Fastening drywall to a wooden frame. How to attach drywall to a wooden wall without profiles using self-tapping screws? Timber frame for plasterboard partition

Fastening drywall to timber is one of two ways to finish a room on a frame, although it is less common. is associated with many nuances that are absent when using. Still, the use of wood is possible and does not even lose its relevance, especially when. Is it possible to attach plasterboard sheets to wooden beams, and what should you know and take into account when working with such material?
The process of attaching drywall to wooden beams

You can assemble a timber frame for plasterboard in any residential or non-residential premises.

living rooms with wooden walls;
utility rooms of the home made of wood;
at the dachas;
outbuildings (sheds, garages, etc.);
V residential buildings and apartments;
on balconies and apartment buildings.
Ready-made wooden frame for installing drywall in the loggia
However, when used in unheated utility rooms required good waterproofing, and the timber itself must be dried and treated with at least a paint coating.
It is best to use modern protective impregnations for wood, or drying oil, but the latter option is practically not produced today.

Why use a frame made of timber if it can easily be replaced by a metal profile, and is it possible to do this?

Advantages and disadvantages of wooden frames
What advantages does a wooden frame have over its now classic metal profile analogues:
But, ideal material does not exist, timber also has its drawbacks. This is a shorter service life in comparison with metal analogues, flammability, and the possibility of damage by insects and rodents.

Mounted wooden frame under plasterboard sheets
However, the main disadvantages of wooden battens include low resistance to moisture and the inability to assemble a non-standard curved frame.
However, gypsum plasterboards can be mounted on timber, but following the technology and carefully selecting the material.

Choosing timber for sheathing
If you decide to collect, then you need to approach the choice of material very carefully.
The list is as follows:

After purchasing the material, all slats need to be inspected again and treated with protective impregnations or at least painted. This will protect the forest from moisture penetration.
It is important to remember that timber and slats must be stored in a horizontal position, otherwise, after a while vertical storage you will get curved racks.

What do you need for work?
List of required tools for assembly wooden frame differs from equipment for working with metal profiles.
Required Tools:
It is necessary to purchase and Additional materials: , .
Mounting corners are sized according to the cross-section of the beam; if it has sides of 50×50, then the hardware is preferably the same. This will ensure reliable fastening.

Different kinds mounting angles

How to assemble a frame and attach drywall
Assembly work begins with marking and fastening the timber, which will serve as guide profiles. collected according to the following algorithm:
- If the room has a wooden ceiling, then you can simply assemble a sheathing on the ceiling by attaching slats across load-bearing beams;
- Lines are drawn on the floor and ceiling where the guides will be laid, the optimal distance from the wall is chosen for leveling the surface and laying thermal insulation when (if it is planned);
- The guide beam is laid along the marks and holes for fasteners are drilled through it. At this stage, you will have to change the drills, having initially drilled holes in the wood, you will need to change them for the concrete of the floor and floor;
  Laying guides on the floor
- on the right and left along the walls they are installed along the rack with emphasis on the guides, they are also attached to the walls with dowels-nails. Additionally reinforced with mounting corners at the top and bottom;
- At a considerable distance from load-bearing wall Direct hangers are attached along the lines where the racks will be installed. Fixation of the fittings is also ensured with dowels-nails, or fastenings suitable for the wall material;
  Scheme of attaching a wooden frame to a log house
- Racks are mounted on the guides and connected to load-bearing beams corners and connected to hangers. Fastening accessories to wooden racks It is better to press with washers; their wide caps will securely fix all the elements. The number of racks is calculated at 3–4 pieces per 1 sheet of drywall;
  Scheme of fastening the racks to the beam
- In a checkerboard pattern, cross members need to be installed in the frame between the posts. Fastenings are provided with corners. The location is changed alternately at the top and bottom, alternating every 1–2 sheets;
- When laying insulation into a wooden frame, it must be covered with a steam barrier. The wiring is enclosed in corrugated plastic pipe and mounted with brackets on racks.
  Scheme for installing insulation inside a wooden frame
A similar technology is used to assemble a timber frame for the ceiling. At the same time they do continuous sheathing, without staggering the crossbars. The video talks about installing a wooden frame under drywall.

