaged areas of the lawn (freezing, soaking), reseeding can be carried out. To do this, remove all plant debris from the surface of the damaged area. If you notice that at this place for a long time there was standing water, then level the surface by adding and compacting soil brought from another place. Loosen the sowing area with a rake or ferticulator. Sow seeds (30 - 50 g/m2) by mixing them with dry peat or dry soil and scattering the mixture over the surface. To get better germination, add a starter lawn fertilizer to the mixture. Compact the overseeding area using a roller.
Water the entire lawn. Do this in the evening, preferably on the day of overseeding.
If areas of lawn disease are detected, urgent measures are needed to improve its health and prevent their spread.
If after ferticulation in April no changes for the better are observed, and after fertilizing and the first mowing the grass is still affected, then there is a need to take radical measures to improve the health of the lawn. Move as low as possible over the affected area. Deeply, up to 15 - 20 cm, loosen the top layer of soil (it is advisable to dig up with a turnover of the layer). Let the soil “rest” and after 7-10 days sow a grass mixture similar in composition to your crop. If you need urgent “repair” of your lawn, use fast-growing grass varieties.
June
This month you can already focus on mowing and watering in combination with other less regular activities (trimming edges, mulching, etc.). When mowing, use mowers with sharp blades, because a poor-quality cut leads to the death of the top part of the plants and your lawn takes on a brown tint.
If you do not have the opportunity to regularly water, it is recommended to leave the mowed plant residues on the surface of the lawn for 1-2 days or use a lawn mower with a mulching effect - this reduces moisture evaporation on hot summer days. Carry out mowing as the grass grows to a height of at least 4 cm, because Mowing too low can damage the density of the grass stand and allow weeds to quickly develop.
If the grass grows significantly, in order to reach the required level, it is recommended to carry out several haircuts at intervals of 3-5 days, cutting off no more than 4 cm of the grass cover or no more than 1/3 of the plant. After each mowing, water the entire lawn, and also water between mowings in persistently dry and hot weather. To reduce moisture loss from evaporation, watering should be done in the evening, abundantly, but not to such an extent that puddles form.
If you want to achieve the effect of “multi-colored stripes,” then mow the lawn grass with a mower with small rollers. It is the direction of light “laying” of grass when passing in different directions that allows you to achieve a similar effect.
The nutrients that grass receives from the soil and which are removed along with mown plant residues can be replenished with the next application of complex fertilizers. Do this in early June or earlier if you notice plants wilting or changing from dark green to light green.
July
This is the hottest month of the year. Winds and scorching sun have a noticeable effect on the development of plants. Due to the lack of moisture at this time, the growth of lawn grass slows down, and there is a danger of “burning out” areas of the lawn, i.e. death of plants as a result of withering and drying of shoots and leaves. The only way out in this situation and the main method of lawn care is irrigation.
Watering must be done at intervals of several days (3-5) or immediately after the first signs of lack of moisture appear: wilting, loss of green shine. The most useful and effective for lawns is evening irrigation. At this time, moisture loss from evaporation is significantly reduced and the top layer of soil is completely saturated overnight, providing access to moisture to the entire root system of plants. Lawns should be watered generously, using drips rather than streams, avoiding the formation of puddles. It is important (especially on slopes and young areas) that watering is carried out by drip, and not by a stream from a hose, in order to avoid the formation of potholes.
If at the beginning of summer you did not have time to fertilize, then do it now. At proper care Lawn care and regular mowing remove nutrients from cut plant debris. The balance of nutrients in the top layer of soil is achieved by regular fertilizing, i.e. application of complex fertilizers containing easily digestible forms of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and microelements. On hot summer days, you can reduce the evaporation of moisture from the surface of the lawn by mowing the lawn with a mower without a hopper.
As the lawn is used, the soil gradually becomes compacted, which makes it difficult for air oxygen to penetrate the root system and creates conditions for the accumulation of carbon dioxide in the top layer of soil. All this slows down the growth and development of herbs. To maintain optimal gas exchange, treat the lawn with a toothed or cutting aerator, or you can also use a garden fork. Do this in spring and summer. The number of treatments per season depends on the degree of soil compaction. It is not necessary to treat the entire area; you can do this only in noticeably compacted areas.
