When installing any type of water supply and sewerage system, you cannot do without sewer wells. Their equipment is provided even when, on suburban area. The well plays a huge role when performing repairs and preventative work such as flushing, pumping and cleaning. If it is absent, you will not be able to identify the blockage area and eliminate the consequences.
The installation of all sewerage systems with special structures for control, repair, maintenance or functional needs requires SNiP 2.04.03-85 “Sewerage. External networks and structures." The standards indicate where, how many and what kind of wells to install.
Typical well structure:
- hatch cover;
- neck;
- working chamber, about 1.8 m high;
- the shaft is usually round, equipped with stairs;
- bottom.
When installing a sewer well on pipes with a diameter of up to 0.3 m, best option- a round well with a diameter of 1 m, with a working chamber diameter of at least 0.7 m.
If the pipeline diameter is more than 0.3 m, experts recommend installing rectangular reinforced concrete wells with a bottom diameter of 1 m.
When constructing a sewer well, the angle between it and the outlet and inlet connecting pipes should be no more than 90?. The angle can only be changed when installing drop wells.
If pipes of different diameters are supplied to the well, then their connection should occur along the pipes.
Main types of sewer wells:
By network:
- Wastewater - domestic and industrial;
- Drainage;
- Stormwater.
According to the material of manufacture:
- Made of concrete;
- Made of brick;
- Polymer.
By purpose:
- Variable;
- Observations:
- changing the direction of flow (rotary, nodal);
- direct-flow (linear, control, flushing).
At the same time, the most important and primary task of any sewer well is monitoring everything.
Also using sewer wells:
- it is possible to overcome the difference in its components and in the height of the outlet and supply pipes;
- remove blockages;
- collect dirt accumulated in drains.
Sewer inspection wells
Manholes are:
- linear - they are installed on straight sections of the network. They have a simple design and do not require specific knowledge during installation. The length depends on the diameter of the pipe and ranges from 35 to 300 m;
- rotating - constructed where the direction of the pipeline changes. In essence, this is a special point where you can carry out Maintenance well. These wells are installed at all bends of the laid sewer pipe,
- nodal - installed in places where branches of the sewer system are connected;
- control ones - they are built at the points where the yard, block, and street connections join the central sewer system.
Inspection wells must be installed on straight sections at a distance of 35-300 m and in the following conditions:
- changes in pipe size or slope;
- changes in flow direction;
- attaching side branches.
Usually these wells are of the same type and are arranged as a shaft with a chamber inside, where the incoming and outgoing pipelines are connected by a special tray. They differ in the depth of the pipes.
In nodal and rotary wells, the tray is made in the form specified by SNiP. The angle of rotation should not be less than 90° and should be smoothly rounded.
The control well can often be a nodal well.
The flushing well is usually direct-flow. It is installed at the beginning of the circuit, where there is a possibility of blockages.
Drop wells
Drop wells change and regulate the flow of wastewater in height, and change the speed of their movement.
They need to be arranged if:
Depending on their internal structure, drop wells are divided by type of drop:
- with an existing practical profile drain and a water well;
- tubular, having a vertical pipe;
- with a baffle-weir wall;
- multi-stage chessboard, damping the incident energy;
- fast flows are short sections with a large slope to accelerate a slowing flow.
Drop wells with a water seal do not lower, but raise the flow level. This is achieved through a special wastewater-accumulating chamber. They are installed where exposure to explosive and fire hazardous substances is possible.
You can install such a well in an individual sewer system if you are not sure that the volume of drainage will be sufficient for self-cleaning of the pipes.
Sanitary requirements for the installation of differential wells
In accordance with SNiP 2.04.03-85 clause 4.25-note: when installing a sewer system with a pipeline diameter of up to 0.6 m and a drop height of up to 0.5 m, it is not necessary to install a drop well. With drop heights of up to 3 m and a pipeline diameter of 0.6 m, tubular drops are installed. In this case, a flushing well must be installed at the beginning of the network.