So popular finishing material, like gypsum plasterboard, in most cases it is attached to a special frame. Usually it is mounted from metal profiles. Alternative option- a lathing made of wooden beams, which is very easy to assemble with your own hands. But do not be deceived by the ease of manufacture: wood is a capricious material, its use is not always possible. Let's look at all the features of this design and find out when and how it can be done wooden sheathing under drywall yourself.

Features and disadvantages of wood lathing

The construction of a wooden frame under gypsum boards is attractive due to its low cost and ease of operation. Especially if during the renovation there are a small number of boards left that can be used as slats load-bearing structure. In this case, you will not have to spend money on purchasing metal profiles, as well as the necessary fasteners, for example.

But you should also remember about the properties of wood that limit its use in construction:

Wooden structures are subject to changes in geometric dimensions due to excess or insufficient moisture. The drywall attached to such a sheathing will move with it, resulting in cracks appearing at the joints of the sheets. This is a constant process, as wood releases moisture when the room is dry or absorbs when there is excess humidity.
Leveling walls using gypsum plasterboard is often combined with insulation. Ventilation of the wooden parts of the sheathing under these conditions is minimal, which leads to their rapid rotting.
The bars are not suitable for leveling walls. It is unacceptable to use wedges for lining: over time, the wood may bend under the influence of moisture and temperature, and weak areas will form in the areas of such linings.

It is not recommended to use a wooden frame when finishing plasterboard ceilings. This design does not have a sufficient safety margin; it is better to use a metal profile for this purpose.
It is unacceptable to use a wooden frame in rooms with high levels of humidity or temperature. Strictly speaking, lathing made of this material is only suitable for rooms with constant microclimate parameters.
If it is planned to place a gypsum board under the surface electric wires, then you need to use metal guides: wooden elements do not have a sufficient level of fire safety.

When can you make a frame for gypsum boards from wood?

It is recommended to use a wooden structure under plasterboard sheets:

In houses made of logs or timber. In this case, the lathing is ideally combined with the wall material due to the same physical properties. It turns out that any change in humidity is compensated. In such conditions, the drywall remains motionless and is not damaged.
IN ordinary apartments with perfect smooth walls. In this case, the frame made of timber will be a reliable basis for fastening the gypsum board.

Advantages

Advantages of wooden sheathing:

Simple installation that can easily be done by hand.
Available and cheap materials, more environmentally friendly than metal profiles.
Subject to all necessary conditions properly installed sheathing will last a long time and will reliable basis for plasterboard sheets.

Tools and materials

First of all, you will need a wooden beam itself with a cross-section of at least 40 × 40 mm. If you plan to carry out insulation and sound insulation, then the timber must be chosen thicker, for example 40 × 80 mm. To prevent rotting, it is impregnated with antiseptic and water-repellent solutions. It would be useful to treat it with a composition that improves the fire safety of the material.

Before installation, all wooden elements must be left in the room for several days in order to adapt to its microclimate and take on their final geometric shape.

You will also need:

Measuring tools: level, plumb line, tape measure.
Pencil, coated cord.
and dowels for attaching the timber to the wall.
A screwdriver and self-tapping screws, as well as corners for connecting frame elements to each other.
Hacksaw, hammer and construction knife.

As you can see, almost the entire tool can be found in the arsenal of even a novice master. To install a wooden frame and fasten drywall, you do not have to purchase specialized expensive equipment.

Installation of sheathing

Preparatory work consists of removing the old coating if there is doubt about its strength. Things in the room can be covered plastic film or other material.

The procedure for constructing a wooden frame:

First you need to make the markings. The size of the plasterboard determines optimal step between vertical posts – 600 mm. Thus, each sheet will be attached to three bars: one in the center, and two at the edges. The joints should be located on the surface of the rack, as shown in the photo.

A horizontal beam is attached to the ceiling. Using a plumb line, the location of the slats on the floor is determined. They must be located strictly in the same plane.

In the case of a perfectly flat floor, horizontal beams can be attached directly to the wall. Here, the equal thickness of all sheathing elements is of paramount importance: any error in size will result in irregularities in the frame.

They are attached to the beams on the ceiling and floor strictly according to level. vertical racks. They are mounted to the wall using dowel-nails, for which holes are pre-drilled in the slats and in the wall for fasteners.