August
At the end of summer, owners of Moorish lawns need to carefully monitor their blooming lawn and if there are gaps in flowering (many annuals have flowered, and perennials have not yet begun to bloom), mowing is possible. It is recommended to mow Moorish lawns to a height of at least 8 cm and it is recommended to use manual petrol or electric mowers. Your lawn does not require any other care. If possible, water and do not forget to fertilize in the fall. If the mowing is carried out before September, then immediately after mowing it is possible to apply fertilizing - this stimulates the development and flowering of the lawn during the fall.
Weeds on the lawn cause a lot of trouble. Most weeds cannot tolerate cutting; after mowing, lawn grass bushes faster and grows back, suppressing the development of weeds, so while fertilizing, try to regularly trim and water the lawn. Regular watering and mowing are the simplest measures to control weeds. If after this the most viable weeds still appear, then they will be destroyed special devices for pulling out weeds by the roots (they can be purchased at a specialty store), and chemicals, i.e. selective herbicides
September
This month it becomes cooler, and with the arrival of autumn rains comes... optimal time for “repairing” the lawn. If your lawn has undergone the regular maintenance measures described above, then you should not worry, continue to do them. If you find thinned areas on the lawn or burnt-out areas overgrown with weeds, then reseeding is necessary. This is easy to do in the afternoon. Reseeding of affected areas should be carried out according to the following scheme:
- Mow damaged areas low and clear them of grass clippings
- Loosen the top layer of soil to a depth of 15 cm using a rake or cultivator
- Level the surface
- Sowing the seeds
- Roll or compact the top layer of soil (roller)
- Water the entire area, not just the oversown areas.
Overseeding thinned lawns:
- Rake the lawn to loosen the top layer of soil to a depth of 1-1.5 cm, without being afraid of damaging existing plants.
- Before overseeding, mix the soil with soil at the rate of one part seeds and two parts fertile soil. At the same time, reduce the seeding rate by 40-50% compared to the recommended seeding rate for clean sowing
- Spread the mixture evenly over the surface of the lawn, scattering it with your hands
- Water the entire area.
October
The main activity is the application of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers as top dressing. These nutrients stimulate root formation of herbs and strengthen cellular tissue, increasing winter hardiness and disease resistance of plants. After the next mowing, scatter these fertilizers evenly with your hands or use a special seeder and water them.
If you use a complex fertilizer, choose one in which the proportion of nitrogen is minimal. Nitrogen stimulates the formation of plant cells, active growth of lawn grass occurs and young shoots become easily susceptible to frost and subsequently frost.
To maintain the optimal water-air regime in the soil of an already formed lawn, it is recommended to pierce the soil. This treatment helps drain water into the deeper layers of the soil and prevents the lawn from getting wet due to frequent autumn rains. Pierce the area in dry weather to a depth of 10-25 cm, using ordinary garden forks. Special hollow-tooth forks are recommended to be used once every 2 years.
In autumn, in wet weather, the top layer of soil is enriched with moisture, which, when frost sets in, sometimes leads to the formation of a ground-in crust, i.e. layer of ice on the soil surface and up to 10 cm in depth. This has a detrimental effect on the root system of plants - as a result, they do not tolerate winter well. To avoid this, drain (prick) and aerate the top layer of soil in order to drain water into deeper layers and ventilate.
November
Important for wintering the lawn has the last cut. It should be carried out at the end of October or beginning of November so that the grass has time to recover and grow by 2-3 cm. The height of the grass should be at least 6-8 cm. Too tall grass is susceptible to freezing and damping off, and too short one is weak and will suffer from lack of respiration - the leaf surface for oxygen absorption is too small.