It is better to build wells on gravity sewer and pressure pipelines according to standard projects. All structural elements are marked, they have inscriptions: sewer wells... series...
As a rule, reinforced concrete structures and elements manufactured in accordance with GOST 8020-56 are used. Hatches are produced in accordance with GOST 3634-91.
IN suburban construction you can build wells from bricks
In this case, the depth of the tray should be equal to the diameter of the tray itself. big pipes systems.
Wells are made from the following materials:
- and prefabricated reinforced concrete;
- polyethylene;
- polyvinyl chloride;
- fiberglass.
Until now, in accordance with SNiP, the bulk of wells are made of reinforced concrete rings, sometimes from cubes, or.
Polymer systems that are superior to them in many respects are just entering the market.
How to waterproof wells
The sewer well must be sealed to protect environment from ingress of wastewater.
When constructing a well from reinforced concrete rings with your own hands, you can use various special compounds. There are special waterproofing compounds for joints.
Before applying the waterproofing composition, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work: remove loose surface, dry, brush to remove dirt. In places of leakage, it is necessary to make a recess in the shape of “ swallowtail» by 5 cm and cover it with waterproofing material.
The joints must be pre-moistened and then filled with the compound.
Only after this can waterproofing be applied to the entire structure. It is necessary to apply 3 layers, leaving each to dry for 24 hours.
During the formation of the waterproofing layer, it is important to exclude the influence of mechanical load and frost on the treated surface. Also during this time the treated surface must be moistened.
Performance internal waterproofing sewer well is made 14 days.
Equipment of wells made of reinforced concrete elements
A standard reinforced concrete well consists of:
- round or rectangular base;
- rings;
- ceilings with a hole for a hatch;
- hatch cover.
Rings and base plates are produced completely flat, only with loops for installation.
In the lower ring you need to punch holes for entry, and on the slab you need to make a tray of the required shape from concrete or cement.
This structure is used in all types of inspection and drop-off wells.
The height of the well is created by several rings - standard and additional. Before installing each ring, you need to remove the mounting loops of the underlying one.
All elements of the structure are sealed cement mortar. Thus, their waterproofing leaves much to be desired, and the runoff pollutes the ground.
Polymer wells
Modern plastic wells and mobile technology have made it possible to significantly reduce the size of wells. Today you can install plastic device small volume, up to 0.3 m in diameter.
There are several main types of such structures, these are:
Any of these structures can be installed quite simply. The main thing is to study the norms and requirements for installation work. But, if we talk about sewer systems in private houses, then in most cases one of the last two options for wells is installed here.
They, in turn, are divided into several types depending on the material from which they are made:
As a conclusion, we note that wells made of reinforced concrete rings are most widely used. The construction of such a septic tank will take about 10 days, but will be quite simple and economical.
How to determine the location of a well when installing it yourself
When thinking about how to make a well for sewerage, the first thing you should pay attention to is its location.
It plays important role in preserving the environment and the health of residents, because in the event of a break in the structure, wastewater will flow into the ground or come out when the septic tank overflows or the system silts up.
Sewage well location diagram
Especially complex calculations V in this case are not needed, all standards are specified in the corresponding section of SNiP.
This is how the sewer well should be located:
- no closer than 5 meters to a residential building;
- more than 1 meter from outbuildings;
- no closer than 30 meters to wells or wells with drinking water;
- 50 meters from the reservoir;
- 20 meters from the garden or vegetable garden;
- no closer than 3 meters to the fence of the site or highway.
Consider the low location of the well
In this case, the sewer well must be located in the lowest area of the land plot.
This way you can ensure the proper slope of the pipes with minimal volumes earthworks, do stable work sewerage systems.
The wastewater will move by gravity. Otherwise, you will have to use pumping equipment.
How to correctly calculate the size of a sewer well
If with the distance from the well to objects located at summer cottage everything is clear, then in order to determine the dimensions of the well, you will have to perform several calculations.