In houses with wooden walls, you can install the racks to the base using wood screws. But you still need to drill holes: this eliminates the possibility that the timber will crack.

The heads of the screws are recessed 1 mm deep into the sheet.

In the future, as well as deepening the screw heads.

After sanding, the surface is primed and ready for further finishing.

A wooden ceiling can be perfectly covered with plasterboard. This decoration is not only very beautiful. The technology used to attach plasterboard to a wooden ceiling or to the ceiling on metal profiles allows you to create multi-level ceilings, which will be decorated with various borders or other relief elements.

In addition, such a ceiling can be easily puttied, lighting can be built into it, and stylish stucco molding can be glued to its surface. It is also important that such a ceiling will breathe well and the natural microclimate will not be disturbed. Drywall is a modern environmentally pure material, allowing you to create miracles with the interior of your home.

Methods for attaching drywall to a wooden ceiling

Installation of plasterboard is most relevant when there is a need for very uneven ceiling, especially in those rooms in which the height is three meters or more.

Today, there are several ways to attach drywall to a wooden ceiling.

Namely:

For adhesive materials (special adhesives for drywall);
On wooden slats-profiles;
To metal.

In very rare cases, drywall is attached to an adhesive material directly to the ceiling itself. This is only possible if the ceiling is perfectly flat. Besides this method is not practical, since there is a high probability that gypsum boards (plasterboard sheets) will sag or fall off altogether.

That's why special attention We will not focus on this method in this article.

The most commonly used options are those using a specially prepared frame. And then we will consider in detail how to attach drywall to the ceiling and the technology for manufacturing these frames.

Frame made of wooden slats

Such a frame allows you to hide all sorts of imperfections in the ceiling, without greatly sacrificing the height of the room. Drywall on wooden slats is more preferable if you need to install a simple single-level ceiling. This is a cheaper way than using metal frame.

However, only high-quality, perfectly chamber-dried bars and slats are suitable for the frame, which will not subsequently deform and will be able to withstand a decent load for many years.

Before you start installation work, you need to visually determine the lowest point of the ceiling. It is from this that we mark the design position of the frame: we retreat 5 cm, and using a level we draw a level horizontal line around the entire perimeter of the room. If you do this work correctly, your end point will coincide with the start point.
Next, along this horizontal line along the entire perimeter, we secure the rail with self-tapping screws.

Please note: how correctly you calculate and design the frame will determine the success of all subsequent work!

Next, we attach the base bars to the ceiling surface with such a step that will ensure reliable fastening of the hemmed system. The recommended distance between the base bars located in parallel should not be more than 0.8 m.
In a perpendicular direction we attach load-bearing strips to them, which will be the basis on which drywall can later be hemmed. In the event that you have small area ceiling, a single-base frame in which the targeted wooden blocks to the ceiling will simultaneously serve as carriers for securing the gypsum boards. Of course, the step of fastening the bars in such a frame will decrease and will be about 0.5 m.

Installation of wooden frame and drywall

We fasten the bars to the ceiling with self-tapping screws on dowels with a fastening pitch of 0.8 m. In the case of two-layer sheathing, we reduce the step, because the weight of the binder will double. The attachment points of adjacent beams should not be on the same straight line. They need to be alternated in a checkerboard pattern.
Installation of drywall on wooden ceiling It is made with a step of fastening the sheet to the frame of 0.15 m in the case of a single-layer filing. The fastening step for the first layer can be 0.5 m when filing in two layers. When fastening the second layer to be hemmed, the pitch of the screws will be 0.15 m.

Note!
The length of the screws is 25 – 35 mm. This screw size is perfect for 12.5mm drywall thickness.
If the thickness of the sheets is different, you need to select fasteners based on the depth of insertion into the material.

Attaching beams to the ceiling

The base bars can be attached to a wooden ceiling using straight metal hangers (brackets) or adjustable metal ones with wire hangers. Thanks to the use of direct hangers, it is possible to increase the distance between the gypsum board and the ceiling surface.

We attach the brackets to the beam on both sides with self-tapping screws. We target the brackets themselves to load-bearing ceiling and bend it along the width of the bar at a right angle. If you need to increase the distance between the ceiling and the gypsum board, there is the D111 system ( suspended ceiling on a wooden frame).