Fallen leaves due to wind and rain end up on the lawn. Falling leaves cover the lawn like a blanket, making it difficult for the grass to access light. Plants turn pale, and with frequent rainfall they become more susceptible to rotting and getting wet along with fallen leaves. Remember that mown grass, fallen leaves, needles of coniferous trees lying on the surface of the lawn for a long time, as well as waste products of animals and birds lead to the formation of a layer of felt that is poorly permeable rainwater, interferes with the ventilation of the lawn. The constant moisture of this layer in autumn and spring contributes to the development of diseases and a decrease in winter hardiness. At this time of year, do not forget to promptly clean the lawn after haircuts and leaf fall.
December
With the first frost, the lawn goes into winter dormancy. Eliminate any stress - do not walk on the lawn until a stable snow cover has formed. Do not disturb the developing snow cover on your site. It is better to ski, play for children, and walk with pets when the snow height on the lawn is 20-25 cm.
In areas and windy areas with a low layer of snow, carry out snow retention in order to increase the grass's resistance to freezing. Sometimes in winter sleet or rain falls, after which the snow cover of the area becomes covered with an ice crust, which prevents the penetration of air oxygen to breathing plants and promotes the accumulation of carbon dioxide in the layer of snow under the crust - this leads to “suffocation” of plants. Destroy the ice crust using ordinary rakes and other tools.
Pay special attention this month, and in winter in general, to the preparation of equipment - clean all tools and lubricate rubbing parts. Perform maintenance on mowers with an engine according to the operating instructions.
| April | — Removing debris and dry grass |
| May | — Rolling after thawing of the soil — Carrying out aeration — If necessary, sanding and overseeding. Replacing damaged areas of the lawn with a new finished lawn — After the 1st or 2nd mowing — fertilizing with complex fertilizer |
| June | — Weed control - In the 2-3rd decade - the second fertilizing with complex fertilizer |
| July | — Feeding with complex fertilizer in the middle of the month — Treatment with fungicides when signs of disease are detected — End of July — best time for overseeding |
| August | — If necessary, fertilizing in the first half of the month — Weed control — Repeated treatment with fungicides — Overseeding, removal of felt |
| September October | — Carrying out aeration — Sanding, liming — Application of autumn fertilizer — Cleaning up fallen leaves — Treatment with fungicides — At the end of October, if necessary, it is possible to carry out pre-winter sowing |
The lawn is the main background element of the garden and often takes up half, or even more, of the area of the plot. Any country property is now unthinkable without it; it is an integral attribute landscape design. However, often upon arrival in April-May at his country house, the owner discovers that the living carpet is not green at all and looks completely different from what he imagined. To minimize problems with your lawn, you should always remember that lawn grasses require attention, just like other plants.
First of all, it is advisable to use, whenever possible, grass mixtures suitable for this type plot. The mixtures include specific subspecies that have different natural requirements, grouped according to the rate of growth and development, and various reactions to stress factors. For example, if the area is in partial shade, then you need to sow a grass mixture with a predominance of red fescue or bluegrass. Branded packaging usually indicates the purpose of the grass mixture (lawn - “universal”, “for shaded areas”, “ground floor”).
At the end of March - beginning of April, it is necessary to ensure that the snow on the lawn melts evenly. Avoid prolonged waterlogging of the area and avoid the formation of puddles. If there are drifts and piles of snow, they should be evenly distributed on the lawn. It is advisable to minimize all movements on a damp lawn - there is a high possibility of the formation of ruts, marks and potholes, especially on young lawns. To prevent overwatering, it is a good idea to drain the area in advance.
All plants require nutrition, especially in the spring, when the growing season begins, and the cereal grasses that make up the lawn are no exception. It is advisable to feed the lawn three times a season. In spring and summer with a predominance of nitrogen, in the fall - potassium. With the onset of stable positive temperatures in April after the snow melts, spring fertilizing with complex fertilizers with a predominance of nitrogen should be carried out on the site. This nutrient, combined with phosphorus, potassium and microelements, will ensure the speedy regrowth and restoration of the lawn after winter. The consumption rate is from 30 to 50 grams per square meter. Typically, the application rate of fertilizers is indicated on the packages. It is better to do this before the grass begins to grow. If greenery has already appeared, then make sure that the lawn does not burn from fertilizers under the influence of the sun. In this case, it is best to water the lawn with water so that the granules dissolve faster. You can spread fertilizer by hand, but it is labor-intensive and most likely it will turn out unevenly. In this case, it is better to use a multi-row mechanical seeder - this will save time and you can regulate the flow rate. The seeder is made of a box with a holder on wheels; There are holes at the bottom of the drawer, the size of the holes can be adjusted.