Take, for example, a family of three living in a house full-time. The volume of the well will be calculated as follows: V=n*q*3.
Explanation of values:
Calculation of the volume of a well made of concrete rings
- V – well volume;
- n – number of residents of the house;
- q – average volume of water consumed by one person;
- 3 – the number of days during which a full cycle of wastewater treatment occurs using natural processes.
Substituting digital values, we get: V=3*200*3. So, the volume of the well should be 1800 liters or 1.8 m3.
Dimensions and location according to SNiP
If the well will be built from concrete rings, we need to know its depth by selecting the appropriate diameter.
For example, let's take rings with a diameter of 1 meter. Then the height of the well should be 2.3 meters.
The calculation was performed as follows: h=V/0.25/3.14. 0.25 is the radius squared. 3.14 is a constant value.
Calculation of the volume of a square well
If the well has rectangular section, where each side is 1 meter, its depth will be 1.8 meters. The calculation was performed using the formula: h=V/(1*1).
How to build a sewer well
You can make a sewer well with your own hands from any materials: tires, barrels, bricks, reinforced concrete rings.
But, given the popularity of septic tanks made of reinforced concrete rings, let’s consider the topic using their example.
The installation will be constructed as follows:
Construction of a sewer well
- dig a pit 50 cm deeper and wider than the expected dimensions of the well itself;
- compact the bottom, lay a sand cushion 10 cm high on it;
- lower the concrete base;
- lower the first one into the pit concrete ring, seal its joint with the bottom using cement or bitumen mixture;
- make a hole for drain pipe at a height of 60 cm from the bottom level;
- connect the sewer pipe;
- lower the second ring. Secure it with metal staples, treat the seams with cement or seal with rubber waterproofing tape;
- install a ceiling with a hole for the hatch;
- install the hatch.
This way you can build a sewer well with your own hands quite quickly.
IlonaP 3 years ago
Is it possible to install a sewer well yourself? What rules are used to correctly make a well for sewerage?
vasily
3 years ago
The storage well is designed to collect sewage. The procedure for its manufacture is as follows:
Calculation of well size.
Select the type of well.
Let's get started
Place sewer pipes to the well. Build the walls of the well from brick, concrete or stone. If possible, you can install concrete rings in the pit.
the moderator chose this answer as the best
Kim Chen In
3 years ago
A sewer well is not just one thing.
There are a lot of types of sewer wells, and if you add the material used to make sewer wells, there are dozens of options.
It is not clear what specific well you asked about.
I believe that no, in addition to the tool, knowledge and experience, calculations are needed.
Before installing a sewer system, it is necessary to draw up a project, the project must be approved by the SES (Sanitary and Epidemiological Station).
The distances are maintained in accordance with SNiP 2 04 03-85 (there is also SanPiN), that is (this is for example, although we don’t know anything about your soil) the distance from the fence to the well is at least 2 meters from the foundation of a residential building at least 15, from the well to the sewer well at least 20 (again, you need to know everything about your soil) and so on there are a lot of positions.
Sewage pipes are laid at the stage of building the foundation; if you have not done this, then you need a tool (diamond drilling rig) to drill the foundation.
Since we still don’t know which well we are talking about, I describe a well that is usually called " cesspool".
Be careful here that in urban areas such structures must be completely sealed.
IN rural areas It is allowed to install cesspools without a bottom, but I emphasize once again that you need to know everything about the soil.
Nowadays, rarely does anyone bother with constructing sewer wells made of reinforced concrete rings, or even more so made of brick.
It’s more convenient, faster, more durable, there are no problems with sealing and you don’t need to use special equipment to buy a storage septic tank (if you have a choice, I advise you to go for a seamless one).
The container is light and can be lowered into the pit by hand.
Determine the volume yourself, based on the number of residents, the number of plumbing fixtures and the intensity of sewer use in general (you can calculate consumption based on the readings of water meters).