Plasterboard on a wooden ceiling on a wooden frame allows the use of wire hangers. Frame elements on hangers are held with special clamps, which allow for quick installation and necessary adjustment height.

Metal carcass

How to attach drywall to a metal frame (see also)? It's actually not that difficult if you have detailed instructions. The metal profile is more reliable and durable material to create a frame for gypsum boards, rather than wood.

Before installing the frame, you need to decide to what height the plasterboard ceiling will be lowered. Between the plasterboard and the ceiling you can install not only lamps, but also various communications (ventilation, water supply and electrical wiring).

You will need 2 people to install the frame and support the sheets. One sheet of drywall weighs about 15 kg.

What does the frame consist of?

The metal frame consists of guide profiles. They hold the main frame of the entire structure and rack profiles are attached to them, onto which drywall is mounted. Cross section profiles are U-shaped. And the rack profiles look like the letter “C”.

The length of the profiles is always three meters. If you need to increase the length of the profiles, use butt joints, which are inserted inside and secured with self-tapping screws. With the help of hangers, you can correct and level the plane of even the most crooked ceiling and give relative rigidity to the frame structure.

In any hardware store you can find very convenient straight hangers that you can use in your work. Other types of suspensions are quite difficult to adjust, and they are also quite unreliable due to defects in manufacturing.

Rack profiles can be fastened perpendicularly using cross-shaped joints, which are also called crabs. If you are planning to install a ceiling in small room, then this will not take much effort and time from you, but it is still better to find yourself an assistant.

Frame installation

To install the frame and gypsum board you will need the following tools:

gun for hammering dowels;
knife for cutting drywall sheets;
felt-tip pen;
level (2-3 meters);
drill;
hammer;
screwdriver;
self-tapping screws for drywall, metal and dowels;
metal profiles;
plasterboard panels.

First you need to determine where the lowest corner is in your room, and then measure from there the distance you need to lower the frame. After this, draw a horizontal line along the entire perimeter with a level and a pencil and clearly follow it when attaching the guide profiles.

These profiles, depending on the type of surface, are secured either with dowels or self-tapping screws in increments of 20-30 cm - the main thing is that it is firmly and securely attached to the wall.

After that we move on to installation rack profiles. If the width of your room is approximately 2.5 meters, then a metal frame that is sufficiently rigid will be sufficient. The assembly of such a frame is very simple.

You just need to attach the rack profiles to the wall and fasten them. They need to be fixed at a distance of 0.4 meters, using drawn lines located on the side walls.

Next, use metal scissors to cut the rack profiles along the length of the room and insert them into the guides, and then fasten the resulting structure with self-tapping screws. To give it rigidity, you need to use special hangers.

They need to be fixed to the ceiling with dowels-nails in increments of 60-80 centimeters, and then improve the strength with the help of self-tapping screws. If you do not use hangers, the frame will ultimately not be securely fastened, and after puttying and painting, all joints will crack.

If you are installing a chandelier or lampshade, then it is necessary to install mortgages, since plasterboard sheets will not be able to support the weight of your lamp. Attach several rack profiles to the frame for the future location of the lighting fixture.

After you have installed the frame, you can begin installing the gypsum board. For this you will need: stationery knife and a felt-tip pen. We mark on a sheet of drywall according to the size of the room and cut it off.

Then we attach the gypsum plasterboard to the ceiling using self-tapping screws in increments of 25 cm. It is easier to screw them in with a special screwdriver.

Recess the heads of the mounting screws slightly into the drywall panel. Next stage– gluing sickle mesh to the joints (to avoid cracks), then primer and putty.

To level or redevelop living space, partitions made of gypsum plasterboard or plasterboard are used. GCRs benefit from brick and block partitions in that they are lightweight, the installation of such structures is quick and simple, and after completion of the work there is little dirt and dust left. GKL and GVL are economical, have good heat and sound insulation.

In addition to standard gypsum plasterboard, there are the following types of material:

moisture resistant;
fire resistant;

Moisture-resistant is used in places with high humidity, while fire-resistant is used for other rooms (kitchen, office premises).

GKL is excellent for finishing living rooms, because it is environmentally friendly and, when heated, does not emit poisons. Regulates the microclimate of the room naturally.