After fertilizing the lawn, some time should pass (about a week and a half). During this time, the fertilizer granules will dissolve and the top layer of soil will dry out. After the top layer of soil dries, it becomes necessary to “comb out” the felt and other plant debris formed during the autumn-winter period, as well as to destroy the crust formed on the lawn after winter. These procedures are called verticulation (vertical movement when lifting the felt onto the surface of the grass) and scarification (from the Latin scarifico - I scratch). Felt often causes grass diseases and promotes the colonization of harmful insects. Verticulation and scarification ensure loosening of the lawn surface, creating favorable conditions for air exchange in the root layer of the soil and preventing the occurrence of various diseases.
To carry out these activities, it is recommended to use a rake (or a verticulator configured so that it only “scratches” the soil). First, a twisted rake is passed along the lawn along and across the area (in some cases several times), collecting plant debris in heaps. Then, with slightly less effort, this is done with a fan rake. It is recommended to use the collected plant residues as an addition to compost. Small plant debris that cannot be collected by hand can be removed using a garden vacuum cleaner. Vacuum cleaners are manual and self-propelled; electric and gasoline are the solution to many problems. Using a vacuum cleaner you can easily collect almost any small debris and plant debris, for example fir cones, fallen needles - blowing them into a heap and then sucking them inside. Using technology will help save time; There are now many petrol and electric verticulators, verticutters, turf splitters and scarifiers.
If for some reason the lawn was not fertilized immediately after the snow melted, then this can be done after scarification.
The next desirable measure after fertilizing and combing the lawn is aeration.
After the winter period, the soil becomes compacted and the roots of the cereals do not get enough air, the turf accumulates carbon dioxide, as a result of which the growth and development of the cereals slows down or even stops altogether. In order for the lawn to look good, aeration is carried out. Aeration is the artificial saturation of the soil layer with air, both for the oxidation of organic matter and for better absorption of nitrogen. aerobic bacteria. It is carried out using aerators with various (hollow, solid, root-forming or cutting) teeth. If there is no special equipment - an aerator, then you can use a fork with simple or hollow teeth. The earth is pierced to a depth of at least 8 cm, only then can the desired result be achieved. But it is not necessary to pierce the entire area; on a large area this is titanic work; you can do it locally - where there is strong compaction, moss or stagnant water.
Towards the end of April, a problem with weeds appears. There are two ways to control weeds - mechanical and chemical. The mechanical method (weeding) is very labor-intensive, especially on large areas, but is effective on small areas with large weeds. With this method, the roots of weeds are cut as low as possible with a shovel or root extractor and pulled out.
The chemical method is the application of herbicides (from the Latin herba - grass and caedo - I kill) onto the surface of the lawn.
Herbicides are chemical preparations from the group of pesticides for the destruction of unwanted, mainly weed, vegetation (including arboricides and algaecides (from the Latin alga - sea grass - algae)). Herbicides come in continuous and selective action. Continuous herbicides affect all types of plants, selective herbicides destroy some species, for example, weeds, and do not damage cultivated plants. When using herbicides, you must follow the instructions for the products. Their improper use can pollute soil and water bodies, cause the death of plants and animals, and disrupt biological connections in biogeocenoses.
It is possible to use continuous herbicides on the lawn only locally, applying the solution to the surface of the plant leaf with a syringe or brush. For example, the well-known “Roundup” (consumption rate from 50 to 120 ml/10 l) is a systemic broad-spectrum herbicide, when it gets on a plant, it disrupts metabolism, as a result of which the plant dies.
Selective herbicides kill weeds in the lawn without causing (or minimal) harm to lawn grasses.