Don’t forget to arrange access for a sewer truck.
And the stages of arrangement look like this:
Pit for a septic tank.
There is a trench from the pit to the house, the depth is below freezing of the soil.
The 110th pipe is laid in the trench, the slope is from the house to the septic tank, the slope is 2 cm per meter of pipe.
At the bottom of the pit there is a sand cushion, a tamper, if without special equipment, then crushed stone, a tamper, a screed in an “ear” screed.
The screed has dried, the septic tank has been lowered, “anchored”, backfilling, insulation.
The pipe was led into a septic tank.
Backfilling of the trench (the pipe can also be insulated, see for yourself).
The sewage system must have ventilation; a vertical riser has been installed (connected through a tee).
The pipe entered the house and the 50th pipe was scattered around the house.
In general, that’s all, there are a huge number of little things, this once again emphasizes the impossibility of independent work.
It's a complex system.
vasily
3 years ago
An autonomous sewer system is installed on the site if centralized system far. You can make it yourself without resorting to the help of builders. The simplest scheme The sewer system consists of one storage well, into which sewage is discharged, and pipelines through which wastewater flows. In some cases, this scheme has to be complicated.
If the distance between the storage well and the house is very large, it is necessary to arrange inspection wells. They are installed every 15 m and are designed to clean the system.
If it is impossible to make a straight pipeline and there is a need to turn it, a rotary well is built at the turning point.
If the angle of laying the pipeline is too steep, you will need a drop well.
A filter well is made if you plan to build a septic tank on the site. It should be located after preliminary water purification in the first chambers of the septic tank.
Each type of well has its own design, dimensions and is installed according to its own instructions.
Let's consider the technology of manufacturing a storage well for the simplest sewer system with one well.
The storage well is designed to collect sewage. The operating procedure is as follows:
We determine the location of the well.
It is dug in the lowest place of the site. The pit should be located at least 3 m from the house, from the source drinking water- at least 30 m. A road must be built to it for the access of a sewer truck.
Calculation of well size.
One person receives 150-200 liters of wastewater per day. The well must have a three-day supply of wastewater from the entire family. If there are 4 people in a family, the minimum pit volume is 3 cubic meters. Do not make the well deeper than 3 m, this will complicate its cleaning.
Select the type of well.
If the groundwater in the area is close to the surface, the well is made of sealed concrete and then covered with waterproofing. Another option is a hole with a soil bottom through which the water drains on its own.
Let's get started
Pour crushed stone into the bottom of the hole in a layer of at least 40 cm.
Place sewer pipes to the well. Build the walls of the well from brick, concrete, stone. If possible, you can install concrete rings in the pit.
Close the well with a lid with a hatch, mount ventilation pipe. It should protrude 60 cm above the lid. Cover the lid with earth for thermal insulation and leave the hatch open.
City dwellers are so accustomed to comfort that even in the countryside they require a full range of “conveniences”, but centralized sewerage outside the city is from another life. Therefore, sewerage for a dacha is the concern of the owners. This is not an easy task, but once you understand the intricacies, you can design and build it yourself.
Types of autonomous sewerage
In order to consciously and correctly choose the type of sewage system for your dacha, you must at least general outline imagine the advantages and disadvantages of each possible options. There are not so many of them:
The first two options are simply places for collecting waste; no purification occurs in them. But there is a difference between them, and quite significant. A cesspool is usually made only for storage, but all wastewater is already drained into a storage tank. That is, this is the most primitive sewage system, albeit without cleaning.
The second two options are already treatment facilities, just with different degrees of automation. As you can see, perfect way No. You have to choose between environmental friendliness and cheapness. And here no one can decide except you.