Moisture-resistant drywall

GVL is used for durable structures. This gypsum fiber sheets, which are stronger than drywall. GVL is made from building gypsum with additives. GVL – environmentally friendly material for dry construction, it does not have a cardboard shell like drywall. But there are the following disadvantages of using GVL:

GVL is heavier than gypsum plasterboard;
costs more.

Characteristics of a wooden frame

GCR fastening to a wooden frame is often used.

A wooden frame is cheaper than a metal frame and is made from wooden planks and bars, wood is usually used coniferous species. Bars with a cross-section of 40*40 centimeters are used at the junction of two layers or where massive objects (mirror or cabinet) will be located on the wall.

Material requirements:

Wood moisture content ranges from 12 to 18%;
Fire treatment must comply with the first fire safety group;
The wall thickness should not exceed 132 mm.

Before use, wooden slats are processed protective equipment from fire and pests, are examined for the presence of knots and irregularities.

Attaching the base

Screwing parts of drywall onto wooden slats should be carried out in residential and dry buildings. The frame is assembled in accordance with the vertical and horizontal levels, otherwise the structure will come out skewed.

Tools for creating a design:

hammer;
perforator;
nails;
building level;
self-tapping screws;
mounting dowels;
metal corners.

If the design needs additional insulation, then this is done during assembly.

Base fastening technology

Stages of work:

First, mark the partition on the ceiling using a level, then attach the wooden frame;
Fasten strapping bars starting from the ceiling. Then comes the floor, and after that comes the walls. It will be easier to work if all the coverings in the building are made of wood (liquid nails or self-tapping screws will do). If the house is made of brick and concrete, then fastening is done with dowels and anchors to the ceiling;
Having secured the bars to the ceiling, mark them on the floor (at least three marks) and continue fastening the frame.
After checking the correspondence of the fastenings relative to the ceiling and floor, they begin to mount the base. To do this, it is enough to connect the floor and ceiling guides with vertical bars. The distance between them is maintained at least 40-50 centimeters. It is very important to install these beams well, since the main load will fall on them.
After installing the verticals, the racks are secured to the corners with self-tapping screws on both sides with 3-4 holes.

Mounting gypsum boards on the base

Sheathing begins from solid sheets or the largest pieces. They are fastened with self-tapping screws to the beams every 25-30 centimeters.

Facing

When sheathing with material on only one side, insulation is laid and electrical wiring is pulled before installing the top layer.

During installation of the other side, insulation is laid as necessary. It is better to do without pulling cables; if they are still needed, they are placed in a special protective tube.

If the partition has a doorway, increase the number of posts and horizontal lintels.

Tips for beginners:

When installing the second side of the wall, move the sheet one step so that the structure is strong;
To avoid problems during fastening, make sure that the gypsum board joints fall exactly in the middle of the vertical posts.

Isolation

Sometimes it is impossible to do without additionally insulating the structure, especially if it is not just a decorative part of the interior. There is nothing complicated about this, just lay and secure the material.

Structural insulation

Suitable for this mineral wool, expanded polystyrene or polystyrene. The rigid material is already attached to the inside of the lined partition.

Each material has both disadvantages and advantages, it all depends on what the room in which they are used is intended for.

Read also: Arrangement of an apartment building.

Working with uneven surfaces

If suddenly the base is uneven, you should identify the unevenness using a beam. For this:

Lay the timber along the wall and draw a line from the outer edge;
Vertically lean the rack-mounted timber beam, mark at regular intervals the location of the end behind its exit on the floor.

It is important to install the frame evenly so that the entire structure comes out even.

If you have difficulties with plasterboard sheathing, this video will help:

Advantages of using gypsum plasterboard

This material has a number of advantages compared to other raw materials:

low cost and assembly costs;
little weight;
quick installation;
better sound and heat insulation;
Can be used even in freezing rooms;
leveling walls;
installation of drywall does not require additional training basics;
After installation, little debris and dust remains.

If everything is done correctly, in quality finishing touch all that remains is to execute decorative finishing walls. And plasterboard structures will last a long time and save a lot of time and money.

In contact with

To work with plasterboard sheets, you often need to make a frame. It is mainly made from, but sometimes you can use environmentally friendly material - wood. Drywall is mounted on a wooden frame if there is 100% confidence that the wood will not be deformed by moisture and the wooden blocks will be treated against pests.