Application of these herbicides is less labor intensive than weeding, especially over large areas. However, it is better to use both methods for maximum effect.
Herbicides are sold in powder and liquid form. When using a powder herbicide, the lawn must be watered two days after treatment; the effect will be visible after one to two weeks. Liquid herbicide works faster. To use it, you need a garden sprayer, a respirator and gloves, and when using it, you must either protect the cultivated plants adjacent to the lawn or walk around them by at least 1.5 meters.
Some experts recommend using herbicides in combination with nitrogen-containing fertilizer, because They believe that this increases the efficiency of application by an order of magnitude. With this treatment, fertilizer must be applied a week earlier than the powder herbicide; liquid herbicide mixed with liquid fertilizer and use, but if the fertilizer is in granular form and the herbicide is in liquid form, then the herbicide should be applied only a week after fertilization.
The selective herbicides “lintur” (consumption rate of the drug 2g/10l of water) and “2.4D” (3ml/10l) gave good results. The frequency of treatments is at least two, after a week in the first case and after three to four days in the second. When using "2,4D" we slightly increased the concentration.
Herbicides should be used in calm, warm and dry weather and do not forget about protective equipment (hazard class II).
As a result of freezing, excess moisture or other factors, damaged areas - “bald spots” - form on the lawn. They need to be reseeded, that is, lawn restoration. If there are depressions (for example, it was noticed that there was water standing in this place), then you need to level the surface with soil and compact the soil with a lawn roller “crosswise”. Then loosen the sowing area and sow the seeds, mixing them with fertile soil at the rate of one part of seeds to two parts of soil (or peat mixture), while reducing the seed sowing rate by 30% -40% of the recommended rate for pure sowing. When compacting an already sown area, you can use a roller, a sheet of plywood or a wide board. After restoration, water, preferably in the evening, on the day of sowing.
At complete restoration mulch the lawn with peat mixture or fertile soil over the entire area.
There are measures to improve soil structure, such as mulching and sanding. The addition of peat mixture or sand leads to the appearance of new roots and shoots and improves the structure (porosity) of the soil. Sanding is carried out, as a rule, on heavily used surfaces, for example, on sports fields. For sanding, dry alluvial sand with a grain size of 0.6-1.2 mm should be used in an amount of 0.1 cubic meters. m per 100 sq. m plot. Sanding is carried out once a year after verticulation during the most active growth of grasses.
Very often, lawns suffer from fungal diseases, the cause of which is high humidity air and soil, in warm weather conditions.
If foci of fungal diseases are detected, then urgent measures are necessary to improve the health of the lawn and prevent the spread of the infection.
The most common diseases after the winter period are fusarium and various types of mold. First, small spots or rings of yellowing grass appear on the lawn, which increase in diameter over time, and then can close together and form large “bald spots.” During humid weather, fluffy white or pink mold may appear along the edges of affected areas of the lawn.
At the end of May it may also appear powdery mildew in the form of a whitish coating, which gradually thickens and becomes grayish with dark dots.
These phenomena should be combated, first of all, by preventive measures, such as aeration, improving soil structure, etc. But if this happens, then you can use mechanical and chemical methods struggle.
If the source of infection is small, it is better to replace the soil and reseed new lawn. It is necessary to dig up the infected turf along the perimeter of the outbreak, retreating about 15-20 cm, in order to avoid the remains of spores or fungi.
The chemical method consists of spraying the lesions two or three times systemic fungicides. For example, “foundazol” (consumption rate from 20 to 40 g/10 l), “ferazim” ( active substance- carbendazim). This should be done in calm, dry weather in the morning or in the evening. After two or three days, re-spray.
In addition to fungal diseases, the lawn may have other problems, such as algae, mosses and lichens. They usually develop on heavy, clayey, undrained soils, usually in low-lying and shady places.
They can be combated by spraying with copper and iron sulfate (mainly as a preventive measure), but it is important not to forget about the root cause of these forms of vegetation settling on the lawn (soil). In this case, it is necessary to remove them from the soil surface, improve the soil structure by digging and adding the necessary components (if necessary, make drainage).