How to organize sewerage in a country house with a septic tank
If the dacha will be visited mainly on weekends, build some complex system doesn't make sense. The most reasonable option in this case is to install a storage tank, or make a cesspool, but it must be sealed. Since visits will be rare, cleaning will be required infrequently, and to make it needed even less often, biological products are used that accelerate the decomposition of organic matter, at the same time reducing the volume of wastewater.
With more active use of the dacha plot, a more serious sewage system is needed for the dacha. A smart choice is to install a septic tank, make filtration fields according to the instructions, or install an absorption well. It is better to take a factory septic tank, if possible. Of course it costs a lot of money, but homemade septic tanks, although they are cheaper to build, require constant repairs during operation, and besides all, most of them suffer from leaks. This is a dacha, after all, and everything that gets into the ground ends up on your table - in the form of water, if the water supply is from a well or borehole, and then in the form of the crops that you water with this water.
If you definitely decide to make a septic tank with your own hands, there are several options:
The easiest way is to make a septic tank at your dacha from concrete rings. Its volume should be large enough - it is believed that such a device should have room to accumulate a three-day supply of wastewater. Consumption per day is assumed to be 200-250 liters per person, the total consumption is calculated according to the number of people in the dacha at a time, with some reserve in case of guests arriving. For a family of 3-4 people, the usual volume of a septic tank is 2.5-3 cubic meters.
Standards for the location of treatment facilities on the site
There is a lot of confusion in this area. There are many conflicting norms with different distances, and in different regions These standards may differ, so you need to find out exactly from your local plumbing department. The most common standards can be grouped:
One more thing. If there is a slope on the site, then the well or borehole should be located above all treatment facilities. To maintain all these distances, you will have to spend a long time working on the site plan. If you can’t do everything right away, Special attention pay attention to the distance to neighbor's house and well (well), since violation is fraught with a complaint, subsequent inspections and fines.
Types of sewerage with septic tank
A septic tank is a container consisting of one, two or three chambers connected by overflow pipes. From the last chamber, purified water enters the filtration field, the absorption well, and the filter trench. The choice of a specific type of final filtration depends on the type of soil and groundwater level.
With filter well
When groundwater is low and soils drain water well, a filtration well is made. Usually these are several reinforced concrete rings without a bottom.
With filter field
When the groundwater level is up to 1.5 meters and/or when the drainage capacity of the soil is poor, wastewater is discharged to filtration fields. These are quite extensive areas in which some natural soil replaced with sand and crushed stone. Water from the septic tank enters this field through perforated pipes, where, passing through the layers, it is further purified, and then goes into the underlying layers of soil.
The structure of this field is layered - sand below, then crushed stone in which the drainage pipes. Decorative plantings can be planted on top. The location of this treatment plant is as far as possible from the garden and fruit trees. The disadvantage of this system is that after a while the crushed stone silts up and the water stops flowing. It is necessary to open and replace the filtrate (sand with crushed stone).
Into the gutter
If there is a drainage ditch near the septic tank, you can drain the water into it for further purification. To do this, a small pit is dug in front of the ditch, which is covered with crushed stone. The water is discharged into the crushed stone, from where it enters the ditch.
This option is possible if the degree of wastewater treatment is high. Typically, such a scheme is offered when installing VOC or AC. But to be sure, it is advisable to have on hand the result of a chemical examination confirming the degree of purification. This document may be needed if neighbors complain and an inspection comes.
About autonomous sewerage, and about individual treatment facilities in Tver - here.
How many chambers are there in a septic tank?
In SNiP 2.04.03-85, the number of chambers in a septic tank is tied to the daily water flow:
- up to 1 cubic meter/day - one chamber;
- from 1 to 10 cubic meters/day - two chambers;
- over 10 cubic meters/day - three.
In this case, the volume of the septic tank must be at least 3 times the daily flow. One camera is rarely made, as well as three. One does not provide the required degree of purification, and three are too expensive.
How to connect a sewer to a septic tank
Judging by the standards, the sewer pipe will have to be laid at least 7-8 meters to the septic tank. So the trench will be long. It should go with a slope:
- pipe diameter 100-110 mm, slope 20 mm per linear meter;
- 50 mm in diameter - slope 30 mm/m.