For installation of drywall, a frame made of wood and metal profiles is used.

Wood tends to change its size due to sudden changes in temperature, when high humidity air. When covering the frame with plasterboard, when it finishing, the wooden frame will breathe air that penetrates into the section between the wall and the drywall. Therefore, first of all, a wooden frame under plasterboard is mounted in a room where the walls are dry and there is no moisture. The use of wood saves space, this has always been an important point. Every person wants to leave room space.

Very often a wooden frame is installed in private wooden houses and in houses made of logs. At correct processing wood, it will last a long time.

There is a method of attaching drywall to a wooden ceiling (wall) without a frame. In this case, a number of facts should be taken into account:

Wood quality.
Room humidity.
Wood processing.

Wood “breathes”, so there is a high probability that drywall will deform or burst. Therefore, before attaching to wooden base ceiling, you should think carefully about this step.

For greater confidence in guaranteeing the wooden frame, the timber is treated with drying oil. In this case, it does not swell when exposed to moisture and does not shrink when exposed to dry and hot air.

In dry rooms it is possible to create a partition based on a wooden frame covered with plasterboard.

Necessary tools and materials for work

To work with wooden beams, you need tools and materials, without which it is impossible to make a wooden frame with your own hands:

An ordinary hammer.
A set of screwdrivers or a screwdriver.
Construction knife and set of blades.
Drill if the walls are made of concrete or brick.
Saw.
Meter or tape measure.
Ruler and pencil.
Laser level or regular.
Dowels, wood screws and regular screws.

Drying oil or other antiseptic solution for treating wood.
Primer, preferably with additives.
Insulation material – polystyrene foam, mineral wool.
Putty, reinforced tape.
Roller, brush.
Set of spatulas.

Selection and preparation of wood for the frame

In order to make a frame from a wooden beam with your own hands, you need to choose the type of wood. Not every tree is suitable for this design. The best option is a needle.

Surface preparation

When starting to install a frame made of wooden blocks, you should prepare the surface. For this you will need:

Cleaning the wall from old finish

Very important point is to prepare the surface and identify wet spots. The wall must be dry and level.

Marking

Markings are applied to the prepared dry wall and a drawing is made for the future structure:

you should measure the length and height of the wall on which the structure will be made;
using these numbers, the perimeter of the room is calculated (the length must be multiplied by the height);
all received numbers are transferred to a sheet of paper. First, horizontal and vertical lines are drawn on paper and on the wall along which the bars for the frame under the drywall will be laid;
The attachment points should be noted.

With the help of the drawing and markings applied, the frame will be smooth and rigid (without movements or vibrations).

Assembling a wooden frame

Before you start attaching wooden beams with your own hands, for the future frame you need to use plumb lines to tap out points on the ceiling and floor that will form a clearly horizontal surface. Now:

Attaching drywall to the finished frame

The next step is to install the drywall on the wooden frame. Sheathing begins with whole sheets. The drywall is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. The fastening pitch is 30 cm.

The horizontal joints of the sheets should be staggered, that is, one sheet is flat, the second is cut by 20 cm and when attached it will be lower, the cut gypsum board should be attached at the very top. Open area should be sealed with drywall cut to size. edge plasterboard sheet should be exactly wooden beam.

Finishing

After the gypsum board sheathing step wooden structure, the next step is finishing the gypsum board. First you need to process and seal the seams. If a chamfer was not made when sheathing with plasterboard, then grooves about 0.5–0.8 mm deep should be cut with a construction knife at the joints of the sheets. These grooves should be cleaned extra cardboard and treat with primer. A brush is suitable for this type of work. The primer must be completely dry before sealing with reinforced tape and putty can begin.

Putty should be applied thin layer, covering not only the seam with the tape, but also the fastening points. After the putty has dried, using sandpaper All excess pebbles and stripes are removed. The sealed seams should be in the same plane with the entire surface (do not protrude).

After the putty has dried, the entire drywall surface should be treated with a primer mixture. This will improve the adhesion of the putty and prevent moisture from penetrating into the plasterboard.

After the surface has been puttyed and completely dry, the entire surface should be sanded using sandpaper.

Now plasterboard wall Based on a wooden frame, it is completely ready for further decoration.