Some problems are caused by animals such as dogs and moles. Dog urine causes rounded patches of scorched grass to appear on your lawn. The only way to combat this problem is to abundantly water the affected areas or reseeding and replanting the dead lawn.
Moles are sometimes a big problem for gardeners. The lawn is especially vulnerable to moles. Moles leave piles of soil on the lawn; these piles must be removed immediately so that they do not crush the lawn grasses underneath them. The bald spot that appears must be sown or covered with turf. To combat moles, you can use repellent windmills and sound repellers (mole scarers). But it is most effective to install mole traps in mole holes. Before installation, you should bury the mole trap in the ground for two weeks so that the smells of oil and metal disappear.
There is also the problem of earthworms throwing out soil. On our own earthworms are not a threat to the lawn, they are even beneficial for it. The soil thrown out by the worms is crushed underfoot and crushes the lawn grasses, causing many of them to die. Worms settle only on light, non-acidified soil and therefore the method of combating them is to annually mulch the soil surface with a large amount of peat and use fertilizer containing ammonium sulfate.
Insects, for example, ants, can be fought with the drug "actellik", spraying their routes and nests.
In conclusion, I would like to emphasize that if you follow the lawn construction technology and properly care for it, many problems can be avoided, and reading specialized literature will help gardeners take preventive measures in a timely manner.
Evgeny Gorbunov, company "Kladonia",
Lawn care
A lawn, like any other plant, requires care. Lawn care includes regular mowing, fertilizing, cleaning, etc.
It is especially important to carefully care for the lawn in the first year of its creation: periodically water it, control the appearance of weeds and diseases. The lawn requires extremely careful and careful treatment in winter. Lawn grasses suffer more from the cold than other plants, so in winter there is a danger of the lawn freezing. With the onset of frost, the grass enters a dormant period, and the lawn should not experience any stress at this time, otherwise “bald spots” will inevitably appear in the spring. brown spots, and natural recovery lasts quite a long time. In addition, damage to plant tissue weakens plants and can become a source of various diseases. 
It is not recommended to walk on the lawn in winter until a snow cover of sufficient thickness (20-25 cm) has formed on it. If a thinner snow cover forms (during strong winds and low air temperatures), experts advise artificially increasing the thickness of the snow cover when caring for the lawn. To do this, special shields are installed on the lawn to ensure snow retention.
In winter and early spring, an ice crust may form on the surface of the snow cover, preventing the air exchange of plants, which in turn inhibits the development of the lawn. The ice crust must be destroyed (for example, with a rake), otherwise the root system of lawn grasses may partially die.
When winter comes into its own and a stable snow cover forms on the lawn, you can begin preparing lawn equipment and tools for spring. 
care
It is especially important to check the condition of the lawnmower used to cut the lawn, because timely cutting is one of the the most important requirements to create a beautiful lawn. The condition of the remaining tools also needs to be carefully checked - after all, the better the tools are prepared, the less hassle it will take to care for the lawn when spring comes.
When the snow begins to melt, you need to make sure that no puddles form on the lawn. To do this, pierce the soil in damp areas (for example, with a pitchfork). To prevent the lawn from becoming waterlogged in the spring, drainage work can be carried out in the fall. In any case, in the spring, experts advise moving as little as possible on a damp lawn to avoid the formation of marks and potholes. 
With the onset of warm temperature conditions, starting to care for the lawn, you can fertilize it with complex fertilizers to accelerate the regrowth of grass and restore the lawn after winter. Fertilizing can be done a little later, after spring treatment lawn It should be remembered that at the beginning of spring, plants especially need nitrogen and phosphorus, and after mowing they require almost all nutrients.
The use of fertilizers promotes the development of the root system of grasses, thickens it, revitalizes the green color, increases resistance to trampling and disease, and helps the lawn recover faster from stress.