Please note that it is not advisable to change the level of inclination in either direction. You can increase it by a maximum of 5-6 mm. Why can't there be more? At large slope the water will run off very quickly, and heavy inclusions will move much less. As a result, the water will drain away, but the solid particles will remain in the pipe. You can imagine the consequences.
Second important condition— the pipe should not freeze. There are two solutions. The first is to bury below the freezing depth, which, taking into account the slope, gives a significant depth. The second is to bury it to about 60-80 cm and insulate it on top.
How deep should you bury the tube?
In reality, the depth to which you will bury the sewer pipe coming from the house depends on the location of the septic tank, or rather, its inlet. The septic tank itself must be arranged so that there is only a lid on the surface of the soil, and the entire “body”, including the neck, is in the ground. Having buried the septic tank (or having decided on its type and model), you will know where the pipe needs to be led, and the required slope is also known. Using these data, you can calculate at what depth you need to exit the house.
This area of work also has its own nuances. So it’s better to dig a trench of the required depth right away. If you have to add soil, you need to tamp it down very well - don’t just throw in some soil, tamp it until high density. This is necessary because simply laid soil will shrink, and the pipe will settle with it. Over time, a plug forms at the site of subsidence. Even if it can be broken through, it will appear there again from time to time.
Insulation
One more point: the laid and hermetically connected pipe is covered with a layer of sand about 15 cm thick (this should be above the pipe), the sand is spilled and lightly compacted. EPS with a thickness of at least 5 cm is laid on the sand; it must extend at a distance of at least 30 cm on both sides of the pipe. The second option for insulating a sewer pipe is the same EPS, but in the form of a shell of a suitable size.
Special insulation for pipes - shell
It is not recommended to use other insulation materials. Mineral wool When wet, it loses its properties - it simply stops working. Polystyrene foam collapses under pressure. If you are building a full-fledged sewer trench with walls and a lid, then you can do it. But if the sewer pipe is laid in the ground, the foam may become wrinkled. The second point is that mice like to chew it (EPS don’t like it).
Owners of private houses most often have to independently install local treatment facilities on their site. It is cheaper and easier to install sewer wells in the form of a regular cesspool or a sealed storage tank. A well-designed treatment or storage point will do the job perfectly. Do you agree?
Here you will learn what materials are used in the construction of treatment facilities and storage tanks for independent sewerage. We have described in detail the technologies for constructing typical sewer wells. Taking into account our recommendations, it will be easier for you to decide on the best option in terms of price and effort.
Often centralized sewer system in the private sector with low-rise buildings it is simply absent. And it is necessary to get rid of household waste, but not to pour it on the ground. For this purpose they are building autonomous system sewerage system, including internal and external parts.
The in-house sewer system collects wastewater from plumbing fixtures, and its outer part is intended for its disposal or accumulation for subsequent pumping by sewer trucks. The person receiving wastewater on the street is the final point of removal local system cleaning.
If there is no general sewerage network in the village, then you cannot do without a cesspool or sewage storage tank near a private house
Fecal wastewater in the sewer well is clarified, resulting in the formation of partially purified water and suspended matter. In the case of a cesspool, the first one drains into the ground, and the second one is decomposed by microorganisms to the state of sludge that is safe from a biological point of view.
If the option with a storage tank is chosen, then the sewage is simply collected in a sealed container, and as it fills, it is pumped out using a sewer truck.
Fermentation and clarification of wastewater can be carried out in one or several tanks connected in series. However, in the second case, the installation of sewer wells becomes much more complicated.
It is easier to equip one well structure, and to speed up the purification process, add chemical or biological reagents to it.
Most often on local area The owners of private houses make a cesspool on their own. But if the groundwater level is high, then the cesspool option is not suitable; you have to install a storage tank. Moreover, its volume is selected large enough to reduce the number of calls for vacuum cleaners.