In arid regions in the spring, in order to stimulate the root system, in addition to applying phosphorus fertilizers to the soil, mulching is carried out. Mulching 
- this is a uniform distribution of fertile soil over the surface of the lawn. The surface of the lawn is mulched by sprinkling it with a mixture of peat, sand and finely sifted light loam. The composition of the mixture depends on the nature of the soil: on heavy soils the mixture should contain a large proportion of sand; on sandy soils add fine loam or turf soil.
Mulching reduces moisture evaporation and helps protect the soil surface from crust formation, and also stimulates the formation of shoots, increasing the fertile layer. Mulching helps increase the volume of the grass stand as the grass begins to form new side shoots.
After the spring “feeding” of the lawn, after waiting until the fertilizer granules are completely dissolved, the ground thaws and its surface dries, they carry out “general cleaning” of the lawn. 
In the autumn-winter period, so-called felt forms on the soil. Felt and plant debris are often the cause of grass diseases and insects. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out the so-called verticulation and scarification of the lawn (that is, remove the felt and loosen the soil surface). This allows you to create favorable conditions for air exchange, soil and prevent possible diseases.
Verticulation and combing of the lawn are not recommended before the soil dries out, so as not to pull out the grass by the roots and damage the surface of the lawn.
The lawn must be cleaned regularly - at least three times per season.
To treat the lawn, special units are used - a verticutter (verticulator) and a garden vacuum cleaner. You can also use regular fan or twisted 
rake. The main task is to remove debris as thoroughly as possible, remove all dry rotted leaves and shoots and lightly loosen the surface of the lawn. The lawn is combed lengthwise and crosswise several times with a pitchfork and fan rake. Garden vacuum cleaner remove the smallest plant debris.
Lawn care also includes such an event as aeration - artificial saturation of the soil with air. Since after winter the soil becomes compacted and the turf accumulates carbon dioxide, as a result the grass roots cannot breathe, grass growth slows down or even stops completely. In addition, on the compacted and even surface of the lawn, the grass of which is tightly intertwined with its roots, moss can spread, for which the accumulated moisture residues create favorable environment. If the root layer is damaged in selected places, it will strip the moss favorable conditions for development. 
For work they use special equipment - aerators and cultivators. You can also use regular pitchforks. The ground is pierced to a depth of at least 5 cm. It is especially important to pay attention to areas with highly compacted soil, overgrown with moss or with stagnant water.
If depressions or large bald spots open under rotten leaves and grass remnants, these places will need to be “repaired”: add soil, level it and sow seeds from the same mixture that was used when laying the lawn, so as not to change the color and character of the grass stand. Small areas can be left - after a while they will be covered with grass themselves.
Usually the seeds are evenly distributed over the surface of the lawn, but it is especially important to carefully overseed the damaged areas that have been subjected to 
freezing or getting wet. To do this, remove all plant debris from the damaged surface and level the ground by filling and compacting the soil. The overseeding area is loosened with a verticutter (you can also do this manually with a regular rake) and the same grass mixture is sowed that was used for the entire lawn. Experts recommend compacting the oversowing area in the evening of the same day and watering the entire lawn.
Weed control. Towards the end of spring, a problem with weeds appears. They fight weeds in two ways - mechanical and chemical. Mechanical - weeding the lawn by hand. With this method, the roots of weeds are pulled out with a shovel or root extractor.
The chemical method of weed control is based on the use of special preparations - herbicides designed to remove unnecessary vegetation. The drugs differ in the type of action: some affect plants 
(continuous action), others - only one type (selective action). Chemicals can be in the form of a powder or liquid, applied using a spray, syringe or brush to the surface of plant leaves. Once on the plant, the drug disrupts metabolism (metabolism), as a result of which the plant dies.
Usage chemicals can significantly facilitate weed control, however, experts consider their use to be an extreme forced measure, which can only be resorted to when all other means of weed control have been exhausted. When using any chemicals, one must not forget about their high toxicity. You must strictly follow the instructions that come with the drug. During work, it is necessary to use all personal protective equipment - goggles, respirator, rubberized gloves, rubber boots; wear clothes made of thick fabric. 