The decomposition of the biological component of sewage in the cesspool occurs due to anaerobic microbes. They do not require oxygen supply to function, so there is no need to install additional aerobic units in the well. The entire cleaning system is energy-independent and does not require connection to the electrical network.
All rotting processes inside a sewer well occur naturally, thanks to bacteria living in the soil. In this matter they are quite successful, but anaerobes “work” quite slowly. Therefore, in order to speed up the processes, enter the pit occasionally.
The distance between the drainage bottom of the cesspool and the groundwater layer must be at least a meter, otherwise the purified water will have nowhere to go
Requirements for the construction of such structures
All sewage systems must be installed according to a pre-developed plan, which indicates the layout of all elements of the system and the building materials used. Its outer part in the case under consideration consists of a pipe draining away from the house and treatment plant.
The design and installation of sewer wells is regulated in the following regulatory documents:
If you do not comply with the requirements specified in them, then the sewerage system after assembly may simply be inoperable.
When choosing a location for a treatment structure on a site, do not forget about the need to leave free access to it; even a drainage cesspool must be cleaned from time to time of accumulated sludge
Structurally, the sewer well consists of:
- necks with a lid or hatch;
- shafts in the middle part (working chamber);
- bottom (draining or sealed depending on the installation option chosen).
Even similar elements of this design can vary greatly in size and shape. Here a lot depends on the material of manufacture and design features treatment plant, as well as tank volume.
What can a sewer well be built from?
A well structure can be made from a variety of building materials.
When choosing optimal option must be taken into account:
- Climatic conditions of the area (maximum possible and average temperatures, total amounts of rainwater and snow).
- Soil characteristics (freezing depth, composition and groundwater level).
- Features of the site's relief.
If the soils are very heaving, then the sewer well should be made of the most durable building materials. And for wet soils you will have to select the most moisture-resistant option.
The cheapest and fastest to install is a structure made of reinforced concrete rings, but to install them in a dug pit you will need to order a crane
You can easily make a sewer well with your own hands from:
- brick and stone;
- monolithic concrete;
- reinforced concrete rings;
- ready-made plastic structures
- old car tires.
Cheapest at self-installation Either a septic tank assembled from factory-made or home-made concrete rings will cost.
But in the first case you will have to tinker with the masonry, and in the second you will need lifting equipment. It is not recommended to lower heavy concrete products into the pit manually; if they fall off or receive a strong impact, they may collapse.
From brick it will be possible to make only a sewer well with drainage, ensuring complete tightness brick walls extremely difficult and expensive
The concrete monolithic option will require arrangement of formwork and preparation of mortar. If the latter is ordered already mixed in a concrete mixer, this will lead to a serious increase in the cost of work.
Structures made of plastic (polyethylene or PVC), fiberglass and polymer sand are quite expensive. But they are durable and extremely easy to install yourself. Such products weigh little, a couple of people are enough to install them.
Used tires will make a very cheap sewer well. They cost pennies at a tire shop, but you can collect tires at a landfill for free. But here the problem is the same as in the case of brick.
It is extremely problematic to make such a structure airtight, and it is almost impossible to repair it. You can make them out of them, but you can’t create a storage device.
Image gallery
You will learn everything about choosing a container for installing a storage sewer well for independent sewerage from.
Selecting the location and volume of the tank
When installing a sewer well, a number of sanitary and construction requirements. Failure to do this increases the risk of biological contamination. The situation can lead to an outbreak of infections, which threatens the owner of the cottage with serious problems.
The installation of a sewer well should be done away from:
- fruit-bearing trees and beds 3 m;
- foundations of buildings on personal plot at 4–5 m;
- roads and underground engineering communications(gas, water, electricity) 5 m;
- wells for drinking water and reservoirs 30 m.