You need to handle chemicals with extreme caution - keep them away from children and pets, and strictly ensure that drops of the drug do not accidentally fall on vegetables and fruits.
Fighting diseases. During spring care The lawn may be damaged by diseases. In this case, it is urgent to take the necessary measures to improve the health of the lawn and stop the spread of the disease. Sometimes it is enough to carry out verticulation, feed the lawn with fertilizers and mow the first grass. If after these measures the grass remains affected, more radical healing measures are required. In this case, according to experts, the affected area needs to be mowed as low as possible and the top layer of soil must be dug deeply (to a depth of 20 cm, with a layer turnover). After this, after waiting at least a week (so that the soil can “rest”), you should sow the desired mixture of herbs.
Experts recommend mowing the lawn to a height of 8-10 cm, leaving plants at a level of 5-6 cm. They also advise using a lawn mower with a grass catcher so as not to leave plant residues on the surface of the lawn. 
It is recommended to “comb” the lawn using a garden rake or fan rake every time the lawn is subjected to intense loads, such as trampling, and also before mowing. When combing, the trampled grass is lifted using a garden tool.
Experts still recommend mowing the lawn using a lawnmower with a grass catcher and sharp knife. The sharpness of the knife is very important; this is the only way to get a high-quality cut. A poor-quality cut made with a dull knife provokes the death of the upper parts of the grass stand, after which the lawn turns brown. In hard-to-reach places, it is recommended to use a trimmer.
Mow the lawn to a height of at least 4 cm. If you mow too low, there is a risk of damaging the density of the grass stand, and in addition, this allows weeds to develop faster. If the grass has grown to a considerable height, mowing the lawn 
It is recommended to carry out this several times a week, cutting off no more than a third of the plants.
If necessary, immediately after mowing the lawn, you can trim its edges - horizontally and vertically. If you need to give the lawn a certain shape or prevent the growth of rhizomes, perform horizontal trimming. If you need to decorate a hard-to-reach area, for example, along a border or around a tree trunk, vertical trimming of the edges of the lawn is used.
Water the lawn after each mowing, and in hot weather, between mowings. Watering should be done abundantly, but avoiding the appearance of puddles. Water is one of the most important factors, affecting the growth and development of the lawn. It is believed that the optimal number of watering the lawn per season is 20-30 times. To reduce moisture loss, watering is best done in the evening or early in the morning. Evening watering is also most effective because during the night the top layer of soil has time to be completely saturated with moisture. And, conversely, daytime watering, especially in hot summers, only leads to strong evaporation of moisture, and can even harm the plants; drops of water will act as a lens and the plants may get burned.
It should be especially emphasized that the lawn should be watered not with a stream, since this can lead to the formation of gullies, but with a drip method (irrigation). To do this you can set automated system irrigation (or use a regular watering can).
At the height of summer, the lawn is exposed to strong influence of wind and scorching rays of the sun, and suffers from a lack of moisture. At this time, the plant may die, begin to wither, dry out, etc. To prevent this phenomenon, regular, but not daily, lawn irrigation is required.
Daily watering, according to experts, leads to a delay in the growth of lateral roots and the development of the root system in depth. That's why best option- water at intervals of several days or immediately after the first signs of lack of moisture appear. 
Over time, the soil on your lawn becomes more dense. This leads to the fact that the supply of oxygen to the root system is hampered, and as a result, carbon dioxide accumulates. As a result, grass growth slows down. To achieve optimal gas exchange, special soil treatment is carried out - aeration. The soil is treated with an aerator.
Lawn care largely depends on its type. For example, at the end of summer, flowering (Moorish) lawns require special attention. Many annual plants are fading, and the flowering period of perennial plants has not yet arrived. At this time, you can cut the lawn, but not lower than 8 cm.
In the fall, the lawn also needs fertilizing. You can apply fertilizer to a flowering lawn immediately after mowing it, since this stimulates the development of the lawn in the fall.
The Ozelenitel Stroy company offers lawn care services from professional agronomists. Departure of specialists throughout Moscow and the Moscow region.
Call and order services with a quality guarantee!