A slight deviation from these figures is possible only when installing a sealed storage tank or when constructing a cesspool with thick concrete walls with reliable external waterproofing.
In the case of an absorption well, water that has passed through a multi-layer filter of sand and gravel must enter the underlying layers of soil away from buildings, communications, drinking wells, all types of reservoirs and private pools.
Distances should be maintained so as not to change the composition groundwater for the worse, do not pollute water bodies with insufficient cleaning and do not wash out the underlying base from under building structures and engineering networks.
However, if the well structure for sewage drains is removed too far from the house, then the pipeline between them will have to be installed every 10–15 meters, which will lead to additional considerable expenses. But this will have to be done, otherwise if the pipe is clogged, you will have to open up the soil in order to simply clean it.
The main thing during installation is to align the rings exactly on top of each other without displacement. Otherwise, gaps will form in the walls, which will no longer be able to be sealed hermetically. The cesspool hole can be dug to its full depth at once and then the rings can be lowered into it.
A possible option is to first install one of concrete products and the production of gradual digging under it, with being inside the resulting mine.
The depth of the sewer well is determined by the number of reinforced concrete rings and additional neck elements having standardized dimensions from 0.7 to 2 meters
When installing an absorption well, gravel is poured inside in a layer of about half a meter to form a drainage layer. crushed granite. You can use limestone (dolomite), but it will last no more than 20 years and can lead to soil salinization. The crushed stone should be of medium size, several centimeters. Smaller fractions are simply compressed, ceasing to drain water.
Option #2: tire drain pit
Car tires made of rubber are not subject to corrosion, do not crack in the cold and do not break when soil heaves. They make an excellent cesspool. But before you think seriously.
A cesspool made from old tires is cheap and easy to install, but leaky and completely unsuitable for repair.
If even one of the tires leaks, the entire well structure will have to be dug up and rebuilt. It cannot be replaced or repaired in any way.
Plus, it is impossible to ensure the tightness of the seams between the tires. Can be used various sealants, but because thermal expansion the rubber will still “breathe” slightly throughout the year, destroying the sealing layer.
A similar well design is suitable as a sewer for small house for one or two people or cottages with irregular visits. But if you need to purify wastewater produced by a larger family, then it is worth choosing a structure that is more productive and has a larger volume.
Option #3: plastic construction
Easiest to install plastic containers factory made. Their price is higher than their reinforced concrete counterpart. But how much time and effort can be saved by installing such a sewer well with your own hands? Due to the low weight of the structure, a crane is not required; two people can lower it into the pit.
Entering pipes into plastic well carried out through holes already cut at the factory using rubber cuffs, installation is quick and easy
Plastic sewer wells are available in various sizes and heights. You can always find an option for the required volume. It is better to choose a body with stiffening ribs and reliable fastenings for a concrete “anchor” under it.
If you do not securely fasten it to the bottom of the pit on concrete base, then during heaving and floods it can be squeezed out of the ground. The lightness of the design makes installation easier, but leads to problems with “floating up”.
If a sealed version is installed, then there are zero problems. All you need to do is pour a 15–20 cm thick concrete slab at the bottom of the pit, placing iron hooks in the solution to secure the body.
But when installing a well with drainage in place of the bottom, you will have to tinker. It will be necessary to make a reliable heavy foundation that would not block the access of drained water to the ground. You will have to install an additional concrete ring down or pour something similar with your own hands.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
Video #1. How to make a tire cesspool yourself:
Video #2. Stages of constructing a sewer well from concrete rings:
Video #3. How to properly fasten concrete well rings:
You can make a sewer well yourself from various building materials with a minimum of effort and money spent. There are no difficulties here, the main thing is to correctly design the entire sewerage system and correctly select a place on the site for its external component.
From above, the waste tank can be disguised with a removable flowerbed or an artificial boulder.
Tell us how you installed a sewer well on your own summer cottage. Please write comments in the block below. Share your impressions, step by step photos construction process, ask questions.